r 


I*     £■    t     8&P««J- 


A   GENERAL 

VIEW  OF  THE  WORLD, 

COMPRISING    A 

PHYSICAL,  POLITICAL,  AND  STATISTICAL  ACCOUNT 

OF    ITS 

GRAND    DIVISIONS, 

AMERICA,  EUROPE,  ASIA,  AFRICA  AND  OCEANICA, 

WITH    THEIR 

EMPIRES,  KINGDOMS,  REPUBLICS,  PRINCIPALITIES,  &c: 

Exhibiting  the    History   of    Geographical    Science  and   the  Progress  of   Discovery  to    the 
present  time, 

A  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE 

CHIEF  MOUNTAINS,  RIVERS.  LAKES,  PLAINS.  &c,  OF  EVERY  SECTION; 

The  principal  Beasts,  Birds,  Fishos  and  Reptiles ;    Agricultural  and  Mineral   Productions ; 
Commerce.  Manufactures,  Education,  Government,  Arts,  Science,  and  Literature ; 

An  account  of  the  Manners,  Customs,  and  Condition  of  the  Inhabitants  of  each  Country ; 
together  with  a  description  of  the  Chief  Cities  and  Towns. 

ILLUSTRATED    BY 

UPWARDS  OF  NINE  HUNDRED  ENGRAVINGS 

Of  the  Principal  Vegetable  Productions,  Animals,  Noted  Edifices,  Curiosities,  and  Races  of 
Men,  in  every  region  of  the  Globe. 

The  whole  concluded  by  a  general  Statistical  Survey  of  the  various  Nations  in  the  World : 
embracing  the  Population  of  the  United  States,  according  to  the  Census  of  1840. 


BY   S.    AUGUSTUS   MITCHELL. 

PUBLISHED   BY 

DAVID    M.    JEWETT. 

1842. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1841,  by 

S.    AUGUSTUS    MITCHELL, 

In  the  clerk's  office  of  the  district  court  of  the  eastern  district 
of  Pennsylvania. 


PRINTED  BY  JAMES  KAY,  JUN.  AND  BROTHER. 
(3) 


PREFACE. 


The  primary  design  of  the  present  work  being  the  extension 
of  useful  knowledge,  no  labour  has  been  spared  to  compress 
within  its  limits  every  authentic  and  interesting  fact  that  has  a 
bearing  upon  the  subject.  The  most  modern  sources  of  inform- 
ation have  been  resorted  to,  and  the  work  has  been  prepared 
with  special  reference  to  the  actual  condition  of  the  various 
divisions  of  the  world  at  the  present  time. 

It  is  perhaps  hardly  necessary  to  make  any  remarks  on  the 
value  and  interest  of  a  work  like  the  present.  The  importance 
and  utility  of  becoming  acquainted  with  the  geography  of  the 
various  parts  of  the  earth,  but  especially  of  our  own  country, 
must  be  sufficiently  obvious  to  the  understanding  of  every  indi- 
vidual. It  is  a  species  of  knowledge  connected  with  nearly 
all  branches  of  science,  and  becomes  an  object  of  practical 
necessity  to  almost  every  profession  in  a  civilized  community. 
The  want  of  it  is  ignorance,  and  even  a  partial  acquaintance 
with  it  can  hardly  fail  to  be  of  service  in  any  sphere  of  life. 

Works  upon  this  subject  have,  from  a  very  early  period,  at- 
tracted much  attention,  and  the  ancient  geographical  descrip- 
tions rank  among  the  most  valuable  productions  of  the  classic 
ages.  In  modern  times,  and  especially  at  the  present  day,  geo- 
graphy has  assumed  a  much  more  important  place,  among 
the  various  departments  of  knowledge,  than  at  any  former 
period. 

The  science  of  Geography  embraces,  in  its  description,  the 
wide-spread  surface  of  the  earth,  in  all  its  diversities  of  form 
and  appearance.  It  ascertains  the  bounds  and  extent  of  oceans, 
the  dimensions  of  continents,  the  positions  of  islands,  the  course 
of  rivers,  the  elevations  of  mountains,  and  the  characteristic 
features  of  valleys,  plains  and  deserts.  It  includes  a  knowledge 
of  the  peculiarities  of  the  soil  and  climate,  together  with  the 
mineral,  animal  and  vegetable  productions  of  every  known  re- 
gion. It  treats,  also,  of  the  manners  and  customs,  the  moral 
habits  and  qualities,  the  social  combinations,  and  the  institutions 
of  the  various  communities  and  races  of  men. 

(3) 


iv  PREFACE. 

The  work  commences  with  an  introduction,  containing  a  con- 
densed historical  sketch  of  the  progress  of  geographical  science, 
and  of  maritime  and  terrestrial  discovery,  to  the  present  time, 
together  with  an  account  of  the  form,  magnitude,  motions  and 
structure  of  the  earth.  To  these  succeed  a  description  of  the 
various  grand  divisions  of  the  globe,  in  the  order  named  in  the 
title.  Besides  such  detailed  notice  of  our  own  vast  republic, 
and  the  various  European  states,  as  the  limits  of  the  work  per- 
mit, the  political  condition  and  recent  changes  in  different  coun- 
tries, have  been  particularly  noted  —  those  of  Texas,  Mexico, 
Guatimala,  the  various  South  American  territories,  with  Greece, 
Turkey,  Syria,  Egypt,  India,  and  the  adjacent  regions,  are  all 
described  with  reference  to  their  actual  condition. 

The  chief  divisions  of  the  British  Oriental  Empire  are  exhi- 
bited somewhat  in  detail,  and,  it  is  hoped,  more  clearly  and  dis- 
tinctly than  in  any  former  treatise  of  the  same  extent,  so  that 
they  may  be  readily  understood,  even  by  juvenile  readers.  This 
portion  of  Asia  has  been  generally  described  so  much  in  mass, 
and  for  the  most  part  so  obscurely,  that  the  usual  delineations 
of  its  territories  have  formed,  like  those  of  the  German  States, 
almost  a  geographical  labyrinth. 

The  new  Anglo-Saxon  domain,  whose  foundations  are  so 
widely  spread  over  the  Pacific  Ocean,  comprising  the  various 
divisions  of  Australia,  Tasmania,  New  Zealand,  &c,  have  re- 
ceived a  proportional  share  of  attention.  These  remote  regions, 
the  scenes  of  some  of  the  most  striking  moral  events  of  the  pre- 
sent age,  have  become  of  superior  interest  to  all  civilized  nations, 
and  especially  to  those  whose  language,  habits,  and  feelings  are 
kindred  and  congenial. 

The  engravings,  about  eight  hundred  in  number,  attached 
to  this  work,  represent  the  most  remarkable  plants,  vegetable 
productions,  and  animals,  the  chief  cities  and  towns,  noted  pub- 
lic buildings,  natural  curiosities,  and  picturesque  scenery,  with 
the  characteristic  figures  and  costumes  of  the  inhabitants  of 
many  of  the  countries  described.  These  embellishments,  at  the 
same  time  that  they  illustrate  and  ornament  the  work,  will,  with 
the  explanations  appended  to  most  of  them,  be  found  interest- 
ing and  useful — conveying  an  infinitely  better  idea  of  the  ob- 
jects represented,  than  could  be  obtained  from  any  description, 
however  minute  and  detailed. 


CONTENTS. 


Page 

Introduction " 

The  World 21 

AMERICA   23 

North  America    25 

Russian  America 34 

Greenland 35 

British  America 36 

New  Britain 40 

Upper  Canada    43 

Lower  Canada    45 

New  Brunswick    46 

Nova  Scotia,  &c 47 

Prince  Edward's  Island 49 

Newfoundland   50 

United  States   51 

New  England    65 

Maine   66 

New  Hampshire    68 

Vermont 71 

Massachusetts    74 

Rhode  Island   79 

Connecticut    82 

Middle  States 85 

New  York   86 

New  Jersey    95 

Pennsylvania   98 

Delaware    106 

Southern  States    108 

Maryland   109 

District  of  Columbia 113 

Virginia    115 

North  Carolina 120 

South  Carolina 123 

Georgia 126 

Florida   129 

Alabama 131 

Mississippi 134 

Louisiana   136 

Western  States  and  Territories    140 

Ohio    142 

Kentucky   147 

Tennessee 150 

Michigan    152 

Indiana 156 

Illinois    158 

Missouri   161 

Arkansas    163 

Wisconsin  Territory   165 

Iowa  Territory    167 

1* 


Page 

Indian  Territory  168 

Missouri  Territory    171 

Oregon  Territory 172 

Texas    175 

Mexico 177 

Balize  Settlement 188 

Guatimala 189 

West  Indies 192 

Spanish  Islands   194 

British  Islands 196 

French  Islands    •  •  •  •  200 

Dutch,  Swedish,   and   Danish  )  2qq 

Islands    S 

Hayti    201 

South  America 203 

Colombia    211 

New  Grenada 214 

Venezuela 217 

Ecuador    219 

Guiana   221 

Essequibo,  Demerara,  and  Ber-  )  ^22 

bice S 

Surinam    222 

Cayenne    22~ 

Peru    223 

Peru-Bolivian  Confederation    . .  226 

North  Peru    227 

South  Peru 229 

Bolivia    230 

Chili   233 

Brazil   237 

Buenos  Ayres    243 

Paraguay   247 

Uruguay 24.* 

Patagonia 250 

South  American  Islands 250 

EUROPE 252 

Sweden  and  Norway 259 

Norway 261 

Sweden 263 

Lapland    265 

Russian  Empire •  •  •  •  267 

Russia  in  Europe    271 

Poland    274 

The  Republic  of  Cracow    279 

Denmark    270 

Iceland    281 

The  Netherlands   283 

Holland 283 

(5) 


VI 


CONTENTS. 


Belgium   

Great  Britain  and  Ireland 

England   

Wales   

Scotland    

Ireland   

France    

Spain    

Republic  of  Andorra 

Portugal  

Germany    

Austria 

Prussia   

Bavaria 

Saxony   

Hanover  

Wirtemberg 

Baden   

Hessian  States 

Hesse  Cassel    

Hesse  Darmstadt 

Hesse  Homburg 

Saxon  States 

Saxe  Weimar 

Saxe  Coburg  Gotha 

Saxe  Meiningen  Hildburghausen 

Saxe  Altenburg   

Mecklenburg 

Mecklenburg  Schwerin 

Mecklenburg  Strelitz    

Brunswick   

Oldenburg    

Nassau   

Anhalt 

The  German  Principalities  .... 

Schwartzburg 

Reuss 

Lippe  

Hohenzollern    

Waldeck 

Lichtenstein 

Kniphausen   

The  Free  Cities  of  Germany  . . 

Hamburg 

Lubec    

Bremen 

Frankfort. 

The  German  Territories  of 
Denmark,  Belgium,  Prussia 
and  Austria   

Switzerland    

Italy    

Sardinia , 

Monaca 


ii 


Page 
286 
289 
292 
300 
302 
307 
311 
318 
323 
324 
327 
332 
337 
340 
342 
343 
344 
345 
346 
346 
346 
347 
347 
347 
348 
348 
348 
348 
348 
349 
349 
349 
349 
349 
350 
350 
350 
350 
350 
350 
350 
350 
351 
351 
351 
351 
352 

352 

353 
356 
360 
363 


Page 

Austrian  Italy  363 

Tuscany  365 

Parma 367 

Modena 367 

Lucca  368 

States  of  the  Church 368 

San  Marino    371 

Naples    371 

Ionian  Republic 373 

Malta    374 

Greece 375 

Turkish  Empire    380 

Turkey  in  Europe 383 

ASIA   387 

Asiatic  Russia  396 

Siberia    596 

Caspian  and  Caucasian  Russia  .  400 

Caspian  Russia    400 

Caucasian  Russia    402 

Circassia 403 

Daghestan    404 

Georgia 404 

Imeritia    405 

Turkey  in  Asia  405 

Syria 411 

Palestine 415 

Arabia 420 

Mecca 425 

Yemen  or  Sana  425 

Muscat 426 

Territory  of  the  Wahabees    . . .  427 

Hadramaut 427 

Lahsa   427 

Idumea 428 

Persia  429 

Afghanistan 434 

Cabul    436 

Herat    438 

Beloochistan 439 

Kaffcristan 440 

Tartary 441 

Independent  Tartary 445 

Great  Bucharia    445 

Khokan 446 

Khiva  447 

Koondooz  448 

Kirguis  Country   448 

Turcomania   449 

Chinese  Tartary    449 

Little  Bucharia    450 

Soongaria 451 

Mongolia    451 

Mantchooria 452 


CONTENTS. 


Vll 


India 453 

Hindoostan 454 

British  India    463 

Bengal 465 

Madras 467 

Bombay    468 

Tributary  or  Vassal  States 470 

Hydrabad   470 

Oude  470 

Nagpore   470 

Mysore 471 

Satara   471 

Indore   471 

Travancore  and  Cochin    471 

Allied  or  Protected  States    472 

Baroda    472 

Rajpootana 472 

Cutch    473 

Independent  States   473 

Lahore    473 

Nepaul    474 

Bootan    474 

Dominions  of  Scindiah 475 

Sinde 475 

European  Colonies 476 

The  Portuguese 476 

The  French   476 

The  Danish    '. 476 

Ceylon 476 

Coralline  Islands   477 

The  Laccadives 477 

The  Maldives 477 

Chin  India  477 

Birmah 480 

Anam    482 

Siam   485 

British  Territories 486 

British  Birmah 486 

British  Malacca 487 

Pulo  Pinang 488 

Malacca    488 

Nicobar  and  Andaman  Isles    .  .  489 

Chinese  Empire 489 

China 490 

Corea 499 

Thibet 500 

Little  Thibet    502 

Japan    503 

AFRICA    507 

Barbary 515 

Morocco  518 

Algiers  or  Algeria 521 

Tunis   522 


Page 

Tripoli   524 

Barca    525 

Beled  el  Jerid    526 

Great  Desert    527 

Fezzan 528 

Tibesty 528 

Tibboos  and  Tuaricks 529 

Region  of  the  Nile   530 

Egypt   531 

Nubia  538 

Darfur 540 

Bergoo  or  Waday    540 

Kordofan 540 

Fertit  Donga,  &c 540 

Abyssinia 541 

Western  Africa   544 

Senegambia    546 

The  Foulahs 546 

Foota  Jallon 547 

Foota  Toro     547 

The  Jaloffs 547 

The  Mandingoes  547 

Bambouk    548 

Soolimana 548 

Senegal 548 

Gambia 548 

Sierra  Leone 549 

Guinea    549 

Upper  Guinea 550 

Liberia    550 

The  Grain  Coast 551 

The  Ivory,  Gold  and  Slave  Coasts  552 

Ashantee 552 

Dahomey    553 

Benin    553 

Waree   553 

Lower  Guinea   554 

Loango  554 

Portuguese  Guinea   554 

Congo    555 

Angola  and  Benguela   555 

Matemba,  &c 555 

Moolooa 555 

Cimbebas  Country   556 

Southern  Africa 556 

Cape  Colony 558 

Caffraria    559 

Hottentots    560 

Boshuanas    561 

Eastern  Africa 562 

The  Country  of  the  Somaulies  .  563 

Adel    563 

Berbora 563 

Gingiro 563 


Vlll 


CONTENTS. 


Page 

Ajan 564 

Zanguebar    564 

Magadoxa • 564 

Melinda    564 

Mombas   565 

Quiloa • 565 

Portuguese  Possessions 565 

Sofala,  Sabia,  &c 566 

M onomotapa    566 

Cazembe 566 

Central  Africa   566 

Kaarta,  Manding,  &c 569 

Bambarra 570 

Timbuctoo 570 

Houssa    571 

Yaoorie 572 

Boussa    572 

Bergoo    572 

Yarriba 572 

Nyffe,  &c 572 

Bornou,  &c 573 

Begharmi 574 

Mandara,  &c 574 

African  Islands   575 

Azores  or  Western  Islands  ....  575 

Madeira    575 

The  Canary  Islands    575 

The  Cape  Verde  Islands 576 

Fernando  Po,  &c 576 

Ascension 577 

St.  Helena 577 

The  Ethiopian  Archipelago   . . .  577 

Madagascar 577 

Imerina 578 

The  Mascarenha  Islands    578 

Bourbon    578 

Mauritius,  or  the  Isle  of  France  579 

The  Seychelles,  &c 579 

The  Comora  Islands 579 

Pemba,  Zanzibar,  and  Monfia   .  579 
Socotra  580 


Page 

OCEANICA    580 

Malaysia 582 

Sumatra    584 

Java 585 

Bally,  Lombock,  Sumbawa,  &c.  586 

Borneo 586 

The  Sooloo  Archipelago   586 

Celebes  or  Maccassar    587 

The  Moluccas  or  Spice  Islands    587 

The  Philippines 587 

Australasia 568 

Australia 588 

Botany  Bay  Colony 590 

The  Colony  of  West  Australia  591 
The  Colony  of  South  Australia  591 
Van  Diemen's  Land  or  Tasmania  592 

New  Zealand   592 

Papua  or  New  Guinea    593 

Louisiade,  &c 593 

Norfolk  Island   593 

Polynesia    593 

The  Ladrone  or  Marianne  Islands  596 

The  Caroline  Islands    596 

Central  Archipelago    597 

The  Sandwich  Islands    597 

The  Mendana  Archipelago 
The  Society  and  Georgian  lsl-  ) 

amis     S 

King  George's  Islands,  &c.  . . 
The  Pearl  or  Paumotu  Islands, 

&,c 

The  Pulliser,  Hervey,and  Aus- 
tral Islands,  &c 

The  Friendly  Islands    '.  599 

The  Navigator's  Islands    599 

The  Feejee  Islands    599 

The  Tonga  Islands,  &.c 600 

Pitcairn's  Island    600 

Easter  Island    600 

The  Archipelagoes  of  Anson  )    nnn 
and  Magellan $ 


598 
598 
598 
599 

599 


STATISTICAL    TABLES. 

Extent  and  Population  of  the  different  Countries  in  the  World 601 

Date  of  the  Settlement  of  each  of  the  United  Stales 603 

Principal  Religious  Denominations  in  the  United  States 604 

Imports  and  Exports  of  the  United  States G(J4 

Principal  Canals  and  Rail-Roads  in  the  United  States 605 

Population  of  the  United  Slates,  and  comparative  Tables  thereof 607 

Population  of  the  principal  Cities  and  Towns 608 

Colleges  in  the  United  States 609 

Theological,  Law,  and  Medical  Schools 611,  612 

Seats  of  the  State  Governments,  with  times  of  Elections,  &c 612 


7\» *  *  *> 

Of  THi 


UNIVERSITY 

^  or 

VIEW  OF  THE  WORLD. 


INTRODUCTION. 


Geography  is  the  science  which  treats  of  the  form  and  phy- 
sical features  of  the  globe.  It  is  a  study  of  the  greatest  impor- 
tance as  affording  a  knowledge  of  the  surface  of  the  earth,  and 
of  the  manners  and  customs  of  its  inhabitants. 

At  an  early  period  of  the  world,  the  necessity  of  cultivating 
this  science  must  have  attracted  the  attention  of  mankind. 
Their  curiosity  to  know  something  of  the  country  they  inhabited, 
and  the  necessity  of  marking  the  divisions  of  their  property, 
would  unite  in  forming  the  outline,  and  calling  their  attention 
to  it. 

The  origin  of  the  science  of  geography  is  involved  in  darkness 
and  obscurity.  It  was  doubtless  first  cultivated  by  the  early 
eastern  or  first  civilized  nations,  the  Chinese,  the  people  of  India, 
the  Babylonians,  and  next  by  the  Egyptians.  At  length  the 
Greek  philosophers  obtained  a  knowledge  of  the  science,  and 
from  them  it  passed  to  the  Romans  and  the  rest  of  the  Europear 
nations. 

The  Greeks  were  an  acute  and  learned  people.  They  stu- 
died geography,  and  made  many  valuable  improvements  in  the 
science,  yet  their  knowledge  of  the  earth  was  extremely  limited, 
and  some  of  their  opinions  erroneous  and  fanciful.  They  be- 
lieved that  the  tropical  or  hot  regions  of  the  earth,  from  whence 
we  obtain  many  of  the  most  valuable  articles  of  commerce— 
spices,  gold,  ivory,  coffee,  sugar,  &c.,  were  so  burned  up  by  the 
heat  of  the  sun,  that  no  one  could  live  there.  They  also  con- 
ceived the  Arctic  regions  to  be  so  frozen  with  cold,  that  human 
beings  could  not  exist  at  all.  They  were  ignorant  of  the  West- 
ern Continent,  and  their  positive  knowledge  of  the  world  was 
confined  to  comparatively  a  small  part  of  the  eastern  hemisphere. 

It  is  only  within  the  last  three  or  four  hundred  years,  that  the 
erroneous  opinions  of  the  ancient  geographers  with  respect  to 
climate,  have  been  renounced.  In  the  progress  of  the  discove- 
ries made  by  the  Portuguese  along  the  west  coasts  of  Africa, 
between  the  years  1400  and  1500,  the  idea  of  advancing  boldly 
into  the  Torrid  Zone  was  viewed  with  terror ;  and  it  was  only 
by  a  slow  and  gradual  progress  that  it  was  accomplished,  and  the 

(9) 


10  INTRODUCTION. 

fears  entertained  respecting  the  heat  of  those  regions,  found  to 
be  groundless. 

So  early  as  600  years  before  the  Christian  era,  Thales, 
a  Greek  philosopher,  by  the  observation  of  eclipses  and 
various  other  circumstances,  together  with  the  knowledge  he 
acquired  in  his  travels  into  different  parts  of  Asia  and  Egypt, 
became  persuaded  of  the  spherical  form  of  the  earth. 

He  is  supposed  to  have  been  the  first  who  described  the  circles 
or  zones  of  the  spheres,  and  the  annual  progress  of  the  sun 
from  tropic  to  tropic.  He  first  suggested  the  location  of  places 
by  latitude  and  longitude,  and  is  thought  to  have  been  the  author 
of  the  division  of  the  year  into  spring,  summer,  autumn,  and 
winter. 

His  principal  disciples,  Pythagoras,  Anaximenes,  and  Anaxi- 
mander,  were  all  distinguished  men,  and  taught  his  doctrines. 
The  latter  made  some  improvements  upon  the  theory  of  his 
instructor,  and  first  demonstrated  the  earth's  motion  round  its 
axis,  and  is  said  to  have  been  the  first  Greek  who  made  a  map 
to  illustrate  the  principles  of  his  doctrines.  He  likewise  at- 
tempted to  measure  the  circumference  of  the  globe,  set  up  the 
first  sun-dial,  and  discovered  the  obliquity  of  the  ecliptic. 

Nearly  a  century  afterwards,  Herodotus  collected  and  ar- 
ranged the  discoveries  of  his  predecessors,  and  has  given  to 
mankind  a  summary  of  all  that  he  could  learn  respecting  the 
human  race,  and  the  regions  which  they  inhabited. 

This  eminent  writer  found  it  necessary  to  study  geography  to 
illustrate  his  histories,  and  such  was  his  enthusiasm  in  the  prose- 
cution of  this  science,  that  he  visited  Egypt,  Persia,  Assyria, 
Scythia,  and  Thrace,  and  ascertained  from  personal  observation 
many  important  facts. 

In  his  time  it  would  appear  that  the  separation  of  the  Eastern 
Continent  into  three  great  divisions  was  completely  established, 
and  their  boundaries  were  very  nearly  the  same  as  those  admit- 
ted at  the  present  day.  The  extent  given  to  these  vast  regions 
was  of  course  owing  to  a  want  of  information  on  the  part  of 
Herodotus  infinitely  less  than  at  present. 

Afterwards,  Hippocrates  and  Aristotle,  following  the  footsteps 
of  Herodotus,  collected  much  valuable  information  calculated  to 
improve  the  science  of  geography,  and  render  it  more  definite 
and  exact. 

Aristotle,  chosen  to  be  the  preceptor  of  Alexander,  demon- 
strated the  spherical  figure  of  the  earth ;  and,  together  with 
other  stores  of  learning,  enriched  the  mind  of  his  royal  pupil 
with  the  treasures  of  geographical  knowledge. 

When  this  great  monarch  succeeded  to  his  kingdom,  he  was 


INTRODUCTION.  H 

in  the  vigour  of  youth,  and  possessed  within  his  own  dominions 
all  the  science  then  existing  in  Europe.  Ambitious  of  being 
known  as  a  legislator,  conqueror,  and  patron  of  learning,  to  en- 
title himself  to  these  appellations,  he  invited  those  individuals 
most  eminent  for  their  knowledge  in  arts  and  sciences  in  his 
kingdom,  to  attend  him  in  his  expeditions,  surveyors  to  describe 
his  marches,  artificers  to  construct  machines,  and  erect  monu- 
ments of  his  exploits,  and  historians  to  record  his  achievements. 

His  memorable  expedition  to  India  constitutes  an  era  in  the 
history  of  geography,  and  first  opened  the  knowledge  of  that 
interesting  country  to  the  people  of  Europe  ;  and  from  the  actual 
surveys,  journals,  and  memoirs  of  his  principal  officers,  we  are 
made  acquainted  with  a  variety  of  particulars  connected  with 
that  remarkable  expedition,  which  paved  the  way  to  more  exten- 
sive discoveries. 

Alexandria,  the  chosen  city  of  this  renowned  conqueror,  in 
addition  to  being  the  commercial  emporium  of  the  world,  became 
the  fountain  of  knowledge  and  science,  and  the  residence  for  a 
considerable  period  of  the  most  eminent  literary  and  scientific 
men  of  those  ages. 

From  this  school  arose  a  succession  of  individuals,  whose 
labours  and  discoveries  have  been  of  great  service  to  mankind. 
Here  Euclid,  by  his  observations  on  the  heavenly  bodies,  and 
his  luminous  explanations  of  the  principles  of  geometry,  contri- 
buted much  to  the  improvement  of  geography,  and  by  Eratos- 
thenes, the  principles  of  the  science  were  placed  on  so  true  and 
correct  a  basis,  that  their  accuracy  is  recognized  even  at  the 
present  day. 

Hipparchus,  who  flourished  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  years 
before  Christ,  brought  geography  and  astronomy  into  close  con- 
nexion, by  determining  latitudes  and  longitudes  from  celestial 
observations. 

He  also  divided  the  heavens  into  forty-nine  constellations,  and 
gave  names  to  the  stars.  He  is  likewise  supposed  to  have  in- 
vented the  globe  as  a  representation  of  the  earth,  and  inscribed 
it  with  meridians,  parallels,  and  other  celestial  circles,  for  the 
purpose  of  arranging  places  thereon  correctly.  This  great  man 
was  denominated  by  Pliny,  one  of  those  persons  of  sublime 
genius,  who  have  contributed  to  the  benefit  and  illumination  of 
the  human  race. 

The  Romans,  when  they  became  the  conquerors,  became  also 
the  surveyors  of  the  world.  For  the  purpose  of  determining 
the  extent  of  their  dominions,  delineating  the  line  of  their 
marches,  and  notmg  the  sites  of  their  encampments,  surveys 
of  all    the   conquered   countries  were  completed.     Every  war 


12  INTRODUCTION. 

produced  a  new  survey  and  itinerary  of  the  regions,  where  the 
scenes  of  action  passed,  so  that  the  materials  of  geography 
were  accumulated  by  every  additional  conquest. 

So  much  was  their  attention  directed  to  this  branch  of  science, 
that  when  Hannibal  was  preparing  to  advance  from  Spain  into 
Italy,  at  the  beginning  of  the  second  Punic  war,  the  ground  over 
which  he  had  to  pass  had  been  measured  with  the  utmost  care 
by  the  Romans. 

About  50  years  before  the  Christian  era,  Julius  Ccesar  obtained 
a  decree  of  the  senate  to  have  the  whole  Roman  empire  sur- 
veyed. This  vast  work  was  accomplished  in  about  25  years, 
and  is  probably  the  greatest  of  the  kind  ever  undertaken  :  though 
not  performed  with  the  exactness  and  skill  of  modern  survey- 
ing, yet  it  gave  a  precision  to  geographical  delineations  till  then 
unknown. 

Strabo,  contemporary  with  our  Saviour,  was  perhaps  the 
most  exact  and  critical  of  all  the  ancient  geographers.  He  col- 
lected and  combined  into  a  regular  system  the  whole  of  the 
information  then  extant,  respecting  the  different  parts  of  the 
earth,  which  he  performed  with  much  skill  and  ability ;  and  pos- 
terity is  indebted  to  him  for  a  description  of  the  world  as  known 
about  the  commencement  of  the  Christian  era. 

When  the  Roman  Empire  had  been  enlarged  to  its  greatest 
extent,  and  all  its  provinces  well  known  and  accurately  surveyed, 
Ptolemy,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  years  after  Christ,  com- 
posed his  system  of  Geography.  This,  like  Strabo's,  embraced 
the  extent  of  the  known  world.  His  description  of  the  Roman 
Empire,  being  founded  on  actual  survey,  is  tolerably  correct ;  but 
beyond  this  he  has  fallen  into  many  mistakes,  as  his  information 
was  vague  and  imperfect  when  it  related  to  regions  beyond  the 
extremities  of  the  Roman  power. 

In  the  system  by  which  Ptolemy  explained  the  motions  of  the 
heavenly  bodies,  he  supposed  the  earth  to  remain  stationary  in 
the  centre  of  the  universe;  and  the  sun,  moon,  stars,  and  planets 
to  move  round  it  in  solid  orbs,  whose  motions  were  originated 
and  directed  by  one,  denominated  the  Primum  Mobile. 

He  represented  the  earth  as  a  spherical  figure,  and  but  as  a 
point  in  comparison  with  the  rest  of  the  heavenly  bodies ;  and 
treated  at  length  of  the  several  circles  of  the  globe,  and  of  their 
distances  from  the  equator. 

With  all  its  imperfections,  the  system  of  Ptolemy  continued  in 
vogue  for  more  than  thirteen  hundred  years,  nor  was  it  finally 
exploded  until  the  researches  of  modern  science  exposed  its  fal- 
lacy. 

When  the  vast  fabric  of  the  Roman  Empire  had  yielded  to 


INTRODUCTION.  13 

decay,  learning,  science,  and  civilization  were  buried  beneath  its 
mighty  ruins,  and  a  chaos  of  ignorance  and  lethargy  ensued ; 
during  which,  the  inhabitants  of  Europe,  sunk  in  mental  darkness, 
far  from  knowing  or  studying  the  geography  of  the  remote  parts 
of  the  earth,  were  probably  even  unacquainted  with  the  regions 
immediately  adjoining  to  them. 

About  the  beginning  of  the  seventh  century,  the  Arabs  or 
Saracens,  the  most  civilized  people  of  those  times,  became  the 
cultivators  of  the  almost  forgotten  sciences,  and  have  left  some 
valuable  disquisitions  on  various  subjects. 

Even  the  propagation  of  the  Mahomedan  religion,  did  not 
supplant  the  cultivation  of  learning  and  the  useful  arts,  but  by 
the  conquests  that  accompanied  their  conversion,  afforded  new 
materials,  and  eventually  contributed  to  the  advancement  of 
geographical  knowledge. 

During  the  height  of  their  power,  there  arose  amongst  them  a 
race  of  humane  and  polished  princes  who  studiously  sought  to 
encourage  and  advance  almost  all  branches  of  science.  The 
caliph,  Almamon,  who  lived  in  the  ninth  century,  may  rank 
among  the  most  distinguished  patrons  of  learning  who  have  ever 
filled  a  throne. 

In  his  reign,  geography  and  astronomy  were  among  the  most 
favourite  pursuits  of  the  court  of  Bagdad  :  the  works  of  the  Greek 
philosophers  were  translated  into  the  Arabic  language,  and  care- 
fully studied ;  numerous  observations  were  recorded  respecting 
the  various  countries  subjected  to  the  Saracen  arms,  many  of 
which  are  not  unworthy  of  attention  at  the  present  day  ;  and 
their  descriptions  of  some  of  the  interior  regions  of  Asia  and 
Africa  often  coincide  in  a  striking  manner  with  many  of  the  most 
recent  discoveries. 

Possessing  a  great  extent  of  sea  coast,  the  Arabs  were  in  the 
habit  of  carrying  on  an  extensive  trade  along  the  shores  of  the 
Red  sea,  the  coasts  of  Africa,  Madagascar,  Hindoostan,  Ceylon 
Sumatra,  &c.  They  also  spread  their  empire  along  the  northern 
shores  of  Africa,  as  far  as  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  and  even  estab- 
lished one  of  its  chief  seats  in  that  part  of  the  continent. 

This  remarkable  people,  accustomed  in  their  native  region  to 
the  various  modes  of  carrying  on  trade  over  land  and  through 
desert  regions,  were  well  calculated  to  overcome  the  obstacles 
which  nature  presented  in  Africa  on  a  still  greater  scale. 

Their  caravans  soon  formed  routes  across  the  wide  expanse 
of  the  great  desert.  The  banks  of  the  Niger  were  not  only 
explored,  but  colonized,  and  the  greater  part  of  Central  Africa 
became  subject  to  Mahomedan  masters. 

The  geographers  therefore  who  arose  during  the  flourishing 
2  b 


14  INTRODUCTION. 

era  of  Arabian  science,  had  very  ample  opportunities  of  becom- 
ing acquainted  with  this  part  of  the  world,  and  have  accordingly 
left  more  complete  descriptions  of  it  than  any  of  the  more  ancient 
writers. 

Europe  continued  ignorant  and  inactive  until  the  end  of  the 
eleventh  century,  when  that  remarkable  series  of  events,  known 
as  the  Crusades,  took  place.  The  object  of  the  adventurers  who 
engaged  in  those  romantic  expeditions,  was  to  free  the  land  that 
had  given  birth  to  the  Saviour  of  mankind,  from  the  hands  of  the 
Saracens  ;  who,  displaying  the  banners  of  Mahomed  on  the  walls 
of  the  sacred  city,  created  an  enthusiasm  that  impelled  Europe 
to  pour  itself  as  it  were,  in  one  mighty  mass,  upon  the  eastern 
world. 

The  Crusades  exerted  a  powerful  influence  in  dispelling  the 
mental  darkness  in  which  the  nations  of  the  west  were  involved, 
and  in  preparing  that  light  of  science  and  knowledge  which  was 
soon  to  dawn  upon  them.  The  Holy  Land  and  the  other 
interesting  regions  of  that  quarter,  became  objects  of  inquiry. 
Commerce  was  extended,  new  arts  were  introduced,  and  a  spirit 
of  enterprise  was  excited  that  produced  consequences  highly 
beneficial  to  civilization. 

The  spirit  of  curiosity  and  inquiry  excited  by  the  Crusades, 
induced  various  individuals,  actuated  by  other  motives  than  war 
and  conquest,  to  devote  their  lives  to  pursuits  that  enlarged  the 
boundaries  of  knowledge,  and  made  the  people  of  Europe 
acquainted  with  regions,  hitherto  only  heard  of  through  the 
medium  of  the  most  vague  and  uncertain  reports. 

These  consisted  partly  of  ecclesiastics  and  partly  of  merchants; 
the  former,  animated  with  a  zeal  for  the  propagation  of  the  faith 
they  professed,  undertook  long  and  painful  journeys,  endeavour- 
ing, by  the  more  captivating  methods  of  persuasion,  to  propagate 
opinions  which  the  sword  had,  in  vain,  attempted  to  impose.  The 
latter  were  stimulated  by  a  desire  to  visit  the  regions  whence  the 
most  valuable  commodities  then  known  were  derived. 

Amongst  the  first  of  these  mercantile  explorers,  may  be  ranked 
Marco  Polo,  a  noble  Venetian  of  the  thirteenth  century,  whose 
family,  like  many  others  of  the  same  rank,  was  engaged  in  ex- 
tensive commerce.  This  celebrated  traveller,  then  only  nineteen 
years  of  age,  set  out  with  his  father,  Nicolo  Polo,  along  with 
some  Dominican  monks,  in  1271. 

After  twenty-four  years  spent  in  traversing  the  greatest  part 
of  Asia,  and  visiting  the  islands  in  the  Pacific  Ocean,  all  of 
which  were  then  unknown  to  Europeans,  he  returned  to  Italy, 
where  he  was  made  a  prisoner  by  the  Genoese,  then  at  war  with 
Venice.     During  his  captivity  at  Genoa,  he  wrote  the  account 


INTRODUCTION.  15 

of  his  travels ;  which  continued  long  the  guide  to  the  knowledge 
of  these  countries. 

In  the  beginning  of  the  fifteenth  century,  the  Portuguese  began 
to  attract  the  attention  of  other  European  states  by  the  fame  of 
their  military  adventures  and  their  naval  discoveries.  After 
freeing  their  own  country  from  the  vassalage  of  the  Moors,  they 
carried  their  arms  into  Africa,  and  with  the  most  fearless  bravery, 
retaliated  upon  their  inveterate  enemies  the  many  injuries  they 
had  received. 

The  fame  of  their  military  exploits  excited  the  youth  of  Europe 
to  range  themselves  under  the  standard  of  Portugal,  and  every 
victory  gained  paved  the  way  for  another  expedition.  At  this 
period,  the  coast  of  Africa,  as  far  as  Cape  Nun,  had  been  ex- 
plored, but  beyond  that  all  was  involved  in  obscurity  and  dark- 
ness. 

The  invention  of  the  compass,  which  took  place  shortly  before 
so  greatly  facilitated  the  progress  of  discovery,  that  the  daring 
spirit  of  adventure  could  no  longer  be  confined  within  its  former 
limits.  Tn  a  short  time  the  Portuguese  successively  discovered 
Madeira,  the  Azores  or  Western  Islands,  and  passed  Cape  Nun. 

They  continued  to  extend  their  expeditions  along  the  coast  of 
Africa.  In  1445  they  reached  the  Senegal,  and  successively 
discovered  the  Cape  Verde  Islands,  Guinea,  Congo,  and  other 
regions ;  and,  to  crown  their  exertions,  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope 
was  doubled  in  1486. 

In  1497,  Vasco  de  Gama  was  despatched  for  the  purpose  of 
exploring  a  passage  to  India  by  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  This 
adventurous  navigator  first  burst  the  great  barrier  of  discovery 
to  the  East.  After  sailing  round  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and 
touching  at  Mozambique  and  Melinda,  where  he  obtained  pilots  ; 
and  traversing  the  Arabian  Sea,  landed  at  Calicut,  on  the  Mala- 
bar coast,  in  1498. 

Succeeding  navigators  soon  pushed  their  discoveries  along  the 
eastern  coast  of  Africa,  the  Arabian  shores,  and,  finally,  these 
bold  adventurers  in  a  short  time  discovered  the  islands  in  the 
Indian  Archipelago. 

While  the  progress  of  discovery  was  so  rapid  in  the  East,  the 
West  became,  at  the  same  time,  the  scene  of  a  most  important 
event,  from  the  adventurous  and  successful  project  of  Columbus. 
This  intrepid  navigator  had  conceived  the  idea  of  discovering  a 
passage  to  India  by  boldly  holding  a  westerly  course,  trusting  to 
the  guidance  of  the  compass. 

He  sailed  from  Spain  in  1492,  and,  after  a  voyage  of  seventy 
days,  he  reached  the  shores  of  America  on  the  12th  of  October 
of  the  same  year,  opening  the  great  western  hemisphere  to  the 


16  INTRODUCTION. 

knowledge  of  the  Old  World,  and  immortalizing  his  name  by  an 
enterprise  of  the  greatest  importance  to  mankind. 

Spain  did  not  relax  in  her  endeavours  to  find  out  a  new  road 
to  India,  and  fitted  out,  for  the  accomplishment  of  that  object, 
another  expedition  under  the  command  of  Magellan,  who  suc- 
ceeded in  passing  the  extremity  of  South  America  through  the 
strait  that  bears  his  name,  and,  continuing  his  voyage  westward, 
reached  the  islands  on  the  east  coast  of  Asia. 

After  his  death,  which  happened  at  one  of  the  Philippine 
islands,  his  companions  continued  their  course,  and,  touching  at 
the  Moluccas,  returned  by  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  to  Europe. 
The  discovery  of  the  passage  to  India, of  the  continent  of  Ame- 
rica by  Columbus,  and  the  circumnavigation  of  the  globe,  were 
the  three  great  events  by  which  Providence  laid  open  to  man- 
kind the  extent  and  form  of  the  earth. 

The  English,  though  not  fortunate  in  accomplishing  any  of 
the  early  maritime  adventures,  yet  soon  began  to  feel  an  anxiety 
to  have  some  share  of  the  honours  and  profits  to  be  acquired  in 
these  exploits.  Sir  Francis  Drake  undertook  an  expedition  in 
1578,  discovered  the  southern  extremity  of  Terra  del  Fuego, 
with  some  other  parts  of  the  western  coast  of  America,  and 
completed  the  circumnavigation  of  the  globe  in  1051  days. 

After  this,  the  French,  Dutch,  Spaniards,  and  other  European 
nations,  fitted  out  expeditions  of  discovery,  until  nearly  the 
whole  of  the  new  continent  was  explored.  Nova  Zembla,  Spitz- 
bergen,  New  Holland,  or  Australia,  became  successively  known  ; 
and  at  length  Captain  Cook,  by  his  great  skill  and  persevering 
industry,  withdrew  the  veil  that  long  hung  over  the  southern 
hemisphere,  and  has  added  to  our  knowledge  of  those  regions 
many  new  islands,  together  with  various  products,  animals,  and 
tribes  previously  unknown. 

Those  intrepid  travellers,  Park,  Clapperton,  the  Landers,  and 
others,  by  their  discoveries  in  the  interior  of  Africa,  have  given 
a  new  insight  into  that  continent,  and  have  not  only  gained  im- 
mortal honour  for  themselves,  but  enlarged  the  boundaries  of 
knowledge,  and  conferred  a  benefit  on  mankind. 

The  zeal  with  which  civilized  nations  follow  up  the  discovery 
of  the  unknown  parts  of  the  earth,  appears  to  be  in  no  degree 
abated.  The  continuous  efforts  to  penetrate  the  inland  regions 
of  Africa  and  Australia,  the  exertions  made  to  effect  a  nearer 
approach  to  both  the  northern  and  southern  poles,  and  the  dis- 
coveries in  the  northern  parts  of  America,  all  indicate  the  inte- 
rest taken  by  nations  in  geographical  discoveries. 

These,  with  the  numerous  exploring  and  surveying  expeditions 
sent  out  from  time  to  time  by  different  European  powers,  and 


INTRODUCTION.  17 

that  which  sailed  recently  from  our  own  shores,  all  hold  out  a 
prospect  that  a  complete  knowledge  of  the  surface  of  the  globe 
we  inhabit  may  be  accomplished  at  no  very  remote  period  of 
time. 

For  many  ages,  the  ignorant  and  uninformed  part  of  mankind 
were  of  opinion  that  the  surface  of  the  earth  was  a  vast  extended 
plain  of  unknown  thickness,  bounded  on  all  sides  by  the  sea  and 
sky,  beneath  which  were  the  abodes  of  the  spirits  of  the  dead, 
and  the  regions  of  Elysium  and  Tartarus,  or  the  Heaven  and 
Hell  of  the  ancients. 

The  firmament  in  which  the  sun,  moon,  and  stars,  appeared 
to  move  daily  from  west  to  east,  was  supposed  to  be  a  solid  con- 
cave sphere,  elevated  at  no  great  distance  from  the  earth,  and 
designed  merely  for  its  ornament  and  use. 

More  attentive  observers  were,  however,  long  since  persuaded 
that  the  earth  is  a  vast  ball,  globe,  or  sphere,  maintaining  its 
apparent  place  amongst  the  innumerable  bodies  composing  the 
universe,  and  far  removed  from  the  contact  of  any  other  body 
of  either  the  same  or  a  different  kind. 

Although  some  of  the  ancient  Greek  geographers  and  astro- 
nomers taught  the  theory  of  the  spherical  form  of  the  earth,  yet 
this  knowledge  was  confined  to  a  very  few ;  and,  to  avoid  the 
effects  of  popular  prejudice,  was  often  taught  in  secret. 

It  is  related  of  Pythagoras,  that  in  public  he  inculcated  the 
vulgar  doctrine,  that  the  earth  is  the  centre  of  the  universe;  but 
to  his  scholars  he  communicated  privately  his  real  opinions, 
which  were  similar  to  those  afterwards  adopted  by  Copernicus — 
that  the  earth  and  all  the  planets  move  round  about  the  sun  as 
their  common  centre. 

Owing  to  the  unenlightened  state  of  Europe  for  many  centu- 
ries after  the  downfall  of  the  Roman,  empire,  the  true  doctrine 
of  the  system  of  the  universe  was  lost  sight  of  and  forgotten, 
and  the  absurd  notion  of  the  earth  being  a  circular  or  square 
plane  prevailed,  and  was  almost  universally  adopted. 

It  is  only  within  the  last  two  or  three  hundred  years  that  the 
doctrine  of  the  true  figure  and  motions  of  the  earth  has  been 
generally  received  ;  and  to  have  asserted  the  opinions  now  held 
respecting  it,  would  at  one  time  have  been  considered  as  heresy 
in  religion,  and  would  have  subjected  its  advocates  to  the  cen- 
sure of  the  church,  and  even  endangered  their  lives. 

Historians  inform  us  that  the  learned  Spegelius,  Bishop   of 

Upsal,  in  Sweden,  suffered  martyrdom  at  the  stake,  in  defence 

of  the  doctrine  of  the  spherical  form  of  the  earth  ;  and  we  know 

that  for  asserting  its  motions,  the  celebrated  Galileo  of  Florence 

2*  B* 


18  INTRODUCTION. 

was  much  persecuted,  deprived  of  his  freedom,  and  forced  to 
renounce  publicly  the  important  truths  he  had  promulgated. 

The  doctrine  he  maintained,  and  which  is  now  universally 
received  by  all  well-educated  and  intelligent  persons,  was  declared 
by  his  ignorant  judges  to  be  a  proposition  absurd  in  its  very  na- 
ture, false  in  philosophy,  heretical  in  religion,  and  contrary  to  the 
Holy  Scriptures. 

Such  are  some  of  the  pernicious  consequences  which  flow 
from  ignorance  of  the  phenomena  of  nature,  and  of  those  laws 
by  which  the  Almighty  governs  the  universe  he  has  formed  ;  and 
which  proves  it  to  be  a  Christian  duty  for  every  rational  being 
to  study  the  order  and  economy  of  the  visible  world. 

The  author  of  the  theory  of  the  true  system  of  the  universe, 
now  received  by  all  civilized  and  enlightened  nations,  was  Nicho- 
las Copernicus,  born  at  Thorn,  in  Poland,  in  the  year  1472, 
although  it  is  supposed  to  be  merely  a  revival  of  the  system 
taught  privately  by  several  ancient  philosophers  more  than  500 
years  before  the  time  of  our  Saviour. 

When  the  earth  was  understood  to  be  a  spherical  body, 
attempts  were  naturally  made  to  ascertain  its  dimensions.  Era- 
tosthenes, a  celebrated  geographer  of  Alexandria,  who  lived 
about  two  hundred  and  fifty  years  before  our  era,  by  means  of 
observations  of  the  sun's  meridian  altitude  at  Alexandria  and 
Syene,  a  town  of  Upper  Egypt,  nearly  due  south  from  the  former 
place,  made  calculations  for  that  purpose.  He  estimated  the 
circumference  of  the  earth,  supposing  it  to  be  a  perfect  sphere, 
to  be  about  25,646  English  miles,  which  somewhat  exceeds  the 
truth,  but  is,  nevertheless,  a  wonderful  approach  to  it,  considering 
the  very  imperfect  state  of  the  science  of  geography  in  his  time, 
as  well  as  the  defectiveness  of  the  instruments  he  must  have 
employed  in  his  operations. 

Posidonius,  another  ancient  geographer  and  astronomer,  made 
observations  for  the  same  purpose ;  the  result  of  which  appears 
to  have  been  considerably  less  than  that  calculated  by  Eratos- 
thenes, and  rather  less  than  what  has  been  obtained  by  modern 
operations. 

About  the  year  800  of  the  Christian  era,  Almamon,  Caliph  of 
Bagdad,  directed  his  astronomers  to  ascertain  the  length  of  a 
degree  of  the  meridian,  on  the  plains  of  Mesopotamia.  The 
extent  of  two  degrees  was  measured  by  them,  and  an  estimate 
of  the  earth's  circumference  deduced  from  it ;  but  our  ignorance 
of  the  exact  length  of  the  unit  of  distance  used  in  this  operation, 
renders  the  result  obtained  by  it  entirely  useless  to  us. 

When  measurements  for  the  purpose  of  determining  the  dimen- 
sions of  the  earth  were  made  in  later  times,  on  various  parts  of 


INTRODUCTION.  19 

its  surface,  the  results  were  so  far  from  agreeing,  one  with 
another,  that  philosophers  began  to  suspect  the  earth  not  to  be  a 
perfect  sphere,  all  whose  diameters  were  equal ;  and  the  difficulty 
was  to  ascertain  in  what  direction  the  longest  and  shortest 
diameters  were  situated. 

From  considerations,  arising  from  the  nature  of  the  earth 
itself,  and  the  motions  to  which  it  is  subjected,  Sir  Isaac  Newton 
proved,  that  the  shortest  diameter  must  be  that  which  passes 
through  the  centre,  from  north  to  south,  and  the  longest,  that 
which  passes  from  east  to  west. 

Cassini,  and  other  learned  men  on  the  continent,  combated 
this  opinion ;  but  the  repeated  measurements  of  degrees  on 
various  and  distant  parts  of  the  earth's  surface,  performed  with 
the  greatest  care,  and  by  means  of  the  highly  improved  instru- 
ments of  modern  times,  have  fully  established  the  truth  of  Sir 
Isaac's  theory. 

It  has  even  been  estimated  that  the  diameter  of  the  centre  of 
the  earth,  from  west  to  east,  is  about  34  English  miles  longer 
than  that  from  north  to  south. 

Upon  taking  a  medium  of  all  the  different  dimensions  of  the 
earth,  it  has  been  found  that  if  it  were  a  perfect  sphere,  the  axis 
would  be  about  7,930  English  miles,  and  consequently  the  cir- 
cumference about  24,913  miles.  Hence,  the  superficial  area  of 
the  globe  would  be  about  197,560,000  square  English  miles, 
and  the  length  of  a  degree  on  a  great  circle  of  such  a  sphere, 
would  be  equal  to  69.2  English  miles. 

How  the  ancients  came  to  be  convinced  of  the  spherical  form 
of  the  earth,  we  have  now  no  means  of  discovering  ;  but  the  con- 
sideration of  a  few  facts  will  render  its  demonstration  simple  and 
easy. 

When  we  recede  from  elevated  objects,  they  seem  to  sink 
below  the  horizon,  and  their  disappearance  commences  with  their 
base ;  when  we  approach  them,  they  seem  to  rise  above  the 
horizon :  first  their  summits  are  seen,  then  their  middle  parts, 
and  ultimately  the  lower  portions. 

When  a  ship,  for  instance,  leaves  the  shore  and  goes  out  to 
sea,  first  the  hull  disappears,  and  then  the  masts,  gradually,  from 
the  bottom  to  the  top.  When,  on  the  contrary,  a  ship  approaches 
the  land,  the  top  of  the  masts  is  first  seen,  and  then  the  lower 
parts  of  the  vessel  gradually  appear.  Now,  if  the  earth  were  a 
plain,  or  a  flat  surface,  this  would  not  be  the  case,  but  the  whole 
of  an  object  would  disappear  or  become  visible  at  the  same 
time. 

And  since  the  same  appearances  have  been  observed  in  every 
^art  of  the  world  which  has  been  visited  by  man,  it  follows,  that 


20  INTRODUCTION. 

the  whole  surface  of  the  earth,  is,  on  all  sides,  nearly  regularly 
curved  ;  that  is  to  say,  the  figure  of  the  earth  bears  a  close 
affinity  to  a  sphere. 

Numerous  voyages  have  been  made  round  the  world.  Navi- 
gators, such  as  Magellan,  Sir  Francis  Drake,  Anson,  and  Captain 
Cook,  have  sailed  to  the  west,  and  come  home  from  the  east ;  or 
sailed  to  the  east,  and  come  home  from  the  west ;  which  could 
never  have  been  done,  if  the  form  of  the  earth  were  not  sphe- 
rical. 

The  changes  which  take  place  in  the  appearances  of  the 
heavenly  bodies  in  travelling  or  sailing  to  different  parts  of  the 
world,  also  prove  that  the  earth  is  spherical. 

In  approaching  the  North  Pole,  for  example,  the  polar  star 
takes  a  more  elevated  position  in  the  heavens  ;  while,  in  proceed- 
ing to  the  south,  the  same  star  appears  to  sink,  and  others  suc- 
cessively rise,  which  were  before  invisible.  These  changes  can 
evidently  only  occur,  upon  the  principleofthe  globular  form  of  the 
earth. 

In  eclipses  of  the  moon,  which  are  produced  by  the  interven- 
tion of  the  earth  between  that  body  and  the  sun,  the  boundary  of 
the  shadow  of  the  earth  upon  the  body  of  the  moon  is  always 
of  a  circular  form ;  and  nothing  but  a  spherical  body  can,  in  all 
situations,  produce  a  circular  shadow. 

That  the  earth  is  a  round  body,  is  thus  completely  proved  by 
experience  and  observation :  yet,  when  this  doctrine  is  presented 
to  the  mind  for  the  first  time,  there  is  some  difficulty  in  believing 
that  the  globe  is  balanced,  as  it  were,  on  its  centre,  without  any 
visible  support,  while  all  things  at  rest  on  its  surface  require  to 
be  supported. 

We  must,  however,  consider  that  the  bodies  which  we  see  fall 
towards  the  centre  of  the  earth  are  mere  atoms  in  comparison  to 
the  earth  itself;  and  that,  although  their  tendency  to  its  centre  is 
another  fact  proved  by  experience,  yet  it  does  not  thence  follow 
that  the  earth  itself  should  move  towards  one  point  of  space  rather 
than  towards  another. 

A  little  reflection  will  show  that  there  is  no  inconsistency  in 
supposing  the  earth,  an  immense  mass,  to  be  at  rest,  and  all  things 
to  be  retained  on  its  surface  by  some  force  analogous  to  that  by 
which  a  piece  of  iron  is  drawn  towards  a  magnet.  This  is  really 
the  fact ;  and  a  consequence  of  it  is,  that  on  opposite  sides  of  the 
earth,  its  inhabitants  stand  in  opposite  directions,  with  their  feet 
towards  each  other,  for  which  reason  they  are  called  antipodes; 
and  every  country  has  its  own  antipodes. 


THE  WORLD. 


The  World  comprises  five  great  divisions,  viz :  America, 
Europe,  Asia,  Africa  and  Oceanica  :  the  second,  third,  and  fourth 
of  them,  comprised  all  that  was  known  to  the  ancients  :  hence,  this 
part  of  the  earth  is  frequently  called  the  Old  World,  and  also 
the  Eastern  Continent ;  and  America,  by  way  of  distinction,  is 
often  called  the  New  World,  and  likewise  the  Western  Con- 
tinent. 

America  is  a  vast  continent,  entirely  separated  from  the 
other  parts  of  the  earth.  It  comprises  two  great  divisions,  and 
was  discovered  by  Christopher  Columbus,  in  the  year  1492. 

Though  America  is  inferior  either  to  Europe,  Asia,  or  Africa 
in  population,  and  particularly  to  the  former  in  knowledge, 
refinement,  and  importance ;  yet  its  vast  extent,  great  natural 
capacities,  and  the  freedom  of  its  political  institutions,  will,  in 
time,  enable  the  nations  of  the  Western  Continent,  not  only  to 
equal,  but  probably  much  to  surpass,  the  greatest  monarchies  of 
the  Old  World. 

Europe,  though  the  smallest  of  the  three  great  divisions  of 
the  Eastern  Continent,  is  the  first  in  importance,  the  most  thickly 
peopled,  and  the  best  cultivated.  In  modern  times  it  has  been 
the  point  from  which  civilization  and  knowledge  have  been 
extended  to  other  nations,  and  its  emigrants  have  peopled  all  the 
civilized  countries  of  the  other  parts  of  the  world. 

Though  Europe  was  the  latest  portion  of  the  Eastern  Continent 
that  received  the  light  of  civilization,  yet  it  must  now  be  con- 
sidered as  the  centre  of  refinement  and  learning.  The  most 
useful  inventions  in  the  arts,  the  finest  productions  of  genius, 
and  the  improvement  of  all  the  sciences,  belong  to  the  people  of 
this  region. 

Asia  is  the  largest  and  most  populous  of  the  great  divisions 
of  the  globe.  It  has  been  the  seat  of  some  of  the  most  powerful 
empires  of  ancient  times,  and  the  theatre  of  many  of  the  most 
interesting  events  recorded  in  history. 

(21) 


22  THE   WORLD. 

It  was  here  our  first  parents  were  created,  and  from  this 
quarter  the  descendants  of  Noah  peopled  the  world  after  the 
flood.  It  was  also  the  birth-place  of  our  Saviour,  the  scene  of 
his  miracles  and  death,  and  the  field  on  which  the  Apostles  first 
published  salvation  to  man. 

In  Asia  all  has  continued  fixed  as  if  by  enchantment.  We 
see  empires  whose  origin  is  lost  in  the  unknown  beginnings  of 
time ;  laws,  institutions,  and  ideas,  which  have  remained  unaltered 
during  thousands  of  years,  exhibiting  a  picture  of  the  domestic 
life  of  man,  as  it  existed  in  the  earliest  ages. 

Africa  is  a  vast  peninsula,  joined  to  Asia  by  the  isthmus  of 
Suez.  It  comprises  nearly  one-fourth  part  of  the  land  surface  of 
the  globe,  being  about  one-third  less  than  Asia,  and  three  times 
larger  than  Europe. 

This  quarter  of  the  world  is  almost  wholly  in  a  state  of  bar- 
barism, yet  in  ancient  times  its  northern  countries  were  among 
the  most  enlightened  in  the  world,  and  still  have  written  languages. 
They  are  now,  however,  among  the  lowest  of  the  half-civilized 
nations. 

Africa  is  the  hottest  region  of  the  globe,  and  lies  mostly  within 
the  tropics.  The  influence  of  a  tropical  climate  extends  even 
to  those  portions  which  are  in  the  temperate  zones. 

Oceanica  is  the  last  established  and  least  important  of  the 
great  divisions  of  the  earth.  It  comprises  a  vast  assemblage  of 
islands,  situated  partly  to  the  south  of  Asia,  and  partly  in  the 
wide  Pacific  between  Asia  and  America. 

The  discovery  of  this  quarter  of  the  globe  commenced  after 
America  and  the  Pacific  Ocean  were  known  to  Europeans.  The 
interior  of  some  of  its  larger  islands  are  among  the  least  known 
portions  of  the  earth,  and  many  of  the  inhabitants  are  still  in  a 
state  of  the  most  savage  and  degrading  rudeness. 

The  earth's  surface  contains  near  200,000,000  square  miles, 
of  which  about  a  fourth  part  only  is  dry  land ;  the  remaining 
three-fourths  are  water.  Of  the  entire  surface  of  the  earth, 
America  comprises  about  a  15th  part,  Europe  a  57th,  Asia 
a  13th,  Africa  an  18th,  and  the  Oceanic  islands  a  44th. 

The  interior  of  the  earth  is  entirely  unknown  to  us,  as  the 
depth  to  which  we  have  been  able  to  penetrate  is  nothing  in  com- 
parison with  its  diameter.  Many  modern  philosophers  are  of 
opinion  that  the  interior  is  composed  of  a  metallic  mass  of  matter. 
Its  solid  contents  are  estimated  at  more  than  250,000  millions 
of  cubic  miles,  while  its  mean  density  is  only  4i  times  that  of 
pure  water. 


AMERICA. 

America  is  a  vast  continent  comprising  one  of  the  grand 
divisions  of  the  globe ;  it  contains  about  three-tenths  of  the  dry- 
land on  the  surface  of  the  earth,  and  is  washed  on  both  sides  by 
vast  oceans,  on  the  east  by  the  Atlantic,  and  on  the  west  by  the 
Pacific.  It  ranges  from  north  to  south  through  125  degrees  of 
latitude,  and  in  its  widest  part  113  degrees  of  longitude,  being 
in  length  9000  miles,  and  in  average  breadth  about  2000 ;  the 
extent  of  surface  is  estimated  at  15,000,000  square  miles. 

America  comprehends  the  tropical  and  temperate  climates  on 
both  sides  of  the  equator,  with  part  of  the  arctic.  The  whole 
of  the  continent  north  of  latitude  55°  may  be  considered  as  a 
frozen  region.  In  Greenland,  and  around  Hudson's  Bay,  mer- 
cury freezes  in  winter,  and  ice  and  snow  accumulate  on  the  land 
and  water,  and  cover  a  great  part  of  the  country  throughout 
the  year. 

The  winter  begins  in  August,  and  continues  for  nine  months. 
In  summer  the  heat  is  as  great  as  in  New  England  ;  it  continues, 
however,  for  too  short  a  period  to  bring  grain  to  maturity,  and 
cultivation  is  very  little  practised.  Vegetation  is  too  scanty  to 
supply  the  inhabitants  with  any  considerable  part  of  their  food : 
they  therefore  live  chiefly  on  seals  and  other  productions  of  the 
sea,  and  on  the  animals  killed  in  the  chase. 

Between  55°  and  46°  north,  the  climate  of  North  America  is 
still  severe.  In  winter  the  cold  is  intense,  and  the  snow,  which 
begins  to  fall  in  November,  remains  till  May.  The  summer 
advances  with  such  rapidity,  that  the  season  of  spring  is  hardly 
known.  In  June  the  fields  and  forests  are  covered  with  luxu- 
riant verdure ;  grain  is  abundant,  and  in  some  portions  is  culti- 
vated with  success. 

The  temperate  parts  of  North  America  may  be  considered 
as  extending  from  46°  to  37°  north  latitude.  These  regions  are 
prolific  in  grass,  the  various  descriptions  of  grain,  and  a  variety 
of  fruits  are  produced  in  great  abundance. .  From  37°  north  to 
the  latitude  of  40  degrees  south,  the  climate  is  hot,  and  the  pro- 
ducts constitute  some  of  the  most  valuable  articles  of  commerce, 
being  chiefly  tobacco,  cotton,  rice,  indigo,  coffee,  sugar,  and  the 
various  tropical  fruits.  Beyond  latitude  40°  south,  the  climate 
again  becomes  cold,  and  at  Terra  del  Fuego  it  is  severe.  At 
the  South  Shetland  Islands,  in  latitude  63°  and  64°  south,  the 
climate  is  that  of  Greenland  and  Spitzbergen. 

Nature  in  this  continent  assumes  an  aspect  of  peculiar  mag- 
nificence ;  for  whether  we  consider  its  mountains,  its  rivers,  its 

(23) 


24  AMERICA. 

lakes,  its  forests,  or  its  plains,  America  appears  to  be  distin- 
guished in  all  those  leading  features  by  a  grandeur  not  to  be 
found  in  the  other  parts  of  the  globe.  It  contains  a  great  variety 
of  wild  animals ;  and,  since  its  discovery,  the  species  usually 
domesticated  in  Europe  have  been  introduced,  and  are  now  found 
in  great  abundance.  The  birds  are  exceedingly  numerous,  and 
are  said  to  be  more  beautiful  in  their  plumage  than  those  of  the 
old  continent,  but  in  their  notes  less  melodious. 

The  vegetable  kingdom  is  in  the  highest  degree  rich  and 
varied,  many  of  the  trees  are  amongst  the  most  ornamental  and 
useful,  the  fruits  are  rich  and  in  great  profusion,  the  plants  and 
flowering  shrubs  exceedingly  diversified  and  beautiful,  and  almost 
all  the  various  species  of  grain  necessary  to  sustain  life  are  cul- 
tivated, and  atFord  abundant  crops.  In  mineral  treasures,  Ame- 
rica surpasses  all  the  other  quarters  of  the  globe. 

South  America  and  Mexico  abound  particularly  in  the  pre- 
cious metals,  and  such  ample  supplies  have  been  carried  to 
European  markets  that  their  value  has  been  greatly  diminished 
since  the  discovery  of  the  American  mines ;  all  the  more  com- 
mon metals,  minerals,  and  precious  stones,  are  found  in  great 
profusion,  and  many  of  them  furnish  the  materials  for  extensive 
and  important  manufactures. 

The  inhabitants  of  this  continent  have  been  estimated  at  45 
millions  ;  of  this  number  about  19  millions  are  supposed  to  be 
whites,  10  millions  of  the  aboriginal  race,  8  millions  of  negroes, 
and  8  millions  of  the  mixed  race,  as  mulattoes,  zamboes,  &c. 
The  whites  are  chiefly  English  in  the  north,  and  Spaniards  in 
the  south,  with  some  French,  Portuguese,  German,  Dutch, 
Danes,  Swedes,  &c.  The  negroes  are  Africans,  whom  the 
cupidity  of  the  European  races  has  dragged  into  slavery,  or 
descendants  of  the  earlier  victims  of  this  barbarous  traffic. 

The  aboriginal  population  consists  of  two  distinct  races,  the 
Esquimaux,  inhabiting  the  maritime  districts  of  the  Arctic 
regions,  and  the  copper-coloured  Indians,  who  are  spread  over 
all  the  rest  of  the  continent ;  their  origin  has  been  a  subject  of 
much  investigation,  but  the  total  absence  of  historical  records 
among  the  Indians  themselves,  renders  it  difficult  to  arrive  at 
any  satisfactory  result. 

It  has  been  discovered  that  there  are  remarkable  resemblances 
between  some  of  the  languages  of  Asia  and  those  of  the  Indians, 
and  hence  it  becomes  nearly  certain  that  they  came  from  the 
Asiatic  continent,  but  at  what  period  they  emigrated  it  is  impos- 
sible to  determine.  It  is  evident  that  they  are  a  distinct  people, 
being  essentially  different  in  several  respects  from  any  of  the 
existing  races  on  the  eastern  continent. 


NORTH   AMERICA.  25 

The  political  state  of  America  presents  some  striking  features 
and  contrasts.  The  native  tribes  who  still  survive,  are  partly 
held  in  subjection  by  European  Americans ;  but  the  greater 
number  wander  over  their  extensive  wilds,  either  in  rude  inde- 
pendence, or  ruled  despotically  by  their  chiefs  and  caciques. 
The  European  colonists,  who  form  now  by  far  the  most  numer- 
ous and  important  part  of  the  population,  were  long  held  in  sub- 
jection to  the  mother  countries,  the  chief  of  which  were  Spain 
and  Great  Britain ;  but  the  greater  part  of  them  have  now 
established  their  independence,  and  have  generally  adopted  the 
republican  form  of  government. 

Another  political  element  is  formed  by  the  negroes,  who  are 
mostly  in  a  state  of  slavery ;  a  numerous  body  of  them,  how- 
ever, in  one  of  the  finest  West  Indian  Islands,  have  emancipated 
themselves  and  become  a  free  people ;  while  Great  Britain  has 
recently  bestowed  unrestricted  liberty  on  the  large  numbers  by 
whom  her  islands  are  cultivated.  There  yet  remain  about  five 
millions  of  black  slaves  in  Brazil  and  the  United  States,  besides 
a  considerable  number  in  the  other  European  colonies. 

Many  of  the  indigenous  tribes  have  become,  at  least  in  name 
and  outward  forms,  converted  to  Christianity  ;  but  a  great  num- 
ber still  cherish  the  crude  notions  and  rude  ceremonials  of  their 
native  faith.  The  European  Americans  have  commonly  retained 
the  religious  creed  of  their  mother  country,  so  that,  while  in  the 
French,  Spanish,  and  Portuguese  colonies,  the  Roman  Catholic 
is  the  prevailing  system,  those  countries  that  have  been  settled 
by  English  colonists,  are  chiefly  of  the  Protestant  persuasions. 
The  negroes  have  generally  been  instructed  in  the  elements  of 
Christianity. 

The  whole  number  of  Roman  Catholics  may  be  estimated  at 
about  25£  millions,  of  Protestants  16  millions,  and  of  uncon- 
verted Indians  3£  millions.  In  this  estimate,  however,  the 
negroes  are  considered  as  belonging  to  the  denomination  em- 
braced by  their  masters. 


NORTH  AMERICA. 

North  America  comprises  that  portion  of  the  New  World 
extending  northward  from  the  Isthmus  of  Darien.  The  area  of 
this  vast  region  is  about  7,500,000  square  miles. 

Its  winding  outline  presents  a  great  extent  of  sea-coast,  which 
is  estimated  to  amount  to  about  9500  miles  on  the  eastern,  and 
3  c 


26  NORTH   AMERICA. 

somewhat  less  on   the  western  side,  exclusive  of  those  on  the 
frozen  shores  of  the  northern  border. 

Mountain  ranges,  peculiarly  distinguished  by  their  magnitude 
and  continuity,  pervade  this  quarter  of  the  world.  Those  of 
North  America  consist  of  two  great  chains,  the  eastern  and 
western ;  the  latter,  or  Rocky  Mountain  range,  known  also  as 
the  Chipewayan.  Passing  through  Guatimala  from  the  Isthmus 
of  Darien,  it  spreads  out,  in  Mexico,  into  extensive  table-lands, 
crowned  by  lofty  volcanic  peaks :  running  thence  through  the 
western  regions  of  the  United  States,  and  the  British  possessions, 
it  finally  sinks  to  a  level  on  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea,  west- 
ward of  the  Mackenzie  River.  In  its  general  course  it  is  nearly 
parallel  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  forming  the  great  dividing  ridge, 
or  line  of  separation,  between  the  eastern  and  western  waters, 
the  principal  of  which  have  their  origin  in  its  rugged  declivities. 

The  only  other  extensive  range  is  the  Alleghany,  which,  run- 
ning parallel  to  the  eastern  coast  of  the  United  States,  throws 
off  some  irregular  and  rather  slightly  connected  branches 
diverging  into  Canada.  This  consists  principally  of  two  paral- 
lel chains,  the  Alleghany  and  the  Blue  Ridge.  These,  however, 
are  not  so  extensive  in  their  range,  nor  do  they  attain  the  ele- 
vation of  the  great  western  chain. 

The  rivers  of  North  America  constitute  perhaps  her  grandest 
natural  features,  or  at  least  those  in  which  she  may  claim  the 
most  decided  pre-eminence  over  the  other  quarters  of  the  globe. 
They  are  unequalled  both  in  their  length  of  course  and  in  the 
vast  masses  which  they  pour  into  the  ocean.  The  Mackenzie, 
the  Saskatchawan,  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  Missouri,  the  Missis 
sippi,  the  Rio  del  Norte,  the  Colorado,  and  the  Columbia,  are  the 
principal  streams.  They  all  rise  in  the  central  part  of  the  con- 
tinent, and,  flowing  in  different  directions,  pour  their  waters  intc 
the  Arctic,  Atlantic,  and  Pacific  Oceans.  The  Mississippi  ha& 
the  longest  course,  but  the  St.  Lawrence  discharges  the  greatest 
volume  of  water. 

The  lakes  of  North  America  are  numerous  and  important : 
those  named  Ontario,  Erie,  Huron,  Michigan,  and  Superior, 
form  the  largest  bodies  of  fresh  water  in  the  world.  Com- 
municating with  the  sea  by  the  broad  channel  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, and  in  a  country  whose  population  is  rapidly  increasing, 
they  are  becoming  of  the  greatest  importance  to  commerce. 
Similar  lakes  extend  to  the  northward  as  far  as  the  Arctic  Sea  ; 
the  Winnipeg,  the  Athabasca,  the  Great  Slave,  and  the  Great 
Bear  Lake ;  but  these,  only  distantly  connected  with  the  ocean, 
and  frozen  for  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  cannot  serve  any 
commercial  purpose. 


NORTH   AMERICA. 

J^n^  Tripe  de  Roche. 


The  Tripe  de  Roche  (Rock  Tripe)  grows  in  the  northern  regions  of  America,  and  in 
times  of  scarcity  is  often  eaten  by  the  Canadian  hunters  and  boatmen.  Those  enter- 
prising travellers,  Captain  Franklin  and  Dr.  Richardson,  and  some  of  their  companions, 
when  destitute  of  other  food,  were  supported  by  it  for  many  days. 


Dogwood. 


Tulip  Tree. 


Magnolia. 


NORTH    AMERICA. 


White  Bear. 


American  Black  Bear. 


Panther,  or  Cougar. 


Beaver. 


Canada  Lynx. 


NORTH   AMERICA.  27 

The  Plains  of  the  New  World  form  almost  as  great  and  re- 
markable an  object  as  its  mountains.  In  North  America,  of 
those  more  especially  worthy  of  attention,  the  first  is  the  plain 
along  the  Atlantic,  between  that  ocean  and  the  eastern  range  of 
mountains.  To  that  belongs  the  original  territory  of  the  United 
States.  It  is  a  region  of  natural  forests ;  of  mixed,  but  rather 
poor  soil,  and  of  but  moderate  fertility.  The  second  is  that  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  continent,  between  the  Rocky  Mountains 
and  the  Pacific  Ocean ;  a  country  with  a  mild  and  humid  atmo- 
sphere, as  far  north  as  55°,  but  inhospitable  beyond  that  latitude. 

The  most  extensive  is  the  great  central  valley  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, rich  and  well  wooded  on  the  east  side ;  bare,  but  not  un- 
fertile in  the  middle ;  dry,  sandy,  and  almost  a  desert  on  the 
west.  This  vast  plateau  is  prolonged  without  interruption,  from 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico  to  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea,  so  that,  as 
has  been  observed,  one  of  its  borders  is  covered  with  the  palms 
and  the  splendid  foliage  of  the  tropics,  while,  in  the  other,  the  last 
buds  of  arctic  vegetation  expire.  The  area  of  this  great  plain 
is  estimated  at  3,240,000  square  miles. 

Very  little  information  is  possessed  of  the  most  northern 
regions  of  America.  Although  Hearne,  Mackenzie,  Franklin, 
and  Back,  have  penetrated  to  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea, 
although  the  voyages  of  Captains  Parry  and  Beechy  have  extend- 
ed along  the  greatest  part  of  the  coast  between  the  eastern  and 
western  seas,  although  the  European  missionaries  have  long 
resided  among  the  inhabitants  of  Greenland,  yet  no  satisfactory 
conclusions  can  yet  be  formed  of  the  extent  of  the  American 
continent  to  the  north,  or  of  the  natural  peculiarities  by  which 
it  is  distinguished. 

It  was  formerly  believed,  on  the  authority  of  Buffon,  that  the 
animals  of  America  were  inferior  in  size  to  those  of  the  Eastern 
Continent.  The  researches  of  modern  naturalists  have  not  only 
refuted  this  error,  but  have  established  the  fact,  that  where  any 
difference  of  size  exists  in  animals  of  the  same  class,  the  superi- 
ority in  most  cases  is  on  the  American  side.  The  animal 
kingdom  of  North  America  embraces  a  considerable  variety  of 
species,  some  of  which  are  not  found  in  other  parts  of  the  world. 

Of  the  Bear  species,  those  peculiar  to  North  America,  are  the 
Grizzly,  Barren,  Ground,  and  Black  Bears.  The  great  Polar, 
or  White  Bear,  is  found  also  in  the  Arctic  regions  of  Europe  and 
Asia.  In  North  America,  it  inhabits  the  continent  as  far  south 
as  Labrador  and  Hudson's  Bay;  its  principal  residence  is  on 
fields  of  ice,  with  which  it  frequently  floats  a  great  distance  from 
land.  The  Grizzly  Bear,  the  most  powerful  and  dangerous 
animal  of  North  America,  inhabiting  both  sides  of  the  Rocky 

C*  29 


6^* 


28  NORTH   AMERICA. 

Mountains,  is,  when  full  grown,  reported  to  exceed  800  pounds 
in  weight,  and  its  strength  so  great,  that  it  has  been  known  to 
drag  to  a  considerable  distance  a  buffalo  weighing  1000  pounds. 
The  Barren  Ground  Bear  receives  its  name  from  the  circum- 
stance of  its  inhabiting  only  that  section  of  the  continent  called 
the  Barren  Lands,  or  grounds  situated  north  of  60° ;  this  is  a 
formidable  animal,  and  is  much  dreaded  by  the  Indians.  It 
frequents  the  sea  coast  in  autumn  in  considerable  numbers,  for 
the  purpose  of  feeding  on  fish.  In  size  it  is  between  the  Grizzly 
and  the  Black  Bear.  The  Black  Bear  of  North  America  is 
different  from  the  European  animal  of  the  same  name.  It  has  a 
milder  disposition,  and  lives  more  on  vegetables :  its  favourite 
food  is  the  different  kinds  of  berries,  and  it  will  not,  except  from 
necessity,  subsist  on  animal  substances. 

Of  the  Deer  kind,  there  are  several  species  not  found  in  the 
old  continent.  The  Moose  Deer  resembles  the  Elk  of  Europe, 
but  is  of  a  different  species ;  it  is  the  largest  of  the  Deer  kind 
found  in  America,  and  perhaps  in  the  world,  being  in  height  to 
the  shoulder  full  six  feet,  and  weighs,  when  full  grown,  from  1000 
to  1200  pounds.  The  Wapiti  or  American  Elk,  is  second  in 
size  only  to  the  Moose,  and  formerly  ranged  over  all  the  middle 
parts  of  the  continent :  it  is  now  found  only  in  the  remote  western 
districts  of  the  United  States  and  Canada,  and  also  west  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  The  Indians  make  bows  of  the  perfect  horn, 
which  are  highly  serviceable  from  their  elasticity ;  and  from 
their  skins  they  prepare  various  articles  of  dress,  and  apply  them 
also  to  other  purposes.  The  Caribou,  or  American  Reindeer,  is 
a  different  species  from  the  Reindeer  of  the  old  continent ;  it  is 
found  in  all  the  high  northern  latitutes  of  North  America,  and 
has  never  been  domesticated  or  used  as  a  beast  of  draught  by 
the  natives,  being  considered  only  as  game.  There  are  two 
species,  the  Woodland  and  the  Barren  Ground  Caribou.  The 
Virginia  Deer  is  one  of  the  most  elegant  of  the  animals  of  its 
class ;  it  lives  in  large  herds,  and  is  found  over  a  considerable 
portion  of  North  America ;  it  is  said  to  display  great  enmity  to 
the  rattlesnake,  which  it  contrives  to  crush  by  leaping  with  its 
fore  feet  conjoined  and  dropping  perpendicularly  on  the  serpent, 
bounding  away  with  great  lightness,  and  repeating  this  attack 
until  his  enemy  is  destroyed. 

One  species  of  Antelope,  the  prong-horned,  is  peculiar  to 
America ;  it  is  a  graceful  and  fleet  animal,  so  swift  that  it  seems 
rather  to  fly  than  leap  from  rock  to  rock  in  the  rugged  regions 
which  it  inhabits ;  they  live  in  small  families,  and  are  found  in 
the  vast  plain  of  the  Missouri  and  Saskatchawan,  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 


NORTH    AMERICA.  29 

The  American  Bison,  or  Buffalo,  once  common  in  the  United 
States,  has  gradually  disappeared  before  the  white  population  ;  it 
now  only  exists  to  the  west  of  the  Mississippi,  and  roams  over 
the  vast  grassy  plains  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Rocky  Mountains ; 
here  it  is  found  in  immense  herds,  amounting,  it  is  said,  often- 
times to  from  5000  to  10,000  head  ;  the  flesh  is  tender  and  juicy, 
and  the  tongue  and  hump,  or  wig,  are,  in  particular,  esteemed 
great  delicacies. 

The  Musk  Ox  derives  its  name  from  its  flesh ;  when  in  a  lean 
state,  smelling  strongly  of  that  substance.  It  is  truly  an  Arctic 
animal, being  found  only  in  the  barren  lands  beyond  the  Great 
Slave  Lake,  and  as  far  north  as  Melville  Island,  in  75°.  In  size 
the  Musk  Ox  is  small ;  the  carcase,  when  cleaned,  not  weighing 
more  than  three  hundred  weight ;  it  assembles  in  herds,  and  flees 
at  the  sight  of  man ;  it  is  much  hunted,  both  by  the  Indians  and 
Esquimaux. 

Herds  of  wild  Horses  roam  over  the  great  plains  on  both  sides 
of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  are  the  offspring  of  the  European 
animal,  imported  soon  after  the  first  settlement  of  the  country. 
They  are  found  from  Texas  to  the  plains  of  the  Saskatchawan, 
and  are  of  great  importance  to  the  Nomadic  Tribes,  who  train 
them  not  only  for  transporting  their  tents  and  families  from  place 
to  place,  but  also  for  the  purposes  of  war,  the  chase,  and  of  food ; 
the  flesh  of  the  horse  being  thus  mostly  used  by  the  Spokains 
and  several  other  tribes,  and  likewise  at  times  by  the  residents 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  posts  on  the  Columbia  River 
and  its  branches. 

Of  the  Cat  kind,  this  continent  contains  several  species,  all 
equally  remarkable,  like  their  congeners  of  the  old  world,  for  the 
beauty  and  diversity  of  their  colour,  and  the  treachery  of  their 
disposition.  The  cougar,  or  puma,  called  also  the  panther,  is 
the  largest  and  most  formidable  of  its  class  found  in  North 
America;  it  is  about  one-third  less  than  the  lion,  and  of  sufficient 
strength  to  carry  a  man  up  a  tree ;  though  now  rare  in  the  more 
settled  parts  of  the  continent,  it  is  occasionally  met  with  in  the 
remote  districts  of  the  United  States.  It  preys  upon  calves, 
sheep,  &c,  but  has  also  been  known  to  attack  man.  The 
jaguar,  an  animal  resembling  the  panther,  is  found,  though 
rarely,  in  Mexico ;  also  the  ocelet  and  tiger-cat. 

The  Rocky  Mountain  sheep  and  goat  inhabit  the  same  range 
of  mountains  from  which  they  derive  their  name ;  the  latter  is 
about  the  size  of  the  domestic  sheep,  its  fleece  hanging  down  on 
both  sides  like  that  of  the  merino  breed :  the  hair  is  long  and 
straight,  coarser  than  that  of  the  sheep,  but  finer  than  that  of 
the  domestic  goat ;  the  Rocky  Mountain  sheep  is  larger  than  any 

3*  31 


30  NORTH    AMERICA. 

domestic  sheep ;  the  horns  of  the  ram  are  immense,  in  some  of 
the  old  ones,  so  much  so  as  to  prevent  the  animal's  feeding  on 
level  ground.  They  collect  in  flocks  of  from  three  to  thirty,  the 
young  rams  and  females  herding  together,  while  the  old  rams 
form  separate  flocks. 

The  principal  fur-bearing  animals  of  North  America  are  the 
beaver,  muskrat,  pine-marten,  pekan,  the  Canada  lynx,  raccoon 
and  ermine.  These  animals  are  diligently  hunted,  both  by 
Indians  and  the  inhabitants  of  those  settled  parts  of  the  continent 
in  which  any  of  them  are  yet  found  ;  their  skins  make  an 
important  item  of  export  to  Europe,  particularly  from  Canada  ; 
some  of  these  animals  are  evidently  decreasing  with  great  rapidity. 
The  well-known  beaver  is  now  almost  exclusively  confined  to 
Canada  and  the  north-west  districts  of  America  ;  even  here,  how- 
ever, their  numbers  are  daily  diminishing.  The  sea-otter  also 
furnishes  a  large  amount  of  valuable  furs,  principally  to  the 
Russians  on  the  north-west  coast. 

The  dog  kind  exhibits  several  varieties  not  found  in  other 
parts  of  the  world  ;  of  these,  the  Newfoundland  dog  is  remark- 
able for  its  sagacity,  great  bulk  and  strength.  The  Esquimaux 
dog,  also  a  large  variety,  is  very  useful  to  the  Esquimaux  and 
the  traders  in  drawing  their  furs  and  baggage.  The  North 
American  dog  is  used  in  the  Hudson's  Bay  countries,  both  as  a 
beast  of  draught  and  in  the  chase,  and  also  for  food,  its  flesh 
being  esteemed  by  the  Canadian  voyagers  or  canoe-men  superior 
to  all  other. 

Foxes  and  wolves  abound  in  most  parts  of  the  central  and 
northern  regions  of  the  continent ;  of  the  former,  there  are  the 
arctic,  sooty,  cross,  black,  grey,  and  red  fox ;  of  the  latter,  the 
Mexican,  the  grey,  red,  black,  dusky,  and  barking,  or  prairie- 
wolf.  Of  the  opossum,  found  from  Pennsylvania  to  Brazil,  there 
are  several  species,  of  which  the  Virginia,  or  common  opossum, 
is  well  known  in  the  United  States;  also,  the  skunk,  marmots  of 
different  species,  squirrels,  hares,  and  a  great  variety  of  other 
smaller  animals. 

The  whale  species  are  numerous  on  the  northern  coasts ;  the 
most  useful  and  remarkable  are  the  common  and  spermaceti 
whale,  and  the  narvvhale  or  sea-unicorn.  The  common  seal 
frequents  the  sea  coasts  perhaps  throughout  the  world,  but  is  in 
North  America  most  numerous  in  high  northern  latitudes,  and  is 
of  the  greatest  use  to  the  Esquimaux  and  other  inhabitants  of 
those  frozen  regions,  furnishing  them  with  all  the  necessaries  of 
life;  they  are  of  various  kinds,  as  the  hooded,  harp,  fetid,  ursine, 
and  great  seal. 

Most  of  the  Birds  of  North  America,  and  especially  those  of 


NORTH  AMERICA. 


Bald  Eagle. 


Pinnated  Grouse. 


American  Widgeon. 


*«€Z\s 


American  Flamingo. 


Canvass-back  Duck. 


Canada  Goose 


NORTH  AMERICA. 


Tufted  Duck. 


Ruddy  Duck. 


Pied  Duck. 


American  Woodcock. 


Cock  of  the  Plaina 


Canadian  Grouse. 


NORTH    AMERICA.  31 

the  United  States,  are  now  rendered  as  familiar  to  the  European 
naturalist  as  those  of  his  own  country ;  for  they  have  been  more 
ably  and  more  fully  illustrated  than  those  of  any  other  part  of  the 
world.  Rapacious  birds  are  here  as  numerous  as  in  other  parts 
of  the  earth,  and  of  a  great  many  different  species,  including 
eagles,  vultures,  hawks,  falcons,  owls,  &c.  The  white-headed 
or  bald-headed  eagle  is  well  known  as  being  the  chosen  emblem 
of  our  own  republic.  It  is  common  to  both  continents  ;  but,  while 
it  seems  almost  entirely  confined  to  the  arctic  regions  of  the  old 
world,  it  abounds  in  the  milder  regions  of  the  United  States,  in 
the  new. 

The  vultures  are  the  great  Californian  vulture,  black  vulture, 
and  turkey-buzzard.  The  first  seems  to  be  confined  to  California 
and  the  adjoining  regions  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains :  they 
build  their  nests  in  the  most  secret  parts  of  the  pine  forests  :  they 
measure  from  four  to  four  and  a  half  feet  in  length.  Their 
food  is  carrion  or  dead  fish,  and  they  will  in  no  instance  attack 
any  living  animal,  unless  it  be  wounded  and  unable  to  walk. 

The  black  vulture  and  turkey-buzzard  are  both  well  known 
and  numerous  in  the  southern  States  of  our  Union,  where,  not- 
withstanding their  filthy  habits,  they  are  protected  by  law  and 
common  usage,  being  of  great  utility  in  devouring  putrid  animal 
matter  which  would  otherwise  be  highly  offensive  and  injurious. 

The  wild  turkey  is  peculiar  to  America  :  it  is  a  fine  large  bird, 
of  brilliant  blackish  plumage.  It  breeds  with  the  domestic  one  ; 
and  when  the  latter  is  reared  near  the  range  of  the  former,  it  is 
sure  to  be  enticed  into  the  woods  by  it. 

Of  the  duck  kind,  of  which  there  are  many  species,  the  best 
known  is  the  canvas-back.  It  is  peculiar  to  America,  and  is 
more  celebrated  than  any  other  for  the  excellent  flavour  of  its 
flesh :  they  are  found  mostly  in  Chesapeake  Bay  and  the  neigh- 
bouring rivers. 

Perhaps  the  most  characteristic  of  American  birds  is  the  hum- 
ming-bird, remarkable  alike  for  its  diminutive  size  and  the  bril- 
liant metallic  lustre  of  its  plumage :  they  are  most  numerous  in 
South  America,  but  are  found  in  the  northern  continent  as  far 
north  as  45°.  ^ 

Vast  flights  of  pigeons  migrate  periodically  to  different  parts 
of  the  continent,  frequently  extending  for  many  miles  on  each 
side,  darkening  the  entire  atmosphere,  and  often  requiring  four 
or  five  days  to  pass  over  a  particular  place. 

Of  the  birds  of  game,  the  principal  are  the  grouse,  pheasant, 
partridge,  &c.  The  species  of  grouse  are  more  numerous,  and 
entirely  distinct  from  those  of  Europe.  The  largest  and  most 
valuable  is  the  Cock  of  the  Plains.     Some  other  of  the  peculiar 


32  NORTH  AMERICA. 

American  birds  are  the  mocking-bird,  blue-jay,  and  whip-poor- 
will.  Parrots  and  Parroquets  abound  in  Mexico ;  and  in  the 
United  States  there  is  one  species  of  Parrot. 

The  seas,  lakes,  and  rivers  of  North  America,  swarm  with  a 
great  variety  of  delicious  fish.  The  cod,  so  well  known  in  com- 
merce, is  found  only  in  the  northern  seas.  The  mackerel  and 
alewife  fisheries,  along  the  coasts  of  the  United  States,  also  give 
employment  and  food  to  great  numbers  of  persons.  The  shad  is 
taken  in  large  quantities  in  all  the  rivers  of  the  Atlantic  States, 
and  in  the  proper  season  is  highly  esteemed. 

The  salmon  is  also  found  in  Canada  and  the  northern  rivers 
of  the  United  States,  on  both  sides  of  the  continent,  and  is  espe- 
cially plentiful  in  Columbia  River.  The  white-fish,  or  titameg 
of  the  traders,  is  caught  in  all  the  great  lakes  from  Canada  to 
the  Arctic  Ocean.  It  is  a  delicious  article  of  food  ;  and  as  many 
as  900  barrels  have  been  taken  at  a  single  fishery  on  Lake  Su- 
perior. 

The  Reptiles  of  America  are  numerous,  and,  like  the  gene- 
rality of  this  class  in  other  parts  of  the  world,  the  majority  are 
apparently  useless,  and  some  dangerous.  In  North  America, 
the  alligator  does  not  occur  north  of  the  Carolinas  and  the  Red 
River  of  Louisiana.  In  severe  winters,  he  buries  himself  in  the 
mud,  and  lies  in  a  torpid  state.  The  rattlesnake  is  peculiar  to 
the  New  World,  and  is  particularly  formidable  on  account  of  the 
deadly  venom  of  its  bite. 

The  Indians,  who  form  the  great  mass  of  the  aboriginal  inhab- 
itants of  America,  all  constitute,  by  their  natural  peculiarities  as 
well  as  by  their  languages,  a  distinct  and  original  people ;  and 
preserve,  throughout  this  vast  extent  of  country  and  variety  of 
climates,  the  same  essential  characteristics.  They  have  a  copper 
colour,  resembling  that  of  rusty  iron  or  cinnamon,  coarse,  straight, 
black  hair,  high  cheek-bones,  and  sunken  eyes :  it  has  been  af- 
firmed that  they  are  without  beards  ;  but  it  is  well  ascertained  that 
this  is  not  the  case  naturally,  but  that  most  of  them  take  great 
pains  to  pluck  them  out.  Almost  all  the  Indians  near  Mexico, 
and  those  on  the  north-west  coast,  wear  mustachios. 

The  American  Indians  are  generally  erect,  and  of  fine  forms, 
with  few  instances  of  decrepitude  or  deformity ;  they  have  cleaner 
limbs,  not  so  muscular,  and  with  less  tendency  to  corpulence  than 
the  whites.  As  a  race,  they  have  countenances  that  are  cheer- 
less, stern  and  ruminating.  Their  courage  is  moral  and  passive 
rather  than  active.  They  think  it  cowardice  to  be  affected  by 
calamity,  or  to  give  way  to  passion  or  feeling.  To  be  always 
ready  and  willing  to  die,  and  suffer  whatever  may  befall  them 
with  constancy,  is  their  idea  of  the  perfection  of  courage.   In  their 


NORTH  AMERICA 


Codfish. 


Shad. 


White  Fish  of  the  Lakes. 


Alligator. 


Rattlesnake. 


NORTH  AMERICA. 


Sioux  Chief  and  his  Son. 


Indian  Skin  Lodge. — Indian  Dog. 


The  Sioux,  Pawnees,  &c,  who  roam  over  the  great  western  prairies,  subsist  chiefly  on  the 
flesh  of  the  buffalo.  They  make  their  tents  or  lodges  of  a  frame-work  of  poles,  which  they 
cover  with  prepared  buffalo  skins;  and  nearly  all  their  clothing  is  made  of  the  same  material. 
Some  tribes  train  their    dogs  to  carry  burdens,  and  regard  the  flesh  of  that  animal  a  great 

delicacy. 


Indian  Woman  and  Child. — Wigwam,  or  Hut,  constructed  of  Birch  Bark. 

The  Chippeways,  Jllennomonies,  and  other  Indians,  who  inhabit  regions  abounding  in  birch 
forests,  make  their  wigwams  and  canoes  of  birch  bark — in  the  construction  of  the  latter  thes 
often  display  considerable  skill. 


Indian  Birch  Bark  Canoe. 


NORTH  AMERICA. 


33 


resentments,  they  are  implacable,  and  never  forgive  an  injury ; 
at  the  same  time,  they  are  often  faithful  in  their  friendships,  and 
hospitable  and  generous. 

Since  the  introduction  of  the  horse  by  Europeans,  many  of 
the  Indian  tribes  have  acquired  an  astonishing  degree  of  skill  in 
the  management  of  that  noble  animal ;  among  these  are  the 
Pawnees,  the  Comanches,  the  Sioux,  the  Apaches,  Shoshonees, 
Enneshoors,  and  other  tribes :  some  of  these  have  also  borrowed 
the  use  of  fire-arms  from  their  European  neighbours,  but  in 
general  they  have  rejected  the  arts  of  peace  and  civilization. 

Perhaps  there  is  no  tribe  among  the  American  Indians  so 
degraded  that  it  has  not  some  notion  of  a  higher  power  than 
man,  and  in  general  they  seem  to  have  entertained  the  idea  of  a 
Great  Spirit  as  a  master  of  life,  in  short,  a  Creator,  and  of  an 
Evil  Spirit,  holding  divided  empire  with  him  over  nature  ;  many 
of  them  have  priests,  prophets,  and  sorcerers,  in  whose  superna- 
tural powers  they  trust;  and  most,  if  not  all,  appear  to  believe 
in  a  future  state. 

Many  attempts  have  been  made,  at  different  times,  by  benevolent 
persons  to  convert  the  aboriginal  tribes  to  the  Christian  religion, 
to  teach  them  the  arts  of  peace  and  civilized  life,  and  to  train 
them  to  habits  of  industry ;  but  so  little  has  been  the  effect  of 
those  efforts,  that  many  do  not  hesitate  to  pronounce  it  impos- 
sible to  engraft  the  European  civilization  on  the  Indian  charac- 
ter. Some  exceptions,  however,  to  this  general  failure  of  the 
attempts  to  effect  the  civilization  of  the  Indians  occur  in  the 
United  States,  where  the  Cherokees  and  other  tribes  hold  pro- 
perty, cultivate  the  ground,  and  practise  the  useful  arts. 

North  America  is  politically  divided  into  the  Republics  of  the 
United  States,  Texas,  Mexico,  and  Guatimala,  which  occupy  the 
central  and  southern  parts  of  the  continent.  The  northern,  the 
eastern,  and  central  parts,  contain  the  possessions  of  Great  Bri- 
tain ;  and  the  extreme  north-western  section,  those  claimed  by 
Russia.  The  following  estimates  of  the  areas  in  square  miles, 
and  population  of  the  respective  divisions  at  the  present  time,  is 
probably  as  near  an  approximation  to  the  truth  as  circumstances 
will  permit : 


Russian  America. 

Greenland 

British  America. . 
United  States 

Texas 

Mexico 

Guatimala 

West  Indies 


Total. 


Square  miles. 

Population. 

500,000 

50,000 

840,000 

20,000 

2,310,000 

1,360,000 

2,300,000 

17,000,000 

200,000 

250,000 

1,500,000 

8,000,000 

200,000 

2,000,000 

100,000 

2,970,000 

7,950,000 

31,650,000 

34  NORTH  AMERICA. 

Of  the  population,  the  white  inhabitants  are  supposed  to  amount 
to  16  millions  900  thousand;  the  aborigines,  or  Indians,  to  4^ 
millions ;  and  10  millions  400  thousand  are  of  the  negro  and 
mixed  races. 

Total,  thirty-one  millions  six  hundred  and  fifty  thousand. 


RUSSIAN  AMERICA. 

That  part  of  North  America  claimed  by  Russia,  is  a  territory 
of  considerable  extent,  and  comprises  the  north-western  portion 
of  the  continent,  being  that  part  of  it  adjacent  to  Asia ;  it  is 
bounded  north  by  the  Arctic  Ocean,  east  by  the  British  pos- 
sessions, from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  141°  of  longitude 
west  from  Greenwich ;  south  by  the  Pacific  Ocean  and  the  Oregon 
Territory ;  west  by  Bhering's  Strait  and  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

The  coast  seems  to  be  chiefly  alpine,  in  some  parts  rising  into 
snow-capped  summits ;  the  most  remarkable  mountain  is  St. 
Elias,  which  is  said  to  be  visible  50  leagues  from  the  coast.  In 
this  region  there  are  computed  to  be  1000  white  inhabitants,  who 
are  mostly  traders  ;  the  savages  are  estimated  at  near  50,000  ; 
they  barter  the  furs  obtained  in  hunting,  with  the  Russians,  for 
fire-arms,  beads,  tobacco,  and  other  articles.  The  Russians  have 
a  number  of  factories,  or  trading  establishments,  on  various  parts 
of  the  coast :  the  principal  of  these  are  Sitcha,  or  New  Archangel, 
Kodiak,  and  Oonalaska. 

The  Aleutian  Islands  may  be  considered  as  belonging  to  this 
region ;  they  form  a  long  and  numerous  group,  extending  west- 
ward from  the  Peninsula  of  Alaska  to  Kamtschatka.  These 
islands  are  inhabited  by  a  race  of  savages,  who  are  mild  in  their 
manners  and  deportment,  and  display  a  considerable  degree  of 
industry  and  ingenuity  :  they  dwell  in  large  subterranean  man- 
sions, or  rather  villages,  partitioned  into  numerous  apartments, 
and  containing  from  50  to  100,  or  even  150  inhabitants.  These 
abodes,  covered  with  turf,  are  almost  on  a  level  with  the  sur- 
rounding country,  from  which  they  are  scarcely  to  be  dis- 
tinguished. 

Sitcha,  or  New  Archangel,  on  one  of  the  islands  belonging  to 
the  Archipelago  of  George  III.,  may  be  considered  the  capital  of 
the  territories  of  Russia  on  this  continent ;  it  is  a  village  of  about 
1000  inhabitants,  the  houses  of  which,  including  the  fortifications 
and  public  buildings,  are  built  of  wood,  and  are  neat  and  well 
kept. 


RUSSIAN   AMERICA. 


Subterranean  House  of  the  Aleutian  Islanders. 


American  Indians 

of  the  North-West 

coast. 


Man  of  Prince  William's  Sound. 


Woman  of  Prince  William's  Sound. 


NORTH   AMERICA. 


Greenlander  in  his  canoe  killing  a  Seal. 


Esquimaux  and  Sledge. 


Greenland  Seal. 


42 


NORTH  AMERICA.  35 


GREENLAND. 


Greenland,  long  supposed  to  be  a  part  of  the  Continent  of 
North  America,  until  Captain  Parry  ascertained  its  complete 
disjunction,  is  one  of  the  most  desolate  and  barren  regions  on  the 
face  of  the  earth.  An  almost  perpetual  winter  prevails,  inter- 
rupted only  by  a  short  summer  of  a  few  weeks'  duration. 

From  Cape  Farewell,  in  latitude  60°,  it  stretches  northward 
for  1300  miles,  with  an  indefinite  extent  beyond:  at  latitude  78°, 
it  has  a  breadth  of  not  less  than  900  miles,  which,  narrowing  to 
the  southward,  is,  on  reaching  the  arctic  circle,  reduced  to  about 
400. 

Greenland  is  claimed  by  Denmark,  and  is  often  called  Danish 
America :  its  coasts  are  resorted  to  in  summer  by  whalers  and 
seal-catchers.  The  inhabitants,  called  Karalits,  are  an  Esquimaux 
tribe ;  they  are  very  ignorant  and  degraded,  and  seem  to  be 
reduced  to  the  lowest  degree  of  barbarism,  living  on  fish  and 
blubber,  and  clad  in  seal-skins,  having  no  domestic  animals,  and 
displaying  no  art  or  skill  except  in  the  construction  and  manage- 
ment of  their  frail  canoes. 

Some  small  settlements  have  been  formed  along  the  western 
coast,  several  of  which  are  also  Missionary  stations,  where  a  few 
of  the  inhabitants  have  been  in  some  measure  converted  from 
their  ignorance  and  superstition,  and  partially  instructed  in  the 
doctrines  of  Christianity. 

In  the  northern  part  of  this  region,  Captain  Ross  discovered  a 
district  which  he  named  the  Arctic  Highlands.  The  inhabitants, 
who  had  never  before  seen  an  European,  were  seized  with  the 
utmost  astonishment,  especially  at  the  ships,  which  they  at  first 
imagined  to  be  huge  birds  with  wings.  They  were  found  to 
differ  from  the  other  Esquimaux  in  being  destitute  of  boats ;  for 
though  much  of  their  food  is  drawn  from  the  sea,  they  obtain  it 
by  merely  walking  over  the  frozen  surface. 

They  have  the  advantage,  however,  of  possessing  iron,  from 
which  they  frame  instruments  much  more  powerful  than  those 
made  of  bone  by  others  of  their  race.  They  differ  greatly  from 
them  also  in  having  a  king,  who  is  beloved,  and  to  whom  they 
pay  a  tribute  of  seals,  train-oil,  and  fish.  The  cliffs  on  their 
coast  present  the  remarkable  phenomenon  of  red  snow,  the  nature 
and  origin  of  which  have  excited  much  controversy  among  the 
learned  in  Europe. 


36  NORTH  AMERICA 

BRITISH    AMERICA. 

The  possessions  of  Great  Britain  in  North  America  are  an 
assemblage  of  vast  ill-defined  and  straggling  territories,  the  rem- 
nant of  that  mighty  empire  of  Which  the  great  revolution  deprived 
her.  Even  in  their  present  dismembered  state,  however,  their 
extent  and  capabilities  might,  and  probably  will,  enable  them,  one 
day,  to  equal  some  of  the  greatest  of  the  now  existing  European 
monarchies. 

This  country,  taken  in  its  full  extent,  is  bounded  north  by  the 
Arctic  Sea,  east  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean  and  Baffin's  Bay,  south 
by  the  United  States  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  and  west  by  the 
American  possessions  of  Russia.  Its  area  is  equal  to  about  that 
of  the  United  States.  About  one-tenth  part  only  of  this  vast 
territory  is  as  yet  settled  by  a  civilized  population. 

The  company  which  enjoys  the  exclusive  trade  of  Hudson's 
Bay,  maintains  several  forts  on  its  western  shore ;  they  have  also 
small  forts  on  the  leading  lakes  and  rivers  of  the  interior,  called 
houses,  where  they  are  secure  against  the  attack  of  the  Indians 
scattered  over  the  expanse  of  these  desolate  wilds,  and  can  form 
a  store  of  the  articles  necessary  for  the  fur  trade.  Beyond  this 
occupancy  they  have  not  attempted  to  exercise  any  jurisdiction. 

The  climate  is  very  severe,  much  exceeding  what  is  felt  under 
the  same  latitude  in  the  old  continent.  Lower  Canada  for  six, 
and  Upper  Canada  for  five  months  in  the  year,  have  a  mean 
temperature  below  the  freezing  point,  and  are  buried  in  perpetual 
snow ;  yet,  after  that  period,  the  heat  of  the  sun  becomes  so 
powerful,  that  large  crops  of  the  most  valuable  grain  can  be 
raised  on  the  great  extent  of  fertile  land  of  which  the  territory 
consists. 

Upper  Canada  is  finely  watered,  clad  with  immense  forests  of 
valuable  timber,  and  contains  about  ten  millions  of  acres  capable 
of  culture.  Nova  Scotia  and  New  Brunswick  are  well  wooded 
countries,  but  less  fertile  ;  and  though  the  winters  are  less  severe, 
the  heavy  fogs  that  prevail  for  a  great  part  of  the  year,  are  still 
more  disagreeable  than  the  frosts  and  snows  of  Canada. 

The  river  St.  Lawrence  is  the  principal  feature  of  this  region, 
and  one  of  the  noblest  river  channels  in  the  world.  It  is  difficult 
to  say  where  it  begins.  It  has  been  held  to  issue  from  Lake 
Superior,  a  vast  body  of  water,  fed  by  about  fifty  streams,  of 
which  the  St.  Louis  and  Grand  Portage  Rivers  are  the  principal ; 
but,  in  fact,  the  lakes  are  merely  connected  by  short  canals, 
through  which  the  surplus  waters  of  one  are  poured  into  the  other. 
These  canals  bear  the  local  names  of  St.  Mary,  St.  Clair,  De- 
troit, Niagara,  &c. 


NORTH    AMERICA.  37 

The  last  is  distinguished  by  its  falls,  the  most  magnificent  in 
the  world.  From  Lake  Ontario  to  Montreal,  the  river  is  broken 
by  a  succession  of  rocks,  cataracts,  and  rapids,  which  render 
navigation  very  dangerous.  It  is  after  passing  Montreal  that  it 
rolls  in  full  grandeur  in  a  deep  continuous  channel,  conveying 
large  ships  and  rafts  down  to  Quebec.  The  navigation  is  blocked 
up  for  half  the  year  by  the  ice,  which  even  in  spring  encumbers 
it  for  some  weeks  with  floating  fragments. 

The  other  rivers  of  Lower  Canada  are  its  tributaries.  On  the 
north  are  the  Utawas  and  the  Saguenay,  large  navigable  rivers, 
flowing  through  a  region  little  known :  the  former  is  supposed  to 
have  a  course  of  about  600  miles,  but  its  navigation  is  much 
interrupted  by  rapids  ;  the  latter  is  remarkable  for  its  great  depth 
and  width,  and  is  navigable  for  90  miles  to  its  falls ;  for  the  dis- 
tance of  about  50  miles  it  has  the  appearance  of  a  long  mountain 
lake.  The  St.  Maurice  is  also  a  considerable  stream  from  the 
north,  and  the  Montmorency,  which  falls  into  the  St.  Lawrence, 
is  celebrated  for  its  beautiful  cataract,  which  pours  a  large 
volume  of  water  over  a  precipitous  ledge.  On  the  south  are  the 
St.  Francis  ;  the  Chaudiere,  with  a  fine  cascade  rushing  down  a 
precipice  100  feet  in  height;  and  the  Sorelle  or  Richelieu,  the 
outlet  of  Lake  Champlain. 

The  Thames,  flowing  into  Lake  St.  Clair,  and  the  Grand,  are 
the  principal  rivers  of  Upper  Canada.  The  St.  John,  which  rises 
in  Maine,  is  navigable  80  miles  by  sea  vessels,  but  its  course  is 
much  broken  by  falls  and  rapids.  The  Miramichi  is  the  other 
principal  river  of  New  Brunswick. 

Lakes,  in  Canada,  are  on  a  greater  scale  than  in  any  other 
part  of  the  world ;  and  the  united  chain  forms  a  vast  inland  sea 
of  fresh  water.  The  largest  of  these,  and  the  largest  fresh-water 
lake  in  the  world,  is  Lake  Superior,  which  is  480  miles  in 
length  by  120  in  breadth;  having  a  circuit  of  1500  miles,  and 
covering  an  area  of  35,000  square  miles.  It  discharges  its 
waters  through  the  river  or  strait  of  St.  Mary,  50  miles  long,  into 
Lake  Huron,  which  likewise  receives  those  of  Lake  Michigan. 

Lake  Huron  is  280  miles  in  length,  and  90  in  breadth,  exclu- 
sive of  the  large  bay  on  the  north-eastern  shore,  called  Georgian 
Bay,  or  Lake  Manitouline,  which  is  about  80  miles  by  50.  An 
outlet,  called  the  river  St.  Clair,  expands,  after  a  course  of  40 
miles,  into  a  lake  of  the  same  name,  28  miles  in  length,  and  24 
in  breadth,  which  again  contracts,  and  enters  Lake  Erie  under 
the  name  of  the  river  Detroit,  25  miles  in  length.  Lake  Erie, 
the  next  link  in  this  great  chain,  is  270  miles  in  length,  by  from 
25  to  50  in  breadth.  The  river  Niagara,  36  miles  long,  carries 
its  surplus  water  over  a  perpendicular  precipice  165  feet  high, 

4  45 


38  NORTH    AMERICA. 

into  Lake  Ontario,  which  is  about  190  miles  in  length,  by  40  in 
breadth.  The  waters  of  these  lakes  are  clear  and  potable,  and 
they  abound  with  fish,  among  which  are  trout,  weighing  from  75 
to  100  pounds,  sturgeon,  white  fish,  pike,  bass,  &c.  They  are 
navigable  by  large  vessels,  and  a  great  number  of  steamboats 
navigate  their  waters.  Far  in  the  interior,  there  are  a  great 
number  of  lakes,  of  which  the  Lake  of  the  Woods,  Lake  Winni- 
peg, Lake  Athabasca,  and  the  Great  Slave  and  Great  Bear 
Lakes,  are  the  principal.  Less  than  one-tenth  part  of  British 
America  is  as  yet  settled  by  a  civilized  population.  The  inland 
districts  are  very  thinly  peopled  by  a  number  of  small  Indian 
tribes,  who  rather  roam  from  place  to  place,  than  occupy  any 
stationary  tract.  They  live  by  hunting  and  fishing,  and  present 
a  degraded  picture  of  humanity.  The  eastern  and  northern 
coasts,  from  Labrador  to  Behring's  straits,  are  inhabited  by  va- 
rious tribes  of  Esquimaux,  who  carry  on  constant  warfare  with 
the  Indians  in  their  vicinity. 

The  principal  divisions  of  British  America  are  New  Britain, 
with  the  provinces  of  Canada,  (lately  Upper  and  Lower  Canada,) 
New  Brunswick,  Nova  Scotia,  Prince  Edward's  Island,  and 
Newfoundland. 

The  constitution  of  government  for  the  provinces  has  been 
modelled  on  that  of  the  mother  country.  Each  province  has  a 
governor  and  a  legislative  council  appointed  by  the  crown,  and  a 
house  of  commons  or  representatives  chosen  by  the  inhabitants, 
upon  moderate  qualifications.  In  1840  an  act  was  passed  by  the 
British  Parliament,  which  received  the  royal  sanction  July  3d, 
by  which  the  two  provinces  of  Upper  and  Lower  Canada  are 
united  under  one  government.  The  governor  of  Canada  is  also 
governor-general,  vice-admiral,  and  captain-general  of  all  the 
British  possessions  in  North  America.  Kingston,  on  Lake 
Ontario,  has  been  chosen  as  the  capital  of  the  United  Provinces. 
In  Lower  Canada,  trial  by  jury  is  universal  in  criminal  cases, 
but  a  very  small  proportion  of  the  civil  cases  are  tried  in  this 
manner.  Law  proceedings  are  in  French  and  English,  and  it  is 
not  unusual  to  have  half  the  jury  English  and  the  other  half 
French.  In  Upper  Canada,  the  laws  are  wholly  English,  as  is 
also  the  case  in  the  other  provinces. 

Canada  has  a  very  fertile  soil,  especially  in  its  upper  colony  ; 
and  though  it  be  free  from  snow  only  during  the  five  months  of 
the  year,  the  heat  of  that  period  is  sufficient  to  ripen  the  most 
valuable  kinds  of  grain.  The  vast  uncleared  tracts  are  covered 
with  excellent  timber. 

Nova  Scotia  and  New  Brunswick  are  ■  less  fertile,  yet  they 
contain  much  good  land,  and  are  well  timbered.     Newfoundland 


NORTH   AMERICA.  39 

has  on  its  shores  the  most  valuable  cod-fishery  in  the  world. 
Even  the  immense  northern  wastes  are  covered  with  a  variety 
of  animals,  noted  for  their  rich  and  beautiful  furs,  which  form  the 
foundation  of  an  extensive  and  valuable  trade. 

The  commerce  of  British  America  is  of  vast  importance :  the 
fur  trade,  the  original  object  for  opening  an  intercourse  with  this 
part  of  the  world,  was  carried  on  in  the  first  place,  chiefly  from 
the  shores  of  Hudson's  Bay ;  but  it  was  there  injudiciously 
placed  in  the  hands  of  an  exclusive  company,  which  greatly 
diminished  its  activity. 

Upwards  of  forty  years  ago  some  enterprising  merchants  of 
Montreal  established  the  North-west  Company,  who,  employing 
numerous  and  active  agents,  carried  on  their  business  with  spirit 
and  enterprise.  The  eager  rivalry  of  the  two  companies,  gave 
birth  to  many  deeds  of  fraud  and  violence :  within  these  few 
years,  however,  an  union  has  healed  the  deadly  enmity  between 
them,  and,  by  acting  in  concert,  they  have  determined  to  diminish 
the  issue  of  ardent  spirits,  and  even  to  adopt  every  practical 
means  for  the  moral  and  religious  improvement  of  the  Indians. 
The  furs  exported  from  Quebec  amount  annually  to  about 
81,000,000.  in  value. 

The  timber  trade,  the  value  of  which,  thirty  years  ago,  did  not 
exceed  $150,000,  has  now  surpassed  all  others  in  magnitude. 
The  Canada  merchants  lately  estimated  the  capital  invested  in 
this  business,  at  $6,000,000.  It  is  also  carried  on  to  a  great 
extent  from  Nova  Scotia,  New  Brunswick,  and  even  Cape 
Breton. 

The  number  of  vessels  employed  between  England  and  her 
American  colonies,  averages  about  1600  inwards,  and  the  same 
number  outwards :  tonnage,  430,000  tons.  The  value  of  the 
imports  is  about  $11,000,000,  and  the  exports  about  half  that 
amount. 

To  the  West  Indies  the  colonies  export,  of  their  timber  and 
agricultural  staples,  to  a  considerable  amount,  and  receive  in 
return  the  well-known  produce  of  these  Islands ;  and  with  the 
United  States  Canada  holds  a  great  intercourse  across  Lake 
Champlain,  sending  mostly  salt  and  peltries  ;  and  in  return  taking 
chiefly  tea,  tobacco,  and  other  luxuries,  clandestinely,  which  the 
strict  colonial  rules  would  require  her  to  receive  from  the  mother 
country. 

The  fishery  is  pursued  upon  these  shores,  to  an  extent  not 
surpassed  anywhere  else  upon  the  globe.  The  rich  supply  of 
cod  on  the  Newfoundland  banks  is  wholly  unparalleled  :  although 
all  the  nations  of  Europe  have  been  lading  cargoes  of  fish  for 
centuries,  no  sensible  diminution  of  them  has  been  felt.     The 


40  NORTH   AMERICA. 

English  employ  about  40,000  tons  of  shipping,  and  3000  men  in 
this  fishery  :  in  1831,  they  exported  in  fish,  oil,  and  seal-skins,  to 
the  amount  of  $4,000,000 ;  and  the  Americans  and  French,  in 
the  same  year,  exported,  the  latter  to  upwards  of  $1,200,000  in 
value,  and  the  former  to  the  amount  of  $2,000,000. 

The  interior  communications  of  Canada,  are  almost  solely  by 
the  river  St.  Lawrence  and  the  lakes,  which  open  a  very  exten- 
sive navigation  into  the  country.  It  is  seriously  obstructed,  how- 
ever, between  Montreal  and  Lake  Ontario,  where  a  series  of 
rapids  occur,  over  which  only  canoes  can  shoot,  and  all  heavy 
goods  must  be  landed  and  shipped.  Great  exertions  have  been 
made  to  improve,  by  canals,  the  interior  communications  of 
Canada.  The  principal  work  is  the  Rideau  canal,  reaching  from 
the  Utawas  river  to  Kingston.  It  is  135  miles  long,  connecting 
together  a  chain  of  lakes,  which  admit  of  steam  navigation;  and 
the  dimensions  are  such  as  to  allow  vessels  of  from  100  to  125 
tons  to  pass.  The  enterprise  of  private  individuals  has  con- 
structed the  Welland  canal ;  which  unites  the  lakes_  Ontario  and 
Erie.  It  is  42  miles  long,  and  is  more  capacious  than  the  New 
York  canal:  it  will  allow  vessels  of  125  tons  to  pass  through. 
The  Chambly  canal  opens  a  navigation  by  the  Sorelle  river, 
from  Lake  Champlain  to  the  St.  Lawrence. 

Area  in  square  miles.  Population. 

New  Britain 1,900,000  40,000 

Upper  Canada 140,000   360,000 

Lower  Canada 237,000   555,000 

New  Brunswick 27,000    100,000 

Nova  Scotia,  with  Cape  Breton. .        18,900   190,000 

Prince  Edward's  Island 2,100   35,000 

Newfoundland 35,000   80,000 


Total...., 2,360,000  1,360,000 


NEW    BRITAIN. 

New  Britain  is  that  large  portion  of  British  America  situated 
north  of  the  Canadas  and  the  United  States,  and  stretching 
northward  to  the  dreary  and  desolate  shores  of  the  Arctic  Sea. 
It  comprises  Labrador,  New  North  and  New  South  Wales, 
Prince  William's  Land,  Boothia  Felix,  lately  discovered  by  Cap- 
tain Ross,  and  the  North  Georgian  Islands.  Hudson's  Bay 
divides  the  country  into  two  great  divisions  :  on  the  east  is  La- 
brador and  East  Main,  and  on  the  west  New  North  and  New 
South  Wales. 


NORTH   AMERICA.  41 

The  face  of  the  country  is  generally  a  vast  plain,  intersected 
with  numerous  lakes  and  rivers,  some  of  which  flow  into  the 
unexplored  seas  of  the  north,  and  others  into  Hudson's  Bay : 
among  the  former  are  the  Mackenzie,  the  Copper  Mine,  and 
Great  Fish  River,  lately  explored  by  Captain  Back ;  and  into 
the  latter  the  principal  are  Churchill,  Nelson,  Severn,  and  Alba- 
ny Rivers. 

The  interior  streams  are  the  Saskatchawan,  Winnipeg,  and 
Red  River,  flowing  into  Lake  Winnipeg ;  and  the  Athabasca 
and  Peace  rivers,  emptying  into  Lake  Athabasca :  these  may 
properly  be  considei'ed  head  branches  of  the  Mackenzie,  as  their 
waters  finally  reach  the  ocean  through  its  channel. 

The  lakes  are  exceedingly  numerous  ;  some  are  extensive,  and 
second  only  to  the  great  Canadian  lakes.  Of  these,  Winnipeg 
Lake,  Athabasca  Lake,  Great  Slave,  and  Great  Bear  Lakes,  are 
the  principal.  They  are  situated  at  considerable  distances  apart, 
but  in  a  range,  lying  almost  north-west  from  each  other ;  and, 
their  waters  being  nearly  connected  by  various  navigable  streams, 
they  afford,  during  the  brief  period  of  summer,  an  extensive  and 
almost  continuous  canoe  navigation,  from  Lake  Superior  to  the 
Arctic  Ocean,  and  are  traversed  by  the  fur  traders,  in  their  long 
and  perilous  voyages. 

In  winter,  such  is  the  severity  of  the  climate  in  this  region, 
that  even  in  57°  the  lakes  freeze  eight  feet  thick ;  brandy  and 
mercury  congeal ;  the  rocks  sometimes  split  with  a  noise  like 
that  of  the  heaviest  artillery,  scattering  the  fragments  to  a  great 
distance.  The  temperature  is  capricious,  and  the  changes  sud- 
den. The  Aurora  Borealis  sheds  a  light  sometimes  equal  to 
that  of  the  full  moon.  The  vegetation  in  the  northern  parts  is 
very  scanty,  but  adjoining  the  northern  boundary  of  the  United 
States  there  are  some  fertile  spots  along  the  Red  River  of  Lake 
Winnipeg. 

The  only  trade  in  these  regions  is  that  of  furs ;  to  facilitate 
which,  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  have  established  forts  and 
trading-houses  in  various  quarters,  extending  from  Hudson's 
Bay  west  into  the  territories  claimed  by  the  United  States.  On 
the  shores  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  to  the  north,  almost  to  the 
Arctic  Sea,  from  these  forts,  &c,  agents  are  sent  amongst  the 
Indians  to  collect  furs,  in  exchange  for  such  European  commo- 
dities as  are  prized  by  them.  The  furs  exported  in  1832  from 
Hudson's  Bay,  amounted  to  the  value  of  $500,000. 

The  coasts  of  Labrador,  and  indeed  the  whole  of  the  northern 
parts  of  this  region,  from  Greenland  to  Bhering's  Strait,  is  inha- 
bited by  the  Esquimaux,  a  race  of  savages  who  sustain  exist- 
ence chiefly  by  feeding  on  whales  and  seals,  except  in  the  more 
southern  parts  of  Labrador :    of  the  skins  of  the  latter  they 

4  *  E  49 


42  NORTH    AMERICA. 

make  their  boats  and  clothes,  and  of  his  sinews  they  make 
thread. 

They  travel  over  the  snow  in  sledges  drawn  by  dogs,  of 
which  they  have  a  very  hardy  and  sagacious  breed,  which  will 
draw  a  considerable  load  60  miles  in  a  day.  The  complexion 
of  these  polar  men  has  little  of  the  copper  colour  of  the  other 
American  aborigines,  and  is  rather  of  a  dirty,  reddish  yellow. 
Their  summer  huts  are  circular,  covered  with  deer-skins,  and 
entered  by  creeping  on  the  hands  and  knees. 

They  make  their  winter  habitations  of  frozen  snow,  in  a  few 
hours,  exceedingly  comfortable,  and  which  remain  durable  till 
melted  by  the  heat  of  the  ensuing  summer.  Some  of  the  tribes 
have  canoes,  made  of  the  skin  of  the  sea-calf,  with  which  they 
sail  with  amazing  swiftness.  They  also  work  a  grey  and  porous 
stone  into  neat  pitchers  and  kettles,  and  those  in  the  vicinity  of 
Bhering's  Strait  display  great  ingenuity  in  the  manufacture  of 
trinkets  and  utensils  of  the  fossil  ivory,  with  which  some  parts 
of  those  regions  abound. 

They  are,  far  more  than  the  Indians,  a  social  and  domestic 
people.  This  is  apparent  in  their  good  treatment  to  females, 
and  their  care  and  affection  for  their  children.  Among  these 
people,  on  the  coast  of  Labrador,  the  Moravian  missionaries 
have  established  several  settlements;  Nain,  Okkak,  Hopedale, 
&c,  and  have,  besides  teaching  them  many  useful  things,  built 
a  magazine,  in  which  each  of  the  natives  might  deposit  his  use- 
less stores,  prevailing  on  them  to  set  apart  a  tenth  for  widows 
and  orphans.  This  is  the  true  way  to  convert  a  savage  people, 
by  showing  them  the  palpable  fruits  of  the  gospel. 

"  The  Indians  occupying  this  region  are  principally  the  Assini- 
boines,  Knisteneaux,  or  Crees,  Chippewayans,  Beaver,  Hare, 
Dog-rib,  Copper  Indians,  &c.  The  Assiniboines  are  a  tribe  of 
Sioux  ;  they  are  divided  into  several  smaller  tribes,  as  the  Black- 
foot,  Fall,  and  Blood  Indians,  &c.  They  rear  many  horses,  and 
subsist  chiefly  on  the  buffalo. 

Westward  from  Baffin's  Bay  are  an  extensive  range  of  islands, 
the  discoveries  chiefly  of  Captain  Parry.  These  appear  to  be 
entirely  detached  from  the  great  mass  of  the  American  Conti- 
nent, and  are  considered  by  some  geographers  as  forming  a 
separate  and  distinct  region.  The  chief  divisions  are  Prince 
William's  Land,  Boothia  Felix,  and  the  North  Georgian  Islands. 
Melville  Island,  the  most  westerly  of  the  latter,  upwards  of 
100  miles  both  in  length  and  breadth,  and  in  latitude  75°  N.,  is 
memorable  as  containing  the  spot  where  Captain  Parry  spent 
two  years,  and  braved  with  success  the  extremest  rigour  of  an 
arctic  winter. 


NORTH   AMERICA.  43 

No  inhabitants  were  found  here,  or  on  any  of  this  range  of 
islands.  The  only  animals  which  appeared  during  the  winter 
were  a  pack  of  hungry  wolves,  which  hovered  round  the  British 
vessels  in  hope  of  plunder ;  and  it  was  not  till  the  middle  of 
May  that  the  hunters  met  with  some  ptarmigans,  and  saw  the 
footsteps  of  deer.  Vegetable  productions  were  few  and  short- 
lived. 

A  succession  of  islands  extend  eastward  from  the  one  just 
described ;  only  the  southern  shores  of  which  were  seen  by 
Captain  Parry  as  he  sailed  along,  and  their  aspect  appears 
closely  to  resemble  Melville  Island.  They  are  separated  by 
Barrow's  Strait,  the  continuation  of  Sir  James  Lancaster's 
Sound,  from  the  regions  called  Boothia  Felix.  The  former,  situ- 
ated to  the  west  of  the  Gulf  of  Boothia,  was  discovered  by  Cap- 
tain Ross  in  his  late  adventurous  voyage,  1829,  '30,  '31,  and '32, 
and  is  supposed,  from  the  observations  of  Captain  Back,  to  be 
an  island,  and  not  a  part  of  the  continent,  as  at  first  conjectured ; 
it  is  much  broken  by  deep  inlets  and  rocky  islands,  encumbered 
with  ice  and  of  dangerous  navigation.  The  country  as  far  as 
72°  north  is  inhabited,  and  Captain  Ross  had  communication 
with  a  very  interesting  tribe  of  natives,  who  had  never  before 
seen  any  European. 


UPPER    CANADA. 


Upper  Canada,  commencing  at  Lake  St.  Francis,  above 
Montreal,  extends  along  the  whole  chain  of  the  great  lakes, 
almost  to  the  western  boundary  of  Lake  Superior.  Compara- 
tively but  a  small  part  of  this  province  is  settled,  and  many  por- 
tions of  it  are  yet  unexplored.  The  settlements  are  chiefly  along 
the  rivers  St.  Lawrence  and  Utawas,  and  lakes  Erie  and  Ontario. 
The  soil  is  in  general  excellent,  and  yields  abundant  crops  of 
grain,  wheat,  Indian-corn,  hops,  flax,  &c. 

The  climate  of  Upper  Canada  is  salubrious,  and  epidemic 
diseases  almost  unknown.  The  winters  are  shorter  and  less 
rigorous  than  in  the  lower  province :  the  spring  opens,  and  agri- 
cultural labours  commence  from  six  weeks  to  two  months  earlier 
than  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Quebec.  The  summer  heats  are 
also  more  moderate,  and  the  autumn  pleasant  and  favourable  for 
securing  the  produce  of  all  the  late  crops.  Population  is  advan- 
cing with  great  rapidity  :  it  has  hitherto  been  confined  to  the  St. 
Lawrence  and  the  shores  of  the  lakes,  but  is  now  becoming  more 
diffused  over  the  interior. 


44  NORTH  AMERICA. 

Kingston,  now  the  capital  of  Canada,  is  situated  on  the  north- 
ern shore  of  Lake  Ontario,  and  near  its  eastern  extremity.  It 
is  a  neat  little  town,  with  about  5000  inhabitants.  The  harbour 
is  commodious,  and  the  commerce  with  the  opposite  shores  of  the 
lake  is  very  considerable.  Toronto,  formerly  called  York,  is  on 
Lake  Ontario,  about  180  miles  nearly  west  of  Kingston;  it  has 
10,000  inhabitants;  and  was,  until  1840,  the  capital  of  Upper 
Canada.  Some  of  the  other  towns  on  Lake  Ontario  are  Coburg, 
Port  Hope,  and  Hamilton.  On  the  Niagara  River  are  the  vil- 
lages of  Niagara,  Queenstown,  and  Chippewa.  Sandwich,  in 
the  western  part  of  the  province,  and  opposite  to  Detroit,  is  a 
thriving  little  town ;  as  is  also  London,  on  the  Thames,  with  a 
population  of  2000  inhabitants. 

On  the  east  shore  of  Lake  Huron,  is  the  neat  and  flourishing 
town  of  Goderich,  with  a  good  harbour  at'  the  mouth  of  the 
Maitland  river ;  and  at  the  bottom  of  Lake  Manitouline,  or 
Georgian  Bay,  is  Penetanguishene,  a  British  naval  station,  from 
which  a  steamboat  runs  occasionally  to  St.  Joseph's  Island,  at 
the  west  end  of  the  lake,  on  which  is  kept  a  small  detachment  of 
British  troops. 

In  this  province  is  exhibited  one  of  the  most  sublime  and  mag- 
nificent of  nature's  works.  By  the  Niagara  river,  the  accumu- 
lated waters  flowing  from  four  great  lakes  and  all  their  tributaries, 
are  precipitated  over  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  the  mightiest  cataract 
in  the  world.  The  whole  mass  is  poured  into  one  tremendous 
plunge  of  165  feet  in  height. 

The  noise,  tumult,  and  rapidity  of  this  falling  sea ;  the  rolling 
clouds  of  foam,  the  vast  volumes  of  vapour  which  rise  into  the 
air,  the  brilliancy  and  variety  of  the  tints,  and  the  beautiful 
rainbows  which  span  the  abyss ;  the  lofty  banks  and  immense 
woods  which  surround  this  wonderful  scene,  have  been  consi- 
dered by  experienced  travellers  as  eclipsing  every  similar  pheno- 
menon. 

The  noise  is  heard,  and  the  cloud  of  vapours  seen,  at  the 
distance  of  several  miles.  The  fall  on  the  Canadian  side  is  630 
feet  wide,  of  a  semi-circular  form ;  that  on  the  American  side, 
only  310  feet,  and  165  feet  in  height,  being  six  or  seven  feet 
higher  than  the  former.  The  one,  called  the  Crescent  or  Horse- 
shoe Fall,  descends  in  a  mighty  sea-green  wave ;  the  other, 
broken  by  rocks  into  foam,  resembles  a  sheet  of  molten  silver. 
Travellers  descend  with  the  certainty  of  being  drenched  to  the 
skin,  but  without  danger,  to  the  foot  of  the  fall,  and  even  beneath 
it.  There  are  now  excellent  inns  on  both  sides  of  the  falls, 
which  are  crowded  with  visitants  during  the  summer  months. 


CANADA. 


Man  of  Nootka  Sound.       Woman  of  Nootka  Sound. 


Canadian  Indian  and  his  Squaw. 


Habitans,  or  French  Canadians. 


Canadian  Cariole. 


Rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 

These  rapids  commence  about  ten  miles  above  Montreal,  and  extend  nine  miles  fur- 
ther. The  river  is  confined  in  rocky  broken  channels,  amongst  which  the  water  dashes 
with  extreme  violence.  Timber  rafts  and  boats  are,  however,  guided  through  this  dan- 
gerous navigation  by  skilful  pilots. 

E*  » 


NORTH  AMERICA. 


View  of  the  City  of  Quebec. 


Falls  of  Monlmorenci. 

The  Falls  of  Montmorenci  are  seven  miles  below  Quebec.  They  are  formed  by  a 
small  river  which  runs  into  the  St.  Lawrence ;  the  stream  is  about  100  feet  wide,  and 
descends246  feet.  This  cataract  is  much  visited  ;  and,  though  less  imposing  than  some 
others,  is  still  a  beautiful  and  interesting  object. 


Codfishing  on  the  Banks  of  Newfoundland. 


Along  the  shores  of  Newfoundland,  codfishing  is  carried  on  in  open  boats,  contain- 
ing three  or  four  men  each.    On  the  banks,  at  a  distance  from  the  land,  vessels  manned 

by  twelve  or  fourteen  men  are  usually  employed. 

54 


NORTH   AMERICA.  45 


LOWER   CANADA. 

Lower  Canada  extends  along  the  river  St.  Lawrence,  on  both 
sides,  from  its  mouth  to  Lake  St.  Francis,  a  short  distance  above 
Montreal.  At  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Lawrence  the  country  is 
rugged  and  mountainous,  and  the  climate  very  severe ;  but  the 
upper  and  more  southerly  portions  of  the  province  are  well 
watered,  fertile,  and  with  a  milder  climate  than  the  lower  part. 
All  sections,  however,  have  the  winters  of  Sweden,  though  in  the 
latitude  of  France.  The  summers  are  warm  and  short,  and  the 
transition  from  winter  to  summer  is  very  rapid,  leaving  scarcely 
more  than  a  month  for  the  season  of  spring. 

More  than  three-fourths  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  country  are 
of  French  descent,  and  speak  the  French  language ;  they  are  all 
Catholics,  and  much  attached  to  their  priests :  the  remainder  are 
mostly  natives  of  Great  Britain  and  their  descendants.  Educa- 
tion is  much  neglected,  and  the  mass  of  the  people  is  very  igno- 
rant and  illiterate. 

The  native  French  Canadians  are  called  habitans.  They  are 
gay,  satisfied  with  a  little,  and  strongly  attached  to  their  religion 
and  native  country.  The  countenance  of  the  Canadian  is  long 
and  thin ;  his  complexion  sun-burnt  and  swarthy,  inclining 
towards  that  of  the  Indian ;  his  eyes  black  and  lively,  with  lank 
and  meagre  cheeks,  a  sharp  and  prominent  chin,  and  such  easy 
and  polite  manners,  as  though  he  had  always  lived  in  the  great 
world,  rather  than  amid  thick  forests. 

Their  intercourse  with  each  other  is  to  the  last  degree  affec- 
tionate, and  a  French  Canadian  village  constitutes  one  family. 
Their  cheerfulness,  whether  in  prosperity  or  adversity,  is  inex- 
haustible, and  more  valuable  to  them  than  all  the  boasted  attain- 
ments of  philosophy. 

There  is  a  marked  difference  between  this  province  and  the 
United  States  in  the  habits  of  the  people,  their  buildings,  and 
their  modes  of  living.  An  individual  from  the  latter  country, 
who  happens  to  be  in  Canada,  will  be  reminded  by  every  thing 
about  him  that  he  is  not  at  home. 

Quebec,  which,  until  1840,  was  the  capital  of  Canada,  is  sin- 
gularly situated,  half  on  a  plain  along  the  northern  bank  of  the 
St.  Lawrence,  and  the  other  half  on  the  top  of  a  steep  perpen- 
dicular rock,  350  feet  high.  These  are  called  the  Upper  and 
Lower  towns.  This  city,  as  a  military  station,  is  very  strong; 
its  fortifications  render  it  almost  a  second  Gibraltar.  It  was  one 
of  the  most  brilliant  scenes  of  British  glory. 

Near  it,  on  the  plains  of  Abraham,  Wolfe,  at  the  cost  of  his 


46  NORTH    AMERICA. 

life,  gained  the  splendid  victory  which  annexed  Canada  to  the 
British  empire.  The  population  of  Quebec  is  about  30,000  :  its 
commerce  is  considerable,  as  all  the  vessels,  from  Britain  and 
other  foreign  quarters,  stop  there  and  unload  their  cargoes. 
The  town  of  Three  Rivers,  containing  about  3000  inhabitants,  is 
situated  on  the  river  St.  Lawrence,  90  miles  above  Quebec. 

The  commercial  capital  of  Canada  is  Montreal.  Most  of  the 
business,  even  of  Quebec,  is  carried  on  by  branches  from  the 
Montreal  houses.  It  derives  a  great  impulse  from  the  transactions 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Fur  Company  ;  and  it  is  the  centre  of  the 
commerce  with  the  United  States,  carried  on  by  lake  Champlain 
and  the  Hudson. 

The  island  of  Montreal  is  about  thirty  miles  in  length,  and 
seven  in  breadth ;  it  is  of  alluvial  soil,  the  most  fertile  in  Lower 
Canada,  and  also  the  most  highly  cultivated.  The  view  over  it 
of  fruitful  fields,  gay  country-houses,  and  the  streams  by  which 
it  is  encircled,  is  one  of  the  most  pleasing  that  can  be  imagined. 
The  interior  of  the  town  is  not  so  attractive. 

The  streets,  though  tolerably  regular,  were  inconveniently 
narrow ;  but  of  late  several  have  been  formed,  extending  the 
whole  length  of  the  town,  that  are  commodious  and  airy.  The 
new  cathedral,  opened  in  1829,  is  considered  one  of  the  hand- 
somest structures  in  America.  It  is  255  feet  long,  134  broad, 
220  feet  high  in  its  principal  front ;  and  it  is  capable  of  containing 
10,000  persons.  Two  Catholic  seminaries,  the  English  church, 
and  the  general  hospital,  are  also  handsome  structures.  The 
population  amounts  to  40,000. 

La  Chine,  above  the  rapids  which  interrupt  the  navigation 
above  Montreal,  is  an  important  depot  for  the  interior  trade. 


NEW    BRUNSWICK, 


New  Brunswick  is  situated  to  the  east  of  the  State  of  Maine, 
and  to  the  north-west  of  Nova  Scotia,  from  which  it  is  separated 
by  the  Bay  of  Fundy  ;  on  the  north  it  has  part  of  Lower  Canada, 
the  boundary  between  the  two  being  the  River  Restigouche.  It 
has,  on  the  east,  a  winding  coast  along  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence, 
indented  by  navigable  bays  and  inlets.  The  country,  towards 
the  sea-coast,  and  along  the  St.  John's  River,  is  level,  but  the 
western  and  northern  parts,  are  somewhat  mountainous. 

This  colony  is  still  almost  one  unbroken  forest,  and  under  the 
encouragement  afforded  by  the  mother  country,  almost  all  the 
energies  of  the  inhabitants  are  directed  to  the  lumber  trade.     The 


NORTH   AMERICA.  47 

borders  of  the  rivers,  where  cultivated,  are  fertile  in  grass  and 
grain,  though  agriculture  is  not  yet  greatly  advanced.  The  sea- 
coast  abounds  in  cod  and  other  fish ;  the  river  St.  Johns  is 
thronged  with  herring,  shad  and  salmon.  The  fisheries  are  a 
source  of  considerable  wealth  and  employment  to  the  inhabitants ; 
the  produce  of  which  being,  with  timber,  the  great  staples  of 
export. 

The  town  of  St.  John's,  on  a  fine  harbour  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river  St.  John's,  is  the  most  considerable  place  in  New  Brunswick. 
The  population  is  about  12,000  :  in  1834  the  exports  from  it  were 
$1,000,000;  being  nearly  two-thirds  the  amount  from  all  the 
other  ports.  St.  Andrew's,  at  the  head  of  Passamaquoddy  Bay, 
besides  its  timber  trade,  has  a  considerable  fishery,  and  contains 
about  5000  inhabitants. 

Frederickton,  the  seat  of  government,  is  about  85  miles  up 
the  St.  John's  river,  which  being  navigable  for  vessels  of  50  tons, 
is  the  seat  of  a  considerable  inland  trade  ;  the  population  is  1800; 
it  is  rather  regularly  built  of  wood,  with  government  offices,  several 
churches,  and  a  college. 

The  river  Miramichi  is  distinguished  by  the  extensive  forests 
on  its  banks,  whence  large  shipments  of  timber  are  made,  at  the 
port  of  that  name,  as  well  as  those  of  Chatham,  Douglas,  and 
Newcastle.  This  tract  of  country  was,  in  October,  1825,  the 
scene  of  one  of  the  most  dreadful  conflagrations  on  record. 

The  flames,  kindled  by  accident  at  several  points  at  once,  were 
impelled  by  a  violent  wind,  and  fed  always  with  new  fuel,  till 
they  spread  over  about  100  miles  of  territory,  involving  it  in 
smoke  and  flame,  and  reducing  to  ashes  the  towns  of  Douglas 
and  Newcastle ;  nearly  200  persons  are  said  to  have  perished, 
and  more  than  2000  to  have  been  reduced  to  entire  destitution. 
The  natural  advantages  of  the  country,  however,  have  enabled 
it  to  recover  with  surprising  rapidity. 

New  Brunswick  was  originally  settled  by  German  troops  in 
the  service  of  Great  Britain,  and  hence  its  name.  It  was  in- 
cluded in  Nova  Scotia  until  1784.  Dalhousie  and  Bathurst,  on 
Chaleur  Bay,  and  Liverpool,  on  the  coast  of  Miramichi  Bay,  are 
small  villages. 


NOVA   SCOTIA. 


Nova  Scotia  was  first  settled  by  the  French,  and  named  by 
them  Acadia.  It  was  granted  by  James  I.  to  Sir  William  Alex- 
ander, a  Scottish  nobleman,  by  whom  it  was  called  Nova  Scotia  ; 


48  NORTH   AMERICA. 

but  was  not  confirmed  to  England  until  1713.  It  included  New 
Brunswick  until  1784,  when  it  was  divided  into  two  provinces. 

This  colony  is  a  large  peninsula,  bounded  on  the  north  by  the 
narrow  strait  separating  it  from  Cape  Breton  and  Prince  Edward's 
Island,  on  the  south-east  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  and  on  the 
north-west  by  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  which  penetrates  so  deep  as  to 
leave  only  an  isthmus  about  nine  miles  broad,  connecting  it  with 
New  Brunswick. 

Nova  Scotia  is  about  280  miles  long,  and  from  50  to  100 
broad,  comprising  about  16,000  square  miles.  The  surface  of 
the  country  is  moderately  uneven,  and  in  some  places  hilly.  The 
climate  is  cold,  but  healthy,  and,  with  the  progress  of  cultivation, 
is  gradually  ameliorating.  Spring  is  late  and  irregular  in  its 
approach ;  but  when  vegetation  commences,  it  is  very  rapid,  and 
in  a  few  days  changes  the  whole  face  of  nature. 

On  the  coast  the  soil  is  generally  poor,  but  in  the  interior  and 
northern  parts  it  is  well  adapted  to  cultivation.  Wheat  and 
other  grains  are  raised  to  some  extent,  and  large  quantities  of 
the  finest  potatoes.  The  population  in  1832  was,  including 
Cape  Breton,  about  190,000.  The  principal  exports  to  Europe 
are  timber  and  fish,  and  to  the  West  Indies  and  the  neighbour- 
ing states,  timber,  provisions,  coal  of  fine  quality,  gypsum,  and 
freestone. 

The  administration  of  the  colony  is  vested  in  a  governor, 
council,  and  house  of  assembly.  There  are  colleges  at  Halifax, 
Windsor,  and  Pictou ;  also  numerous  schools,  partly  supported 
by  government,  for  the  instruction  of  the  lower  classes.  The 
religious  denominations  are  Episcopalians,  Presbyterians,  Metho- 
dists, Baptists,  and  Catholics. 

Halifax  is  the  capital,  situated  on  one  of  the  noblest  harbours 
in  the  world,  capable  of  containing  any  amount  of  shipping  of 
any  burthen.  It  was  founded  in  1749,  by  General  Cornwallis, 
and  has  since  carried  on  almost  all  the  trade  of  the  colony.  The 
most  extensive  dock-yard  in  British  America  has  been  formed 
here,  where  a  number  of  ships  of  the  line  and  armed  vessels  are 
always  lying,  either  stationed  here  or  for  repairs.  A  considera- 
ble number  of  troops  are  always  in  garrison,  who,  with  the  naval 
officers,  give  it  the  air  of  a  military  place.     Population,  15,000. 

Lunenburg,  the  chief  of  the  German  settlements,  contains  a 
population  of  about  2000  inhabitants,  and  has  a  brisk  trade. 
Liverpool  also  carries  on  a  considerable  trade ;  but  Shelburn, 
which,  at  the  end  of  the  American  revolutionary  war,  was  the 
largest  place  in  Nova  Scotia,  has  sunk  to  a  mere  village.  The 
north-eastern  coast  has  Pictou,  from  which,  and  the  neighbour- 


NORTH   AMERICA.  49 

ing  bays  on  this  coast,  is  shipped  the  largest  quantity  of  timber 
and  coal. 

On  a  river  falling  into  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  is  Annapolis,  the 
original  French  capital ;  but  since  the  transference  of  the 
government  to  Halifax,  it  has  sunk  into  a  mere  secondary  place. 
The  trade  of  this  great  bay  is  now  carried  on  from  Yarmouth, 
at  its  mouth,  the  population  of  which,  since  1791,  has  risen  from 
1300  to  4500.     Gypsum  is  the  principal  export. 

Cape  Breton  is  a  large  island,  separated  from  Nova  Scotia  by 
St.  George's  Gulf  and  the  Gut  of  Canseau.  The  island  is  about 
100  miles  in  length,  and  from  30  to  80  in  breadth.  It  is  pene- 
trated by  an  arm  of  the  sea,  called  the  Bras  d'Or,  which  divides 
it  nearly  into  two  equal  portions.  Only  the  coasts,  including 
those- of  the  Bras  d'Or,  have  yet  been  cultivated ;  and  the  popu- 
lation in  general  is  in  a  less  improved  state  than  in  the  other 
colonies.  The  agriculture  is  still  in  its  infancy,  the  valuable 
cod-fishery  attracting  the  chief  industry  of  the  people.  Cape 
Breton,  therefore,  imports  wheat  flour,  though  it  affords  a  small 
surplus  of  oats  and  potatoes.  There  are  coal-mines  of  great 
value.  Cape  Breton  has  excellent  harbours,  and  commands,  in 
a  great  measure,  the  navigation  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  Of  the 
population,  exceeding  25,000,  the  most  numerous  portion  con- 
sists of  Scottish  highlanders,  and  next  to  them  of  Acadians. 
The  island  was,  in  1820,  politically  united  to  Nova  Scotia,  and 
sends  two  members  to  the  house  of  assembly. 

Louisburg,  which  the  French  carefully  fortified,  and  made  one 
of  the  principal  stations  in  their  "  New  France,"  is  now  entirely 
deserted ;  and  Sydney,  a  village  of  800  inhabitants,  is  all  the 
capital  of  which  Cape  Breton  can  boast.  St.  Peter's,  on  the 
south  coast,  and  Arechat,  a  small  fishing-town  on  Isle  Madame, 
are  the  other  principal  settlements. 

To  the  south-east  of  Nova  Scotia  lies  Sable  Island,  a  danger- 
ous sand-bank  in  the  track  of  vessels  sailing  between  Europe 
and  America. 


PRINCE    EDWARD'S    ISLAND. 

Prince  Edward's,  formerly  St.  John's,  is  a  fine  fertile  island 
in  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  lying  nearly  parallel  to  the  coasts 
of  Nova  Scotia  and  New  Brunswick.  It  is  135  miles  long,  and 
34  broad.  It  is  deeply  indented  by  bays  and  inlets.  The  sur- 
face of  the  island  is  level,  and  varied  only  by  gentle  undulations. 
It  has  shorter  winters  than  the  neighbouring  colonies,  and  is  ex- 

5  59 


50  NORTH    AMERICA. 

empt  from  those  extremes  of  heat  and  cold  and  heavy  fogs, 
which  render  them  often  so  gloomy. 

The  soil  is  good,  and  well  adapted  to  agriculture,  especially 
wheat  and  oats,  of  which  it  affords  a  surplus.  In  1768,  the 
island  contained  only  150  families.  The  population  is  now 
35,000,  chiefly  Scotch  highlanders,  and  some  Acadians,  and 
English  from  Yorkshire.  Charlottetown  is  the  capital,  with  a 
population  of  3500. 


NEWFOUNDLAND. 

This  large  island  is  420  miles  long,  and  300  broad,  situated 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  is  the  most  east- 
ern part  of  British  America.  It  presents  a  bold  and  rocky  shore, 
abounding  in  harbours.  The  soil  is  mostly  barren,  and  the  tim- 
ber scanty  and  stunted.  Some  tracts,  however,  are  supposed  to 
be  well  fitted  for  pasturage.  The  climate  is  severe,  and  the 
country  is  frequently  visited  by  dreary  fogs  and  storms  of  sleet 
and  snow. 

This  island  owes  its  importance  to  its  cod-fisheries,  which  are 
the  most  valuable  in  the  world.  The  fish  are  taken  singly,  with 
baited  hooks,  upon  the  banks,  which  are  shallow  places,  proba- 
bly formed  by  the  deposits  of  sand  brought  down  from  the  tro- 
pics by  the  gulf  stream,  which  also  bears  down  on  its  bosom 
countless  millions  of  the  animal  on  which  the  fish  feed. 

The  Grand  Bank  of  Newfoundland,  situated  to  the  eastward 
of  the  island,  is  the  greatest  submarine  elevation  known.  It  is 
from  500  to  600  miles  in  length,  and  in  some  places  near  200  in 
breadth.  Some  distance  farther  from  the  Grand  Bank,  is  the 
Outer  Bank,  or  Flemish  Cap,  about  90  miles  in  length  by  50  wide ; 
and  to  the  westward  are  the  Green  and  Whale  Banks. 

These  are  the  great  rendezvous  of  the  cod  fish,  and  form  the 
fishing-ground  for  some  2500  to  3000  vessels,  and  from  35,000 
to  40,000  Americans,  English,  and  French,  chiefly  however  the 
first  and  last.  The  banks  are  frequently  enveloped  in  dense 
fogs,  from  April  to  December. 

So  early  was  the  value  of  the  Newfoundland  fisheries  disco- 
vered, that  in  1517,  only  twenty  years  after  the  first  voyage, 
upwards  of  fifty  vessels  of  different  nations  were  found  employed 
in  it.  The  British  soon  took  the  most  active  part,  and  formed 
colonies  on  the  island.  Their  sovereignty  was  acknowledged  by 
the  treaty  of  Utrecht,  which  reserved,  however,  to  the  French, 
the  right  of  fishing  on  the  banks.     This  was  confirmed  in  1763 


UNITED    STATES.  51 

when  the  small  islands  of  St.  Pierre  and  Miquelon  were  allowed 
to  them  to  dry  their  fish.  The  Americans  have  a  right  to  take 
fish  at  any  three  miles  from  the  shore,  and  to  dry  them  on  any 
of  the  neighbouring  coasts  unoccupied  by  the  British  settlers. 

The  fishing  season  begins  in  April,  and  ends  in  October ;  the 
business  is  lucrative,  but  dangerous ;  and  is  an  admirable 
nursery  for  our  hardy  and  adventurous  seamen,  and  furnishes  a 
considerable  element  of  our  trade.  Many  English  and  French 
vessels  are  here  in  company.  The  English  and  French  dry  their 
fish  on  the  islands.  We  bring  great  portions  of  ours,  pickled,  to 
our  own  ports,  and  dry  them  there,  particularly  at  Marblehead, 
Gloucester,  and  Beverly.  A  great  number  of  acres  round  those 
towns,  are  covered  with  the  flakes  or  scaffolds  on  which  those 
fish  are  dried. 

Newfoundland  contains  80,000  inhabitants,  almost  entirely 
fishermen.  St.  John's^  the  principal  place  on  the  island,  is  little 
more  than  a  large  fishing  station,  the  whole  shore  being  lined 
with  wharves  and  stages  for  landing  and  drying  fish.  It  is 
defended  by  several  forts,  one  of  which,  Fort  Townsend,  is  the 
residence  of  the  governor.  The  houses  are  built  mostly  of  wood. 
This  construction  exposed  the  town  to  a  series  of  dreadful  con- 
flagrations, in  1816,  1817,  and  1818.  In  one  of  these,  (Novem- 
ber 7,  1818,)  property  to  the  amount  of  half  a  million  sterling 
was  destroyed.  The  stationary  population  of  St.  John's  is  esti- 
mated at  11,000,  but  varies  according  to  the  season  of  the  year. 

The  uninhabited  island  of  Anticosti,  in  the  Gulf  of  St.  Law- 
rence, and  the  coast  of  Labrador,  are  dependencies  on  Newfound- 
land. Near  its  southern  coast  are  the  little  islands  of  St.  Pierre 
and  Miquelon,  belonging  to  France,  and  inhabited  by  fishermen. 


UNITED    STATES. 

The  United  States  are  the  most  interesting  and  important 
division  of  the  western  continent.  They  are  distinguished  for 
the  excellence  of  their  government,  the  rapid  increase  of  the 
population,  and  for  the  intelligence,  industry,  and  enterprise  of 
the  inhabitants.  They  occupy  the  most  valuable  and  productive 
portion  of  North  America,  and  rank  amongst  the  most  powerful, 
commercial,  and  wealthy  nations  of  the  globe. 

The  United  States  extend  through  29  degrees  of  latitude,  and 
58  degrees  of  longitude,  and  comprise  a  superficial  area  of 
upwards  of  2,300,000  square  miles.     The  frontier  line  has  a 

F  61 


52  NORTH   AMERICA. 

length  of  10,000  miles,  of  which  about  3600  are  sea-coast, 
and  1200  lake-coast.  A  line  drawn  across  from  the  Atlantic  to 
the  Pacific,  through  the  centre,  is  about  2500  miles  in  length. 

So  vast  a  region  of  course  includes  a  great  variety  of  surface, 
soil,  and  climate.  It  abounds  in  navigable  rivers,  and  a  large 
proportion  of  it  is  susceptible  of  cultivation,  and  is  of  a  quality 
calculated  to  repay  the  labour  bestowed  upon  it,  more  than  almost 
any  other  region  of  the  same  extent  in  the  world :  but  a  small 
portion  of  its  surface  is  occupied  by  mountains,  which,  from  their 
height  or  ruggedness,  forbid  all  attempts  to  render  them  produc- 
tive in  the  means  of  subsistence  to  man. 

There  are  no  great  deserts,  and  few  barrens ;  nothing  like  the 
vast  sterile  plains  which  exist  in  other  parts  of  the  world.  The 
basins  of  the  rivers  are  exceedingly  productive  :  that  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, including  the  Missouri,  is  the  finest  valley  on  the 
globe. 

Though  lying  in  the  temperate  zone,  the  United  States  embrace 
a  great  variety  of  climate.  In  the  northern  parts  the  winters  are 
long  and  severe ;  snow  often  falls  to  the  depth  of  two  or  three 
feet,  and  the  cold  is  so  piercing  as  to  oblige  the  inhabitants  to 
make  very  diligent  provision  against  it.  Spring  returns  here  in 
April,  and  in  summer  the  heat  is  great.  In  the  southern  parts 
of  the  country,  snow  is  seldom  seen,  ice  is  rarely  formed  in  the 
rivers,  and  those  fruits  which  shrink  from  a  northern  climate, 
and  flourish  only  in  warm  regions,  are  scattered  over  the  soil. 

In  Georgia,  the  inhabitants  may  collect  the  figs  which  grow 
before  the  windows,  and  may  load  their  tables  with  oranges, 
lemons,  and  other  exquisite  fruits  that  grow  in  their  gardens  and 
groves ;  while  in  parts  of  Maine,  New  Hampshire,  and  Vermont, 
even  peaches  will  not  flourish.  Between  these  extremities,  as  in 
Virginia,  Kentucky,  Missouri,  and  Illinois,  there  is  a  region 
adapted  to  the  wine-grape,  which  thrives  best  removed  from  both 
the  torrid  and  frigid  zones. 

The  United  States  are  intersected  by  two  principal  and  two 
subordinate  ranges  of  mountains,  the  Rocky  and  Alleghany,  the 
Ozark  and  Green  Mountains.  The  Rocky  Mountain  range  forms 
the  great  division  ridge  of  North  America,  separating  the  waters 
which  flow  in  opposite  directions,  towards  the  great  oceans  which 
bound  the  opposite  sides  of  the  continent.  They  are  situated  at 
a  medium  distance  of  about  600  miles  from  the  Pacific ;  the 
highest  rise  above  the  line  of  perpetual  snow,  being  estimated  at 
16,000  feet  in  height. 

The  Alleghany  range  runs  in  a  north-easterly  direction  from 
the  northern  part  of  Alabama  to  New-York,  stretching  along  in 
uniform  ridges,  at  the  distance  of  250  to  80  miles  from  the  sea- 


UNITED   STATES.  53 

coa«t,  and  following  its  general  direction.  It  occupies  in  breadth 
a  space  of  from  60  to  120  miles,  and  separates  the  waters  which 
run  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  from  those  which  flow  into  the  Mis- 
sissippi and  its  tributaries.  The  highest  elevation  in  this  range, 
and  the  most  prominent  in  the  Atlantic  states  is  Black  Mountain, 
in  the  western  part  of  North  Carolina :  it  is  6476  feet  in  height. 

The  Green  Mountains  extend  from  Connecticut,  through  Mas- 
sachusetts and  Vermont,  to  Canada,  dividing  the  Atlantic  rivers 
from  those  of  Lake  Champlain  and  the  St.  Lawrence.  Some  of 
the  peaks  of  this  range  attain  considerable  elevation.  In  New 
Hampshire  and  Maine  are  found  many  considerable  peaks, 
which  are  not  connected  with  any  systematic  range,  but  are 
scattered  in  detached  groups.  The  White  Mountains,  in  New 
Hampshire,  are  the  most  elevated  in  New  England. 

The  Ozark  Mountains  extend  from  Texas  through  the  western 
part  of  Arkansas,  into  the  lead-mine  region  of  Missouri.  Their 
general  direction  is  nearly  similar  to  that  of  the  Alleghany  range, 
and  their  altitude  is  supposed  to  be  about  2000  feet  above  the 
sea. 

The  territory  of  the  United  States  is  washed  by  three  seas,  the 
Atlantic  Ocean  on  the  east,  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  on  the  south,  and 
the  Pacific  Ocean  on  the  west.  The  principal  bays  and  sounds 
on  the  Atlantic  border,  are  Passamaquoddy  Bay,  Massachusetts 
Bay,  Long  Island  Sour.:!,  Delaware  Bay,  Chesapeake  Bay,  and 
Albemarle  and  Pamlico  Sounds.  In  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  the 
principal  bays  are  Chatham  Bay,  Appalachie  Bay,  and  Mobile 
Bay.  In  the  Pacific,  the  Gulf  of  Georgia  is  the  most  important 
inlet  on  the  western  coast  of  the  United  States. 

The  great  lakes  Superior,  Huron,  Erie,  and  Ontario,  not  being 
altogether  in  the  United  States,  have  been  described  elsewhere. 
The  boundary  between  the  British  and  American  territoires 
passes  through  their  centre,  allotting  about  an  equal  share  of  their 
vast  waters  to  each  nation.  Lake  Michigan  is  wholly  within 
the  territory  of  the  United  States.  It  is  connected  with  Huron 
by  the  Strait  of  Michillimackinac,  and  is  about  320  miles  in 
length,  and  from  55  to  60  miles  wide,  with  an  area  of  16,200 
square  miles.  The  country  on  both  sides  of  this  lake  is 
settling  rapidly  ;  and  the  mildness  of  the  climate,  the  excellence 
of  the  soil,  and  the  probable  speedy  junction  of  its  waters  with 
those  of  the  Mississippi,  will  shortly  fill  this  portion  of  the  west 
with  population  and  wealth.  The  other  lakes  of  any  magnitude 
in  the  United  States,  are  Champlain  in  New-York,  Winnipiseogee 
in  New-Hampshire,  and  Moose  Head  in  Maine. 

The  rivers  which  water  the  territory  of  the  United  States  are 
numerous,  and  some  of  them  among  the  most  important  in  the 

5*  63 


54  NORTH   AMERICA. 

world.  No  portion  of  the  globe  possesses  greater  facilities  for 
inland  navigation  and  trade,  or  is  more  generally  intersected  with 
large  and  navigable  streams.  They  may  be  divided  into  four 
great  classes. 

1st.  The  streams  which  rise  on  the  east  side  of  the  Alleghany 
mountains,  and  flow  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean. 

2d.  Those  south  of  the  Alleghany  range,  which  discharge 
themselves  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

3d.  The  Mississippi  and  its  wide  tributaries,  which  drain  the 
waters  of  the  vast  valley  included  between  the  Rocky  and  Alle- 
ghany ranges ;  and, 

4th.  The  rivers  which,  rising  on  the  western  declivity  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  direct  their  course  to  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

The  Penobscot,  Kennebec,  Connecticut,  Hudson,  Delaware, 
Susquehanna,  Potomac,  James,  Savannah,  Alatamaha,  and  St. 
John's  rivers,  are  the  principal  that  flow  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean. 
The  Suwanee,  Apalachicola,  Mobile,  Pearl,  Mississippi,  and  Sa- 
bine rivers,  are  the  chief  that  empty  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

The  Mississippi  is  the  largest  river  of  North  America,  and 
one  of  the  noblest  in  the  world,  watering  a  more  fertile  region, 
and  having  a  larger  course  of  uninterrupted  navigation,  than 
any  other  known  stream.  Its  course — taken  in  connexion  with 
its  mighty  auxiliary,  the  Missouri,  is  estimated  at  4100  miles 
in  length.  The  space  drained  by  its  waters  is  supposed  to  ex- 
ceed 1,300,000  square  miles,  being  upwards  of  two-thirds  of  the 
whole  territory  of  the  United  States,  or  about  one  thirty-eighth 
part  of  the  land  surface  of  the  globe. 

In  no  portion  of  the  world  has  the  triumph  of  art  over  the 
obstacles  of  nature  been  so  complete.  The  introduction  of 
steam-navigation  has  been  productive  of  immense  advantages, 
and  has  been  carried  to  a  greater  extent  than  on  any  other 
river.  The  Mississippi  proper  rises  west  of  Lake  Superior,  in  a 
dreary  and  desolate  region,  amidst  lakes  and  swamps,  and, 
after  pursuing  a  south-east  course  of  about  600  miles,  reaches 
the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  where  it  descends  perpendicularly  16 
feet,  and  where  are  58  feet  of  rapids.  Thence  it  flows  in  a 
south-easterly,  and  then  southerly  direction ;  and,  after  forming 
the  boundary  between  the  states  of  Missouri,  Arkansas,  and 
Louisiana,  on  the  west,  and  Illinois,  Kentucky,  Tennessee,  and 
Mississippi,  on  the  east,  discharges  its  waters  through  several 
mouths,  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  It  is  about  2800  miles  long, 
and  is  navigable  for  steam-boats  to  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony, 
2200  miles  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

The  Missouri  enters  the  Mississippi  river  about  18  miles 
above  St.  Louis,  after  a  course  of  2900  miles.    Although  it  loses 


UNITED    STATES.  55 

its  name  at  its  confluence  with  the  latter,  it  is  much  the  longer 
stream  of  the  two ;  but  the  Mississippi,  having  been  first  disco- 
vered and  explored,  has  retained  its  name  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 
This  error  being  now  past  remedy,  the  Missouri  must  be  consi- 
dered as  a  tributary  of  the  Mississippi.  It  is  formed  of  numer- 
ous branches,  which  rise  among  the  Rocky  Mountains,  between 
the  parallels  of  42°  and  48°  north  latitude.  The  most  remote 
are  the  Jefferson,  Madison,  and  Gallatin  rivers. 

The  only  obstruction  that  occurs  to  the  navigation  of  the 
Missouri  is  at  the  Great  Falls,  a  distance  of  2500  miles  from 
the  Mississippi.  Here  the  river  descends  362  feet  in  18  miles: 
the  descent  is  by  four  great  pitches  or  cataracts,  of  98,  19,  49, 
and  26  feet,  respectively.  The  width  of  the  river  is  about  350 
yards,  and  the  cataracts  are  considered  to  be,  next  to  those  of 
Niagara,  the  grandest  in  the  world.  About  100  miles  above,  is 
the  place  called  the  Gates  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  This  river 
was  lately  ascended  by  a  steam-vessel  to  the  mouth  of,  and  300 
miles  up  the  Yellow-Stone,  a  distance  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico 
of  3300  miles. 

The  largest  tributaries  of  the  Missouri  are,  the  Yellow  Stone, 
the  Platte,  or  Shallow  river,  and  the  Kanzas.  They  all  rise  in 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  flow  through  a  flat  prairie  country, 
inhabited  by  a  widely  scattered  Indian  population. 

The  Arkansas  is,  after  the  Missouri,  the  most  considerable 
tributary  of  the  Mississippi  from  the  west.  It  rises  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  its  course  is  computed  to  be  about  2000  miles. 
It  enters  the  Mississippi  river  about  540  miles  below  the  Missou- 
ri. Steam-boats  can  generally  ascend  this  river  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Canadian,  its  largest  tributary,  and  occasionally  to  Can- 
tonment Gibson,  640  miles  from  the  Mississippi  river. 

The  Red  river  is  the  first  tributary  stream  of  any  note  which 
enters  the  Mississippi,  in  ascending  from  its  mouth.  It  has  a 
course  of  about  1500  miles,  and  flows  through  immense  prairies 
of  a  red  soil. 

The  Wisconsin  river  joins  the  Mississippi  from  the  east  4  or  5 
miles  below  the  town  of  Prairie  du  Chien.  In  part  of  its  course 
it  approaches  so  near  the  Fox  river  of  Green  Bay,  as  to  leave  a 
portage  of  only  l£  miles.  It  is  one  of  the  great  natural  chan- 
nels of  communication  between  the  lakes  and  the  Mississippi. 

The  Illinois  river  enters  the  Mississippi  18  miles  above  the 
Missouri,  after  a  course  of  more  than  500  miles.  It  is  near  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  has  a  remarkably 
smooth,  gentle  current. 

The  Ohio  river  is  the  largest  eastern  tributary  of  the  Missis- 
sippi.    At  its  junction,  and  for  100  miles  above,  it  is  as  large 

F*  65 


56  NORTH   AMERICA. 

as  the  parent  stream.  The  Ohio  is  formed  by  the  union  of  the 
Alleghany  and  Monongahela  rivers  at  Pittsburg.  It  flows  in  a 
south-westerly  direction  for  945  miles,  separating  the  states  of 
Ohio,  Indiana,  and  Illinois,  from  Virginia  and  Kentucky,  and 
falls  into  the  Mississippi  193  miles  below  the  Missouri.  Its  cur- 
rent is  gentle,  and  is  nowhere  broken  by  any  considerable  falls, 
except  at  Louisville,  in  Kentucky,  where  the  water  descends  22^ 
feet  in  two  miles.  This  obstruction  is  now  obviated  by  the  Louis- 
ville and  Portland  canal,  which  affords  a  passage  to  steam-boats 
of  small  draft,  at  all  seasons,  to  the  upper  parts  of  the  river  at 
Pittsburg. 

The  most  considerable  river  on  the  Pacific  side  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains  is  the  Columbia,  or  Oregon.  Its  head-waters  inter- 
lock with  the  Arkansas,  Rio  del  Norte,  &c. :  it.  is  about  1500 
miles  in  length ;  its  principal  branches  are  Lewis's  or  Saptin 
river,  1200  miles  in  extent ;  Clark's  or  Flat  Head  river,  600 
miles  long,  M'Gillivray's,  Okinagan,  &c.  Vessels  of  300  tons 
may  ascend  the  Columbia  125  miles ;  and  large  sloops  may  go 
up  to  the  head  of  tide,  183  miles  from  the  ocean. 

Minerals  abound  in  the  United  States  in  great  variety  and  pro- 
fusion. Iron  is  very  generally  diffused,  and  is  very  abundant. 
Lead,  limestone,  and  coal,  both  of  the  anthracite  and  bituminous 
kind,  abound  in  quantities  supposed  to  be  inexhaustible,  especially 
of  the  former  description.  Gold  has  recently  been  found  to  a 
considerable  amount  in  Virginia,  North  and  South  Carolina, 
Georgia,  Alabama,  and  Tennessee.  The  most  valuable  mines 
are  in  North  Carolina  and  Georgia. 

The  lead-mines  of  Missouri,  Illinois,  and  Wisconsin,  are  said 
to  be  the  richest  in  quality  in  the  world ;  and  the  quantity  of  that 
metal  extracted  from  the  ore,  within  the  last  few  years,  has  been 
so  great  as  to  exclude  almost  entirely  the  foreign  article  from  our 
markets.  The  annual  produce  of  the  Missouri  mines  is  estimated 
at  7  million,   and  of  the  Illinois  and  Wisconsin  10  million  pounds. 

Salt  springs  abound  in  many  parts  of  the  Union,  and  large 
quantities  of  Salt  are  made  in  New  York,  Western  Pennsylvania, 
Western  Virginia,  Ohio,  and  Illinois :  it  is  also  made  from  sea- 
water  in  some  parts  of  New  England.  The  whole  amount  made 
is  stated  to  be  about  7  million  bushels. 

The  United  States  form  a  federal  republic.  Each  of  the  states 
is  independent,  and  has  the  exclusive  control  of  all  concerns 
merely  local ;  but  the  defence  of  the  country,  the  regulation  of 
commerce,  and  all  the  general  concerns  of  the  confederacy,  are 
committed,  by  the  constitution,  to  the  general  government. 

The  legislative  power  is  vested  in  a  Congress,  consisting  of  a 
Senate  and  House  of  Representatives.     The  Senate  is  composed 

66 


UNITED    STATES.  57 

of  two  members  from  each  State,  chosen  every  two  years,  for  a 
period  of  six  years,  so  that  one-third  of  the  Senate  is  renewed 
biennially.  The  number  of  senators  is  at  present  52.  The 
members  of  the  House  of  Representatives  are  chosen  every  two 
years,  each  state  being  entitled  to  a  number  proportionate  to  its 
population,  in  a  ratio,  in  the  states  that  do  not  admit  of  slavery, 
of  one  to  every  47,700  inhabitants ;  and  in  the  states  where  there 
are  slaves,  of  one  for  every  47,700  of  the  free  white  population, 
and  one  for  every  79,500  of  the  slaves.  The  number  of  repre- 
sentatives is  now  240. 

The  judiciary  is  composed  of  a  Supreme  Court,  of  one  chief 
and  8  associate  judges  ;  of  34  District  Courts,  of  one  judge  each, 
except  that  7  of  the  states  are  divided  into  two  districts  each  ;  and 
of  9  Circuit  Courts,  composed  of  the  judge  of  the  district,  and  one 
of  the  judges  of  the  Supreme  Court. 

The  executive  power  is  vested  in  a  President,  who,  together 
with  the  Vice-President,  is  chosen  for  four  years,  by  electors 
from  all  the  states.  The  President  must  be  a  native-born  citizen, 
or  have  been  a  citizen  at  the  adoption  of  the  constitution,  of  35 
years  of  age,  and  have  resided  in  the  United  States  14  years. 
The  principal  subordinate  officers  of  the  executive  department, 
are  the  Secretaries  of  State,  of  the  Treasury,  of  War,  and  of  the 
Navy,  the  Postmaster  General,  and  the  Attorney  General.  They 
are  removable  at  the  will  of  the  President,  and,  with  the  Vice- 
President,  form  the  cabinet. 

The  seat  of  government  is  at  the  City  of  Washington. 

The  government  of  the  United  States  is  conducted  according 
to  the  provisions  of  a  written  document,  called  the  Constitution, 
which  was  formed  and  adopted  in  1789,  and  has  since  been 
amended.  It  secures  to  the  people  the  grand  principles  of  free- 
dom, liberty  of  conscience  in  matters  of  religion,  liberty  of  the 
press,  trial  by  jury,  and  the  right  of  choosing  and  being  chosen 
to  office. 

The  revenue  of  the  United  States  is  chiefly  derived  from  duties 
on  imports,  the  sales  of  public  lands,  post-offices,  lead-mines,  &c. 
The  revenue  on  imports  is  the  most  important. 

The  second  great  source  of  revenue  is  the  national  domain,  or 
public  lands,  which  consists  of  tracts  of  territory  ceded  to  the 
general  government  by  several  states ;  of  the  lands  in  the  terri- 
tory of  Louisiana,  purchased  from  France  ;  and  those  in  Florida, 
acquired  by  treaty  from  Spain.  A  vast  portion  of  this  land  is 
occupied  by  the  Indians,  who  are  considered  as  proprietors  of 
the  soil,  till  the  government  extinguish  their  title  by  purchase. 
A  General  Land  Office  at  Washington,  directs  the  sale  of  these 
territories.  All  the  lands  are  surveyed  before  sale ;  they  are 
divided  into  townships  of  six  miles  square,  which  are  subdivided 


58  NORTH    AMERICA. 

into  sections  of  one  mile  square,  containing  each  640  acres,  and 
sold  in  sections,  half,  quarter,  and  half-quarter  sections.  The 
minimum  price  is  fixed  hy  law  at  a  dollar  and  a  quarter.  All 
sales  are  made  for  cash. 

Salt-springs  and  lead-mines  are  reserved,  but  may  be  sold  by- 
special  orders  from  the  President.  One  section  of  640  acres  is 
reserved  in  each  township,  as  a  fund  for  the  perpetual  support  of 
schools.  Five  per  cent,  on  all  sales  of  land  are  reserved,  three- 
fifths  of  which  are  expended  by  Congress  in  making  roads  lead- 
ing to  the  states  in  which  the  lands  are  situated,  and  two-fifths 
are  expended  by  the  states  for  the  promotion  of  learning.  In 
the  year  1820,  the  sales  of  the  public  lands  produced  1,167,225 
dollars,  which  had  increased  in  1836  to  the  astonishing  sum  of 
24,000,000  dollars,  but  the  sales  were  materially  less  in  the  two 
succeeding  years.  Since  the  commencement  of  the  government, 
there  have  been  sold  75  million  acres,  for  which  upwards  of  106 
million  dollars  has  been  paid.  There  yet  remain  unsold  more 
than  313  million  acres  of  land. 

The  Army  of  the  United  States  consists  of  two  regiments  of 
dragoons,  4  of  artillery,  and  8  of  infantry,  containing,  at  the  end 
of  1839,  an  aggregate  amount  of  12,539  men,  including  a  corps 
of  Engineers,  Topographical  Engineers,  and  Ordnance  depart- 
ment ;  the  whole  being  under  the  command  of  a  Major  General 
and  two  Brigadier  Generals. 

The  Navy  of  the  United  States,  though  on  a  small  scale,  acquired 
great  reputation  during  the  three  years'  war,  when  the  American 
ships  successfully  encountered  the  formidable  force  of  England. 
Much  has  since  been  done,  both  in  enlarging  the  number  of 
vessels,  and  extending  and  constructing  suitable  dock-yards  ;  but 
the  naval  force  is  not  considered  adequate  to  the  exigencies  of 
the  country.  It  consists  of  65  vessels,  of  which  there  are  11 
ships  of  the  line,  14  frigates,  4  steamers,  21  sloops  of  war,  and 
15  smaller  vessels. 

There  are  seven  navy-yards  belonging  to  the  United  States, 
viz. :  at  Portsmouth ;  at  Charlestown,  in  Boston  Harbour ;  at 
Brooklyn,  on  Wallabout  Bay,  opposite  New  York  ;  at  Philadel- 
phia ;  at  Washington ;  at  Gosport,  opposite  Norfolk,  Virginia ; 
and  at  Pensacola,  Florida.  There  are  graving  or  dry  docks  at 
Charlestown  and  Gosport,  and  a  third  is  constructing  at  Brooklyn. 

The  post  routes  cover  an  extent  of  133,999  miles,  on  which 
the  mails  are  carried  34,496,878  miles  a  year.  The  number 
of  post-offices  is  13,376. 

The  office  of  the  Mint  of  the  United  States  was  established  at 
Philadelphia  in  1792,  and  in  1835  an  act  was  passed  for  estab- 
lishing a  branch  in  New  Orleans,  for  the  coinage  of  gold  and 


UNITED  STATES.  59 

silver,  and  branches  at  Charlotte,  North  Carolina,  and  Dahlone- 
ga,  Georgia,  for  the  coinage  of  gold  ;  the  general  direction  being 
under  the  control  of  the  Director  of  the  Mint  at  Philadelphia. 
The  coinage  is  executed  by  machines  propelled  by  steam-power ; 
The  value  of  the  coinage  during  the  year  1839  was  3,576,467 
dollars,  comprising  1,371,278  dollars  in  gold  coins,  2,053,668 
in  silver,  and  31,286  dollars  61  cents,  in  copper. 

The  chief  agricultural  occupations  in  the  eastern  states  are 
grazing  and  the  dairy.  The  middle  states  are  principally  devoted 
to  the  cultivation  of  wheat  and  Indian-corn ;  the  southern  to  that 
of  tobacco,  cotton,  sugar,  and  rice ;  and  the  western  to  Indian- 
corn  and  wheat.  Slave  labour  is  chiefly  employed  in  the  south- 
ern and  in  some  of  the  middle  and  western  states.  The  cotton 
crop  in  1836  was  estimated  at  480  million  pounds,  of  the  value 
of  80  million  dollars.  Tobacco,  80,000  hogsheads,  of  the  value 
of  six  million  dollars ;  of  rice  to  the  amount  of  2\  million  dol- 
lars ;  and  of  sugar  and  molasses,  of  the  former  100,000  hogs- 
heads, and  of  the  latter  63,000  hogsheads.  The  amount  of 
wheat,  rye,  Indian-corn,  &c.  raised  in  the  country,  it  is  impos- 
sible to  estimate  with  any  degree  of  certainty,  but  it  no  doubt 
amounts  to  many  million  barrels. 

The  manufactures  of  the  United  States  are  considerable,  and 
gradually  increasing.  The  eastern  and  middle  states,  which 
are  most  abundantly  supplied  with  water-power,  are  most  exten- 
sively engaged  in  manufactures,  especially  of  cotton,  woollen, 
iron,  glass,  paper,  wood,  &c.  The  present  annual  value  is 
computed  at  8350,000,000 ;  and  the  capital  invested  in  all  the 
manufactories  of  the  Union  is  estimated  at  more  than  1000  mil- 
lions. Most  of  the  American  manufactures  are  designed  for 
home  consumption  ;  yet  domestic  manufactures  are  exported  to 
the  amount  of  from  6  to  8|  million  dollars  annually. 

The  manufactures  of  cotton  goods  amount  to  about  50  mil- 
lions of  dollars  ;  woollen  70  millions  ;  leather  and  its  manufac- 
tures 45  millions ;  hats,  caps,  bonnets,  &c,  15  millions ;  cabi- 
net-ware 10  millions;  cables  and  cordage,  paper  and  glass-ware, 
each  six  millions;  soap  and  candles  nearly  12,  and  of  manufac- 
tured tobacco  and  refined  sugar,  each  about  2  millions  of  dol- 
lars. 

The  commerce  of  the  United  States  is,  next  to  that  of  Great 
Britain,  the  largest  in  the  world.  It  consists  principally  in  the 
exchange  of  agricultural  produce  for  the  manufactures  of  other 
countries,  and  the  productions  of  tropical  climates. 

At  the  commencement  of  the  year  1838,  there  was  of  registered 
tonnage  810,447,  including  127,241  tons  employed  in  the  whale- 
fishery  ;  the  enrolled  and  licensed  tonnage  amounted  to  956,980, 


60  NORTH   AMERICA. 

and  fishing-vessels  129,257;  total  1,896,685 ;  and,  during  the 
year  1838,  there  was  built  in  the  United  States,  registered  ton- 
nage 42,343,  and  of  enrolled  tonnage  80,643;  total  122,987. 

Cotton  is  the  principal  article  of  export,  its  annual  value  ex- 
ceeding 60  million  dollars ;  tobacco,  bread-stuffs,  the  produce  of 
the  fisheries,  timber,  bark,  cotton  goods,  and  flaxseed,  rank  next 
in  importance. 

Most  of  the  fisheries  are  carried  on  from  the  New  England 
states,  and  in  New  England  ships.  The  whale-fishery  is  prose- 
cuted in  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  chiefly  south  of  the  line,  for  the 
right  or  black  whale,  and  in  the  Southern,  Indian,  and  Pacific 
oceans,  for  the  spermaceti  whale.  In  the  year  1836,  144,680 
tons  of  shipping  were  employed  in  this  business ;  and  in  the 
course  of  the  year  1836,  spermaceti  and  whale  oil  was  brought 
home,  of  the  value  of  about  5,700,000  dollars.  Seal  oil  and 
furs  are  also  obtained  in  the  Antarctic  seas  by  these  adventurous 
seamen. 

The  fishery  is  carried  on  chiefly  from  the  ports  of  Nantucket 
and  New  Bedford,  and  also,  but  on  a  less  scale,  from  New  Lon- 
don, Sag  Harbour,  Warren,  Bristol,  Hudson,  &c.  About  10,000 
men  are  engaged  in  it,  and  the  seamen  are  paid,  not  by  fixed 
wages,  but  by  a  certain  share  in  the  profits  of  the  voyage. 
Those  in  the  Pacific  and  Southern  oceans  are  generally  absent 
from  two  to  three  years  at  a  time. 

The  cod-fishery  is  pursued  on  the  banks  and  coasts  of  New- 
foundland, and  on  the  Labrador  coasts.  It  employs  upwards  of 
60,000  tons  of  small  craft,  some  of  which  make  several  trips  a 
year ;  those  on  the  coast-fisheries  generally  remain  longer.  The 
produce  of  this  fishery  may  be  estimated  at  from  1,200,000  to 
1,500,000  dollars  a  year.  The  mackerel  fishery  employs  about 
50,000  tons  of  shipping,  and  produces  about  2,000,000  dollars 
annually. 

No  part  of  the  world  presents  such  an  extensive  river  com- 
merce. Steam-vessels,  a  grand  improvement,  first  introduced 
in  America,  ply  on  all  the  principal  rivers,  bays,  lakes,  &c. 
The  Mississippi  river  and  its  tributaries  alone  are  traversed  by 
300  steam-boats,  all  of  which  make  several  voyages  every  year. 
The  great  land-locked  bays  of  the  coast  have  been  coivnected  by 
a  chain  of  canals,  affording  a  safe  internal  water-route  from 
Narragansett  Bay  to  Albemarle  Sound.  The  eastern  and  west- 
ern waters  have  been  united  by  several  channels,  which  cither 
turn  the  Alleghanies  or  surmount  their  summits.  The  waters 
of  the  lakes  and  the  Mississippi  have  been  connected  at  various 
points,  and  the  obstacles  in  the  navigation  of  the  most  important 
rivers  have  been  overcome  by  removing  the  bars  or  ledges  which 


UNITED    STATES.  61 

obstructed  their  channels,  or  by  side-cuts,  locks,  and  dams.  The 
whole  length  of  this  artificial  navigation  is  not  less  than  3500 
miles  ;  all  of  which,  with  one  or  two  trifling  exceptions,  has 
been  executed  in  the  short  space  of  20  years. 

The  Americans  have  equally  surpassed  all  other  people  in  the 
number  and  extent  of  their  rail-roads,  having,  in  less  than  ten 
years,  constructed  nearly  2500  miles  of  these  artificial  levels, 
over  which  carriages  are  propelled  by  locomotive  steam-engines 
at  the  rate  of  from  15  to  20  miles  an  hour.  Although  this  con- 
trivance is  less  adapted  than  canals  to  the  conveyance  of  bulky 
articles,  yet  it  possesses  some  advantages  over  that  mode  of 
transportation,  such  as  that  of  not  being  interrupted  by  ice,  and 
of  being  suited  to  certain  localities  in  which  artificial  water  com- 
munication would  be  impracticable. 

The  employment  of  steam-power  is  probably  greater  in  this 
country  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  world,  and  forms  one  of  the 
principal  elements  of  American  prosperity.  1300  steam-boats 
have  been  built  since  the  year  1807,  of  which  800  now  exist; 
and  the  number  of  steam  engines  in  the  United  States,  employed 
in  steam-boats,  locomotive  rail-road  cars,  and  for  various  manu- 
facturing purposes,  is  not  less  than  3000. 

To  the  state  governments  is  committed  that  branch  of  legisla- 
tion which  relates  to  the  regulation  of  local  concerns.  These 
bodies  make  and  alter  the  laws  which  regard  property  and  private 
rights,  appoint  judges  and  civil  officers,  impose  taxes  for  state 
purposes,  and  exercise  all  other  rights  and  powers  not  vested  in 
the  federal  government  by  positive  enactment.  They  are,  in 
their  composition,  very  similar  to  the  federal  government. 

The  legislature  consists  always  of  two  branches,  both  of  which 
are  returned  by  the  same  electors ;  and  these  electors  may  be  said 
to  comprise  the  whole  adult  white  population,  the  usual  qualifi- 
cations being  citizenship,  with  one  or  two  years'  residence,  and 
payment  of  taxes. 

In  North  Carolina,  representatives  are  chosen  by  the  whole 
resident  free  citizens  who  pay  taxes,  but  senators  only  by  free- 
holders ;  in  New  Jersey  and  Virginia,  the  right  of  suffrage  for 
both  houses  is  limited  to  persons  holding  a  small  amount  of 
landed  property ;  in  Maryland  the  senators  are  chosen  by  dele- 
gates named  for  the  purpose  by  the  people. 

In  all  the  states,  the  period  for  which  the  representatives  serve 
is  either  one  or  two  years.  The  elections  are  biennial  in  Dela- 
ware, South  Carolina,  Tennessee,  Louisiana,  Illinois,  Missouri, 
and  Arkansas,  and  annual  in  the  other  states. 

The  shortest  period  for  which  the  senators  serve,  in  any  state, 
is  one  year,  and  the  longest  five.  In  Maine,  New  Hampshire, 
6  n 


62  NORTH   AMERICA. 

Massachusetts,  Rhode  Island,  Connecticut,  New  Jersey,  North 
Carolina,  and  Georgia,  the  senators  hold  their  office  for  one  year 
only ;  in  Ohio,  Tennessee,  and  Michigan,  for  two  years ;  in  Mis- 
sissippi, Alabama,  and  Indiana,  for  three  years ;  in  New  York, 
Pennsylvania,  Delaware,  Virginia,  South  Carolina,  Kentucky, 
Louisiana,  Illinois,  Missouri,  and  Arkansas,  for  four  years;  and 
in  Maryland,  for  five  years.  Except  in  Maryland,  when  the 
senate  of  any  state  serves  for  more  than  one  year,  it  is  renewed 
by  parts  or  divisions,  one-third  of  the  members  going  out  annu- 
ally when  they  serve  for  three  years,  and  one-fourth  when  they 
serve  for  four.  In  some  cases,  however,  when  the  senators 
serve  for  four  years,  the  renewal  is  by  halves  every  two  years. 

The  United  States  are  more  distinguished  for  the  general  diffu- 
sion of  knowledge,  than  for  eminence  in  literature  or  science. 
The  means  of  common  education  are  widely  extended,  and  there 
are  numerous  seminaries  of  learning  throughout  the  country, 
though  there  are  no  literary  establishments  on  so  large  a  scale 
as  many  in  Europe. 

As  a  general  government,  the  United  States  have  done  but 
little  for  the  interests  of  public  instruction,  except  that  they  reserve 
for  the  purpose  one  section  in  every  township  of  their  new  lands, 
besides  other  reservations,  for  colleges.  This  highly  important 
subject  has,  perhaps,  been  better  attended  to,  by  being  left  to  the 
individual  states  and  to  private  citizens. 

The  number  of  universities  and  colleges  in  the  United  States 
is  93;  of  medical  schools,  28 ;  of  law  schools,  eight;  of  theological 
seminaries,  37.  The  country  does  not  yet,  however,  furnish  the 
scholar  with  those  facilities  for  a  finished  learned  education  which 
are  afforded  by  the  scientific  and  literary  establishments  of  Europe; 
and  the  want  of  good  libraries  is  sensibly  felt  by  every  one  who 
has  attempted  much  learned  research. 

Most  of  the  states  of  the  Union  have  made  some  legislative 
provision  for  common  school  instruction,  and  in  some  states 
large  funds  are  set  apart  for  this  purpose.  Private  schools 
and  academies  of  the  higher  order,  are  quite  numerous,  especially 
in  New  England ;  so  that  few  grow  up  without  enjoying  the 
means  of  elementary  instruction,  or,  if  they  desire  it,  of  a  more 
extended  liberal  education. 

There  is  no  established  church  in  the  United  States,  religion 
being  left  to  the  voluntary  choice  of  the  people.  No  sect  is 
favoured  by  the  laws  beyond  another ;  it  being  an  essential  prin- 
ciple in  the  national  and  state  governments,  that  legislation  may 
of  right  interfere  in  the  concerns  of  public  worship  only  so  far  as 
to  protect  every  individual  in  the  unmolested  exercise  of  his 
choice. 


UNITED   STATES.  63 

Nor  is  any  legislative  provision  made  for  the  support  of  reli- 
gion, except  that,  in  Massachusetts,  the  legislature  is  enjoined  to 
require,  and  in  New  Hampshire  is  empowered  to  authorise,  the 
several  towns  and  parishes  to  make  adequate  provision,  at  their 
own  expense,  for  the  support  of  Protestant  ministers.  The  same 
was  the  case  in  Connecticut  until  1818,  when  it  was  abolished  by 
the  new  constitution.  But  in  all  the  other  states,  the  support  of 
religion  is  left  entirely  to  the  voluntary  zeal  of  its  professors. 

The  numbers  of  established  churches  or  congregations  are 
estimated  at  over  17,000,  and  the  ministers  at  about  15,000. 
The  Baptists  are  the  most  numerous  denomination.  The  Pres- 
byterians, including  Congregationalists,  are  estimated  as  second 
in  numerical  amount ;  and  the  Methodists,  Episcopalians,  Roman 
Catholics,  Universalists,  Lutherans,  Christians,  German  Re- 
formed, and  Friends  or  Quakers,  probably  rank  in  point  of 
numbers  in  the  order  in  which  they  are  mentioned  ;  besides,  there 
are  many  other  sects  respectable  in  point  of  numbers. 

There  are  no  early  enumerations  of  the  population  on  which 
much  reliance  can  be  placed ;  but,  in  1740,  the  number  was  esti- 
mated at  1,000,000.  A  regular  decennial  census,  taken  since 
1790,  gave,  at  that  period,  3,929,827;  in  1800,  5,305,925;  in 
1810,  7,239,814;  in  1820,  9,638,131;  in  1830,  12,866,020; 
and  in  1840  (including  6100  men  in  the  United  States'  naval  ser- 
vice), 17,068,112.  It  is  most  interesting  to  consider,  as  the 
immensity  of  unoccupied  land  leaves  full  scope  for  this  power  of 
multiplication,  how  vast  the  future  numbers  may  be  with  which 
this  region  will  be  peopled,  and  which  will  render  it  much  the 
greatest  state  that  ever  existed  in  ancient  or  modern  times. 

It  is  calculated,  upon  good  grounds,  that  in  a  century  it  will 
contain  160,000,000 ;  and  still,  being  only  half  as  populous  as 
Britain  or  France,  leave  ample  scope  for  future  increase.  The 
Americans,  should  they  continue  united,  would  then  become  the 
greatest  nation  in  the  world ;  and  the  most  powerful  states  of 
Europe  would  rank  as  secondary  to  them. 

The  population,  exclusive  of  the  aboriginal  races  within  the 
United  States'  limits,  whose  numbers  are  not  comprised  in  the 
above  statements,  consists  of  three  classes  ;  whites,  free  coloured 
persons,  and  slaves,  whose  relative  proportions  at  six  different 
periods  are  here  given  : 

Whites.  Slaves.  Free  coloured. 

1790 3,172,464  697,897  59,465 

1800 4,304,489  893,041  108,395 

1810 5,862,004  1,191,364  186,446 

1820 7,861,710  1,538,038  232,524 

1830 10,537,378  2,009,043  319,599 

1840 14,195,575  2,486,368  386,069 

G  73 


64  NORTH   AMERICA. 

The  whole  number  of  aborigines  existing  at  present  within 
the  territorial  jurisdiction  of  the  United  States,  is  estimated  at 
332,498,  of  whom  about  80,000  reside  west  of  the  Rocky- 
Mountains,  and  the  residue  east  of  that  region.  Of  the  Indians 
residing  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  49,365  are  east  of  the 
Mississippi  river,  of  whom  36,950  are  under  treaty  stipulations 
to  remove  westward  of  that  stream,  51,327  have  removed  from 
the  east  to  the  west  side  of  the  Mississippi,  and  are  settled  in  the 
Western  or  Indian  territory,  assigned  to  them  by  the  govern- 
ment of  the  United  States ;  and  the  remainder  are  indigenous 
Indians,  nowise  under  the  control  of  our  government :  of  these, 
the  principal  are  the  Sioux,  Pawnees,  Comanches,  Minatarees, 
Blackfeet,  and  Assiniboines. 

The  most  humane  exertions  have  constantly  been  in  operation 
on  the  part  of  the  general  government,  to  preserve  the  race  from 
extinction,  by  severe  provisions  to  prevent  their  obtaining  ardent 
spirits,  and  by  unwearied  efforts  to  train  them  to  the  arts  and 
agriculture,  and  to  impart  to  them  the  blessings  of  education  and 
Christianity. 

Under  the  system  adopted  by  the  government,  agents  and  sub- 
agents,  interpreters  and  mechanics,  are  employed  among  the  dif- 
ferent Indian  tribes,  to  carry  these  purposes  into  effect ;  and  the 
President  is  authorized  to  cause  the  stores  of  the  licensed  traders 
to  be  searched,  and  if  ardent  spirits  are  found  among  the  articles 
for  sale,  the  whole  goods  are  forfeited  to  the  government. 

The  territory  of  the  confederacy  is  at  present  divided  into 
twenty-six  states,  two  territories,  and  one  Federal  district,  which 
contains  the  seat  of  government.  This  does  not  include  the  ex- 
tensive tract  assigned  to  the  Indians,  called  the  Indian  Terri- 
tory, the  region  west  of  the  Missouri  and  north  of  the  Platte, 
and  that  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  in  which  there  is  no 
white  population,  and  which  has  received  no  political  organiza- 
tion or  official  name. 

The  states  are  divided  for  municipal  purposes  into  small  sec- 
tions, styled  counties,  except  in  South  Carolina,  where  they  are 
called  districts,  and  in  Louisiana,  where  they  are  called  parishes. 
In  the  states  of  New  England,  in  New  York,  Pennsylvania, 
New  Jersey,  Ohio,  Indiana,  and  Michigan,  the  counties  are  sub- 
divided into  townships,  often  called  towns,  and  in  Delaware  into 
hundreds. 


EASTERN   STATES.  65 

THE  EASTERN,  OR  NEW  ENGLAND  STATES. 

New  England  comprises  the  six  states  situated  east  of  the 
Hudson,  viz.,  Maine,  New  Hampshire,  Vermont,  Massachusetts, 
Rhode  Island,  and  Connecticut.  The  inhabitants  are  almost  ex- 
clusively of  unmixed  English  origin,  and  though  never  united  as 
a  political  whole,  they  have  at  different  periods  been  connected 
for  their  common  interests. 

From  the  earliest  settlement  of  their  country,  they  have  en- 
joyed peculiar  advantages  for  literary  and  religious  instruction, 
and,  trained  to  habits  of  industry,  economy,  and  enterprise,  by 
the  circumstances  of  their  peculiar  situation,  as  well  as  by  the 
dangers  of  prolonged  wars,  they  present  traits  of  character 
which  are  considered  as  remarkable  abroad  as  they  are  common 
at  home. 

The  surface  of  the  country  is  infinitely  varied.  In  the  interior 
it  is  mountainous,  with  fertile  valleys  between.  The  land  along 
the  sea-shore  presents  in  general  an  irregular  surface,  consisting 
of  hills  and  ridges,  with  flats  of  moderate  extent.  The  inland 
portions  towards  the  mountains  present  an  almost  constant  suc- 
cession of  short  hills  and  narrow  valleys.  There  are  no  exten- 
sive plains  throughout  the  whole  of  New  England.  Much  of  the 
soil  is  good,  yet  in  general  it  requires  diligent  cultivation,  and 
compels  the  farmer  to  use  great  industry  to  procure  tolerable 
crops ;  and  although  it  well  repays  the  labour  of  the  husband- 
man, it  is  on  the  whole  less  fruitful  than  many  other  parts  of  the 
United  States. 

Most  of  the  New  England  states  are  largely  engaged  in  manu- 
factures. The  cotton  factories,  in  particular,  employ  a  vast 
number  of  hands  and  a  great  amount  of  capital.  A  proof  of  the 
result  of  these  great  establishments  may  be  found  in  the  fact, 
that  30  years  ago  the  chief  cottons  of  the  United  States  were 
imported  from  India.  New  England  now  sends  her  manufac- 
tured cottons  there,  and  finds  the  trade  profitable.  Since  the 
manufacturing  system  has  prevailed,  this  part  of  the  Union  has 
rapidly  increased  in  population  and  business. 

The  New  Englanders  are  extensively  engaged  in  the  bank  and 
whale  fisheries.  They  carry  on,  also,  an  active  commerce  with 
all  parts  of  the  world ;  their  ships  spread  their  sails  in  every  sea, 
and  their  lumber  manufactures  and  the  produce  of  their  fisheries 
are  extensively  exported.  Almost  every  village  carries  on  some 
handicraft,  and  the  farmer  often  employs  the  long  winter  even- 
ings in  some  gainful  task.  Thus  are  produced  many  little  ob- 
jects which  although  in  appearance  of  small  value,  yet  in  the 

6  *  75 


66  NORTH   AMERICA 

aggregate  constitute  a  source  of  considerable  wealth  to  the  com- 
munity, and  are  produced  to  such  an  extent  as  almost  to  rival  in 
value  the  products  of  the  large  manufacturing  establishments. 

From  the  first  settlement  of  the  country,  the  inhabitants  of 
New  England  have  been  a  religious  people.  The  entire  free- 
dom of  opinion  enjoyed  by  them  has  led  to  a  diversity  of  reli- 
gious denominations.  In  almost  every  town  and  village  are 
several  places  of  public  worship  belonging  to  the  different  sects 
common  in  the  country,  among  which  are  Congregationalists, 
Baptists,  Episcopalians,  Methodists,  Unitarians,  &c. 

Education  is  more  universal  here  than  in  any  part  of  the 
world.  It  is  exceedingly  hard  to  find  persons  of  mature  age 
who  have  not  been  instructed  in  the  common  branches  of  school 
learning.  Institutions  of  learning  and  education  were  establish- 
ed at  an  early  period  by  the  first  settlers  of  New  England,  some 
of  which  at  the  present  day  are  the  most  respectable  and  effi- 
cient in  the  Union. 

The  population  of  New  England  has  been  gradually  increas- 
ing. In  1700  it  was  about  120,000,  and  in  1755  was  estimated 
at  345,000,  not  including  the  troops  at  that  time  in  the  provinces. 
The  amount  in  1820  was  1,659,854  ;  in  1830,  1,955,207  ;  and 
in  1840,  2,234,822  souls;  of  whom  2,212,165  were  whites, 
22,633  free  coloured,  and  24  slaves. 


STATE  OF  MAINE. 


Maine  is  the  most  northern  and  eastern  of  the  United  States. 
Previous  to  the  year  1820,  it  formed  a  part  of  the  commonwealth 
of  Massachusetts,  at  which  period  it  was  received  into  the 
Union  as  an  independent  state.  Maine  is  in  length  from  north 
to  south  about  216  miles,  and  from  east  to  west  162  ;  the  area 
is  differently  estimated  at  from  32,000  to  35,000  square  miles. 
On  the  sea-coast,  the  country  is  generally  level ;  at  some  dis- 
tance in  the  interior,  hilly ;  and  in  the  central  parts  of  the  state 
are  many  mountains  of  considerable  elevation. 

The  principal  rivers  are  the  St.  John's,with  its  branches,  the 
Allagash,  Walloostook,  and  Aroostook ;  and  the  Penobscot, 
Kennebeck,  Androscoggin,  Saco,  Pleasant,  Damariscotta,  and 
Union  rivers. 

The  sea-coast  of  Maine  is  remarkably  indented  with  bays  and 
inlets,  which  afford  great  facilities  for  navigation  and  commerce. 
The  principal  are  Casco,  Penobscot,  Frenchman's,  Englishman's 
Machias,  and  Passamaquoddy  bays. 


MAINE.  67 

The  lakes  are  so  numerous,  that  it  is  estimated  one-sixth  of 
the  surface  of  the  state  consists  of  water,  and  indeed  they  form 
one  of  the  characteristic  features  of  the  country.  The  most 
noted  are  Moosehead,  Umbagog,  Sebago,  the  Schoodic  lakes,  and 
Lake  Chesuncook. 

The  soil  on  the  coast  is  various,  and  of  but  moderate  fertility  : 
in  the  interior,  most  of  the  land  is  more  productive  ,*  and  some 
of  it,  especially  on  the  Kennebeck  and  Penobscot  rivers,  is  fer- 
tile, and  well  adapted  to  agriculture  and  grazing.  One  of  the 
most  important  productions  of  this  state  is  white-pine  timber, 
which  is  found  chiefly  on  the  Upper  Kennebeck  and  Penobscot 
rivez's,  and  also  on  the  Allagash. 

The  value  of  the  lumber  cut  and  sawed  annually  is  estimated 
at  $10,000,000;  the  yearly  amount  of  the  wool  grown, 
$2,000,000  ;  and  of  lime  manufactured  in  the  state,  $1,000,000. 
The  total  shipping  belonging  to  the  state  amounts  to  282,285 
tons,  and  about  50,000  tons  are  annually  built.  The  value  of 
imports  in  the  year  1839  was  $982,724 ;  of  exports,  $895,485, 
of  which  all  but  $17,051  was  of  domestic  produce. 

The  constitution  makes  it  the  duty  of  the  legislature  to  require 
the  several  towns  to  make  suitable  provision,  at  their  own  ex- 
pense, for  the  support  of  public  schools,  and  to  encourage  and 
suitably  endow  academies,  colleges,  and  seminaries  of  learning. 
In  pursuance  of  this  provision,  each  town  is  required  by  law  to 
raise  annually  a  sum  equal  to  forty  cents  for  each  inhabitant, 
which  is  distributed  among  the  town  schools  in  the  ratio  of  the 
number  of  scholars  in  each.  Further  grants  are  also  made  by 
the  state  in  aid  of  their  support. 

There  are  in  the  state  30  academies,  a  Baptist  college  at 
Waterville,  a  Congregationalist  theological  seminary  in  Bangor, 
a  Wesleyan  theological  seminary  at  Readfield,  and  Bowdoin  Col- 
lege, with  a  medical  school,  at  Brunswick.  The  principal  reli- 
gious denominations  are  Baptists,  Congregationalists,  and  Metho- 
dists ;  there  are  also  Universalists,  Roman  Catholics,  Episcopa- 
lians, &c. 

All  of  the  towns  are  in  the  southern  part  of  the  state,  in 
which,  indeed,  nearly  the  whole  of  the  population  is  concentrated. 
There  are  some  settlements  on  the  St.  John's,  in  the  northern 
part,  which  is,  however,  at  present  under  British  jurisdiction, 
and  through  which  there  is  a  road  leading  from  Frederickton,  in 
New  Brunswick,  to  the  river  St.  Lawrence.  The  central  part 
is  almost  wholly  uninhabited,  and  covered  with  primitive  forests, 
which  are  visited  only  by  hunters  and  lumberers. 

g*  n 


68  NORTH   AMERICA. 


POPULATION  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS. 

In  1765  20,788  increase. 

1790  96,540          From  1765  to  1790  75,752 

1800  151,719  1790  to  1800  55,179 

1810  228,705  1800  to  1810   76,986 

1820  298,335  1810  to  1820  69,630 

1830  399,455  1820  to  1830   101,120 

1840  501,793  1830  to  1840  102,338 

Of  the  above  population  of  1840,  there  were,  white  males, 
252,989  ;  white  females,  247,449  ;deaf  and  dumb,  235  ;  blind, 
190.     Total  whites,  500,438. — Free  coloured  persons  1355. 

The  city  of  Portland  is  the  largest  and  most  important  place 
in  the  state.  It  is  beautifully  situated  on  Casco  Bay,  is  well  laid 
out,  and  handsomely  built,  and  has  a  safe  and  capacious  harbour, 
which  is  defended  by  two  forts.  Upwards  of  57,000  tons  of 
shipping  belong  to  the  port. 

Here  are  six  banks,  sixteen  churches,  a  court-house,  theatre, 
an  athena3um,  with  a  public  library ;  and  the  population,  which 
in  1830  was  12,601,  amounted  in  the  year  1840  to  15,218. 
The  city  of  Bangor,  the  most  important  place  on  the  Penobscot, 
has  trebled  its  population  since  1830  :  it  is  at  present  about 
10,000.  From  300,000,000  to  400,000,000  feet  of  lumber  are 
supposed  to  be  annually  exported  from  this  place. 

Augusta,  the  capital  of  the  state,  occupies  both  sides  of  the 
Kennebec  river,  50  miles  from  its  mouth  :  it  contains  a  handsome 
state-house  of  granite,  and  an  United  States  Arsenal.  Below 
Augusta  are  Hallovvell  and  Gardiner,  both  flourishing  towns;  and 
at  the  head  of  ship  navigation,  and  about  15  miles  from  the  sea, 
is  Bath,  noted  for  its  ship-building.  From  Thomastown  are  ex- 
ported large  quantities  of  lime,  marble,  and  granite.  Some  of 
the  other  principal  towns  in  Maine,  are  Eastport,  Machias,  Calais, 
Orono,  Belfast,  Brunswick,  Saco,  and  York. 


STATE  OF  NEW  HAMPSHIRE. 


This  state  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Lower  Canada ;  on  the 
east  by  Maine  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean ;  south  by  Massachusetts ; 
and  west  by  Vermont.  It  is  in  length,  from  north  to  south,  about 
160  miles;  and  from  east  to  west,  70  is  about  the  average 
breadth.  It  is  in  area  9,491  square  miles.  The  sea-coast  of 
this  state,  is  but  18  miles  in  extent. 


NEW  HAMPSHIRE.  69 

The  country  on  the  coast  is  level :  in  the  interior,  the  surface 
is  greatly  diversified  by  hills  and  valleys,  and  contains  several 
mountains  of  considerable  height,  among  which  are  the  White 
Mountains,  the  most  elevated  of  any  in  the  New  England  states. 
The  other  considerable  elevations  are,  Moose  hillock,  Monadnock, 
Kearsarge,  Sunapee,  Ossipee,  &c. 

The  different  elevations  of  the  White  Mountains  are  distin- 
guished by  the  names  of  Washington,  Franklin,  Adams,  Jeffer- 
son, Madison,  Monroe,  and  Pleasant.  Mount  Washington  is 
6428  feet  in  height.  They  are  covered  with  snow  ten  months 
in  the  year,  and  are  often  seen  from  a  great  distance  at  sea.  The 
wild  and  sublime  character  of  their  scenery,  causes  them  to  be 
annually  visited  by  numerous  travellers. 

The  view  is  rendered  unusually  grand  and  interesting,  by  the 
magnitude  of  the  elevation,  and  the  extent  and  variety  of  the 
surrounding  scenery.  In  the  western  pass  of  these  mountains, 
there  is  a  remarkable  gap  called  the  Notch,  which  is  esteemed 
one  of  the  grandest  natural  curiosities  in  the  United  States.  To 
an  admirer  of  the  wonders  of  nature,  the  passage  through  the 
Notch,  and  the  views  from  the  summit,  afford  a  rich  repast. 

The  principal  rivers  of  New  England  have  their  origin,  either 
wholly  or  in  part,  in  this  state.  These  are,  the  Connecticut, 
Merrimack,  Androscoggin,  Saco,  and  Piscataqua.  The  other 
most  considerable  streams  are,  the  Upper  and  Lower  Amonoosuck, 
Sugar  river,  Ashuelot,  Contoocook,  Magallavvay,  and  Nashua. 
The  principal  lakes  are  the  Winnipiseogee,  Umbagog,  Ossipee, 
Sunapee,  Squam,  and  Newfound  lake. 

The  inhabitants  of  New  Hampshire  are  principally  engaged  in 
agriculture:  the  chief  products  are  Indian  corn,  wheat,  rye,  oats, 
barley,  flax,  &c. ;  and  horses  and  cattle,  beef,  pork,  butter,  cheese, 
&c.  are  largely  exported.  There  are  some  large  manufacturing 
establishments,  chiefly  in  the  southern  part  of  the  state.  In  1833, 
there  were  in  New  Hampshire,  60  cotton,  32  woollen,  609  grist, 
952  saw,  20  oil,  15  paper,  234  fulling,  and  236  carding-mills. 
Manufactures  are  also  carried  on  in  families  to  a  considerable 
extent,  and  some  vessels  are  employed  in  the  bank  and  shore 
fisheries ;  but  many  inhabitants  leave  the  state  every  year  in 
search  of  employment. 

The  mineral  resources  of  New  Hampshire  are  not  great.  Cop- 
per is  found  at  Franconia,  and  iron  is  abundant  at  Lisbon  and 
Franconia ;  black-lead  also  occurs  at  several  places,  particularly 
at  Bristol.  A  fine-grained  granite,  which  is  quarried  in  many 
places,  affords  an  excellent  building  material. 

About  eight  miles  from  the  coast  are  the  Isles  of  Shoals,  be- 
longing partly  to  New  Hampshire  and  partly  to  Maine.     They 


70  NORTH    AMERICA. 

lie  between  Portsmouth  and  Newburyport,  and  are  hardly  more 
than  a  cluster  of  rocks  rising  above  the  water.  The  inhabit- 
ants, about  100  in  number,  live  by  fishing;  and  in  connexion 
with  those  of  the  shore  in  their  immediate  neighbourhood,  who 
follow  the  same  mode  of  life,  are  the  most  rude  and  uncivilized 
beings  in  New  England,  except  the  Indians.  Efforts  have  re- 
cently been  made  to  improve  their  condition,  and  they  have  now 
a  meeting-house,  school,  &c. 

Common  schools  are  established  by  law  throughout  the  state, 
and  are  supported  in  part  by  town  taxes,  in  part  by  school  lands 
or  funds  arising  from  the  sale  of  them,  and  belonging  to  the 
towns,  and  in  part  also  by  the  proceeds  of  certain  state  taxes  ; 
the  number  of  free  school-houses  in  the  state  somewhat  exceeds 
1600 ;  and  there  are  41  academies,  attended  by  1600  pupils. 

Dartmouth  college,  in  Hanover,  is  a  well-endowed  institution, 
and  affords  instruction  in  the  common  branches  taught  in  the 
New  England  colleges.  The  principal  religious  denominations 
are  Congregationalists,  Baptists,  and  Methodists,  with  some 
Friends,  Presbyterians,  Episcopalians,  and  Roman  Catholics. 

POPULATION  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS. 


In  1730  . . .  12,000 
1749  ...  30,000 
1767  . . .  52,700 
1775  .. .  80,038 


In  1800  . . .  183,858 
1810  ...  214,460 
1820  . . .  244,161 
1830  . . .  269,328 
1840  . . .  284,574 


INCREASE. 

From  1790  to  1800  . . .  41,973 
1800  to  1810  . . .  30,602 
1810  to  1820  . . .  39,701 
1820  to  1830  . . .  25,167 
1830  to  1840  . . .  15,246 


Of  the  above  population  of  1840,  there  were,  white  males, 
136,004;  white  females,  148,032  ;  deaf  and  dumb,  200;  blind, 
156.     Total  whites,  284,036. — Free  coloured,  537  ;  slaves,  1. 

Portsmouth,  the  only  sea-port,  and  the  largest  town  in  the 
state,  is  situated  on  the  Piscataqua  river,  three  miles  from  the 
sea.  It  has  one  of  the  finest  harbours  in  the  world,  affording  40 
feet  water  in  the  channel  at  low  tide,  and  being  easily  accessible 
to  vessels  of  the  largest  size,  and  completely  landlocked.  It  is 
protected  by  several  forts. 

The  town  stands  on  a  peninsular  elevation,  sloping  towards 
the  harbour,  and  is  well  built.  It  contains  eight  churches,  seven 
banking-houses,  the  county  buildings,  &c,  and  is  well  supplied 
with  good  water  brought  from  the  neighbourhood.  Two  wooden 
bridges  have  been  built  across  the  Piscataqua,  one  of  which  is 
1750  feet  long.  There  is  here  a  navy-yard  belonging  to  the 
United  States,  situated  on  Navy  Island,  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river,  and  within  the  limits  of  Maine.  The  population  of  Ports- 
mouth in  1840  amounted  to  7884. 

Concord,  the  capital  of  the  state,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Mer- 


VERMONT.  71 

vimack  river,  is  handsomely  built  on  two  principal  streets.  Here 
are  the  state-house  and  state  prison,  besides  several  banks, 
churches,  hotels,  &c. ;  population  5063.  In  the  south-east  part 
of  the  state,  are  several  towns  largely  engaged  in  manufactures  : 
these  are,  Dover,  Somersworth,  Newmarket,  and  Exeter,  which, 
besides  its  mills  and  manufactures,  contains  Phillips's  Academy, 
a  well-known  and  respectable  seminary.  These  are  all  on  navi- 
gable rivers,  furnishing  fine  mill-seats  and  constant  communica- 
tion with  the  sea.  Nashua,  near  the  south  line  of  the  state, 
contains  several  large  cotton-mills;  its  population  in  1836  was 
5065,  having  rather  more  than  doubled  it  since  1830 :  Hanover, 
the  seat  of  Dartmouth  college,  Haverhill,  and  Lancaster,  are  towns 
of  between  2000  and  3000  inhabitants  ;  and  Amherst  and  Keene 
are  neat  thriving  towns,  between  the  Merrimack  and  Connecticut 
rivers. 


STATE  OF  VERMONT. 


Vermont  is  bounded  north  by  Lower  Canada ;  east  by  New 
Hampshire ;  south  by  Massachusetts ;  west  by  New  York,  from 
which  it  is  separated,  in  part,  by  Lake  Champlain.  It  is  157 
miles  in  length,  from  north  to  south ;  90  miles  in  breadth  on  the 
northern,  and  40  on  the  southern  boundary ;  and  contains  an 
area  of  8000  square  miles. 

The  Green  Mountains,  from  which  the  state  derives  its  name, 
on  account  of  the  evergreens  with  which  they  are  covered,  occupy 
a  large  part  of  the  state  ;  and  most  of  its  surface  is  uneven.  The 
range  passes  through  its  whole  length,  about  half-way  between 
Lake  Champlain  and  the  Connecticut  river. 

From  these  mountains  many  streams  take  their  rise :  the  most 
important  are,  Otter  creek,  Onion  river,  La  Moille,  and  Misisque, 
which  empty  into  Lake  Champlain,  on  the  west;  the  White, 
Pasumpsic,  and  West  rivers,  which  flow  into  the  Connecticut,  on 
the  east.  , 

The  soil  is  fertile  ;  and  all  sorts  of  grain,  suited  to  the  climate, 
are  produced  in  great  abundance.  Wool  is  becoming  an  impor- 
tant product  here.  Cattle  of  various  kinds  are  raised,  with  great 
facility ;  and  nowhere  is  finer  beef  to  be  seen,  than  is  fed  on  the 
rich  white  clover  pastures  of  Vermont.  The  butter  and  cheese 
are  well  known  for  their  excellence. 

Vermont  is  entirely  in  the  interior;  yet,  by  the  system  of 
internal  improvement,  the  Champlain  canal,  and  the  lake,  vessels 


72  NORTH    AMERICA. 

and  steam-boats  have  brought  her  territory  in  contiguity  with  the 
sea.  Part  of  the  trade  goes  by  canal  to  Albany,  and  part  down 
the  lake  to  Montreal. 

Iron  occurs  in  great  abundance,  and  is  extensively  wrought. 
Sulphuret  of  iron,  or  pyrites,  is  found  at  Stafford  and  Shrews- 
bury, from  which  3,000,000  pounds  of  copperas  are  annually 
manufactured,  worth  from  70,000  to  75,000  dollars.  About  20 
cotton-mills  produce  annually  three  and  a  half  million  yards  of 
cloth,  and  112,000  pounds  of  yarn.  Domestic  fabrics  of  linen 
and  woollen  are  made  in  almost  every  family. 

In  1836,  the  constitution  was  amended  by  the  establishment 
of  two  houses,  styled  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives. 
The  Legislative  houses,  the  Governor,  Lieutenant-Governor,  and 
Executive  Council,  are  chosen  annually  by  the  people.  Each 
town  has  a  right  to  send  one  representative  to  the  General 
Assembly.     The  judges  are  chosen  annually  by  that  body. 

The  Council  of  Censors  is  chosen  once  every  seven  years,  for 
the  term  of  one  year,  by  popular  vote.  It  is  their  duty  to 
examine  whether  there  have  been  any  violations  of  the  constitu- 
tion, and  whether  the  Legislative  and  Executive  branches  have 
done  their  duty,  and  also  to  propose  any  alterations  in  the  con- 
stitution. 

The  towns  are  divided  into  school  districts,  each  of  which  is 
required  by  law  to  support  a  school  at  least  three  months  during 
the  year.  An  annual  tax  is  levied  for  their  support,  and  the  rent 
of  the  reserves  of  school  land  in  each  township,  called  here  the 
school  rights,  is  also  distributed  among  the  districts  in  proportion 
to  the  number  of  children  in  each,  to  aid  in  the  same  purpose. 
The  number  of  school  districts  is  2800. 

There  are  30  academies  and  county  grammar-schools,  for  the 
support  of  which  similar  reservations  were  made :  and  the  Uni- 
versity of  Vermont,  at  Burlington,  is  endowed  in  the  same  way. 
Middlebury  college  has  been  founded  by  private  funds.  These 
institutions  are  attended  by  nearly  300  students,  and  there  is  a 
medical  school  connected  with  the  former.  The  most  numerous 
religious  denominations  are,  the  Congregationalists,  Baptists,  and 
Methodists ;  and  there  are  some  Episcopalians,  Christians,  Uni- 
versalists,  and  Roman  Catholics. 

POPULATION  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS. 

In  1790 85,539  increase. 

1800 154,465  From  1790  to  1800 68,S26 

1810 217,895      1800  to  1810 63,430 

1820 235,764      1810  to  1820 17,869 

1830 280,657      1820  to  1830 24,888 

1840 291,948      1830  to  1840 11,291 


VERMONT.  73 

Of  the  above  population  of  1840,  there  were,  white  males, 
146,378  ;  white  females,  144,840  ;  deaf  and  dumb,  127;  blind, 
103.     Total  whites,  291,218.— Free  coloured,  730. 

The  capital  of  the  state  is  the  little  town  of  Montpelier,  at  the 
junction  of  the  north  and  south  branches  of  the  Onion  river. 
Here  is  a  handsome  state-house  of  granite,  recently  erected, 
together  with  the  public  buildings  of  the  county.  West  of  the 
mountains  are  several  flourishing  towns,  which  enjoy  the  advan- 
tage of  an  easy  communication  with  Lake  Champlain,  and 
through  it  with  the  Hudson  and  St.  Lawrence. 

St.  Albans  is  a  neatly  built  town  on  a  small  bay,  with  an  active 
and  increasing  trade.  Further,  south  is  Burlington,  the  largest 
town  in  the  state,  and  the  principal  commercial  place  on  the  lake. 
It  is  pleasantly  situated  on  a  gently  rising  slope,  overlooking  the 
lake,  and  it  has  an  excellent  harbour.  Here  are  the  county 
buildings  and  the  University  of  Vermont,  and  at  the  falls  of  the 
Onion  river  there  are  some  manufactories. 

Middlebury,  on  Otter  creek,  contains  some  mills  and  a  college. 
Marble  of  a  good  quality  is  quarried  here.  Higher  up  the 
stream  is  Rutland,  containing  quarries  of  marble,  several  manu- 
facturing establishments,  and  the  public  buildings  of  the  county. 
On  the  same  side  of  the  mountains,  in  the  southern  part  of  the 
state,  is  Bennington,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  which  are  found 
limestone,  marble,  and  iron.  Here  are  some  mills  and  iron- 
works. 

Crossing  the  mountains  and  entering  the  rich  valley  of  the 
Connecticut,  we  find  a  number  of  thriving  towns  and  neat  villages, 
lining  its  fertile  meadows.  Brattleboro'  is  a  busy  place,  contain- 
ing some  manufactories.  The  Vermont  asylum  for  the  insane 
has  been  built  here.  Windsor  is  a  neat  town  in  a  picturesque 
situation,  with  the  lofty  peaks  of  Ascutney  Mountain  towering 
above  it ;  it  contains  a  state  prison  built  of  granite. 

At  the  little  village  of  Bellows'  Falls,  the  Connecticut  river  is 
suddenly  contracted  from  300  to  16  or  20  feet  wide,  and  rushes 
with  great  impetuosity  through  a  narrow  chasm  cut  in  the  solid 
rock,  having  a  fall  of  nearly  50  feet  in  a  half  a  mile.  A  canal 
with  nine  locks  enables  boats  to  pass  round  this  obstruction  to 
the  higher  parts  of  the  river.  Woodstock  lies  a  little  off  from 
the  river ;  and  higher  up,  but  on  the  Connecticut,  is  Norwich ; 
civil  engineering  and  other  practical  sciences  receive  particular 
attention  in  the  institution  here,  styled  the  Norwich  University. 

7  S3 


74  NORTH   AMERICA. 

COMMONWEALTH  OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 

This  state  is  bounded  north  by  Vermont  and  New  Hampshire, 
east  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  south  by  Rhode  Island  and  Connec- 
ticut, and  west  by  New  York.  The  average  extent,  from  north 
to  south,  io  70  miles;  and  from  east  to  west,  140:  area,  7800 
square  miles.  The  Green  Mountains  range  through  the  central 
parts  of  the  state,  from  north  to  south.  The  highest  peaks  are 
Saddle  Mt.,  Taghkonic,  &c. 

Massachusetts  has  no  large  rivers  wholly  within  her  bounds. 
The  Merrimack  passes  out  of  New  Hampshire  into  the  northern 
division  of  the  state,  emptying  into  the  sea  at  Newburyport. 
The  Connecticut,  in  traversing  it  from  north  to  south,  nearly 
bisects  the  state.  The  Housatonic,  Charles,  and  Ipswich,  Ne- 
ponset,  and  Taunton,  though  they  have  short  courses,  are  plea- 
sant streams.  The  deep  bay,  between  Cape  Ann  and  Cape  Cod, 
which  has  given  name  to  the  state,  has  caused  it  to  be  known  in 
the  other  states  by  the  name  of  the  Bay  State.  Cape  Ann 
bounds  it  on  the  north,  and  Cape  Cod  on  the  south. 

Agriculture  receives  here  great  attention,  and  is  conducted 
with  a  superior  degree  of  skill  and  intelligence.  Massachusetts 
is  no  doubt  the  best  cultivated  state  in  the  Union.  Both  the 
legislature  and  agricultural  societies  have  made  great  efforts  to 
encourage  a  skilful  and  thrifty  husbandry,  and  to  introduce  the 
best  foreign  breeds  of  sheep  and  cattle.  Commerce,  manufac- 
tures, and  the  fisheries,  are,  however,  the  great  objects  of  pursuit. 

The  shipping  belonging  to  this  state  amounts  to  about  526,000 
tons  ;  being  greater  than  that  of  any  other  state,  and  nearly  one- 
fourth  of  the  whole  tonnage  of  the  country.  The  value  of  the 
imports  for  the  year  1839  was  19,385,000  dollars;  of  exports, 
9,276,000.  There  is  also  an  active  and  extensive  coasting  trade 
carried  on  with  all  parts  of  the  Union :  the  imports  being  chiefly 
raw  produce  and  provisions,  and  the  exports  manufactured 
articles. 

In  1837,  the  value  of  manufactures  of  all  descriptions  amount- 
ed to  upwards  of  86  million  dollars,  of  which  boots  and  shoes 
reached  the  sum  of  near  15  million  dollars.  Cotton  and  woollen 
goods  were  next  in  amount ;  the  fisheries,  cotton-printing,  lea- 
ther and  morocco,  nails,  brads,  &c. ;  oil,  clothing,  &c,  bonnets, 
and  books  and  stationary,  were  among  the  next  most  prominent. 

The  persons  employed  in  manufacturing  were  upwards  of 
117,000,  and  the  capital  employed  near  55  million  dollars.  The 
whole  annual  product  of  the  agricultural,  commercial,  and 
manufacturing  industry  of  the  state,  is  probably  not  less  than 
120  million  dollars. 


MASSACHUSETTS.  75 

Ship-building  is  extensively  carried  on.  The  shipping  built 
annually  amounts  to  35,000  tons.  And  salt  is  also  manufactured 
from  sea-water,  chiefly  by  solar  evaporation,  to  the  amount  of 
about  500,000  bushels  a  year. 

Various  important  works  of  internal  improvement  have  been 
executed,  which  afford  great  convenience  and  facility  to  travel- 
lino-  and  transportation :  they  are  the  Middlesex  canal,  which 
extends  from  Boston  to  Lowell,  26  miles  ;  the  Blackstone  canal, 
from  Worcester  to  Providence,  45  miles,  and  the  Hampshire  and 
Hampden  canal,  20  miles  in  length,  is  a  continuation  of  the 
Farmington  canal,  from  Southwick,  on  the  Connecticut  line,  to 
Northampton. 

Rail-roads  have  been  constructed  from  Boston  to  Lowell,  25^ 
miles,  and  a  branch  to  Haverhill  of  18  miles;  likewise  a  con- 
tinuation from  Lowell  to  Nashua,  15  miles  long.  The  Boston 
and  Providence  rail-road  is  42  miles  long,  with  a  branch  of  10 
miles  to  Taunton,  which  has  been  extended  to  New  Bedford,  24 
miles  farther.  The  Boston  and  Worcester  rail-road  is  43  miles 
in  length.  The  Western  rail-road,  a  continuation  of  the  latter, 
extends  from  Worcester  to  Springfield,  through  Springfield  and 
A  Vest  Stockbridge  to  the  New  York  line,  117  miles,  where  it  will 
be  connected  with  Albany,  Hudson,  and  Troy,  by  roads  already 
in  progress.  The  Eastern  rail-road  runs  from  Boston,  through 
Salem  and  Newburyport,  to  the  New  Hampshire  line,  40  miles, 
where  it  joins  the  Portsmouth  and  Portland  rail-road. 

Her  literary,  religious,  and  charitable  institutions,  are  the 
pride  of  Massachusetts.  Within  a  few  years,  Boston  alone  has 
expended  nearly  two  millions  of  dollars  for  objects  of  that  cha- 
racter, exclusive  of  an  annual  expenditure  of  about  $270,000, 
for  the  support  of  public  and  private  schools.  There  are  also 
73  academies  in  the  state,  which,  with  the  private  schools,  are 
attended  by  30,000  scholars. 

Harvard  University,  at  Cambridge,  is  the  oldest  and  best  en- 
dowed institution  in  the  country;  it  has  a  library  of  51,000 
volumes,  and  instruction  is  given  by  30  teachers,  in  the  various 
branches  of  a  liberal  education :  law,  theological,  and  medical 
books,  are  connected  with  it.  Williams'  College,  at  Williams- 
town,  and  Amherst  College,  at  Amherst,  are  also  respectable 
institutions:  the  latter  has  a  library  of  12,500,  and  the  other 
one  of  7500  volumes. 

The  prevailing  religious  sect  is  the  Congregationalist ;  the 
Unitarians  and  Baptists  are  also  numerous  ;  after  these  come  the 
Methodists,  Universalists,  Episcopalians,  Christians,  Roman  Ca- 
tholics, and  Friends,  with  some  Presbyterians,  Swedenborgians, 
or  New  Jerusalem  Church,  and  Shakers. 

H  S5 


76  NORTH   AMERICA. 

POPULATION  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS. 

In  1701,  70,000;  in  1742,  164,000;  in  1763,  241,024;  in  1765,  227,926; 
in  1776,  384,094;  in  1784,  357,510. 

In  1790   348,787  increase. 

1800  422,845  From  1790  to  1800   44,058 

1810  472,040  1800  to  1810  49,195 

1820  523,287  1810  to  1820  51,247 

1830  610,408  1820  to  1830   87.121 

1840  737,699  1830  to  1840   127,291 

Of  the  above  population  of  1840,  there  were,  white  males, 
360,679  ;  white  females.  368,351  ;  deaf  and  dumb,  290 ;  blind, 
230.  Total  whites,  729,030.  Free  coloured  persons,  8668. 
Slaves  1. 

Boston,  the  capital  of  Massachusetts,  and  the  principal  city  of 
New  England,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  Boston  Bay,  with  a  safe 
and  commodious  harbour,  deep  enough  to  admit  the  largest  ves- 
sels, and  which  is  so  completely  landlocked  as  to  be  perfectly 
secure.  Several  forts,  erected  on  the  islands  in  the  harbour, 
command  the  approaches  to  the  city.  Besides  the  main  peninsula 
on  which  the  city  is  built,  it  comprises  another  peninsula,  called 
South  Boston,  connected  with  the  former  by  two  free  bridges ; 
and  the  island  of  East  Boston,  with  which  communication  is  kept 
up  by  steam  ferry-boats.  Four  wooden  bridges  also  connect  the 
city  with  Charlestown  and  Cambridge  ;  a  solid  causeway  of  earth 
unites  it  to  Brookline,  and  a  narrow  neck  of  land  which  has  been 
raised  and  widened  by  artificial  constructions,  joins  it  to  Rox- 
bury. 

The  population,  which  in  1800  was  24,937  ;  in  1820,  43,298, 
and  in  1830,  64,392,  amounted  in  1840  to  84,401  ;  but  if  the 
adjacent  towns  are  included,  which  in  fact  form  so  many  suburbs 
of  the  city,  the  population  exceeds  100,000.  The  state-house, 
fronting  a  fine  park  of  75  acres,  called  the  Common,  and  stand- 
ing on  the  most  elevated  part  of  the  city ;  the  market-house,  a 
handsome  granite  edifice,  two  stories  high,  536  feet  in  length, 
by  50  in  breadth  ;  the  court-house,  also  of  granite,  176  feet  long, 
57  high ;  the  city-hall,  or  old  state-house,  and  Faneuil-hall,  more 
interesting  from  historical  associations  than  from  their  architect- 
ural merits ;  and  the  Massachusetts  General  Hospital,  a  hand- 
some granite  building,  168  feet  in  length;  the  Institution  for  the 
Blind,  in  which  are  about  70  pupils ;  the  Boston  Athenseum, 
which  has  a  library  of  30,000  volumes,  and  a  picture-gallery ; 
the  Medical  School  of  Harvard  University ;  the  Eye  and  Ear 
Infirmary ;  the  Houses  of  Industry,  Reformation,  and  Correc- 
tion, also  deserve  mention. 

The  bridges  and  wharves  are  remarkable  for  their  great  length. 


NEW   ENGLAND. 


Whut:  Mountains — New  Hampshire. 


Whale  Fishery. — Cutting  up  a  Whale. 


Plymo'jil!— the  first  settled  town  in  New  England. 


NORTH  AMERICA. 


Bunker  Hill  Monument. 


MASSACHUSETTS.  77 

The  canal  bridge  is  2800  feet  long ;  the  West  Boston  Bridge, 
2760  feet,  and  some  of  the  others  exceed  1500  feet.  The  wharves 
have  been  constructed  in  a  somewhat  similar  manner.  Central 
wharf,  1380  feet  long,  by  150  wide,  contains  54  large  ware- 
houses, four  stories  high.  Long  wharf,  1800  feet  long,  by  200 
in  width,  has  76  warehouses  equally  spacious.  Commercial 
wharf  is  1100  feet,  by  380,  with  a  range  of  34  granite  ware- 
houses. 

As  a  commercial  city,  Boston  is  the  second  in  the  United  States, 
in  the  amount  of  its  business.  In  the  beginning  of  1836,  the 
shipping  belonging  to  the  port,  was  226,042  tons ;  annual  value 
of  imports,  16,000,000;  of  exports,  10,000,000  dollars.  The 
number  of  banking  institutions  is  28,  with  an  aggregate  capital 
of  24,980,000  dollars  ;  of  insurance  companies,  30,  with  a  capital 
of  about  $9,000,000.  This  city  has  ever  been  distinguished  for 
its  attention  to  education.'  The  free  schools  are,  the  Latin  school, 
the  High  school,  10  grammar  and  writing  schools,  74  primary 
schools,  and  one  African  school  for  blacks.  There  are  also 
numerous  private  schools  for  children  of  both  sexes.  The  Ame- 
rican Academy  of  Arts  and  Sciences,  the  Historical  Society,  and 
the  Natural  History  Society,  are  among  the  learned  societies. 
There  are  50  churches,  two  theatres,  an  Odeon,  &c. 

Charlestown,  which  is  connected  with  Boston  by  three  bridges, 
stands  on  a  lofty  peninsula,  the  centre  of  which  is  occupied  by 
Bunker  Hill.  Though  irregularly  built,  it  commands  many  fine 
views  of  the  harbour  and  the  surrounding  country.  The  Bunker 
Hill  Monument,  of  granite,  is  yet  unfinished.  It  will  form  an 
obelisk,  rising  to  the  height  of  220  feet  from  its  base,  which  is  50 
feet  square.  The  United  States'  Dock-yard,  comprising  a  num- 
ber of  store-houses,  arsenals,  barracks,  and  slips,  with  a  graving 
or  dry-dock,  built  of  hewn  granite,  was  constructed  in  1837. 
The  population  of  the  town  is  10,782.  Adjoining  Charlestown, 
is  Cambridge,  the  seat  of  Harvard  University,  with  8,127  inha- 
bitants. At  Watertown,  adjoining  Cambridge,  there  is  an  United 
States'  Arsenal. 

To  the  south-west,  is  the  little  town  of  Brighton,  noted  for  its 
cattle  market,  in  which  in  the  year  1835,  the  sales  of  cattle, 
calves,  .sheep,  and  swine,  amounted  to  1,878,032  dollars.  Lynn, 
a  neat  and  thriving  town,  whose  inhabitants,  beside  making 
2, 000, 000  pair  of  shoes  annually,  carry  on  the  cod  and  whale 
fisheries,  increased  its  population  from  1638,  in  1830,  to  9075  in 
1840.  Marblehead,  long  the  principal  seat  of  the  cod  fishery, 
has  of  late  turned  its  attention  partly  to  mechanical  industry, 
particularly  to  shoemaking,  which  occupies  the  winter  leisure  of 
many  of  its  hardy  fishermen.     About  60  sail  of  small  fishing- 


78  NORTH   AMERICA. 

vessels,  manned  by  about  500  men  and  boys,  are  owned  here. 
Population  5539. 

The  city  of  Salem,  with  15,162  inhabitants,  is  noted  for  the 
commercial  enterprise  and  industrious  spirit  of  its  citizens.  It 
was  long  largely  engaged  in  the  East  India  and  China  trade,  and 
its  coasting  and  foreign  trade  is  still  considerable ;  but  it  labours 
under  the  disadvantage  of  not  having  a  sufficient  depth  of  water 
for  the  largest  vessels.  The  inhabitants  have  lately  engaged  in 
the  whale  fishery,  in  which  they  employ  3000  tons ;  the  whole 
shipping  of  the  port  amounts  to  33,035  tons.  The  city  is  neatly 
built,  and  it  contains  an  Athenaeum,  a  Marine  Museum,  a  valuable 
collection  of  natural  and  artificial  curiosities,  belonging  to  the 
East  India  Marine  Society,  which  is  composed  wholly  of  nautical 
men  ;  nine  banking  institutions,  with  a  capital  of  about  2,000,000 
of  dollars ;  six  insurance  companies,  with  a  capital  of  950,000 
dollars ;  17  churches,  and  several  charitable  institutions.  The 
manufactures  are  also  considerable. 

Beverly,  connected  with  Salem  by  a  bridge  1500  feet  in  length, 
has  4686  inhabitants,  chiefly  occupied  in  commerce  and  the 
fisheries. 

Cape  Ann,  the  north  point  of  Massachusetts  Bay,  is  occupied 
by  the  fishing  town  of  Gloucester ;  tonnage  owned  here,  16,287, 
population,  6394.  A  few  miles  north  of  the  Cape,  is  the  hand- 
some town  of  Newburyport,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Merri- 
mack. Its  foreign  commerce  was  formerly  more  extensive  than 
it  is  at  present,  but  its  trade  is  still  important,  and  the  whale, 
mackerel,  and  cod  fisheries,  are  also  carried  on  from  this  place : 
tonnage,  22,264;  population,  7124. 

The  south  point  of  the  great  bay  from  which  the  state  takes  its 
name,  is  Cape  Cod,  a  long  irregular  peninsula,  of  75  miles  in 
length,  by  from  5  to  20  in  breadth.  It  consists  chiefly  of  hills 
of  white  sand,  mostly  destitute  of  vegetation.  The  cape  is  well 
inhabited,  and  supports  a  population  of  28,000,  the  majority  of 
which  subsists  by  the  fisheries  and  the  coasting-trade. 

South  of  Cape  Cod  is  the  island  of  Nantucket,  containing  the 
town  of  the  same  name,  with  9512  inhabitants.  The  island  is 
merely  a  sand-bank,  15  miles  in  length,  by  about  five  or  six  in 
breadth,  slightly  elevated  above  the  ocean.  There  are,  however, 
some  productive  spots.  The  inhabitants  are  distinguished  for 
their  enterprise.  They  have  74  ships  engaged  in  the  whale 
fishery,  and  a  considerable  number  of  small  vessels  in  the  coast- 
ing trade :  29,960  tons  of  shipping  are  owned  here,  and  2000 
men  and  boys  belonging  to  the  island  are  employed  in  naviga- 
tion. 

Martha's  Vineyard  is  inhabited  mostly  by  pilots  and  fishermen 


RHODE   ISLAND.  79 

but  some  salt,  and  woollen  cloths  are  made.  Holmes'  Hole,  a  safe 
and  capacious  harbour  on  the  northern  coast,  is  an  important 
station  for  ships  waiting  for  favourable  weather  to  pass  Cape  Cod. 
Population  of  the  island.  3860. 

New  Bedford  is  the  great  seat  of  the  whale-fishery.  It  is  a 
handsomely  built  town,  and  has  a  safe  and  capacious  harbour. 
The  population,  which  in  1830  amounted  to  7592,  in  the  year 
1840  was  12,585.  The  shipping  of  the  district,  which  includes 
several  other  towns  on  the  bay,  is  81,252  tons:  nearly  the 
whole  of  this  is  employed  in  the  whale-fishery.  There  are 
here  10  large  establishments  in  which  spermaceti  candles  are 
made  and  oil  is  prepared  ;  four  banks,  with  a  capital  of  1,300,000 
dollars;  three  insurance  offices,  14  churches  and  chapels,  an 
academy,  &c. 

Lowell  is  the  greatest  manufacturing  town  in  the  United  States : 
it  has  been  very  rapid  in  its  growth,  and  may  be  considered  the 
Manchester  of  America.  It  was  commenced  in  1813,  but  its 
principal  increase  dates  from  1822  :  it  now  contains  20,981 
inhabitants. 

Its  various  cotton  and  woollen  factories  give  employment  to 
9000  operatives,  the  greater  part  of  whom  are  females.  About 
15|  million  pounds  of  cotton,  and  near  150,000  pounds  of  wool, 
are  expended  annually  in  the  production  of  50  million  yards  of 
cotton  and  woollen  goods  and  carpeting.  The  supply  of  water- 
power,  from  the  Merrimack,  is  convenient  and  unfailing.  Lowell 
also  contains  powder-mills,  flannel-works,  grist  and  saw-mills, 
glass-works,  &c. 

Among  other  places  noted  for  manufactures,  are  Fall  River 
village,  near  the  mouth  of  Taunton  river;  Taunton,  on  the  river 
of  the  same  name,  and  32  miles  south-west  from  Boston  ;  Worces- 
ter, west  from  Boston ;  Springfield  and  Northampton,  both  on 
Connecticut  river;  Pittsfield,  in  the  western,  and  Adams,  in  the 
north-western  part  of  the  state. 


STATE  OF  RHODE  ISLAND. 


Rhode  Island  is  bounded  north  and  east  by  Massachusetts, 
south  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  and  west  by  Connecticut.  Its  ex- 
tent from  north  to  south  is  about  48  miles,  and  from  east  to 
west,  42 ;  area,  1225  square  miles.  A  large  proportion  of  the 
north-western  and  western  part  of  the  state  has  a  thin  and  lean 
soil,  but  the  islands  and  country  bordering  on  Narragansett  Bay 
arc  of  great  fertility,  and  are  celebrated  for  their  fine  cattle,  and 

91 


80  NORTH   AMERICA. 

the  abundance  and  excellence  of  their  butter  and  cheese.     The 
products  are  corn,  rye,  barley,  oats,  and  some  wheat. 

The  island  of  Rhode  Island  is  celebrated  for  its  beautiful,  cul- 
tivated appearance,  abounding  in  smooth  swells,  and  being- 
divided  with  great  uniformity  into  well-tilled  fields.  The  climate 
much  resembles  that  of  Massachusetts  and  Connecticut  in  its 
salubrity :  the  parts  of  the  state  adjacent  to  the  sea  are  favoured 
with  refreshing  breezes  in  summer,  and  its  winter  is  the  most 
mild  of  any  of  the  New  England  states. 

The  rivers  are  small,  with  courses  of  not  more  than  50  or  60 
miles,  and  discharging  an  inconsiderable  quantity  of  water ;  but 
as  they  descend  from  200  to  450  feet,  and  are  steady  in  their 
supply  of  water,  they  furnish  a  great  number  of  valuable  mill- 
seats  ;  and  they  have  been  extensively  applied  to  manufacturing 
purposes.  The  Pawtucket,  Pawtuxet,  and  Pawcatuck,  are  the 
principal  streams. 

The  inhabitants  have  occupied  themselves  with  commerce,  the 
fisheries,  and  manufactures,  rather  than  with  agriculture.  There 
are  in  the  state  many  cotton-mills,  woollen-mills,  bleacheries, 
calico-print  works,  iron-foundries,  machine-shops,  tanneries,  &c. 
There  is  a  silk  manufactory  in  Providence,  and  lace  is  made  in 
Newport. 

The  people  of  Rhode  Island  not  having  made  a  constitution 
for  themselves,  the  government  is  still  conducted  according  to 
the  provisions  of  the  royal  charter  of  1663.  The  official  style 
is  the  State  of  Rhode  Island  and  Providence  Plantations.  The 
Governor  and  Lieutenant-Governor  are  chosen  annually  by 
popular  vote.  The  legislature,  styled  the  General  Assembly, 
consists  of  two  houses,  a  Senate,  chosen  annually,  and  a  House 
of  Representatives,  chosen  semi-annually,  which  meet  four  times 
a  year.  The  judges  and  other  civil  officers  are  appointed  annu- 
ally by  the  General  Assembly. 

The  state  appropriates  10,000  dollars  a  year  for  the  support 
of  common  schools,  and  a  somewhat  larger  sum  is  raised  by  the 
towns  for  the  same  purpose,  in  addition  to  which,  considerable 
sums  are  raised  by  individual  subscription,  in  order  to  keep  the 
free  schools  open  some  time  longer  than  the  public  funds  would 
admit.  Brown  University,  at  Providence,  is  a  respectable  insti- 
tution on  the  plan  of  the  other  New  England  colleges.  The 
Baptists  and  Congregationalists  are  the  most  numerous  sects, 
the  Episcopalians  and  Methodists  are  also  numerous,  and  there 
are  some  Friends,  Roman  Catholics,  and  Universalists. 
POPULATION  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS. 

In  1701,  10,000;  in  1730,  17,935;  in  1748,34,128;  in  1755,46,636;  in 
1774,  59,678;  in  1783,  51,809. 


RHODE   ISLAND.  81 

INCREASE.  SLAVES. 

In  1790 63,825  948 

1800 69,122        From  1790  to  1800  297  ....  380 

1810 76,931                  1800  to  1810  7,809  ....  108 

1820 83,059                  1810  to  1820 6,128....  48 

1830 97,199                   1820  to  1830 14,140....  14 

1840 108,830                  1830tol840 11,631....  5 

Of  the  above  population  of  1840,  there  were,  white  males, 
51,362  ;  white  females,  54,225  ;  deaf  and  dumb,  77  ;  blind,  64. 
Total,  whites,  105,587.    Free  coloured  persons,  3238.    Slaves,  5. 

The  principal  city  of  Rhode  Island  is  Providence,  the  second 
in  New  England  in  point  of  population,  wealth,  and  commerce. 
It  is  situated  at  the  head  of  Narragansett  Bay,  and  is  accessible 
to  the  largest  merchant-vessels :  it  carries  on  an  active  coasting 
and  foreign  trade.  The  population  of  the  city  is  22,042.  Here 
are  17  banks  with  a  capital  of  about  5,000,000  dollars ;  also  a 
number  of  cotton-mills,  bleacheries,  dye-houses,  machine-shops, 
iron-founderies,  &c.  Among  the  public  buildings  are  the  state- 
house,  the  halls  of  Brown  University,  the  arcade,  a  handsome 
granite  edifice,  14  churches,  a  state  prison,  &c.  Steam-boats, 
of  the  largest  and  finest  class,  keep  up  a  daily  communication 
with  New  York,  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year ;  the  Black- 
stone  canal,  and  Boston  and  Providence  rail-road,  terminate  here  ; 
and  the  latter  is  continued  to  Stonington  in  Connecticut. 

Pawtucket  river,  above  Providence,  is  the  seat  of  extensive 
manufactures.  North  Providence,  on  the  Massachusetts  border, 
contains  the  manufacturing  village  of  Pawtucket,  opposite  which 
is  the  town  of  Pawtucket  in  that  state.  The  whole  manufacturing 
district  is  also  commonly  called  Pawtucket,  and  it  contains  20 
cotton-mills,  beside  machine-shops,  calico-printing  works,  iron- 
works, &c.  There  is  a  population  of  about  6000  souls  on  both 
sides  of  the  river. 

Above  this,  the  Pawtucket  takes  the  name  of  Blackstone,  and 
furnishes  mill-seats  which  have  created  the  village  of  Woonsocket 
Falls,  also  situated  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  in  the  townships  of 
Smithfield  and  Cumberland.  There  are  also  manufacturing 
establishments  in  other  parts  of  Smithfield.  The  population  at 
the  Falls  is  about  3000.  Warwick,  on  the  Pawtuxet  river  and 
Narragansett  bay,  is  a  manufacturing  and  fishing  town,  with 
5529  inhabitants. 

Bristol  is  a  busy  town,  actively  engaged  in  the  foreign  and 
coasting  trade  and  whale  fishery.  Nearly  at  the  south  end  of 
the  Island  of  Rhode  Island  is  Newport,  once  one  of  the  principal 
towns  in  the  colonies,  and  still  a  favourite  summer  resort,  on 


82  NORTH    AMERICA. 

account  of  its  pleasant  situation,  the  refreshing  coolness  of  the 
sea-breezes,  and  its  advantages  for  sea-bathing.  The  harbour  is 
one  of  the  finest  in  the  world,  being  safe,  capacious,  and  easy  of 
access,  and  is  defended  by  an  important  work  called  Fort  Adams. 
Population,  8321.  Prudence  and  Connecticut  Islands  in  the  bay, 
and  Block  Island,  at  the  entrance  of  Long  Island  Sound,  belong 
to  this  state.  The  latter,  although  destitute  of  a  harbour,  has 
nearly  2000  inhabitants,  engaged  in  the  fisheries. 


STATE  OF  CONNECTICUT. 

Tins  state  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Massachusetts,  south  by 
Long  Island  Sound,  east  by  Rhode  Island,  and  west  by  New 
York.  It  is  90  miles  in  length,  70  miles  in  breadth,  and  contains 
4764  square  miles.  The  principal  rivers  are,  the  Connecticut, 
Housatonic,  Thames,  Farmington,  and  Naugatuck. 

The  soil  is  good,  and  the  industrious  inhabitants  have  not 
neglected  its  cultivation.  The  valley  of  Connecticut  river,  from 
Middletown  to  the  northern  boundary  of  the  state,  is  a  luxuriant 
meadow,  chequered  by  patches  of  wheat,  corn,  and  other  grain. 
Some  other  parts  of  the  state  are  well  cultivated  and  fruitful, 
and  some  portions  are  beautiful,  as  well  from  the  gifts  of  nature 
as  the  improvements  of  art. 

The  chief  productions  are  Indian-corn,  rye,  wheat  in  many  parts, 
oats,  barley,  buckwheat,  flax  in  large  quantities,  &c.  Orchards 
are  numerous,  and  cider  is  made  for  exportation.  The  state  is, 
however,  generally  better  adapted  to  grazing  than  tillage,  and  its 
fine  meadows  and  pastures  enable  the  farmer  to  feed  great  numbers 
of  neat  cattle,  horses,  and  sheep.  The  quantity  of  butter  and 
cheese,  annually  made,  is  great,  and  of  well-known  excellence. 

The  whale  and  seal  fisheries  are  carried  on  from  several  of  the 
ports,  and  there  are  several  shad  fisheries  on  the  rivers.  The 
coasting  trade  is  considerable,  but  most  of  the  foreign  trade  is 
carried  on  through  New  York. 

The  manufactures  of  Connecticut  are  considerable,  and  the 
ingenuity  and  industry  of  the  people  in  this  respect  have  a  repu- 
tation coextensive  with  the  Union.  The  principal  articles  are 
cotton  and  woollen  goods,  clocks,  combs,  and  buttons,  tin  and 
wooden  ware.  Implements,  and  utensils  of  various  descriptions 
are  among  the  products  of  manufacturing  industry.  In  1832, 
there  were  in  the  state  104  cotton-mills  and  80  woollen  factories. 
The  annual  value  of  cotton  and  woollen  goods,  iron  manufactures, 
axes,  boots,  and  shoes,  buttons  and  combs,  paper,  coaches  and 


CONNECTICUT.  83 

wagons,  with  other  articles,  amounted  to  an  aggregate  of  8,000,000 
dollars. 

Common  schools  are  supported  by  the  proceeds  of  the  school 
fund  belonging  to  the  state,  which  are  distributed  among  the 
school  districts  in  proportion  to  the  number  of  children  in  each, 
between  the  ages  of  four  and  sixteen  years.  The  money  thus 
distributed  is  applied  solely  to  paying  the  expense  of  instruction, 
the  other  charges  being  paid  by  the  districts.  The  number  of 
children  of  the  above  description,  is  about  84,000.  The  school 
fund  amounts  to  about  2,027,402  dollars,  and  the  income  is  nearly 
95,000  dollars. 

There  are  three  colleges  in  the  state,  viz.,  Yale  College,  at  New 
Haven,  Washington  College  at  Hartford,  and  the  Wesleyan 
University  at  Middletown.  Yale  College  is  one  of  the  oldest  and 
most  respectable,  and  the  most  frequented  of  the  collegiate  insti- 
tutions in  the  country.  Attached  to  it  are  a  theological  depart- 
ment, a  medical  institute,  and  a  law  school.  The  duties  of 
instruction  are  performed  by  27  teachers. 

The  Congregationalists  are  the  most  numerous  religious  sect  ; 
after  them  rank  the  Baptists,  Methodists,  and  Episcopalians ; 
and  there  are  some  Universalists,  Roman  Catholics,  and  Shakers. 

The  Farmington  canal  extends  from  New  Haven  to  the  Mas- 
sachusetts line,  56  miles  ;  whence  it  is  continued  to  Northampton, 
by  the  Hampshire  and  Hampden  canal.  Enfield  canal,  5£  miles 
in  length,  serves  to  overcome  a  fall  in  the  Connecticut,  and  sup- 
plies valuable  mill-seats.  A  rail-road  also  extends  from  Providence 
to  Stonington,  in  this  state,  45  miles  in  length;  it  is  intended  to  be 
connected  by  a  steam  ferry-boat  with  the  termination  of  the  Long 
Island  rail-road.  Another  rail-road  was  lately  finished  from  New 
Haven  to  Hartford,  a  distance  of  40  miles.  Norwich  and  Worces- 
ter rail-road,  60  miles  in  length,  has  been  recently  completed. 

POPULATION  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS. 

237,946  increase. 

25 1 ,002  From  1 79  0  to  1 800 ...  1 3,056 

261,942  1800  to  1810. . .  10,940 

275,248  1810  to  1820. . .  13,306 

297,665  1820  to  1830. . .  22,417 

309,978  1830  to  1840. . .  12,313 

Of  the  above  population  of  1840,  there  were,  white  males, 
148,300;  white  females,  153,556;  of  which  are,  deaf  and  dumb, 
317 ;  blind,  156.  Total,  whites,  301,856.  Free  coloured  per- 
sons, 8105 ;  slaves,  17. 

New  Haven,  the  principal  city  of  the  state,  is  beautifully 
situated  on  a  bay  of  the  same  name.  The  harbour  is  safe  and 
spacious,  but  it  is  shallow,  and  gradually  filling  up.     The  city  is 


In  1701.. 

.  30,000 

In  1790. 

1749.. 

.  100,000 

1800. 

1756.. 

.  130,611 

1810. 

1774.. 

.  197,856 

1820. 

1782.. 

.  209,150 

1830. 
1840. 

84  NORTH   AMERICA. 

regularly  laid  out  and  neatly  built :  many  of  the  houses  have  fine 
gardens ;  some  of  the  chief  streets  are  bordered  by  rows  of 
shade  trees,  and  the  principal  square  is  finely  ornamented  in  the 
same  manner.  Among  the  public  buildings  are  the  state-house, 
the  state-hospital,  the  halls  of  Yale  College,  12  churches,  &c. 
One  of  the  wharves  here  is  3943  feet  in  length. 

The  coasting  and  foreign  trade  of  New  Haven  is  considerable  : 
steam-boats  and  packets  keep  up  a  regular  and  easy  communica- 
tion with  New  York  ;  and  there  are  some  extensive  manufactories 
in  fire-arms,  carriages,  &c.  Population,  14,390.  Bridgeport, 
south-west  of  New  Haven,  is  a  busy,  thriving  town,  with  a  good 
harbour  on  the  Sound.  In  the  interior  are  Danbury  and  Litch- 
field, with  some  manufactures. 

North-east  from  New  Haven,  on  the  banks  of  the  Connecticut, 
river,  is  the  city  of  Hartford ;  a  neat  and  pleasant  town,  with 
considerable  coasting  trade.  The  population  amounted,  in  the 
year  1840,  to  12,793.  Steam-boats  run  daily  between  Hartford 
and  New  York,  and  several  small  steam-packets  and  tow-boats 
are  employed  on  the  river  above.  The  annual  amount  of  the 
manufactures  of  Hartford  is  about  1,000,000  dollars  ;  the  princi- 
pal branches  are  printing  and  publishing,  shoe-making,  &c. 
Among  the  public  buildings  are  a  state-house,  city  hall,  12 
churches,  the  asylum  for  the  deaf  and  dumb,  retreat  for  the 
insane,  &c. 

The  city  of  Middletown,  a  few  miles  below  Hartford,  is  acces- 
sible to  vessels  drawing  ten  feet  of  water,  and  its  coasting  and 
foreign  trade  is  considerable.  The  situation  of  the  town  is 
pleasant,  and  the  houses  and  public  buildings  neat.  Its  manufac- 
tures are  also  pretty  extensive,  comprising  cotton  and  woollen 
goods,  fire-arms,  paper,  machinery,  &c.  Population  of  the  city, 
7210.  Saybrook,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Connecticut  river,  was 
the  first  spot  occupied  by  the  English  in  Connecticut,  and  the 
ground  was  regularly  laid  out  for  a  large  city ;  but  the  antici- 
pations of  its  founders  have  not  been  realised. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Thames  stands  the  city  of  New  London : 
it  is  the  principal  commercial  place  in  Connecticut,  with  one  of 
the  best  harbours  in  the  country.  Its  trade  is  considerable ; 
upwards  of  40  ships  sail  from  this  place  to  the  whale-fishery ; 
and  the  shore-fishery  is  also  actively  carried  on.  Population, 
5528. 

Norwich,  13  miles  above  New  London,  is  a  flourishing  manu- 
facturing city,  situated  in  a  beautiful  and  fertile  tract.  The 
water-power  is  here  ample,  and  is  already  extensively  employed 
for  useful  purposes.     There  are  in  the  township  17  manufactu- 


MIDDLE    STATES.  85 

ring  establishments,  eight  churches,  four  banks,  &c.  Stonington, 
in  the  south-east  corner  of  the  state,  has  12  vessels  in  the  seal- 
fishery,  and  carries  on  the  shore-fishery  successfully. 


MIDDLE    STATES. 

The  Middle  States  are  bounded  on  the  north  by  Canada, 
the  river  St.  Lawrence,  and  Lakes  Ontario  and  Erie ;  south  by 
Virginia ;  east  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean  and  New  England ;  west 
by  the  states  of  Ohio  and  Virginia.  As  a  region,  the  Middle 
States  comprise  New  York,  New  Jersey,  Pennsylvania,  and 
Delaware ;  it  extends  from  north  to  south  about  460  miles,  and 
from  east  to  west,  360  miles,  with  an  area  of  about  103,000 
square  miles,  and  occupies  one  of  the  finest  parts  of  the  Union. 

The  surface  presents  every  variety  of  mountain,  hill,  plain  and 
valley.  The  Alleghany  range  extends  through  this  region  from 
south-west  to  north-east,  in  several  parallel  ridges,  and  attains 
in  Pennsylvania  its  widest  limits ;  none  of  these,  however,  reach 
the  elevation  of  the  highest  summits  of  the  Blue  Ridge  in  North 
Carolina,  or  the  White  Mountains  in  New  Hampshire. 

The  most  prominent  rivers  of  the  Atlantic  sections  of  the  United 
States  are  in  this  region.  The  Hudson  and  Delaware  rank 
amongst  the  most  important  and  useful  of  our  navigable  streams  ; 
but  the  Susquehanna  is,  notwithstanding  its  length,  but  little 
available  without  the  aid  of  artificial  navigation. 

The  mineral  productions  are  various  and  valuable.  Bitumi- 
nous and  anthracite  coal,  several  kinds  of  iron  ore,  salt,  lime, 
excellent  building  materials,  and  clays  useful  in  the  arts,  are 
among  the  treasures  in  which  it  abounds.  Mining  industry  has 
acquired  importance  from  the  activity  and  success  with  which  it 
has  lately  been  pushed ;  and  the  public  works  of  this  section  are 
particularly  remarkable  for  their  number  and  magnitude. 

In  general  the  soil  is  fertile,  and  particularly  favourable  to  the 
production  of  every  species  of  grain  :  wheat  is  the  principal  object 
of  culture;  tobacco  is  extensively  raised;  also  Indian-corn,  rye, 
barley,  &c.  The  planting  of  mulberry  trees,  and  the  rearing  of 
silk-worms,  with  a  view  to  the  extensive  introduction  of  the 
manufacture  of  silk,  has  recently  been  prosecuted  with  great 
activity,  in  this  division  of  our  country,  as  well  as  elsewhere 
throughout  the  United  States.  The  fruits  common  to  the  tem- 
perate regions  are  abundant,  and  of  excellent  quality.  The  com- 
merce of  the  Middle  States  is  extensive,  and  chiefly  carried  on 
through  the  cities  of  New  York  and  Philadelphia,  to  which  it 


86  NORTH    AMERICA. 

centres ;  the  trade,  however,  of  a  considerable  part  of  Pennsyl- 
vania and  Delaware  flows  to  Baltimore. 

Manufacturing  industry  is  carried  to  a  greater  extent,  in  pro- 
portion to  the  population,  than  in  any  part  of  the  United  States, 
excepting  New  England ;  it  employs  a  vast  amount  of  capital 
and  labour,  and  affords  generally  a  competent  remuneration  to 
thousands  of  both  sexes. 

The  Middle  States  were  originally  settled  by  people  of  various 
countries,  having  different  habits,  feelings,  and  opinions  :  society, 
therefore,  does  not  possess  that  uniform  character  which  admits 
of  a  general  description.  The  great  body  is  of  British  descent, 
but  in  New  York  and  Maryland  there  are  many  Germans  ;  and 
in  Pennsylvania  they  are  so  numerous  as  to  constitute,  in  some 
respects,  a  separate  community,  retaining  their  own  language, 
and  being  often  ignorant  of  the  English.  In  New  York  and  New 
Jersey  there  are  many  descendants  of  the  original  Dutch  settlers 
of  New  Amsterdam  ;  and  in  some  sections  the  Dutch  language  is 
partially  spoken. 

After  the  close  of  the  revolutionary  war,  an  extensive  emigra- 
tion from  the  New  England  states  into  New  York  continued  for 
many  years,  and  a  majority  of  the  present  population  of  that  state 
are  natives  of  New  England,  or  their  descendants.  There  is  also 
a  considerable  body  of  New  England  emigrants  in  Pennsylvania. 
The  whole  population  of  the  four  Middle  States  was,  in  1840, 
4,604,335  ;  in  which  number  are  3347  slaves,  and  135,844  free 
people  of  colour. 


STATE  OF  NEW  YORK. 

This  great  state,  the  most  flourishing,  wealthy,  and  populous 
in  the  Union,  exhibits  one  of  those  amazing  examples  of  growth 
and  prosperity  that  are  seen  nowhere  on  the  globe  beyond  our 
own  borders. 

New  York  is  the  most  northern  of  the  middle  states,  and  is 
bounded  north  by  Lake  Ontario,  the  St.  Lawrence  river  and 
Lower  Canada ;  east  by  Vermont,  Massachusetts,  and  Connecti- 
cut ;  south  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  New  Jersey,  and  Pennsylva- 
nia ;  and  west  by  Lake  Erie,  Pennsylvania,  and  the  Niagara 
river.  Length,  316  miles;  breadth,  304:  containing  about 
47,000  square  miles. 

The  principal  rivers  are  the  Hudson,  St.  Lawrence,  Delaware, 
Susquehanna,  Alleghany,  Genessee,  Niagara,  Oswego,  and  the 
Mohawk.     A  part  of  the  lakes  Erie,  Ontario,  and  Champlain,  are 


MIDDLE  STATES. 


Wheat 


\  i     )  m 


Indian  Corn. 


Buckwheat. 


NORTH  AMERICA. 


Hemp. 


Flax 


Saxifrage. 


Locust  Tree. 


Sweet  Gum. 


100 


NEW   YORK.  87 

in  this  state.  The  other  principal  lakes  are,  Lake  George, 
Cayuga,  Seneca,  Oneida,  Oswegatchie,  Canandaigua,  &c. 

The  soil  in  the  maritime  part  of  the  state  is  sandy,  in  the 
middle  beautifully  undulating,  and  in  the  western  and  southern 
division  remarkably  level,  rich,  and  inclining  to  alluvial  forma- 
tion. 

Iron  ore  is  found  in  inexhaustible  quantities  and  of  a  goad 
quality,  in  the  north-eastern  part  of  the  state ;  it  occurs  also  in 
some  of  the  central,  eastern,  and  south-western  counties.  Lead 
is  found  in  some  parts  of  the  state ;  also  gypsum,  in  the  central 
counties,  where  it  is  extensively  used  for  agricultural  purposes. 
Limestone  likewise  occurs.  Salt  is  procured  in  abundance  from 
the  Onondaga  salt-springs,  in  the  township  of  Salina ;  the  brine  is 
conducted  to  Salina,  Syracuse,  and  other  neighbouring  villages, 
where  the  salt  is  obtained  by  boiling,  by  solar  evaporation,  and  by 
artificial  evaporation,  55  gallons  of  water  yielding  a  bushel  of  salt. 
The  quantity  of  salt  made  in  1826,  was  827,508  bushels  ;  in  1830, 
1,435,446  ;  in  1838>  2,575,000  bushels. 

The  well-known  springs  of  Ballston  and  Saratoga  are  partly 
saline,  partly  chalybeate,  and  the  water  is  exported  in  considerable 
quantities  not  only  to  other  states,  but  to  foreign  countries.  In 
the  western  part  of  the  state,  there  are  burning  springs,  yielding 
carburetted  hydrogen,  which  is  applied  to  economical  uses  in  the 
neighbouring  villages. 

Wheat  is  the  great  agricultural  staple  of  the  state,  and  flour 
and  provisions  are  largely  exported. 

The  manufactures  of  New  York  are  also  extensive  and  flourish- 
ing ;  the  aggregate  value  of  manufactured  articles,  in  the  year 
1835,  was  stated  to  be  60,669,067  dollars;  that  of  the  raw 
materials  used,  amounted  to  the  sum  of  43,400,922  dollars.  In 
addition  to  these,  there  were  made  in  families,  cloth,  flannels,  and 
other  woollens,  and  cotton,  linen,  &c,  of  the  aggregate  value  of 
2,092,984  dollars.  The  cotton  and  woollen  mills  produced 
24,175,357  yards  of  cotton  cloth>  6,626,058  of  woollen,  and 
686,203  of  mixed  cotton  and  woollen. 

The  commerce  of  New  York  is  also  on  a  great  scale,  as,  beside 
supplying  her  own  wants  and  exporting  her  surplus  productions, 
she  imports  a  large  share  of  the  foreign  articles  consumed  in  the 
neighbouring  Atlantic  states,  as  well  as  in  many  of  the  western 
states,  to  which  her  natural  and  artificial  channels  of  communi- 
cation give  her  access ;  and  her  great  commercial  emporium  is 
the  outlet  for  the  produce  of  the  same  regions. 

Thus,  the  value  of  the  importations  is  about  90,000,000  dollars, 
or  nearly  three-fifths  of  the  whole  imports  of  the  country;  while 
that  of  the  exports  is  33,000,000  dollars,  or  more  than  one-fourth 

I*  101 


88  NORTH  AMERICA. 

of  the  whole  exports  of  the  United  States.  The  shipping  belong- 
ing to  the  state  is  nearly  468,593  tons.  Forty-five  ships,  of 
13,000  tons,  were  engaged  in  the  whale-fishery  at  the  same  time, 
chiefly  from  Sag  Harbour,  Hudson,  Newburg,  and  Pough- 
keepsie. 

This  state  is  distinguished  for  its  magnificent  public  works, 
constructed  for  the  purpose  of  connecting  the  great  central  basin 
of  the  lakes  and  the  St.  Lawrence  with  the  Atlantic ;  663  miles 
of  canal  navigation  have  been  obtained,  at  the  cost  of  13,497,568 
dollars.  The  great  trunk  is  the  Erie  canal,  extending  from 
Buffalo  on  Lake  Erie  to  the  Hudson,  364  miles.  The  total  value 
of  the  articles  transported  annually  on  these  canals,  is  estimated 
to  exceed  40,000,000  doiiars.  Provision  has  recently  been  made 
for  enlarging  this  great  work,  the  longest  of  the  kind  in  the  world, 
by  increasing  the  width  to  60,  and  the  depth  to  six  feet. 

The  Champlain  canal  extends  from  Lake  Champlain,  at 
Whitehall,  to  the  junction  of  the  Erie  canal  with  the  Hudson,  64 
miles,  with  a  navigable  feeder  of  12  miles.  Other  branches  of 
this  work,  pervading  different  parts  of  the  state,  are  the  Oswego 
canal,  38  miles,  connecting  the  Erie  canal,  at  Salina,  with  Lake 
Ontario ;  Cayuga  and  Seneca  canal,  23  miles,  extending  from 
Geneva  to  Montezuma  on  the  Erie  canal,  and  thus  continuing 
the  navigation  through  those  two  lakes ;  Crooked  Lake,  eight 
miles,  connecting  that  Lake  with  Seneca  Lake  ;  Chemung  canal, 
from  the  head  of  the  latter  to  the  river  Chemung,  or  Tioga,  at 
Elmira,  23  miles,  with  a  navigable  feeder  from  Painted  Post  to 
Elmira,  of  16  miles;  Chenango  canal,  97  miles  in  length  from 
Binghamton,  on  the  Chenango,  to  Utica. 

Appropriations  have  been  made  by  the  Legislature  for  the  con- 
struction of  the  Black  River  canal,  75  miles  in  length,  from  Rome 
on  the  Erie  canal,  to  Carthage  on  Black  River;  and  the  Genesee 
Valley  canal,  from  Rochester  to  Olean,  on  the  Alleghany  river, 
107  miles,  has  been  lately  finished. 

Beside  the  works  constructed  by  the  state,  the  principal  canal 
made  by  a  private  company  is  the  Delaware  and  Hudson.  Total 
length,  109  miles,  of  which  26  are  in  Pennsylvania.  A  rail-road 
runs  to  the  coal-mines  at  Carbondale,  a  distance  of  16  miles, 
passing  over  Moosic  Mountain,  which  is  1580  feet  above  tide- 
water, and  850  above  the  coal-mines. 

The  following  are  the  principal  rail-roads  already  completed : 
the  Mohawk  and  Hudson,  from  Albany  to  Schenectady,  15 
miles,  continued  northwardly  by  the  Schenectady  and  Saratoga 
rail-road,  22  miles,  and  westwardly  by  the  Schenectady  and 
Utica  rail-road,  77  miles ;  the  Auburn  and  Syracuse  rail-road, 
26  miles ;  the  Tonawanda  rail-road,  from  Rochester  to  Attica, 


NEW    YORK.  89 

34  miles ,  the  Ithaca  and  Oswego,  29  miles,  from  the  Susque- 
hanna to  Cayuga  lake ;  the  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  rail-road, 
from  Troy  to  Ballston,  25  miles ;  the  Brooklyn  and  Jamaica  rail- 
road, 12  miles. 

It  is  also  intended  to  connect  the  detached  links  between 
Albany  and  Buffalo,  so  as  to  form  an  unbroken  line  of  road 
between  those  two  places ;  and  rail-roads  are  now  in  progress 
from  Hudson  and  Greenbush  to  West  Stockbridge,  in  Massa- 
chusetts, which  will  serve  to  connect  Boston,  by  the  Massachu- 
setts western  rail-road,  with  Lake  Erie. 

The  Long  Island  rail-road,  from  Jamaica  to  Greenport ;  the 
New  York  and  Erie  rail-road,  from  Tappan  on  the  Hudson,  to 
Lake  Erie,  480  miles  ;  and  the  New  York  and  Albany  rail-road, 
between  those  two  cities,  a  distance  of  160  miles,  are  in  progress. 
The  latter  passes  up  the  eastern  side  of  the  river,  partly  through 
Connecticut  and  Massachusetts ;  and  a  tunnel  under  the  Hudson 
at  Albany,  has  been  projected. 

The  legislature  consists  of  two  houses,  the  Senate,  chosen  for 
the  term  of  four  years,  and  the  Assembly,  elected  annually ;  the 
former  are  chosen  by  senatorial  districts,  and  the  latter  by  counties. 
A  Governor  and  Lieutenant-Governor  are  chosen  by  popular 
election  for  the  term  of  two  years.  The  chancellor  and  superior 
judges  are  appointed  by  the  Governor  and  Senate,  and  hold  their 
office  during  good  behaviour,  or  until  the  age  of  60  years ;  the 
inferior  judges  are  appointed  by  the  same  authorities,  for  the 
term  of  five  years. 

Every  white  male  citizen,  of  the  age  of  21  years,  who  has  re- 
sided in  the  state  for  one  year  next  preceding  the  election,  is 
entitled  to  vote ;  but  coloured  persons  must  be  possessed  of  a 
clear  freehold  of  the  value  of  250  dollars,  in  order  to  be  qualified 
electors. 

Ample  provision  is  made  for  common  education.  In  1840,  the 
school-fund  amounted  to  1,978,069  dollars.  The  number  of 
school  districts  was  10,706.  In  1838,  returns  had  been  received 
from  9830  districts,  in  which  557,229  scholars  had  been  taught. 

Provision  has  also  been  made  at  the  public  expense,  for  the 
education  of  teachers,  by  the  establishment  of  a  department  in 
an  academy  of  each  of  the  eight  senatorial  districts,  with  the 
suitable  books  and  apparatus  for  that  purpose. 

There  are  also  200  academies  and  high  schools,  among  which 
are  distributed  12,000  dollars  from  the  literature  fund,  and  a 
great  number  of  other  high  schools  and  seminaries  of  instruction. 

The  higher  seminaries  are  the  University  of  the  City  of  New 
York,  and  Columbia  College,  in  New  York  city ;  Union  College, 
at  Schenectady ;  Hamilton  College,  at  Clinton  j  and  Geneva  Col- 

8*  105 


90  NORTH   AMERICA. 

lege,  with  a  medical  department,  at  Geneva.  The  Episcopalians 
have  a  Theological  Seminary,  in  New  York ;  the  Presbyterians, 
at  Auburn ;  the  Baptists,  at  Hamilton ;  and  the  Lutherans,  at 
Hartwick.  There  are  likewise  medical  schools  in  New  York 
and  at  Fairfield. 

The  principal  religious  sects  are,  the  Presbyterians,  including 
Congregationalists,  the  Methodists,  and  the  Baptists ;  the  Episco- 
palians and  Dutch  Reformed  are  also  numerous,  with  some  Lu- 
therans, Roman  Catholics,  Friends,  &c. 

The  increase  of  the  population  of  this  state  has  been  very  rapid ; 
in  the  20  years  from  1790  to  1810,  it  nearly  trebled  itself;  from 
1810  to  1830,  it  doubled  itself;  and  in  the  five  years  from  1830 
to  1835,  the  increase  was  13^  per  cent. ;  by  the  census  of  1835 
the  population  was  2,174,517.  It  consists,  in  part,  of  the  de- 
scendants of  the  original  Dutch  settlers,  with  some  emigrants 
from  Great  Britain,  Germany,  and  other  European  countries. 
But  the  mass  of  the  people  are  of  New  England  origin  or  descent, 
and  they  are  favourably  distinguished  for  enterprise,  intelligence, 
and  virtue. 

POPULATION  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS. 

INCREASE.  SLAVES. 

586,050 21,324 


In  1701. 

.  30,000 

1800. 

1731. 

.  50,395 

1810. 

1749. 

.  100,000 

1820. 

1771. 

.  163,338 

1825. 

1790. 

.  340,120 

1830. 
1835. 

1840. 

959,049  From  1790  to  1800..  245,930 

1,372,812  1800  to  1810..  372,999 

1,616,458  1810  to  1820. .  413,763 

1,918,608  1820  to  1830, .  545,796 

2,174,517  1830  to  1835. .  255,909 

2,428,921  1835  to  1840..  254,404 


20,613 

15,017 

10,088 

76 


Of  the  above  population  of  1840,  there  were,  white  males, 
1,207,357;  white  females,  1,171,533;  deaf  and  dumb,  1007; 
blind,  966.  Total,  whites,  2,378,890.  Free  coloured  persons, 
50,027 ;  slaves,  4. 

The  city  of  New  York  is  the  largest,  most  wealthy,  and  most 
flourishing  of  all  the  American  cities  ;  the  greatest  commercial 
emporium  of  the  western  continent,  and,  after  London,  the  great- 
est in  the  world. 

No  city  in  the  world  possesses  equal  advantages  for  foreign 
commerce  and  inland  trade.  Two  long  lines  of  canals,  stretching 
back  in  every  direction,  have  increased  its  natural  advantages, 
and  rendered  it  the  great  mart  of  an  almost  indefinite  extent  of 
country,  while  its  facilities  of  communication  with  all  parts  of  the 
world,  have  made  it  the  thoroughfare  of  the  same  vast  region. 
The  progress  of  its  population  has  never  been  parallelled  ;  in  1790, 
it  was  33,131;  in  1810,  96,373;  in  1830,  203,007;  in  1835, 
270,089  ;  and  in  1840,  312,234. 

104 


NEW   YORK.  91 

It  is  chiefly  as  a  great  mart  of  foreign  and  inland  commerce 
that  New  York  is  most  advantageously  known.  The  shipping 
belonging  to  the  port  in  1838,  amounted  to  410,879  tons ;  entered 
during  the  year,  465,665  tons  ;  cleared,  366,389  tons  ;  the  annual 
number  of  arrivals  from  foreign  ports  exceeds  2000.  There  are 
regular  packets  plying  between  this  place  and  Liverpool,  packets  to 
London  and  Havre,  lines  of  steam-ships  to  Bristol,  &c,  and  packets 
to  Vera  Cruz,  Carthagena,  &c.  The  inland  and  coasting  trade  is 
also  immense.  There  are  here  22  banking  institutions,  with  a 
capital  of  20,161,200  dollars,  besides  the  free  banking  companies 
which  have  recently  been  formed  under  a  law  of  the  state  ;  and 
43  insurance  companies,  with  a  capital  of  14,800,000  dollars. 
Among  the  public  buildings  are  the  City  Hall,  a  handsome  edifice 
of  white  marble,  with  a  front  of  216  feet ;  the  Hall  of  the  Univer- 
sity, a  splendid  building,  180  by  100  feet;  the  Hall  of  Columbia 
College ;  the  Hospital ;  the  City  Lyceum  ;  150  churches  ;  the  As- 
tor  House,  a  hotel,  of  Quincy  granite,  200  feet  by  150,  and  77 
feet  high,  containing  390  rooms  ;  the  Almshouse  at  Bellevue,  on 
East  river ;  the  Penitentiary,  on  BlackwelPs  Island,  in  the  same 
river,  several  miles  from  the  city  ;  the  Custom-House,  an  elegant 
building,  177  feet  long,  by  89  feet  wide,  on  the  model  of  the  Par- 
thenon ;  the  new  Exchange,  erected  in  the  place  of  the  one  de- 
stroyed by  fire  in  1835  ;  the  Hall  of  Justice,  &c. 

New  York  is  to  be  supplied  with  fresh  water  by  means  of  an 
aqueduct,  42  miles  in  length,  extending  to  the  Croton  river. 
The  cost  of  this  work  will  be  about  12,000,000  dollars.  It  is 
advancing  rapidly  to  completion. 

The  benevolent  societies  are  numerous  and  well  supported. 
They  comprise  an  Hospital,  with  which  is  connected  a  Lunatic 
Asylum,  at  Bloomingdale ;  a  hospital  at  Bellevue,  for  the  sick  and 
insane  poor,  connected  with  the  city  Almshouse ;  three  Dispen- 
saries ;  an  Institution  for  the  Blind  ;  one  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb ; 
and  a  great  number  of  orphan  asylums,  relief  associations,  edu- 
cation, Bible,  and  tract  societies,  &c.  Neither  is  New  York 
behind  her  sister  cities  in  her  literary  and  scientific  establish- 
ments. 

Beside  the  educational  institutions  already  mentioned,  the  His- 
torical Society;  the  New  York  Society  Library,  with  25,000 
volumes ;  the  Lyceum  of  Natural  History,  and  the  American 
Lyceum,  have  published  some  valuable  papers ;  while  the  Mer- 
cantile Library  Association,  and  the  Apprentices'  Library,  show 
that  the  merchants  and  mechanics  are  not  indifferent  to  the  intel- 
lectual improvement  of  their  apprentices  and  clerks. 

There  are  also  here  an  Academy  of  Fine  Arts  and  an  Aca- 
demy of  Design.     The  American  Institute,  for  the  promotion  of 


92  NORTH    AMERICA. 

domestic  industry  by  the  distribution  of  premiums  and  other  re- 
wards, holds  annual  fairs  for  the  exhibition  of  the  products  of 
American  industry. 

The  city  of  Brooklyn,  on  Long  Island,  opposite  to  New  York, 
is  pleasantly  situated  on  a  rising  ground  which  commands  an 
agreeable  view,  and  it  partakes  in  the  commercial  activity  and 
prosperity  of  its  neighbour.  Here  is  a  navy-yard  of  the  United 
States,  on  Wallabout  Bay.  There  are  in  Brooklyn  a  handsome 
city  hall,  17  churches,  three  banks,  two  insurance  companies, 
&c.  Steam  ferry-boats  are  constantly  running  between  this 
place  and  New  York,  and  a  rail-road  extends  to  Jamaica,  12 
miles  of  which,  the  continuation  to  Greenport,  is  already  in  pro- 
gress. Its  population  has  increased  from  15,394  in  1830,  to 
24,529  in  1835,  and  36,283  in  1840. 

About  50  miles  above  the  city  of  New  York,  and  on  the  west 
side  of  the  Hudson,  is  West  Point,  a  celebrated  military  post 
during  the  war  of  independence,  and  now  the  seat  of  the  United 
States'  Military  Academy  for  the  education  of  officers  of  the  army. 
Newburg,  10  miles  above  West  Point,  and  on  the  right  bank, 
with  5000  inhabitants,  and  Poughkeepsie,  14  miles  higher,  on  the 
left,  with  6281,  are  neat,  thriving  villages,  with  considerable  trade, 
and  several  ships  engaged  in  the  whale-fishery. 

Near  the  head  of  ship  navigation,  117  miles  from  the  sea, 
stands  the  city  of  Hudson,  on  a  commanding  eminence  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  river.  Its  trade  and  manufactures  are  extensive 
and  increasing,  and  it  has  11  ships,  of  about  4000  tons,  engaged 
in  the  whale-fishery.  The  city  is  well  laid  out  and  prettily  built, 
and  the  neighbourhood  presents  many  charming  prospects.  The 
population  in  1830  amounted  to  5392,  and  in  1835  to  5531,  and 
is  now  about  6000. 

On  the  western  bank  of  the  Hudson  river,  145  miles  above 
New  York,  is  the  city  of  Albany,  the  capital,  and  in  point  of  size 
the  second  city  of  the  state.  Its  wealth  and  trade  have  been 
greatly  increased  by  the  opening  of  the  Erie  and  Champlain 
canals,  which  terminate  in  a  large  basin  in  the  city ;  and  its  situ- 
ation renders  it  a  great  thoroughfare,  not  only  for  traders,  but 
also  for  travellers  on  the  northern  route. 

It  contains  several  handsome  public  buildings,  among  which 
are  the  old  state  hall ;  the  new  state  hall,  and  the  city  hall,  both 
of  white  marble ;  the  academy,  of  red  freestone;  14  churches, 
&c.  The  Albany  institute,  with  a  library,  and  cabinet  of  mine- 
rals, coins,  and  casts ;  the  Athenaeum  has  a  library  of  above 
8000  volumes ;  and  there  is  also  an  Academy  of  Fine  Arts 
here. 

Regular  steam-packets  leave  twice  a  day  for  New  York; 

106 


NEW    YORK.  93 

numerous  canal  packets  and  rail-road  cars  are  constantly  depart- 
ing for  the  northern  and  western  routes ;  and  several  lines  of 
stage-coaches  keep  up  a  communication  with  the  east.  The 
number  of  persons  who  annually  pass  through  the  city  has  been 
estimated  at  upwards  of  600,000.  The  population  in  1820  was 
12,630 ;  in  1830,  24,209,  and  now  at  least  30,000. 

The  city  of  Troy,  six  miles  above  Albany,  is  situated  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river.  The  trade  and  manufactures  of  this 
place  are  both  considerable.  The  city  is  regularly  laid  out  and 
prettily  built.  The  population  in  1830  was  11,405,  and  at  pre- 
sent 19,372.  Nearly  north  from  Albany,  at  a  distance  of  29 
and  36  miles  respectively,  are  the  most  frequented  of  American 
watering-places,  Ballston  Spa  and  Saratoga. 

At  the  eastern  end  of  Lake  Ontario,  at  the  head  of  a  deep  bay, 
is  Sackett's Harbour,  an  important  naval  station  during  the  three 
years'  war ;  and  on  the  Black  river,  seven  miles  from  its  mouth, 
is  the  flourishing  village  of  Watertown,  prettily  situated  and 
neatly  built,  with  a  population  of  3500  inhabitants. 

Up  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk,  and  along  the  line  of  the  Grand 
canal  and  its  branches,  are  a  number  of  cities  and  towns,  which 
have  sprung  up,  as  if  by  enchantment,  in  the  bosom  of  a  wider- 
ness.  Schenectady,  Utica,  Syracuse,  Oswego,  Auburn,  Ithaca, 
Seneca,  Canandaigua,  Rochester,  Lockport,  and  Buffalo,  are  the 
principal. 

The  city  of  Schenectady,  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  fertile  tract, 
affording  numerous  mill-seats,  traversed  by  the  canal,  and  con- 
nected by  rail-roads  with  Albany,  Saratoga,  and  Utica,  has  an 
extensive  and  increasing  trade,  and  some  manufactures.  It  is 
the  seat  of  Union  College,  one  of  the  principal  collegiate  institu- 
tions in  the  state.     Population,  7000. 

Upwards  of  90  miles  north-west  from  Albany,  on  the  Grand 
canal,  is  the  city  of  Utica.  In  1794,  the  spot  contained  only  four 
or  five  log  houses,  in  the  midst  of  a  wilderness.  Population, 
12,000.  Here  are  13  churches,  an  academy,  a  state  and  county 
lyceum,  a  city  library,  a  mechanics'  association,  with  an  exten- 
sive trade,  and  numerous  manufactories  and  mills. 

Still  farther  west,  on  the  canal,  are  the  villages  of  Salina, 
Syracuse,  Geddes,  and  Liverpool,  the  seat  of  the  Onondaga  salt- 
springs,  which  are  the  property  of  the  state  :  the  manufacturers 
pay  a  duty  of  six  cents  a  bushel.  The  works  are  capable  of 
producing  3,000,000  bushels  a  year.  Population  of  Syracuse  in 
1838,  5000;  of  Salina,  8000. 

From  Syracuse,  a  branch  canal  extends  to  Oswego,  on  Lake 
Ontario,  one  of  the  most  flourishing  villages  in  the  state :  the 
river  of  the  same  name  furnishes  an  inexhaustible  water-power, 


94  NORTH    AMERICA. 

which  is  very  extensively  employed  for  useful  purposes ;  and  an 
excellent  harbour,  protected  by  piers,  constructed  by  the  general 
government. 

Since  the  opening  of  the  Welland  canal,  a  considerable  por- 
tion of  the  trade  of  the  upper  lakes,  as  well  as  that  of  Lake  On- 
tario, enters  at  Oswego,  and  large  quantities  of  wheat  are  brought 
in  to  be  ground  here.  The  population  is  about  5000,  having 
more  than  doubled  since  1830. 

The  city  of  Rochester,  situated  on  the  Genesee,  seven  miles 
from  its  mouth,  and  traversed  by  the  Great  canal,  is  a  busy  and 
flourishing  town.  The  river  has  here  a  fall  of  upwards  of  90 
feet,  and  a  few  miles  below,  it  descends  by  a  fall  of  75  feet  to  the 
level  of  Lake  Ontario :  the  whole  descent  from  Rochester  is  255 
feet. 

The  motive  power  thus  produced,  is  constant  and  immense,  and 
there  are  now  in  the  city  21  large  flour-mills,  several  cotton-  and 
woollen  manufactories,  and  a  great  number  of  other  manufactu- 
ring establishments.  The  aqueduct  over  the  river  is  a  solid 
piece  of  work,  consisting  of  10  arches  of  hewn  stone.  The 
population  of  the  city  increased  from  1502  in  1820,  to  9269  in 
1830,  and  17,160  in  1837. 

The  city  of  Buffalo,  at  the  western  termination  of  the  canal, 
has  a  harbour  on  Lake  Erie,  protected  by  a  long  pier.  The  city 
is  well  built,  and  finely  situated,  overlooking  the  lake ;  and  it 
contains  a  great  number  of  large  warehouses  and  manufactories. 
The  population  in  1820  was  2095 ;  in  1830,  6321  ;  and  is  now 
18,356.  The  lake-trade  is  very  extensive.  It  1817  there  were 
but  25  vessels,  and  no  steam-boat,  on  Lake  Erie;  and  in  1838 
they  amounted  to  500  sloops,  schooners,  and  brigs,  and  a  number 
of  steam-boats,  most  of  which  exceed  200  tons  burthen ;  beside 
several  ships,  &c.  Buffalo  contains,  in  addition  to  its  numerous 
churches,  a  handsome  exchange,  a  large  and  splendid  theatre, 
&c. 

The  village  of  Ithaca,  at  the  head  of  the  Cayuga  Lake,  is  a 
busy  thriving  place.  By  the  Owego  rail-road  it  is  connected 
with  the  Susquehanna,  and  by  the  lake  with  the  Erie  canal  and 
tide-water.  Its  situation  is  highly  picturesque.  There  are  nu- 
merous manufacturing  establishments  here. 

Dunkirk,  a  small  village  on  Lake  Erie,  has  a  commodious 
artificial  harbour,  formed  by  the  erection  of  a  pier  projecting  2000 
feet  into  the  lake,  and  a  breakwater  1340  feet  in  length,  in  front 
of  the  bay.  The  New  York  and  Erie  rail-road  will  terminate  at 
this  port.  At  Portland  harbour  there  is  a  light-house  supplied  by 
natural  gas,  which  rises  in  abundant  quantity  near  that  place. 


MIDDLE  STATES. 


Falls  of  Niagara. 


City  of  New  York. 


City  Hall,  New  York. 
K 


NORTH  AMERICA. 


View  of  Philadelphia. 


Water  Works,  at  Fairmount,  Philadelphia. 


Girard  College,  neat  Philadelphia. 


110 


NEW    JERSEY.  95 

STATE  OF  NEW  JERSEY. 

The  state  of  New  Jersey  is  bounded  north  by  New  York,  east 
by  the  Atlantic  Ocean  and  New  York,  south  by  Delaware  Bay, 
and  west  by  Pennsylvania.  It  is  138  miles  in  length,  and  50 
miles  in  breadth  ;  the  area  is  about  8320  square  miles.  The  soil 
of  this  state  is  not  naturally  well  adapted  to  agricultural  pursuits, 
much  of  the  land  being  either  sandy  or  marshy  ;  yet  its  proximity 
to  two  of  the  largest  markets  in  the  United  States,  and  the  in- 
dustry of  the  inhabitants,  have  rendered  it  exceedingly  productive 
of  all  sorts  of  grain,  fruits,  and  vegetables  common  to  the 
climate. 

New  Jersey  is  intersected  by  many  navigable  rivers,  and  has 
numerous  streams  for  mills,  iron  works,  and  every  species  of 
manufactures  requiring  water-power.  The  principal  of  these 
streams  are  the  Raritan,  Hackensack,  Passaic,  Salem,  Tom, 
Cohanzey,  and  Maurice  rivers. 

The  state  contains  valuable  iron  ores ;  rich  veins  of  zinc  ore 
occur  in  the  northern  part  of  the  state;  copper  also  abounds,  and  has 
been  extensively  worked.  The  greater  part  of  the  sandy  tract  is 
covered  with  extensive  pine  forests,  which  have  afforded  supplies  of 
fuel  for  the  numerous  furnaces  of  the  state,  and  the  steam-boats  of  the 
neighbouring  waters ;  the  middle  section  is  the  most  highly  im- 
proved and  wealthy  part  of  the  state,  being  divided  into  small  farms 
and  kitchen-gardens,  which  are  carefully  cultivated,  and  which 
find  a  ready  market  in  the  numerous  manufacturing  towns  of  the 
district,  and  in  the  great  cities  of  the  adjacent  states. 

The  northern  counties  contain  much  good  pasture  land,  with 
numerous  fine  farms.  The  apples  and  cider  of  the  north  are  as 
noted  for  their  superior  quality  as  the  peaches  of  the  south.  The 
industry  of  the  inhabitants  is  chiefly  devoted  to  agriculture,  com- 
merce being  mostly  carried  on  through  the  ports  of  New  York 
and  Pennsylvania ;  the  north-eastern  corner  is,  however,  the  seat 
of  flourishing  manufactures. 

The  shad  and  oyster  fisheries  in  the  rivers  and  great  estuaries 
that  border  on  the  state,  afford  a  profitable  employment  to  many 
of  the  inhabitants.  The  value  of  the  iron  manufactures  was  esti- 
mated, in  1830,  at  about  1,000,000  dollars  annually;  of  glass, 
500,000;  of  cottons,  2,000,000  ;  of  woollens,  250,000  :  but  all 
these  branches  have  very  much  increased  since  that  time.  Hats, 
boots  and  shoes,  carriages,  harness,  &c.  are  also  largely  manu- 
factured. 

The  system  of  common  school  instruction  has  hitherto  been 
defective ;  but,  in  consequence  of  the  recent  efforts  of  the 
friends  of  education,  measures  have  been  commenced  which 


96  NORTH   AMERICA. 

promise  cheering  results.  The  state  possesses  a  school-fund, 
which  commenced  in  1816,  and  amounted  in  1839  to  287,287 
dollars.  The  income  from  it,  which  is  about  30,000  dollars,  is 
annually  distributed  in  small  sums,  to  such  towns  as  raise  an 
equal  amount  for  the  support  of  schools. 

There  are  two  Colleges  in  New  Jersey  ;  the  College  of  New 
Jersey,  or  Nassau  Hall,  at  Princeton,  is  a  highly  respectable  in 
stitution ;  it  has  thirteen  instructors,  upwards  of  200  students,  a 
library  of  8000  volumes,  &c.  Rutgers  College,  at  New  Bruns- 
wick, was  founded  by  the  Dutch  Reformed  Church,  and  has  a 
theological  seminary  connected  with  it.  The  Presbyterians  have 
also  a  distinguished  theological  school  at  Princeton.  There  are 
several  academies  and  high  schools  in  the  state.  The  Presby- 
terians are  the  prevalent  sect;  but  the  Baptists,  Methodists,  Dutch 
Reformed,  Episcopalians,  and  Friends,  are  numerous,  and  there 
are  some  Roman  Catholics,  Universalists,  &c. 

Several  important  canal  and  rail-road  routes  connect  the  eastern 
and  western  waters,  or  unite  different  sections  of  the  state.  The 
Morris  canal  extends  from  Jersey  City  to  the  Delaware,  opposite 
Easton,  102  miles;  inclined  planes  have  been  in  part  used  instead 
of  locks,  and  the  boats  raised  and  let  down  in  a  frame  or  cradle, 
moved  by  water-power. 

The  Delaware  and  Raritan  canal,  uniting  the  navigable  waters 
of  the  rivers  from  which  it  takes  its  name,  extends  from  Borden- 
town,  through  Trenton  to  New  Brunswick,  45  miles,  admitting 
vessels  of  100  tons ;  a  navigable  feeder,  23  miles  in  length,  ex- 
tends from  Bull's  Island  in  the  Delaware,  to  Trenton.  The  Dela- 
ware and  Raritan  Canal  is  a  channel  of  much  trade  between  the 
cities  of  New  York  and  Philadelphia ;  the  sea  voyage  of  many 
coasters  being  in  this  way  rendered  unnecessary. 

The  Camden  and  Amboy  rail-road  is  an  important  work  on 
the  great  line  of  travel  between  the  north  and  south,  61  miles  in 
length.  The  Paterson  and  Hudson  rail-road,  from  Paterson  to 
Jersey  City,  opposite  New  York,  is  15  miles  long;  the  New 
Jersey  rail-road  extends  from  Jersey  City,  through  Newark,  New 
Brunswick,  &c,  to  Trenton  :  length  58  miles.  Here  it  connects 
with  a  similar  work,  of  26  miles,  leading  to  Philadelphia. 

The  city  of  Trenton,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Delaware,  at  the 
head  of  sloop  navigation,  is  the  capital  of  the  state.  It  is  regu- 
larly laid  out,  and  contains  the  state-house,  state-prison,  and  eight 
churches.  A  wooden  bridge,  1000  feet  in  length,  here  crosses 
the  river,  just  below  the  falls,  and  the  Delaware  and  Raritan 
canal  passes  through  the  city. 

The  falls  afford  extensive  water-power  for  manufacturing  pur- 
poses, and  there  are  10  mills  and  manufactories  in  the  vicinity. 


NEW    JERSEY.  97 

Population,  4000.  Ten  miles  from  Trenton  is  the  village  of 
Princeton,  the  seat  of  New  Jersey  college,  and  celebrated  in  the 
revolutionary  history  for  the  action  of  January  3d,  1777. 

The  city  of  New  Brunswick,  at  the  head  of  sloop  navigation 
on  the  Raritan,  and  at  the  termination  of  the  Delaware  andRari- 
tan  canal,  and  the  New  Jersey  rail-road,  is  the  depot  of  the  pro- 
duce of  a  fertile  district,  and  a  place  of  considerable  trade.  The 
upper  streets  are  spacious  and  handsome,  and  command  a  fine 
prospect.  Here  are  Rutgers  College,  and  a  theological  seminary 
of  the  Dutch  Reformed.  The  population  of  the  city  is  about 
6000. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Raritan  stands  the  city  of  Amboy,  or 
Perth  Amboy,  with  a  good  harbour,  which  is,  however,  little 
used.  Elizabethtown  is  a  pretty  and  thriving  town  near  Newark 
bay,  with  4000  inhabitants :  it  contains  several  mills. 

The  city  of  Newark,  the  largest  and  most  important  town  in 
New  Jersey,  stands  on  the  Passaic,  three  miles  from  Newark 
bay,  and  has  an  easy  communication  with  New  York  by  means 
of  steam-boats  and  the  New  Jersey  rail-road ;  the  Morris  canal 
also  passes  through  the  city.  Newark  is  prettily  situated  and 
well  built,  with  spacious  streets  and  handsome  houses,  many  of 
which  are  ornamented  with  fine  shade  trees.  The  manufactures 
are  extensive,  and  its  surplus  produce  sent  off  is  estimated  to 
amount  to  8,000,000  dollars  yearly.  Carriages,  shoes  and  boots, 
saddlery,  jewelery,  hats,  furniture,  &c.  are  among  the  articles 
produced.  The  population  in  1830,  was  10,953,  and  is  now  about 
20,000. 

Paterson,  at  the  falls  of  the  Passaic,  which  afford  an  immense 
water-power,  and  are  extensively  applied  to  economical  purposes, 
is  one  of  the  principal  manufacturing  towns  in  the  country. 
Here  are  cotton-mills,  with  numerous  other  works,  such  as  paper- 
mills,  machine-shops,  button  factories,  iron  and  brass  founderies, 
nail  factories,  woollen-mills,  &c.  The  town  contains  10  churches, 
and  the  population  increased  from  7731,  in  1830,  to  about 
12,000,  in  1838. 

Below  Trenton,  on  the  Delaware,  is  Bordentown,  pleasantly 
situated  on  elevated  ground  overlooking  the  river,  and  standing 
at  the  termination  of  the  Delaware  and  Raritan  canal.  The  city 
of  Burlington,  below  Bordentown,  is  also  a  neat  little  town  prettily 
situated  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  with  2670  inhabitants.  Steam- 
boats from  Philadelphia  touch  at  these  places  several  times  a  day. 
The  city  of  Camden,  opposite  Philadelphia,  carries  on  some 
branches  of  manufacturing  industry  ;  10  steam  ferry-boats  are 
constantly  plying  between  the  two  cities.     Population,  3000. 

9  K*  113 


98  NORTH  AMERICA. 

POPULATION  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS. 

East  and  West  Jersey,  in  1701,  15,000;  in  1749,  60,000. 

INCREASE.  SLAVES. 

In  1790 184,139 11,423 

1800 211,149       From  1790  to  1800 27,010  ....  12,422 

1810 245,562  1800  to  1810 34,413  ....  10,851 

1820 277,575  1810  to  1820 32,013....    7,557 

1830 320,823  1820  to  1830 43,248....    2,254 

1840 373,306  1830  to  1840 52,483....       674 

Of  the  foregoing  population  of  1840,  there  were,  white  males, 
177,055  ;  white  females,  174,533  ;  deaf  and  dumb,  179  ;  blind, 
152.  Total  whites,  351,588.  Free  coloured  persons,  21,044  ; 
slaves,  674. 


COMMONWEALTH  OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 

This  state,  which,  from  her  central  position,  her  dimensions, 
her  natural  resources,  and  her  population,  may  rank  as  one  of 
the  most  important  in  the  Union,  is  bounded  on  the  north  by 
New  York  and  Lake  Erie,  east  by  New  Jersey,  south-east  by 
Delaware,  south  by  Maryland  and  Virginia,  and  west  by  part  of 
Virginia  and  Ohio.  Its  greatest  length,  from  east  to  west,  is  307 
miles,  and  its  breadth  157 ;  area,  46,000  square  miles. 

The  principal  rivers  are,  the  Delaware,  Schuylkill,  Lehigh, 
Susquehanna,  Juniata,  Alleghany,  Monongahela,  and  Ohio. 
The  various  iidges  of  the  Alleghany  range  intersect  the  central 
parts  of  this  state,  whose  general  direction  is  from  south-west  to 
north-east.  The  valleys  between  many  of  these  ridges  are  often 
of  a  rich  black  soil,  suited  well  to  the  various  kinds  of  grass  and 
grain.  Some  of  the  mountains  admit  of  cultivation  almost  to  their 
summits.  The  state  produces  all  the  fruits  and  productions  of  the 
northern  and  middle  states,  and  is  particularly  famous  for  the 
great  size,  strength,  and  excellence  of  the  breed  of  draught 
horses. 

The  mineral  wealth  of  Pennsylvania  is  very  great,  and, 
although  but  recently  begun  to  be  developed,  already  gives  an 
earnest  of  future  importance.  Coal,  iron,  and  salt  occur  in  vast 
quantities.  The  coal  of  Pennsylvania  is  of  two  kinds,  the  an- 
thracite and  bituminous,  which  are  quite  distinct  in  their  qualities 
and  localities.  The  first  is  found  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  state, 
between  the  Delaware  and  Susquehanna  rivers,  and  is  estimated 
to  cover  an  extent  of  about  624,000  acres.     In  1838,  the  quan- 


PENNSYLVANIA.  99 

tity  sent  from  the  coal  region,  exclusive  of  that  shipped  by  the 
Susquehanna,  was  723,813  tons,  valued  at  more  than  4,000,000 
dollars.  The  bituminous  coal  is  found  in  the  western  parts  of 
the  state :  it  is  supposed  that  about  460,000  tons  are  annually 
consumed  in  Pittsburg,  and  at  the  different  salt-works  on  the 
Kiskiminetas,  &c,  besides  what  is  sent  down  the  river  Ohio  to 
Cincinnati,  New  Orleans,  and  other  towns.  About  1,000,000 
bushels  of  salt  are  manufactured  yearly  at  the  works  on  the 
Kiskiminetas,  Alleghany,  and  Beaver. 

Iron  ore  of  an  excellent  quality  is  abundant  and  extensively 
wrought.  In  1832,  upwards  of  60  furnaces,  and  100  forges, 
produced  near  90,000  tons  of  pig  iron,  blooms,  bar  iron,  and 
castings ;  and  no  doubt  the  amount  has  much  increased  since 
that  time. 

The  manufactures  of  Pennsylvania  constitute  an  important 
branch  of  its  industry  ;  they  include  cotton  and  woollen  goods, 
iron  ware  of  all  kinds,  manufactures  of  leather,  hats,  paper, 
furniture,  porcelain,  &c.  In  the  year  1832,  there  were  67  cot- 
ton factories  in  the  state,  with  an  aggregate  capital  of  3,758,500 
dollars,  and  making  annually  21,332,667  yards  of  cloth.  The 
total  value  of  manufactures,  including  about  250  different  arti- 
cles, is  estimated  at  upwards  of  70,000,000  dollars.  Pennsyl- 
vania has  about  2,000,000  sheep. 

The  foreign  commerce  of  Pennsylvania  is  in  part  carried  on 
through  New  York,  Baltimore,  and  New  Orleans  ;  and  its  actual 
amount  cannot  therefore  be  fully  ascertained.  The  value  of  the 
direct  imports  is  about  15,000,000  dollars;  of  exports,  over 
5,000,000  dollars.  An  active  inland  trade  is  prosecuted  on  her 
canals,  on  Lake  Erie,  and  on  the  Ohio  ;  and  her  coasting-trade 
is  extensive  and  valuable. 

Pennsylvania  has  at  length  aroused  herself  to  the  necessity 
of  providing  the  means  of  education  to  the  children  within  her 
borders.  By  an  act  passed  in  1834,  and  modified  in  1836,  the 
townships  are  authorised  to  raise  money  for  the  support  of  com- 
mon schools,  and  to  draw  additional  sums  for  that  purpose  from 
the  state  treasury.  According  to  a  recent  report  to  the  legisla- 
ture, the  number  of  scholars  taught  under  this  system  already 
amounts  to  254,908,  besides  4867  in  academies,  colleges,  and  the 
university.  In  Philadelphia,  moreover,  a  central  high  school 
has  recently  been  established,  by  which  a  higher  grade  of  edu- 
cation is  bestowed  on  those  who  merit  it  by  superior  conduct  and 
capacity. 

There  are  in  the  state  fifly-five  academies,  two  universities, 
eight  colleges,  five  theological  seminaries,  and  two  medical 
schools.     The  University  of  Pennsylvania   is  in  Philadelphia, 


100  NORTH    AMERICA. 

and  the  medical  school  connected  with  it  is  the  most  distinguish- 
ed and  most  fully  attended  in  the  United  States.  The  Western 
University  is  at  Pittsburg.  Jefferson  College,  at  Canonsburg, 
which  has  a  medical  department  in  Philadelphia ;  Dickinson 
College,  at  Carlisle ;  Alleghany  College,  at  Meadville ;  Wash- 
ington College,  at  Washington  ;  Pennsylvania  College,  at  Get- 
tysburg ;  Lafayette  College,  at  Easton ;  and  Marshall  College, 
at  Mercersburg,  are  now  in  operation.  Girard  College,  endowed 
with  a  fund  of  2,000,000  dollars  by  Mr.  Girard,  and  intended 
for  the  support  and  education  of  destitute  orphans,  will  soon  be 
organized.  The  edifices  for  this  institution  are  nearly  completed, 
and  in  architectural  magnificence  probably  exceed  any  other  in 
the  United  States. 

The  Methodists  and  Presbyterians  are  the  most  numerous  re- 
ligious sects.  The  Lutherans,  Baptists,  German  Reformed,  and 
Friends,  rank  next  in  point  of  numbers ;  after  them,  come  Epis- 
copalians and  Roman  Catholics,  with  some  Moravians  or  United 
Brethren,  Dutch  Reformed,  Universalists,  &c. 

The  works  for  the  improvement  of  internal  intercommunica- 
tion, have  been  executed  partly  by  the  state,  and  partly  by  indi- 
viduals, on  a  grand  scale.  Those  of  the  state  consist  of  several 
divisions  composed  of  rail-roads  and  canals,  extending  across  the 
country  from  tide-water  to  the  Ohio,  and  branching  off  in  differ- 
ent directions  to  almost  every  section  of  the  state.  The  grand 
trunk  extends  from  Philadelphia  to  Pittsburg,  and  is  one  of  the 
most  important  works  of  the  kind  in  the  United  States. 

The  first  division  of  the  work,  from  Philadelphia  to  Columbia 
on  the  Susquehanna,  is  a  rail-road,  81  miles  in  length.  At  Co- 
lumbia the  canal  begins,  and  is  continued  up  the  Susquehanna 
and  Juniata,  to  Holidaysburg,  172  miles.  The  Alleghany  ridge 
is  then  surmounted  by  the  Alleghany  Portage  rail-road,  37  miles 
in  length,  with  a  rise  and  fall  of  2570  feet :  the  summit-level  is 
2490  feet  above  the  sea.  At  Johnstown,  the  route  is  again  con- 
tinued by  a  canal,  down  the  Kiskiminetas  and  Alleghany,  to 
Pittsburg,  104  miles.    Total  by  canal  and  rail-road,  394  miles. 

A  branch  of  this  great  undertaking  is  the  Susquehanna 
canal,  extending  from  the  mouth  of  the  Juniata,  up  the  Susque- 
hanna and  the  North  Branch,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Lackawanna, 
115  miles :  a  second  lateral  division  runs  up  the  West  Branch, 
to  Dunnstown,  66  miles.  The  Delaware  branch  extends  from 
Bristol  to  Easton,  60  miles  :  the  Beaver  Branch,  from  the  town 
of  the  same  name,  up  the  Big  Beaver  and  Shenango  rivers,  to 
Newcastle,  affords  a  navigable  channel  of  30  miles,  by  means 
of  eight  miles  of  excavation,  and  seven  dams  in  the  river.  The 
French  Creek  branch  extends  up  that  river,  from  Franklin,  at 


PENNSYLVANIA.  101 

its  mouth,  to  Meadville  and  Conneaut  Lake :  total  length,  46 
miles,  or,  with  the  lake,  50  miles,  of  which  27  miles  is  by- 
excavation. 

Appropriations  have  been  made  for  continuing  the  Susquehan- 
nah  branch  towards  the  state  line ;  for  extending  the  West 
Branch  division ;  for  continuing  the  canal  in  the  western  part 
of  the  state  toward  Erie ;  and  for  ascertaining,  by  surveys,  the 
practicability  of  connecting  the  West  Branch  with  the  Alleghany 
by  a  canal. 

The  principal  works  constructed  by  companies  are  as  follows  : 
the  Lackawaxen  canal,  extending  from  the  mouth  of  that  river, 
on  the  Delaware,  to  Honesdale,  25  miles,  whence  it  is  continued 
by  a  rail-road  to  Carbondale  coal-mines,  16^  miles:  the  cost  of 
these  works  was  2,000,000  dollars.  The  Lehigh  canal  starts 
from  the  termination  of  the  Morris  and  Delaware  canals,  and 
goes  to  White  Haven,  66  miles :  the  Mauch  Chunk,  Room  Run, 
and  Beaver  Meadow  rail-roads,  connect  this  canal  with  the  first 
and  second  coal  basins. 

The  Schuylkill  canal  connects  Port  Carbon  with  Philadelphia 
by  a  succession  of  pools  and  canals ;  the  whole  length  of  the 
navigation  is  108  miles:  the  cost  of  this  work  was  2,500,000 
dollars.  About  50  miles  of  rail-road  branch  from  this  canal  to 
various  collieries.  The  Union  canal  connects  the  Schuylkill  at 
Reading  with  the  Susquehanna  at  Middletown,  82  miles.  A 
lateral  branch  to  Pine  Grove,  23  miles  up  the  Swatara,  is  con- 
nected by  a  rail-road  with  the  coal-mines. 

The  Susquehanna  canal,  from  Columbia  to  Port  Deposit,  45 
miles,  connects  the  main  trunk  of  the  Pennsylvania  canal  with 
tide-water.  The  Nescopeck  canal,  in  progress,  will  connect  the 
Lehigh  with  the  North  Branch  of  the  Susquehanna.  The 
Mahoning,  or  Pennsylvania  and  Ohio  canal,  connecting  the  Bea- 
ver division  of  the  Pennsylvania  works  with  the  Ohio  canal  at 
Akron,  and  the  Sandy  and  Beaver  canal,  connecting  the  same 
works  through  the  valleys  of  the  Little  Beaver  and  Sandy  rivers, 
are  chiefly  in  Ohio. 

The  principal  rail-roads,  exclusive  of  those  in  the  coal  region, 
are  the  Philadelphia  and  Trenton  rail-road,  connecting  those  two 
cities,  26  miles ;  the  Philadelphia  and  Norristown,  17  miles  ;  the 
Philadelphia  and  Reading,  56  miles ;  the  Central  rail-road  from 
Pottsville  to  Sunbury,  44£  miles,  with  a  branch  to  Danville ;  the 
Philadelphia  and  Baltimore  rail-road,  92^  miles  ;  the  Lancaster 
and  Harrisburg  rail-road,  37  miles;  the  Cumberland  Valley 
rail-road,  from  the  Susquehanna  opposite  Harrisburg,  to  Cham- 
bersburg,  49  miles;  the  Wrightsville  and  Gettysburg  rail-road, 
from  Columbia,  through  York,  to  Gettysburg,  42  miles  ;  the  Sus- 

9  *  1.7 


102  NORTH   AMERICA. 

quehanna  and  Little  Schuylkill  rail-road,  from  Catawissa  to 
Tamaqua ;  the  Williamsport  and  Elmira  rail-road,  from  the 
West  Branch  to  the  Tioga,  74  miles  ;  and  the  continuation  of  the 
Baltimore  and  Susquehanna,  from  the  Maryland  line,  through 
York  to  the  Susquehanna. 

In  prosecuting  her  various  plans  of  internal  improvement, 
Pennsylvania  has  contracted  a  debt  of  40,000,000  dollars ;  but 
the  revenue  from  the  public  canals  and  rail-roads,  which  in  1839 
amounted  to  1,142,633  dollars,  promises,  at  no  distant  period, 
abundantly  to  repay  the  expenditure  ;  whilst  the  state  has  secured 
an  ample  share  of  the  western  trade,  which  would  otherwise  have 
been  lost. 

POPULATION  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS. 

In  1701 20,000 

1763 280,000 

1790 434,373 

1800 602,545 

1810 810,091 

1820 1,049,313 

1830 1,348,233 

1840 1,724,033 


INCREASE. 

SLAVES. 

From  1701  to  1763 

.  260,000  . 

1763  to  1790 

.  154,373  . 

. . .  3,737 

1790  to  1800 

.  168,172  . 

. . .  1,706 

1800  to  1810 

.  207,545  . 

. . .   795 

1810  to  1820 

.  239,222  . , 

...  211 

1820  to  1830 

.  298,920  . . 

, . .  403 

1830  to  1840 

.  375,800  . 

...   64 

Of  the  above  population  of  1840,  there  were,  white  males, 
844,770  ;  white  females,  831,345  ;  deaf  and  dumb,  832  ;  blind, 
637.  Total,  whites,  1,676,115.  Free  coloured  persons,  47,854  ; 
slaves,  64. 

The  city  of  Philadelphia,  the  principal  city  of  the  state,  and 
one  of  the  most  regularly  laid  out  and  handsomely  built  in  the 
world,  stands  between  the  Delaware  and  the  Schuylkill  rivers, 
about  five  miles  above  their  junction,  and  one  hundred  miles 
from  the  sea  by  the  course  of  the  former.  It  yields  to  none  in 
the  Union  in  the  wealth,  industry,  and  intelligence  of  its  citizens. 

Philadelphia  has  the  advantage  of  a  double  port,  connected 
with  very  remote  sections ;  that  on  the  Schuylkill  is  accessible 
to  vessels  of  300  tons,  and  is  the  great  depot  for  the  coal  of  the 
interior ;  the  other,  on  the  Delaware,  admits  the  largest  mer- 
chant-vessels to  the  doors  of  the  ware-houses,  and  is  spacious 
and  secure. 

The  streets  are  broad  and  straight,  crossing  each  other  at 
right  angles,  and  dividing  the  city  into  numerous  squares,  some 
of  which  have  been  reserved  for  public  walks,  and  are  orna- 
mented with  fine  shade  and  flowering  trees.  The  dwelling-houses 
are  neat  and  commodious,  and  the  public  buildings,  generally 
constructed  of  white  marble,  are  the  most  elegant  in  the  country. 
Two  bridges  cross  the  Schuylkill.  Steam-boats  and  rail-roads 
afford  constant  and  easy  communication  with  Baltimore  and  New 


PENNSYLVANIA.  103 

York,  and,  with  the  rail-roads  into  the  interior,  render  this  city  the 
great  thoroughfare  between  the  north  and  south,  and  the  east 
and  west. 

Philadelphia  includes  the  city  proper,  with  Southwark,  Moya- 
mensing,  and  Passyunk,  on  the  south ;  and  Kensington,  North- 
ern Liberties,  Spring  Garden,  and  Penn  Township,  on  the  north  ; 
having  a  population  in  1790,  of  42,520  ;  in  1810,  of  96,664  ;  in 
1830,  of  167,811 ;  and  in  1840,  258,832. 

The  manufactures  of  Philadelphia  are  various  and  extensive : 
her  foreign  commerce  is  considerable :  the  arrivals  from  foreign 
ports  in  1838  having  been  464;  and  the  value  of  her  imports 
being  between  10,000,000  and  12,000,000  dollars  a  year.  Her 
coasting  trade  is  increasing  with  extraordinary  rapidity,  having 
risen  from  1247  arrivals  in  1828,  to  10,860  in  1838:  this  is 
chiefly  owing  to  the  anthracite  coal  trade,  of  which  this  city  is 
the  great  mart.  Her  inland  commerce  is  also  very  extensive, 
and  rapidly  increasing,  in  consequence  of  the  facilities  afforded 
by  the  numerous  canals  and  rail-roads  that  centre  here,  affording 
an  easy  communication  with  all  sections  of  the  state,  and  with 
the  great  western  valley.  There  are  about  500,000  barrels  of 
flour  and  5000  hogsheads  of  tobacco  inspected,  and  upwards  of 
800,000  bushels  of  grain  measured  here  annually. 

The  shipping  belonging  to  the  port  in  1838  was  81,748  tons. 
There  are  in  the  city  16  banks,  with  a  capital  of  51,900,000 
dollars.  Philadelphia  is  noted  for  the  number  and  excellence  of 
its  benevolent  institutions.  Among  these  are  the  Pennsylvania 
hospital,  the  dispensary,  Wills'  hospital  for  the  lame  and  blind ; 
the  institutions  for  the  deaf  and  dumb,  and  for  the  blind ;  the 
Preston  Retreat,  the  alms-house,  magdalen  asylum,  orphan  asy- 
lums, Girard  college  for  orphans,  &c.  The  learned  institutions 
of  Philadelphia  are  equally  distinguished  :  they  are  the  American 
philosophical  society,  the  academy  of  natural  sciences,  the  Penn- 
sylvania historical  society,  and  the  Franklin  institute ;  all  of 
which  have  published  some  valuable  volumes.  The  medical 
schools  are  also  much  frequented  and  highly  celebrated.  The 
city  library,  including  the  Loganian  collection,  consists  of  45,000 
volumes.     There  is  also  an  academy  of  fine  arts  here. 

Free  schools  are  supported  at  the  public  charge,  and  educate 
about  9500  scholars  annually,  at  an  expense  of  about  56,000 
dollars.  The  principal  public  buildings  are  the  United  States 
Bank  and  the  Pennsylvania  Bank,  both  elegant  specimens  of 
classical  architecture  ;  the  mint,  a  handsome  building,  with  Ionic 
porticoes  62  feet  long  on  each  front ;  the  exchange,  95  feet  by 
114,  containing  a  spacious  hall,  news-room,  the  post-office,  &c. ; 
the  Girard  Bank;  the  Girard  College,  a  splendid  structure,  111 


104  NORTH   AMERICA. 

feet  by  169,  with  a  colonnade  of  Grecian  Corinthian  columns, 
entirely  surrounding  it :  all  of  these  buildings  are  of  white  marble. 

The  United  States'  Marine  Asylum,  capable  of  accommodating 
400  men,  with  a  front  of  385  feet ;  the  alms-house,  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Schuylkill,  consisting  of  four  distinct  buildings,  with 
nearly  400  rooms ;  the  state-house,  interesting  from  its  having 
been  the  place  where  the  declaration  of  independence  was  adopted 
and  promulgated ;  the  United  States'  Arsenal,  the  Philadelphia 
Museum  with  the  largest  hall  in  the  United  States,  &c,  also  de- 
serve mention.  There  are  here  110  churches  and  places  of 
public  worship,  including  two  synagogues.  The  state  peniten- 
tiary and  the  county  prison  are  not  less  remarkable  for  their 
architecture,  than  for  their  discipline.  The  latter,  which  is  built 
of  Quincy  granite,  has  a  front  of  310  feet  by  525  in  depth. 

There  is  a  navy-yard  here,  but  ships  of  war  of  the  largest  class 
cannot  ascend  to  the  city  with  their  armament.  The  inhabitants 
are  liberally  supplied  with  water  by  the  Fairmount  works,  con- 
structed at  an  expense  of  432,500  dollars  ;  93  miles  of  iron  pipe 
convey  it  to  all  parts  of  the  city.  The  daily  consumption  in 
summer  is  about  4,000,000  gallons.  The  annual  water-rents 
amount  to  115,000  dollars,  and  the  annual  charge  to  14,000. 

Lancaster  City,  Harrisburg,  Reading,  Easton,  and  Pottsville, 
in  the  eastern  section  of  the  state ;  Pittsburg  and  Beaver  in  the 
western,  are  among  the  most  important  towns  in  Pennsylvania. 

The  city  of  Lancaster,  62  miles  west  of  Philadelphia,  plea- 
santly situated  in  the  fertile  and  highly  cultivated  Conestoga 
valley,  is  one  of  the  handsomest  in  the  state :  its  trade  is  exten- 
sive, and  the  manufactures  various  and  considerable :  it  is  noted 
for  the  superior  quality  of  its  rifles,  coaches,  rail-road  cars,  stock- 
ings, saddlery,  &c.  The  population  amounts  to  about  10,000. 
Lancaster  is  connected  with  Philadelphia  and  Harrisburg  by 
rail-roads,  and  with  the  Susquehannah,  below  Columbia,  by  a 
canal. 

Harrisburg,  the  capital  of  the  state,  stands  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Susquehanna.  The  state-house  is  a  neat  and  commodious 
building,  from  the  cupola  of  which  is  one  of  the  finest  panoramic 
views  in  the  United  States.  Here  are  also  a  court-house  and  a 
number  of  churches.  Population  5000.  Beyond  the  Susque- 
hanna are  the  thriving  towns  of  Carlisle  and  Chambersburg  ; 
the  former  containing  4000,  and  the  latter  3000  inhabitants. 
Carlisle  is  the  seat  of  Dickinson  College. 

Reading,  about  50  miles  north-west  from  Philadelphia,  is  a 
prosperous  town  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Schuylkill,  and  at  the 
termination  of  the  Union  canal.  The  town  is  regularly  built, 
and  was  originally  settled  by  Germans :  several  newspapers  arc 


PENNSYLVANIA.  105 

still  printed  in  that  language,  though  English  is  generally  under- 
stood.    Population,  5856. 

Easton,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Lehigh  and  the  Delaware,  and 
the  termination  of  the  Morris  canal,  is  one  of  the  most  flourishing 
inland  towns  in  the  state.  In  its  immediate  neighbourhood  are 
numerous  flour-mills,  oil-mills,  saw-mills,  &c.  The  situation  is 
highly  picturesque,  and  it  contains  five  churches,  a  manual  labour 
collegiate  institution,  a  library  with  a  mineralogical  cabinet,  &c. 
The  population  is  about  5000.  Pottsville  is  situated  in  a  wild 
district  on  the  Schuylkill,  in  the  midst  of  the  coal  region.  It 
contains  many  handsome  dwellings,  and  its  population,  which  in 
1825  did  not  exceed  300,  amounts  at  present  to  4000.  Mauch 
Chunk,  first  settled  in  1821,  is  also  built  on  very  broken  ground; 
but,  in  addition  to  the  coal  trade,  it  enjoys  the  advantage  of  an 
extensive  water-power,  which  is  used  for  manufacturing  pur- 
poses :  and  its  population  at  present  exceeds  2000.  Wilkesbarre 
stands  in  the  delightful  valley  of  Wyoming,  whose  rural  beauty, 
and  peaceful  shades,  once  stained  with  blood  and  desolated  with 
fire,  have  been  consecrated  by  the  deathless  muse.  Population, 
3000. 

Pittsburg,  the  principal  city  of  Western  Pennsylvania,  is  built 
at  the  junction  of  the  Monongahela  and  the  Alleghany.  The 
city  proper  includes  only  the  tract  between  the  rivers ;  but,  as 
the  towns  of  Birmingham,  Alleghanytown,  &c,  really  form  a 
part  of  Pittsburg,  they  must  properly  be  included  in  its  descrip- 
tion. Perhaps  its  site  is  unrivalled  in  the  world,  commanding  a 
navigation  of  about  50,000  miles,  which  gives  it  access  to  one  of 
the  most  fertile  regions  on  the  face  of  the  globe,  surrounded  by 
inexhaustible  beds  of  the  most  useful  minerals. 

Connected  by  artificial  works  with  the  three  principal  cities  of 
the  Atlantic  border  on  one  side,  and  by  others  not  less  extensive 
with  those  great  inland  seas  that  already  bear  on  their  bosoms 
the  trade  of  industrious  millions,  Pittsburg  is  doubtless  destined 
to  become  one  of  the  most  important  centres  of  population,  in- 
dustry, and  wealth,  in  the  United  States.  The  population  of  the 
place  in  1800  was  about  1600;  in  1820,  10,000;  in  1830, 
12,568  ;  and  in  1840,  21,296  ;  but  including  the  adjacent  towns 
usually  reckoned  as  a  part  of  Pittsburg,  it  is  about  60,000. 

There  are  here  20  large  founderies  and  engine  factories,  with 
numerous  small  works  :  rolling-mills,  cotton  establishments,  white 
lead  factories,  breweries,  saw  and  grist-mills,  glass  works,  with 
brass  founderies,  steel  manufactories,  tanneries,  salt  works,  paper- 
mills,  manufactories  of  cutlery  and  agricultural  implements,  &c, 
are  among  the  374  manufacturing  establishments  of  Pittsburg. 

The  annual  business  of  this  place  is  estimated  at  32  million 

L  121 


106  NORTH    AMERICA. 

dollars.  The  city  is  regularly  built,  but  the  clouds  of  smoke  in 
which  it  is  constantly  enveloped,  give  it  rather  a  dingy  appear- 
ance. Among  the  public  establishments  here,  are  the  Alleghany 
arsenal,  belonging  to  the  United  States,  the  western  penitentiary 
of  the  state,  the  western  university,  a  Presbyterian  and  a  Re- 
formed theological  seminary,  30  churches  and  places  of  worship, 
60  common  and  12  select  schools,  &c.  A  steam-engine  supplies 
the  city  with  1,500,000  gallons  of  water  daily. 

In  the  district  to  the  south  of  Pittsburg,  Washington,  Browns- 
ville, and  Union,  are  thriving  towns.  Canonsburg  is  the  seat  of 
Jefferson  college.  Below  Pittsburg,  Beaver,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river  of  the  same  name,  is  a  thriving  town,  which  is  indebted  for 
its  prosperity  to  the  great  water-power  afforded  by  the  falls  of 
that  stream. 

Numerous  mills  and  manufacturing  establishments  have  re- 
cently been  erected  on  both  sides  of  the  river  above  the  village, 
and  the  whole  population  of  the  neighbourhood  is  about  5000. 
The  completion  of  the  connecting  links  between  the  Ohio  and 
Pennsylvania  canals,  will  give  a  great  impulse  to  the  trade  of 
this  place. 

Erie,  on  the  lake  of  the  same  name,  is  important  on  account 
of  its  harbour,  which  is  protected  by  several  piers.  This  place 
is  increasing  rapidly,  and  bids  fair  to  become  of  considerable 
commercial  importance. 


STATE  OF  DELAWARE. 


The  boundaries  of  this  state  are, — on  the  north  Pennsylvania, 
on  the  south  Maryland,  on  the  east  Delaware  Bay  and  the  At- 
lantic Ocean,  and  on  the  west  Pennsylvania  and  Maryland. 

The  extent  from  north  to  south  is  90  miles ;  from  east  to  west 
25  miles ;  area  in  square  miles  2100.  The  principal  streams, 
besides  the  Delaware,  which  forms  a  part  of  its  boundary,  are 
Brandywine  creek,  Christiana  creek,-  Duck  creek,  Mispillion 
creek  ;  and  Indian,  Choptank,  and  Nanticoke  rivers.  The  gene- 
ral aspect  of  Delaware  is  that  of  an  extended  plain,  mostly  fa- 
vourable for  cultivation. 

The  upper  part  of  the  state  is  generally  a  fine  tract  of  country, 
and  well  adapted  to  the  growing  of  wheat  and  other  grains.  The 
staple  commodity,  however,  is  wheat,  which  is  produced  of  a  su- 
perior quality.  Brandywine  creek,  in  the  upper  part  of  the  state, 
furnishes  water-power  for  great  and  growing  manufacturing  es- 
tablishments. The  chief  articles  are  flour,  cottons,  woollens, 
paper,  and  gunpowder. 


DELAWARE.  107 

This  state  has  a  school-fund  of  8173,000.  There  are  acade- 
mies at  Wilmington,  New  Castle,  Newark,  Smyrna,  Dover,  Mil- 
ford,  Lewistown,  and  Georgetown.  Schools  are  established  in 
every  district  of  four  miles  square.  No  district  is  entitled  to  any 
share  of  the  fund  that  will  not  raise  by  taxation  a  sum  equal  to 
its  share  of  the  income  of  the  fund. 

The  foreign  commerce  of  Delaware  is  inconsiderable,  but  an 
active  coasting-trade  is  carried  on. 

The  Delaware  and  Chesapeake  canal  is  a  highly  important 
work,  from  its  connecting  those  two  great  estuaries  by  a  channel 
navigable  by  sea-vessels  ;  it  is  nearly  14  miles  in  length,  and 
was  constructed  at  an  expense  of  2,200,000  dollars.  Here  is 
also  a  rail-road  extending  across  the  state,  from  New  Castle,  on 
the  Delaware,  to  Frenchtown  on  Elk  river,  16^  miles  long  ;  and 
the  Philadelphia  and  Baltimore  rail-road,  92|  miles  long,  is  one 
of  the  most  important  works  of  that  kind  in  the  Union. 

POPULATION  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS. 

INCREASE.  SLAVES. 

In  1790 59,094 8887 

1800 64,273  From  1790  to  1800 5179 6153 

1810 72,674  1800  to  1810 8401 4177 

1820     72,749  1810  to  1820 75 4509 

1830 76,748  1820  to  1830 3999 3292 

1840 78,085  1830  to  1840 1337 2605 

Of  the  above  population  of  1840,  there  were,  white  males, 
29,259  ;  white  females,  29,302  ;  deaf  and  dumb,  55  ;  blind,  33  ; 
Total,  whites,  58,561.  Free  coloured  persons,  16,919;  slaves, 
2605. 

The  city  of  Wilmington,  pleasantly  situated  near  the  junction 
of  the  Brandywine  and  Christiana,  is  a  well-built,  growing  town, 
and  the  most  important  in  the  state.  It  contains  an  arsenal, 
hospital,  13  churches,  &c,  and  is  well  supplied  with  water  by 
works  on  the  Brandywine.  Its  trade  is  extensive,  and  it  sends 
several  ships  to  the  whale-fishery.  In  the  immediate  vicinity 
there  are  about  100  mills  and  manufactories,  producing  flour, 
paper,  iron-ware,  powder,  and  cotton  and  woollen  goods ;  the 
Brandywine  flour-mills  are  among  the  most  extensive  in  the 
United  States.  The  population  in  1830  was  6628  ;  and  in  1840 
amounted  to  8367. 

New  Castle  is  a  small  but  early  settled  town,  and  was  once 
the  capital  of  the  state.  Dover,  the  seat  of  government,  contains 
the  state-house,  and  about  1500  inhabitants.  Lewistown  is  a 
village  near  Cape  Henlopen,  in  front  of  which  has  been  erected 
the  Delaware  Breakwater.  The  work  consists  of  two  piers,  an 
ice-breaker  1500  feet  in  length,  and  a  breakwater  3600  feet  long, 
not  yet  fully  completed ;  estimated  cost,  2,216,950  dollars. 


108  NORTH    AMERICA. 


SOUTHERN    STATES. 


The  States  of  Maryland,  Virginia,  North  Carolina,  South 
Carolina,  Georgia,  Florida  Territory,  Alabama,  Mississippi,  and 
Lousiana,  are  those  usually  termed  the  Southern  States :  the 
whole  region  extends  from  the  Susquehanna  to  the  Sabine  river: 
its  coasts  are  washed  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean  and  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico :  area  430,000  square  miles,  with  a  population  estimated 
to  amount  at  present  to  5,000,000. 

The  tract  of  country  in  the  Southern  States  bordering  on  the 
Atlantic,  is  a  low  sandy  plain,  from  50  to  100  miles  broad,  and, 
in  general,  covered  with  pine  forests.  Beyond  this,  towards  the 
Alleghanies,  it  becomes  elevated  and  hilly,  and  then  mountainous. 
Those  portions  of  Alabama,  Mississippi,  and  Louisiana,  which 
border  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  are  low  and  level.  In  the  interior 
they  are  diversified,  and  in  some  parts  mountainous.  The  low 
countries  in  all  the  Southern  States  are  mostly  barren,  except  on 
the  borders  of  rivers,  where  the  soil  is  very  fertile. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  Southern  States  are  nearly  all  occupied 
with  agriculture.  The  commerce,  which  is  extensive,  is  princi- 
pally in  the  hands  of  foreigners,  or  of  their  northern  countrymen, 
and  carried  on  in  northern  vessels.  The  great  staples  of  this 
region  are  cotton,  rice,  sugar,  and  tobacco  :  nearly  the  whole  of 
the  cotton  crop  of  the  United  States  is  raised  here,  which,  with 
rice  and  sugar,  is  confined  to  its  southern  section :  in  the  north- 
ern, the  principal  productions  are  tobacco,  wheat,  and  corn ;  in 
the  low  regions  of  the  Carolinas,  pitch-pine  grows  in  great  per- 
fection ;  and  tar,  pitch,  turpentine,  and  lumber,  are  the  staples 
of  these  districts.  Gold  is  almost  exclusively  confined  to  the 
upper  and  middle  portions  of  this  region,  and  is  now  so  exten- 
sively found  as  to  have  become  an  object  of  national  importance. 

The  population  is  chiefly  of  English  descent,  but  is  in  some 
places  somewhat  mixed.  There  are  many  descendants  of  the 
French  and  Spanish,  particularly  in  Louisiana  and  Florida.  In 
Louisiana  the  French  language  is  extensively  spoken,  and  the 
laws  and  some  of  the  newspapers  are  printed  both  in  that  tongue 
and  in  English. 

The  negroes,  who  form  about  two-fifths  of  the  population,  con- 
stitute a  separate  class,  and  are,  with  the  exception  of  the  free 
blacks,  all  held  in  slavery.  The  Indians,  once  numerous,  have 
nearly  all  removed  to  the  territory  assigned  for  their  residence 
by  Congress,  west  of  the  Mississippi  river.  A  few  Seminole  In- 
dians, however,  still  remain  in  the  southern  parts  of  Florida. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  Southern  States  are  seldom  collected 


SOUTHERN   STATES. 


View  of  Baltimore. 


View  of  Washington  City. 


Capitol,  Washington  City. 
L* 


NORTH    AMERICA 


Cotton  Plant. 


Coreopsis  Tinctoria. 


American  Fly-trap  plant. 


Side-saddle  plant. 


The  Fly-trap  plant  has  at  the  end  of  each  of  its  leaves  a  curious  apparatus,  on  which  if  a  fly 
alights  it  shuts  up  like  a  trap,  inclosing  and  killing  the  insect.  One  of  these  plants  was,  for 
experiment,  fed  with  small  portions  of  raw  beef,  and  found  to  thrive. 

The  leaves  of  the  Side-saddle  plant  are  pitcher-shaped,  and  always  half  full  of  a  fluid, 
which  appears  to  attract  insects,  numbers  being  found  dead  at  the  bottom.  The  inside  of  the 
lobe  or  pitcher  is  covered  with  hairs  pointing  downwards,  which  effectually  prevents  the  return 
of  any  insect  which  enters  its  mouth. 


Turkey  Buzzard. 


Virginian  Nightingale. 


126 


MARYLAND.  109 

together  in  villages  and  towns,  like  their  northern  countrymen, 
but  live  in  a  scattered  manner  over  the  country.  This  is  in  a 
measure  owing  to  the  predominance  of  agriculture  over  commer- 
cial and  mechanical  occupations,  but  principally  to  the  circum- 
stance that  the  bulk  of  the  labour  is  performed  by  slaves. 

Instead  of  small  proprietors,  tilling  their  little  farms  with  their 
own  hands,  we  here  find  extensive  plantations  cultivated  under 
the  direction  of  the  owner  or  his  agent,  who  merely  attends  to 
the  pecuniary  affairs,  directs  the  operations  and  oversees  the 
labourers.  This  state  of  things  has  a  decided  influence  upon  the 
manners  and  character  of  the  people,  yet  there  are  individual 
differences  so  great  that  no  general  description  will  apply  equally 
to  the  Virginian,  the  Carolinian,  and  the  Louisianian. 

Generosity,  great  hospitality,  a  high  sense  of  honour,  and  a 
manly  independence  of  thought  and  conduct,  are  among  the 
favourable  traits  of  the  southern  character.  The  poorer  class  of 
whites  are  in  general  less  frugal  and  industrious,  and  enjoy  fewer 
advantages  in  respect  to  education  and  religious  instruction,  than 
the  same  class  in  the  Northern  States. 

Although  a  few  of  the  southern  cities  have  attained  a  respecta- 
ble magnitude,  they  have  not  as  yet  secured  that  commercial 
preponderance  which  distinguishes  the  great  marts  of  the  North- 
ern and  Middle  States. 

The  rivers  of  the  Southern  States,  south  of  Chesapeake  Bay, 
are  generally  distinguished  by  sluggish  currents,  and  sand-bars 
at  their  mouths.  Although  there  is  no  stream,  exclusively  be- 
longing to  this  section  of  the  Union,  that  can  be  ranked  in  point 
of  extent  with  the  great  rivers  of  the  country,  there  are  several 
which,  from  the  length  of  their  course  and  the  volume  of  water 
which  they  afford,  would  in  other  countries  be  considered  as  large 
streams  ;  and  there  are  not  a  few  which  furnish  useful  navigable 
channels.  The  population  of  the  Southern  States  in  1840  was 
5,161,219;*  of  whom  2,936,842  were  whites;  179,850  free 
coloured;  and  2,036,695  slaves. 


STATE  OF  MARYLAND. 
Maryland  is  bounded  north  by  Pennsylvania  and  Delaware ; 
east  by  Delaware  and  the  Atlantic ;  south-west  and  west  by  Vir- 
ginia. Length  196  miles,  and  120  miles  in  breadth;  area  in 
square  miles  10,950,  in  acres  7,008,000.  The  principal  rivers 
are  the  Potomac,  which  divides  it  from  Virginia ;  the  Susque- 
hanna, Patapsco,  Pawtuxcnt,  Elk,  Sassafras,  Chester,  Choptank, 
Nanticoke,  and  Pocomoke. 

7QLInciudi".^, the  P°Pulati°n  of  Lu  Fayette  parish,  Louisiana,  estimated  at 
to-54,  oi  which  the  different  classes  are  unknown. 

10  127 


110  NORTH    AMERICA. 

The  maritime  part  of  this  state  is  penetrated  far  into  the  inte- 
rior by  Chesapeake  Bay,  dividing  it  into  two  distinct  portions, 
called  the  eastern  and  western  shores.  Above  the  tide-waters, 
the  land  becomes  agreeably  undulating.  Beyond  this  commences 
the  Alleghany  mountains,  with  their  numerous  ridges :  the  val- 
leys between  them  are  of  a  loamy  and  rich  soil,  yielding  fine 
wheat  and  all  the  productions  of  the  middle,  together  with  some 
of  those  of  the  southern  states.  The  national  road  passes  through 
the  wide  and  fertile  valleys  in  which  Frederick  and  Hagerstown 
are  situated. 

In  manufactures  and  commerce,  Maryland  sustains  a  very 
respectable  rank  ;  numerous  woollen  and  cotton  mills,  copper  and 
iron  rolling-mills,  are  established  in  and  near  Baltimore,  and  in 
other  parts  of  the  state.  Flour  and  tobacco  are  the  staple  pro- 
ductions :  the  exports  of  the  former  are  very  great,  and  of  the 
latter  the  product  is  considerable  and  of  excellent  quality. 

The  herring  and  shad  fisheries  are  actively  carried  on,  and 
yield  valuable  returns,  constituting  an  important  article  of  trade, 
as  well  as  of  home  consumption.  The  commerce  of  Maryland  is 
extensive,  and  her  ports  serve  as  the  outlets  of  large  tracts  of 
productive  country  in  Virginia,  Pennsylvania,  and  the  Western 
States,  whose  consumption  is  also  in  part  supplied  through  the 
same  channels.  Her  imports  from  foreign  countries  amounted 
in  1838  to  5,701,869  dollars ;  her  exports  to  4,524,581  dollars; 
and  her  coasting  trade  is  also  valuable. 

There  is  a  free  school  fund  of  50,000  dollars,  belonging  to 
different  counties,  and  appropriated  to  the  education  of  indigent 
children ;  and  the  proceeds  of  a  small  school  fund  belonging  to 
the  state,  are  also  applied  to  the  same  object.  The  state  also 
grants  annually  a  sum  of  5000  dollars  to  the  University  of  Ma- 
ryland, and  a  further  sum,  amounting  in  1835  to  18,600  dollars, 
to  other  colleges,  academies,  and  schools. 

The  colleges  are  St.  John's  college,  at  Annapolis  ;  St.  Mary's 
at  Baltimore,  Mount  St.  Mary's  at  Emmetsburg,  and  Mount 
Hope,  near  Baltimore.  The  academical  and  medical  depart- 
ments of  the  University  of  Maryland,  at  Baltimore,  are  in  opera- 
tion, and  there  is  also  another  medical  school,  styled  the  Wash- 
ington Medical  College,  in  the  same  city. 

The  Roman  Catholics,  Episcopalians,  and  Methodists,  are  the 
prevailing  sects ;  and  the  Presbyterians,  Baptists,  German  Reform- 
ed, and  Friends,  are  pretty  numerous.  There  are  also  some  Uni- 
versalists,  Lutherans,  Swedenborgians,  Tunkers,  and  Menonists. 

The  canals  and  rail-roads  of  Maryland  are  on  a  large  scale ; 
the  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  canal  is  to  extend  from  Georgetown  to 
Pittsburgh,  340  miles  ;  it  is  completed  to  a  point  above  Williams- 


MARYLAND.  Ill 

port,  107  miles,  and  is  in  progress  to  Cumberland,  185  miles,  an 
appropriation  of  3,000,000  dollars  having  recently  been  made  by 
the  state  to  enable  the  company  to  finish  this  section  of  the  work. 
The  cost  of  this  work,  thus  far,  is  estimated  to  have  been  about 
4,400,000  dollars.  The  legislature  of  the  state  has  also  appro- 
priated 1,000,000  dollars  for  the  construction  of  branches  to  Bal- 
timore and  Annapolis. 

The  Susquehanna  canal,  extending  from  Columbia  to  Port 
Deposit,  now  completed,  is  45  miles  in  length.  The  Baltimore 
and  Ohio  rail-road  is  completed  to  Harper's  Ferry,  80  miles, 
where  it  is  connected  with  the  Winchester  rail-road ;  the  work  is 
now  going  on  towards  Cumberland,  and  an  appropriation  of 
3,000,000  dollars  has  been  made  by  the  state ;  a  like  sum  has 
been  subscribed  by  the  city  of  Baltimore :  the  state  of  Virginia, 
and  the  city  of  Wheeling,  have  subscribed  a  million  dollars  each, 
to  aid  in  its  completion.  A  branch  has  been  constructed  to 
Washington,  a  distance  of  32  miles,  from  a  point  about  8  miles 
from  Baltimore.  It  has  been  ascertained  by  surveys,  to  be  prac- 
ticable to  carry  this  rail-road  over  the  Alleghany  mountains,  at 
an  elevation  of  2278  feet,  without  the  use  of  inclined  planes. 

The  Baltimore  and  Philadelphia  rail-road  is  partly  in  this  state : 
the  whole  extent  of  this  work  is  92i  miles.  The  Baltimore  and 
Susquehanna  rail-road  extends  from  Baltimore,  by  York,  to  the 
Susquehanna,  73  miles.  A  rail-road  from  the  northern  part  of 
the  Eastern  shore  to  Pocomoke  Bay  is  contemplated. 

POPULATION  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS. 

In  1660,  12,000;  in  1677,  16,000;  in  1701,  25,000;  in  1733,  36,000;  in 
1749,  85,000;  in  1755,  108,000;  in  1763,  70,000  whites. 

INCREASE.  SLAVES. 

In  1790 317,728 103,036 

1800 345,824       From  1790  to  1800 26,096 108,554 

1810 380,546  1800  to  1810 35,722 111,502 

1820 407,350  1810  to  1820 16,804  ....  107,398 

1830 446,913  1820  to  1830 39,563 102,878 

1840 469,273  1830  to  1840 22,360 89,536 

Of  the  above  population  of  1840,  there  were,  white  males, 
158,636;  white  females,  159,081  ;  deaf  and  dumb,  244;  blind, 
256.  Total  whites,  317,717.  Free  coloured  persons,  62,020. 
Slaves,  89,536. 

Baltimore,  the  principal  city  of  the  state,  and,  in  point  of  popu- 
lation, the  third  in  the  Union,  stands  on  an  arm  of  Patapsco  Bay, 
about  14  miles  from  the  Chesapeake,  and  200  from  the  sea.  The 
harbour  is  capacious  and  safe,  and  consists  of  an  inner  basin, 
into  which  vessels  of  200  tons  can  enter,  and  an  outer  harbour, 
at  Fell's  Point,  accessible  to  the  largest  merchant-ships.  The 
entrance  is  commanded  and  defended  by  Fort  M'Henry. 


112  NORTH    AMERICA. 

Baltimore  possesses  nearly  the  whole  trade  of  Maryland,  that 
of  part  of  western  Virginia  and  Pennsylvania,  and  the  Western 
States ;  and  its  inland  communication  has  been  extended  and 
facilitated,  by  the  construction  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  rail-road. 
Manufactures  of  cotton,  woollen,  paper,  powder,  alum,  pottery 
&c.,  are  likewise  numerous  in  the  city  and  neighbourhood.  Ship- 
building also  is  carried  on  to  a  considerable  extent  in  Baltimore. 
Her  builders  are  famous  for  the  construction  of  fast-sailing  craft, 
which  are  in  demand  in  foreign  ports :  46  vessels  were  built 
here  in  1837.  The  commerce  of  Baltimore  is  large  and  in- 
creasing. The  number  of  arrivals  from  foreign  countries  in  the 
year  1838,  amounted  to  408.  The  annual  inspections  of  flour  em- 
brace about  500,000  barrels,  and  of  tobacco,  35,000  hogsheads. 
The  number  of  banks  is  ten,  with  a  capital  of  about  7,000,000 
dollars.  The  public  buildings  are  56  churches,  two  hospitals,  a 
penitentiary,  exchange,  the  college  and  university  halls,  &c. 

The  battle  monument,  erected  in  memory  of  the  successful 
defence  of  the  city,  when  attacked  by  the  British,  in  1814,  is  an 
elegant  marble  obelisk,  35  feet  high,  on  which  are  inscribed  the 
names  of  those  who  fell  in  that  gallant  affair.  The  Washington 
monument  is  the  most  splendid  structure  of  the  kind  in  the  coun- 
try :  it  is  a  Doric  column  of  white  marble,  with  a  circular  stair- 
case inside,  by  which  you  ascend  to  the  top ;  the  column  is  140 
feet  in  height,  and  20  feet  in  diameter  at  bottom ;  it  stands  upon 
a  base  23  feet  high,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  colossal  statue  of 
the  Father  of  his  Country.  The  Exchange  is  a  large  and  hand- 
some edifice,  366  feet  by  140 ;  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral 
is,  perhaps,  the  finest  church  in  the  country,  and  it  contains 
some  good  paintings. 

The  citizens  of  Baltimore  are  not  more  distinguished  for  their 
bold  and  persevering  enterprise,  than  for  hospitality  and  agreea- 
ble manners.  In  1765,  there  were  not  more  than  50  houses  on 
the  site  of  the  city;  in  1800,  the  population  had  increased  to 
23,971  ;  in  1820,  to  62,738 ;  in  1830,  to  80,625  ;  and  in  1840, 
it  amounted  to  101,378. 

The  city  of  Annapolis,  agreeably  situated  on  the  Severn,  three 
miles  from  Chesapeake  Bay,  is  the  capital  of  the  state.  It  is 
regularly  laid  out,  with  the  streets  diverging  1'rom  the  state-house 
'  and  the  Episcopal  church.  The  state-house  is  a  handsome  build- 
ing, in  which  the  old  Congress  held  some  of  their  sessions  ;  here 
is  likewise  the  state  library  of  10,000  volumes.  Population, 
3000. 

Frederick  city,  47  miles  west  of  Baltimore,  is,  in  point  of 
wealth,  elegance,  and  population,  the  second  city  in  Maryland. 
A  branch  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  rail-road  terminates  here. 


DISTRICT    OF    COLUMBIA.  113 

The  population  of  this  flourishing  place  is  8000.  North-west 
from  Frederick  city  and  near  the  north  line  of  the  state,  is  Ha- 
gerstown,  a  well-built  and  flourishing  town,  containing  the  usual 
county  buildings,  several  churches  and  academies,  and  a  popula- 
tion of  4000  souls.  Williamsport,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Cono- 
cocheague,  is  a  flourishing  village,  on  the  route  of  the  Baltimore 
and  Ohio  rail-road  and  the  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  canal. 


DISTRICT  OF  COLUMBIA. 

This  is  a  territory  of  ten  miles  square,  under  the  immediate 
government  of  Congress.  It  is  divided  into  two  counties  and 
three  cities,  the  counties  and  cities  being  separate.  The  cities 
are  Washington,  Alexandria,  and  Georgetown ;  the  counties, 
Washington  and  Alexandria.  This  district  lies  on  both  sides  of 
the  Potomac,  120  miles  from  its  mouth,  between  Maryland  and 
Virginia,  and  was  ceded  to  the  general  government  by  those 
states  in  1790.  The  population  of  the  District  amounted,  in 
1840,  to  43,712,  of  which  4694  were  slaves,  and  8361  free 
coloured  persons. 

The  city  of  Washington  was  laid  out,  under  the  superintend- 
ence of  the  great  man  whose  name  it  bears,  in  1791,  and  became 
the  seat  of  government  in  1800.  It  stands  in  the  centre  of  the 
District,  upon  the  north  bank  of  the  Potomac.  The  plan  of  the 
city  combines  regularity  with  variety,  and  is  adapted  to  the  varia- 
tions of  the  surface,  so  that  the  spaces  allotted  to  public  buildings 
occupy  commanding  positions,  and  the  monotonous  sameness 
of  a  rectangular  design  is  avoided,  while  all  its  advantages  are 
secured. 

Washington  is  the  residence  of  the  President  of  the  United 
States,  and  of  the  other  chief  executive  officers  of  the  Federal 
Government,  and  of  foreign  ministers  to  the  United  States.  The 
Congress  meets  here  annually  on  the  first  Monday  of  December  ; 
and  the  Supreme  Federal  Court  also  holds  its  annual  sessions 
here. 

The  population  of  the  city  in  1830  was  18,827,  including 
3129  free  blacks,  and  2319  slaves;  but  in  1840  it  amounted  to 
22,777.  During  the  session  of  Congress  the  city  is  thronged 
with  visiters  from  all  parts  of  the  world.  The  buildings  which 
it  contains  are  in  three  distinct  parts :  one  portion  being  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  navy-yard,  another  in  that  of  the  capitol, 
and  another  in  the  Pennsylvania  Avenue,  which  extends  from 
the  capitol  to  the  President's  house.  The  city  presents  the  ap- 
!0*  i3i 


114  NORTH    AMERICA. 

pearance  of  a  group  of  villages ;  the  spaces  between  the  inhabited 
parts  not  being  occupied  or  marked  out. 

The  Capitol  is  a  large  and  magnificent  building  of  white  free- 
stone, 352  feet  long,  in  the  shape  of  a  cross,  with  the  Represent- 
atives' Hall  and  the  Senate  Chamber  in  the  two  wings,  and  a 
spacious  rotundo  in  the  centre.  The  Representatives'  Hall  is 
semicircular,  95  feet  in  length,  and  60  in  height,  lighted  from 
the  top,  and  adorned  with  a  colonnade  of  pillars,  beautifully 
polished ;  it  is  one  of  the  most  elegant  halls  in  the  world. 

The  Senate  Chamber  is  of  the  same  shape,  and  74  feet  long. 
The  rotundo  is  96  feet  in  diameter,  and  is  96  feet  high  to  the  top 
of  the  dome  within.  It  is  all  of  marble,  and  the  floor  is  beauti- 
fully paved ;  the  whole  has  a  most  grand  and  imposing  effect. 
Several  pieces  of  sculpture  are  placed  in  niches  in  the  walls, 
representing  events  in  American  history.  The  national  library 
is  contained  in  the  capitol,  which  embraces  also  a  series  of  national 
paintings  by  Trumbull. 

The  President's  house,  built  of  freestone,  is  two  stories  high, 
with  a  lofty  basement,  and  it  has  a  front  of  180  feet,  adorned 
with  an  Ionic  portico ;  it  is  surrounded  by  extensive  grounds. 
On  each  side  are  the  four  offices  of  the  executive  departments  ; 
the  war  office  contains  a  gallery  of  Indian  portraits,  and  the  state 
office  several  interesting  original  papers,  as  the  declaration  of 
independence,  Washington's  commission,  &c.  There  are  also 
here  an  arsenal  and  a  navy-yard,  with  a  city  hall,  and  hospital, 
penitentiary,  20  churches,  the  halls  of  Columbia  college,  &c.  A 
branch  of  the  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  canal  terminates  in  the  city. 

Georgetown  is  about  three  miles  west  of  the  capitol.  The 
houses  are  chiefly  of  brick,  and  there  are  many  elegant  villas  in 
different  parts.  The  Catholic  college  here  is  a  respectable  insti- 
tution. Georgetown  is  a  thriving  place,  and  has  considerable 
commerce ;  but  the  navigation  of  the  river  is  obstructed  by  a  bar 
just  below  the  town ;  here  is  also  a  cannon  foundery.  The  Chesa- 
peake and  Ohio  canal  reaches  the  Potomac  at  this  place.  Popu- 
lation, 4000. 

The  city  of  Alexandria,  six  miles  below  Washington,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  Potomac,  carries  on  an  extensive  trade  in 
flour,  tobacco,  &c,  and  is  actively  engaged  in  the  valuable  shad 
and  herring  fisheries  of  the  river.  The  city  is  regularly  laid  out, 
and  prettily  situated ;  and  it  has  a  good  harbour,  with  commo- 
dious wharves,  accessible  to  the  largest  ships.  Here  are  a  high 
school,  a  girls'  boarding-school  under  the  charge  of  the  Sisters 
of  Charity,  an  orphan  asylum,  nine  churches,  several  tanneries, 
engine  manufactories,  founderies,  cotton-mills,  &c.  Population, 
9000. 


VIRGINIA.  115 

COMMONWEALTH  OF  VIRGINIA. 

.Nature  has  bestowed  on  Virginia  advantage  of  position,  soil, 
climate,  and  navigable  rivers.  She  is  often  distinguished  by  the 
title  of  the  Ancient  Dominion,  probably  from  the  circumstance 
of  her  having  been  the  first  settled  of  the  colonies. 

This  state  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Maryland,  Pennsylva- 
nia, and  Ohio ;  south  by  North  Carolina  and  Tennessee ;  east  by 
Maryland  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  and  on  the  west  by  Kentucky 
and  Ohio.  Extent  from  north  to  south,  220  miles ;  from  east  to 
west,  370  miles.     Area,  about  70,000  square  miles. 

Every  portion  of  Virginia  is  penetrated  by  fine  rivers  and 
streams,  useful  either  as  channels  of  navigation,  or  for  mechani- 
cal purposes.  The  principal  rivers  are  the  Potomac,  Shenan- 
doah, James,  Rappahannock,  Mattapony,  Pamunky,  York,  Ap- 
pomattox, Elizabeth,  Nottoway,  Meherrin,  Ohio,  Great  Kanawha, 
and  the  Monongahela  and  its  principal  branches. 

The  Alleghany  range  of  mountains,  with  its  numerous  ridges, 
covers  the  whole  middle  section  of  this  state,  and  gives  it  a  rin- 
ged surface.  The  country  east  of  the  mountains  descends  gra- 
dually to  the  flat  and  sandy  alluvion  of  the  coast.  The  district 
west  of  the  mountains  is  hilly.  The  soil  varies  greatly,  being 
sandy  and  sterile  on  the  coast,  very  fertile  on  the  banks  of  rivers, 
and  productive  in  the  valleys  of  the  Alleghanies. 

To  the  productions  common  to  the  northern  and  middle  sec- 
tions of  the  Union,  this  state  adds  the  sweet  potato,  the  finest  to- 
bacco, and  in  the  southern  parts  cotton  as  a  crop.  The  tempera- 
ture, soil,  and  circumstances,  are  supposed  to  be  favourable  in 
the  highest  degree  to  the  cultivation  of  the  grape  and  the  silk 
mulberry. 

The  mineral  wealth  of  Virginia  is  boundless ;  gold,  copper, 
lead,  iron,  coal,  salt,  limestone;  thermal,  chalybeate,  and  sul- 
phuretted springs ;  excellent  marbles,  granites,  soap-stones  and 
sand-stones,  &c,  are  among  the  treasures  as  yet  for  the  most 
part  lying  idle  in  the  bowels  of  the  earth.  Mining  industry  has, 
however,  recently  taken  a  start,  and  will  doubtless  soon  afford 
profitable  employment  to  many  of  the  inhabitants. 

Of  the  metallic  products  of  Virginia,  gold  is  at  present  the 
most  important.  It  is  found  on  both  sides  of  the  North  and 
Rapid  Ann  rivers,  of  the  North  and  South  Anna  near  their  heads, 
of  the  Rivanna  in  the  lower  part  of  its  course,  and  of  the  James 
river  above  and  below  the  mouth  of  the  Rivanna.  Several  com- 
panies, in  different  parts  of  the  gold  region,  are  at  present  work- 
ing mines,  some  of  which  promise  to  yield  a  handsome  remu- 
neration. 


116  NORTH   AMERICA. 

Vast  fields  of  coal  exist  in  Virginia,  both  of  the  bituminous 
and  anthracite  kinds  ;  of  the  former,  great  beds  have  been  found 
spreading  over  an  extent  of  many  miles.  The  mineral  has  been 
mined  and  exported  in  considerable  quantities  from  the  vicinity 
of  Richmond,  for  many  years  past.  Iron  ore  exists  also  in  vast 
quantities,  in  various  parts ;  in  some  places  it  is  found  between 
immense  layers  of  coal. 

Salt  springs  occur  at  various  places ;  at  some  of  which  works 
for  manufacturing  the  water  into  salt  have  been  erected :  the 
most  important  are  on  the  Great  Kanawha  river,  in  the  vicinity 
of  Charleston.  The  quantity  made  here  is  about  3,000,000 
bushels  annually.  Virginia  contains  a  profusion  of  mineral 
springs,  of  great  and  various  virtues,  many  of  which  have  ac- 
quired much  reputation  for  their  medicinal  properties,  and  some 
of  them  are  much  resorted  to. 

The  state  has  a  fund  for  internal  improvement  amounting  to 
nearly  7,737,748  dollars,  the  income  of  which,  exceeding  306,000 
dollars,  is  applied,  under  the  direction  of  a  board  of  public  works, 
to  aid  in  useful  undertakings  for  facilitating  the  intercommuni- 
cation between  different  parts  of  the  state.  The  Dismal  Swamp 
canal  unites  Deep  creek  with  Joyce's  creek,  and  thus  connects 
Chesapeake  Bay  with  Albemarle  Sound.  But  the  greatest  work 
undertaken  in  this  state  is  the  James  and  Kanawha  communica- 
tion, which  comprises  canals  and  dams  for  the  improvement  of 
James  river  above  Richmond,  a  canal  connecting  its  head  waters 
with  the  New  river,  and  the  improvement  of  the  navigation  of 
that  river  and  the  Kanawha  to  Charleston.  The  portion  of  the 
work  between  Richmond  and  Lynchburg  is  in  an  advanced  state, 
and  the  continuation  above  that  point  is  also  in  progress. 

Several  important  rail-roads  have  been  constructed.  The  Pe- 
tersburg and  Roanoke  rail-road  extends  from  Petersburg  to 
Blakely  on  the  Roanoke,  60  miles.  A  continuation  of  this  work 
to  Richmond,  22  miles,  and  the  Richmond  and  Potomac  rail-road, 
from  Richmond  through  Fredericksburg  to  the  Potomac,  75  miles, 
completes  the  connection  between  the  Potomac  and  Roanoke. 
The  Winchester  rail-road  extends  from  Winchester  to  Harper's 
Ferry,  30  miles,  and  is  there  connected  with  the  Baltimore  and 
Ohio  rail-road.  The  Portsmouth  and  Roanoke  rail-road  extends 
from  Portsmouth,  opposite  Norfolk,  to  Weldon,  on  the  Roanoke, 
80  miles. 

The  literary  fund  belonging  to  the  state  amounts  to  1,413,556 
dollars,  and  the  revenue  from  the  same  to  102,590  dollars.  In 
1817,  a  permanent  appropriation  was  made  of  45,000  dollars  a 
year  for  the  instruction  of  poor  children,  to  be  distributed  among 
the  several  counties  and  towns  in  proportion  to  their  white  popu- 


VIRGINIA.  117 

lation.  There  are  numerous  grammar-schools  and  academies  in 
the  state,  and  in  many  families  the  children  are  instructed  by 
domestic  tutors. 

The  college  of  William  and  Mary,  at  Williamsburg,  is  the 
oldest  in  the  United  States  after  Harvard  college;  it  was  char- 
tered in  1691.  The  University  of  Virginia,  established  at  Char- 
lottesville, is,  however,  the  most  important  institution  in  the  state ; 
the  university  went  into  operation  in  1825,  and  it  receives  15,000 
dollars  a  year  from  the  state;  the  library  consists  of  10,500 
volumes.  Washington  college  at  Lexington,  Hampden-Sidney 
college  in  Prince  Edward  county,  and  Randolph-Macon  college 
in  Mecklenburg,  are  respectable  institutions. 

The  theological  schools  are,  an  Episcopal  Seminary  in  Fairfax 
county,  the  Union  Seminary  founded  by  the  Presbyterians  in 
Prince  Edward  county,  and  the  Virginia  Baptist  Seminary  near 
Richmond.  The  predominant  religious  sects  are  Baptists,  Metho- 
dists, Presbyterians,  and  Episcopalians.  The  Lutherans  and 
Reformed  Baptists  are  also  numerous,  and  there  are  some  Roman 
Catholics,  Friends,  and  Tunkers. 

POPULATION  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS. 

In  1642,  20,000;  in  1660,  30,000;  in  1703,  60,606,  m  1749,  85,000;  in 
1763,  170,000 ;  viz.  about  70,000  whites,  and  100,000  negroes. 


INCREASE. 

SLAVES. 

INCREASE 

In  1790  . . 

. .  747  610 

292,627 

1800  . . 

. .  880,200 

From  1790  to  1800.. 

.  132,590 

346,968 

54,341 

1810  .. 

. .  974,622 

1800  to  1810. . 

.  94,422 

392,518 

45,550 

1820  . . 

. .  1,065,366 

1810  to  1820.. 

.  90,744 

425,153 

32,635 

1830  . . 

..  1,211,405 

1820  to  1830.. 

.  146,039 

469,724 

44,571 

1840  . . 

. .  1,236,073 

1830  to  1840.. 

.  24,668 

448,987 

Of  the  above  population  of  1840,  there  were,  white  males, 
361,223  ;  white  females,  379,745;  deaf  and  dumb,  603  ;  blind, 
892.  Total,  whites,  740,968.  Free  coloured  persons,  46,118  ; 
slaves,  448,987. 

Richmond,  the  capital  of  the  state,  stands  on  James  river  upon 
several  eminences,  which  command  fine  views  of  the  surround- 
ing country,  and  give  to  the  city  an  air  of  singular  beauty. 
The  western  division  occupies  a  high  plain,  called  Shockoe  Hill, 
overlooking  the  lower  town,  and  containing  a  beautiful  square  of 
about  ten  acres,  which  is  adorned  with  fine  shade  trees,  and  laid 
out  in  gravelled  walks  ;  here,  in  a  commanding  situation,  stands 
the  capitol,  or  state-house,  one  of  the  most  elegant  structures  in 
the  United  States,  containing  a  statue  of  Washington  by  Houdon  ; 
and  contiguous  to  it  is  the  city  hall,  a  neat  edifice  of  the  Doric 
order.  The  other  public  buildings  are  the  armoury,  penitentiary, 
J  6  churches,  a  theatre.  &c.      The  city  is  supplied  with  pure 


118  NORTH    AMERICA. 

water  from  three  reservoirs,  each  containing  1,000,000  gallons, 
and  filled  by  two  pumps,  which  raise  at  the  rate  of  800,000  gal- 
lons in  the  24  hours. 

Richmond  is  110  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river,  which  car- 
ries 14  feet  of  water  till  within  a  few  miles  of  the  city,  and  affords 
boat  navigation  for  220  miles  above  the  falls.  These  advantages 
enable  it  to  carry  on  an  extensive  trade,  both  inland  and  by  sea ; 
the  annual  value  of  the  exports  being  about  3,000,000  dollars,  in 
addition  to  a  valuable  coasting  trade.  Large  quantities  of  wheat, 
flour,  tobacco,  &c,  are  brought  down  by  the  James  River  canal. 

The  falls  of  the  river,  immediately  above  the  city,  afford  an 
unlimited  water-power,  which  is  largely  applied  to  manufacturing 
purposes  ;  there  are  here,  and  in  the  village  of  Manchester,  oppo- 
site to  Richmond,  four  large  flour-mills,  grinding  annually  about 
700,000  bushels  of  wheat ;  four  cotton-mills,  tobacco  manufac- 
tories, a  cannon  foundery,  two  rolling  and  slitting-mills,  paper- 
mills,  &c.  The  population  in  1830  was  16,060;  at  present, 
including  that  of  Manchester,  which  is  connected  with  it  by  a 
bridge,  it  exceeds  20,000.  A  rail-road  extends  from  Manchester 
to  the  coal-mines,  on  the  same  side  of  the  river,  13  miles,  which 
yield  at  present  above  50,000  tons  of  coal  annually. 

The  principal  sea-port  of  this  state  is  Norfolk,  which  is  situ- 
ated on  the  Elizabeth  river,  eight  miles  from  Hampton  Roads. 
Its  harbour  is  deep  and  capacious,  easy  of  access,  and  perfectly 
secure.  The  favourable  situation  of  this  place,  in  regard  to  the 
sea,  and  its  connection  with  the  interior  by  means  of  the  Dismal 
Swamp  canal  and  the  Portsmouth  and  Roanoke  rail-road,  have 
made  it  the  chief  commercial  depot  of  Virginia.  The  principal 
public  buildings  are  eight  churches,  a  marine  hospital,  a  theatre, 
lyceum,  &c.  Population,  10,000.  At  Gosport,  in  Portsmouth, 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  is  one  of  the  most  important 
navy-yards  of  the  United  States,  containing  a  magnificent  dry- 
dock,  of  hewn  granite.     Population  of  Portsmouth,  2000. 

Petersburg,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Appomattox  river,  is  a 
handsome  and  flourishing  town,  with  10,000  inhabitants,  com- 
bining an  active  trade  in  cotton,  flour,  and  tobacco,  with  manu- 
facturing industry.  Vessels  drawing  seven  feet  of  water  come 
up  to  the  town,  but  large  ships  unload  at  City  Point,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river.  The  falls  of  the  Appomattox  furnish  ample  water- 
power,  and  there  are  here  several  cotton-mills,  merchant  flour- 
mills,  a  brass  and  iron  foundery,  tanneries,  cotton-seed  oil-mills, 
&c. 

North-west  from  Richmond,  and  on  the  Rivanna  river,  is 
Charlottesville,  with  about  1000  inhabitants.  It  is  pleasantly 
situated  in  a  charming  valley,  and  derives  its  interest  from  its 


VIRGINIA.  119 

being  the  seat  of  Virginia  University.  The  halls  of  this  highly 
respectable  and  valuable  institution  form  a  fine  collection  of  build- 
ings. Three  miles  from  Charlottesville  is  Monticello,  the  seat  of 
the  late  President  Jefferson.  A  simple  granite  obelisk  over  the 
grave  of  Jefferson  bears  this  inscription,  written  by  himself: 
Thomas  Jefferson,  Author  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence, 
and  Founder  of  the  University  of  Virginia. 

Nearly  west  from  Richmond,  and  120  miles  distant,  is  Lynch- 
burg, situated  on  the  southern  bank  of  James  river,  which  is  here 
bold  and  broken.  It  is  a  neat  and  flourishing  town,  carrying  on 
an  active  trade,  and  containing  some  manufactories.  Lynchburg 
is  one  of  the  largest  tobacco  markets  in  the  United  States,  from 
10,000  to  16,000  hogsheads  having  been  inspected  here  annually 
during  the  last  ten  years.     Population,  5000. 

At  the  junction  of  the  Potomac  and  Shenandoah  rivers,  stands 
the  town  of  Harper's  Ferry,  celebrated  for  the  majestic  scenery 
in  its  vicinity :  it  has  a  population  of  about  2000  inhabitants,  and 
contains  three  churches,  two  academies,  several  large  flour  and 
saw-mills,  an  arsenal  of  the  United  States,  containing  about 
80,000  stands  of  arms,  and  an  armoury  for  the  manufacture  of 
fire-arms. 

A  rail-road  extends  from  this  place  to  Winchester,  one  of  the 
most  flourishing  towns  in  the  state,  with  about  4000  inhabitants. 
It  stands  on  the  site  of  old  Fort  Loudon,  in  the  midst  of  a  very 
rich  and  highly-cultivated  tract,  inhabited  by  an  industrious  and 
thriving  population.  Winchester  is  the  depot  of  the  surrounding 
country,  and  its  trade  and  manufactures  are  extensive. 

Fredericksburg  is  a  flourishing  town  at  the  head  of  navigation 
on  the  Rappahannock  river,  which  admits  vessels  of  140  tons  up 
to  the  town.  Its  situation  makes  it  the  depot  of  a  well-cultivated 
■tract,  and  its  trade  is  considerable.  Tobacco,  wheat,  flour, 
maize,  gold,  &c,  are  the  principal  articles  of  exportation.  Popu- 
lation, 4000. 

In  Westmoreland  county  on  the  Potomac,  is  shown  the  spot 
where  Washington  was  born ;  the  house,  which  stood  on  Pope's 
creek,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  river,  on  a  plantation  called 
Wakefield,  is  now  in  ruins.  A  simple  stone,  with  the  inscription, 
Here,  on  the  Wth  of  February,  1732,  George  Washington  was 
born,  designates  the  consecrated  spot. 

Further  up  the  river,  and  eight  miles  below  Alexandria,  is 
Mount  Vernon,  the  seat  and  the  tomb  of  that  great  man.  The 
mansion  house  is  a  simple  wooden  building,  two  stories  high, 
with  a  plain  portico,  extending  the  whole  length,  and  command- 
ing a  view  of  the  river ;  here  repose  his  mortal  remains,  which 

M*  137 


120  NORTH    AMERICA. 

have  recently  been  deposited  within  a  beautiful  sarcophagus,  the 
offering  of  private  munificence. 

In  the  western  part  of  the  state  is  the  city  of  Wheeling,  sur- 
rounded by  rich  coal-beds  and  a  highly  fertile  country ;  and, 
standing  at  the  head  of  steam-boat  navigation  on  the  Ohio  during 
the  season  of  low  water,  is  one  of  the  most  flourishing  trading 
towns  in  the  country.  The  population  increased  from  1567  in 
1820,  to  5222  in  1830,  and  is  at  present  about  11,000.  Iron- 
founderies,  steam-engine  factories,  cotton  and  woollen-mills,  glass- 
houses and  cut-glass  works,  an  extensive  rolling  and  slitting-mill 
and  nail-factory,  steam  flour-mills,  paper-mills  ;  copperas,  white- 
lead,  and  sheet-lead  manufactories  ;  tobacco-manufactories,  tan- 
neries, smitheries,  &c,  are  among  the  manufacturing  establish- 
ments of  this  place. 


STATE  OF  NORTH  CAROLINA. 

North  Carolina  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Virginia,  east 
by  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  south  by  South  Carolina,  and  west  by 
Tennessee.  Length  362  miles,  and  breadth  121  miles ;  area, 
50,000  square  miles.  The  country,  for  more  than  60  miles  from 
the  coast,  is  a  low  plain,  with  many  swamps  and  inlets  from  the 
sea.  The  greater  portion  of  this  district,  except  along  the  water- 
courses, is  a  vast  forest,  of  evergreens. 

The  rich  lands  near  the  swamps  and  rivers  are  insalubrious. 
Having  passed  this  monotonous  region,  we  emerge  to  the  pleasant 
and  mild  parts  of  the  state,  at  the  base  of  the  Alleghanies,  from 
whose  summits  the  eye  traverses  an  immense  extent  of  beautiful 
country  to  the  west. 

In  the  western  part  of  the  state,  the  Blue  Ridge,  which  forms 
the  separating  line  between  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  and  the 
Mississippi,  attains  an  elevation  of  about  5500  feet.  The  west- 
ern boundary  of  the  state  is  formed  by  the  prolongation  of  the 
same  ridge  ;  its  different  parts  are  known  by  various  local  names, 
one  of  which,  the  Black  Mountain,  has  been  recently  ascertained 
to  be  the  most  lofty  in  the  United  States,  east  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains;  its  height  is  6476  feet,  or  48  feet  more  elevated  than 
Mount  Washington,  in  New  Hampshire. 

North  Carolina  abounds  in  considei'able  rivers,  but  enjoys  few 
facilities  for  navigation  in  proportion  to  the  number  and  size  of 
the  streams,  which  are  shallow  or  broken  in  their  course,  or  lose 
themselves  in  lagoons  difficult  of  access,  or  are  obstructed  by 
bars.     The  Chowan  and  Roanoke  flow  into  Albemarle  Sound, 

138 


SOUTHERN  STATES. 


Great  Falls  of  the  Potomac. 

These  Falls  are  about  twelve  miles  above  Washington  City.     The  descent  of  the  water  is 
seventy-six  feet. 


Capitol  at  Richmond. 


Natural  Bridge  in  Virginia. 

This  sublime  work  of  nature  is  fifteen  miles  south  of  Lexington  ;  it  extends  across  a  chasm 
that  is  more  than  two  hundred  feet  deep.  The  bridge  is  sixty  feet  wide  in  the  middle,  and 
affords  a  firm  and  safe  passage. 

139 


NORTH   AMERICA. 


Washington's  Tomb,  at  Mount  Vernon,  eight  miles  from  Alexandria. 


Gold  Mining. 


NORTH  CAROLINA.  121 

and  the  Tar  river  and  Neuse  into  Pamlico  Sound.  The  Cape 
Fear  river  is  the  principal  stream,  which  has  its  whole  course 
within  the  state.  The  Waccamaw,  the  Lumber,  and  Yadkin, 
which  take  the  names  of  the  Little  and  Great  Pedee,  and  the 
Catawba,  which  rises  in  the  Blue  Ridge,  all  flow  into  South 
Carolina;  while  the  French -Broad,  Little  Tennessee,  Hiwassee, 
and  New  river,  descend  in  an  opposite  direction  from  the  same 
mountain. 

The  pine  forests  of  North  Carolina,  which  cover  nearly  the 
whole  of  the  eastern  part  of  the  state,  yield  not  only  much  lum- 
ber for  exportation,  but  also  nearly  all  the  resinous  matter  used 
in  ship-building  in  this  country.  The  products  are  turpentine, 
spirits  of  turpentine,  rosin,  tar,  and  pitch. 

Among  the  mineral  productions,  the  most  important  appear  to 
be  gold  and  iron.  The  gold  region  of  North  Carolina  embraces 
the  section  on  both  sides  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  and  extends  to  the 
east  of  the  Yadkin.  In  almost  any  part  of  this  district  gold  may 
be  found  in  greater  or  less  abundance  mixed  with  the  soil.  It 
exists  in  grains  or  masses  from  almost  imperceptible  particles,  to 
pieces  of  one  or  two  pounds  weight;  one -of  the  largest  lumps 
ever  found  was  dug  up  in  Cabarrus  county — it  was  worth  be- 
tween 7000  and  8000  dollars.  Lumps  from  the  value  of  100 
or  200  to  1000  dollars,  are  not  uncommon.  — 

The  great  diversity  of  climate  between  the  eastern  lowlands 
and  the  western  high  country  produces  a  corresponding  diversity 
in  the  agricultural  productions  of  the  two  sections ;  while  the 
former  yields  cotton,  rice,  and  indigo,  the  more  northern  grains 
and  fruits  thrive  in  the  latter,  which  yields  wheat,  Indian-corn, 
tobacco,  and  hemp.  The  cotton  crop  of  North  Carolina  is  about 
30,000  bales. 

Manufactures  can  hardly  be  said  to  exist,  except  in  the  shape 
of  household  industry ;  and  the  dangers  of  the  coast,  together 
with  the  want  of  good  harbours,  cause  the  trade  of  North  Caro- 
lina to  pass  chiefly  through  Virginia,  South  Carolina,  Georgia, 
and  Tennessee. 

The  works  of  internal  improvement  are  yet  few  in  number  in 
North  Carolina.  The  Dismal  Swamp  canal  is  partly,  and  its 
branch,  the  North-west  canal,  wholly,  in  this  state. 

Of  rail-roads,  the  Portsmouth  and  Roanoke,  the  Petersburg 
and  Roanoke,  and  Greensville  rail-roads,  though  partly  in 
North  Carolina,  are  in  reality  Virginia  improvements.  Two 
considerable  works  of  that  kind  have  been  lately  finished  here : 
these  are  the  Wilmington  and  Raleigh,  and  the  Gaston  and 
Raleigh  rail-roads  ;  the  first  extends  from  Weldon,  on  the  Roanoke, 
to  Wilmington,  101  miles;  and  the  other  from  Gaston,  on  the 
11  »« 


122  NORTH   AMERICA. 

same  river,  to  the  capital,  85  miles.     They  were  opened  to  the 
public  in  March,  1840. 

The  University  of  North  Carolina,  at  Chapel  Hill,  about  30 
miles  from  Raleigh,  is  the  principal  educational  institution  in  the 
state ;  there  is  a  pretty  large  number  of  academies,  but  no  sys- 
tem of  general  education  has  been  adopted.  The  Methodists  and 
Baptists  are  the  most  numerous  religious  sects,  and  there  are  also 
a  good  many  Presbyterians  and  Episcopalians,  with  some  Luther- 
ans, Moravians,  Friends,  and  Roman  Catholics. 

POPULATION  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS. 
In  1701,  5,000;  in  1749,  45,000;  in  1763,  95,000. 

INCREASE.  ]  SLAVES.  INCREASE. 

In  1790 393,951 100,571 

1800 478,103    From  1790  to  1800 84,152  133,296  33,275 

1810 555,500  1800tol810 77,397  168,824  35,528 

1820 638,829  1810  to  1820 83,329  205,017  36,193 

1S30 737,987  1820  to  1830 98,162  245,601  40,584 

1840 753,419  1830  to  1840 15,4321245,817  216 

Of  the  foregoing  population  of  1840,  there  were,  white  males, 
240,047  ;  white  females,  244,823 ;  deaf  and  dumb,  354  ;  blind, 
390.  Total,  whites,  484,870.  Free  coloured  persons,  22,732  ; 
slaves,  245,817. 

Raleigh,  the  capital  of  the  state,  not  far  from  the  west  bank 
of  the  Neuse,  is  a  thriving  town,  with  2000  inhabitants.  A  fine 
state-house  of  granite  is  now  erected  here,  in  place  of  the  one 
destroyed  by  fire  in  1831,  when  Canova's  statue  of  Washington 
was  unfortunately  ruined.  Fayetteville  is  a  busy  and  flourishing 
town,  at  the  head  of  boat  navigation  on  the  Cape  Fear  river,  with 
3000  inhabitants.  It  contains  an  United  States'  armoury,  and 
has  recently  engaged  with  activity  in  manufacturing  cotton  goods. 
Salem,  Salisbury,  and  Charlotte,  are  small  towns  in  this  section. 
The  last  mentioned  has  of  late  rapidly  increased  in  population 
and  importance,  on  account  of  proximity  to  the  gold  mines,  and 
has  at  present  2000  inhabitants.  A  mint  for  the  coinage  of  gold 
has  been  erected  here. 

Beaufort,  the  only  port  of  North  Carolina  directly  upon  the 
sea,  admits  vessels  drawing  12  feet  of  water,  and  the  harbour  is 
safe  and  commodious  ;  but  the  town  is  inconsiderable.  Wilming- 
ton, 30  miles  from  the  sea,  on  Cape  Fear  river,  is  the  most  im- 
portant commercial  town  of  the  state,  and  it  carries  on  a  con- 
siderable trade  with  the  West  Indies.  The  population  in  1840, 
4268.  Newbern,  on  the  south  bank  of  the  river  Neuse,  50  miles 
from  Pamlico  Sound,  is  a  place  of  some  commerce,  although 
large  vessels  cannot  tome  up  to  the  town,  and  the  navigation  is 


SOUTH   CAROLINA.  123 

tedious  and  difficult  for  smaller  craft.  Newbern  is  pleasantly- 
situated  and  well  built,  and,  with  a  population  of  4000  souls,  is 
the  principal  town  in  the  state.  Washington  and  Tarboro'  on 
the  Pamlico  river,  Plymouth  and  Halifax  on  the  Roanoke,  Eden- 
ton  on  the  Chowan,  and  Elizabeth  on  the  Pasquotank,  are  small 
trading  towns. 


STATE  OF  SOUTH  CAROLINA. 

The  State  of  South  Carolina  is  bounded  on  the  north  and 
north-east  by  North  Carolina,  south-east  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean, 
and  south-west  by  Georgia,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the 
Savannah  river:  it  is  in  length  188  miles,  by  160  in  breadth,  the 
area  being  about  33,000  square  miles. 

The  rivers  of  South  Carolina  afford  some  considerable  navi- 
gable facilities  for  small  river  craft ;  but  in  the  lower  part  of  their 
course  they  are  shallow,  and  obstructed  by  bars.  The  principal 
are  the  Waccamaw,  Pedee,  Black  river,  Santee,  Stono,  Edisto, 
Combahee,  Coosaw,  Broad,  and  Savannah. 

The  sea-coast  is  bordered  with  a  fine  chain  of  islands,  between 
which  and  the  shore  there  is  a  very  convenient  navigation.  The 
main  land  is  by  nature  divided  into  the  lower  and  upper  country. 
The  low  country  extends  80  or  100  miles  from  the  coast,  and  is 
covered  with  extensive  forests  of  pitch-pine,  called  pine  barrens, 
interspersed  with  swamps  and  marshes  of  a  rich  soil :  beyond 
this  is  the  sand-hill  region,  60  miles  in  width,  the  sterile  hills  of 
which  have  been  compared  to  the  arrested  waves  of  the  sea  in  a 
storm. 

To  this  distance  the  broad  extent  of  country  is  denominated 
the  lower  country ;  beyond  it  we  approach  the  ridge  or  upper 
country,  the  Atlantic  ascent  of  which  is  precipitous.  From  the 
summit  stretches  a  fine  belt  of  table-land,  fertile  and  well  culti- 
vated, watered  by  rivers,'  and  irrigated  by  smaller  streams, 
extending  from  the  Savannah  to  Broad  river.  The  country 
beyond  the  ridge  resembles  in  its  scenery  the  most  interesting  of 
the  northern  states.  A  number  of  mountains  of  striking  forms, 
here  swell  with  their  peaks  to  a  very  considerable  elevation. 
Table  Mountain  is  the  most  conspicuous ;  its  summit  is  supposed 
to  be  4000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

The  low  country  is  infested  with  many  of  the  diseases  which 
spring  from  a  warm,  moist,  and  unelastic  atmosphere.  Of  these, 
the  most  frequent  are  fevers,  from  which  the  inhabitants  suffer 
more  than  from  any,  or  perhaps  from  all  other  diseases  together. 


124  NORTH   AMERICA. 

The  districts  of  the  upper  country  enjoy  as  salubrious  a  climate 
as  any  part  of  the  United  States. 

The  staple  commodities  of  this  state  are  cotton  and  rice,  of 
which  great  quantities  are  annually  exported.  The  cotton  crop 
of  South  Carolina  is  about  66  millions  of  pounds,  of  which  a  part 
is  the  much-prized  long  staple,  or  sea-island  kind.  Rice,  first 
introduced  in  1693,  is  raised  only  in  the  low  country,  where  the 
immense  swamps  in  which  it  is  grown  may  be  easily  irrigated, 
by  means  of  the  rise  of  the  tide  in  the  rivers.  The  rice  exported 
from  the  United  States,  chiefly  the  produce  of  South  Carolina, 
varies  from  120,000  to  175,000  tierces,  of  the  value  of  from 
2,000,000  to  nearly  3,000,000  dollars. 

Indigo  was  for  some  time  one  of  the  staples  of  this  state ;  its 
cultivation  was  introduced  in  the  middle  of  the  last  century,  and 
at  the  breaking  out  of  the  revolutionary  war,  about  1,000,000 
pounds  were  exported  annually  ;  but  toward  the  close  of  the  cen- 
tury the  price  was  so  much  lowered  by  large  importations  from 
the  East  Indies  into  England,  that  it  gave  way  to  cotton,  which 
is  raised  on  the  same  lands. 

There  are  no  manufactures  of  any  importance  in  South  Caro- 
lina, but  the  commerce  of  the  state  is  necessarily  extensive ;  it 
consists  in  the  exports  of  her  own  raw  produce,  including  rice, 
cotton,  tar,  pitch,  turpentine,  lumber,  and  of  large  quantities  of 
the  productions  of  Georgia  and  North  Carolina ;  and  in  the 
import  of  manufactured  articles,  wines,  tropical  fruits,  &c,  for 
home  consumption. 

The  region  in  which  gold  is  found  extends  through  this  state. 
Although  the  mines  are  abundant,  the  diggings  have  been  less 
numerous  than  in  North  Carolina.  Various  ochres,  used  in 
painting,  are  found  near  Yorkville.  Marble,  limestone,  iron  and 
lead  ore,  potters'  clay,  fullers'  earth,  nitrous  earth,  talc,  and  most 
of  the  useful  fossils,  are  common. 

Free  schools  for  poor  children  have  been  established  through- 
out the  state;  and,  in  the  beginning  of  1835,  8475  children  were 
instructed,  at  a  charge  of  37,000  dollars.  There  is  a  consider- 
able number  of  useful  and  respectable  academies  ;  the  Charleston 
college  in  Charleston,  and  the  college  of  South  Carolina  at  Co- 
lumbia, are  valuable  institutions ;  the  latter  has  a  library  of 
10,000  volumes,  and  has  been  liberally  endowed  by  the  state. 

There  are  several  medical  schools  in  Charleston,  a  Presbyte- 
rian theological  seminary  at  Columbia,  a  Lutheran  theological 
seminary  at  Lexington,  and  a  Baptist  theological  seminary  at 
the  High  Hills.  The  prevailing  religious  sects  are  Baptists, 
Methodists,  and  Presbyterians ;  there  are  also  many  Episcopa- 
lians and  Lutherans,  and  some  Roman  Catholics. 


SOUTH   CAROLINA. 


125 


Several  useful  canals  have  been  constructed  in  this  state,  but 
none  of  them  is  of  great  extent ;  the  Santee  canal  extends  from 
the  head  of  sloop  navigation  on  Cooper's  river,  34  miles  from 
Charleston,  to  the  river  Santee,  a  distance  of  22  miles,  and  forms 
the  channel  to  the  sea  for  large  quantities  of  the  produce  of  the 
upper  country.  The  Charleston  and  Augusta  rail-road,  extend- 
ing from  the  former  city  to  Hamburg  on  the  Savannah,  opposite 
Augusta,  135  miles  in  length,  is  the  longest  work  of  the  kind  yet 
constructed.  Another  great  work  is  now  commenced  and  ad- 
vancing with  great  rapidity.  This  is  the  Charleston  and  Cincin- 
nati rail-road,  which  will  pass  through  Columbia,  thence  into 
North  Carolina,  thence  to  Knoxville,  Tennessee,  whence  it  will 
be  continued  through  Lexington  to  the  Ohio  river  ;  the  estimated 
cost  is  10,000,000  dollars;  whole  distance,  600  miles. 

POPULATION  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS. 

In  1701,  7000;  in  1749,  30,000 ;  in  1750,  64,000;  in  1765,  40,000  whites, 
and  90,000  coloured. 

INCREASE. 

In  1790 249,073 


1800 345,590  From  1790  to  1800. . . .  96,518 

1810 415,115     1800  to  1810....  69,524 

1820 502,741     1810  to  1820. .. .  86,626 

1830 581,185     1820  to  1830....  78,344 

1840 594,398     1830  to  1840. .. .  13,213 


SLAVES. 

107,094 
146,151 
196,365 
258,475 
315,365 
327,038 


39,057 
50,214 
62,110 
56,890 
11,673 


Of  the  above  population  of  1840,  there  were,  white  males, 
130,496;  white  females,  128,588;  deaf  and  dumb,  218;  blind, 
289.  Total,  whites,  259,084.  Free  coloured  persons,  8,276 ; 
slaves,  327,038. 

It  will  be  perceived  by  the  above  enumeration,  that,  taking 
into  view  the  whole  state  of  South  Carolina,  the  black  population 
is  considerably  more  numerous  than  that  of  the  whites ;  and  as 
they  are  unequally  distributed,  the  numerical  superiority  of  the 
former  is  still  greater  in  the  low  country,  where  they  are  to  the 
whites  as  three  to  one :  in  the  hilly  country,  the  whites  are 
rather  the  most  numerous,  and  in  the  western  part  of  the  state 
there  are  nearly  three  whites  to  one  black. 

Charleston,  the  metropolis  of  South  Carolina,  and  the  only 
considerable  city  in  the  Atlantic  states  south  of  the  Potomac, 
stands  on  a  point  of  land  between  the  Ashley  and  Cooper  rivers, 
six  miles  from  the  ocean.  It  is  in  general  well  built.  Among 
the  public  buildings  are  19  churches,  the  city  hall,  exchange,  two 
arsenals,  theatre,  college  halls,  alms-house,  orphan  asylum,  &c. ; 
the  city  library  contains  about  15,000  volumes. 

The  city  is  healthier  than  the  surrounding  country,  and  the 

1 1  *  N  145 


126  NORTH    AMERICA. 

planters  from  the  low  country,  and  many  opulent  West  Indians, 
spend  the  summer  here.  Its  commerce  is  extensive,  com- 
prising nearly  the  whole  of  that  of  the  state.  The  population 
increased  from  18,711  in  1800,  to  30,289  in  1830,  of  which 
number  12,928  were  whites ;  including  the  Neck,  which  is 
adorned  with  numerous  plantations  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation, 
the  population  in  1840  amounted  to  29,250. 

Charleston  suffered  severely  from  an  extensive  fire  which  took 
place  April  27th,  1838,  when  1158  buildings  of  various  kinds 
and  much  property  was  destroyed ; — total  amount,  near  4,000,000 
dollars.  A  number  of  persons  also  lost  their  lives.  The  approach 
to  the  city  is  defended  by  Fort  Moultrie,  on  Sullivan's  Island,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  harbour,  and  by  Castle  Pinckney  opposite  the 
extreme  point  of  the  city  within. 

Columbia,  the  capital  of  the  state,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the 
Congaree,  below  the  junction  of  the  Saluda  and  Broad  rivers. 
It  is  regularly  laid  out  with  very  wide  streets,  and  is  a  neatly 
built  town,  with  4000  inhabitants.  It  contains  a  handsome  state- 
house,  a  lunatic  asylum,  the  halls  of  South  Carolina  college,  and 
several  churches.  Camden  is  a  place  of  some  trade,  situated  on 
a  rising  ground  on  the  Wateree :  in  its  neighbourhood  two  im- 
portant battles  were  fought  during  the  revolutionary  war. 

Georgetown,  to  the  north  on  Winyaw  Bay,  being  the  dep6t  of 
an  extensive  and  well-cultivated  district,  has  considerable  trade, 
but  is  not  accessible  to  vessels  drawing  more  than  11  feet  of 
water.  It  is,  however,  unhealthy,  and  during  the  autumn  many 
of  the  inhabitants  resort  to  North  Island  at  the  mouth  of  the  bay. 
Cheraw  is  a  small  trading  town  on  the  Pedee,  near  the  North 
Carolina  line. 

Orangeburg,  Hamburg,  Yorkville,  and  Greenville,  are  the 
chief  towns  in  the  interior  of  the  state.  Hamburg  derives  its 
importance  from  its  being  the  inland  terminus  of  the  rail-road 
from  Charleston  to  the  Savannah  river. 


STATE  OF  GEORGIA. 

Georgia  is  bounded  north  by  Tennessee  and  North  Carolina, 
north-east  by  South  Carolina,  and  south-east  by  the  Atlantic 
Ocean,  south  by  Florida,  and  west  by  Alabama.  Length,  300 
miles ;  breadth,  200  ;  area,  62,000  square  miles.  The  principal 
rivers  of  Georgia  are  the  Savannah,  (which  forms  the  boundary 
between  it  and  South  Carolina,)  Alatamaha,  Ogeechee,  Satilla, 
Ockmulgee,  Oconee,  St.  Mary's,  Flint,  Chattahoochee,  Talla- 
poosa, and  Coosa.     The  coast  of  Georgia,  for  four  or  five  miles 


GEORGIA.  127 

inland,  is  a  salt  marsh,  mostly  uninhabited.  In  front  of  this, 
towards  the  sea,  there  is  a  chain  of  islands  of  a  grey,  rich  soil, 
yielding  on  cultivation  the  finest  quality  of  sea-island  cotton. 
The  principal  are  Wassaw,  Ossabaw,  St.  Catherine,  Sapelo,  St. 
Simon's,  Jekyl,  and  Cumberland.  Beyond  the  swamps  which 
line  the  coast,  commences  that  extensive  range  of  pine-barrens 
closely  resembling  those  of  South  Carolina  ;  above  this  range  the 
country  begins  to  be  pleasantly  diversified  by  gentle  undulations. 
This  region  is  bounded  on  the  west  by  the  Blue  Ridge,  which 
here  swells  into  elevations  1500  feet  in  height,  which  thence 
subside,  and  are  lost  in  the  sea.  Beyond  the  mountains  is  an 
extensive  and  rich  table-country,  with  a  black  soil  of  great  fer- 

There  are  districts  in  this  state  that  approach  nearer  to  tropi- 
cal temperature  than  any  part  of  South  Carolina,  and  better 
adapted  to  the  sugar-cane,  olive,  and  sweet  orange.  The  hilly 
and  western  parts  are  as  healthy  as  any  in  America.  As  an 
average  of  the  temperature,  winter  may  be  said  to  commence  in 
the  middle  of  December,  and  terminate  in  the  middle  of  February. 
The  climate  of  the  low  country  compares  very  nearly  with  that 
of  Louisiana. 

The  mineral  resources  of  Georgia  are  very  imperfectly  known ; 
copper  and  iron  have  been  found,  but  the  most  valuable  mineral 
production,  hitherto,  has  been  gold.  Although  first  found  here 
but  a  few  years  ago,  a  large  quantity  has  already  been  procured, 
chiefly  from  deposits,  and  scarcely  any  attempts  have  been  made 
to  carry  on  systematic  mining  operations.  The  gold  occurs  in 
the  northern  part  of  the  state,  on  both  sides  of  Chattahoochee  as 
far  north  as  the  Blue  Ridge,  and  to  a  considerable,  but  not  well- 
ascertained  distance  on  the  south. 

The  great  agricultural  staples  of  Georgia  are  cotton  and  rice; 
the  cotton  crop  of  the  year  1835  was  estimated  at  300,000  bales; 
the  export  of  rice  for  the  same  year  amounted  to  about  25,000 
casks.  The  other  exports  are  tar,  pitch,  turpentine,  and  lumber 
the  products  of  the  pine  forests. 

Georgia  has  applied  herself  with  great  energy  to  improving 
her  means  of  communication.  The  following  works  are  now  in 
progress: — 1.  The  Central  rail-road,  from  Savannah  to  Macon, 
200  miles  in  length;  2.  The  Monroe  rail-road,  from  Macon  to 
Forsyth,  25  miles ;  3.  Western  and  Atlantic  rail-road,  from  a 
point  in  De  Kalb  county,  eight  miles  east  of  the  Chattahoochee 
river,  to  Ross's  Landing  on  the  Tennessee  river ;  4.  The  Georgia 
rail-road,  from  Augusta  through  Madison  to  Decatur,  160  miles. 
It  is  contemplated  also  to  construct  a  rail-road  from  Macon  to 
Columbus,  and  thence  to  West  Point  in  Troup  county,  on  the 


128  NORTH    AMERICA. 

Chattahoochee  river ;  and  one  to  connect  the  Ockmulgee  and 
Flint  rivers.  The  Brunswick  canal  extends  from  tide-water  on 
the  Alatamaha,  to  the  town  of  Brunswick,  a  distance  of  12  miles. 
The  state  has  an  academic  fund,  the  proceeds  of  which  are 
distributed  annually  among  the  academies ;  the  sum  thus  divided 
in  1834  was  18,710  dollars,  and  there  is  a  considerable  number 
of  respectable  academies.  There  is  also  a  poor  school  fund,  the 
income  of  which  is  divided  among  the  counties,  according  to  their 
respective  population,  but  no  general  system  of  common  educa- 
tion has  been  established  :  18,078  dollars  were  distributed  for  the 
instruction  of  the  poor  in  1834.  There  is  a  college  at  Athens, 
styled  the  University  of  Georgia.  The  Baptists  and  Methodists 
are  numerous,  and  the  Episcopalians,  Presbyterians,  and  Chris- 
tians, number  many  adherents.  There  are  also  some  Roman 
Catholics,  Friends,  Lutherans,  &c. 

POPULATION  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS. 


n  1749.. 

.      6,000 

INCREASE. 

SLAVES. 

INCREASE 

1790.. 

.    82,548 

29.S64 
59,699 

1800.. 

.  162,686 

From  1790  to  1800.... 

.    80,138 

30,435 

1810.. 

. .  252,433 

1800  to  1810.... 

.    89,747 

105,218 

45,519 

1820.. 

. .  348,989 

1810  to  1820.... 

.    88,456 

149,656 

44,438 

1830.. 

. .  516,823 

1820  to  1830.... 

.  167,834 

217,470 

67,814 

1840.. 

. .  691,392 

1830  to  1840.... 

.  174,569 

280,944 

63,474 

Of  the  above  population  of  1840,  there  were,  white  males, 
210,534;  white  females,  197,161  ;  deaf  and  dumb,  257 ;  blind, 
287.  Total  whites,  407,695.  Free  coloured  persons,  2753  ; 
slaves,  280,944. 

The  city  of  Savannah  is  built  on  the  southern  side  of  the  river 
of  the  same  name,  on  a  high  bank,  rising  about  50  feet  above  the 
water,  from  which  it  makes  a  fine  appearance.  In  1820  it  suf- 
fered so  much  from  a  terrible  fire,  that  its  prosperity  received  a 
temporary  check  ;  but  it  has  recovered  from  this  shock,  and  is  at 
present  one  of  the  most  flourishing  cities  in  the  southern  states, 
its  population  having  increased  to  12,000. 

Savannah  is  the  chief  commercial  depot  in  the  state,  and  most 
of  the  cotton  and  rice,  with  large  quantities  of  the  other  articles 
of  exportation,  pass  through  this  port.  The  exports  amount  to 
14,000,000  dollars  :  20  steam-boats  of  a  large  class,  and  50  steam 
tow-boats  are  employed  on  the  river.  Among  the  public  build- 
ings are  10  churches,  an  exchange, city-hall,  hospital,  theatre,  &c. 

The  city  of  Augusta,  the  great  interior  emporium  of  the  state, 
stands  on  the  Savannah  river,  at  the  head  of  steam-boat  naviga- 
tion. It  is  handsomely  built,  and  contains  a  city-hall,  seven 
churches,  an  hospital,  arsenal,  theatre,  &c. ;  a  bridge  across  the 
Savannah  river,  1200  feet  loner,  connects  it  with  Hamburg.     The 


FLORIDA.  129 

population  amounted  in  1830  to  6695,  but  has  increased  to  8000. 
Augusta  is  the  depot  of  an  extensive  tract  of  productive  and 
populous  country,  and  is  connected  with  the  sea  by  the  Charles- 
ton and  Hamburg  rail-road,  and  the  Savannah  river. 

Milledgeville,  the  capital  of  the  state,  is  pleasantly  situated  on 
the  Oconee  river,  at  the  head  of  steam-boat  navigation,  and  is  a 
place  of  some  trade  ;  the  population  exceeds  2000.  It  contains  a 
state-house,  the  penitentiary,  on  the  Auburn  plan,  &c.  Athens, 
a  thriving  little  town  above  Milledgeville,  is  the  seat  of  the  Uni- 
versity of  Georgia. 

Macon,  on  the  Ocmulgee  river,  consisted  in  1823  of  a  single 
cabin ;  in  1830  it  had  a  population  of  2600  souls,  and  at  present 
the  number  of  inhabitants  is  4000.  Its  trade  is  extensive  and 
growing,  and  there  is  a  great  number  of  saw  and  grist-mills  in 
the  vicinity.  Great  quantities  of  cotton  are  shipped  from  this 
place,  and  several  steam-boats,  beside  numerous  tow-boats  and 
pole-boats,  are  employed  on  the  Ocmulgee. 

Columbus  is  situated  on  the  Chattahoochee  river,  just  below  the 
falls,  and  300  miles  from  the  sea.  The  town  was  first  laid  out  in 
1828,  when  the  site  was  yet  covered  with  the  native  forest,  and 
now  contains  5000  inhabitants,  with  several  churches,  news- 
papers, &c.  Many  thousand  bales  of  cotton  are  shipped  every 
year  from  this  place,  and  numerous  steam-boats  are  employed  on 
the  Chattahoochee.  Dahlonega,  in  the  northern  part  of  the  state, 
between  the  Chestatee  and  Etowa,  is  the  seat  of  one  of  the  offices 
of  the  United  States'  Mint. 

Darien  is  a  neat  and  thriving  little  town,  with  an  active  trade 
in  cotton,  and  in  the  lumber  which  is  brought  down  the  river  in 
large  quantities.  Brunswick,  with  a  fine  spacious  harbour,  is 
situated  on  Turtle  river,  a  few  miles  from  the  sea.  A  rail-road 
from  this  place  to  St.  Mark's,  on  Apalachee  bay,  is  contemplated. 
St.  Mary's,  a  small  town  on  the  river  of  the  same  name,  just 
above  its  entrance  into  Cumberland  sound,  derives  importance 
from  its  deep  and  commodious  harbour. 


FLORIDA  TERRITORY. 

Florida  is  bounded  north  by  Alabama  and  Georgia,  south  and 
west  by  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  east  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  Its 
mean  length,  from  north  to  south,  is  380  miles,  and  the  mean 
breadth  150  ;  the  area  being  55,000  square  miles. 

The  surface  of  Florida  is  in  general  level,  and  not  much  ele- 
vated above  the  sea.     It  is  intersected  by  numerous  ponds,  lakes, 


130  NORTH   AMERICA. 

and  rivers,  of  which  the  principal  are,  the  St.  John's,  Apalachi- 
cola,  Suwanee,  Ocklockony,  Choctawhatchie,  Escambia,  and 
Yellow-Water  rivers.  The  southern  part  of  the  peninsula  is  a 
mere  marsh,  and  terminates  at  Cape  Sable  in  heaps  of  sharp 
rocks,  interspersed  with  a  scattered  growth  of  shrubby  pines. 

The  gulf  stream  setting  along  the  coast  has  here  worn  away 
the  land,  forming  those  islands,  keys,  and  rocks,  known  by  the 
general  name  of  the  Reefs,  and  by  the  Spaniards  called  cayos, 
between  which  and  the  main  land  is  a  navigable  channel.  These 
islands  contain  some  settlements  and  many  good  harbours.  One 
of  the  most  important  is  Key  West,  or  Thompson's  Island,  six 
miles  long,  and  two  in  breadth,  on  which  is  the  town  of  Key 
West,  the  most  southern  in  the  United  States  :  it  is  a  naval  station, 
and  the  seat  of  an  admiralty  court :  the  harbour  is  good,  well 
sheltered,  and  commodious,  and  of  sufficient  depth  of  water  to 
admit  the  largest  vessels. 

Live-oak  timber,  one  of  the  most  valuable  products  of  Florida, 
is  cut  and  exported  to  a  considerable  amount ;  also  cedar  logs, 
boards,  staves,  hides,  tallow,  and  bees-wax.  The  fig,  pomegra- 
nate, orange,  and  date,  are  among  the  fruits ;  cotton  is  the  chief 
agricultural  staple,  the  annual  crop  being  about,  60,000  bales ; 
the  sugar-cane  is  also  pretty  extensively  cultivated  ;  rice  is  raised 
in  large  quantities ;  and  indigo  formerly  furnished  a  valuable 
article  of  exportation,  but  is  now  only  raised  for  family  use.  But 
Florida  is  on  the  whole  better  suited  for  a  grazing  country;  and 
its  vast  herds  of  cattle,  horses,  swine,  &c,  find  a  boundless  ex- 
tent of  range  in  its  fine  pastures. 

The  climate,  from  October  to  June,  is  generally  salubrious  ;  but 
the  months  of  July,  August,  and  September,  are  extremely  hot 
and  uncomfortable ;  and  during  this  season,  fevers  are  prevalent. 
At  St.  Augustine,  however,  the  climate  is  delightful,  and  this 
place  is  the  resort  of  invalids. 

The  population  of  Florida,  in  1840,  amounted  to  54,477  ;  the 
different  classes  of  which  are  as  follows :  whites,  27,943  ;  free 
coloured,  817  ;  slaves,  25,717. 

Of  the  various  Indian  tribes  that  once  inhabited  Florida,  the 
Seminoles  alone  remain.  They  were  supposed  a  kw  years  ago 
to  amount  to  about  3000  or  4000  in  number.  Some  of  them 
have  removed  to  the  Indian  territory  west  of  the  Mississippi 
river ;  the  residue,  after  several  years  of  tedious  and,  on  their 
part,  barbarous  warfare  with  the  United  States,  are  now  reduced 
to  a  small  number,  and  will  probably  very  soon  be  compelled  to 
relinquish  the  contest,  and  join  their  brethren  in  the  Indian  terri- 
tory. They  inhabit  a  marshy  and  almost  unknown  tract  in  the 
southern  part  of  the  peninsula,  called  the  Everglades. 


ALABAMA.  131 

St.  Augustine  is  the  oldest  town  in  the  United  States.  It  is 
regularly  built,  but  the  streets  are  narrow ;  the  houses  are  gene- 
rally two  stories  high,  surrounded  with  balconies  and  piazzas, 
and  built  of  a  shell-stone,  or  a  concretion  of  shells  and  sand. 
Although  the  country  in  the  vicinity  is  poor,  yet  there  are  fine 
gardens  in  and  around  the  town ;  the  beautiful  orange  groves, 
which  ornamented  the  neighbourhood,  and  were  very  profitable 
to  their  owners,  were  mostly  destroyed  by  the  severe  cold  of  1837. 

Jacksonville,  on  the  St.  John's,  is  a  flourishing  town,  forming 
the  depot  of  the  trade  of  the  surrounding  country ;  it  is  also  a 
considerable  thoroughfare,  and  the  projected  East  Florida  rail- 
road is  to  run  from  this  point  to  St.  Mark's.  St.  Mark's  is  the 
shipping  port  of  a  populous  and  productive  district,  and  is  a 
growing  town,  with  a  good  harbour;  the  entrance  affords  12 
feet  of  water ;  but  up  to  the  town,  eight  miles  from  the  sea,  the 
bay  carries  only  nine  feet.  A  rail-road  connects  St.  Mark's 
with  the  capital,  Tallahassee,  21  miles.  A  work  of  the  same 
kind,  190  miles  in  length,  is  contemplated  from  hence  to  Bruns- 
wick, Georgia. 

Tallahassee  stands  on  an  eminence  in  a  fertile  district,  and 
contains  the  capitol,  several  churches  and  banks,  with  about  2000 
inhabitants.  Apalachicola  is  a  flourishing  little  town,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river  of  the  same  name.  About  50,000  bales  of 
cotton  were  exported  from  Apalachicola  during  the  year  1835. 
St.  Joseph's,  on  the  bay  of  the  same  name,  is  also  a  place  of 
growing  trade.  The  bay  affords  25  to  33  feet  of  water,  and  is 
well  sheltered  from  all  winds.  A  rail-road  from  St.  Joseph's  to 
the  little  lake  Wimico,  connects  the  town  with  the  river  Apala- 
chicola. 

Pensacola,  on  the  bay  of  the  same  name,  is  important  as  a 
naval  station  of  the  United  States ;  it  is  accessible  to  small  ves- 
sels through  Santa  Rosa  Sound,  a  long,  shallow  lagoon,  shel- 
tered by  the  island  of  Santa  Rosa,  which  also  fronts  the  bay 
of  Pensacola,  and  through  the  main  channel  to  ships  of  war,  up 
to  the  navy-yard,  about  six  miles  below  the  town.  The  popula- 
tion of  Pensacola  is  about  2000. 


STATE  OF  ALABAMA. 


The  state  of  Alabama  is  bounded  north  by  Tennessee,  east 
by  Georgia,  south  by  Florida,  and  west  by  the  state  of  Missis- 
sippi. Length  280  miles;  breadth  160  miles;  area  51,770 
square  miles. 

The   principal   rivers   are  the   Alabama,  Tombigby,   Black 


132  NORTH   AMERICA. 

Warrior,  Coosa,  Tallapoosa,  Tennessee,  Chattahoochee,  Perdido, 
and  Cahawba. 

The  southern  part  of  the  country,  which  borders  on  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico  and  West  Florida,  for  the  space  of  50  miles  wide,  is 
low  and  level,  covered  with  pine,  cypress,  &c. ;  in  the  middle  it 
is  hilly,  with  some  tracts  of  open  land ;  the  northern  part  is 
somewhat  broken  and  mountainous,  and  the  country  generally  is 
more  elevated  above  the  sea  than  most  other  parts  of  the  United 
States  at  equal  distance  from  the  ocean.  The  Alleghany  moun- 
tains terminate  in  the  north-east  part  of  the  state. 

Alabama  possesses  great  diversity  of  soil,  climate,  natural, 
vegetable,  and  mineral  productions.  The  sugar-cane  has  been 
found  to  succeed  in  the  extreme  southern,  and  some  tobacco  is 
cultivated  in  the  northern  counties.  Indigo  was  formerly  raised 
in  considerable  quantities ;  rice  also  grows  well  on  the  alluvial 
bottom  near  the  Gulf;  but  cotton,  which  thrives  throughout  the 
state,  is  the  great  agricultural  staple.  The  cotton  crop  at  present 
exceeds  350,000  bales.  Indian-corn,  the  principal  grain,  is  raised 
in  all  parts  of  Alabama. 

There  are  extensive  beds  of  bituminous  coal  and  iron  ore  in 
the  central  part  of  the  state,  both  of  which  are  of  excellent 
quality,  and  several  forges  are  in  operation  on  the  Cahawba. 
Gold  is  found  in  the  northern  section,  and  good  marble  has  been 
obtained  from  the  central  tract ;  but  the  mineral  resources  of 
Alabama  have  never  been  carefully  explored. 

Several  useful  works  of  internal  improvement  have  already 
been  constructed,  or  are  in  active  progress,  in  this  youthful  state. 
The  Tuscumbia  and  Decatur  rail-road  extends  round  the  Muscle 
Shoals  of  the  Tennessee  river,  45  miles.  And  there  is  also  a 
canal,  sixty  feet  wide,  and  six  feet  deep,  surmounting  the  same 
obstruction.  The  Florida  and  Georgia  rail-road,  from  Pensacola 
to  Columbus,  210  miles ;  the  Montgomery  and  Chattahoochee 
rail-road,  from  Montgomery  to  West  Point,  Georgia,  85  miles, 
and  the  Wetumpka  and  Coosa  rail-road,  are  in  progress.  The 
connexion  of  these  works  with  the  valley  of  the  Tennessee  is 
also  contemplated. 

The  growth  of  Alabama  has  been  extremely  rapid,  there  hav- 
ing been  a  constant  tide  of  immigration,  chiefly  of  planters  with 
their  slaves  from  the  Atlantic  states.  The  high  price  of  cotton, 
and  the  extensive  sales  of  Indian  lands,  have  contributed  to  this 
result ;  and  from  the  same  causes,  the  population  will  be  found, 
no  doubt,  to  have  doubled  since  1830. 

The  constitution  enjoins  it  upon  the  general  assembly  to 
encourage  schools  and  the  means  of  education  within  the  state  ; 
and  by  act  of  congress  in  1819,  one  section  of  640  acres  of 'he 


In  1820 127,901 

1827 244,041 


ALABAMA.  133 

public  lands,  in  each  township,  was  reserved  for  the  support  of 
common  schools  in  the  township  ;  two  entire  townships,  or  46,080 
acres,  were  also  granted  to  the  state  for  the  support  of  a  semi- 
nary of  learning,  the  proceeds  of  which  have  been  appropriated 
to  the  endowment  of  the  University  of  Alabama,  in  Tuscaloosa. 
La  Grange  college,  and  Spring  Hill  college,  near  Mobile,  are 
also  useful  institutions,  and  there  are  numerous  academies  in  the 
state.  The  State  University  also  is  in  a  promising  condition. 
The  Methodists,  Baptists,  and  Presbyterians,  are  the  prevailing 
sects,  and  there  are  some  Episcopalians  and  Roman  Catholics. 

POPULATION  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS. 

In  1810,  less  than  10,000 ;  in  1816,  29,683  ;  in  1818,  70,542. 

SLAVES.  !  INCREASE. 
41,879  | 

93,008  ]  51,129 

1830 309,527    From  1820  to  1830. ..  181,626    117,549     24,541 

1839 510,840  1 830  to  1839 . . .  201,313    214,989     97,440 

1840 590,424  1839  to  1840. . .    79,584    253,532     38,543 

Of  the  above  population  of  1840,  there  were,  white  males, 
176,360;  white  females,  158,493;  deaf  and  dumb,  226  ;  blind, 
209.  Total,  whites,  334,853.  Free  coloured  persons,  2039 ; 
slaves,  253,532. 

The  city  of  Mobile  is  a  flourishing  commercial  town,  being  the 
depdt  for  nearly  the  whole  state  of  Alabama  and  part  of  Georgia 
and  Mississippi ;  it  is  built  on  a  dry  and  elevated  spot,  with  spa- 
cious and  handsome  streets,  paved  with  shells.  The  inhabitants 
are  supplied  with  good  water  brought  into  the  city  by  pipes.  In 
October,  1839,  three  destructive  fires  occurred,  by  which  more 
than  500  houses  were  burned,  and  goods  destroyed  to  the  value 
of  more  than  1,500,000  dolllars.  The  annual  export  of  cotton  from 
the  port  is  about  250,000  bales.  The  population  in  1830  was 
3194  ;  but  now  exceeds  13,000. 

Montgomery,  near  the  head  of  the  Alabama,  is  a  busy,  grow- 
ing town,  with  about  2000  inhabitants.  Wetumpka,  on  the 
Coosa,  at  the  head  of  steam-boat  navigation,  was  cut  out  of  the 
forest  in  1832,  and  is  now  a  place  of  considerable  business,  with 
3000  inhabitants.  Gainesville,  on  the  Tombigby  river,  is  a 
thriving  town,  lately  settled. 

Tuscaloosa,  the  capital,  stands  in  a  rich  district,  near  the  cen- 
tre of  the  state,  on  the  Black  Warrior  river,  and,  being  accessible 
to  steam-boats,  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade :  it  contains  the 
state-house,  the  halls  of  the  university,  the  county  buildings,  &c. 
The  population  of  the  town  is  about  2000. 

Florence,  below  Muscle   Shoals,  at  the  head  of  steam-boat 

12  153 


134  NORTH   AMERICA. 

navigation  on  the  Tennessee,  is  a  growing  place  of  about  2000 
inhabitants,  with  a  prosperous  and  increasing  trade.  Tuscumbia 
is  also  a  thriving  town.  Above  the  Shoals,  and  about  ten  miles 
north  of  the  river,  is  Huntsville,  situated  in  a  very  fertile  and 
beautiful  region,  with  about  2500  inhabitants. 


STATE  OF  MISSISSIPPI. 

The  state  of  Mississippi  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Tennessee, 
east  by  Alabama,  south  by  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  Louisiana, 
west  by  Louisiana  and  Arkansas.  It  is  about  300  miles  in  ave- 
rage length,  and  160  in  breadth;  area,  about  48,000  square  miles. 

The  principal  rivers  are  the  Mississippi,  Pearl,  Pascagoula, 
Yazoo,  Big  Black,  Tennessee,  and  the  western  branches  of  the 
Tombigby.  The  Mississippi  forms  the  western  boundary  of  the 
state  for  700  miles  by  the  course  of  the  river. 

The  southern  part  of  the  state,  extending  about  100  miles  north 
from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  is  mostly  a  level  country,  with  occa- 
sional hills  of  moderate  elevation,  and  is  covered  with  forests  of 
the  long-leaved  pine,  interspersed  with  cypress  swamps,  open 
prairies,  and  inundated  marshes.  A  considerable  portion  of  this 
part  is  susceptible  of  cultivation.  The  soil  is  generally  sandy, 
sometimes  gravelly  and  clayey.  It  is  capable  of  producing 
cotton,  corn,  indigo,  sugar,  garden  vegetables,  plums,  cherries, 
peaches,  figs,  sour  oranges,  and  grapes. 

In  proceeding  north,  the  face  of  the  country  becomes  more 
elevated  and  agreeably  diversified ;  and  the  soil  is  exceedingly 
productive,  yielding  abundant  crops  of  cotton,  corn,  wheat,  sweet 
potatoes,  garden  vegetables,  and  fruit.  Nearly  all  the  country 
watered  by  the  Yazoo,  is  described  as  incomparably  fertile  and 
well  watered.  Its  climate,  and  the  value  of  its  productions,  will 
doubtless  cause  it  to  become  an  important  part  of  the  state. 

Tobacco  and  indigo  were  formerly  the  staples  of  Mississippi, 
but  cotton,  at  present,  is  the  chief  production  of  the  state,  and  it 
absorbs  nearly  all  the  industry  of  the  inhabitants,  to  the  exclusion 
even  of  corn  and  cattle.  The  crop  is  about  300,000  bales.  Some 
sugar  is  produced  in  the  southern  strip,  but  the  cane  does  not 
appear  to  thrive. 

Several  works  of  magnitude  have  already  been  undertaken  for 
facilitating  the  transportation  of  the  bulky  staple  of  the  state. 
The  Mississippi  rail-road,  which  is  to  extend  from  Natchez, 
through  Jackson,  to  Canton  in  Madison  county,  a  distance  of 
150  miles,  is  in  progress.     The  Woodville  and  St.  Francisville 


MISSISSIPPI.  135 

rail-road,  from  Woodville  to  the  Mississippi  in  Louisiana,  28 
miles,  is  completed.  The  Port  Gibson  and  Grand  Gulf  rail-road, 
eight  miles  long,  connects  the  former  place  with  the  Mississippi. 
The  Vicksburg  rail-road,  from  that  town  to  Jackson,  54  miles, 
is  also  in  progress.  The  Jackson  and  Brandon  rail-road  is  eight 
miles  in  length. 

A  large  portion  of  Mississippi  was,  until  recently,  in  the  pos- 
session of  the  Choctaws  and  Chickasaws  ;  but  the  greater  part  of 
these  have  removed  to  the  Indian  territory.  The  same  provision 
was  made  by  Congress  for  the  support  of  schools  in  this  state,  as 
was  made  in  Alabama ;  and  the  state  has  also  a  small  literary 
fond,  devoted  to  the  same  purpose.  There  are  in  the  state  seve- 
ral academies  and  four  colleges. 

The  population  of  Mississippi  has  increased  with  astonishing 
rapidity.  In  1810,  the  population  of  the  territory  of  Mississippi, 
which  included  the  present  state  of  that  name  and  Alabama,  was 
40,352  ;  in  1820,  the  state  of  Mississippi  contained  75,448  inha- 
bitants, and  in  1830,  136,621,  of  whom  65,659  were  slaves. 
During  the  last  three  or  four  years  the  emigration  has  been  active 
and  uninterrupted,  and  it  is  estimated  that  the  population  of  the 
state  at  present  is  not  less  than  400,000. 

POPULATION  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS. 


INCREASE. 

In  1820. . . .    75,448 

1830. . . .  136,621     From  1820  to  1830. . . .    61,273 
1840. . . .  375,651  1830  to  1840 ....  239,030 


SLAVES. 

32,814 

65,659 

195,211 


32,845 
129,552 


Of  the  above  population  of  1840,  there  were,  white  males, 
97,256  ;  white  females,  81,818  ;  deaf  and  dumb,  92  ;  blind,  112. 
Total,  whites,  179,074.  Free  coloured  persons,  1366  ;  slaves, 
195,211. 

Natchez,  the  largest  and  most  important  town  in  the  state,  is 
situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  300  miles  above 
New  Orleans.  It  consists  of  two  distinct  parts  :  the  lower  town, 
called  Natchez  under  the  hill,  or  the  landing,  is  built  on  a  dead 
level  on  the  margin  of  the  river,  about  half  a  mile  in  length,  and 
from  100  to  200  yards  in  breadth :  the  upper  town  stands  on  a 
lofty  bank  or  bluff,  rising  abruptly  to  the  height  of  300  feet,  and 
is  the  residence  of  the  better  class  of  citizens.  The  streets  are 
wide,  regularly  disposed,  and  adorned  with  fine  shade  trees,  while 
many  of  the  houses  are  embosomed  in  groves  of  the  orange,  pal- 
metto, and  other  trees,  and  ornamental  shrubs.  Notwithstanding 
its  distance  from  the  sea,  Natchez  carries  on  a  considerable  direct 
trade  with  foreign  countries,  and  large  ships  come  up  to  the 
town.  Its  river  and  inland  trade  is  very  extensive.  The  popu- 
lation in  1830  was  2790,  but  at  present  it  is  4826. 


136  NORTH   AMERICA. 

Vicksburg,  106  miles  above  Natchez,  and  about  12  miles 
beiow  the  mouth  of  the  Yazoo  river,  stands  in  a  picturesque 
situation,  on  the  declivity  of  several  considerable  eminences, 
called  the  Walnut  Hills,  rising  abruptly  from  the  river.  It  is  the 
depot  of  a  large  tract  of  newly-settled  country,  which  a  few  years 
since  was  owned  and  occupied  solely  by  Indians.  It  contains  at 
present  probably  4000  inhabitants.  The  merchants  of  Vicks- 
burg have  commenced  a  direct  intercourse  by  sea  with  the 
Atlantic  ports.  All  the  trade  of  the  Yazoo  country  centres  here. 
The  town  is  upwards  of  500  miles  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  by 
the  Mississippi  river. 

On  the  west  bank  of  Pearl  river  is  Jackson,  the  capital  of  the 
state  :  it  is  finely  situated  in  a  plain  about  half  a  mile  square,  on 
which  stand  the  state-house,  the  penitentiary,  and  some  other 
public  buildings.     It  contains  about  1500  inhabitants. 

Woodville,  in  the  south-western  part  of  the  state,  18  miles  from 
the  Mississippi,  is  a  very  pretty  and  growing  village,  with  1000 
inhabitants.  The  little  village  of  Fort  Adams  on  the  Mississippi, 
is  considered  as  its  port,  but  Woodville  is  now  connected  with  the 
river  at  St.  Francisville  by  a  rail-road. 

Port  Gibson  is  a  flourishing  little  town,  with  1500  inhabitants, 
prettily  situated  in  a  charming  tract  of  country  on  the  Bayou 
Pierre.  The  river  is  navigable  for  steam-boats  to  this  place  in 
time  of  high  water,  and  a  rail-road  connects  it  with  Grand  Gulf, 
its  port  on  the  Mississippi.  The  latter  takes  its  name  from  a  re- 
markable eddy  in  the  river,  and  is  a  thriving  town  with  1500 
inhabitants. 

Grenada,  on  the  Yalo  Busha,  and  Manchester,  or  Yazoo  city, 
on  the  Yazoo,  are  thriving  places,  as  are  also  Aberdeen  and  Co- 
lumbus, on  the  Tombigby ;  the  latter  place  has  a  population  of 
3000,  and  an  extensive  commercial  business  is  transacted  here. 


STATE  OF  LOUISIANA. 


Louisiana  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  states  of  Arkansas 
and  Mississippi ;  on  the  east,  by  the  latter  state ;  on  the  south,  by 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico ;  and  on  the  west  by  the  republic  of  Texas. 
The  33d  degree  of  north  latitude  is  the  northern  boundary,  west. 
of  the  Mississippi  river;  and  the  31st  degree  on  the  east  of  that 
river :  the  Pearl  river  is  its  extreme  eastern  boundary,  and  the 
Sabine  its  western.  It  is  in  length  240  miles,  by  210  in  breadth, 
and  contains  4£  320  square  miles. 

Three-fourths  of  the  state  are  without  an  elevation  that  can  be 


LOUISIANA.  137 

properly  called  a  hill.  The  pine  woods  generally  have  a  surface 
of  a  very  peculiar  character,  rising  into  fine  swells,  with  table 
surfaces  on  the  summit,  and  valleys  intervening  from  30  to  40 
feet  deep.  The  alluvial  soil  is  level,  and  the  swamps,  which  are 
the  only  inundated  alluvions,  are  dead  flats;  The  vast  prairies 
which  constitute  a  large  portion  of  the  surface  of  the  state,  have 
in  a  remarkable  degree  all  the  distinctive  aspects  of  prairies. 

The  Mississippi,  after  having  formed  the  boundary  of  the  state 
for  about  450  miles,  enters  its  limits,  350  miles  from  the  sea  by 
the  course  of  the  river  channel.  Throughout  this  distance  of  800 
miles,  its  western  bank  is  low,  and  flooded  in  high  stages  of  the 
river.  Outlets,  or  bayous,  receive  its  surplus  waters  during  the 
period  of  the  annual  inundation,  which  are  carried  off"  by  them 
to  the  sea :  the  principal  of  these  bayous  are  the  Atchalafaya, 
Plaquemine,  La  Fourche,  &c. 

The  rivers  in  this  state,  in  addition  to  the  Mississippi,  are,  the 
Red  River  ;  the  Washita,  flowing  into  the  Red  River  ;  the  Teche, 
Vermillion,  Mermentau,  and  Calcasiu,  run  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico, 
together  with  the  Pearl,  on  the  east,  and  the  Sabine,  on  the  west. 
The  Red  River  is  the  most  important,  and,  indeed,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  two  or  three  insignificant  streams  on  the  eastern  side 
above  Baton  Rouge,  the  only  tributary  of  the  Mississippi  within 
this  state.  Its  bed  was  formerly  choked  up  by  an  immense 
accumulation  of  fallen  timber,  called  The  Raft,  which  extended 
over  a  distance  of  160  miles  ;  but  this  is  now  removed,  and  steam- 
boats can  ascend  the  river  several  hundred  miles  higher  than 
formerly. 

On  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  La  Fourche,  the  Teche,  and 
the  Vermillion,  below  latitude  30°  12'  north,  wherever  the  soil  is 
elevated  above  the  annual  inundations,  sugar  can  be  produced  ; 
and  the  lands  are  generally  devoted  to  this  crop.  In  all  other 
parts  of  the  state,  cotton  is  the  staple.  The  best  districts  for 
cotton  are  the  banks  of  Red  River,  Washita,  Teche,  and  the 
Mississippi.  The  cultivation  of  rice  is  more  particularly  con- 
fined to  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  where  irrigation  can  be 
easily  performed. 

The  amount  of  sugar  produced  has  gradually  increased  in  this 
state,  from  1783  to  the  present  time.  The  crop  of  sugar  is  now 
from  70,000  to  90,000  hhds. ;  and  of  cotton,  about  200^000  bales. 
Indian-corn  and  tobacco  are  also  produced.  The  prairies  of  the 
western  part  of  the  state  afford  fine  pastures,  and  here  are  found 
large  herds  of  cattle  and  horses. 

There  are  valuable  school  lands  in  Louisiana,  reserved,  like 
those  in  the  other  new  states,  on  the  sale  of  the  public  lands  ; 
and  there  are  three  colleges  in  the  state,  Louisiana  college  at 

12*  O  157 


138  NORTH   AMERICA. 

Jackson,  Franklin  college  at  Opelousas,  and  Jefferson  college ; 
in  1835,  the  legislature  voted  an  allowance  of  15,000  dollars  a 
year  to  each  of  these  institutions,  and  some  attempts  have  been 
made,  although  with  not  much  success,  to  provide  for  the  educa- 
tion of  poor  children.  There  is  a  medical  school  in  New  Or- 
leans. The  Roman  Catholics  form  the  majority  of  the  popula- 
tion ;  but  there  are  many  Methodists,  Baptists,  Presbyterians, 
and  Episcopalians. 

Several  rail-roads  are  constructing  in  the  state.  The  New 
Orleans  and  Nashville  rail-road  is  in  progress  from  New  Orleans 
to  the  Mississippi  state  line,  88  miles.  This  vast  work,  when 
finished,  will  no  doubt  bring  a  great  increase  of  trade  to  New 
Orleans  :  it  will  be  upwards  of  500  miles  in  length.  The  Clin- 
ton and  Port  Hudson,  28  miles,  has  been  lately  finished.  The 
Atchalafaya  rail-road,  from  Opelousas  to  the  Mississippi  river,  is 
in  progress,  and  a  rail-road  has  been  made  from  Alexandria  to  a 
point  on  the  Bayou  Bceuf,  a  distance  of  30  miles.  The  St. 
Francisville  and  Woodville  rail-road,  28  miles,  is  principally 
within  this  state. 

The  New  Orleans  and  La  Fourche  canal,  extending  from  the 
Mississippi  to  the  river  La  Fourche,  is  in  progress.  Some  useful 
works  of  less  extent  have  also  been  executed.  Among  these  are 
the  Pontchartrain  rail-road,  four  miles,  from  New  Orleans  to  the 
lake  of  that  name,  and  the  Carrollton  rail -road,  from  the  same 
city,  six  miles  up  the  river.  There  are  also  canals  from  New 
Orleans  to  Lake  Pontchartrain. 

The  population  of  Louisiana  consists  in  part  of  the  French 
and  Spanish  colonists  by  whom  it  was  occupied  at  the  time  of 
the  cession,  but  it  comprises  also  a  large  and  increasing  number 
of  immigrants  from  the  other  states.  The  French  language  is 
used  exclusively  by  a  considerable  proportion  of  the  population, 
but  the  English  is  also  familiar  to  many  inhabitants  of  French 
origin. 

POPULATION  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS. 


INCREASE. 

In  1810. . . .    76,556 

1820 ... .  153,407  From  1810  to  1820 ... .    76,851 
1830....  215,739  1820  to  1830. .. .    62,322 


SLAVES. 

34,660 

69,064 

109,588 


1840 ....  352,402  *  1830  to  1840 ... .  136,663  I  165,219 


34,404 
40,524 
55,631 


Of  the  above  population  of  1840,  there  were  white  males  and 
females,  153,988.  Free  coloured  persons,  25,363;  slaves,  165,219. 

New  Orleans,  the  third  commercial  mart  in  the  Union,  stands 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  100  miles  from  the  sea  by 

*  Including  the  population  of  La  Fayette  parish,  estimated  at  7832,  the 
different  classes  of  which  were  not  specified  in  the  returns. 

158 


LOUISIANA.  139 

the  course  of  the  river,  and  four  miles  from  Lake  Pontchartrain. 
Steam-boats  and  small  vessels  come  up  to  the  landing  on  the 
latter,  where  an  artificial  harbour  has  been  formed,  and  whence 
a  rail-road  and  two  canals  extend  to  the  rear  of  the  city.  In  the 
front  of  the  city,  on  the  river,  the  largest  merchant-ships  lie 
close  up  to  the  levee  or  bank,  so  that  no  wharves  are  necessary 
to  enable  them  to  load  and  discharge.  The  river  is  here  from 
100  to  160  feet  deep,  and  a  half-mile  wide. 

New  Orleans  is  the  depot  of  the  whole  Mississippi  Valley,  and 
must  increase  in  importance  with  the  daily  growing  wealth  and 
population  of  that  vast  region.  Thousands  of  huge  arks  and 
flat-boats  float  down  its  mighty  artery  for  thousands  of  miles, 
loaded  with  the  produce  of  New  York,  Pennsylvania,  and  Vir- 
ginia, as  well  as  with  that  of  the  more  western  states.  The 
number  of  steam-boat  arrivals  in  1837  was  1549;  and  from 
1500  to  2000  flat-boats,  50  to  60  steamers,  and  a  forest  of  the 
masts  of  sea-vessels,  may  be  seen  lying  at  once  along  its  levee. 

The  produce  that  arrived  at  this  place  from  the  various  states, 
die.  watered  by  the  Mississippi  and  its  tributary  streams,  during 
the  year  1838,  is  estimated  to  amount  in  value  to  75,000,000 
dollars ;  among  which  were  750,000  bales  of  cotton,  300,000 
barrels  of  flour,  50,000  hogsheads  of  sugar,  and  40,000  hogs- 
heads of  tobacco,  besides  large  quantities  of  molasses,  salted 
provisions,  whiskey,  lead,  &c.  The  whole  amount  of  the  com- 
mercial transactions  of  this  city  during  the  year,  probably 
exceeds  80,000,000  dollars. 

The  city  stands  on  a  dead  level,  and  is  regularly  laid  out, 
with  the  streets  intersecting  each  other  at  right  angles ;  as  the 
surface  of  the  water  is  from  two  to  four  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  city  at  high  water,  and  even  in  low  stages  of  water,  is  above 
the  swamps  in  the  rear,  a  levee,  or  embankment,  from  four  to 
eight  feet  high,  has  been  made  ail  along  the  river  to  prevent 
inundations  ;  a  breach  or  crevasse  sometimes  occurs  in  this  dike, 
but  it  is  rarely  permitted  to  do  much  damage  before  it  is  closed. 

Among  the  public  buildings  are  the  Roman  Catholic  cathedral, 
a  massive  and  imposing  building  with  four  towers,  the  state- 
house,  city  hall,  custom-house,  exchange,  mint,  Ursuline  con- 
vent, several  theatres,  the  college  of  Orleans,  the  charity  hospi- 
tal, in  which  9000  patients  have  been  received  in  a  single  year, 
and  three  other  hospitals,  the  orphan  asylum,  &c.  The  chari- 
table institutions  are  numerous  and  well  conducted.  Population 
in  1810,  17,242;  in  1820,  27,176;  in  1830,  46,310;  and  in 
1840,  102,191,  exclusive  of  from  40,000  to  50,000  strangers 
during  the  winter. 

Donaldsonville,  for  some  time  the  capital  of  the  state,  is  a  vi'l- 


140  NORTH    AMERICA. 

lage  with  about  1000  inhabitants,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Lafourche 
outlet.  Baton  Rouge,  130  miles,  by  the  river,  above  New  Or- 
leans, is  a  pretty  village,  with  houses  in  the  French  and  Spanish 
style,  and  it  contains  a  military  post,  and  an  arsenal  of  the 
United  States.  The  population  of  Baton  Rouge  is  about  1500. 
St.  Francisville,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Bayou  Sara,  is  a  neat,  busy, 
and  thriving  village,  consisting  chiefly  of  one  street. 

Alexandria,  on  Red  river,  100  miles  from  the  Mississippi  by 
the  windings  of  the  stream,  is  a  pleasant  little  village  in  the  cen- 
tre of  a  rich  cotton  region,  and  ships  large  quantities  of  that 
staple  for  New  Orleans.     Population,  1500. 

Natchitoches,  90  miles  above  Alexandria,  was  founded  in  1717 ; 
the  population,  2500  in  number,  is  a  mixture  of  French,  Indians, 
Spanish,  and  Americans.  It  was  formerly  the  centre  of  the 
trade  with  the  Mexican  interior  provinces,  receiving  dollars, 
horses,  and  mules,  and  sending  off  manufactured  goods,  tobacco, 
and  spirits.  St.  Martinsville,  and  New  Iberia,  on  the  Teche, 
and  Opelousas  or  St.  Landre,  to  the  north,  are  small  villages, 
containing  from  300  to  500  inhabitants,  but  surrounded  by  a  fer- 
tile and  well-cultivated  country. 


WESTERN  STATES  AND  TERRITORIES. 

This  section  of  the  United  States  comprises  the  states  of  Ohio, 
Kentucky,  Tennessee,  Indiana,  Illinois,  Michigan,  Missouri,  and 
Arkansas,  the  organized  Territory  of  Wisconsin,  together  with 
the  nominal  Territories  of  Missouri  and  Oregon,  and  the  West- 
ern or  Indian  Territory,  assigned  by  the  Federal  government  for 
the  residence  of  the  emigrant  Indian  tribes. 

It  includes  the  whole  of  that  vast  space  extending  from  the 
western  base  of  the  Alleghany  Mountains  to  the  Pacific  ocean, 
and  from  the  Red  river  of  Louisiana  and  the  42d  degree  of  lati- 
tude on  the  south  to  the  parallels  of  49°  and  54°  40'  on  the 
north,  extending  from  east  to  west  2300  miles,  and  from  north 
to  south  1100  miles,  comprising  an  area  of  1,683,000  square 
miles. 

The  Rocky  Mountains  are  the  most  important  in  this  region. 
They  are  but  imperfectly  known  to  us,  and  present  a  very  rug- 
ged and  sterile  appearance.  The  other  elevations  are  the  Ozark 
Mountains,  extending  from  Missouri  south-west  to  Mexico ;  the 
Black  Hills,  between  the  Missouri  and  Yellow-Stone  rivers ;  and 
between  the  former  river  and  the  St.  Peter's  river  a  low  ridge 
intervenes,  known  as  the  Coteau  des  Prairies. 

160 


WESTERN    STATES.  141 

The  immense  prairies  of  this  region  constitute  the  most  re- 
markable feature  of  the  country.  These  are  level  plains  stretch- 
ing as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  totally  destitute  of  trees,  and 
covered  with  tall  grass  or  flowering  shrubs.  Some  have  an 
undulating  surface,  and  are  called  rolling  prairies ;  these  are  the 
most  extensive,  and  are  the  favourite  resort  of  the  buffalo. 

Here,  without  a  tree  or  a  stream  of  water,  the  traveller  may 
wander  for  days,  and  discover  nothing  but  a  grassy  ocean, 
bounded  on  all  sides  by  the  horizon.  In  the  dry  season,  the 
Indians  set  fire  to  the  grass ;  and  the  wide  conflagration  which 
ensues,  often  surprises  the  buffalo,  deer,  and  other  wild  animals, 
who  are  unable  to  escape  from  the  flames,  and  are  burned  to 
death. 

Much  of  this  great  country,  especially  the  northern  and  western 
parts,  remains  to  be  explored.  Of  the  region  west  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, hardly  any  thing  was  known  before  the  beginning  of  the 
present  century,  when  the  government  of  the  United  States  dis- 
patched Captains  Lewis  and  Clark  on  an  expedition  of  discovery. 
These  officers,  at  the  head  of  a  large  party,  well  equipped,  pro- 
ceeded up  the  Missouri  in  boats  to  its  source,  crossed  the  Rocky 
Mountains  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  returned  by  the  same  course. 
The  southern  part  was  explored  by  an  expedition  under  Lieutenant 
Pike;  and  at  a  later  period,  Major  Long  and  other  travellers  have 
visited  different  parts  of  the  country. 

The  great  physical  features  of  this  extensive  region,  are  ks 
giant  rivers,  with  their  hundred  arms,  spreading  for  thousands  of 
miles  through  every  corner  of  the  territory,  and  bringing  its  most 
remote  recesses  in  the  very  heart  of  a  vast  continent,  almost 
into  contact  with  the  sea.  The  main  trunks  of  this  great  system 
of  rivers,  are  the  Mississippi  and  the  Missouri.  The  Ohio,  on  the 
east,  and  the  Arkansas,  Red  River,  and  Platte,  on  the  west,  are 
the  largest  of  the  subordinate  streams. 

These  vast  water-courses  give  to  the  mode  of  travelling  and 
transportation  in  general,  a  remarkable  cast,  and  have  created  a 
peculiar  class  of  men  called  boatmen.  Craft  of  all  description 
are  found  on  these  rivers.  There  are  the  rude,  shapeless  masses, 
that  denote  the  infancy  of  navigation,  and  the  powerful  and 
richly-adorned  steam-boat  which  makes  its  perfection ;  together 
with  all  the  intermediate  forms  between  these  extremes. 

Since  the  use  of  steam-boats,  numbers  of  the  other  craft  have 
disappeared,  and  the  number  of  river  boatmen  has  been  dimin- 
ished by  many  thousands.  There  are  at  present  not  far  from 
300  steam-boats  on  the  Mississippi  and  its  tributaries,  making  an 
aggregate  of  about  60,000  tons. 

Lead,  iron,  coal,  salt,  and  lime  abound  in  the  Western  States 

O*  161 


142  NORTH    AMERICA. 

and  probably  no  region  in  the  world  exhibits  such  a  combination 
of  mineral  wealth  and  fertility  of  soil,  united  with  such  rare  faci- 
lities of  transportation.  Tobacco,  Indian-corn,  hemp,  cotton, 
salted  provisions,  flour,  whiskey,  hides  and  furs,  coarse  bagging, 
and  lead,  are  the  most  important  articles  of  export;  and  all  sorts 
of  manufactured  goods  and  colonial  produce  are  imported. 

The  character  of  the  Western  States  is  mixed,  but  the  predo- 
minant traits  are  those  of  Virginia,  and  of  New  England.  Ken- 
tucky was  settled  from  Virginia  and  North  Carolina  ;  while  Ohio 
is  a  scion  of  New  England.  These  two  states  have  in  turn  sent 
their  population  farther  west.  But  there  is  much  sectional  cha- 
racter, much  of  the  openness  and  boldness  of  the  men  and  their 
descendants,  who  contested  every  inch  of  territory  with  savages, 
whose  houses  were  garrisons,  and  who  fought  at  the  threshold 
foi  their  hearths  and  altars.  The  population  of  the  western 
states  and  territories  in  1840,  was  5,043,374;*  of  whom2, 383,723 
were  white  males,  and  2,183,815  white  females.  Total,  whites, 
4,567,538.  Free  coloured,  32,066 ;  slaves,  443,770.  Total, 
coloured,  475,836. 

The  negroes  constitute  a  considerable  part  of  the  population. 
They  are  held  as  slaves  in  all  the  states  but  Ohio,  Indiana,  Illinois, 
and  Michigan.  Nearly  all  the  Indians  in  the  United  States  are 
found  within  the  limits  of  this  quarter  of  the  Union.  Some  of 
these  are  partially  civilized,  but  a  considerable  number  still  remain 
unchanged ;  and  while  the  settlements,  arts,  and  improvements 
of  white  men  are  narrowing  their  boundaries,  they  still  retain 
their  original  savage  character  and  condition. 

The  Creeks,  Choctaws,  Cherokees,  Chickasaws,  and  other  tribes 
now  resident  in  the  Indian  territory,  and  under  the  protection  of 
the  general  government,  increase  steadily  in  population  and  pros- 
perity ;  while  the  Sioux,  Riccarees,  Blackfeet,  and  other  rude, 
roving  bands  of  the  Upper  Missouri,  are  decreasing  rapidly  in 
numbers  and  importance.  Within  a  few  years  the  small-pox  has 
swept  them  by  thousands  from  the  face  of  the  earth ;  and  tribes 
but  lately  numerous  and  powerful,  are  now  reduced  to  a  few 
individuals. 


STATE  OF  OHIO. 
This  enterprising  and  populous  state  is  bounded  on  the  north 
by  Lake  Erie  and  Michigan  territory ;  east  by  Pennsylvania  and 
Virginia ;  south  by  the  Ohio  river,  which  separates  it  from 
western  Virginia  and  Kentucky  ;  and  west  by  Indiana.  Its  length 
is  210  miles,  and  mean  breadth  200,  containing  about  44,000 

*  Including  the  population  of  Carter  County,  Kentucky,  estimated  at  3000, 
of  which  the  different  classes  are  unknown. 


OHIO.  143 

square  miles.     The  Ohio  river  forms  the  boundary  of  this  state, 
on  the  south-east  and  south,  for  near  500  miles. 

The  rivers  which  flow  into  Lake  Erie  on  the  north,  are  Maumee, 
Sandusky,  Huron,  Vermillion,  Black,  Cuyahoga,  Grand,  and 
Ashtabula ;  those  on  the  south  flowing  into  the  Ohio,  are  the 
Muskingum,  Hocking,  Little  and  Great  Miami. 

The  interior  and  northern  parts  of  the  country,  bordering  on 
Lake  Erie,  are  generally  level,  and  in  some  places  marshy. 
Nearly  one-third  of  the  eastern  and  south-eastern  part  is  very 
hilly  and  broken.  The  hills  are  exceedingly  numerous,  but  they 
seldom  rise  into  considerable  mountains.  Immediately  upon  the 
banks  of  the  Ohio,  and  several  of  its  tributaries,  are  numerous 
tracts  of  interval  or  meadow-land,  of  great  fertility. 

The  state  produces  abundantly  every  thing  that  is  raised  in 
the  middle  states.  Indian-corn  grows  luxuriantly ;  wheat  grows 
finely ;  and  flour  is  exported  in  vast  quantities  by  the  Ohio  and 
Lake  Erie  to  southern  and  eastern  markets.  Many  steam-mills 
have  been  erected,  especially  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Ohio  river,  for 
the  manufacturing  of  flour.  Mills  for  the  same  purpose,  pro- 
pelled by  water,  are  to  be  found  in  every  part  of  the  state. 

Rye,  oats,  buckwheat,  &c.  are  produced  abundantly ;  and 
tobacco  is  raised  to  the  amount  of  25,000  hogsheads  annually. 
Horses,  cattle,  and  hogs  are  here  raised  in  great  numbers,  and 
driven  to  an  eastern  market ;  and  thousands  of  barrels  of  beef 
and  pork  are  sent  from  all  the  towns  on  the  navigable  streams, 
to  the  southern  part  of  the  valley,  or  to  New  York. 

Coal  is  found  in  great  quantities  in  the  eastern  parts.  Iron 
ore  has  been  discovered,  and  wrought  pretty  extensively  in  several 
places.  Salt  springs  are  found  on  some  of  the  eastern  waters  of 
Muskingum,  and  on  Salt  creek,  28  miles  south-east  of  Chillicothe, 
where  there  are  considerable  salt-works. 

The  manufactures  of  the  state  are  yet  in  their  infancy,  but  are 
rapidly  increasing  in  importance.  The  local  position  of  Ohio 
gives  it  great  facilities  for  trade  ;  the  Ohio  river  affords  direct  com- 
munication with  all  the  country  in  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi, 
while  by  means  of  Lake  Erie  on  the  north  it  communicates  with 
Canada  and  New  York. 

The  northern  and  eastern  counties  export  great  quantities  of 
agricultural  produce  to  Montreal  and  New  York,  and  since  the 
construction  of  the  Ohio  and  Pennsylvania  canals,  a  vast  amount 
of  the  productions  of  the  southern  and  western  counties  also  find 
their  way  to  New  York  and  Philadelphia  :  an  active  export  trade 
is  likewise  carried  on  down  the  river,  by  way  of  New  Orleans. 

A  system  of  general  education  has  been  organized,  and  is  in 
efficient  operation  throughout  the  state.     In  addition  to  the  funds 


144  NORTH    AMERICA. 

arising  from  the  sale  of  school  lands  appropriated  by  Congress, 
a  state  tax  is  levied  to  aid  in  the  support  of  common  schools ; 
each  township  is  divided  into  school  districts,  and  those  districts 
which  support  a  school  for  three  months  in  a  year  are  entitled  to 
receive  their  quota  of  the  state's  money.  In  1838  there  were 
about  500,000  pupils  in  the  public  schools  of  Ohio.  There  are 
about  30  respectable  academies  in  the  state,  and  10  colleges. 
The  predominant  religious  sects  are  the  Presbyterians,  Metho- 
dists, and  Baptists.  The  Lutherans,  Episcopalians,  German 
Reformed,  and  Friends,  are  also  numerous,  and  there  are  some 
Roman  Catholics,  Universalists,  Shakers,  and  adherents  of  the 
New  Jerusalem  Church. 

The  public  works  which  have  been  already  executed,  or  are 
in  a  state  approaching  to  completion,  are  of  a  magnitude  to  strike 
us  with  surprise,  when  we  consider  the  infant  character  of  the 
state.  Two  great  works,  crossing  the  state  from  north  to  south, 
connect  the  waters  of  the  Ohio  with  those  of  the  great  lakes,  and 
through  them  with  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  The  Ohio  canal  extends 
from  Portsmouth  at  the  mouth  of  the  Scioto,  to  Lake  Erie,  a 
distance  of  310  miles,  with  navigable  feeders  of  24  miles. 

The  Miami  canal,  extending  from  Cincinnati  to  the  Wabash 
and  Erie  canal  at  Defiance,  265  miles,  is  not  yet  completed. 
The  Wabash  and  Erie  canal  extends  from  Manhattan  on  the 
Maumee,  to  the  Indiana  state  line,  whence  it  is  continued  to  the 
Wabash  in  that  state :  the  section  within  Ohio  is  80  miles  in 
length.  These  works  are  executed  by  the  state.  The  amount 
of  tolls  received  on  the  Ohio  canals  in  1838,  was  415,000  dollars. 

The  Mahoning,  or  Pennsylvania  and  Ohio  canal,  extending 
from  Akron,  on  the  Ohio  canal,  to  the  Beaver  division  of  the 
Pennsylvania  canal,  82  miles  ;  and  the  Sandy  and  Beaver  canal, 
extending  from  Bolivar  on  the  Ohio  canal,  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Beaver,  73  miles,  are  in  progress.  The  Mad  river  rail-road, 
begun  in  1835,  will  extend  from  Dayton,  at  the  mouth  of  Mad 
river,  to  Sandusky  Bay,  153  miles.  A  rail-road  from  Cleveland 
to  Pittsburg  has  been  projected  and  authorized  by  law.  The 
state  of  Ohio,  in  the  prosecution  of  her  internal  improvements, 
has  incurred  a  debt  of  10,000,000  dollars.  The  Cumberland  or 
National  road  is  continued  from  Wheeling,  across  this  state, 
through  Zanesville,  Columbus,  and  Springfield,  to  the  Indiana 
line. 

In  competing  for  the  trade  of  the  great  west,  New  York,  Penn- 
sylvania, and  Maryland,  are  making  strenuous  exertions  to  con- 
nect their  lines  of  communication  with  the  canals  and  navigation 
of  Ohio ;  this  being  a  central  point,  in  relation  to  the  western 
trade. 

IM 


OHIO.  145 

The  rapid  growth  of  the  population  of  Ohio  has  never  been 
paralleled  ;  in  42  years  from  the  time  when  it  received  its  first 
white  settlers,  the  number  of  its  inhabitants  was  937,903.  Its 
fertile  and  unoccupied  lands  attracted  immigrants  not  only  from 
the  other  states,  chiefly  the  Eastern  and  Middle,  but  large  bodies 
of  Swiss  and  Germans,  and  great  numbers  of  British  emigrants, 
have  settled  themselves  on  its  rich  plains. 

POPULATION  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS. 

In  1 790 3,000  increase. 

1800 45,365  From  1790  to  1800 42,365 

1810 230,760  1800  to  1810 185,395 

1820 581,434  1810  to  1820 350,674 

1830 937,903  1820  to  1830 356,469 

1840 1,519,467  1830  to  1840 581,564 

Of  the  above  population  of  1840,  there  were,  white  males, 
775,360  ;  white  females,  726,762  ;  deaf  and  dumb,  592  ;  blind, 
405.  Total  whites,  1,502,122.  Free  coloured  persons,  17,342  ; 
slaves,  3. 

The  city  of  Cincinnati,  the  principal  town  in  the  state,  and  the 
largest  city  in  the  west,  is  situated  on  the  first  and  second  banks 
of  the  Ohio  river.  The  streets  are  drawn  with  great  regularity 
in  lines  parallel  and  at  right  angles  to  the  river.  There  are  here 
30  churches,  an  hospital,  a  lunatic  asylum,  a  theatre,  athenoeum, 
medical  college,  &c,  and  the  free  schools  of  the  city  are  nume- 
rous, and  on  an  excellent  footing.  The  growth  of  Cincinnati  has 
been  astonishingly  rapid;  it  was  founded  in  1789,  and  in  1800 
it  had  a  population  of  750  souls  ;  which  had  increased  in  1830 
to  24,831,  and  in  1840  it  amounted  to  46,382.  It  has  become 
the  seat  of  extensive  manufactures,  and  it  carries  on  an  active 
trade  by  the  river  and  canal.  Steam-boats  and  steam-engines 
are  made  here  to  a  great  extent.  Brass  and  iron  founderies, 
cotton  factories,  rolling  and  slitting-mills,  saw  and  grist-mills,  and 
chemical  laboi-atories,  are  among  the  manufacturing  establish- 
ments :  the  value  of  manufactured  articles  produced  in  1836  was 
estimated  at  upwards  of  12,000,000  dollars  ;  and  the  value  of  the 
exports  was  estimated  at  more  than  8,000,000  dollars.  Beef, 
pork,  wheat  and  flour,  whiskey,  with  various  manufactured  arti- 
cles, are  among  the  exports. 

Columbus,  the  capital  of  the  state,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the 
Scioto,  at  the  intersection  of  the  river  by  the  National  road,  and 
a  branch  of  the  Ohio  canal.  It  is  built  on  a  regular  plan,  with 
a  pretty  square  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  round  which  stand  some 
of  the  principal  public  buildings.  Here  are  the  state-house,  an 
asylum  for  the  deaf  and  dumb,  a  new  penitentiarv,  conducted  on 

13  165 


146  NORTH    AMERICA. 

the  Auburn  plan,  court-houses,  five  churches,  &c.  Population, 
in  1830,  2437  ;  and  in  1836,  5000. 

Chillicothe  stands  between  Paint  creek  and  the  Scioto,  and  the 
streets,  extending  across  the  neck  from  river  to  river,  are  inter- 
sected at  right  angles  by  others  running  parallel  to  the  Scioto. 
Population,  4000.  The  manufactures  of  the  place  are  pretty- 
extensive,  and  are  rapidly  increasing.  Portsmouth,  at  the  south- 
ern end  of  the  Ohio  canal,  derives  importance  from  its  situation; 
its  trade  is  considerable.     Population,  3000. 

Zanesville  stands  at  the  head  of  steam-boat  navigation  on  the 
Muskingum,  by  which  and  the  Ohio  canal  it  has  a  water  com- 
munication with  New  Orleans  and  New  York.  The  falls  in  the 
river  have  made  Zanesville  the  seat  of  numerous  mills  and  manu- 
facturing establishments,  including  flour-mills,  saw-mills,  iron 
founderies  ;  woollen,  paper,  cotton,  and  oil-mills;  glass-works, 
&c.  Population,  7000.  Two  bridges  cross  the  river  here,  and 
the  town  contains  9  churches,  an  athenseum,  two  academies,  &c 

Marietta,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Muskingum,  is  the  oldest  town 
in  the  state;  it  is  pleasantly  situated  partly  on  a  lower  and  partly 
on  an  upper  plain,  with  wide  streets,  shaded  with  trees,  green 
squares,  and  neat  buildings.  There  are  numerous  mounds  and 
embankments  in  and  around  the  town.  Some  steam-boats  are 
built  here ;  several  saw-mills,  an  iron  foundery,  tanneries,  &c, 
also  furnish  occupation  to  the  inhabitants,  whose  number  is  1500. 
Steubenville,  on  the  Ohio,  in  the  midst  of  a  rich  and  populous 
district,  contains  a  number  of  woollen  and  cotton  manufactories, 
iron  and  brass  founderies,  steam-engine  and  machine  factories, 
copperas  works,  several  tanneries,  and  saw  and  flour-mills,  a 
chemical  laboratory,  &c,  with  a  population  of  6000  souls. 
Cleveland,  the  most  important  lake-port  of  Ohio,  stands  on  an 
elevated  plain  at  the  mouth  of  the  Cuyahoga  river  and  of  the 
Ohio  canal.  The  value  of  the  articles  brought  here  in  1838, 
through  the  Ohio  canal,  was  upwards  of  5,000,000  dollars.  The 
lake  commerce  of  Cleveland,  by  steam-boats  and  other  vessels, 
is  very  extensive  :  its  harbour  has  been  secured  by  artificial  piers, 
and  is  commodious  and  easy  of  access.  The  population  in  1830 
was  1076,  and  is  now  not  less  than  7000.  Ohio  city,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river,  contains  2000  inhabitants. 

Huron,  a  thriving  little  town  further  west,  is  the  depot  of  a 
very  rich  and  flourishing  district,  and  Norwalk,  in  its  rear,  situ- 
ated in  a  highly  fertile  country,  contains  some  manufacturing 
establishments.  Sandusky  city  is  situated  on  a  fine  bay,  with  a 
good  harbour,  and  is  a  busy  and  growing  place.  Perrysburg, 
at  the  head  of  steam-boat  navigation  on  the  Maumee,  is  prettily 
situated  upon  a  high  bank  below  the  falls  of  the  river ;  its  situ- 


KENTUCKY  147 

ation  combines  great  advantages  both  for  navigation  and  manu- 
factures, and  the  completion  of  the  Wabash  and  Erie  canal  will 
give  it  new  importance.  Toledo,  formerly  Fort  Lawrence,  is  a 
flourishing  town  further  down  the  river,  with  upwards  of  2000 
inhabitants. 

Dayton,  on  the  Miami,  at  the  junction  of  the  Mad  river, 
which  furnishes  a  great  number  of  mill-seats,  is  a  rapidly  grow- 
ing town,  in  a  highly  productive  region.  It  carries  on  an  active 
trade  by  the  Miami  canal,  and  it  contains  numerous  saw  and 
grist-mills,  several  woollen  and  cotton  factories,  an  oil-mill,  and 
other  manufactories.  Population  in  1830,  2954;  at  present 
about  4000. 


COMMONWEALTH  OF  KENTUCKY. 

Kentucky  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Ohio  river,  east  by 
Virginia,  south  by  Tennessee,  and  west  by  the  Mississippi.  The 
greatest  length  is  about  400  miles,  breadth  170 ;  area  40,000 
square  miles. 

The  principal  rivers  of  Kentucky  are  the  Ohio,  which  flows 
along  the  state  637  miles,  following  its  windings  ;  the  Mississippi, 
Tennessee,  Cumberland,  Kentucky,  Green,  Licking,  Big  Sandy, 
Salt,  and  Rolling. 

Cumberland  Mountains  form  the  south-east  boundary  of  this 
state.  The  eastern  counties,  bordering  on  Virginia,  are  moun- 
tainous and  broken.  A  tract  from  five  to  twenty  miles  wide,  along 
the  banks  of  the  Ohio,  is  hilly  and  broken  land,  interspersed 
with  many  fertile  valleys.  Between  this  strip,  Green  river,  and 
the  eastern  counties,  lies  what  has  been  called  the  garden  of  the 
state.  This  is  the  most  populous  part,  and  is  about  150  miles 
long,  and  from  50  to  100  wide. 

The  whole  state,  below  the  mountains,  rests  on  an  immense 
bed  of  limestone,  usually  about  eight  feet  below  the  surface. 
There  are  everywhere  apertures  in  this  limestone,  through 
which  the  waters  of  the  rivers  sink  into  the  earth.  The  large 
rivers  of  Kentucky,  for  this  reason,  are  more  diminished  during 
the  dry  season,  than  those  of  any  other  part  of  the  United 
States,  and  the  small  streams  entirely  disappear.  In  the  south- 
west part  of  the  state,  between  Green  river  and  the  Cumberland, 
there  are  several  wonderful  caves,  of  which  the  Mammoth  cave 
is  the  most  remarkable,  having  been  explored  to  a  distance  of 
several  miles  from  its  mouth. 

The  principal  productions  of  Kentucky  are  hemp,  tobacco, 


148  NORTH   AMERICA. 

wheat,  and  Indian-corn.  Salt  springs  are  numerous,  and  supply 
not  only  this  state,  but  a  great  part  of  Ohio  and  Tennessee,  with 
this  mineral.  Valuable  lead-mines  have  also  been  recently  dis- 
covered. The  principal  manufactures  are  cloth,  spirits,  cordage, 
salt,  and  maple-sugar.  Hemp,  tobacco,  and  wheat,  are  the  prin- 
cipal exports.  These  are  carried  down  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi 
to  New  Orleans,  and  foreign  goods  received  from  the  same  place 
in  return.  In  addition  to  the  important  commerce  with  New 
Orleans,  by  the  channel  of  the  Mississippi  river,  Kentucky  has 
intimate  commercial  relations  with  the  chief  cities  on  the  Atlan- 
tic seaboard.  The  Ohio  and  Mississippi  rivers  are  the  chief  the- 
atres of  Kentucky  commerce,  but  the  New  York  and  Pennsyl- 
vania canals  are  also  crowded  with  its  materials. 

Some  important  works  have  been  executed  for  the  purpose  of 
extending  the  facilities  of  transportation  afforded  by  the  natural 
channels.  Of  these  the  most  important  is  the  Louisville  and 
Portland  canal,  passing  round  the  falls  of  the  Ohio :  although 
only  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length,  it  is  200  feet  wide  at  the  sur- 
face, and  50  feet  at  the  bottom,  and  its  locks  admit  steam-boats 
of  the  largest  class.  It  is  constructed  in  the  most  solid  and 
durable  manner,  and  cost  1 ,000,000  dollars.  The  Lexington  and 
Ohio  rail-road  is  finished  from  Lexington  to  Frankfort,  28  miles. 

No  system  of  popular  education  has  been  adopted  by  this 
state,  but  in  many  of  the  counties  common  schools  are  supported. 
There  are  also  several  respectable  academies,  and  seven  colleges, 
in  the  state.  The  predominant  religious  sects  are  the  Baptists 
and  Methodists  ;  the  Presbyterians  are  also  numerous,  and  there 
is  a  considerable  number  of  Roman  Catholics  and  Episcopalians. 
POPULATION  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS. 


In  1790-. 
1800.. 
1810.. 
1820.. 
1830.. 
1840.. 

INCREASE. 

SLAVES. 

12,430 

43,344 

80,561 

120,732 

165,350 

182,072 

INCREASE 

.  220,959  From  1790  to  1800. . 
. .  406,511     1800  to  1810.. 
. .  564,317     1810  to  1820.. 
. .  687,917     1820  to  1830.. 
. .  779,923*    1830  to  1840.. 

.  147,282 
.  185,552 
.  147,806 
. .  123,600 
.  92,006 

30,904 
37,217 
40,171 
44,618 
16,722 

Of  the  above  population  of  1840,  there  were,  white  males, 
303,950  ;  white  females,  283,592  ;  deaf  and  dumb,  477  ;  blind, 
374.  Total,  whites,  587,542.  Free  coloured  persons,  7309  ; 
slaves,  182,072. 

Lexington,  the  oldest  town  in  the  state,  and  for  many  years 
the  seat  of  government,  is  beautifully  situated  in  the  centre  of  a 
fine  fertile  tract  of  country.  The  streets  are  spacious,  well  paved, 
and  regularly  laid  out,  and  the  houses  and  public  buildings  are 

*  This  includes  the  population  of  Carter  County,  estimated  at  3000,  of  which 
the  different  classes  are  unknown. 


KENTUCKY.  149 

remarkable  for  neatness  and  elegance.  The  halls  of  Transyl- 
vania University,  the  state  lunatic  asylum,  eleven  churches,  &c, 
are  among  the  public  buildings.  There  are  here  several  large 
cotton  and  woollen  manufactories,  machine-shops,  rope-works, 
cotton  bagging  factories,  &c.     Population  about  7000. 

Frankfort,  the  capital,  stands  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Ken- 
tucky river,  in  a  highly  picturesque  situation ;  the  site  of  the 
town  is  an  alluvial  bottom,  above  which  the  river  hills  rise 
abruptly  to  the  height  of  upwards  of  200  feet,  giving  a  bold,  wild 
character  to  the  scenery,  which  contrasts  finely  with  the  quiet, 
rural  beauty  of  the  town  itself.  Steam-boats  go  up  to  Frankfort, 
60  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  keel-boats  much  higher. 
The  state-house  is  a  handsome  edifice,  built  of  white  marble  taken 
from  the  banks  of  the  river ;  and  there  is  here  a  penitentiary, 
conducted  on  the  Auburn  plan.     The  population  is  2000. 

Louisville,  the  principal  city  of  Kentucky,  and,  in  point  of 
wealth,  trade,  and  population,  one  of  the  most  important  towns 
in  the  Western  States,  is  finely  situated  immediately  above  the 
falls  of  the  Ohio.  The  Louisville  and  Portland  canal  enables 
large  steam-boats  to  reach  Louisville  at  all  stages  of  the  water. 
This  city  carries  on  a  very  extensive  trade,  many  thousands  of 
flat-boats  arriving  here  yearly  from  all  parts  of  the  upper  Ohio, 
and  steam-boats  arriving  and  departing  daily  in  every  direction. 
The  population  of  Louisville,  which  in  1800  amounted  to  600 
souls,  is  now  25,000.  The  manufactures  are  various  and  exten- 
sive, comprising  cotton-yarn  and  stuffs,  iron,  cotton-bagging, 
cordage,  hats,  &c.  The  town  is  well  built  and  regularly  laid  out, 
with  spacious,  straight,  and  well-paved  streets,  running  parallel 
to  the  river,  intersected  by  others  meeting  them  at  right  angles, 
and  the  landing  is  convenient  for  boats.  There  is  a  nautical 
asylum  for  disabled  boatmen  at  Louisville.  Portland  is  a  grow- 
ing little  village  at  the  lower  end  of  the  canal. 

Maysville  is  the  first  considerable  town  of  Kentucky  which  is 
passed  in  descending  the  river  Ohio.  It  is  the  depot  of  the  upper 
part  of  the  state,  and  its  trade  is  pretty  extensive ;  it  has  also 
some  manufactures.  Population,  4000.  ..Maysville  occupies  a 
narrow,  but  somewhat  elevated  bottom,  at  the  mouth  of  Limestone 
creek,  which  affords  a  harbour  for  boats. 

Newport  and  Covington  are  thriving  towns,  situated  on  the 
opposite  banks  of  the  Licking  river,  and  opposite  to  Cincinnati ; 
they  are  the  seats  of  some  manufacturing  industry,  as  well  as  of 
an  active  trade,  and  contained  together,  in  1835,  about  4000 
inhabitants.  At  Newport  there  is  an  United  States'  Arsenal. 
About  20  miles  south-west  is  the  celebrated  Big  Bone  Lick,  which 
is  much  resorted  to  by  invalids  in  the  warm  season. 

13*  P  169 


150  NORTH   AMERICA. 


STATE  OF  TENNESSEE. 

Tennessee  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Kentucky ;  east  by 
North  Carolina ;  south  by  Georgia,  Alabama,  and  Mississippi ; 
and  west  by  Arkansas  territory,  from  which  it  is  separated  by 
the  Mississippi  river.  It  is  430  miles  long,  and  104  broad,  and 
contains  45,000  square  miles. 

The  principal  rivers  are  the  Mississippi,  Tennessee,  Cumber- 
land, Clinch,  Duck,  Holston,  French-Broad,  Nolichucky,  Hiwas- 
see,  Forked  Deer,  Wolf,  and  Elk  rivers. 

Tennessee  is  washed  by  the  river  Mississippi  on  the  west,  and 
the  Tennessee  and  Cumberland  pass  through  it  in  very  serpentine 
courses.  West  Tennessee,  lying  between  the  Mississippi  and  the 
Tennessee  rivers,  is  a  level  or  slightly  undulating  plain :  east  of 
this  section  is  Middle  Tennessee,  of  a  moderately  hilly  surface. 
The  eastern  part  of  the  state  adjoining  North  Carolina,  is  known 
by  the  name  of  East  Tennessee  :  it  abounds  in  mountains,  many 
of  them  lofty,  and  presenting  scenery  peculiarly  grand  and  pic- 
turesque. 

The  soil  in  a  country  so  uneven  must  be  very  various.  The 
western  part  of  the  state  has  a  black,  rich  soil ;  in  the  middle  are 
great  quantities  of  excellent  land  ;  in  the  eastern,  part  of  the  moun- 
tains are  barren,  but  there  are  many  fertile  valleys. 

The  climate  is  generally  healthful.  In  East  Tennessee,  the 
heat  is  so  tempered  by  the  mountain  air  on  one  side,  and  by 
refreshing  breezes  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  on  the  other,  that  this 
part  of  the  state  has  one  of  the  most  desirable  climates  in  North 
America.     The  middle  part  resembles  Kentucky  in  climate. 

The  soil  produces  abundantly  cotton  and  tobacco,  which  are 
the  staple  commodities.  The  inhabitants  also  raise  a  plentiful 
supply  of  grain,  grass,  and  fruit.  They  export  cotton,  tobacco, 
and  flour,  in  considerable  quantities ;  and  many  other  articles. 
The  principal  commerce  is  carried  on  through  the  Tennessee  and 
Cumberland  rivers,  and  from  them  through  the  Ohio  and  Missis- 
sippi to  New  Orleans.  This  state  likewise  supplies  Kentucky, 
Ohio,  &c.  with  cotton  for  inland  manufactures  ,•  and  from  East 
Tennessee  considerable  numbers  of  cattle  are  sent  to  the  sea-ports 
on  the  Atlantic. 

The  most  valuable  mineral  products  of  Tennessee  are  iron, 
gold,  coal,  and  salt.  Gold  is  found  in  the  south-eastern  section, 
but  it  has  not  been  systematically  worked.  Iron  occurs  through- 
out the  state  east  of  the  Tennessee:  there  is  a  considerable  num- 
ber of  furnaces.  Coal  is  found  in  the  Cumberland  mountains  of 
excellent  quality  and  in  great  quantities.     Gold,  marble,  marl, 


TENNESSEE.  151 

buhr-stone,  nitrous  earth,  and  other  useful  minerals  are  found, 
and  there  are  some  valuable  mineral  springs. 

A  rail-road  from  Knoxville  to  Charleston,  forming  part  of  the 
great  Ohio  and  Charleston  rail-road,  has  been  proposed :  also, 
others  from  North  Carolina  towards  Knoxville,  and  from  Georgia 
towards  the  Tennessee  river.  Another  great  work  from  New 
Orleans  to  Nashville,  500  miles  in  length,  is  in  actual  progress. 
The  only  work  of  this  kind  yet  finished  in  Tennessee,  is  the 
Memphis  and  Lagrange  rail-road,  50  miles  long,  with  a  branch 
of  13  miles  from  Macon  to  Somerville.  The  Hiwassee  rail-road 
from  Calhoun  to  Knoxville,  70  miles,  is  in  progress. 

The  state  has  a  school-fund  of  835,000  dollars,  the  interest  of 
which  is  distributed  to  such  school  districts  as  provide  a  school- 
house,  but  little  has  yet  been  done  towards  the  establishment  of 
a  common  school  system  throughout  the  state.  There  are  a 
number  of  respectable  academies,  and  five  collegiate  institutions. 
The  Methodists  and  Baptists  are  the  most  numerous  religious 
bodies  in  Tennessee ;  the  Presbyterians  are  also  numerous,  and 
there  are  some  Episcopalians,  Lutherans,  Friends,  &c. 

POPULATION  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS. 

In  1800 105,602 

1810 261,727 

1820 420,813 

1830 681,903 

1840 829,210 

Of  the  above  population  of  1840,  there  were,  white  males, 
325,434  ;  white  females,  315,193;  deaf  and  dumb,  358  ;  blind, 
354.  Total,  whites,  640,627.  Free  coloured  persons,  5524 ; 
slaves,  183,059. 

Nashville,  the  capital,  and  the  only  considerable  city  of  the 
state,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  southern  bank  of  the  Cumber- 
land, in  a  fertile  and  picturesque  tract.  The  site  is  elevated  and 
uneven,  and  the  town  is  well  built,  containing,  beside  some  ele- 
gant dwelling-houses,  the  court-house,  a  lunatic  asylum,  a  peni- 
tentiary conducted  on  the  Auburn  system,  the  halls  of  Nashville 
University,  six  churches,  &c.  The  trade  is  active  and  pretty 
extensive,  and  there  are  some  manufactories,  comprising  several 
brass  and  iron  founderies,  rolling-mills,  tanneries,  &c.  The 
population  was  increased  from  5566  in  1830,  to  about  9000  at 
the  present  time.  Clarksville,  below  Nashville,  is  a  thriving  little 
town.  Franklin,  to  the  south  of  Nashville,  is  a  busy  town,  with 
1500  inhabitants,  who  carry  on  some  branches  of  mechanical 
and  manufacturing  industry  pretty  extensively. 


INCREASE. 

SLAVES. 

13,584 
44,535 

INCREASE. 

From  1800  to  1810. . 

.  156,125 

30,951 

1810  to  1820.. 

.  159,086 

80,107 

35,572 

1820  to  1830.. 

.  261,090 

141,603 

61,496 

1830  to  1840.. 

.  147,307 

183,059 

41,456 

152  NORTH   AMERICA. 

Knoxville,  having  2000  inhabitants,  stands  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Holston  river,  and  was  for  some  time  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment, and  a  place  of  considerable  trade ;  its  commercial  impor- 
tance, however,  has  of  late  much  diminished.  It  contains  the 
halls  of  East  Tennessee  college,  a  useful  and  flourishing  institu- 
tion. The  other  towns  of  this  section,  Blountville,  Jonesboro', 
Rogersville,  and  Maryville,  are  little  villages  of  500  or  600 
inhabitants  each. 

In  the  southern  part  of  the  state,  Winchester,  Fayetteville,  at 
the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Elk  river,  and  Pulaski,  are  thriving 
little  towns.  Columbia,  on  the  Duck  river,  is  one  of  the  most 
flourishing  towns  in  the  state  :  it  is  the  seat  of  Jackson  college. 
Murfreesboro,  for  some  time  the  capital  of  the  state,  is  pleasantly- 
situated  in  a  very  rich  and  highly  cultivated  district ;  Bolivar,  at 
the  head  of  navigation,  on  the  Hatchee,  a  very  growing  and 
busy  town  ;  Randolph,  on  the  second  Chickasaw  Bluff,  below 
the  mouth  of  the  Big  Hatchee  river,  with  a  good  harbour  for 
steam-boats  in  all  stages  of  the  water,  and  conveniently  placed 
for  the  outlet  of  a  productive  region ;  and  Memphis,  with  2000 
inhabitants,  at  the  fourth  Chickasaw  Bluff,  with  one  of  the  best 
sites  for  a  commercial  emporium  on  the  Mississippi,  are  all 
small  towns,  but  of  growing  business  and  importance. 

The  Chickasaw  Bluffs,  or  points  where  the  river-hills  reach 
the  river,  presenting  sites  above  the  reach  of  the  floods,  are  four 
in  number ;  the  first,  being  below  the  mouth  of  the  Forked  Deer 
river,  is  the  site  of  Ashport ;  the  second,  that  of  Randolph ;  the 
third,  18  miles  below,  is  not  yet  occupied ;  the  fourth  is  the  site 
of  Memphis.  The  latter  is  30  feet  above  the  highest  floods,  and 
its  base  is  washed  by  the  river  for  a  distance  of  three  miles, 
while  a  bed  of  sand-stone,  the  only  known  stratum  of  rocks  be- 
low the  Ohio,  juts  into  the  stream  and  forms  a  convenient  land- 
ing. From  the  Ohio  to  Vicksburg,  a  distance  of  650  miles,  it 
is  the  only  site  for  a  great  commercial  mart  on  either  bank  of  the 
Mississippi. 


STATE  OF  MICHIGAN. 

The  country  to  which  the  name  of  Michigan  has  been  usually 
applied,  is  a  large  peninsula,  with  its  base  resting  upon  the  states 
of  Ohio  and  Indiana,  and  bounded  on  the  east  and  north-east 
by  Lake  Huron  for  a  distance  of  250  miles,  and  having  Lake 
Michigan  for  its  western  boundary,  an  extent  of  260  miles.  It  is 
in  length  about  288,  and  in  breadth  at  the  widest  part  190  miles  : 
its  area  being  38,000  square  miles. 


MICHIGAN.  153 

Michigan,  however,  comprises  without  her  bounds  another  and 
entirely  distinct  peninsula,  forming  a  part  of  the  region  nominally 
attached  to  her  while  under  a  territorial  government,  and  added 
permanently  to  her  territory  on  her  admission  as  a  member  of 
the  American  confederacy. 

It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Lake  Superior ;  on  the  east  by 
St.  Mary's  river ;  on  the  south  by  Lakes  Huron  and  Michigan  : 
and  south-west  by  the  Mennomonie  and  Montreal  rivers ;  the 
latter  emptying  into  Lake  Superior,  and  the  former  into  Green 
Bay  :  it  is  in  length  from  east  to  west,  about  320  miles  ;  and  in 
breadth  it  varies  from  160  to  30  or  40  miles ;  the  area  is  proba- 
bly about  22,000  square  miles;  making  the  area  of  the  whole 
state  about  60,000  miles. 

The  northern  peninsula  is  but  little  known,  having  been  ex- 
plored only  by  hunters  and  trappers :  the  surface  is  said  to  be 
more  irregular  than  that  of  the  southern  section,  and  also  much 
less  suited  for  agricultural  purposes,  but  it  will  nevertheless 
doubtless  become  of  importance  on  account  of  the  large  bodies 
of  pine  timber  contained  in  various  parts ;  and  also  from  the 
valuable  fisheries  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Superior,  white  fish  being 
taken  in  great  abundance. 

The  rivers  are  numerous  and  flow  mostly  into  Lake  Superior  ; 
they  are  in  general  short  in  their  length  of  course,  and  much 
broken  by  falls  and  rapids.  The  shores  of  the  lake  are  mostly 
low,  and  but  little  indented  by  bays  and  harbours ;  and  as  the 
prevailing  winds  are  from  the  north-west,  and  sweep  with  great 
fury  over  the  wide  unsheltered  expanse  of  the  lake,  navigation  is 
more  stormy  and  dangerous  than  along  the  Canada  shore. 

The  native  inhabitants  of  this  region  are  some  bands  of  the 
Chippeways,  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Superior,  and  Mennomonies, 
on  Green  Bay ;  the  whole  numbering  only  about  1400  or  1500. 
The  only  settlement  in  this  region  is  the  village  of  St.  Mary's,  at 
Fort  Brady  on  the  St.  Mary's  river ;  it  contains  a  population  of 
800,  principally  half-breeds  and  French.  St.  Mary's  river,  the 
outlet  of  the  waters  of  Lake  Superior,  is  about  50  miles  in  length, 
with  a  fall  of  22  feet  in  half  a  mile,  which  prevents  large  vessels 
from  entering  Lake  Superior,  although  canoes  and  boats  of  small 
draught  ascend  and  descend  the  rapids. 

An  act  authorising  the  construction  of  a  ship  canal  around 
these  rapids  has  lately  passed  the  legislature  of  Michigan. 

The  southern  peninsula,  or  Michigan  proper,  is  generally  a 
level  country,  having  no  elevations  that  can  properly  be  called 
hills ;  the  centre  of  the  peninsula  being  a  table-land,  elevated, 
however,  but  a  few  feet  above  the  level  of  the  lakes. 

The  peninsula  abounds  in  rivers :  none  of  these  have  much 

P*  173 


154  NORTH  AMERICA. 

extent  of  course,  and  but  few  of  them  are  navigable  to  any  con- 
siderable distance  inland.  Grand  river  is  the  largest :  it  empties 
into  Lake  Michigan :  its  whole  course  is  about  150  miles,  and  it 
is  navigable  50  miles  from  the  lake  to  the  rapids  for  sloops  and 
steam-boats.  The  St.  Joseph's  river  is  a  considerable  stream, 
and  empties  into  Lake  Michigan  at  the  south-west  angle  of  the 
territory.  It  is,  like  Grand  river,  navigable  for  large  sloops  to 
the  rapids. 

The  other  considerable  streams  which  flow  into  Lake  Michi- 
gan are  the  Kalamazoo,  Grand,  Maskegon,  Pentwater,  Manistic, 
and  Aux  Betsies.  Those  which  flow  into  Lake  Erie  are  the  Raisin 
and  Huron  rivers.  The  Clinton  is  the  only  considerable  river 
which  falls  into  Lake  St.  Clair.  The  Belle,  and  Black,  or  Du- 
lude,  fall  into  St.  Clair  river.  The  Saginaw,  a  considerable  and 
important  river,  running  northward,  falls  into  Saginaw  bay, 
which  is  a  part  of  Lake  Huron. 

The  eastern  parts  of  this  territory,  from  various  circumstances, 
became  first  settled.  Within  the  few  last  years  a  great  mass  of 
emigrants  have  begun  to  spread  themselves  over  this  fine  and 
fertile  country.  Situated,  as  it  is,  between  the  west,  the  south, 
and  the  east,  with  greater  facilities  for  extensive  inland  water 
communication  than  any  other  country  on  the  globe,  with  a  fer- 
tile soil,  of  which  millions  of  acres  are  fit  for  the  plough,  with  a 
healthful  climate,  and  with  a  concurrence  of  circumstances, 
inviting  northern  population,  the  inhabitants  are  increasing,  and 
wealth  accumulates  with  a  rapidity  that  may  vie  with  any  of  the 
neighbouring  states. 

Wheat,  Indian-corn,  oats,  barley,  buckwheat,  potatoes,  apples, 
pears,  plums,  cherries,  and  peaches,  are  raised  easily  and  in 
abundance.  It  is  a  country  more  favourable  to  cultivated  grasses 
than  most  other  regions  of  the  western  country.  In  short,  it 
is  peculiarly  fitted  for  northern  farmers.  No  inland  country, 
according  to  its  age,  population,  and  circumstances,  has  a  greater 
trade.  A  number  of  steam-boats  and  lake-vessels  are  con- 
stantly plying  in  this  trade,  which  is  with  Detroit,  Chicago, 
and  Ohio. 

The  legislative  power  is  vested  in  a  senate  and  house  of  repre- 
sentatives, styled  the  legislature ;  the  former  are  chosen  for  the 
term  of  two  years,  and  the  latter  annually.  The  governor  and 
lieutenant-governor  are  chosen  by  the  people,  and  hold  office  for 
the  term  of  two  years.  The  judges  are  appointed  by  the  gover- 
nor, with  the  consent  of  the  senate,  the  term  of  office  being  seven 
years.  Suffrage  is  universal.  The  constitution  provides  that 
ne«her  slavery  nor  involuntary  servitude  shall  ever  be  introduced 
into  the  state,  except  for  the  punishment  of  crimes ;  and  that  no 


MICHIGAN.  155 

lottery  shall  be  authorised  by  the  state,  nor  shall  the  sale  of  lot- 
tery tickets  be  allowed. 

It  is  also  a  provision  of  the  constitution,  that  the  legislature 
shall  encourage  by  all  suitable  means  the  promotion  of  intellec- 
tual, scientific,  and  agricultural  improvement ;  shall  provide  for 
a  system  of  common  schools,  by  which  a  school  shall  be  kept 
up  and  supported  in  each  school  district  at  least  three  months  in 
every  year ;  and,  as  soon  as  the  circumstances  of  the  state  will 
permit,  shall  provide  for  the  establishment  of  libraries,  one  at 
least  in  each  township.  In  1839  there  were  34,000  children  in 
the  common  schools  of  Michigan. 

The  state  of  Michigan  is  proceeding  with  great  activity  in  the 
prosecution  of  works  of  internal  improvement.  About  2000 
miles  of  canals  and  rail -roads  are  projected,  at  an  estimated 
expense  of  more  than  14,000,000  dollars. 

In  1810,  the  population  amounted  to  4762;  in  1820,  it  was 
8896;  in  1830,  exclusive  of  the  counties  now  belonging  to 
Wisconsin,  28,004;  and  in  1840,  212,267  ;  of  whom  were  white 
males,  113,395;  white  females,  98,165  ;  coloured  persons,  707. 

The  city  of  Detroit,  the  principal  place  in  Michigan,  is  situated 
on  the  western  shore  of  Detroit  river,  which  unites  Lake  Erie 
and  St.  Clair.  Few  places  can  be  more  admirably  situated  for 
a  commercial  city,  and  few  have  a  more  solid  promise  of  per- 
manent prosperity.  The  city  is  regularly  laid  out  and  neatly 
built ;  and  during  the  last  five  or  six  years  its  business  and  popu- 
lation have  increased  commensurately  with  the  growth  of  the 
fertile  countiy  in  its  rear.  In  1830,  the  number  of  the  inhabit- 
ants was  2222  ;  they  are  now  supposed  to  amount  to  10,000. 
There  are  here  a  number  of  churches,  of  which  the  largest 
and  most  striking  is  the  Roman  Catholic  cathedral ;  a  state- 
house,  academy,  and  county  buildings.  Detroit  is  the  depot 
of  all  the  country  on  the  upper  lakes,  and  there  are  16  or  18 
large  steam-boats  plying  between  this  port  and  Chicago  and 
Buffalo. 

Among  the  small  towns  springing  up  in  Michigan  are  Palmer, 
Anne  Arbour,  St.  Joseph,  Grand  Rapids,  and  Marshall ;  also, 
Adrian  and  Monroe  :  the  latter  is  about  two  miles  from  the  mouth 
of  the  river  Raisin,  and  is  accessible  to  steam-boats.  It  contains 
several  saw  and  grist-mills,  a  woollen  manufactory,  and  an  iron 
foundery.  The  rivers  afford  a  number  of  mill-seats,  with  a 
plentiful  supply  of  water.  The  population  is  about  3000.  At 
the  head  of  St.  Clair  river,  at  the  outlet  of  Lake  Huron,  on  a 
commanding  position,  stands  Fort  Gratiot,  a  United  States1  mili- 
tary post;  Mackinaw  is  on  Michillimackinac  island,  at  the 
entrance  of  Lake  Michigan. 

175 


156  NORTH   AMERICA. 


STATE  OF  INDIANA. 


The  state  of  Indiana  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Michigan 
and  Lake  Michigan ;  east  by  Ohio ;  south  by  the  Ohio  river, 
which  separates  it  from  Kentucky ;  and  west  by  Illinois,  from 
which  it  is  separated  in  part  by  the  Wabash  river.  The  mean 
length  is  about  260,  and  mean  breadth  140  miles;  area  about 
36,400  square  miles. 

The  Ohio  river  flows  along  the  southern  extremity  of  this 
state  for  upwards  of  350  miles,  estimated  by  the  course  of  the 
stream.  The  principal  river  besides  the  Ohio,  is  the  Wabash, 
with  its  numerous  branches.  The  Tippecanoe,  from  the  north, 
and  the  White  and  Patoka  rivers,  from  the  east,  are  its  princi- 
pal tributaries.  The  White  river  is  a  valuable  channel  for  trade, 
as  it  drains  the  central  part  of  the  state,  and  has  several  large 
confluents,  of  which  its  east  and  west  forks  are  the  principal. 
The  Maumee  on  the  east,  the  Kankakee  on  the  west,  and  the 
St.  Joseph  of  Lake  Michigan,  are  the  other  chief  rivers. 

There  are  no  mountains  in  Indiana ;  the  country,  however,  is 
more  hilly  than  Illinois,  particularly  towards  the  Ohio  river.  A 
range  of  hills,  called  the  Knobs,  extends  from  the  falls  of  the 
Ohio  to  the  Wabash,  in  a  south-west  direction,  which  in  many 
places  produce  a  broken  and  uneven  surface.  North  of  these 
hills  lie  the  Flat  Woods,  70  miles  wide.  Bordering  on  all  the 
principal  streams,  except  the  Ohio,  there  are  strips  of  bottom  and 
prairie  land ;  both  together,  from  three  to  six  miles  in  width. 
Between  the  Wabash  and  Lake  Michigan,  the  country  is  mostly 
level,  abounding  alternately  with  wood-lands,  prairies,  lakes,  and 
swamps. 

The  agricultural  exports  are  beef,  pork,  cattle,  horses,  swine 
Indian-corn,  hemp,  tobacco,  &c. ;  ginseng,  bees'-wax,  feathers 
and  whiskey,  are  also  exported,  but  we  have  no  means  of  esti- 
mating the  value  of  the  trade.  There  are  some  grist  and  saw- 
mills, a  few  iron  furnaces,  and  some  salt-works,  but  the  manu- 
facturing industry  is  inconsiderable. 

The  mineral  resources  of  Indiana  have  been  little  attended 
to,  and  our  knowledge  of  some  of  them  is  but  imperfect.  Coal, 
iron,  lime,  salt,  &c,  are,  however,  known  to  abound. 

Indiana  has  expended  nearly  4,000,000  dollars  in  internal 
improvements.  The  principal  work  is  the  Wabash  canal,  reach- 
ing from  Manhattan,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Maumee  river,  to  Terre 
Haute,  on  the  Wabash,  310  miles;  thence  to  Evansville,  on  the 
Ohio  river.  The  whole  length  of  this  canal  will  be  444  miles. 
There  are  several  other  canals  and  rail-roads  also  in  progress. 


INDIANA.  157 

The  National  road  passes  from  the  Ohio  line  through  Indianapo- 
lis, but  is  not  yet  completed. 

The  same  provision  has  been  made  by  congress  for  the  sup- 
port of  common  schools,  that  has  been  made  in  the  other  new 
states,  but  no  efficient  system  of  general  education  has  yet  been 
adopted :  the  constitution  makes  it  "  the  duty  of  the  general 
assembly,  as  soon  as  circumstances  shall  permit,  to  provide  by 
law  for  a  general  system  of  education,  ascending  in  a  regular 
gradation,  from  township  schools  to  a  state  university,  wherein 
tuition  shall  be  gratis,  and  equally  open  to  all."  There  are  four 
colleges  in  the  state,  and  academies  have  been  established  in 
several  of  the  counties.  The  Methodists  and  Baptists  are  the 
prevailing  religious  sects ;  the  Presbyterians  and  Friends  are 
numerous,  and  there  are  Roman  Catholics,  Episcopalians,  &c. 


POPULATION  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS 
In  1800 5,641 


INCREASE.  SLAVES. 

133 

1810 24,520     From  1800  to  1810... .....    18,879     237 

1820 147,178  1810  to  1820 122,658      190 

1830 343,031  1820  to  1830 195,853         0 

1840 685,866  1830  to  1840 342,835         3 

Of  the  above  population  of  1840,  there  were,  white  males, 
351,655;  white  females,  327,043.  Total  whites,  678,698.  Free 
coloured  persons,  7165  ;  slaves,  3. 

The  current  of  immigration  has  flowed  steadily  into  Indiana 
during  the  last  15  years,  and  its  population  has  accordingly 
increased  with  great  rapidity :  it  is  estimated  at  present  to  be 
not  less  than  600,000.  Most  of  the  inhabitants  are  from  Ohio, 
and  the  middle  and  northern  states ;  but  there  are  many  im- 
migrants from  Kentucky  and  Virginia,  as  well  as  from  foreign 
countries. 

Indianapolis,  the  capital  of  the  state,  stands  on  a  fine  plain 
near  the  White  river,  and  is  laid  out  with  much  taste  and  regu- 
larity ;  the  spacious  streets  are  lined  with  neat  houses,  and  the 
public  buildings  are  handsome  structures.  There  are  five 
churches,  a  state-house,  court-house,  governor's  house,  &c.  The 
inhabitants  are  about  3000. 

Lawrenceburg,  on  the  Ohio,  just  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Whitewater,  carries  on  an  extensive  trade,  but  its  site  is  so  low 
that  it  is  subject  to  inundation  during  very  high  stages  of  the 
water.  Madison  is  a  flourishing  town,  pleasantly  situated,  60 
miles  below  Lawrenceburg,  with  6000  inhabitants.  Vevay  is  a 
little  village,  settled  by  a  Swiss  colony.  Jeffersonville,  opposite 
Louisville,  is  a  thriving  town ;  it  contains  the  state  prison.  New 
14  "i 


158  NORTH   AMERICA. 

Albany,  below  the  falls  of  the  Ohio,  is  the  largest  town  in  the 
state,  and  contains  about  5000  inhabitants. 

New  Harmony,  on  the  Wabash,  was  founded  by  the  German 
sect  called  Harmonites,  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Rapp ;  in 
1824,  it  was  bought  by  Mr.  Owen  of  Lanark,  who  attempted  to 
put  in  operation  here  his  new  social  system  ;  the  scheme  failed, 
and  his  followers  were  dispersed,  but  the  village  is  now  a  flour- 
ishing place  in  other  hands. 

Vincennes,  higher  up  the  river,  is  an  old  French  settlement, 
formed  in  the  beginning  of  the  last  century.  Population  about 
2000.  Terre  Haute,  Lafayette,  and  Logansport,  are  young  but 
growing  centres  of  trade.  Population  about  2000  each.  Rich- 
mond, on  the  National  road,  near  the  Ohio  state  line,  is  also  a 
prosperous  little  town.  Michigan  city,  founded  on  the  lake  of 
that  name  in  1833,  now  contains  upwards  of  2000  inhabitants, 
and  carries  on  a  considerable  trade. 


STATE  OF  ILLINOIS. 

This  fertile  and  improving  state  is  bounded  north  by  Wiscon- 
sin Territory,  east  by  Michigan  and  Indiana,  south  by  Kentucky, 
and  west  by  the  state  of  Missouri  and  Iowa  Territory.  Its 
medium  length  is  about  350  miles,  and  medium  breadth  about 
170 ;  the  area  being  near  55,000  square  miles. 

The  Mississippi,  Ohio,  and  Wabash,  form  about  two-thirds 
of  the  whole  boundary  of  this  state.  The  other  most  consider- 
able rivers  are  the  Illinois,  Kaskaskia,  Muddy,  Saline,  Little 
Wabash,  Spoon,  Rock,  Sangamon,  Embarras,  Fox,  Des  Plaines, 
&c. 

The  southern  and  middle  parts  of  the  state  are  for  the  most 
part  level.  The  north-western  section  is  a  hilly,  broken  country, 
though  there  are  no  high  mountains.  The  climate  resembles 
that  of  Indiana  and  Ohio.  The  soil  is  generally  very  fertile, 
and  yields  abundant  harvests. 

Indian-corn  is  the  staple  production  of  the  state.  Wheat  is 
also  raised  in  large  quantities ;  and  rye,  hemp,  tobacco,  and 
some  cotton,  with  the  castor-oil  bean,  are  also  among  the  pro- 
ducts of  Illinois.  Large  herds  of  cattle  are  kept  with  little  trou- 
ble, and  great  numbers  are  driven  out  of  the  state,  or  sent  down 
the  river  in  flat-boats.  Thousands  of  hogs  are  raised  with  little 
attention  or  expense,  and  pork  is  largely  exported. 

Coal,  salt,  and  lime,  iron,  lead,  and  copper,  are  among  the 
known  mineral  productions  of  Illinois.  Coal  is  very  abundant 
in  many  quarters,  and  is  considerably  worked.     Lead  is  found 


ILLINOIS.  159 

in  the  north-western  corner  of  the  state  in  exhaustless  quantities  : 
the  lead-diggings  extend  from  the  Wisconsin  to  Rock  river.  The 
Indians  and  French  had  been  long  accustomed  to  procure  the 
ore,  but  it  was  not  until  1822  that  the  process  of  separating  the 
metal  was  begun  to  be  carried  on  here.  Since  that  time,  lead  to 
the  amount  of  probably  85,000,000  pounds  has  been  made.  The 
business  for  several  years  was  overdone,  but  is  now  reviving. 
In  1838,  the  quantity  of  lead  smelted  was  above  10,000,000 
pounds.  This  statement  includes  the  produce  of  Wisconsin 
Territory  as  well  as  of  Illinois.  Some  salt  is  made  near  Shaw- 
neetown ;  near  Danville,  on  the  Little  Vermillion ;  and  near 
Brownville,  on  Muddy  creek.  The  springs  are  owned  by  the 
state,  and  leased  to  the  manufacturers. 

The  same  provision  has  been  made  by  congress  for  the  sup- 
port of  public  schools  in  this  as  in  the  other  new  states,  by  the 
appropriation  of  certain  proportions  of  the  public  land  to  this 
purpose.  But  the  scattered  state  of  the  population  has  as  yet 
prevented  a  general  system  of  public  education  from  being  car- 
ried into  operation.  There  are  four  colleges  and  several  respect- 
able academies  in  the  state.  The  Methodists  and  Baptists  are 
the  most  numerous  religious  sects,  and  there  are  many  Presby- 
terians, Roman  Catholics,  &c. 

An  important  public  work  has  been  commenced  in  this  state, 
which  will  effect  the  junction  of  the  Mississippi  and  Lake  Michi- 
gan :  the  Illinois  and  Chicago  canal,  extending  from  Chicago  on 
the  lake  to  a  point  below  the  rapids  of  the  Illinois,  a  distance  of 
about  100  miles,  is  in  progress.  Five  extensive  rail-roads  to 
cross  the  state  in  various  directions,  and  amounting  altogether  to 
upwards  of  1100  miles,  have  been  undertaken:  these  are  to  be 
executed  by  the  state ;  and  appropriations  have  been  made  to 
carry  them  on.  Several  smaller  rail-roads,  projected  by  indi- 
vidual enterprise,  are  in  progress. 

The  population  of  Illinois  has  increased  with  the  same  amaz- 
ing rapidity  as  that  of  the  neighbouring  states.  The  constitution 
provides  that  neither  slavery  nor  involuntary  servitude  shall 
hereafter  be  introduced  into  the  state,  otherwise  than  for  the  pun- 
ishment of  crimes ;  and  as  negroes  coming  into  the  state  are 
required  to  give  bonds  with  security,  that  they  will  not  become 
chargeable  as  paupers,  there  are  few  blacks. 

POPULATION  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS. 

In  1810 12,282  increase. 

1820 55,211  From  1810  to  1820 42,929 

1830 157,455  1820  to  1830 102,244 

1840 474,807  1830  to  1840 317,352 

Of  the  above   population  of  1840,  there  were,  white  males, 


160  NORTH  AMERICA. 

255,235;  white  females,  217,019;  deaf  and  dumb,  179;  blind, 
96.  Total,  whites,  472,254.  Free  coloured  persons,  2,553 ; 
slaves,  331. 

The  most  thriving  town  in  Illinois,  and  the  principal  depot  of 
the  state,  is  Chicago,  on  Lake  Michigan.  The  canal  now  in 
progress  from  this  place  to  the  Illinois  river,  when  completed  will 
bring  a  vast  increase  of  trade  to  this  city.  An  artificial  harbour 
has  been  made  by  the  construction  of  piers,  which,  extending 
some  distance  into  the  lake,  prevent  the  accumulation  of  sand  on 
the  bar.  Chicago  has  become  within  a  kw  years  the  centre  of 
a  large  and  growing  trade :  numerous  steam-boats,  ships,  brigs, 
and  other  vessels,  are  constantly  arriving  with  goods,  emigrants, 
&c,  and  departing  with  the  produce  of  the  country.  Population, 
from  6000  to  8000. 

Vandalia,  the  late  capital  of  the  state,  is  a  small  town,  with  a 
population  of  about  500  inhabitants,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Kas- 
kaskia  river,  about  80  miles  north-east  of  St.  Louis. 

The  most  commercial  place  in  this  state  on  the  Mississippi 
river  is  Alton,  situated  two  miles  and  a  half  above  the  mouth  of 
the  Missouri,  and  18  below  that  of  the  Illinois.  It  is  the  western 
depot  for  the  produce  of  Illinois.  Possessing  a  fine,  commodious 
harbour,  with  an  excellent  landing  for  steam-boats,  Alton  has 
become  the  centre  of  an  active  and  daily  growing  trade.  Popu- 
lation, from  3000  to  4000.  Upper  Alton,  in  the  rear  of  Alton, 
and  about  three  miles  distant,  is  the  seat  of  Shurtleff  college  and 
a  theological  seminary.  Edwardsville  is  a  neat  and  thriving 
village,  to  the  north  of  Alton. 

Peoria  is  beautifully  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  lake  of  that  name, 
and  on  the  Illinois  river.  It  contains  about  2000  inhabitants. 
Ottawa,  above  the  rapids,  and  at  the  western  termination  of  the 
Illinois  and  Michigan  canal,  is  also  a  flourishing  village,  with 
deep  water  and  a  good  landing. 

Cahokia  and  Kaskaskia  are  old  French  villages  on  the  Ameri- 
can bottom,  with  not  more  than  500  to  600  inhabitants,  most  of 
whom  are  French. 

Springfield,  near  the  centre  of  the  state,  on  the  border  of  a 
beautiful  prairie,  and  surrounded  by  one  of  the  most  fertile  tracts 
in  the  western  country,  has  been  chosen  by  the  legislature  to  be 
the  capital  after  the  year  1839:  a  handsome  state-house  is  here 
erected.     Population,  3000. 

Jacksonville,  further  west,  in  the  midst  of  a  beautifully  undu- 
lating and  now  cultivated  prairie,  is  a  busy,  flourishing  town, 
with  about  3000  inhabitants. 

On  the  Mississippi,  above  the  Illinois,  Quincy  and  Stephenson, 
at  the  mouth  of  Rock  river,  are  favourably  situated :  the  former 


MISSOURI.  161 

has  greatly  increased  within  the  last  two  or  three  years.1  Higher 
up,  a  few  miles  from  the  mouth  of  Fever  river,  is  Galena,  a  pros- 
perous town  in  the  lead  district,  with  about  3000  inhabitants. 
Numerous  steam-boats  are  constantly  arriving  at  and  departing 
from  this  place. 


STATE  OF  MISSOURI. 

This  state  is  bounded  north  by  Iowa  Territory ;  west  by  the 
Indian  Territory  ;  east  by  the  Mississippi  river,  which  separates 
it  from  Illinois,  Kentucky,  and  Tennessee ;  and  south  by  the 
state  of  Arkansas.  Its  length  is  about  280  miles,  and  medium 
breadth  230,  the  area  being  near  64,000  square  miles. 

Besides  the  great  rivers  Mississippi  and  Missouri,  which  bound 
it  on  the  east  and  west,  this  state  is  watered  by  various  others 
of  considerable  magnitude.  The  largest  are  the  Osage,  Grand, 
Salt,  Chariton,  Gasconade,  Maramec,  Big  Black,  and  St.  Francis. 

Much  of  the  surface  lying  south  of  the  Missouri  river,  and 
eastward  of  the  western  frontier,  is  a  high  prairie,  intersected  by 
numerous  rivers,  and  well  adapted  to  support  a  large  agricultural 
population.  Between  the  Osage  and  Missouri,  and  north  of  the 
latter,  the  country  is  undulating  and  agreeably  diversified ;  while 
in  the  south-east,  between  the  Big  Black  river  and  the  Mississippi, 
the  whole  tract,  with  the  exception  of  a  narrow  strip  on  the  bor- 
der of  the  latter,  is  a  low,  inundated  morass,  forming  a  portion 
of  the  great  swamp,  of  which  the  principal  part  is  in  the  state  of 
Arkansas. 

The  lands  bordering  on  the  Missouri  and  some  of  the  other 
rivers,  are  exceedingly  rich.  A  portion  of  the  state  is,  however, 
unfit  for  cultivation ;  but  this  part  of  it  is  rich  in  mineral  trea- 
sures. The  land  is  either  very  fertile  or  very  poor ;  it  is  either 
bottom  land  or  cliff,  either  prairie  or  barren :  there  is  very  little 
of  an  intermediate  quality.  The  climate  is  remarkably  serene  and 
temperate,  and  very  favourable  to  health. 

Missouri  is  admirably  adapted  for  a  grazing  country,  and  vast 
herds  of  cattle,  horses,  and  swine  are  raised:  beef,  pork,  tallow, 
hides,  and  live  stock,  constitute  important  articles  of  export.  In 
1838  the  value  of  horses  and  mules  sent  to  the  cotton-growing 
states,  was  150,000  dollars.  Cotton  is  raised  in  the  southern 
part  of  the  state,  but  not  in  considerable  quantities ;  tobacco  is 
more  extensively  grown,  and  hemp,  wheat,  Indian-corn,  and  the 
other  grains,  are  cultivated  with  success.  Indian-corn,  flour, 
lead,  furs,  buffalo-skins  and  tongues,  and  lumber,  constitute,  with 
the  articles  before  mentioned,  the  exports  of  Missouri. 

14*  a  isi 


162  NORTH   AMERICA. 

The  most  remarkable  feature  in  Missouri  is  its  lead-mines, 
which  are  estimated  to  cover  an  area  of  about  3000  square  miles. 
The  centre  of  the  lead-mine  district  is  about  70  miles  south-west 
from  St.  Louis,  and  the  principal  diggings  are  included  in  an 
extent  cf  30  miles  in  one  direction  by  15  in  another.  The  lead- 
ore  is  found  in  detached  masses,  and  not  in  veins.  The  business 
of  mining  is,  consequently,  very  uncertain.  About  7,000,000 
pounds  of  lead  are  annually  made.  In  this  region  are  likewise 
found  copper,  zinc,  manganese,  antimony,  calamine,  cobalt,  &c. 
These  lead-mines  were  wrought  by  the  French  100  years  ago. 

Numerous  shot-factories  are  established  along  the  high,  rocky 
bluffs  of  the  Mississippi,  which  renders  the  erection  of  towers 
unnecessary.  Iron  is  found  in  inexhaustible  quantities.  The 
Pilot  Knob,  600  feet  high,  and  the  Iron  Mountain,  350  feet  high, 
are  immense  masses  of  almost  pure  iron,  and  surpass  every  thing 
of  the  kind  found  in  any  other  part  of  the  world.  Coal  also 
abounds,  particularly  along  the  Missouri,  and  aluminous  and 
nitrous  earth,  marble,  salt-springs,  sulphuretted  and  thermal 
waters,  &c,  occur.  There  are  six  colleges  in  the  state.  In 
1839  the  legislature  made  liberal  provision  for  the  establishment 
of  common  schools.  The  Baptists  and  Methodists  are  the  most 
numerous  sects  ;  the  Presbyterians  and  Roman  Catholics  are  also 
pretty  numerous,  and  there  are  some  Episcopalians. 

POPULATION  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS. 

TOTAL.  SLAVES. 

1810  (including  Arkansas)    20,845 3,011 

1820 66,586 10,222 

1830 140,455 25,091 

1836 244,208 40,540 

1840 383,702 58,240 

Of  the  foregoing  population  of  1840,  there  were,  white  males, 
173,470;  white  females,  150,418  ;  deaf  and  dumb,  153;  blind, 
124.  Total,  whites,  323,888.  Free  coloured  persons,  1574; 
slaves,  58,240. 

St.  Louis  is  the  commercial  capital  of  Missouri,  and  the  largest 
town  west  of  the  Mississippi.  It  is  built  on  two  banks  :  the  first, 
not  much  raised  above  the  level  of  the  river,  contains  two  narrow 
streets  running  parallel  with  its  course  ;  and  the  second  or  higher 
bank,  which  spreads  out  into  a  wide  plain  in  the  rear,  comprises 
the  rest  of  the  city.  The  upper  part  is  well  laid  out  with  spacious 
and  regular  streets.  St.  Louis  was  founded  in  1764,  but  it  con- 
tinued "to  be  an  inconsiderable  village  while  the  country  remained 
in  the  hands  of  the  Spanish  and  French.  It  is  the  emporium  of 
the  Upper  Missouri  and  Mississippi,  and  is  increasing  rapidly  in 
importance.  The  population  is  now  chiefly  composed  of  Ameri- 
cans, but   there   are  many  French,  with  some  Germans   and 


ARKANSAS.  163 

Spaniards.  There  are  eight  Protestant  churches  and  a  Roman 
Catholic  cathedral.  In  the  vicinity  are  an  United  States'  arsenal 
and  Jefferson  barracks,  extensive  stone  buildings  with  accommo- 
dations for  600  or  700  men.  In  1830  it  contained  5852  inhabit- 
ants, and  in  1840,  24,585. 

St.  Charles,  20  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  and  the 
same  distance  north-west  from  St.  Louis,  is  a  pleasant  village, 
containing  2000  inhabitants,  of  whom  about  one-third  are  of 
French  descent ;  it  consists  of  one  long  street,  on  which  are  many 
handsome  buildings.  St.  Charles  was  for  a  number  of  years  the 
capital  of  the  state. 

Jefferson  city,  on  the  south  side  of  the  Missouri  river,  and  near 
the  centre  of  the  state,  is  the  capital  of  Missouri ;  it  contains  the 
state-house  and  a  penitentiary  :  its  site  is  not  a  fortunate  selection, 
and  it  has  not  in  consequence  prospered.  Higher  up  the  stream 
are  the  villages  of  Franklin,  Boonville,  Keytesville,  Lexington, 
and  Liberty. 

Herculaneum,  30  miles  below  St.  Louis,  is  a  small  town,  which 
contains  numerous  shot-works,  and  serves  as  one  of  the  ports  of 
the  lead  district.  St.  Genevieve  is  another  old  French  village, 
built  on  a  high  alluvial  bank  which  the  river  is  now  washing 
away.  Cape  Girardeau,  situated  on  a  high  bluff  in  the  midst  of 
a  rich  district,  is  the  depot  of  the  southern  part  of  the  state.  New 
Madrid  is  an  inconsiderable  village,  on  a  high  alluvial  bank, 
which,  like  that  of  St.  Genevieve,  has  been  mostly  carried  away 
by  the  river.  The  village  also  suffered  from  the  earthquake  of 
1811. 


STATE  OF  ARKANSAS. 

Arkansas  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Missouri ;  east  by  the 
Mississippi  river,  which  separates  it  from  Tennessee  and  the  state 
of  Mississippi ;  south  by  Louisiana,  and  west  by  the  Indian  terri- 
tory and  the  northern  part  of  Texas.  Its  length,  from  north  to 
south,  is  245  miles,  and  mean  breadth  about  212 ;  its  area  is 
55,000  square  miles. 

The  principal  river  is  the  Arkansas,  which  flows  down  from 
the  Rocky  mountains.  Its  course  is  nearly  through  the  centre 
of  the  state  from  west  to  east ;  and  it  affords  at  all  times  steam- 
boat navigation  to  Little  Rock,  300  miles  from  the  Mississippi, 
and  occasionally  to  Fort  Gibson,  nearly  350  miles  higher  up ; 
the  other  important  streams  are  the  Red  river,  (which  flows 
through  the  south-west  angle  of  the  state,)  St.  Francis,  White, 
and  Washita  rivers. 


164  NORTH   AMERICA. 

Arkansas  has  considerable  advantages  for  commerce ;  nearly 
every  part  of  it  has  a  direct  and  easy  communication  with  New 
Orleans,  the  great  emporium  of  trade  for  the  whole  Mississippi 
valley. 

The  surface  of  the  country  exhibits  much  variety.  In  the 
eastern  portion,  along  the  Mississippi  river,  it  is  level,  and  often 
overflown  by  that  noble  river  and  its  large  confluents,  which  have 
their  course  through  this  territory.  In  the  central  part  it  is  undu- 
lating and  broken,  and  in  the  western  section  it  is  traversed  by 
the  Ozark  mountains,  which  are  estimated  to  attain  an  altitude 
of  from  1500  to  2000  feet  above  the  ocean. 

The  soil  is  of  all  qualities,  from  the  most  productive  to  the 
most  sterile:  much  of  it  is  of  the  latter  description.  It  has,  how- 
ever, a  sufficient  amount  of  excellent  land  to  enable  it  to  become 
a  rich  and  populous  state. 

Of  the  products  of  Arkansas,  cotton  is  the  staple ;  corn  and 
sweet  potatoes  thrive  well ;  wheat,  and  other  small  grains,  have 
not  been  cultivated  to  a  great  extent ;  peaches  are  remarkably 
fine ;  apples  do  not  succeed,  except  on  the  elevated  parts  of  the 
state,  at  a  distance  from  the  Mississippi.  The  wild  fruits,  grapes, 
plums,  &c,  are  abundant. 

The  hot  or  warm  springs  are  among  the  most  interesting 
curiosities  of  the  country  ;  they  exist  in  great  numbers.  One  of 
them  emits  a  vast  quantity  of  water :  they  are  remarkably  limpid 
and  pure,  and  are  used  by  the  people  who  resort  there  for  health, 
for  culinary  purposes.  During  the  spring  floods  of  the  Washita, 
a  steam-boat  can  approach  within  30  miles  of  them. 

Arkansas  formed  a  part  of  Louisiana,  and  afterwards  of  Mis- 
souri Territory,  until  1819,  when  it  received  a  separate  territorial 
government,  and  in  1836  it  became  an  independent  state.  The 
legislature,  styled  the  General  Assembly,  consists  of  a  senate 
chosen  for  the  term  of  four  years,  and  a  house  of  representatives 
elected  biennially ;  the  general  assembly  meets  every  two  years. 
The  governor  holds  office  for  the  term  of  four  years.  The  superior 
judges  are  appointed  by  the  general  assembly,  those  of  the 
supreme  court  holding  office  for  eight,  and  those  of  the  circuit 
courts  for  four  years. 

Every  white  male  citizen  of  the  age  of  21  years,  who  has 
resided  within  the  state  during  the  six  months  preceding  the  elec- 
tion, has  the  right  of  suffrage.  Votes  are  given  viva  voce.  In 
the  prosecution  of  slaves  for  ci'imes,  it  is  provided  that  they  shall 
have  an  impartial  jury,  and  slaves  convicted  of  a  capital  offence 
shall  suffer  the  same  degree  of  punishment  as  free  whites,  and  no 
other. 


WISCONSIN.  165 


POPULATION  AT  DIFFERENT  PERIODS. 

TOTAL.  SLAVES. 

In  1800 1,052 

1820 14,273 1,617 

1830 30,388 4,.r>76 

1840 97,574 19,935 

This  state  being  as  yet  but  thinly  settled,  the  towns  are  few  in 
number,  and  of  limited  population.  The  capital,  Little  Rock,  is 
situated  on  the  Arkansas  river,  about  300  miles  from  the  Missis- 
sippi. The  site  is  on  a  high  rocky  bluff  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  river ;  some  of  the  other  settlements  are,  on  the  Arkansas, 
Lewisburg,  Scotia,  Ozark,  and  Van  Buren  ;  Fayetteville,  in  the 
north-west  corner  of  the  state ;  Batesville,  on  White  river ; 
Greenock,  Helena,  and  Columbia,  on  the  Mississippi ;  Washing- 
ton, in  the  south-west  part  of  the  state  near  to,  and  Fulton  on, 
Red  river :  these  are  the  most  important,  but  they  are  all  as  yet 
mere  villages. 


WISCONSIN  TERRITORY. 


This  territory  was  erected  into  a  separate  government  in  1836, 
and  for  two  years  afterwards  included  Iowa  within  its  limits.  It 
stretches  from  the  Mississippi  river  on  the  west  to  Lake  Michigan 
on  the  east,  and  from  the  northern  boundary  of  the  Union  to  the 
states  of  Missouri  and  Illinois  on  the  south ;  it  is  in  length  near 
600  miles,  and  from  100  to  200  miles  in  breadth;  containing 
probably  an  area  of  100,000  square  miles.  Population,  30,749. 
A  large  portion  of  this  territory  is  but  imperfectly  known,  and  is 
for  the  most  part  still  in  the  occupancy  of  the  Indians. 

It  is  settled  by  a  white  population  only  along  a  part  of  its 
southern  and  eastern  border :  its  great  mineral  resources,  fertile 
soil,  and  fine  climate,  are,  however,  attracting  such  numerous 
emigrants,  that  it  is  probable  a  few  years  only  will  elapse  before 
those  portions  of  the  territory  most  suitable  for  settlement  will 
number  many  towns  and  villages,  and  be  covered  with  a  dense 
population. 

The  principal  rivers  are  the  Mississippi  and  its  tributaries,  the 
St.  Croix,  Chippeway,  Wisconsin,  Rock  river,  &c. ;  the  St.  Louis, 
Montreal,  and  other  streams,  flowing  into  Lake  Superior ;  the 
Mennomonie  and  Fox  rivers  of  Green  Bay,  and  others.  In  some 
parts  of  the  territory  the  soil  is  very  fertile,  and  produces  large 
crops  of  the  various  grains  common  to  this  section  of  the  Union. 
In   the  vicinity  of  Lake   Michigan   the  water-courses,  ponds, 

Q.*  185 


166  NORTH    AMERICA. 

and   marshes,  are  covered  with  wild  rice,  which  constitutes  a 
considerable  part  of  the  food  of  the  Indians. 

Wisconsin  is  rich  in  minerals :  lead  is  found  in  great  abun- 
dance, and  also  copper  and  iron.  The  lead  region  comprises  a 
portion  of  the  richest  lead  deposits  in  the  world :  it  extends  on 
the  east  side  of  the  Mississippi  from  the  Wisconsin  to  the  Rock 
river,  and  on  the  west  it  connects  with  the  lead  region  of  Iowa. 
Lead  mining  is  carried  on  extensively,  and  that  of  copper  is 
about  to  be  commenced. 

Fort  Winnebago,  a  United  States'  garrison,  stands  at  the  port- 
age between  the  Wisconsin  and  Fox  rivers ;  the  waters  of  the 
two  streams  here  approach  so  close  to  each  other,  and  are  so 
nearly  on  a  level,  that  boats,  in  wet  seasons,  have  been  floated 
from  one  to  the  other.  A  canal  is  in  progress  of  construction 
for  the  purpose  of  connecting  these  rivers.  Steam-boats  have 
ascended  the  Wisconsin  to  the  portage.  The  route  in  this  direc- 
tion between  the  lakes  and  the  Mississippi  river,  will  no  doubt 
attain  great  commercial  importance.  In  the  vicinity  of  Green 
Bay  are  the  thriving  villages  of  Green  Bay,  Navarino,  and  De 
Pierre.  The  former  has  a  fine  harbour,  and  is  already  a  place 
of  considerable  business :  it  contains  a  bank,  a  land-office,  a 
number  of  stores,  and  several  hotels. 

The  principal  settlements  on  the  Mississippi,  are  Prairie  du 
Chien,  Cassville,  &c. ;  the  former  is  about  five  miles  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Wisconsin  river  :  it  is  situated  on  a  beautiful  prairie, 
and  has  been  long  inhabited,  mostly  by  French  traders  and  their 
descendants,  half-breeds,  &c.  Cassville,  some  distance  south  of 
the  Wisconsin  river,  is  a  small  town,  and  but  lately  settled,  as 
are  also  Belmont,  Mineral  Point,  and  Dodgeville :  these  are  at 
various  distances  east  of  the  Mississippi,  and  between  it  and  Lake 
Michigan  :  they  are  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  rich  mining  district, 
and  will  gradually  improve  as  the  country  around  them  fills  up 
with  population. 

Madison  city,  the  capital  of  Wisconsin  territory,  was  laid  out 
a  short  time  ago :  it  contains  already  some  public  buildings,  two 
hotels,  and  40  or  50  dwellings.  Milwaukie,  on  the  west  side  of 
Lake  Michigan,  is  the  most  important  town  in  the  territory ;  it 
contains  3000  inhabitants,  several  churches,  hotels,  a  bank,  and 
a  number  of  stores  :  it  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade,  and  has 
the  best  harbour  on  the  west  side  of  the  lake  between  Chicago 
and  Green  Bay.  A  rail-road  is  about  to  be  constructed  from  this 
place,  westward  through  the  city  of  the  Four  Lakes,  Dodgeville, 
Mineral  Point,and  Belmont,  to  the  Mississippi  river.  A  canal  to 
Rock  River  has  been  lately  commenced  from  this  city. 

The  aborigines  in  Wisconsin  are  the  Chippeways,  Mennomo- 


IOWA.  167 

nies,  and  Stockbridge  Indians :  the  latter,  from  New  York,  are 
settled  in  the  vicinity  of  Green  Bay.  Among  these  tribes,  the 
American  Board  of  Foreign  Missions  has  a  number  of  missiona- 
ries in  different  parts  of  the  territory. 


IOWA  TERRITORY. 


Iowa  is  a  recently  formed  territory  :  it  comprises  the  country 
lying  between  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri  rivers  on  the  one 
hand,  and  the  state  of  Missouri  and  British  America  on  the  other  ; 
its  greatest  length  is  not  less  than  800  miles,  varying  in  breadth 
from  250  to  400,  with  an  area  of  at  least  200,000  square  miles. 
Like  the  adjoining  territory  of  Wisconsin,  but  a  small  part  has 
been  explored  by  white  men,  and  much  of  it  is  still  inhabited  by 
the  Indians. 

From  the  Des  Moines  to  a  short  distance  above  the  Wisconsin 
river,  it  has  been  laid  off  in  counties,  and  is  more  or  less  settled. 
This  region  constitutes  the  south-eastern  section  of  the  territory, 
and  is  a  beautiful,  fertile,  healthful  country,  interspersed  with 
timber  land  and  prairie,  and  abounding  in  springs  and  mill- 
streams. 

The  principal  rivers  of  Iowa?  besides  the  Mississippi  and  Mis- 
souri, which  bound  it  on  the  east  and  west,  are  the  St.  Peter's, 
Upper  Iowa,  Turkey,  Iowa,  and  Des  Moines :  these  all  flow  into 
the  Mississippi ;  the  James,  Sioux,  and  Little  Sioux,  are  the 
chief  tributaries  of  the  Missouri  in  this  region.  The  Red  river 
of  the  north,  whose  head  branches  interlock  with  the  St.  Peter's, 
flows  into  the  British  Territory,  and  empties  into  Lake  Winni- 
peg :  a  short  portage  of  a  mile  in  length,  between  the  waters  of 
this  stream  and  the  St.  Peter's,  is  the  only  impediment  to  a  con- 
tinuous navigation  from  Hudson's  Bay  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

The  products  of  the  soil  are  the  same  as  those  of  the  neigh- 
bouring states :  wheat,  corn,  rye,  oats,  and  potatoes,  all  grow 
with  great  luxuriance,  and  are  of  excellent  quality.  The  mine- 
ral region  of  Iowa  appears  to  be  connected  with  that  of  Wiscon- 
sin, and  is  equally  rich  in  metal.  The  limits  of  the  country 
containing  the  leadore  are  unknown,  but  it  probably  extends  for 
hundreds  of  miles  towards,  and  into  the  state  of  Missouri ; 
besides  lead,  copper,  iron,  and  coal  are  known  to  abound. 

Few  portions  of  the  United  States  have  excited  so  much  atten- 
tion as  Iowa ;  it  is  settling  more  rapidly  than  any  other  part  of 
the  western  country  with  enterprising  and  industrious  inhabitants, 
and  will  in  a  very  few  years  have  a  sufficient  population  to  enti- 
tle it  to  rank  as  a  state.     A  number  of  towns  have  been  laid 


168  NORTH   AMERICA. 

out ;  they  are  all  yet  small :  a  few  of  those,  however,  situated 
on  the  Mississippi,  are  increasing  very  fast. 

Burlington  is  the  capital  of  the  territory,  but  Dubuque  is  the 
largest  town.  The  latter  contains  a  land-office,  three  churches, 
a  lyceum,  a  bank,  four  hotels,  a  printing-office,  and  a  number 
of  stores :  the  inhabitants  are  probably  about  3000  in  number. 
This  place  is  in  the  centre  of  the  mining  district  of  Iowa,  and 
the  finest  lead-mines  in  the  Unnited  States  are  those  worked  in 
its  vicinity.  Peru,  Davenport,  Bloomington,  Fort  Madison,  and 
Montrose,  are  the  other  principal  towns.  The  site  of  Iowa  city, 
on  the  river  of  the  same  name,  intended  for  the  capital  of  the 
territory,  has  been  lately  surveyed. 

Iowa  was  erected  into  a  separate  territorial  government  by  act 
of  congress  in  June  1838;  the  commencement  of  the  govern- 
ment dated  from  the  4th  of  the  succeeding  July.  According  to 
a  census  taken  in  1838,  the  population  was  upwards  of  22,000  ; 
in  1840,  it  amounted  to  42,924.  The  principal  Indian  tribes  in 
this  territory  are  the  Sioux,  Winnebagoes,  Sacs,  Foxes,  and  Assi- 
niboins,  with  a  few  Chippeways,  Ottawas,  and  Pottawatomies, 
numbering  perhaps  altogether  from  30,000  to  35,000  individuals. 

Fort  Snelling,  a  few  miles  below  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  and 
situated  on  the  point  of  land  between  the  Mississippi  and  St. 
Peter's  rivers,  is  the  most  remote  military  post  in  this  quarter, 
occupied  by  the  troops  of  the  United  States.  The  village  of 
Pembina,  the  southernmost  settlement  of  lord  Selkirk's  colony, 
falls  within  the  limits  of  Iowa ;  it  is  situated  on  the  banks  of  the 
Red  river  of  Lake  Winnipeg.  The  inhabitants  are  mostly 
Scotch  highlanders  and  Swiss. 


INDIAN  TERRITORY. 


The  Indian  territory  is  the  country  assigned  by  the  govern- 
ment of  the  United  States  for  the  future  residence  of  the  Indians, 
many  of  whom  have  emigrated  from  the  south-eastern  parts  of 
the  Union,  and  numbers  are  preparing  to  take  up  their  residence 
in  it.  It  is  about  600  miles  in  extent  from  north  to  south  in  the 
eastern,  and  in  the  western  part  about  300 ;  and  from  east  to 
west,  immediately  beyond  Arkansas,  it  is  about  320 ;  but,  west- 
ward of  the  central  and  northern  parts  of  Missouri,  it  is  full  600 
miles  in  breadth.  It  contains  an  area  of  about  240,000  square 
miles. 

A  belt  of  about  200  miles  of  the  most  eastern  part  of  this 
region,  and  adjoining  the  states  of  Arkansas  and  Missouri,  is 


INDIAN    TERRITORY.  169 

favourable  for  settlement :  the  soil  is  affirmed  to  be  generally  very- 
fertile,  and  it  is  watered  by  numerous  rivers,  creeks,  and  rivu- 
lets, none  of  which,  however,  are  suitable  for  navigation. 

The  chief  streams  are  the  Red,  Arkansas,  Kanzas,  and  Platte 
rivers,  with  their  numerous  tributaries :  they  flow  in  an  eastern 
direction  from  the  Rocky  Mountains  towards  the  Missouri  and 
Mississippi  rivers,  of  which  they  are  all  branches.  The  country, 
in  its  general  character,  is  high  and  undulating,  rather  level  than 
hilly ;  though  some  portions,  particularly  in  the  south-eastern 
parts,  are  entitled  to  the  latter  appellation,  where  it  is  traversed 
by  several  low  ranges  of  the  Ozark  Mountains,  here  termed  the 
Kiameche  hills. 

The  atmosphere  is  salubrious,  and  the  climate  remarkably 
pleasant ;  resembling  in  those  respects  the  country  inhabited  by 
the  chief  part  of  the  Indians  who  have  emigrated  from  the  east  of 
the  Mississippi.  Here  are  coal,  some  lead  and  iron  ore,  and  many 
saline  springs,  suitable  for  manufacturing  salt.  The  most  serious 
defect  is  a  want  of  timber,  but  it  is  one  which  time  will  remedy, 
as  has  been  demonstrated  by  the  rapid  growth  of  timber  in  prai- 
rie countries  which  have  been  settled ;  where  the  grazing  of 
stock,  by  diminishing  the  quantity  of  grass,  renders  the  annual 
fires  less  destructive  to  the  growth  of  wood :  the  prairies  are 
covered  with  grass,  much  of  which  is  of  suitable  length  for  the 
scythe. 

This  country  will  produce,  it  is  believed,  all  the  varieties  of 
grain,  vegetables,  and  agricultural  products,  which  are  raised  in 
the  states  of  the  same  latitude  east  of  the  Mississippi.  It  is  also 
admirably  adapted  for  the  raising  of  domestic  animals  of  every 
description. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  present  year,  (1840,)  the  population  of 
the  Indian  territory  amounted  to  95,000  Indians,  75,000  of  whom 
have  emigrated  from  the  states  east  of  the  Mississippi  river.  The 
remainder  appertain  to  tribes  long  resident  in  this  region. 

There  are  also  25,000  Indians,  of  various  tribes,  now  east  of 
the  Mississippi  river,  under  treaty  stipulations  to  remove  west  of 
that  stream :  many  of  them  are  making  preparations  for  this 
purpose;  and  the  whole,  no  doubtvwill,  in  a  few  years,  be  per- 
manently settled  in  the  territory  assigned  them. 

The  Choctaws,  Creeks,  Cherokees,  Chickasaws,  and  Shawnees, 
are  the  most  advanced  towards  civilization  of  any  of  the  Indian 
tribes  in  this  quarter.  They  have  generally  good  houses,  well- 
fenced  and  well-tilled  fields,  and  own  horses  and  cattle  to  a  con- 
siderable extent :  they  have  also  native  mechanics  and  merchants 
among  them,  of  whom  some  of  the  Cherokees  have  from  5000  to 
15,000  dollars  capital ;  and  one  of  them  owns  a  steam-boat,  which 

15  189 


170  NORTH    AMERICA. 

runs  between  their  country  and  New  Orleans.  They  likewise 
carry  on  spinning  and  weaving,  and  have  some  saw  and  grist- 
mills and  cotton-gins.  They  have  also  adopted  an  improved 
system  of  government :  the  Choctaws  and  Creeks,  in  particular, 
have  a  written  constitution;  and  the  former  have  introduced  the 
trial  by  jury. 

There  are  several  United  States'  military  posts  within  the  lim- 
its of  the  Indian  Territory ;  these  are  all  garrisoned,  and  have 
been  erected  chiefly  with  a  view  to  prevent  mutual  encroach- 
ments on  each  other  by  the  whites  and  Indians,  and  to  preserve 
peace  among  the  tribes  themselves. 

Fort  Towson  is  in  the  Choctaw  country,  about  six  miles  north 
of  Red  river,  and  50  miles  west  of  the  western  boundary  of  the 
state  of  Arkansas :  it  was  erected  in  the  year  1831.  Fort  Gib- 
son, established  in  1823,  is  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Neosho  river, 
directly  above  where  it  empties  into  the  Arkansas :  it  is  in  the 
Cherokee  country,  and  is  the  head  of  steam-boat  navigation  in 
this  quarter.  The  emigrant  Indians  generally  come  up  the  Ar- 
kansas river  to  this  place. 

Fort  Coffee,  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Arkansas  river,  about 
12  miles  from  the  west  boundary  of  the  state  of  Arkansas,  was 
established  in  1825.  Fort  Leavenworth  is  on  the  west  bank  of 
the  Missouri,  about  25  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Kanzas 
river.  It  was  established  in  1827,  and  is  the  head  quarters  of 
the  United  States'  dragoons.  This  fort  is  within  the  limits  of  the 
territory  assigned  to  the  Kickapoos. 

Several  of  the  missionary  societies  of  the  United  States  have 
exerted  themselves  in  a  most  praiseworthy  and  laudable  manner 
in  teaching  many  of  the  Indian  tribes  the  principles  of  the  Chris- 
tian religion,  with  reading,  writing,  and  the  arts  of  civilized  life  ; 
and  to  their  efforts  chiefly  may  be  ascribed  the  important  changes 
that  have  taken  place  in  the  habits  and  condition  of  most  of  the 
emigrant  Indians. 

The  American  board  of  foreign  missions  has  stations  and 
missionaries  among  the  Choctaws,  Creeks,  and  Cherokees  ;  and 
the  Baptists  and  Methodists  have  stations,  &c.  among  the  Choc- 
taws, Cherokees,  Ottawas,  and  Shawnees. 

The  Creeks,  Peorias,  and  Kanzas,  have  each  a  Methodist,  and 
the  Ottawas  have  a  Baptist  mission  within  their  bounds.  At  the 
Shawnee  station,  under  the  care  of  the  Baptists,  there  is  a  print- 
ing-press, from  which  have  been  issued  school-books,  and  collec- 
tions of  sacred  poetry,  in  several  Indian  languages ;  a  monthly 
journal  is  also  printed  here  in  the  Shawnee  language,  and  the 
valuable  Annual  Register  of  Mr.  M'Coy  is  likewise  from  this 
press. 

190 


WESTERN   STATES. 


Grizzly  Bear. 


Buffalo,  or  Bison. 


Rocky  Mountain  Sheep. 


Rocky  Mountain  Goat. 


American  Elk. 


NORTH   AMERICA. 


Great  Californian  Vulture.  —  Found  in 
California  and  the  Oregon  Territory. 


Wild  Turkey. 


Indians  Hunting  the  Buffalo. 


White  Traders  bartering  their  goods  with  the  Indians  for  Furs. 


MISSOURI.  171 

The  Pawnees,  Osages,  Omahas,  Kanzas,  and  Otoes,  are  the 
principal  indigenous  tribes  in  this  region :  these  retain  their  ori- 
ginal savage  habits  of  life,  with  little  or  no  change.  They  hunt 
the  buffalo,  and  the  squaws  raise  Indian-corn,  beans,  and  pump- 
kins. In  the  desert  regions  farther  west,  are  the  roving  bands 
of  the  Comanches,  Kioways,  and  Pawnee  Picts.  They  are  skil- 
ful horsemen.  Their  arms  are  chiefly  the  bow  and  arrow,  lance, 
war-club,  and  buckler ;  and  their  habitations  are  moveable  skin 
lodges,  or  tents.  The  great  caravan  road  between  Missouri  and 
New  Mexico  crosses  this  region. 


MISSOURI  TERRITORY. 

This  territory  is  a  vast  wilderness,  thinly  inhabited  only  by 
different  tribes  of  Indians,  many  of  whom  appear  to  have  no 
fixed  residence,  but  follow  the  migrations  of  the  game  from  place 
to  place.  Missouri  territory  extends  from  north  to  south  about 
520  miles,  and  from  east  to  west  600  miles ;  and  contains  an 
area  of  probably  280,000  square  miles :  it  is  bounded  on  the 
north  by  the  British  possessions,  south  by  the  Indian  territory, 
east  by  Iowa,  and  west  by  the  territory  of  Oregon. 

The  greater  part  of  this  region  has  been  but  partially  explored, 
and  is  imperfectly  known.  It  appears  to  consist  of  vast  prairies, 
fringed  along  the  lower  courses  of  the  rivers  with  patches  of 
wood  land.  Countless  droves  of  buffalo,  elk,  deer,  and  wild 
horses,  range  and  graze  upon  these  extensive  prairies  :  the  latter 
being  caught  and  subdued  by  the  Indians,  afford  them  the  means 
of  transporting  themselves  and  families  from  place  to  place ; 
while  the  buffalo  and  other  animals  furnish  them  with  the  chief 
part  of  their  food  and  clothing. 

To  the  west  of  these  plains,  the  Rocky  Mountains  rise  up  in 
an  abrupt  manner,  presenting  a  steep  front  with  numerous  frown- 
ing rocky  precipices,  and  having  many  summits  covered  with 
perpetual  snow. 

The  Missouri  is  the  principal  stream  ;  which,  with  its  tributa- 
ries, drains  the  whole  of  this  region.  The  Yellow-Stone  is  the 
largest  of  its  upper  tributaries,  and  is  by  some  even  considered 
the  main  stream :  it  rises  among  the  Rocky  Mountains,  in  the 
south-west  part  of  this  section,  and  flowing  generally  a  north-east 
course,  empties  into  the  Missouri,  3000  miles  from  the  ocean. 

The  Great  Falls  of  the  Missouri  present  a  spectacle  of  uncom- 
mon grandeur.  They  consist  of  a  succession  of  cataracts,  the 
whole  descent  of  which  is  350  {bet.  The  place  where  the  Mis- 
it  193 


172  NORTH   AMERICA. 

souri  passes  from  the  mountains,  called  the  Gates  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  displays  a  stupendous  work  of  nature.  The  river  is 
compressed  to  the  width  of  only  450  feet,  between  perpendicular 
rocks  1200  feet  in  height. 

The  principal  aboriginal  races  are  the  Pawnees,  the  various 
tribes  of  Sioux,  Riccarees,  Blackfeet  Indians,  &c. :  most  of  them 
appear  to  be  nomadic  in  their  habits,  and,  being  in  possession  of 
an  ample  store  of  horses,  roam  from  place  to  place  in  quest  of 
buffalo  and  other  game. 

For  several  years  past,  the  small-pox  has  fearfully  desolated 
this  region:  some  of  the  most  powerful  of  the  native  tribes  have 
lost,  by  its  ravages,  thousands  of  their  population,  and  have  be- 
come almost  extinct.  The  Mandan  nation  were  in  a  short  time 
reduced  from  1600  to  31  individuals :  these  have  incorporated 
themselves  with  the  Riccarees,  and  their  race  has  ceased  to  exist 
as  a  distinct  tribe. 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 

The  country  extending  westward  from  the  Rocky  Mountains 
to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  lying  between  42°  and  54°  40'  of  north 
latitude,  is  generally  known  by  the  name  of  the  Oregon  Terri- 
tory, and  is  claimed  both  by  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain. 
On  the  north  and  the  east,  as  far  south  as  the  49°,  it  is  bounded 
by  the  southern  part  of  the  British  possessions,  and  southward 
of  the  49°  by  the  Missouri  Territory ;  south  by  the  Republic  of 
Mexico ;  and  west  by  the  Pacific  Ocean  :  it  is  in  length  about 
880  miles,  with  an  average  breadth  of  550  :  area,  about  450,000 
square  miles. 

The  surface  of  the  country,  so  far  as  it  is  known,  is  broken 
and  mountainous :  it  is  traversed  on  its  eastern  boundary  by  the 
vast  ridges  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  many  of  the  elevated  peaks 
of  which  rise  above  the  limits  of  perpetual  snow.  Westward  of 
the  mountains  the  country  descends  by  regular  slopes,  in  form 
of  immense  terraces  or  descending  plains,  disposed  regularly  one 
below  the  other.  At  the  distance  of  from  120  to  160  miles  from 
the  Pacific,  and  nearly  parallel  with  the  coast,  a  range  of  moun- 
tains extends,  which  has  as  yet  received  no  general  designation : 
the  highest  peaks  have  been  named  Mount  Jefferson,  Mount 
Hood,  Mount  St.  Helen's,  Mount  Regnier,  &c. 

The  only  rivers  explored  in  this  territory  are  the  Columbia  or 
Oregon,  and  its  branches.  This  noble  stream  has  its  head 
waters  near  those  of  the  Missouri,  and  collects  its  tribute  for  a 
wide  extent  along  the  western  ridges  of  the  Rocky  Mountains : 

194 


OREGON.  173 

its  principal  tributaries  are  Lewis',  Clark's  or  Flat  Head,  M'Gil- 
livray's,  and  Okinagan  rivers.  The  Columbia  and  its  branches 
abound  in  the  finest  salmon,  which  seem,  with  sturgeon,  to  con- 
stitute the  chief  articles  of  food  of  the  natives  west  of  the  moun- 
tains. 

Seals  and  other  aquatic  animals  are  taken  in  great  numbers, 
and  the  skins  shipped  to  China ;  thus  constituting  one  of  the 
chief  articles  of  trade  from  this  part  of  the  world.  The  country 
bordering  on  the  Columbia  and  its  branches,  is  represented  as 
having  a  good  soil,  and  is  covered  with  heavy  timber,  consisting 
chiefly  of  various  species  of  fir ;  many  of  the  trees  being  of 
enormous  height. 

To  this  region  the  United  States  have  acquired  a  title  by  the 
Louisiana  treaty,  by  the  discovery  of  the  principal  river,  and  by 
interior  exploration.  It  is,  however,  contested  by  Great  Britain, 
who  claims,  not  that  the  title  is  in  her,  but  that  the  region  is  un- 
appropriated, and  open  to  the  first  comer.  By  a  convention  con- 
cluded in  1828,  it  was  agreed  between  the  United  States  and 
Great  Britain  that  neither  government  should  take  possession  of 
it,  or  occupy  it,  to  the  exclusion  of  the  other,  during  the  period 
of  the  convention,  which  either  party  might  renounce  upon 
giving  twelve  months'  notice. 

This  territory  has  been  so  named  in  the  congressional  discus- 
sions that  have  taken  place  in  reference  to  the  country.  It  was 
first  discovered  by  the  Spaniards,  who,  however,  did  not  pene- 
trate into  the  interior.  In  1791,  Captain  Gray,  of  the  ship  Co- 
lumbia, of  Boston,  entered  the  great  river  of  this  region,  and 
from  him  it  received  the  name  of  his  ship. 

In  1805,  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clark  were  sent  out  by  the  United 
States'  government,  for  the  express  purpose  of  exploring  this 
country :  they  navigated  the  Missouri  to  its  source,  and  crossing 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  descended  the  Columbia  River  to  the  Pa- 
cific Ocean,  and  spent  the  winter  on  its  shores :  they  returned 
by  the  same  river  to  the  mountains,  and  most  of  the  exact  in- 
formation that  we  have  of  the  country  is  from  them. 

The  question  of  settling  Oregon  Territory  permanently,  has 
been  more  than  once  debated  in  Congress :  were  such  settlement 
authorized,  and  rendered  secure  by  the  requisite  military  estab- 
lishments, there  can  be  no  doubt  that  it  would  receive  large 
accessions  of  settlers.  It  may  be  considered  as  at  present  actu- 
ally in  possession  of  Great  Britain.  The  traders  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company  have  established  forts  at  various  points,  and  exer- 
cise an  almost  unlimited  control  over  the  natives.  Forts  Van- 
couver, Wallah  Wallah,  and  Colville  are  the  chief  trading  sta- 
tions.    Fort  George  is  on  the  site  of  Astoria,  a  station  settled 

15*  '95 


174  NORTH   AMERICA. 

many  years  ago  by  traders  in  the  employ  of  John  Jacob  Astor, 
Esq.,  of  New  York. 

At  Fort  Vancouver  there  is  a  village  containing  50  houses, 
with  800  inhabitants.  These  comprise  the  labourers  and  ser- 
vants attached  to  the  forts,  with  their  Indian  wives  and  slaves. 
From  this  place  a  direct  trade  is  carried  on  with  the  Sandwich 
Islands  and  Great  Britain,  which  employs  several  vessels  besides 
a  steam-boat.  There  are  two  small  white  settlements  on  the 
Willamette,  a  branch  of  the  Columbia  river,  where  the  Method- 
ists have  a  missionary  station,  and  the  American  Board  of 
Foreign  Missions  has  recently  established  two  stations,  and 
employs  nine  missionaries  and  teachers  on  this  side  of  the 
mountains. 

Many  portions  of  this  territory  are  well  adapted  for  agricul- 
tural purposes.  At  some  of  the  trading  establishments  belonging 
to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  farming  has  been  commenced  on 
a  small  scale,  and  found  to  succeed  well.  At  Forts  Vancouver 
and  Colville,  wheat,  barley  and  potatoes  of  excellent  quality  are 
raised,  and  apples,  pears,  peaches,  and  all  the  usual  kinds  of 
garden  vegetables,  grow  in  abundance ;  and  at  the  settlements 
on  the  Willamette,  farming  is  carried  on  successfully. 

The  inhabitants  of  this  territory  are  reckoned  to  amount  to 
about  80,000,  and  consist  of  a  number  of  small  Indian  tribes, 
with  the  white  traders  and  hunters  attached  to  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  and  the  few  missionaries  and  settlers  on  the  Wil- 
lamette. The  chief  tribes  are  the  Flat  Heads,  Flat  Bows,  Pointed 
Hearts,  Pierced  Noses,  and  also  the  Shoshonees  or  Snake 
Indians,  who  are  the  most  numerous  and  powerful  in  this  region, 
being  estimated  at  about  15,000  in  number. 

The  first  emigration  from  the  Atlantic  states  for  the  purpose  of 
occupying  any  part  of  Oregon  territory,  was  made  in  1832. 
Since  that  period,  the  number  of  American  citizens  residing  be- 
yond the  Rocky  Mountains  has  considerably  increased ;  and 
measures  are  now  in  progress  for  conveying  settlers  and  supplies 
thither,  in  ships  to  be  dispatched  at  stated  periods  from  our  prin- 
cipal sea-ports. 

To  render  these  regions  easily  accessible  to  emigrants,  by  an 
overland  journey,  will  be,  however,  the  most  effectual  mode  of 
increasing  the  number  of  the  white  inhabitants ;  and  the  establish- 
ment of  a  few  military  posts,  along  the  best  routes  leading  west- 
ward from  the  state  of  Missouri,  would  greatly  facilitate  this 
object,  and  enable  the  settlements  on  the  Columbia  river  and  its 
branches,  to  acquire,  probably  in  a  short  time,  that  degree  of 
extent  and  stability,  which  will  render  nugatory  all  claims,  on  the 
part  of  other  nations,  to  the  possession  of  these  extensive  territories. 


TEXAS.  175 


REPUBLIC  OF   TEXAS. 

The  Republic  of  Texas,  which  was,  until  lately,  an  integral 
portion  of  Mexico,  formed,  in  conjunction  with  Coahuila,  one  of 
the  States  of  that  confederacy.  To  the  people  of  the  United 
States  this  infant  republic  is  peculiarly  interesting,  from  the  cir- 
cumstances attending  its  struggle  with  the  parent  State,  the  gal- 
lantry displayed  by  its  citizens  in  the  field,  its  immediate  conti- 
guity to  the  south-western  parts  of  our  territory,  and  also  on 
account  of  Anglo-Americans  forming  the  bulk  of  its  rapidly 
increasing  population. 

Previous  to  1821,  the  only  places  occupied  by  whites  were  the 
Spanish  posts  of  San  Antonio  de  Bexar,  Bahia,  or  Goliad,  and 
Nacogdoches,  comprising  in  all  about  3000  inhabitants.  In  con- 
sequence of  the  encouragement  held  out  to  settlers  by  the  Mexi- 
can government,  there  was  a  great  influx  of  emigrants  into  the 
territory  from  the  United  States,  many  of  whom  carried  with 
them  their  slaves.  In  1832,  the  people  of  Texas  formed  for 
themselves  a  separate  State  constitution,  and  endeavoured  to 
obtain  from  the  Mexican  Congress  a  sanction  of  their  proceed- 
ings, and  an  admission  into  the  confederacy  as  an  independent 
State.  Meanwhile,  however,  the  mutual  discontents  and  suspi- 
cions of  the  colonists  and  government  were  increased  to  such  a 
degree,  that  resort  was  had  to  arms. 

Texas  was  invaded  by  a  large  Mexican  force,  headed  by  Santa 
Anna,  the  President,  in  person.  At  first  the  overwhelming  nu- 
merical superiority  of  the  invaders  gave  them  some  advantages, 
and  induced  them  to  exhibit  a  remarkable  ferocity  towards 
their  prisoners,  several  hundreds  of  whom  were  massacred  in 
cold  blood.  But  this  state  of  things  was  soon  reversed  ;  and  at 
the  battle  of  San  Jacinto  the  Mexican  army  was  utterly  and 
irrecoverably  routed,  leaving  their  President  a  prisoner  in  the 
hands  of  the  Texans. 

In  March,  1836,  the  people  of  Texas,  by  a  Convention  held 
at  Washington  on  the  Brazos,  declared  themselves  free  and  inde- 
pendent, and  have  since  that  time  formed  a  constitution  and  go- 
vernment, modelled  on  that  of  the  United  States,  and  elected  a 
chief  magistrate,  together  with  all  the  requisite  officials  and 
appointments  of  a  sovereign  and  independent  power. 

A  soil  of  great  fertility,  and  a  geographical  position  highly 
favourable  to  commercial  intercourse  with  the  United  States  and 
the  rest  of  the  world,  are  advantages  which  doubtless  will,  at  no 
distant  period,  render  Texas  opulent  and  powerful.  The  face  of 
the  country  is  generally  level,  and  a  great  portion  of  it  consists 

R*  197 


176  NORTH   AMERICA. 

of  vast  prairies,  the  soil  of  which  is  a  deep  black  mould,  mixed 
with  sand :  the  bottom  lands  on  many  of  the  rivers,  are  of  a 
rich  red  texture,  of  great  depth,  and  well  timbered. 

Most  of  the  productions  of  tropical  climates  grow  here  in 
great  perfection,  and  the  cotton  is  equal  to  the  finest  produced  in 
the  United  States :  the  other  products  are  sugar,  tobacco,  rice, 
indigo,  wheat,  use.  This  region  is  one  of  the  finest  stock  coun- 
tries in  the  world  :  cattle  are  raised  in  great  abundance,  and  with 
but  little  trouble. 

Texas  is  enclosed  by  the  Nueces,  the  Sabine,  the  Red  River, 
and  the  great  eastern  ridge  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Within 
the  limits  above  described,  it  has  an  area  of  about  160,000  square 
miles,  consisting  chiefly  of  a  level  or  slightly  undulating  surface. 
The  country  along  the  coast  is  low,  but  free  from  swamps,  and 
composed  of  good  arable  prairie,  interspersed  with  well-wooded 
river  bottoms  and  fine  pasture  lands.  Until  the  late  emigrations 
from  the  United  States,  this  section  was  filled  with  immense 
droves  of  mustangs,  or  wild  horses,  and  wild  cattle ;  but  their 
numbers  are  now  considerably  lessened.  In  the  south-west,  the 
country  is  elevated,  being  traversed  by  a  range  of  mountains, 
extending  northward  from  the  head  waters  of  the  Nueces,  and 
westward  of  the  sources  of  the  Brazos,  Colorado,  &c.  To  the 
west  and  north  are  vast  prairies,  in  which  immense  herds  of 
buffalo  supply  the  mounted  Comanches  with  abundance  of  game. 
In  the  north-east,  the  country  is  undulating  and  better  wooded. 

The  rivers  are  numerous,  but  the  majority  of  them  are  not,  in 
their  present  state,  of  much  importance  for  navigation,  being  in 
the  dry  season  extremely  low,  and  during  the  floods  a  good  deal 
impeded  with  floating  timber.  The  Sabine,  Neches,  and  Trinidad 
rivers  are  all  navigable  to  a  certain  extent  during  a  part  of  the 
year.  The  river  Brazos  is  considered  the  best  navigable  stream 
in  Texas :  vessels  drawing  six  feet  of  water  can  navigate  it  to 
Brazoria ;  and  steam-boats  of  light  draught,  to  San  Felipe  de 
Austin,  90  miles  higher.  At  its  mouth  the  river  Brazos  is  200 
yards  wide,  and  continues  about  the  same  to  San  Felipe.  The 
Colorado  river  is  not  much  inferior  to  the  Brazos,  but  its  naviga- 
tion is  at  present  impeded  by  a  raft  of  drift-wood  about  ten  miles 
from  its  mouth. 

The  climate  of  Texas  is  mild  and  agreeable,  and,  as  the 
country  is  free  from  swamps,  and  the  wooded  tracts  are  quite 
open  and  destitute  of  underwood,  is  more  healthful  than  the  cor- 
responding sections  of  the  United  States.  The  seasons  are  two  ; 
the  dry,  from  April  to  September,  and  the  wet,  which  prevails 
during  the  rest  of  the  year :  the  cold  is  pretty  severe  for  a  short 
time  in  December  and  January. 


MEXICO.  177 

The  towns  are  mostly  small ;  the  principal  of  them  are  San 
Augustine  and  Nacogdoches,  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  republic, 
and  both  situated  on  streams  flowing  into  the  Neches ;  San  Fe- 
lipe de  Austin,  Columbia,  Brazoria,  and  Velasco,  on  the  Brazos 
river ;  Matagorda,  on  and  near  the  mouth  of  the  Colorado ; 
together  with  San  Antonio  de  Bexar,  and  Goliad,  on  the  San 
Antonio.  The  city  of  Houston  was  recently  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment. Austin,  situated  a  considerable  distance  up  the  Colorado, 
has  been  lately  chosen  as  the  future  capital  of  Texas.  The 
city  of  Galveston  was  not  long  since  founded  on  the  island  of 
that  name,  with  the  expectation  of  its  becoming  an  important 
commercial  mart ;  but  the  site  is  low,  and  liable  to  overflow  by 
high  tides  when  the  sea  is  driven  in  by  storms. 

The  commerce  of  this  youthful  state  is  already  sufficient  to 
employ  to  advantage  a  number  of  regular  trading-vessels  be- 
tween her  principal  sea-ports  and  New  Orleans,  New  York,  and 
other  important  marts  in  the  United  States  ;  and  an  intercourse 
has  been  commenced  with  the  chief  commercial  nations  of 
Europe. 

The  population  of  Texas  is  estimated  at  from  200,000  to 
300,000,  of  whom  at  least  two-thirds  are  Americans  from  the 
United  States  ;  the  remainder  are  negro  slaves,  Mexicans,  and 
Indians  of  various  tribes.  The  army  is  about  2500  in  number ; 
ardent,  filled  with  enthusiasm  for  the  cause  of  Texas,  and  highly 
efficient  as  a  military  body.  The  main  pecuniary  dependence 
of  this  state  is  upon  the  great  body  of  her  rich  and  fertile  lands, 
for  the  survey  and  sale  of  which,  by  a  method  similar  to  that 
of  the  United  States,  measures  have  been  adopted. 


MEXICO. 

Mexico  is  an  extensive  territory,  situated  chiefly  in  the 
southern  part  of  North  America.  It  is  washed  on  the  east  by 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  on  the  west  by  the  Pacific  Ocean. 
Originally  a  native  empire,  afterwards  the  principal  of  the  Span- 
ish viceroyalties,  it  is  now  a  great  independent  republic.  Its 
length  may  be  stated  at  about  2500  miles ;  the  breadth  varies 
from  130  to  1200  miles,  and  its  whole  surface  contains  an  area 
of  about  1,500,000  square  miles. 

Much  of  the  surface  of  Mexico  is  elevated,  composing  part 
of  that  vast  ridge  which  runs  along  the  whole  continent  of 
America,  parallel  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  which  in  the  south 
is  called  the  Andes,  and  in  the  north  the  Rocky  Mountains.     In 


178  NORTH    AMERICA. 

the  middle  part  the  chain  presents  a  broad  table-land,  from  6000 
to  8000  feet  in  height.  On  this  elevated  plain,  detached  moun- 
tains occur,  of  which  the  summits  rise  into  the  regions  of  per- 
petual snow,  on  a  level  almost  with  the  mightiest  of  the  Andes. 
Such  are  the  volcanic  peaks  of  Orizava,  Popocatepetl,  and 
Toluca. 

The  rivers  of  Mexico  are  not  very  numerous,  nor,  in  general, 
of  considerable  magnitude.  The  principal  is  the  Rio  del  Norte, 
which,  rising  in  the  northern  part  of  the  country,  flows,  by  a 
south-easterly  course  of  about  1800  miles,  into  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico.  The  Sacramento  and  Buenaventura  are  rivers  of  Upper 
California,  of  which,  however,  our  knowledge  is  extremely  slight. 
The  Colorado  of  the  West  is  a  large  river,  but  its  course  is 
through  countries  thinly  peopled  and  little  known.  It  falls  into 
the  Gulf  of  California,  after  receiving  the  Gila,  a  considerable 
stream. 

The  lakes  of  this  country  are  numerous,  but  none  of  them 
appear  to  be  of  great  extent.  The  valley  of  Mexico  contains 
five  small  lakes,  on  which,  floating  gardens,  made  by  a  sort  of 
raft  covered  with  a  layer  of  rich  earth,  were  once  numerous ; 
but  they  are  now  mostly  fixed,  though  some  are  still  moveable. 
The  only  well-known  lake,  on  a  considerable  scale,  is  that  of 
Chapala,  which  is  estimated  to  contain  an  area  of  about  1300 
square  miles.  The  Tide  lakes  in  Upper  California,  and  some 
others,  near  the  northern  boundary  of  Mexico,  are  said  to  be 
considerable  bodies  of  water,  as  yet  they  are  but  little  known. 

As  an  agricultural  country,  Mexico  has  been  celebrated  for 
the  vast  variety  of  productions  which  can  be  raised  in  its  soil, 
according  to  the  different  degrees  of  elevation  at  which  cultiva- 
tion is  carried  on.  It  is  divided  into  warm  lands,  temperate 
lands,  and  cold  lands.  The  warm  or  low  lands  of  the  coast, 
though  capable  of  yielding  in  profusion  all  the  productions  of 
the  torrid  zone,  are  subject  to  so  deadly  a  pestilence,  that  even 
the  natives  prefer  to  inhabit  a"  poorer  soil  on  the  higher  grounds ; 
and  Europeans,  except  the  few  fixed  by  commercial  pursuits, 
pass  through  it  in  trembling  haste,  as  if  death  pursued  them. 
The  cold  or  high  lands,  again,  are  nearly  devoid  of  vegetation,  ex- 
hibiting on  a  few  scattered  spots  the  plants  of  the  north.  It  is 
only  on  the  "  temperate  lands"  that  the  real  and  effective  vege- 
tation exists ;  and  there  the  finest  plants  of  the  most  genial  tem- 
perate climates  are  produced  in  higher  perfection  than  in  most 
other  parts  of  the  known  world. 

The  wheat  of  Mexico  excels  that  of  most  other  countries,  both 
in  quality  and  abundance,  provided  that  by  nature  or  art  it  has 
been  supplied  during  growth  with  sufficient  moisture.     Indian- 


MEXICO. 


Volcano  of  Popocatepetl. 

Popocatepetl,  or  the  Mountain  of  Smoke,  is  17,735  feet  in  height.  It  is  the  most  elevated 
of  the  Mexican  Cordilleras,  and  is  covered  on  the  summit  with  perpetual  snow.  This  Volcano 
is  situated  sixty  miles  south-east  of  the  city  of  Mexico. 


Volcano  of  Orizava. 

Orizava,  or  the  Star  Mountain,  is  elevated  17,388  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.    It  is  situated 
about  seventy  miles  west  of  Vera  Cruz. 


Volcano  of  Jorullo. 

The  Volcano  of  Jorullo,  1700  feet  high,  was  raised  suddenly  on  the  night  of  the  28th  Septem- 
ber, 1759,  by  internal  force.  It  is  surrounded  by  five  other  hills,  and  numerous  small  ones,  al! 
of  which  constantly  emit  smoke.  This  volcano  is  situated  170  miles  nearly  west  of  the  city  of 
Mexico. 

201 


MEXICO. 


Cascade  of  Regla. 


Mahogany. 


The  well-known  Mahogany  grows  in  Honduras,  the  eastern  part  of  Mexico.  This  tree  ac- 
quires a  large  size,  being  sometimes  more  than  five  feet  in  diameter;  and  a  single  tree  has 
been  known  to  produce  timber  to  the  value  of  5000  dollars. 


Maguey  Plant. 


Hand  Plant. 


The  American  Aloe,  or  Agave,  or  Maguey  plant,  13  extensively  cultivated  in  Mexico.  It 
yields  a  drink  called  pulque,  that  forms  the  principal  beverage  of  the  country.  This  is  obtained 
by  catting  oflf  the  flower  stalk  at  the  moment  of  flowering  :  a  cavity  is  then  fo  med  in  the 
lower  part  of  the  plant,  into  which  the  juice  that  would  have  gone  to  nourish  the  blossom  is 
deposited,  and  continues  to  run  for  three  or  four  months.  The  leave*  of  the  maguey  can  be 
made  into  paper  ;  its  fibres  yield  thread  ;  and  its  thorns  are  used  as  pins.  The  pulque  yields, 
oa  distillation,  a  spiritous  liquor  called  Mexical. 

202 


MEXICO.  179 

corn,  the  proper  grain  of  America,  is  still  more  generally  culti- 
vated, and  forms  the  standing  food  of  the  people.  Its  harvests 
are  equally  profuse.  Barley  and  rye  grow  on  the  colder  grounds  ; 
the  first  forming  the  chief  food  of  horses.  Farther  down  grows 
the  banana,  which,  though  the  proper  food  of  the  torrid  zone, 
grows  so  high,  that  Humboldt  calculates  50,000  square  miles 
may  be  fit  for  it.  Of  all  vegetables  it  yields  the  greatest  propor- 
tion of  aliment  with  the  least  culture.  The  manioc  root,  under 
the  same  climate,  can  be  made  to  produce  abundance  of  palata- 
ble and  wholesome  food. 

The  Mexicans  set  much  value  also  on  the  maguey,  or  American 
aloe,  which  is  extensively  cultivated.  Each  plant  yields  annu- 
ally about  150  quarts  of  a  sweet  juice,  easily  convertible  into 
pulque,  the  favourite  fermented  liquor  of  the  people.  Sugar, 
coffee,  and  cotton,  are  all  produced  of  excellent  quality,  but  only 
for  internal  use ;  and  cacao,  though  an  universal  beverage,  is 
procured  by  importation.  Cochineal  is  almost  the  only  article 
collected  extensively  for  export.  The  culture  is  laborious,  and 
has  diminished  of  late,  but  the  price  has  not  increased,  substitutes 
being  employed.  There  is  also  indigo,  but  it  is  inferior  to  that 
of  Guatimala.  Vanilla,  the  flavouring  material  of  the  chocolate, 
is  obtained  in  the  forests  of  Oaxaca  and  Vera  Cruz ;  and  ex 
ported  to  the  amount  of  40,000  or  50,000  dollars,  annually. 

Manufactures  in  Mexico  are  in  a  very  rude  state.  There  are, 
however,  considerable  fabrics  of  coarse  red  earthenware  and 
glass ;  also,  manufactures  of  coarse  woollens  and  cottons. 
Working  in  gold  and  silver  has  been  a  favourite  occupation. 
Services  of  plate,  worth  30,000  or  40,000  dollars,  have  been 
manufactured  at  Mexico,  which,  for  elegance  and  fine  workman- 
ship, may  rival  the  best  of  the  kind  in  Europe.  The  coaches 
of  Mexico  have  long  been  celebrated  both  for  good  construction 
and  beauty  ;  it  being  the  particular  ambition  of  all,  who  possibly 
can,  to  have  their  coach. 

The  commerce  of  Mexico  does  not  correspond  with  its  great 
fame  for  wealth.  The  exports  of  the  precious  metals  form  the 
principal  article ;  next  to  this  is  cochineal,  to  which  may  be 
added,  sugar,  indigo,  vanilla,  sarsaparilla,  jalap,  logwood,  and 
pimento.  The  exports  at  Vera  Cruz,  in  1824,  amounted  to  12 
million  dollars.  The  imports,  consisting  chiefly  of  manufactured 
goods,  wine,  brandy,  and  metals,  were  at  the  same  time  nearly 
5  million  dollars.  Under  the  Spanish  government,  Vera  Cruz 
and  Acapulco  had  a  monopoly  of  the  trade  of  Mexico ;  but 
since  the  revolution  a  considerable  amount  has  centred  in  other 
ports,  of  which  the  chief  are,  in  the  northern  part  of  the  gulf, 
Tampico  and  Matamoras ;    Campeachy  and   Tabasco  in  the 


180  NORTH    AMERICA. 

south ;  San  Bias  and  Mazatlan,  on  the  western  coast ,  and 
Guayamas  in  the  Gulf  of  California. 

The  mines  of  gold  and  silver,  however,  are  the  grand  objects 
which  have  connected  the  idea  of  unbounded  wealth  and  roman- 
tic splendour  with  the  name  of  Mexico.  Peru  furnishes  gold  in 
greater  abundance  ;  but  Mexico,  since  the  first  discovery,  has 
produced  more  silver  than  all  the  rest  of  the  world  united. 
There  are  3000  mines  in  Mexico ;  some  of  them,  however, 
are  now  unproductive,  and  even  ruinous ;  but  adventurers  have 
been  encouraged  to  begin,  and  to  persevere  while  a  particle  of 
their  capital  remained,  by  the  enormous  profits  which  have,  in  a 
few  instances,  been  realized. 

The  produce  of  the  mines  continued  increasing  till  the  com- 
mencement of  the  late  revolution,  at  which  time  the  sum  total 
was  about  25  million  dollars,  annually.  During  the  convulsions 
of  that  period,  the  amount  was  greatly  reduced,  the  water  having, 
in  many  instances,  being  allowed  to  rush  in,  the  machinery  de- 
stroyed, and  the  workmen  dispersed.  The  annual  average  pro- 
duce at  present  is  not  more  than  12  million  dollars. 

Attempts  have  been  made  to  bring  the  aid  of  British  capital 
and  science  to  the  mining  operations  in  Mexico ;  but  owing  to  the 
peculiar  habits  of  the  people,  and  the  prevailing  disorders  in  the 
country,  such  endeavours  have  hitherto  proved  futile. 

The  mint  of  Mexico  is  a  prodigious  establishment,  in  which 
all  the  processes  are  carried  on  with  the  greatest  activity.  It  is 
capable  of  stamping  100,000  dollars  within  the  hour.  So  rapid 
an  operation  is  seldom  required ;  yet  there  have  passed  through 
it  probably  upwards  of  three  thousand  million  dollars. 

Owing  to  the  unsettled  state  of  the  country,  nothing  certain 
can  be  given  as  to  the  military  force  of  the  republic.  The  army 
is  not  large,  and  recent  events  have  proved  that  it  is  not  very 
efficient.  The  want  of  harbours  must  ever  prevent  Mexico 
from  being  a  great  maritime  power.  Little  confidence  can  be 
placed  in  any  statements  relative  to  the  finances.  The  annual 
revenue  is  stated  to  be  about  15,000,000  dollars. 

The  territory  of  the  republic,  consisting  of  the  old  vice-royal- 
ty of  New  Spain,  of  the  captaincy-general  of  Yucatan,  and  of 
the  commandancy-general  of  the  Internal  Provinces,  was  divided 
by  the  constitution  of  1824  into  nineteen  states,  four  territories, 
and  the  Federal  District :  this  arrangement  was  subverted  by 
the  decree  of  1835,  which  provided  for  a  new  division  of  the 
country  into  departments,  of  which  no  special  account  has  ever 
been  published. 

The  population  of  the  Mexican  states  has  been  estimated,  by 
different  authors,  at  from  5  to  10  millions,  but  appears  to  bo 
generally  reckoned  at  near  8  millions. 


MEXICO. 


Cactus,  or  Nopal  plant. 

The  Cactus,  or  Nopal,  is  cultivated  in  Mexico  and  Guatimala,  for  the  purpose  of  raisins  the 
Cochineal  insect.  When  with  young,  the  females  are  placed  on  different  plants,  on  which  the 
young  insects  feed.  In  about  four  months  the  latter  are  full  grown,  and  are  brushed  from  the 
leaves  with  a  squirrel's  or  deer's  tail ;  they  are  then  deprived  of  life  by  being  thrown  into  boil- 
ing water,  placed  in  heated  ovens  or  in  vapour  baths.  Cochineal,  to  the  value  of  two  and  a 
half  million  dollars,  was  raised  in  one  season  in  the  State  of  Oaxaca. 


Lineated  Bittern. 


Mexican  Bittern. 


American  Bittern. 


King  Bird. 


NORTH    AMERICA. 


Montezuma's  Watch,  or  the  Mexican  Calendar. 

This  curious  basaltic  stone,  now  in  the  cathedral  of  Mexico,  is  cut  into  figures  that  are  sup- 
posed to  denote  the  Mexican  Calendar,  or  division  of  time.  It  weighs  twenty-four  tons  ;  and 
its  age  is  conjectured  to  be  a  considerable  period  anterior  to  that  of  the  discovery  of  America. 


Mexican  Hieroglyphical  Paintings. 

The  Mexican  manuscripts,  or  hieroglyphics,  that  still  remain,  are  supposed  to  be  historical 
records  of  the  ancient  Empire  of  Mexico.  They  are  painted  in  a  peculiar  manner,  some  on 
skins,  some  on  cloth,  and  some  on  the  leaves  of  the  Agave,  or  Maguey  plant. 

206 


MEXICO. 


181 


Sfatre.  Population  Capital.  States.  Population.        Capital. 

Tabasco* 75.000  . .  V.  Hermosa.  i  Chihuahua 190,000  . .  Chihuahua. 

Vera  Cruz 150,000  . .  Xalapa.  |  San  Luis  Potosi 300,000  . .  S.  L.  Potoei. 

Oaxaca   660,000  ..  Oaxaca.  Tamaulipas 150,000 ..  Aguayo. 

La  Puebla   900,000  .  •  La  Puebla.        New  Leon  100,000  . .  Monterey. 

Mexico   1,500,000  ..  Tlalpan  I  Coahuila 60,000  ..  Monclova. 

dueretaro 100,000  . .  Queretaro.      I  Sonora  and  Sinaloa  .  300,000  .  .  Sinaloa. 

Federal  District  200,000  .  .  Mexico.  Yucatan* 570,000  .  .  Merida. 

Michoacan 460,000  ..  Valladolid.      I  Chi  a  pa  92,000  ..  Chiapa. 

Jalisco 870,000  ..  Guadalaxara.  |  Territoryof  N.Mexico* 60,000  .-  Santa  Fe. 

Guanaxuato   . .  500,000  . .  Guanaxuato.  I  Territory  of  Californias  50,000  . .  Monterey. 

Zacatecas 200,000  . .  Zacatecas.       I  Territory  of  Colima  . .    10,000  .    Colima. 

Durango 150,000  ..  Durango.         I  Territory  of  T'ascala     aO.OOO  . .  Tlascala. 

There  are  three  classes  of  inhabitants  in  Mexico  :  the  Whites, 
or  Creoles,  the  Indians,  and  the  mixed  races.  These  were  all  once 
as  distinct  from  each  other  as  if  they  had  belonged  to  different  na- 
tions ;  but  the  revolution  has  placed  all  classes  and  complexions  on 
an  equal  footing.  The  European  Spaniards,  called  Chapetones, 
are  now  nearly  expelled  from  Mexico.  They  formerly  held  all 
the  offices,  and  acted  with  much  pride  and  arrogance. 

The  Creoles,  or  Whites,  born  in  America,  even  when  they 
were  depressed  beneath  the  preponderance  of  the  Europeans, 
formed  a  privileged  class,  in  comparison  with  other  natives. 
They  are  fond  of  splendour,  and  delight  to  ride  on  horses  richly 
caparisoned  ;  and  many  are  in  the  possession  of  ampie  fortunes. 
The  entire  number  of  those  denominated  whites,  in  Mexico,  is 
about  1,500,000,  of  whom  all,  except  the  small  number  of  Eu- 
ropeans yet  in  the  country,  are  Creoles.  Very  few  Of  the  latter, 
however,  are  free  from  a  mixture  of  Indian  blood. 

The  Indians,  descendants  of  the  original  possessors  of  Mexico, 
still  survive,  to  the  supposed  amount  of  almost  4,000,000,  and  are, 
consequently,  nearly  three  times  as  numerous  as  the  white  race. 
They  bear  the  general  features  of  those  aborigines  who  have 
been  found  in  all  parts  of  North  and  South  America.  They 
have  the  same  copper  colour,  the  flat  and  smooth  hair,  small 
beard,  squat,  body,  long  eye,  and  prominent  cheek-bones.  They 
share,  with  the  rest  of  their  races,  an  exemption  from  almost 
every  species  of  deformity. 

The  mixed  castes  form  a  very  numerous  part  of  the  popula- 
tion of  this  country,  being  estimated  at  about  2,500,000.  They 
are  either  Mulattoes,  descended  from  a  mixture  of  the  White 
with  the  Negro ;  Zamboes,  from  the  Negro  and  Indian  ;  or 
Mestizoes,  from  a  mixture  of  the  White  with  the  Indian.  The 
latter,  in  consequence  of  the  small  number  of  Negroes  intro- 
duced into  Mexico,  compose  seven-eighths  of  this  class.  To 
be  white  was  formerly  in  Mexico  a  badge  of  rank,  and  almost  a 
title  of  nobility.  When  a  Mexican  considered  himself  slighted 
by  another,  he  would  ask,  "  Am  I  not  as  white  as  yourself?" 

*  The  states  of  New  Mexico,  Tabasco,  and  Yucatan,  have  revolted  from  the  Mexican  confede- 
racy, and  formed  separate  republics.  Their  stability,  however,  as  independent  governments,  is 
rather  doubtful. 

16  207 


182  NORTH   AMERICA. 

The  Catholic  religion  was  introduced  into  Mexico  at  the  time  of 
the  conquest,  with  a  body  of  clergy,  both  secular  and  regular. 
The  church  establishment  now  consists  of  the  Archbishop  of 
Mexico,  and  the  nine  bishops  under  him.  Those  with  the  inferior 
clergy  do  not  exceed  10,000  ;  or,  including  every  person  con- 
nected with  the  church,  13,000  or  14,000.  A  number  of  the 
lower  order  of  priests,  especially  in  the  Indian  villages,  are  very 
poor,  their  income  not  exceeding  100  dollars  a  year.  The  in- 
fluence and  l'evenue  of  the  church,  also,  have  considerably  di- 
minished during  the  revolution. 

Though  the  sciences  of  mining,  geometry,  architecture,  and 
astronomy,  have  received  some  attention  in  Mexico,  yet  the 
great  body  of  the  people  are  deplorably  ignorant.  This  is 
owing  to  the  illiberal  policy  of  the  Spanish  government,  which 
confided  all  civil,  military,  and  ecclesiastical  dignities  only  to 
Europeans,  and  discouraged  the  education  of  those  classes  which 
now  compose  the  population  of  the  republic.  Since  the  revolu- 
tion, the  country  has  been  too  much  disturbed  to  allow  the  cure 
of  this  disorder,  yet  steps  have  already  been  taken  in  the  differ- 
ent states  towards  providing  means  for  general  education. 

The  amusements  are  chiefly  those  of  old  Spain :  bull-fights, 
and  religious  processions.  The  theatre  is  still  far  inferior  to 
that  of  the  mother  country. 

At  the  time  of  the  discovery  of  America,  Mexico  formed  the 
most  powerful  of  the  native  empires.  It  was  inhabited  by  a 
people  called  Aztecs,  who  had  made  some  advances  towards 
civilization,  but  were  ignorant  of  the  use  of  fire-arms.  This 
empire  was  conquered  by  Fernando  Cortez,  a  Spaniard,  in  1519, 
and  continued  for  near  300  years  the  most  important  colony  be- 
longing to  Spain.  In  the  year  1810  the  revolution  began,  and 
after  various  conflicts  with  the  European  Spaniards,  the  inde- 
pendence of  Mexico  was  declared  in  1821.  The  following  year, 
Iturbide,  a  military  chief,  caused  himself  to  be  declared  Em- 
peror, but  he  was  soon  afterwards  dethroned  and  banished ;  and 
in  1824  a  constitution  was  adopted  on  the  plan  of  that  of  the 
United  States.  In  1835,  by  a  decree  of  the  Congress,  the  state 
Legislatures  were  suppressed,  and  the  government  changed  from 
a  Federal  to  a  Central  Republic. 

Mexico  was  long  considered  the  largest  city  in  America ;  but 
it  is  now  surpassed  by  New  York  and  Philadelphia.  It  is-  un- 
doubtedly one  of  the  finest  cities  built  by  Europeans  in  either 
hemisphere :  with  the  exception  of  St.  Petersburg,  Berlin,  and 
Philadelphia,  and  some  quarters  of  Westminster,  there  does 
not  exist  a  place  of  the  same  extent  which  can  be  compared  to 
the  capital  of  Mexico,  for  the  uniform  level  of  the  ground  on 


MEXICO. 


Mexican  Gentlemen. 
Among  the  upper  class  of  Mexican  Creoles,  an  ostentatious  mode  of  living,  and  an  extrava- 
gant love  of  gaming,  are  predominant ;  they  often  employ  in  their  furniture,  clothing,  and  the 
trappings  of  their  hoises,  rich  ornaments  of  various  kinds  to  a  lavish  extent. 


Mexican  Indians. 


Mexican  Indians. 


Mexico  and  Guatimala  are  the  only  parts  of  America  in  which  the  aborigines  have  survived 
the  process  of  civilization  to  any  extent.  In  those  countries,  including  the  pure  and  mixed 
classes  of  Indians,  they  form  considerably  more  than  one-half  the  population,  and  are  believed 
to  be  on  the  increase.  They  are  a  hardy  long-lived  race,  and  individuals  often  attain  to  100 
years,  yet  seldom  or  never  turn  grey-haired.  These  people  are  chiefly  employed  in  cultivating 
the  soil,  carrying  heavy  burdens,  and  other  laborious  occupations.  Some  of  them  evince  con- 
siderable aptitude  for  painting,  carving,  and  music  ;  and  all  are  fond  of  flowers,  an  attachment 
remarked  as  early  as  the  days  of  Cortez.  An  extravagant  love  of  pulque,  the  principal  inebri- 
ating liquor  of  the  country,  is  their  besetting  sin. 


Pyramid  of  Cholula. 
The  Pyramid  of  Cholula  is  the  most  celebrated  of  the  ancient  Mexican  monuments.    It  is 
built  in  alternate  layers  of  brick  and  clay  :  has  three  stories  of  equal  height ;  and  appears  to 
have  been  constructed  exactly  in  the  direction  of  the  four  cardinal  points.    On  its  summit  a 
chapel  has  been  erected,  where  mass  is  daily  celebrated. 

S*  209 


MEXICO. 


City  of  Mexico. 


Puebla  de  log  Angelos. 


Vera  Cruz. 


The  Pyramids  of  Teotihuacan  consist  of  a  great  pyramid,  elevated  220  feet,  surrounded  by 
numerous  smaller  ones,  each  about  thirty  feet  high,  arranged  in  broad  streets. 

210 


MEXICO.  183 

which  it  stands,  for  the  regularity  and  breadth  of  the  streets, 
and  the  extent  of  the  squares  and  public  places.  The  architec- 
ture is  often  of  a  very  pure  style,  and  there  are  even  edifices  of 
a  very  beautiful  structure.  The  palace  of  the  late  viceroys,  the 
cathedral,  several  of  the  convents,  and  some  private  residences, 
are  of  great  extent  and  magnificence ;  yet,  upon  the  whole,  it  is 
rather  the  arrangement,  regularity,  and  general  effect  of  the 
city,  which  render  it  so  striking. 

This  city  lies  in  a  large  valley,  60  miles  in  length  by  40  in 
breadth,  which  has  the  volcanic  summits  of  Popocatepetl  and 
Iztaccihuatl  on  the  south,  and  contains  five  small  and  beautiful 
lakes.  -  This  great  basin,  called  the  Basin  of  Mexico,  is  in  no 
part  less  than  6000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Most  of 
the  streets  are  handsomely  paved,  lighted,  and  cleansed.  The 
markets  are  abundantly  supplied  with  animal  and  vegetable 
productions,  brought  by  crowds  of  canoes  along  the  lake  of 
Chalco,  and  the  canal  leading  to  it. 

It  is  a  great  disadvantage  to  Mexico,  however,  that  it  stands 
nearly  on  a  level  with  the  surrounding  lake  ;  which,  in  seasons 
of  heavy  rains,  overwhelms  it  with  destructive  inundations. 
The  construction  of  a  desague,  or  canal,  to  carry  off  the  waters 
of  the  lake  Zumpango,  and  of  the  principal  river  by  which  it  is 
fed,  has,  since  1629,  prevented  any  very  desolating  flood.  The 
desague  cost  five  million  dollars,  and  is  one  of  the  most  stupen- 
dous hydraulic  works  ever  executed.  Were  it  filled  with  water, 
the  largest  vessels  of  war  might  pass  by  it  through  the  range  of 
mountains  which  bound  the  plain  of  Mexico. 

Acapulco,  on  the  west  coast,  is  one  of  the  most  magnificent 
harbours  in  the  world,  seeming  as  if  it  were  excavated  by  art 
out  of  a  vast  circuit  of  granite  rocks,  which  shut  out  all  view  of 
the  sea.  Yet  while  Vera  Cruz,  with  its  wretched  anchorage 
amid  sand-banks,  annually  received  from  400  to  500  vessels, 
that  of  Acapulco  scarcely  received  10,  even  in  the  time  of  the 
Manilla  galleon,  the  discontinuance  of  which  reduced  it  to  a  state 
of  insignificance.  It  is  said,  however,  of  late,  to  have  consider- 
ably revived  ;  and  its  customs,  after  falling  so  low  as  10,000  dol- 
lars, had  risen,  in  1826,  to  400,000  dollars. 

La  Puebla,  the  capital  of  the  state  of  La  Puebla,  is  a  hand- 
some and  large  city.  It  is  entirely  Spanish,  having  been  founded 
since  the  conquest.  The  houses  are  large  and  lofty,  the  walls 
often  covered  with  paintings,  while  the  roof  is  ornamented  with 
glazed  tiles.  The  cathedral  is  a  vast  pile,  with  little  external 
ornament :  but  the  interior  is  rich  beyond  description.  The 
high  altar  is  composed  of  the  most  beautiful  marble  and  precious 
stones ;  its  numerous  and  lofty  columns,  with  plinths  and  capitals 


184  NORTH   AMERICA 

of  burnished  gold,  its  statues  and  other  ornaments,  have  an  un- 
equalled effect.  In  manufactures  it  takes  the  lead  of  other 
Mexican  cities  :  those  of  woollen  have  declined  ;  but  those  of 
earthenware  and  glass  are  still  flourishing.  The  population  is 
estimated  at  about  80,000. 

Cholula,  the  ancient  capital  of  a  great  independent  republic, 
has  declined  into  a  town,  containing  6000  souls.  The  pyramid 
of  Cholula  is  the  work  of  art  which,  next  to  the  pyramids  of 
Egypt,  approaches  nearest  in  magnitude  and  vastness  to  those 
of  nature.  It  is  not  nearly  so  high  as  the  greatest  of  the 
Egyptian  pyramids,  being  only  172  feet ;  but  the  length  is  nearly 
double;  1335  feet,  instead  of  728. 

Vera  Cruz,  in  which  centres  almost  all  the  trade  of  Mexico, 
is  well  and  handsomely  built,  and  its  red  and  white  cupolas, 
towers,  and  battlements,  have  a  splendid  effect  when  seen  from 
the  water.  The  streets  also  are  kept  extremely  neat  and  clean  ; 
yet  it  is  considered  the  most  disagreeable  of  all  places  of  resi- 
dence. This  arises  not  merely  from  the  pestilence  which  taints 
the  air ;  the  surrounding  country  is  covered  with  sand  blown 
into  hillocks,  which,  reflecting  the  rays  of  the  sun,  render  the 
heat  more  oppressive. 

This  place  appears  to  have  sensibly  declined  since  the  dissolu- 
tion of  the  ties  which  connected  Mexico  with  the  mother  country. 
The  population  is  about  7000.  The  castle  of  San  Juan  de  Ulloa, 
the  last  hold  of  Spain  in  the  New  World,  and  which  commands 
the  entrance  of  the  port,  has  been  long  thought  to  be  of  immense 
strength,  but  was,  notwithstanding,  lately  captured  with  com- 
parative ease  by  a  small  French  squadron. 

The  fine  calzada,  or  paved  road,  from  Vera  Cruz  into  the  in- 
terior, runs  up  to  the  handsome  town  of  Jalapa.  The  Puente 
del  Rey,  or  Royal  Bridge,  between  the  two  cities,  is  a  stupendous 
work  of  solid  masonry,  thrown  over  a  wild  and  steep  ravine. 
Jalapa  is  commodiously  situated  in  a  delightful  district,  about 
4000  feet  above  the  sea.  It  has  12,000  inhabitants,  and  was 
formerly  the  residence  of  the  rich  Spanish  merchants  of  Vera 
Cruz  during  the  sickly  season.  The  neighbourhood  is  finely 
wooded,  and  is  particularly  remarkable  for  the  medical  article 
jalap,  which  takes  its  name  from  the  city. 

On  the  coast,  to  the  southward,  are  the  ports  of  Alvarado  and 
Huasacualco,  the  former  of  which  became  the  principal  entrepot 
on  the  gulf,  during  the  occupation  of  San  Juan  de  Ulloa  by  the 
Spanish  forces ;  and  the  latter  derives  some  interest  from  its 
situation  at  the  termination  of  a  proposed  canal  from  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico  to  that  of  Tehuantepec. 

Queretaro,  the  capital  of  a  state  of  the  same  name,  is  one 


7JEXIC0.  185 

of  the  most  beautiful  and  delightfully  situated,  as  well  as  one  of 
the  most  industrious  and  wealthy  cities  of  Mexico.  The  streets 
all  cross  each  other  at  right  angles,  and  terminate  in  its  three 
principal  squares.  Its  aqueduct,  about  ten  miles  in  length,  with 
its  bold  and  lofty  arches,  and  its  splendid  churches  and  convents, 
give  the  city  an  air  of  magnificence.  The  convent  of  Santa 
Clara  is  more  than  two  miles  in  circuit.     Population,  40,000. 

Valladolid,  the  capital  of  the  state  of  Michoacan,  contains 
25,000  inhabitants :  it  is  delightfully  situated,  6300  feet  above 
the  sea,  where  snow  sometimes  falls.  There  are  several  mines 
in  the  vicinity,  but  none  of  first-rate  magnitude.  It  has  wide, 
clean  streets,  a  magnificent  cathedral,  and  a  handsome  plaza. 

Guanaxuato,  the  capital  of  the  state  of  the  same  name,  is 
situated  in  the  midst  of  a  rich  mining  district,  is  built  on  very 
uneven  ground,  and  the  streets  are  often  very  steep ;  but  the 
buildings  are  in  general  handsome,  and  some  of  the  churches 
are  very  fine ;  the  alhondiga,  or  public  granary,  an  immense 
quadrangular  edifice,  is  a  remarkable  object.  The  population 
of  the  city  and  neighbourhood  has  been  reduced  from  90,000  to 
about  two-thirds  of  that  number. 

Guadalaxara,  the  capital  of  Jalisco,  which  in  1798  was  esti- 
mated to  contain  19,500  inhabitants,  has  at  present  60,000.  It 
is  regularly  laid  out,  with  wide,  straight  streets,  and  contains 
many  handsome  churches  and  convents.  The  mountain  of 
Colima  in  this  state,  9000  feet  high,  throws  out  smoke  and  ashes, 
and  forms  the  western  extremity  of  the  volcanic  chain  which 
traverses  Mexico  from  east  to  west. 

San  Bias  is  situated  near  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Grande,  and 
during  a  certain  season  of  the  year,  it  is  extremely  unhealthy, 
and  at  that  time  the  rain  falls  in  such  torrents  that  no  roof  can 
exclude  it,  and  it  is  impossible  without  danger  to  go  out  into  the 
streets.  At  the  commencement  of  this  season,  therefore,  a  gen- 
eral migration  takes  place ;  and  the  population  is  reduced  in  a 
few  days  from  3000  to  150,  at  which  it  remains  stationary  until 
the  return  of  the  dry  season.  Tepic,  eighteen  leagues  from  San 
Bias,  is  a  beautiful  town,  in  the  midst  of  a  cultivated  plain,  and 
its  streets,  regularly  laid  out,  are  enlivened  by  rows  of  trees, 
gardens,  and  terraces.  Thither  the  people  of  San  Bias  remove 
during  the  sickly  season,  at  which  time  the  population  of  Tepic 
amounts  to  8000  or  10,000. 

Zacatecas,  the  capital  of  the  state  of  Zacatecas,  contains 
38,000  inhabitants.  The  mint,  which  is  the  second  in  point  of 
importance  in  Mexico,  employs  300  persons,  and  60,000  dollars 
have  been  coined  here  in  twenty-four  hours.  The  total  coinage 
in  five  years,  from  1821  to  1826,  was  upwards  of  17,500,000 

1  6  *  213 


186  NORTH    AMERICA. 

dollars.  Aguas  Calientes,  in  the  vicinity  of  Zacatecas,  derives 
its  name  from  its  warm  springs,  is  a  pretty  town,  in  a  fertile 
district,  and  with  a  delightful  climate.  The  inhabitants,  about 
20,000  in  number,  carry  on  some  manufactures.  Fresnillo, 
Sombrerete,  and  Pinos,  are  mining  towns  with  from  12,000  to 
16,000  inhabitants. 

Oaxaca,  the  capital  of  the  state  of  the  same  name,  called 
Antequera  at  the  time  of  the  conquest,  is  a  flourishing  place ;  in 
1792,  it  had  24,000  inhabitants,  and  although  it  suffered  severely 
during  the  revolution,  its  present  population  is  about  40,000. 
Tehuantepec,  its  only  port,  is  not  a  good  one ;  but  it  is  of  con- 
siderable value  as  a  channel  by  which  the  indigo  of  Guatimala 
is  conveyed  to  Europe. 

The  peninsula  of  Yucatan,  forms  the  eastern  extremity  of 
Mexico.  It  is  a  vast  plain,  only  intersected  by  a  chain  of  moun- 
tains, wh'ch  do  not  rise  above  4000  feet.  This  was  the  first 
part  of  Mexico  in  which  the  Spaniards  landed,  and,  though  it 
be  less  improved  than  the  interior,  they  found,  to  their  surprise, 
indications  that  civilization  was  in  a  more  advanced  state  here 
than  in  the  islands ;  stone  houses,  pyramidal  temples,  enclosed 
fields,  and  a  clothed  and  civilized  people.  Merida,  the  capital, 
is  a  small  town.  Campeachy,  also  a  small  town,  is,  however, 
a  fortified  place,  and  is  important  on  account  of  its  harbour, 
from  which  is  shipped  the  logwood  cut  in  the  vicinity.  Popula- 
tion, 6000. 

Chiapa  formed  the  most  northerly  district  of  Guatimala ;  but 
the  greater  part  of  it,  on  a  late  occasion,  separated  itself  from 
Guatimala,  and  united  with  Mexico.  The  soil  is  fertile,  and 
capable  of  yielding,  in  profusion,  tropical  fruits  and  grain. 
Though  low,  yet  it  is  free  from  damp,  and  not  unhealthful. 

Chiapa  of  the  Spaniards,  called  also  Ciudad  Real,  though 
ranking  as  the  capital,  is  now  only  a  small  place  of  4000  inhab- 
itants. Chiapa  of  the  Indians  is  larger,  and  carries  on  a  con- 
siderable trade. 

Near  Palenque  are  seen  the  remains  of  the  great  ancient  city 
of  Calhuacan.  Fourteen  large  buildings,  called  by  the  natives 
the  Stone  Houses,  remain  nearly  entire ;  and  for  three  or  four 
leagues  either  way,  the  fragments  of  the  other  fallen  buildings 
are  seen  extending  along  the  mountain.  They  are  of  a  rude 
and  massive  construction,  well  calculated  for  durability ;  and  the 
principal  apartments  are  adorned  with  numerous  figures  in  relief, 
representing  human  beings  of  strange  form,  and  variously  hab- 
ited and  adorned. 

Tampico,  near  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  the  same  name,  was 
founded  in  1824,  and  has  rapidly  increased  on  account  of  its 


MEXICO.  187 

commercial  advantages,  which  havedrawn  thither  theinhabitants 
of  Altamira,  once  a  place  of  some  importance.  Tampico  has 
now  about  5000  inhabitants,  but  it  sutlers  under  a  want  of  good 
water.  Further  north,  on  the  Santander,  is  the  port  of  Soto  la 
Marina,  with  some  trade ;  and  on  the  Del  Norte  is  Matamoras. 
The  latter  carries  on  a  considerable  commerce,  chiefly  with  the 
United  States.     Population,  5000. 

San  Luis  Potosi,  the  capital  of  the  state  of  the  same  name, 
is  one  of  the  most  important  inland  towns  in  Mexico,  being  the 
depot  of  the  trade  of  Tampico  with  the  northern  and  western 
parts  of  the  republic.  It  is  well  built,  and  contains  several 
convents  remarkable  for  their  extent,  a  mint,  a  college,  and 
numerous  churches.     Population,  40,000. 

Monterey,  the  capital  of  New  Leon,  and  Leona  Vicario,  the 
chief  town  of  Coahuila,  are  both  places  of  some  note.  The 
first  has  about  12,000  inhabitants. 

Durango,  the  capital  of  the  state  of  Durango,  is  a  well-built 
town,  with  a  mint,  in  which  the  silver  of  the  vicinity  is  coined. 
It  contains  25,000  inhabitants. 

Chihuahua,  the  capital  of  Chihuahua,  is  well-built,  and  con- 
tains some  costly  churches,  monasteries,  and  other  public  edi- 
fices ;  but  the  population  has  been  reduced  from  50,000  to  one- 
third  of  that  number.  The  rich  mines  of  Santa  Julalia,  in  its 
vicinity,  once  yielded  5,000,000  dollars  a  year.  In  the  western 
part  of  the  state  are  the  Casas  Grandes,  or  ruins  of  large  square 
buildings,  whose  sides  are  accurately  ranged  north  and  south : 
a  space  of  several  leagues  is  covered  with  these  remains,  con- 
sisting of  aqueducts  and  various  other  structures. 

Sonora  and  Sinaloa  embrace  a  vast  tract  lying  along  the  Gulf 
of  California.  The  southern  part  only  contains  some  white  inhab- 
itants, the  centre  and  north  being  occupied  by  various  Indian 
tribes ;  many  of  whom  are  civilized  and  industrious.  This 
region  contains  rich  silver-mines ;  gold  is  obtained  from  wash- 
ings, and  auriferous  copper  ore  abounds.  There  are  also  valua- 
ble pearl  fisheries.  Wheat,  hides,  furs,  gold,  silver,  and  copper, 
are  exported.  Guaymas,  on  the  Gulf  of  California,  is  said  to 
be  the  best  harbour  of  Mexico,  but  the  town  is  unhealthful,  and  the 
water  brackish.  Population,  8000.  Petic,  in  the  interior,  is  the 
residence  of  the  wealthy  merchants,  and  a  place  of  considera- 
ble trade,  being  the  depot  of  articles  imported  into  Guaymas  for 
Upper  Sonora  and  New  Mexico.  It  contains  about  5,000 
inhabitants. 

Alamos  is  a  place  of  about  6000  inhabitants,  having  in  its 
vicinity  some  of  the  richest  silver-mines  in  Mexico.  Mazatlan 
has  a  good  harbour,  though  exposed  to  the  south-west  winds. 


188  NORTH    AMERICA. 

The  territory  of  New  Mexico  is  only  an  infant  settlement, 
formed  on  the  upper  part  of  the  Rio  del  Norte,  in  a  fertile  tract 
of  land,  but  having  a  climate  remarkably  cold,  considering  the 
latitude.  A  great  number  of  sheep  are  reared,  of  which  about 
30,000  are  sent  every  year  to  the  southward ;  and  there  are 
some  mines  of  valuable  copper.  Santa  Fe,  the  capital,  contains 
about  5000  inhabitants.  The  caravan  route  from  the  state  of 
Missouri  terminates  here. 

Lower  California  is  a  long  peninsula  in  the  Pacific,  parallel  to 
the  continent,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  its  deep  gulf.  The 
soil  is  sandy  and  arid,  and  only  a  few  favoured  spots  present  a 
trace  of  vegetation.  There  are  about  7000  or  8000  white  inhab- 
itants and  converted  Indians,  and  4000  savages ;  and  it  is  not 
supposed  that  the  population  can  ever  be  much  greater.  The 
missions  have  been  pretty  much  broken  up  since  the  revo- 
lution. Loretto,  once  a  place  of  some  note,  now  contains  about 
250  inhabitants. 

New  or  Upper  California  is  a  vast  tract  extending  north  from 
Lower  California  to  the  latitude  of  42°.  A  lofty  ridge  of  moun- 
tains runs  along  its  western  side,  not  far  from  the  sea,  forming 
the  prolongation  of  the  mountains  of  the  peninsula,  and  extend- 
ing north  beyond  the  Columbia  river.  Along  the  coast  some 
missions  have  been  founded,  and  some  settlements  of  whites 
effected.  The  former  are  now  rapidly  declining.  There  are  21 
establishments,  containing  about  7000  converts.  These  are  In- 
dians, who  have,  from  time  to  time,  been  forced  to  join  the  mis- 
sions. They  are  kindly  treated,  but  are  not  allowed  to  leave  the 
settlements ;  and  the  surplus  of  their  labour  belongs  to  the  mis- 
sionaries :  the  missions  have  about  300,000  head  of  cattle. 

The  coast  has  some  excellent  harbours,  among  which  is  that 
of  St.  Francisco,  which  affords  perfect  security  to  ships  of  any 
burthen,  with  plentiful  supplies  of  fresh  beef,  vegetables,  wood, 
and  fresh  water.  Monterey,  the  principal  town  of  Upper  Cali- 
fornia, has  3000  inhabitants. 

On  the  eastward  of  the  coast  above  mentioned,  and  extending 
to  the  Colorado  and  the  Rocky  Mountains,  is  a  vast  sandy  plain, 
about  200  miles  in  width  by  500  in  length,  consisting  of  a  bare, 
arid  surface,  with  some  isolated  mountains  interspersed  here  and 
there  over  its  dreary  bosom. 

Balize  Settlement. — On  the  west  side  of  the  peninsula  of 
Yucatan  is  the  Balize  Settlement,  which,  though  within  the  lim- 
its of  Mexico,  belongs  to  Great  Britain.  It  extends  along  the 
bay  of  Honduras  about  150  miles.  The  population  consists  of 
about  4000  persons,  of  whom  nearly  300  are  whites,  and  the  rest 

216 


GUATIMALA.  189 

Indians,  negroes,  and  mixed  breeds.  Balize,  the  capital  of  the 
settlement,  is  a  well-built  town,  on  both  sides  of  the  river  of  the 
same  name.  The  colony  was  founded  for  the  purpose  of  cutting 
logwood  and  mahogany,  and  its  exports  in  1830  were  of  the 
value  of  1,500,000  dollars. 


GUATIMALA, 

OR  UNITED  STATES  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA. 

The  republic  of  Guatimala,  occupying  the  narrow  tract 
between  the  two  great  masses  of  the  continent,  has,  in  virtue  of 
its  position,  assumed  the  title  of  the  United  States  of  Central 
America. 

Guatimala  is  bounded  on  the  south-east  by  the  republic  of 
New  Grenada ;  on  the  north  and  north-east  by  the  Mexican 
states,  and  the  Caribbean  sea ;  and  on  the  south  and  south-west 
by  the  Pacific  Ocean.  It  is  about  1000  miles  in  length,  and 
from  100  to  350  in  breadth.  The  surface  has  been  estimated  at 
200,000  square  miles. 

A  lofty  chain  of  mountains,  forming  a  part  of  the  great  Mexi- 
can and  Rocky  Mountain  range,  traverses  the  country  from 
south-east  to  north-west.  It  extends  along  the  Pacific  coast,  and 
presents  a  series  of  21  volcanic  peaks  in  constant  activity.  This 
part  of  the  country  is  subject  to  the  most  tremendous  convul- 
sions of  nature,  which  have  buried  cities  in  ruins,  and  destroyed 
whole  tribes  of  people.  The  volcano  of  Agua,  or  Water,  and 
that  of  Fuego,  or  Fire,  both  near  Guatimala,  rise  to  the  height 
of  from  14,000  to  15,000  feet.  The  volcano  of  Cosiguina,  in 
Nicaragua,  was  in  the  year  1834  the  subject  of  one  of  the  most 
terrific  eruptions  on  record.  The  noise  was  heard  as  far  as  Bo- 
gota, in  New  Grenada,  1000  miles  distant;  and  the  ashes 
thrown  out  by  the  volcano  were  carried  to  Jamaica,  800  miles. 

The  eastern  part  of  Guatimala,  swelling  somewhat  into  the 
form  of  a  peninsula,  and  known  by  the  name  of  Mosquitia,  or 
the  Mosquito  shore,  consists  of  a  vast  unbroken  forest,  beat  by 
the  burning  rays  of  the  sun,  and  occupied  by  unsubdued  Indians. 

The  waters  which  descend  from  the  mountains  of  Guatimala 
fall  into  one  or  other  of  the  opposite  oceans,  and  do  not  swell 
into  rivers  of  any  importance.  The  Lake  of  Nicaragua  is 
navigable  for  the  largest  ships.  It  is  120  miles  in  length,  and 
50  in  breadth,  and  possesses  almost  throughout  a  depth  of  10 
fathoms.     Numerous    streams,  flowing  from  different  quarters, 

T  217 


190  GUATIMALA 

form  this  great  body  of  water,  which  has  only  one  outlet  in  the 
river  St.  Juan,  which  flows  from  it  into  the  Caribbean  sea. 

The  surface  of  the  lake  is  diversified  and  adorned  with  small 
islands,  in  one  of  which  is  a  volcanic  mountain.  It  communi- 
cates by  a  short  navigable  channel  with  a  smaller  lake,  called 
the  Lake  of  Leon,  which  may  almost  be  considered  as  a  branch 
of  it.  This  lake  is  but  five  miles  from  the  Tosta,  a  small 
stream  which  flows  into  the  Pacific  Ocean.  A  union  of  the 
Caribbean  sea  and  the  Pacific  Ocean,  by  a  canal  through  these 
channels,  is  contemplated,  which,  if  executed,  will  be  the  most  use- 
ful and  important  work  of  the  kind  in  the  world. 

Like  Mexico,  this  country  yields,  in  different  regions  and  at 
small  distances  from  each  other,  all  the  varieties  of  fruit  and 
grain  peculiar  to  the  tropical  and  temperate  zones.  Of  fruits, 
several  of  the  most  valuable  are  produced  in  the  highest  perfec- 
tion. The  indigo,  which  forms  so  large  a  part  of  the  commerce 
of  Mexico,  is  almost  entirely  the  produce  of  Guatimala.  The 
cacao  of  Soconusco  is  said  to  be  the  finest  in  the  world.  Vanilla, 
the  other  ingredient  of  chocolate,  is  procured  to  a  great  extent 
from  this  quarter.  Sugar,  cotton,  cochineal,  mahogany,  and 
dye-woods,  are  also  exported. 

There  are  manufactures  of  cotton  and  porcelain,  some  of 
.hem  fine,  but  only  for  internal  consumption ;  and  the  fabrics  in 
wrought  gold  and  silver  are  said  to  possess  great  merit.  As  to 
commerce,  Guatimala  labours  under  the  disadvantage  of  not 
having,  on  either  ocean,  any  extensive  commercial  depot,  or  a 
port  capable  of  receiving  large  ships  :  and  its  commodities  have 
to  bear  a  heavy  land-carriage,  and  a  coasting  voyage,  before 
they  arrive  at  Vera  Cruz. 

Guatimala  contains  numerous  mines,  particularly  of  silver ; 
some  of  which  have  been  undertaken  by  an  English  company,  in 
the  expectation  of  their  proving  productive ;  but  the  result  is  yet 
uncertain.  The  population  is  estimated  at  nearly  2,000,000. 
About  one-half  of  the  whole  number  are  Indians,  one-fifth  whites, 
and  three-tenths  mixed  races. 

The  government  of  Guatimala  is  federal  republican  in  its  form, 
being  modelled  on  that  of  the  United  States.  A  federal  congress, 
composed  of  a  senate  and  house  of  representatives,  chosen,  the 
latter  by  the  people,  the  former  by  the  states,  and  a  president, 
also  chosen  by  the  popular  vote,  manage  the  general  concerns 
of  the  confederacy.  Each  state  has  its  respective  legislature  and 
executive  chief  for  the  administration  of  its  domestic  affairs. 

The  territory  of  the  republic,  together  with  the  present  Mexi- 
can state  Chiapas,  formed  the  Spanish  captaincy-general  of 
Guatimala  until  1821,  when  it  was    incorporated  with  Mexico. 


GUATIMALA.  191 

On  the  fall  of  Iturbide,  in  1824,  it  separated  itself  from  the  lat- 
ter, and  constituted  itself  an  independent  republic,  under  the  title 
of  the  Federal  Republic  of  Central  America.  The  confederacy 
consists  of  five  states,  and  a  federal  district,  as  follows  : 

States.  Population.  Capital. 

Guatemala  800,000 Old  Guatimala, 

San  Salvador 350,000 San  Salvador. 

Honduras 250,000 Comayagua. 

Costa  Rica 150,000 Cartago. 

Nicaragua 250,000 Leon. 

Federal  District,  New  Guatimala. 

This  country  has  of  late  been  the  seat  of  anarchy  and  civil 
war;  and  on  the  24th  of  February,  1838,  the  city  of  Guatimala 
was  attacked  and  captured  by  the  insurgents,  under  General 
Carrero  ;  and  Senor  Salazar,  who  had  been  vice-president  of  the 
republic  since  the  1st  of  May,  1835,  was  killed. 

St.  Salvador,  the  capital  of  the  republic  of  Guatimala,  is  situ- 
ated in  a  fine  valley,  in  the  midst  of  fertile  indigo  and  tobacco 
plantations,  and  has  an  active  commerce,  as  well  as  extensive 
manufactures.     Population,  15,000. 

New  Guatimala  was  built  in  1774,  in  consequence  of  the  al- 
most entire  destruction  of  Old  Guatimala  by  an  earthquake. 
The  streets  are  broad,  clean,  and  straight.  The  houses  are 
generally  low  on  account  of  the  frequency  of  earthquakes,  and 
provided  with  gardens  and  fountains.  The  cathedral,  the  go- 
vernment house,  the  archbishop's  palace,  the  mint,  and  several 
of  the  churches,  are  handsome  buildings.  The  commerce  and 
manufactures  of  the  city  are  extensive.     Population,  35,000. 

Old  Guatimala  has  been  several  times  destroyed  by  earth- 
quakes, and  lies  between  the  volcanoes  of  Agua  and  Fuego.  It 
suffered  much  from  an  earthquake  in  1830.  It  formerly  con- 
tained fifty  or  sixty  churches,  and  several  large  convents,  which 
are  now  in  ruins.  Its  cathedral  is  one  of  the  largest  in  America. 
Population,  18,000. 

Leon,  the  capital  of  Nicaragua,  is  regularly  laid  out,  and 
handsomely  built ;  and  contains  a  university  and  a  cathedral. 
It  has  20,000  inhabitants.  Fourteen  leagues  distant  is  the  fine 
harbour  of  Realejo,  on  the  Pacific,  separated  only  by  a  level 
country,  over  which  there  is  a  good  road.  Nicaragua,  on  the 
lake  of  the  same  name,  is  a  town  of  about  8000  inhabitants.  Its 
port  is  St.  Juan,  at  the  mouth  of  the  navigable  outlet  of  the  lake. 
Cartago,  with  20,000  inhabitants,  and  St.  Jose,  are  the  principal 
towns  of  Costa  Rica.  Comayagua,  the  capital  of  Honduras, 
contains  a  college.  Omoa  and  Truxillo,  on  the  bay  of  Honduras, 
have  tolerable  harbours,  but  are  sickly. 


192  THE   WEST   INDIES. 


WEST    INDIES. 

The  West  Indies  consist  of  a  large  collection  of  islands,  sit- 
uated in  the  wide  interval  of  sea  between  North  and  South 
America.  Their  rich  products,  high  state  of  cultivation,  and  the 
singular  form  of  society  existing  in  them,  have  rendered  them 
peculiarly  interesting  and  important. 

These  islands  comprise  four  great  divisions.  The  Bahama 
islands,  the  Great  Antilles,  the  Little  Antilles,  and  the  Caribbee 
islands.  The  latter  are  divided  into  two  groups  :  the  Windward 
and  Leeward  islands. 

Cuba,  Hayti,  Jamaica,  and  Porto  Rico,  are  the  Great  Antilles ; 
the  other  islands  are  all  much  smaller,  but  many  of  them  are 
very  important  from  their  fertility  and  rich  productions.  Guada- 
loupe,  Dominica,  Antigua,  St.  Christopher,  Nevis,  Santa  Cruz, 
and  St.  Eustatia,  are  the  chief  of  the  Leeward,  and  Trinidad, 
Barbadoes,  Martinico,  St.  Vincent,  Grenada,  and  St.  Lucia,  the 
principal  of  the  Windward  islands.  The  Little  Antilles  lie  along 
the  coast  of  Venezuela  :  of  these  the  largest  are  Margarita  and 
Curacoa.  The  land  area  of  all  these  islands  amounts  to  from 
90,000  to  100,000  square  miles. 

Mountains  of  considerable  height  diversify  each  of  the  islands. 
The  most  elevated  peaks  of  Cuba,  Hayti,  and  Jamaica,  ascend 
from  7000  to  9000  feet ;  while  the  highest  summits  of  the  Ca- 
ribbee islands  range  from  3000  to  6000  feet.  Most  of  these 
eminences  have  evidently  been  the  seat  of  volcanic  action  ;  but 
this  appears  to  have  ceased  in  all  of  them,  except  the  Soufriere 
of  Guadaloupe,  which  still  exhibits  some  indications  of  it. 

The  climate  of  the  West  Indies  is,  for  a  great  part  of  the 
year,  mild  and  pleasant,  the  heat  being  in  some  measure  mode- 
rated by  the  uniform  length  of  the  nights,  and  by  refreshing  sea- 
breezes.  The  seasons  are  divided  between  the  wet  and  the  dry : 
the  former,  occurring  in  May  and  October,  are  of  short  contin- 
uance, and  during  the  rest  of  the  year  the  sky  is  clear,  and  the 
nights  are  remarkable  for  their  brilliancy. 

In  the  interval  between  the  months  of  August  and  October, 
the  West  India  islands  are  sometimes  visited  by  terrible  storms, 
Called  hurricanes.  They  are,  in  general,  preceded  by  a  pro- 
found calm ;  this  is  soon  followed  by  lightning  and  thunder, 
rain,  hail,  and  impetuous  blasts  of  wind,  which  move  with  in- 
credible swiftness.  Plantations,  forests,  and  houses,  are  often 
swept  away  before  their  violence,  which,  however,  is  but  of  short 
duration. 

The  West  Indies  abound  in  nearly  all  the  productions  of  warm 


WEST   INDIES. 


Banana. 


Plantain. 


The  Banana  and  Plantain  are  nearly  similar  productions ;  they  are  important  articles  of  food 
to  the  natives  of  the  West  Indies,  Mexico,  and  South  America,  and  are  cooked  in  various 
modes.  These  plants  grow  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  high,  and  have  leaves  near  six  feet  long,  and 
eighteen  or  twenty  inches  broad  ;  they  are  exceedingly  prolific,  and  yield  a  vast  amount  of 
nutriment. 


Cocoa-Nut  Tree. 

The  Cocoa-Nut  tree  grows  from  forty  to  sixty  feet  high  ;  its  leaves  are  twelve  or  fourteen 
feet  long,  three  feet  broad,  and  look  like  immense  feathers.  When  six  or  seven  years  old,  the 
tree  produces  from  fifty  to  one  hundred  nuts  annually.    Every  part  of  this  tree  is  highly  useful. 

T*  221 


WEST    INDIES. 


Pawpaw  Tree 


Pine  Apple. 


The  Pawpaw  tree  grows  in  the  West  Indies,  Hindoostan,  and  Malaysia.  The  fruit  is  eaten 
boiled  or  baked  like  apples.  The  juice  of  the  pulp  is  used  to  remove  freckles ;  and  the  leaves 
are  employed  like  soap  to  wash  linen.  Water  impregnated  with  the  juice  renders  the  toughest 
meat  washed  in  it  so  tender  as  to  be  cooked  with  difficulty. 

The  Pine  Apple  is  supposed  to  have  been  introduced  into  the  West  Indies  from  Peru,  and 
carried  from  thence  to  the  East  Indies,  and  the  south  of  Europe.  In  the  latter  it  is  raised  in 
sheltered  situations  in  the  open  air,  and  in  green-houses  near  London,  and  other  parts  of  Britain. 
There  are  many  varieties  of  this  fruit,  from  some  of  which  a  species  of  wine  can  be  made ; 
and  some  afford  a  fibre  that  is  manufactured  into  cordage,  and  also  a  kind  of  coarse  cloth  or 
matting.  Pine  Apples  are  imported  into  the  sea-ports  of  the  United  States,  sometimes  in  con- 
siderable quantities,  chiefly  from  the  Bahama  Islands. 


Passion  Flower. 

Four  different  kinds  of  the  Passion  Flower  grow  in  the  West  Indies,  and  produce  the  fruii 
called  the  grenadillo.  This  flower  received  its  name  because  it  was  supposed  to  represent  the 
instruments  of  Our  Saviour's  passion.  The  leaves  were  imagined  to  indicate  the  soldier's 
spear ;  the  tendrils,  the  scourge ;  the  five  Btamen,  the  fivo  wounds ;  the  three  styles,  the  three 
nails  ;  and  the  filamentous  crown  of  the  flower,  the  crown  of  thornB  or  of  glory. 


'222 


WEST   INDIES.  19S 

climates ;  the  principal  fruits  are  oranges,  lemons,  pine-apples, 
papaws,  bananas,  plantains,  &c.  Manioc,  yams,  Indian-corn, 
&c.  are  cultivated  for  food ;  and  sugar,  coffee,  cocoa,  cotton, 
indigo,  tobacco,  allspice,  &c.  furnish  important  articles  of  com- 
merce. The  forests  contain  mahogany,  lignumvitse,  iron-wood, 
and  other  woods  useful  in  the  arts. 

The  native  races  of  these  islands  are  now  nearly  extinct. 
When  first  discovered  by  the  Spaniards,  they  were  inhabited  by 
two  distinct  nations  :  the  ArrOvvauks,  a  mild  and  peaceful  people, 
who  had  made  some  advances  in  civilization,  occupied  the  Baha- 
mas and  the  Great  Antilles  ;  and  the  Caribs,  a  fierce  and  war- 
like race,  inhabited  the  more  southerly  isles.  Of  the  latter, 
a  few  individuals  are  still  to  be  found  in  St.  Vincent  and  Trin- 
idad. 

The  present  population  is  composed  of  several  distinct  classes, 
between  whom  scarcely  any  sympathy  exists ;  they  comprise 
whites,  negro  slaves,  emancipated  negroes,  and  mulattoes. 
The  whites  consist  of  Europeans  and  Creoles,  or  whites  born 
in  the  West  Indies  ;  in  all  the  islands,  with  one  exception,  they 
are  the  masters,  and  possess  all  the  power  and  property.  The 
slaves  form  the  chief  bulk  of  the  population,  except  in  Hayti  and 
the  British  islands,  and  are  the  descendants  of  slaves  originally 
brought  from  Africa.  The  emancipated  negroes  have  obtained 
their  freedom,  either  by  legislative  enactment,  as  in  the  British 
colonies ;  by  the  exercise  of  numerical  force,  as  in  Hayti ;  by 
manumission,  through  the  favour  of  masters  who  had  conceived 
an  attachment  to  them,  or  earned  by  the  industrious  employment 
of  their  leisure  hours.  The  mulattoes,  &c.  have  been  produced 
by  intercourse  between  the  white  and  black  races,  and  are  never 
enslaved. 

By  an  act  of  the  British  parliament,  passed  in  1833,  the 
slaves  were,  on  the  1st  of  August,  1834,  made  apprenticed 
labourers,  to  continue  such,  a  part  of  them,  till  the  first  of 
August,  1838,  and  a  part  till  the  first  of  August,  1840,  when 
they  are  all  to  become  completely  free.  To  indemnify  the 
owners  of  the  slaves,  parliament  voted  them  the  sum  of  20  mil- 
lion pounds  sterling,  or  nearly  100  million  of  dollars,  as  a  com- 
pensation, payable  in  certain  fixed  proportions,  according  as 
each  colony  should  be  ascertained  to  have  complied  with  the 
terms  of  the  act. 

Soon  after  the  passing  of  this  act,  the  slaves  in  the  islands  of 
Antigua  and  the  Bermudas  were  made  free  by  the  colonial  go- 
vernments ;  and  acts  have  been  recently  passed  by  the  legisla- 
tures of  Barbadoes,  Jamaica,  Nevis,  Montserrat,  St.  Christopher's, 
St.  Vincent,  Tortola,  and  the  other  islands,  by  which  all  the 

17  223 


194  THE  WEST    INDIES. 

slaves,  or  apprenticed  labourers,  were  liberated  in  those  islands, 
on  the  1st  of  August,  1838. 

The  population  of  the  different  islands  may  be  apportioned  as 
follows : 

Danish  Dutch  &c.  islands  . .  119,000 

Hayti 800,000 

Total    2^0,000 


Spanish  islands 1,050,000 

British      do 745,000 

French     da      256,000 


Of  the  above  population,  500,000  are  whites,  600,000  slaves, 
and  1,870,000  are  free  negroes  and  mulattoes. 

Commerce  is  carried  on  to  a  much  greater  extent  in  the  West 
Indies  than  in  any  other  country  of  the  same  wealth  and  popu- 
lation in  the  world.  The  value  of  the  exports  is  probably  not 
less  than  70  million  dollars,  and  the  imports  rather  more  than 
half  that  amount.  The  greatest  trade  is  with  Great  Britain  and 
the  United  States,  and  the  British  North  American  colonies. 

The  chief  articles  of  export  are,  coffee,  sugar,  rum,  cotton, 
cocoa,  pimento,  mahogany,  logwood,  &c.  The  imports  are, 
manufactured  goods  of  all  kinds  from  Europe,  with  flour,  lum- 
ber, fish,  and  salted  provisions  from  the  United  States  and 
British  America. 

The  islands  of  the  West  Indies,  with  the  exception  of  Hayti 
and  Margarita,  belong  to  different  European  nations,  and  are 
under  the  control  of  governors  appointed  by  the  powers  to 
which  they  respectively  belong.  The  government  of  the  British 
West  Indies  is  modelled  on  the  constitution  of  the  mother  coun- 
try. The  several  islands  have  a  governor  or  lieutenant-gover- 
nor, and  a  legislative  council,  appointed  by  the  crown ;  and  the 
most  of  them  have  also  a  house  of  representatives  chosen  by 
the  people. 

Spanish  Islands. 

The  western  colonies  of  Spain,  which  for  some  centuries  com- 
prised the  greater  part  of  the  American  continent,  with  all  its 
richest  and  most  splendid  regions,  are  now  limited  to  the  two 
islands  of  Cuba  and  Porto  Rico.  Yet  these  are  so  considerable 
and  so  fruitful,  that,  since  a  more  liberal  policy  has  been  adopt- 
ed towards  them,  they  have  in  no  small  degree  compensated  for 
her  immense  losses. 

Cuba,  the  finest  and  largest  of  the  West  India  Islands,  is 
about  760  miles  in  length,  by  52  in  mean  breadth,  and  has  a 
superficial  area  of  43,500  square  miles,  being  nearly  equal  in 
extent  to  all  the  other  islands  taken  together.  It  is  traversed 
throughout  its  whole  extent  by  chains  of  mountains,  whose 
highest  peaks,  Potrillo  and  Cobre,  attain  an  elevation  of  9000 


THE    WEST    INDIES.  195 

feet ;  and  the  plains  beneath  are  copiously  watered,  and  render- 
ed fit  for  producing,  in  the  highest  perfection,  the  objects  of 
tropical  culture. 

Within  the  last  thirty  years,  various  circumstances  have  con- 
curred in  improving  the  condition  of  this  island,  and  it  has  from 
being  one  of  the  poorest,  become,  in  proportion  to  its  extent,  per- 
haps the  richest  European  colony  in  the  world.  The  expulsion 
of  the  Spaniards  from  the  continental  colonies,  and  from  St. 
Domingo,  with  the  cession  of  Florida  to  the  United  States,  have 
brought  a  vast  increase  of  inhabitants,  and  the  adoption  of  a 
more  liberal  and  protecting  system  towards  strangers  has  added 
greatly  to  its  trade  and  commerce.  Forty  years  ago  the  revenue 
of  Cuba  did  not  amount  to  a  million  of  dollars,  but  at  the  pre- 
sent time  it  cannot  be  less  than  ten  times  that  sum. 

The  principal  articles  of  export  from  this  island  are  sugar, 
coffee,  molasses,  tobacco,  cigars,  honey,  &c. :  these  amount 
annually  to  about  15  million  dollars.  The  imports  are  chiefly 
lumber,  provisions,  cotton  goods,  hardware,  wines,  &c,  rising 
altogether  to  the  sum  total  of  20  million  dollars.  The  principal 
part  of  the  trade  is  carried  on  with  the  United  States,  Spain,  and 
Great  Britain.  Total  population  of  Cuba,  725,000.  Whites 
315,000.   Mulattoes  and  free  negroes,  110,000.   Slaves,  300,000. 

Havannah,  the  capital  of  Cuba,  is  one  of  the  largest  cities  of 
the  New  World.  It  presents  a  magnificent  appearance  from  the 
sea,  its  numerous  spires  being  intermingled  with  lofty  and  luxu- 
riant trees.  The  churches  are  handsome  and  richly  ornamented  , 
and  several  private  mansions  are  reckoned  to  be  worth  above 
300,000  dollars  each.  The  interior  of  the  city,  however,  for 
the  most  part  consists  of  narrow,  ill-paved,  and  dirty  streets, 
crowded  with  merchandise  and  wagons,  and  presenting  entirely 
the  appearance  of  busy  trade.  Yet  the  alameda,  or  public  walk, 
and  the  opera,  on  the  appearance  of  a  favourite  performer,  ex- 
hibit a  gay  and  even  splendid  aspect.  The  recently  constructed 
suburbs  are  also  built  in  a  superior  style.  Havannah  has  patri- 
otic and  literary  societies,  which  are  improving.  Several  jour- 
nals are  published,  one  of  them  in  English.  The  population  is 
estimated  at  120,000. 

Matanzas,  about  sixty  miles  east  of  the  capital,  is  now  the 
second  commercial  town  in  the  island.  The  population  of  the 
place  amounts  to  about  15,000.  Upwards  of  50  million  pounds 
of  sugar,  and  nearly  8  million  pounds  of  coffee  have  been 
exported  from  this  place  in  one  year.  As  the  vicinity  is  rapidly 
becoming  settled  and  brought  under  cultivation,  its  importance  is 
daily  increasing.  Trinidad  is  one  of  the  most  populous  and 
thriving  places  on  the  island,  since  the  removal  of  the  restrictions 


196  THE    WEST    INDIES. 

on  its  trade.  Its  harbour  is  capacious,  but  exposed,  and  its 
commerce  considerable.  Population,  12,500.  To  the  west  lies 
Fernandina,  a  small  town,  but  having  one  of  the  best  harbours 
in  the  world,  formed  by  the  magnificent  bay  of  Xagua. 

Puerto  Principe,  situated  in  the  interior,  is  a  poor,  dirty,  and 
ill-built  town,  in  a  wet  spot,  which  in  many  places  is  only  pass- 
able on  raised  footpaths.  Its  inland  trade  is  considerable.  Popu- 
lation, 50,000. 

In  the  eastern  part  of  the  island  is  St.  Jago  de  Cuba,  once 
the  capital  of  Cuba.  It  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  best-built  towns 
of  the  colony,  and  contains  26,000  inhabitants. 

Porto  Rico,  the  smallest  of  the  Great  Antilles,  is  about  100 
miles  in  length  by  36  in  mean  breadth,  and  has  a  superficies  of 
4000  square  miles.  Although  inferior  to  none  of  the  islands  in 
fertility  and  general  importance,  it  was  long  neglected  by  Spain, 
and  until  the  beginning  of  the  present  century  its  wealth  was 
derived  entirely  from  its  woods  and  pastures.  The  population  is 
about  325,000  ;  of  this  number  only  35,000  are  slaves.  The 
law  makes  no  distinction  between  the  white  and  the  coloured 
classes,  and  the  whites  are  in  the  habit  of  intermixing  freely 
with  the  people  of  colour. 

The  exports  are  sugar  and  coffee,  with  cattle,  tobacco,  rum, 
cotton,  &c. ;  the  imports  are  the  same  as  those  of  Cuba.  The 
annual  value  of  the  imports  is  about  3,000,000  dollars,  of  ex- 
ports 4,000,000  dollars,  two-thirds  of  which  are  in  American 
bottoms. 

The  capital,  St.  John's,  or  San  Juan,  is  a  large,  neat,  and  well- 
built  town  on  the  northern  coast,  with  a  deep,  safe,  and  capacious 
harbour.  It  is  very  strongly  fortified,  and  contains  about  30,000 
inhabitants.     The  other  towns  are  small. 

Mayaguez  and  Aguadilla  on  the  west  coast,  Ponce  and  Guay- 
ama  on  the  southern,  and  Foxardo,  are  the  principal  ports. 

British  Islands. 

The  British  islands,  though  not  the  most  extensive  or  natu- 
rally fruitful,  are,  since  those  of  France  have  sunk  into  secondary 
importance,  undoubtedly  the  best  cultivated,  most  wealthy,  and 
productive.  Perhaps  no  part  of  the  globe,  in  proportion  to  its 
extent,  yields  such  an  amount  of  valuable  commodities  for  ex- 
portation. 

Jamaica,  the  largest  and  most  valuable  island  in  the  British 
West  Indies,  is  150  miles  long  and  50  wide ;  area,  5500  square 
miles.  The  lofty  range  of  the  Blue  Mountains  in  the  interior, 
covered  with  ancient  and  majestic  forests,  gives  to  its  landscapes 
a  grand  and  varied  aspect.     From  these  heights  descend  about 

226 


THE    WEST    INDIES.  197 

a  hundred  rivers,  or  rather  rills,  which  dash  down  the  steeps  in 
numerous  cascades,  and,  after  a  short  course,  reach  the  sea. 

The  soil  of  this  island  is  considered  to  be  by  no  means  uni- 
versally good,  and  its  actual  fertility  is  ascribed  in  a  great  measure 
to  diligent  manuring  and  cultivation.  The  sugar  of  Jamaica  is 
of  excellent  quality,  the  rum  is  considered  superior  to  that  of  any 
of  the  other  colonies ;  but  its  coffee  ranks  second  to  that  of  Ber- 
bice.  Pimento  or  allspice,  the  plantations  of  which  are  extremely 
ornamental,  is  peculiar  to  this  island,  and  has  been  often  termed 
Jamaica  pepper.  With  her  natural  and  acquired  advantages, 
however,  Jamaica  has  not  been  preserved  from  the  pestilential 
influence  of  the  climate,  which  renders  it  extremely  dangerous 
to  European  constitutions. 

The  towns  of  Jamaica,  as  of  the  other  islands,  are  all  sea- 
ports, and  supported  by  commerce.  Spanish  Town,  or  Santiago 
de  la  Vega,  the  most  ancient,  and  still  the  seat  of  the  legislature 
and  courts,  is  of  comparatively  little  importance,  and  has  not 
more  than  4000  or  5000  inhabitants.  Port  Royal,  possessed  of 
a  secure  and  spacious  harbour,  was,  in  the  end  of  the  seventeenth 
century,  with  the  exception  of  Mexico  and  Lima,  the  most  splen- 
did and  opulent  city  in  the  New  World.  Suddenly  an  earth- 
quake swallowed  up  the  greater  part  of  the  city  and  its  inhab- 
itants. It  was  afterwards  rebuilt,  but  being  successively  ravaged 
by  a  destructive  fire  and  a  hurricane,  came  to  be  viewed  as  a 
fatal  spot,  was  abandoned  for  Kingston,  and  is  now  reduced  to 
200  or  300  houses.  The  fortifications,  however,  which  are  very 
strong,  are  still  kept  up,  and  a  navy-yard  is  maintained  there. 

Kingston  is  now  the  principal  town  of  Jamaica.  Its  commerce, 
though  not  equal  to  what  that  of  Port  Royal  once  was,  is  great, 
and  is  favoured  by  a  spacious  and  commodious  roadstead.  Its 
population  is  30,000. 

Montego  Bay,  a  place  with  about  4000  inhabitants,  carries  on 
a  considerable  commerce.  The  Grand  and  Little  Cayman,  which 
are  inhabited  only  by  a  few  hundred  fishermen  and  pilots,  may 
be  considered  as  appendages  to  Jamaica. 

Barbadoes  was  the  earliest  settled  and  improved  of  all  the 
English  possessions.  Its  soil,  though  deficient  in  depth,  is  well 
fitted  for  the  culture  of  sugar ;  and  its  rich  plantations,  diversi- 
fied by  the  gentle  hills  which  rise  in  the  interior,  present  a 
delightful  landscape.  Bridgetown,  the  capital,  is  one  of  the 
gayest  and  handsomest  towns  and  one  of  the  strongest  military 
posts,  in  the  West  Indies,  containing  above  20,000  inhabitants. 

Antigua,  St.  Christopher's,  and  the  others  which  comprise  the 
Leeward  Islands,  have  one  governor,  who  resides  at  Antigua. 
Hence  John's  Town,  its  capital,  admired  for  its  agreeable  situa- 

17*  227 


198  THE    WEST    INDIES. 

tion,  and  the  regularity  of  its  buildings,  derives  a  considerable 
degree  of  importance,  and  is  a  favourite  resort.  It  has  about 
15,000  inhabitants. 

St.  Christopher's,  known  often  by  the  familiar  appellation  of 
St.  Kitt's,  was  first  occupied  by  the  English  in  1623  ;  and,  though 
repeatedly  disputed  by  the  Spaniards  and  French,  has,  with  the 
exception  of  some  short  intervals,  remained  in  the  possession  of 
Britain.  Basseterre,  the  capital,  on  the  south-west  coast,  con- 
tains 6000  or  7000  inhabitants. 

The  other  Leeward  Islands  consist  of  Montserrat,  Nevis,  Bar- 
buda, Anguilla,  and  the  Virgin  Islands :  they  are  all  small 
islands,  and  are  among  the  least  important  in  the  British  West 
Indies. 

Dominica  is  a  large  island,  but  not  productive  altogether  in 
proportion  to  its  extent,  much  of  the  surface  being  mountainous 
and  rugged.  Several  of  its  volcanic  summits  throw  out.  from 
time  to  time,  burning  sulphur ;  but  they  do  not  act  to  any  de- 
structive extent.  It  is  interspersed,  however,  with  fertile  valleys  : 
a  large  quantity  of  coffee  is  raised  on  the  sides  of  the  hills. 
Roseau,  or  Charlottetown,  the  capital,  is  by  no  means  so  flour- 
ishing as  before  the  fire  of  1781  ;  it  is  well  built,  but  many  of 
the  houses  are  unoccupied.    Its  population  may  amount  to  5000. 

St.  Vincent's  is  one  of  the  most  elevated  and  rugged  of  the 
Caribbees.  It  contains  the  only  very  active  volcano  in  these 
islands,  which,  after  being  dormant  for  a  century,  burst  forth  in 
1812  with  tremendous  violence,  exhibiting  the  most  awful  phe- 
nomena. It  contains  small  remnants  of  the  native  Carib  race, 
mingled  with  some  free  negroes,  who  were  early  introduced,  and 
have  adopted  many  of  the  Indian  usages.  Kingston,  the  capital, 
has  been  supposed  to  contain  8000  inhabitants. 

Grenada  exhibits  a  considerable  variety  of  surface,  which,  on 
the  whole,  however,  is  extremely  productive,  and  renders  it  an 
important  acquisition.  St.  George,  the  capital,  named  formerly 
Fort  Royal,  possesses  one  of  the  most  commodious  harbours  in 
the  West  Indies,  and  has  been  strongly  fortified.  The  Grena- 
dines, or  Grenadillos,  comprising  a  number  of  small  islands, 
lying  between  Grenada  and  St.  Vincent,  produce  some  sugar  and 
coffee. 

Tobago,  is  a  small  but  fertile  and  beautiful  island.  It  yields 
the  fruits  and  other  products  common  to  the  West  India  islands 
with  those  of  the  bordering  Spanish  main.  Scarborough,  a 
town  of  about  3000  inhabitants,  is  its  capital. 

St.  Lucia  was  ceded  to  Great  Britain  in  1815.  Its  high  peaks, 
called  sugar-loaves,  are  visible  at  some  distance  at  sea.  The 
soil  is  productive,  but  the  cU.nate  is  unhealthful.    On  the  westerr 

228 


THE    WEST    INDIES.  199 

side  is  Carenage,  one  of  the  best  harbours  in  these  islands.  The 
town  has  a  population  of  about  5000  souls. 

Trinidad,  separated  only  by  a  strait  from  the  coast  of  South 
America,  where  that  cou'itry  is  traversed  by  the  branches  of 
the  Orinoco,  shares  in  a  great  measure  its  character.  It  is 
covered  with  magnificent  forests,  and  presents  scenery  peculiarly 
grand  and  picturesque.  The  island  is  unhealthful,  but  fruitful. 
One  remarkable  object  in  this  island  is  a  lake  of  asphaltum, 
three  miles  in  circumference.  This  substance,  being  rendered 
ductile  by  heat,  and  mingled  with  grease  or  pitch,  is  employed 
with  advantage  in  covering  the  bottoms  of  ships.  Trinidad 
contains  still  about  900  native  Indians.  Port  Spain  is  a  con- 
siderable town,  well  fortified,  and  with  an  excellent  harbour.  It 
is  built  regularly  and  handsomely,  with  a  fine  shaded  walk  and 
spacious  market ;  and  the  churches,  both  Protestant  and  Catho- 
lic, are  very  richly  ornamented. 

The  Bahama  islands  comprise  about  650  islets  and  islands, 
of  which  only  14  are  of  considerable  size.  The  soil  of  these 
islands  is  not  fertile;  and  cotton  is  the  only  article  cultivated  to 
any  extent.  Nassau,  the  capital  of  the  Bahamas,  is  a  flourish- 
ing town  on  the  island  of  New  Providence,  with  5000  inhabitants. 

Between  these  islands  and  the  coast  of  Florida  is  the  Bahama 
channel,  through  which  that  celebrated  current  called  the  Gulf 
Stream,  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  rushes  with  such  impetuosity 
that  it  is  perceptible  upon  the  northern  coasts  of  Europe.  Its 
force  renders  the  passage  extremely  dangerous,  and  has  given 
occasion  to  frequent  wrecks.  The  principal  islands  are  the 
Great  Bahama  and  Abaco,  on  the  Little  Bahama  Bank  ;  Eleu- 
thera,  New  Providence,  Guanahani,  or  St.  Salvador,  or  Cat 
island,  remarkable  as  the  point  first  discovered  by  Columbus ; 
Yuma,  and  Exuma,  on  the  Great  Bahama  Bank  ;  and  Mayagu- 
ana,  Inagua,  the  Caycos  and  Turks'  islands,  further  south.  The 
salt  ponds  of  the  last  named  islands  supply  great  quantities  of 
salt,  which  is  obtained  by  evaporation. 

The  Bermudas  lie  900  miles  eastward  of  South  Carolina,  and 
are  a  collection  of  rocks  and  small  islands,  of  which  only  eight 
possess  any  importance.  They  enjoy  an  almost  perpetual  spring, 
and  are  clothed  in  constant  verdure.  But  though  they  afford 
thus  an  agreeable  and  healthful  residence,  they  have  not  proved 
productive  in  any  of  those  commodities  which  can  become  the 
staple  of  an  important  traffic.  The  rocky  nature  of  the  coasts 
renders  them  easily  defensible,  but  unfavourable  to  navigation. 
St.  George,  the  seat  of  government,  on  an  island  of  the  same 
name,  is  only  a  large  village.     Population,  3000. 

u  229 


200  THE    WEST    INDIES. 

French  Islands. 

The  possessions  of  France  in  the  West  Indies,  previous  to  her 
revolutionary  war,  were  more  valuable  than  those  of  any  other 
nation.  The  exports  from  St.  Domingo  or  Hayti  alone  amounted 
to  25,000,000  dollars.  That  valuable  island  is  now  entirely  lost 
to  her.  During  the  late  war  all  her  islands  were  captured,  and 
she  ceased  to  exist  as  a  colonial  power.  At  the  peace,  Martinico, 
Guadaloupe,  &c,  were  restored. 

Martinico  is  one  of  the  largest  of  the  Caribbee  islands :  in 
the  centre  rise  three  lofty  mountains,  the  streams  descending 
from  which  copiously  water  the  island.  It  has  been  often  visited 
by  earthquakes  and  by  hurricanes.  Fort  Royal,  the  capital  and 
the  seat  of  the  courts  of  justice,  is  a  well-built  town,  with  7000 
inhabitants ;  but  the  chief  trade  centres  in  St.  Pierre,  the  largest 
place  in  Martinico.     It  has  about  20,000  inhabitants. 

Guadaloupe  consists  of  two  islands  ;  the  western,  called  Basse- 
terre, contains  a  chain  of  lofty  and  rugged  mountains,  one  of 
which  emits  volumes  of  smoke,  with  occasional  sparks  of  fire. 
Its  plains,  however,  are  copiously  watered  and  fruitful.  The 
eastern  division,  called  Grande  Terre,  is  more  flat,  and  labours 
under  a  deficiency  of  water. 

Basseterre,  on  the  part  of  the  island  bearing  that  name,  ranks 
as  the  capital ;  but  having  a  bad  harbour,  is  supported  merely 
by  the  residence  of  government,  and  has  not  more  than  9000 
inhabitants.  Pointe-a-Pitre,  on  the  eastern  side,  carries  on 
almost  all  the  trade,  and  has  a  population  of  about  15,000.  The 
islands  of  Mariegalante,  the  Saintes,  and  Deseada,  are  appen- 
dages to  Guadaloupe,  of  little  importance.  France  possesses  a 
portion  of  the  island  of  St.  Martin. 

Dutch,  Swedish,  and  Danish  Islands. 

Curacoa  and  St.  Eustatia  are  the  principal  Dutch  islands.  The 
last,  though  the  smallest,  is  the  most  fertile,  being  cultivated  with 
great  care.  The  capital  is  well  fortified,  and  is  the  seat  of  a 
considerable  commerce.  Curacoa  produces  some  sugar  and  to- 
bacco, but  is  not  very  productive.  It  was  once  important  as  the 
centre  of  an  extensive  contraband  trade  with  the  Spanish  South 
American  colonies.  The  small  island  of  Saba,  and  part  of  St. 
Martin's,  also  belong  to  Holland. 

St.  Bartholomew  is  the  only  colony  possessed  by  Sweden.  It 
is  highly  cultivated,  and  carries  on  a  considerable  commerce. 
Its  capital,  Gustavia,  formerly  possessed  some  importance  in 
consequence  of  having  been,  for  many  years,  during  the  late 
Enropean  wars,  the  only  neutral  port  in  these  seas. 


THE    WEST    INDIES.  201 

Santa  Cruz,  St.  Thomas,  and  St.  Johns,  belong  to  Denmark. 
The  first  is  a  fine,  fertile  island,  and  is  highly  prolific  in  all  the 
usual  West  Indian  products.  Its  capital  carries  on  a  considera- 
ble commerce.  St.  Thomas  is  an  important  depot  for  the  con- 
traband  trade  with  the  neighbouring  islands. 

Hayti. 

Hayti,  formerly  called  Hispaniola  and  St.  Domingo,  once 
belonged  jointly  to  France  and  Spain.  It  is  a  very  fine,  fertile 
island  400  miles  in  length,  and  110  in  breadth,  having  an  area 
of  30,000  square  miles,  being  about  equal  in  extent  to  Ireland, 
but  with  a  population  of  only  one-tenth  of  that  of  the  British 
island.  In  the  centre  rises  the  lofty  range  of  the  mountains  of 
Cibao,  of  which  the  peak  of  La  Serrania  attains  the  height  of 
9000  feet. 

The  principal  productions  of  this  island  are  coffee,  sugar- 
cane, cotton,  tobacco,  mahogany,  Campeachy  wood,  and  lignum- 
vitae ;  honey,  wax,  and  various  fruits.  The  exports  and  imports 
are  each  about  4,000,000  dollars  annually,  or  about  one-sixth 
of  the  amount  of  the  trade  of  the  French  part  of  St.  Domingo 
only,  previous  to  the  revolution  of  1791. 

That  event  produced  an  extraordinary  change  in  the  con- 
dition of  this  island.  The  proclamation  of  the  French  assembly, 
that  all  men  are  free  and  equal,  gave  rise  to  a  contest  between 
the  white  and  free  coloured  population,  during  the  progress  of 
which  the  slaves  conceived  that  it  applied  to  them  also.  They 
in  consequence  rose  in  a  body,  massacred  or  drove  out  the  other 
two  classes,  and  became  entire  masters  of  French  St.  Domingo. 

After  the  commission  of  numerous  excesses,  and  various  changes 
in  government,  Boyer,  the  present  ruler,  by  a  series  of  vigorous 
operations,  not  only  extended  his  sway  over  all  the  French  part 
of  the  island,  but  annexed  to  it  also  that  belonging  to  Spain 
(1822  ;)  so  that  the  whole  is  now  comprehended  in  the  republic 
of  Hayti.  France  in  1803  made  strong  efforts  to  regain  this 
valuable  island,  but  without  success.  At  length,  in  1825,  a 
treaty  was  concluded,  by  which  she  acknowledged  the  indepen- 
dence of  Hayti,  on  condition  of  receiving  the  large  sum  of 
30,000,000  dollars,  to  be  paid  in  five  annual  instalments.  But 
according  to  a  new  treaty  concluded  in  1838,  the  balance  belong- 
ing to  France  was  fixed  at  12,000,000  dollars,  to  be  paid  by  the 
year  1863. 

The  government  of  Hayti  is  professedly  republican  ;  but  it 
has  been  well  described  as  practically  a  military  democracy. 
The  chief  executive  officer  is  the  president,  who  holds  the  place 
for  life,  and  has  a  salary  of  50,000  dollars  per  annum.     There 

231 


202  THE   WEST  INDIES. 

is  a  senate,  the  members  of  which  hold  their  office  for  life ;  and 
a  house  of  representatives,  chosen  by  the  parishes  for  six  years 

The  revenue  of  the  state  is  about  1,500,000  dollars ;  the 
expenditure  is  considerably  more.  The  army  amounts  to  45,000 
men,  besides  which  there  is  a  large  militia  force.  The  religion 
of  the  Haytians  is  Roman  Catholic,  but  there  is  little  attention 
paid  to  the  subject,  and  the  state  of  morals  is  described  as 
exceedingly  bad  :  other  religions  are  tolerated.  Whites  are  not 
allowed  to  hold  landed  property,  or  to  carry  arms. 

Port  au  Prince  is  the  capital,  and  the  chief  seat  of  trade.  It 
has  a  secure  and  excellent  roadstead,  but  the  country  around  is 
marshy,  and,  during  the  summer,  very  unhealthful.  The  city 
is  built  mostly  of  wood,  its  streets  unpaved,  and  containing  no 
remarkable  edifices.  The  population  is  15,000.  Petit  Goave 
and  Jaquemel  are  small  towns  in  the  same  department,  with 
good  harbours  and  some  trade.  Cape  Haytien,  formerly  Cape 
Francais  Henry,  is  better  built  than  Port  au  Prince,  with  well- 
paved  streets,  and  some  handsome  squares,  and  has  a  population 
of  about  10,000.  Jeremie  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade.  St. 
Domingo,  the  capital  of  what  was  the  Spanish  part  of  the  island, 
presents  the  remains  of  a  very  handsome  city ;  a  solid  and  spa- 
cious cathedral,  a  large  arsenal,  houses  in  general  commodious 
and  well-built ;  but  it  has  been  long  in  a  state  of  decay,  and  is 
not  supposed  to  contain  now  above  10,000  inhabitants. 


EXTENT  AND  POPULATION  OF  THE  WEST  INDIA  ISLANDS. 
SPANISH    ISLANDS. 
Square  miles.  Population.  Capital. 

Cuba 43,500 725,000 Havannah. 

Porto  Rico 4000 325,000 St.  John's. 

BRITISH    ISLANDS. 

Jamaica 5520 375,000 Kingston. 

Barbadoes 164 102,000 Bridgetown. 

Trinidad 1970 45,000 Port  Spain. 

Antigua 108 36,000 St.  John's. 

Grenada  and  the  (       m 29  000 gt  G 

Grenadines       \ 

St.  Vincent 121 26,000 Kingston. 

St.  Kitts 68 24,000 Basse  Terre. 

Dominica 275 20,000 Roseau. 

St.  Lucia 275 18,000 Carenage. 

Tobago 120 14,000 Scarborough. 

Nevis 20 12,000 Charlestown. 

Montserrat 47 8000 Plymouth. 

Tortola 20 7000 Road  Harbour. 

Barbuda 72 

Anguilla 90 3000 

Bahamas 4440 18,000 Nassau. 

Bermudas 20 10,000 Georgetown 


WEST   INDIES. 


Green  Turtle. 


Agouti. 


The  Agouti  is  now  less  common  in  the  West  Indies  than  formerly.  It  is  about  the  size  of  the 
European  hare ;  runs  with  great  celerity  up  rising  ground,  and,  like  the  hare,  will  frequently 
roll  over  in  descending  a  hill.    It  feeds  on  vegetables. 

The  Green  Turtle  is  that  species  so  highly  prized  as  food.  They  are  taken  in  great  numbers 
in  nearly  all  parts  of  the  West  Indies,  and  the  adjacent  regions.  Many  are  seat  every  year  to 
Europe  and  the  United  States. 


Guana. 

The  Guana  is  a  lizard  four  or  five  feet  long.  Its  flesh  is  highly  prized,  being  tender,  while, 
and  delicate  to  the  taste.  This  animal  is  very  nimble,  and  is  hunted  by  dogs.  Numbers  of 
them  are  salted  ap.d  barrelled  for  use. 


Snake  Neck,  or  Darter 


I  « 


MartiiiicoGiillinulp. 
233 


SOUTH    AMERICA. 


Ceroxylon  Andicola. 

These  trees  grow  on  the  Andes  at  an  elevation  of  from  5,000  to  J2.000  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  The  Ceroxylon  Andicola  flourishes  at  a  greater  altitude  than  any  other  known 
species  of  palm.    Its  trunk  is  coated  with  a  waxy  substance  ;  and  attains  the  height  of  160  feet. 


Brazil  Nut. 


Jatropha  Manihot. 


The  Brazil  or  Cream  Nut,  grows  fifteen  or  twenty  together,  in  a  round  hard  shell,  as  large  as 
a  child's  head.  When  ripe,  it  falls  from  the  tree,  and  is  sufficiently  heavy  to  inflict  serious  in- 
jury on  any  one  it  may  happen  to  strike. 

The  juice  of  the  Jatropha  Manihot  is  a  most  powerful  poison  ;  yet  its  root  furnishes  the  nu- 

tricious  Tapioca.    Cassava,  or  Mandioca  bread,  so  largely  used  in  South  America,  is  also 

made  from  it.   The  poisonous  quality  of  the  juice  appears  to  be  dissipated  by  heat. 

234 


SOUTH    AMERICA.  203 

Besides  the  foregoing,  the  small  islands  of  Anegada,  Bieque, 
Culebra,  theCaymans,and  Virgin  Gorda,  belong  to  Great  Britain  ; 
but  nothing  positive  as  to  the  area  or  population  can  be  given. 

FRENCH    ISLANDS. 

Square  miles.  Population.  Capital. 

Guadaloupe 675 124,000 Basse  Terre. 

Martinico 290 119,000 St.  Pierre. 

St.  Martin,  N.  part  .      15 6000 

Mariegaiante 90 11,500 Basse  Terre. 

Deseada 25 1,500 

DANISH    ISLANDS. 

Santa  Cruz 80 34,000 Christianstadt 

St.  Thomas 50 15,000 St.  Thomas. 

St  John's 70 3000 

SWEDISH. 

St.  Bartholomew ...      25 8000 Gustavia. 

DUTCH. 

St.  Eustatia .10 20,000 The  Bay. 

Cura9oa 375 12,000 Williamstadt 

St.  Martin,  S.  part  .      10 5000 

Saba 20 900 

VENEZUELA. 

Margarita 16,000 Pampatar. 

Hayti  (independent) 800,000 Port  au  Prince. 

The  small  islands  of  Oruba,  Buen  Ayre,  Orchilla  and  Tortuga, 
are  part  of  the  Little  Antilles,  and  lie  along  the  coast  of  Vene- 
zuela, :  they  are  all  small :  some  of  them  are  uninhabited  and 
but  little  is  known  of  the  area  or  population. 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 

South  America,  the  southern  division  of  the  New  World,  is 
inferior  in  dimensions  to  the  northern  portion  of  the  continent  by 
almost  1,000,000  square  miles :  its  coast  is  also  less  indented  by 
large  bays,  but  it  presents  the  same  tapering  form  to  the  south  It  is 
in  length  4500,  and  in  breadth  3200  miles,  in  the  widest  part, 
with  an  area  of  7,050,000  square  miles. 

Like  North  America,  it  is  noted  for  the  grandeur  and  diversity 
of  its  natural  features.  Here  immense  rivers  roll  through  an 
extent  of  almost  4000  miles,  and  are  so  broad  that  the  eye  can- 
not reach  from  shore  to  shore.  In  one  point  are  seen  mountain 
summits  reaching  above  the  clouds,  white  with  snows  that  never 


204  SOUTH    AMERICA. 

melt,  while  their  bases  rear  the  cocoa-nut,  the  banana,  and  thy 
pine-apple.  In  some  places  volcanoes  too  numerous  to  be  class- 
ed throw  out  smoke  and  flames,  while  in  others  are  vast  and 
deep  forests  abounding  in  all  the  gi'and  and  gigantic  vegetation 
of  tropical  climates ;  and  again  are  seen  almost  boundless  plains, 
extending  for  thousands  of  miles,  destitute  of  trees,  and  animated 
by  millions  of  wild  horses  and  cattle  which  graze  on  them. 

The  most  extensive  in  range,  and,  with  one  exception,  the  lof- 
tiest mountains  on  the  globe,  extend  through  this  continent  from 
its  northern  to  its  southern  extremity,  and  impart  to  it  a  charac- 
ter of  unequalled  grandeur  and  magnificence.  The  principal 
chain  of  the  Andes  runs  from  north  to  south,  at  a  distance  from 
the  shore  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  varying  from  100  to  200  miles, 
and  appears  to  extend  through  the  isthmus  of  Darien,  and  to  be 
connected  with  the  great  western  chain  of  North  America.  The 
elevation  of  the  Andes  is  by  no  means  uniform.  In  some  places 
it  rises  to  more  than  25,000  feet,  while  in  others  it  sinks  to  less 
than  one-half  that  height.  The  whole  range  seems  to  rest  upon 
volcanic  fires,  and  numerous  peaks  are  constantly  burning. 

The  main  ridge  of  the  Andes  commences  at  the  Isthmus  of 
Darien,  and,  in  its  progress  southward,  shoots  up,  under  the 
Equator,  into  the  lofty  summits  of  Chimborazo  and  Antisana. 
On  reaching  the  elevated  regions  of  Bolivia,  it  forms  a  vast  mass, 
amidst  whose  lofty  peaks  tower  Mount  Sorata,  of  25,400,  and 
Mount  Illimani,  of  24,350  feet  elevation,  surpassing  in  height  all 
the  other  peaks  of  this  great  chain.  Passing  onward  between 
Buenos  Ayres  and  Chili,  the  Andes  preserve  this  elevation  very 
little  diminished ;  but  toward  the  most  southern  extreme,  they 
fall  gradually  to  less  than  one-fourth  of  their  greatest  height, 
and  assume  an  aspect  dreary  and  desolate,  in  correspondence 
with  the  wintry  severity  of  the  climate. 

The  mountains  which  traverse  the  eastern  section  of  Brazil, 
rise  south  of  the  Amazon  river,  and  extend,  by  several  nearly 
parallel  ranges,  to  the  Rio  de  la  Plata.  They  generally  reach 
from  2000  to  3000  feet,  and  in  a  few  cases  are  elevated  to  near 
6000  feet,  and  are  not,  it  is  believed,  in  any  instance,  the  seat 
of  volcanic  action. 

The  rivers  of  South  America  have  undisputed  claims  to  rank 
amongst  the  greatest  on  the  globe,  whether  considered  in  their 
vast  length  of  course,  depth  and  breadth  of  stream,  or  in  their 
capacity  for  an  extensive  and  continuous  inland  navigation.  Of 
these,  the  Amazon  is  the  most  important  and  prominent.  This 
great  stream,  with  its  mighty  branches,  the  Madeira,  Caqueta. 
Rio  Negro,  &c,  drain  an  extent  of  country  estimated  to  equal 
nearly  the  whole  of  Europe. 


SOUTH   AMERICA 


Vanilla  Aromatica.  Cephaelis  Ipecacuanha. 

The  bean  of  the  Vanilla  is  noted  for  its  sweet  bilsamic  odour,  and  its  warm  and  agreeable 
taste. 
The  root  of  the  Cephaelis  Ipecacuanha  furnishes  the  well-known  emetic,  Ipecacuanha. 


Theobroma,  or  Chocolate  Tree.  Yellow  Potato  of  Peru,  &c. 

The  Theobroma  yields  the  Cacao  or  Chocolate  nut,  from  which  Chocolate  is  manufactured 
The  Yellow  Potatoe  of  Peru  and  Bolivia  is  supposed  to  be  the  original  of  that  invaluable 
vegetable. 


Tillandsia. 


237 


SOUTH    AMERICA. 


Mangrove. 


Fuchsias,  Chili. 


The  Mangrove  grows  along  the  sea-shore,  in  situations  where  its  roots  are  washed  by  the  tide ; 
at  low  water,  crabs  and  oysters  in  abundance  may  be  gathered  from  them.  This  tree  is  found 
in  nearly  all  maritime  tropical  countries. 


Paraguay  Tea,  or  Mate. 
Chili  Pine. 
The  Chili  Pine  grows  in  the  southern  part  of  Chili.    The  natives  subsist  on  its  seed,  which 
they  bury  in  pits  for  winter  use. 


Usnea  Fasciata.  Winter's  Bark. 

The  small  lichen,  Usnea  Fasciata,  is  the  only  vegetable  production  known  to  exist  in  the 
South  Shetland  Islands. 

Winter's  Bark  was  found  growing  in  Terra  del  Fuego  by  Sir  F.  Drake,  and  named  after  his 
companion.  Captain  Winter.  It  was  long  considered  in  medicine  as  a  valuable  tonic,  but  is 
now  disregarded. 


SOUTH    AMERICA.  205 

The  immense  size  of  the  Amazon  would  admit  of  a  ship  na- 
vigation for  2400  miles,  did  not  the  rapidity  of  the  current  pre- 
vent it ;  but  it  will,  no  doubt,  at  some  future  period,  yield  to  the 
power  of  steam.  The  boat  navigation  extends  about  3000  miles, 
to  the  Pongo,  or  rapids,  at  Jaen,  where  the  river  passes  a  subor- 
dinate chain  of  the  Andes.  The  Rio  de  la  Plata,  or  Parana, 
opens  to  the  ocean  with  an  estuary  of  150  miles  in  breadth.  Its 
ship  navigation  extends  to  Buenos  Ayres,  and  that  for  boats  1800 
miles  further.  The  Orinoco,  though  not  equalling  either  the 
Amazon  or  Rio  de  la  Plata,  is  nevertheless  an  important  stream. 
By  its  means,  and  that  of  its  tributary,  the  Meta,  vessels  of 
suitable  burthen  may  ascend  from  the  ocean  almost  to  the  foot 
of  the  Andes.     Its  entire  course  is  not  less  than  1500  miles. 

In  the  abundance  of  the  precious  metals,  South  America  sur- 
passes all  other  parts  of  the  earth.  Gold  is  found  in  many 
places  in  mines,  and  in  the  sands  of  the  rivers.  The  silver 
mines  of  Peru  are  among  the  most  productive  in  the  world. 
Gold,  platina,  and  mercury,  exist  in  various  places ;  and  tin, 
copper,  and  other  useful  metals,  are  abundant.  In  Brazil,  dia- 
monds are  met  with  to  a  greater  extent  than  in  any  other  part 
of  the  earth ;  but,  though  generally  larger  and  as  brilliant, 
they  are  inferior  in  hardness  to  those  of  India. 

The  vegetation  of  South  America  is  remarkable  for  its  variety 
and  its  luxuriance.  Cocoa,  vanilla,  Indian-corn,  cassava,  from 
which  tapioca,  or  sago,  is  prepared,  and  the  capsicum,  whose 
pods  yield  the  pungent  pepper,  called  Cayenne,  are  all  natives 
of  this  part  of  the  continent.  The  sugar-cane,  indigo,  cotton, 
coffee,  and  the  useful  grains,  wheat,  rye,  barley,  &c,  which 
have  been  introduced  by  Europeans,  all  thrive.  A  great  variety 
of  species  of  palms,  equally  distinguished  for  their  beauty  and 
size,  and  for  their  various  uses,  are  found  here.  In  the  Brazilian 
forests,  there  are  upwards  of  250  kinds  of  wood  fit  for  useful 
purposes  in  carpentry  and  dyeing. 

The  gum-elastic,  or  Indian-rubber,  is  the  milky  juice  of  seve- 
ral plants  found  in  Guiana,  Brazil,  and  Buenos  Ayres.  It  is 
obtained  by  making  incisions  through  the  bark,  and  is  then 
spread,  while  in  its  viscous  state,  over  a  mould,  and  dried  in  a 
thick  smoke.  It  is  now  so  extensively  used  for  making  shoes 
and  cloth,  as  to  form  an  important  article  of  commerce.  The 
cow-tree  is  found  in  Venezuela,  and  derives  its  name  from  the 
singular  fact  of  its  juice  resembling  milk.  When  an  incision  is 
made  into  the  trunk,  the  juice  issues  out  in  great  abundance,  and 
is  drunk  by  the  inhabitants.  This  vegetable  milk  does  not  co- 
agulate nor  curdle  like  animal  milk  ;  but  in  other  respects  has  an 
astonishing  resemblance.    Peruvian  bark,  and  a  great  variety  of 

18  »9 


206  SOUTH    AMERICA. 

useful  medicinal,  dyeing,  and  other  productions,  are  found  in 
this  quarter. 

South  America  contains  a  great  variety  of  animals,  many  of 
them  differing  essentially  from  those  to  be  met  with  elsewhere. 
Of  the  carnivorous,  or  animals  of  prey,  the  jaguar,  the  cougar 
or  puma,  the  ocelot,  and  mougar,  are  the  chief  of  the  cat  family. 
The  lama,  a  useful  animal,  of  the  camel  kind ;  the  vicuna,  the 
tapir,  the  peccary,  resembling  the  domestic  hog,  the  capibarra, 
the  chinchilla,  a  kind  of  rat  that  furnishes  the  chinchilla  fur,  the 
coypou,  resembling  the  beaver  of  the  northern  continent,  the 
sloth,  the  agouti,  the  ant-eaters,  the  armadillo  and  Brazilian 
porcupine,  and  monkeys  of  various  kinds. 

The  jaguar,  or  American  tiger,  is  a  formidable  animal,  and  is 
in  size  between  the  tiger  and  leopard  of  the  old  continent.  It  is 
found  from  Guiana  to  Paraguay,  and  is  a  solitary  animal,  in- 
habiting thick  virgin  forests.  They  attack  cows,  and  even  bulls 
of  four  years  old,  but  are  especially  enemies  to  horses.  It  will 
seldom  attack  man,  except  when  strongly  pressed  by  hunger ; 
instances,  however,  are  known  of  persons  having  been  seized 
and  carried  off  by  them.  The  cougar  is  found  in  different  parts 
of  South  America,  and  is  believed  to  be  the  same  animal  as  the 
North  American  panther. 

The  tapir,  or  anta,  is  of  the  size  of  a  small  cow,  but  without 
horns,  and  with  a  short  naked  tail ;  the  legs  are  short  and 
thick,  and  the  feet  have  small  black  hoofs.  His  skin  is  so  thick 
and  hard,  as  to  be  almost  impenetrable  to  a  bullet ;  for  which 
reason  the  Indians  make  shields  of  it.  The  tapir  seldom  stirs 
out  but  in  the  night,  and  delights  in  the  water,  where  he  oftener 
lives  than  on  land.  He  is  chiefly  to  be  found  in  marshes,  and 
seldom  goes  far  from  the  borders  of  rivers  or  lakes.  This 
animal  is  commonly  found  in  Brazil,  Paraguay,  Guiana,  and 
Colombia. 

The  lama  resembles  a  very  small  camel,  is  gentle  and  con- 
fiding in  its  manners ;  its  carriage  is  graceful,  and  even  beautiful. 
They  abound  in  great  numbers  from  Potosi  to  Caraccas,  and 
form  the  chief  riches  of  the  Indians  and  Spaniards,  who  rear 
them.  Their  flesh  is  esteemed  excellent  food.  They  are  trained 
to  carry  burdens,  and  the  strongest  of  them  will  travel  with 
from  100  to  150  pounds  weight  on  their  backs:  their  pace  is 
slow,  but  they  are  sure-footed,  ascending  and  descending  preci- 
pices and  craggy  rocks,  where  even  man  can  scarcely  accom- 
pany them.  They  are  mostly  employed  in  carrying  the  riches 
of  the  mines  to  the  large  towns  and  cities. 

The  vicuna  is  smaller  than  the  lama,  and  is  celebrated  for 
the  superior  fineness  of  its  wool.     It  inhabits  the  highest  points 


SOUTH    AMERICA.  207 

of  the  southern  Andes,  and  exhibits  great  liveliness.  The  chin- 
chilla is  a  species  of  field  rat,  about  the  size  of  a  guinea-pig, 
and  is  held  in  great  estimation  for  the  extreme  fineness  of  its  fur 
or  wool,  which  is  sufficiently  long  for  spinning.  This  little 
animal  is  about  six  inches  in  length,  and  lives  in  burrows  under 
ground,  in  the  open  parts  of  Chili,  and  the  adjoining  regions  of 
South  America.  The  sloth  is  peculiar  to  South  America.  This 
animal,  in  its  wild  state,  spends  all  its  life  in  the  trees,  and 
never  quits  them  but  through  force  or  accident,  and  lives  not 
upon  the  branches  but  suspended  under  them :  leaves  and  wild 
fruits  constitute  its  food. 

The  horse,  the  ass,  the  ox,  the  sheep,  the  goat,  and  the  pig, 
were  all  strangers  to  the  new  world,  and  were  brought  from 
Europe,  at  an  early  period,  by  the  first  settlers.  Some  of  them 
have  increased  prodigiously  in  every  part  of  America ;  in  many 
places  they  have  even  regained  their  pristine  state  of  savage 
freedom.  Innumerable  herds  of  wild  oxen  cover  the  rich  savan- 
nahs of  Brazil,  Buenos  Ayres,  and  Colombia ;  and  troops  of 
horses,  equally  wild,  are  found  in  every  part  of  the  pampas. 
The  horned  cattle  are  principally  valuable  for  their  hides  and 
tallow,  which  are,  for  the  most  part,  shipped  to  European  ports, 
and  constitute  two  of  the  principal  commodities  of  South  Amer- 
ican exportation. 

The  ass,  the  sheep,  the  goat,  and  the  hog,  likewise  introduced 
into  America,  both  north  and  south,  by  the  early  European 
colonists,  have  not,  with  the  exception  of  the  hog  in  the  United 
States,  increased  in  the  same  proportion  as  the  horse  and  ox. 
The  ass  is  principally  employed  in  the  old  Spanish  and  Portu- 
guese settlements,  for  the  purpose  of  breeding  mules,  which  are 
universally  employed  in  transporting  the  precious  metals,  and 
possess  all  the  wonderful  sagacity  in  discovering  and  avoiding 
danger,  and  all  the  security  of  foot,  which  have,  in  all  ages  of 
the  world,  rendered  this  animal  so  valuable  in  mountainous 
countries. 

The  principal  birds  of  South  America  are,  the  rhea,  or  Amer- 
ican ostrich,  the  condor,  the  king  of  the  vultures,  the  black 
vulture,  and  the  turkey-buzzard ;  and  of  the  eagle  family,  are 
the  Brazilian  caracara  eagle,  the  harpy  eagle,  the  most  ferocious 
of  its  species,  the  Chilian  sea-eagle,  and  the  vulturine  caracara 
eagle,  bearing  a  strong  affinity  to  both  the  vulture  and  the  eagle ; 
the  toucans,  various  in  form,  and  of  superb  colouring ;  parrots, 
of  great  variety  of  size  and  splendour  of  plumage  ;  the  burrow- 
ing owl,  blacksmith,  or  bell-bird,  uttering  a  note  like  the  blow 
of  a  hammer  upon  an  anvil,  orioles,  or  hanging-birds,  chatterers, 
manikins,  humming-birds,  of  100  different  species,  from  the  size 


208  SOUTH   AMERICA. 

of  a  wren  to  that  of  an  humble-bee ;  they  are  more  numerous 
in  the  tropical  regions  of  Brazil  and  Guiana  than  in  any  other 
section  of  the  continent ;  a  few  species  are  also  found  in  North 
America. 

The  rhea,  or  American  ostrich,  is  smaller  than  the  African 
species,  and  is  further  distinguished  from  it  by  having  three  toes 
completely  developed  on  each  foot.  It  is  found  chiefly  on  the 
pampas,  or  plains,  of  Buenos  Ayres  and  Patagonia,  from  the 
Amazon  to  the  straits  of  Magellan.  This  bird  imparts  a  lively 
interest  to  a  ride  on  the  pampas.  They  are  seen  sometimes  in 
coveys  of  twenty  or  thirty,  gliding  elegantly  along  the  gentle 
undulations  of  the  plain,  at  half  pistol-shot  distance  from  each 
other,  like  skirmishers.  The  young  are  easily  domesticated,  and 
soon  become  attached  to  those  who  caress  them ;  but  they  are 
troublesome  inmates,  for,  stalking  about  the  house,  they,  will, 
when  full-grown,  swallow  coin,  nails,  buttons,  and  every  small 
article  of  metal  within  their  reach. 

The  condor  is  of  the  vulture  species,  and  the  largest  of  ter- 
restrial birds ;  its  wings  extend  from  9  to  14  feet ;  it  is  peculiar 
to  the  Andes,  and  seems  to  prefer  the  highest  points,  bordering 
on  the  limits  of  perpetual  snow.  Although  they  never  attack 
man,  yet  they  exhibit  no  fear  at  his  approach.  Their  food  and 
habits  are  very  similar  to  those  of  the  bearded  vulture  of  Europe. 
The  skin  of  the  condor  is  so  thickly  clothed  with  down  and 
feathers,  that  it  is  capable  of  withstanding  musket-balls,  when 
not  closely  fired,  and  the  bird  is  killed  with  great  difficulty. 
The  king  of  the  vulture  is  a  smaller  species  than  the  condor ; 
its  wings,  from  tip  to  tip,  are  about  six  feet.  It  is  remarkable 
for  the  variety  of  its  colours,  and  the  bright  tints  of  blue  and 
vermilion  which  mark  its  naked  head  and  neck.  It  is  occasion- 
ally seen  as  far  north  as  Florida. 

The  toucans  are  omniverous  in  their  habits,  feeding  both  upon 
animal  and  vegetable  matter.  Their  enormous  bills  are  light, 
and  being  vascular  within,  admit  of  a  great  development  being 
given  to  the  organs  of  smell ;  by  this  power  they  discover  the 
nests  and  eggs  of  other  birds,  which  they  are  constantly  plun- 
dering. 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  fish  of  South  America  is  the  gym- 
notus,  or  electric  eel :  it  possesses  the  singular  property  of  stun- 
ning its  prey  by  an  electrical  shock.  This  eel  abounds  in  the 
rivers  and  lakes  of  the  low-lands  of  Colombia,  and  is  about  six 
feet  in  length.  The  electrical  shock  is  conveyed,  either  through 
the  hand  or  any  metallic  conductor  which  touches  the  fish ;  even 
the  angler  sometimes  receives  a  shock  from  them,  conveyed  along 
the  wetted  rod  and  fishing-line. 


SOUTH   AMERICA. 


Great  Ant-eater,  or  Ant  Bear. 

The  Great  Ant-eater  is  seven  or  eight  feet  lone,  including  the  tail.  It  feeds  on  ants,  which  it 
collects  by  thrusting  its  long  narrow  tongue,  covered  with  a  glutinous  substance,  into  an  ant 
heap,  whence  he  withdraws  it  covered  with  the  insects ;  this  operation  the  animal  repeats  with 
such  celerity  as  soon  to  satisfy  his  hunger. 


Lama. 


Tapir. 


243 


SOUTH    AMERICA. 


Red-billed  Toucan. 


Oriole,  or  Hanging  Bird's  Nests. 


Umbrella  Chatterer. 


Blacksmith,  or  Bell  Bird. 


Humming  Bird. 


Spur-winged  Water  Hen. 
244 


SOUTH    AMERICA.  209 

The  most  formidable  reptiles  of  South  America  are  the  alliga- 
tors and  serpents :  three  or  four  species  of  the  former  inhabit  the 
rivers  and  lakes :  of  the  latter  are  the  boa  constrictor,  the  ana- 
conda, and  the  aboma  ;  they  are  found  chiefly  in  the  swamps  and 
fens  of  the  tropical  parts  of  South  America :  the  latter  is  said  to 
grow  from  20  to  30  feet  in  length,  and  to  be  as  thick  as  a  stout 
man :  it  is  indifferent  as  to  its  prey,  and  destroys,  when  hungry, 
any  animal  that  comes  within  its  reach.  The  negroes  consider 
it  excellent  food. 

Among  the  useful  reptiles  are  the  turtle,  so  highly  prized  by 
epicures,  and  the  guana  lizard,  by  many  considered  quite  as  great 
a  delicacy  as  the  turtle;  its  flesh  is  white,  tender,  and  of  delicate 
flavour :  they  are  very  nimble,  and  are  hunted  by  dogs,  and, 
when  not  wanted  for  immediate  use,  are  salted  and  barrelled : 
they  are  found  both  on  the  continent  and  among  the  West  Indian 
Islands. 

On  the  discovery  of  the  New  World,  it  was  found  by  the  Spa- 
niards in  possession  of  various  tribes  of  Indians,  generally  of  a 
more  gentle  and  less  warlike  character  than  those  which  inhab- 
ited North  America.  They  were  doubtless  the  same  race,  but 
the  influence  cf  a  softer  climate  had  probably  subdued  their  vigour 
and  courage. 

Disregarding  all  the  claims  of  justice  and  humanity,  the 
ruthless  invaders  took  possession  of  the  land.  Peru,  a  populous 
empire  and  comparatively  civilized,  was  conquered  by  Pizarro, 
after  a  series  of  treacherous  and  intrepid  acts,  scarcely  paralleled 
in  the  history  of  mankind.  The  whole  of  South  America  fell 
into  the  hands  of  Europeans :  Spain  took  possession  of  the  west- 
ern, and  Portugal  of  the  eastern  portion.  Thus  it  was  arranged 
into  two  great  political  divisions. 

Soon  after  the  invasion  of  Spain  by  the  French  in  1808,  a 
revolutionary  spirit  began  to  manifest  itself  in  the  Spanish  colo- 
nies ;  and,  after  a  short  time,  they  all,  one  after  another,  declared 
themselves  independent  and  formed  republican  constitutions,  most 
of  which  were  modelled,  in  a  great  measure,  upon  the  constitution 
of  the  United  States. 

The  people,  however,  were  little  accustomed  to  free  institutions, 
and  were  ill  prepared  by  character,  education,  and  habits,  to  sus- 
tain a  republican  government ;  and  their  condition  since  the  decla- 
ration of  independence  has  been,  for  the  most  part,  a  state  of 
revolution,  disorder,  and  misrule. 

The  whole  of  South  America  is  now,  with  the  exception  of 
Guiana,  entirely  independent  of  European  control.  The  Spanish 
part  is  divided  into  a  number  of  distinct  republics,  while  Brazil, 
the  part  settled  by  the  Portuguese,  is  a  limited  monarchy. 

18*  245 


210  SOUTH   AMERICA. 

Considerable  attention  has  been  lately  paid  in  some  of  the 
South  American  States  to  education.  Schools  and  universities 
have  been  established  in  several  places,  and  knowledge  is  begin- 
ning to  dispel  part  of  the  ignorance  which  prevailed :  but  "the 
majority  of  the  people  are  superstitious,  bigoted,  and  indolent, 
and  often  vicious  in  their  habits. 

The  Roman  Catholic  is  the  established  religion  in  all  the  South 
American  States,  and  no  other  system  is  tolerated,  except  in 
Venezuela;  but  persons  of  other  persuasions  are  allowed  to  reside 
without  molestation.  Many  of  the  churches  before  the  revolu- 
tion were  decorated  with  prodigious  quantities  of  gold,  silver,  and 
precious  stones,  and  were  perhaps  the  most  sumptuous  and  costly 
in  the  world ;  and  though  numbers  of  them  were  plundered  during 
the  irregularities  of  that  contest,  yet  they  have  still  generally  a 
splendid  appearance. 

The  inhabitants  of  South  America  amount  to  about  14,000,000, 
and  consist  of  nearly  the  same  classes  as  those  of  the  northern 
division  of  the  continent,  whites,  Indians,  negroes,  and  the  mixed 
races ;  the  latter  comprise  mulattoes,  mestizos,  and  zamboes. 
The  whites  are  chiefly  Spaniards  and  Portuguese,  and  their  de- 
scendants ;  besides  some  English,  Dutch,  and  Frenchy  in  Guiana. 
The  negroes  are  not  numerous,  except  in  Brazil  and  the  Euro- 
pean colonies  of  Guiana,  in  both  of  which  slaves  abound.  In  the 
majority  of  the  Spanish- American  States,  slavery  has  been  abol- 
ished. 

The  Indians  are,  in  part,  entirely  independent  of  the  govern- 
ments within  whose  limits  they  are  nominally  included,  but  in 
many  places  they  form  a  considerable  proportion  of  the  inhabit- 
ants, and  much  of  the  common  labour  of  the  country  is  perform- 
ed by  them.  Like  the  Indians  of  North  America,  whom  they 
resemble  in  their  general  physical  characteristics,  those  of  South 
America  are  composed  of  a  great  number  of  tribes  speaking  dif- 
ferent languages  and  varying  dialects  of  the  same  language. 


EXTENT  AND  POPULATION  OF  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  STATES. 
States.      Area  in  sq.  m.    Population.  States.      Area  m  sq.  m.    Population. 


New  Grenada.  .450,000. .  .1,687,000 

Venezuela 420,000. . . .  900,000 

Ecuador 280,000. . . .  600,000 

Guiana 160,000 . . .-.  182,000 

Brazil 3,390,000. .  .5,000,000 

North  Peru  . . .  300,000 ....  700,000 
South  Peru. . . .  130,000. . . .  800,000 

216 


Bolivia 450,000. .  .1,716,000 

Buenos  Ayres.  .750,000. . . .  700,000 

Paraguay 88,000 150,000 

Uruguay 92,000 75,000 

Chili 170,000. . .  1,500,000 

Patagonia . . . .  ■  370,000 . . . .  ■  30,000 
Total  7,050,000    14^040,000 


SOUTH   AMERICA. 


The  Peacock  Trogon  is  one  of  the  most  superbly  coloured  of  the  feathered  race,  and  is 
much  Bought  after  for  the  sake  of  its  plumage. 


Cock-Tail  Waterchat. 


Blue- Winged  Parrot. 


Brazilian  Frog. 
This  reptile  is  as  large  as  a  child's  head. 


Cupid  Butterfly. 


Diamond  Beetle. 


Great  Fire-Fly. 


SOUTH    AMERICA. 


Chimborazo  was  formerly  supposed  to  be  the  highest  mountain  in  America ;  but  in  the  year 
1332,  Mount  Sorato,  in  Bolivia,  was  discovered  to  be  nearly  4000  feet  higher. 


Cotopaxi. 

Cotopaxi  is  the  highest  volcano  on  the  globe.    It  is  seldom  silent,  nearly  always  emitting 
fire  and  smoke.    Some  of  its  eruptions  have  been  tremendous. 


Mount  Pichincha. 

Mount  Pichincha.  on  which  the  city  of  Quito  is  built,  is  a  volcano  10,000  feet  high  ;  its  crater 
is  three  milua  in  circuit.  When  viewed  from  the  elevated  plain  on  which  it  stands,  this  moun- 
tain is  much  less  imposing  than  others  of  less  elevation  in  its  vicinity. 

248 


COLOMBIA.  211 


COLOMBIA. 

Colombia  is  the  name  given  to  the  extensive  territory  of  an 
independent  state,  which  took  the  lead  among  the  newly-created 
republics  of  what  was  formerly  Spanish  South  America,  and 
which,  under  the  government  of  the  mother  country,  comprised 
the  provinces  or  states  styled  the  viceroyalty  of  New  Grenada, 
the  audiencia  of  Quito,  and  the  captain-generalship  of  Venezuela. 

After  renouncing  the  authority  of  Spain,  a  declaration  of  in- 
dependence was  made,  in  the  year  1811,  and  eight  years  after- 
wards a  union  of  these  states  was  effected,  under  the  title  of 
the  Republic  of  Colombia :  general  Bolivar  was  chosen  presi- 
dent. This  confederation  endured  until  the  year  1831,  when  a 
separation  into  the  distinct  republics  of  New  Grenada,  Ecuador, 
and  Venezuela,  took  place. 

The  territories  of  these  states  correspond  respectively  with 
the  old  Spanish  colonial  divisions  above  mentioned.  Though 
exhibiting  in  some  respects  distinctive  characters,  yet  it  is  thought 
advisable  to  describe  the  physical  features  of  the  whole  region 
under  the  general  appellation  of  Colombia. 

This  territory  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Caribbean  sea, 
south  by  Peru  and  Brazil,  and  west  by  the  Pacific  ocean.  Its 
outline  is  probably  not  less  than  6500  miles  in  extent.  It 
ranges  from  north  to  south  1400,  and  from  east  to  west  1650 
miles,  with  an  area  of  about  1,150,000  square  miles. 

The  surface  of  Colombia,  its  mountains  and  plains,  are  of  the 
most  varied  character  and  on  the  most  majestic  scale,  present- 
ing forms  and  phenomena  among  the  most  grand  and  striking 
that  are  to  be  found  on  the  globe.  The  summits  of  the  Andes, 
though  less  in  elevation  than  those  of  the  Himmaleh  range  in 
Asia,  present  a  continuity  of  unbroken  and  gigantic  steeps,  per- 
haps not  inferior  in  grandeur  to  those  celebrated  mountains. 

Chimborazo,  elevated  21,730  feet  above  the  ocean,  is  the 
highest  mountain  in  Colombia,  and  is  yet  unsealed  by  mortal 
foot.  Humboldt  and  his  companions  made  extraordinary  exer- 
tions to  reach  its  summit,  and  arrived  at  about  2000  feet  from 
that  point,  then  believed  to  be  the  greatest  elevation  ever  attain- 
ed by  man.  They  were  enveloped  in  thick  fogs,  and  in  an  at- 
mosphere of  the  most  piercing  cold  ;  they  breathed  with  difficulty, 
and  blood  burst  from  the  eyes  and  lips.  Antisana,  19,400  feet 
high,  is  remarkable  for  having  a  village  on  its  side  at  the  height 
of  13,500  feet,  once  believed  to  be  the  highest  inhabited  spot  on 
the  globe. 

The  most  tremendous  volcanoes  in  the  world  are  those  which 


212  SOUTH  AMERICA. 

burst  from  this  mountain  range.  Cotopaxi  is  the  most  formida- 
ble in  the  Andes,  and,  indeed,  on  the  globe.  This  mountain  is 
19,000  feet  high,  consequently  more  elevated  than  Vesuvius 
would  be  if  placed  upon  the  top  of  Teneriffe.  In  the  course  of 
the  last  century,  it  had  five  great  eruptions,  and  one  in  1803. 
In  some  of  these  it  has  been  averred  that  Cotopaxi  was  heard  at 
the  distance  of  600  miles,  and  that  on  the  coast  of  the  Pacific,  at 
140  miles  distance,  it  sounded  like  thunder,  or  like  the  discharge 
of  a  continuous  battery  of  cannon.  From  this  and  the  other  South 
American  craters  are  ejected  not  only  the  usual  volcanic  sub- 
stances, but  torrents  of  boiling  water  and  mud,  often  containing 
great  quantities  of  dead  fishes.  Sometimes,  after  successive 
eruptions,  the  undermined  walls  of  the  mountain  fall  in,  and 
become  a  mass  of  tremendous  ruin.  Such  was  the  fate  of  El 
Altai,  which  once  reared  its  head  above  Chimborazo,  and  of 
another  very  lofty  volcano,  which,  in  1698,  fell  with  a  similar 
crash. 

To  the  east,  the  Andes  throw  out  a  chain,  called  the  chain  of 
Venezuela,  which  runs  parallel  to  the  sea  along  the  coast  of 
Caraccas,  as  far  as  Cumana,  leaving  along  the  shore  a  plain 
rich  in  the  most  valuable  tropical  productions. 

The  Llanos  form  another  extensive  portion  of  the  Colombian 
territory,  commencing  where  the  mountain  ranges  terminate,  and 
reaching  east  and  south  to  the  Orinoco.  They  consist  of  im- 
mense flats,  covered  with  magnificent  forests  and  vast  savannahs, 
in  which  the  grass  often  grows  above  the  human  height,  cover- 
ing from  view  both  man  and  horse.  A  great  extent  is  inundated 
by  the  Orinoco  and  its  large  tributaries.  The  soil  is  fertile  in 
the  extreme ;  but  the  unhealthiness  of  the  climate  deters  settlers 
who  are  not  urged  by  extreme  necessity. 

Colombia  contains  some  of  the  most  important  rivers  of  the 
western  continent.  The  Orinoco  and  its  various  branches  drain 
its  central  and  eastern  sections.  The  south  is  watered  by  the 
mighty  Amazon,  and  some  of  its  great  tributaries ;  while  in  the 
west,  the  Magdalena,  now  navigated  by  steam-boats,  and  the 
Cauca,  convey  some  of  the  products  of  the  finest  and  best  set- 
tled districts  of  this  region  to  the  ocean. 

There  are  scarcely  any  lakes  of  importance,  except,  however, 
that  of  Maracaybo,  which,  though  it  communicates  with  the  sea, 
yet,  unless  in  strong  winds  blowing  from  thence,  preserves  its 
waters  fresh  and  unmixed.  There  are  also  dispersed  through- 
out the  territory  various  little  collections  of  water  on  the  de- 
clivities of  hills,  and  others  formed  by  the  expansions  of  rivers. 

This  territory  is  capable  of  supplying  in  the  utmost  variety 
and  abundance  the  richest  productions  of  the  vegetable  kingdom  ; 

250 


COLOMBIA.  213 

and  were  its  inhabitants  active  and  industrious,  like  those  of  the 
United  States  and  Great  Britain,  it  would  no  doubt  become  one 
of  the  richest  and  most  important  countries  in  the  world. 

The  cacao  of  Caraccas,  reckoned  the  best  in  America,  is  pro- 
duced to  the  amount  of  five  million  dollars.  Tobacco,  cotton, 
coffee,  sugar,  Peruvian  bark,  and  indigo,  all  find  most  favour- 
able soils.  The  latter  has  somewhat  declined,  and  is  not  pro- 
duced to  the  same  amount  as  formerly.  Wheat  and  other 
European  grains  are  raised  to  some  extent  on  the  table-land  of 
Bogota,  and  elsewhere  in  the  interior,  but  the  difficulty  of  com- 
munication between  the  inland  districts  and  the  coast,  has  ren- 
dered a  large  import  of  American  flour  into  the  sea-port  towns 
necessary. 

The  mineral  treasures  of  Colombia  are  varied  and  extensive. 
The  silver-mines  of  New  Grenada  yield  upwards  of  two  million 
dollars,  yearly.  Gold,  platina,  quicksilver,  copper,  and  lead, 
with  various  kinds  of  precious  stones,  are  also  found  in  New 
Grenada  ;  and  the  republic  of  Ecuador  yields  almost  the  same 
kind  of  precious  metals  and  gems.  Venezuela  is  the  least  pro- 
ductive in  minerals  of  any  part  of  Colombia,  yet  it  furnishes 
copper,  tin,  rock  crystal,  and  lapis  lazuli,  which  produces  the 
superb  colour  called  ultramarine.     Salt-mines  also  abound. 

Manufactures  can  scarcely  be  said  to  exist  in  Colombia,  in 
consequence  of  which  commerce  has  a  considerable  activity. 
From  the  total  want  of  domestic  manufactures,  almost  the 
whole  population  must  be  clothed  in  foreign  fabrics.  The  chief 
trade  is  with  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain.  The  princi- 
pal articles  shipped  from  Colombia  are,  coffee,  sugar,  cacao, 
hides,  sarsaparilla,  Peruvian  bark,  and  indigo.  The  internal 
traffic  will  probably  one  day  be  immense  upon  the  Orinoco,  the 
Apure,  Rio  Meta,  and  by  the  Cassiquiare  with  the  Rio  Negro 
and  the  Amazon :  but  all  the  regions  watered  by  these  mighty 
rivers  are  as  yet  little  better  than  deserts. 

The  Colombians  retain  much  of  the  gravity,  temperance,  and 
sobriety  of  the  Spaniards,  with  a  share  of  their  pride,  suspicious 
temper,  and  neglect  of  cleanliness.  A  courtesy  somewhat  stately 
and  studied  prevails  in  their  demeanour.  It  is  not  easy  to  gain 
their  confidence ;  but  when  that  is  once  obtained,  they  are  ex- 
tremely friendly  and  cordial.  They  are  hospitable  to  foreigners, 
whom,  from  national  pride,  however,  they  regard  with  secret 
jealousy. 

The  great  mass  of  the  people  were  kept  in  profound  ignorance 
during  the  three  centuries  of  Spanish  government.  Four-fifths 
of  the  inhabitants  did  not  even  learn  to  read  or  write  ;  and  the 
children  of  the  more  opulent  classes  were  only  taught  the  most 


214  SOUTH    AMERICA. 

common  branches  of  education ;  but  of  late  years,  great  pro- 
gress has  been  made  in  all  the  departments  of  knowledge  ;  free 
ingress  of  books  from  all  quarters,  the  establishment  of  news- 
papers and  journals,  and  the  liberty  of  the  press  which  now 
exists,  have  greatly  tended  to  enlighten  the  community. 

The  amusements  of  Colombia  are  chiefly  borrowed  from  the 
mother  country.  Dancing  is  passionately  practised,  in  the  seve- 
ral forms  of  the  fandango,  the  bolero,  and  the  Spanish  country- 
dance.  Bull  and  cock-fighting  are  equally  favourite  sports,  and 
tend  to  keep  alive  that  ferocity  which  is  the  main  blemish  in  the 
moral  character  of  the  Spaniards. 

The  races  are  as  numerous  and  as  variously  crossed  as  in 
Mexico.  The  negro  maintains  his  place  in  the  scale  of  human- 
ity ;  and  the  mulattoes,  Paez  and  Padilla,  have  ranked  among 
the  foremost  of  the  heroes  who  achieved  the  national  indepen- 
dence. 

Of  the  native  Indian  tribes  within  this  territory,  the  Caribs 
are  the  ruling  people.  They  inhabit  the  plains  of  the  Orinoco, 
and  were  once  found  in  the  West  Indies.  The  islanders,  now 
nearly  extinct,  are  represented  to  have  been  cannibals  ;  and 
the  tribes  of  the  continent  are  distinguished  for  their  fierceness 
and  warlike  propensities.  The  Ottomacs,  another  tribe  living 
upon  the  Orinoco,  present  the  singular  spectacle  of  mud-eaters, 
the  mud  of  that  river  forming,  during  the  inundation,  their  prin- 
cipal food.  The  Guarones  are  a  social  hospitable  tribe,  who 
inhabit  the  numerous  islands  in  the  Delta  of  the  Orinoco,  and 
act  as  pilots.  During  floods  they  lodge  in  dwellings  suspended 
from  the  trees. 


NEW  GRENADA. 


New  Grenada,  comprising  the  Spanish  viceroyalty  of  that 
name,  is  the  most  populous  and  powerful  of  the  Colombian  Re- 
publics.    It  is  not  wholly  a  South  American  state,  a  small  por 
tion  of  its  territory  extending  westward  from  the  Isthmus  of 
Darien  into  North  America. 

This  state  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Caribbean  Sea, 
south  by  the  Republic  of  Ecuador,  east  by  Venezuela,  and  west 
by  the  Pacific  Ocean.  It  includes  an  area  of  450,000  square 
miles,  and  contains  a  population  estimated  at  1,687,000  souls. 
New  Grenada  is  divided  into  five  departments,  which  are  subdi- 
vided into  eighteen  provinces. 


NEW   GRENADA.  215 

Departments.  Capitals.  Population. 

Isthmus Panama 10,000 

Magdalena Carthagena 18,000 

Boyaca Tunja 400 

Cundinamarca Bogota 30,000 

Cauca Popayan 20,000 

Bogota,  the  capital  of  New  Grenada,  is  situated  on  a  high  ta- 
ble-land, 8000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  This  plain,  though 
under  the  equator,  has  the  climate  of  Britain,  without  its  change 
of  seasons,  the  perpetual  temperature  being  that  of  spring  or  au- 
tumn, and  the  thermometer  seldom  falling  below  47°  or  rising 
above  70°. 

The  surrounding  country  is  distinguished  for  its  fertility,  yield- 
ing two  crops  in  the  year  of  the  principal  European  grains. 
It  is  hemmed  in  by  lofty  mountains,  rugged  precipices,  roaring 
torrents,  and  frightful  abysses.  The  city  was  founded  in  1538, 
by  Quesada,  and  for  a  time  rapidly  increased  :  it  is  now  supposed 
to  contain  30,000  inhabitants. 

Many  of  its  churches  are  not  only  splendid,  but  built  with 
some  taste ;  and  their  numerous  spires,  amid  the  grandeur  of  the 
surrounding  scenery,  give  it  a  fine  appearance.  It  contains  an 
university  and  archiepiscopal  see,  and  carries  on  a  considerable 
trade  in  cotton  goods,  hides,  and  grain. 

The  scenery  of  the  plain  of  Bogota  is  marked  by  many  strik- 
ing and  picturesque  features.  Among  these  are  particularly  con- 
spicuous the  Fall  of  Tequendama  and  the  natural  bridges  of  Ico- 
nonzo.  The  first  is  formed  by  the  river  Bogota.  Its  mass  of 
waters,  previously  spread  to  a  considerable  breadth,  are  contract- 
ed to  forty  feet,  and  dashed  down  a  precipice  650  feet  high,  into 
an  almost  fathomless  abyss.  The  bridge  of  Icononzo  is  a  natu- 
ral arch  across  a  chasm  360  feet  deep,  at  the  bottom  of  which 
flows  a  rapid  torrent,  which  would  have  been  otherwise  impas- 
sable. 

Honda,  the  port  of  Bogota,  is  situated  on  the  Magdalena  river, 
about  55  miles  north-west  from  the  capital :  it  carries  on  a 
considerable  trade,  with  a  population  of  about  10,000  inhabit- 
ants. The  town  has  some  good  buildings ;  the  climate  is  hot 
but  not  unhealthful,  and  the  banks  of  the  river  are  infested  with 
mosquitoes. 

Popayan  is  a  handsome  city,  built  more  regularly  and  elegantly 
than  Santa  Fe,  and  inhabited  by  many  opulent  merchants,  who 
have  suffered  severely  by  the  revolution.  Its  site  is  picturesque, 
and  the  climate  delicious,  notwithstanding  the  frequent  rains  and 
tempests.  It  enjoys  a  considerable  trade  in  European  merchan- 
dise, which  it  receives  from  Carthagena,  and  distributes  to  Quito 

W  253 


216  SOUTH    AMERICA. 

and  other  neighbouring  districts,  together  with  the  products  of 
its  fertile  soil. 

Pasto  is  a  considerable  town,  and  the  inhabitants  manufacture 
a  peculiar  species  of  cabinet-work  with  taste  and  elegance.  It 
is  surrounded  by  volcanoes,  and  is  accessible  only  through  rug- 
ged and  narrow  passes.  Previous  to  1834,  when  it  was  nearly 
destroyed  by  an  earthquake,  its  population  amounted  to  10,000. 
Carthagena,  long  considered  by  the  Spaniards  as  the  bulwark 
of  their  possessions  in  America,  has  lost  much  of  its  former  im- 
portance. The  fortifications  are  considerably  decayed,  yet  it  is 
the  chief  arsenal  of  the  republic.  The  packet-ships  which  main- 
tain the  intercourse  with  Europe  and  the  United  States,  sail  to 
and  from  Carthagena  ;  and  it  absorbs  most  of  the  commerce  of 
the  Magdalena  and  its  tributaries.  Its  population  is  supposed  to 
amount  to  about  18,000. 

Turbaco,  a  little  Indian  village  in  the  vicinity,  to  which  the 
wealthy  Carthagenians  retire  in  the  hot  season,  is  distinguished 
by  the  curious  phenomenon  of  the  volcancitos  (little  volcanoes,) 
consisting  of  about  20  cones,  from  20  to  25  feet  high,  whence 
issue  constant  eruptions  of  gas,  sometimes  accompanied  with  mud 
and  water. 

Mompox,  in  the  province  of  the  same  name,  derives  some  im- 
portance from  its  population  of  10,000  souls. 

Rio  Hacha  is  a  small  town  with  a  harbour,  and  once  the  seat 
of  a  pearl-fishery,  which  never  proved  very  successful.  Farther 
west  is  Santa  Martha,  situated  in  a  country  pervaded  by  a  de- 
tached range  of  lofty  mountains.  It  has  a  good  harbour,  is 
strongly  fortified,  and  carries  on  considerable  trade.  Its  popu- 
lation is  about  6,000  souls. 

Panama  and  Porto  Bello,  on  the  opposite  sides  of  the  isthmus, 
bore  a  great  name  in  America,  when  they  were  the  exclusive 
channel  by  which  the  wealth  of  Peru  was  conveyed  to  the  mo- 
ther country.  Within  the  last  fifty  years,  however,  these  places 
have  both  greatly  declined.  Panama  is  still  a  fortified  place, 
and  carries  on  some  trade.  It  contains  a  beautiful  cathedral, 
four  monasteries,  now  deserted,  and  other  large  buildings,  and 
maintains  a  population  of  10,000.  Porto  Bello,  so  called  from 
its  fine  harbour,  is  in  a  state  of  decay,  and  its  pestilential  climate 
has  given  it  the  name  of  the  grave  of  Europeans.  It  is  now  in- 
habited only  by  a  few  negroes  and  mulattoes.  Here  was  once 
held  the  richest  fair  in  America,  but  its  trade  is  now  chiefly  re- 
moved to  Chagres,  a  miserable  little  town  with  1000  inhabitants. 
There  have  been,  from  time  to  time,  various  projects  for  the 
construction  of  a  canal,  or  a  rail-road,  so  as  to  unite  the  Atlan 
tic  and  Pacific  oceans  at  this  narrow  neck  of  land.     But  the  po- 


SOUTH    AMERICA. 


Fall  of  Tequendama,  nine  miles  south  of  Bogota,  New  Grenada. 

The  Fall  of  Tequendama  is  formed  by  the  river  Bogota.    Its  stream,  contracted  from  a  con- 
siderable breadth  to  about  40  feet,  is  dashed  down  a  precipice  of  650  feet  in  depth. 


Bridges  of  Icononzo,  New  Grenada. 


^fS^ij^ 


Pass  of  the  Andes. 


The  Bridges  of  Icononzo  are  two  natural  arches  thrown  over  a  deep  narrow  chasm,  at  the 
bottom  of  which  flows  a  rapid  torrent.  The  upper  arch  is  360  feet  above  the  water,  and  is  40 
feet  wide  ;  the  other  arch  is  50  feet  lower.  This  remarkable  curiosity  is  about  40  miles  south 
of  Bogotu. 

Travellers  are  often  carried  over  the  most  rugged  passes  of  the  Andes  by  Indians,  who  hire 
themselves  for  that  purpose.  These  men  are  called  Silleros  ;  and  use  a  kind  of  chair,  that  is 
strapped  to  their  back,  in  which  the  travoller  sits.  Two  or  three  silleros  proceed  in  company, 
and  relieve  each  other  at  intervals. 

255 


SOUTH    AMERICA. 


Mount  Quindiu,  near  Popayan,  New  Grenada. 

Mount  Quindiu,  the  most  elevated  of  the  northern  Andes,  is  17,190  feet  high.    It  is  rioted  for 
the  quantities  of  gold  found  on  it,  and  in  its  vicinity. 


Cascade  of  Vinegar,  New  Grenada. 

The  Cascade  of  Vinegar  is  formed  by  a  small  stream,  near  Popayan,  that  rises  in  the  vol- 
canic mountain  Purace,  and  flows  into  the  Cauca  river.  The  water  is  so  impregnated  with 
acid  substances  from  the  volcano,  as  to  be  perceptibly  sour  to  the  taste.  From  this  circumstance 
the  cascade  derives  its  name. 

25C 


VENEZUELA.  217 

litical  state  of  the  country  is  as  yet  somewhat  unsettled ;  and 
hence  capitalists  are  deterred  from  advancing  the  necessary 
funds.  At  some  more  propitious  period,  when  affairs  shall  be 
permanently  tranquillized,  doubtless  such  a  communication  will 
be  opened. 


VENEZUELA. 

The  republic  of  Venezuela,  consisting  of  the  former  cap- 
taincy-general of  Caraccas,  to  which  was  attached  the  exten- 
sive tract  known  under  the  name  of  Spanish  Guiana,  extends 
from  the  Orinoco  to  the  gulf  of  Venezuela.  It  stretches  over 
an  area  of  420,000  square  miles,  and  is  divided  into  four  de- 
partments, which  are  subdivided  into  12  provinces,  with  a 
population  estimated  at  about  900,000. 

Departments.  Capitals.  Population. 

Orinoco   Varinas 3,000 

Maturin Cumana    10,000 

Venezuela    Caraccas 23,000 

Zulia    Maracaybo 20,000 

This  republic  comprises  the  most  extensive  part  of  Colombia , 
a  range  of  mountains,  the  north-eastern  chain  of  the  Andes,  ex- 
tends from  New  Grenada  along  the  whole  of  the  north  coast. 
It  is  known  by  the  name  of  the  Cordillera  of  Caraccas  or  Ven- 
ezuela ;  and  some  of  its  summits  attain  an  elevation  of  18,000 
feet.  The  chief  part  of  this  region,  however,  forms  a  plain  of 
immense  extent,  reaching  to  a  great  distance  southward.  It  is 
divided  into  three  parts,  distinguished  by  the  most  marked  con- 
trasts both  natural  and  social.  The  first  comprises  the  forest 
territory  beyond  the  Orinoco.  It  exists  in  an  entirely  unsub- 
dued and  savage  state,  peopled  by  the  Caribs  and  other  tribes, 
who  roam  from  place  to  place,  and  wage  almost  continual  war 
with  each  other. 

The  second  part  consists  of  the  Llanos,  boundless  plains, 
where  the  eye,  in  the  compass  of  a  wide  horizon,  often  does  not 
discover  an  eminence  of  six  feet.  Like  the  Pampas  of  La 
Plata,  they  are  covered  with  the  most  luxuriant  pastures,  on 
which  it  is  estimated  1,200,000  oxen,  180,000  horses,  and 
90,000  mules  are  fed.  Some  of  the  great  proprietors  possess 
from  10,000  to  20,000  head  of  cattle.  The  export  of  the  hides 
of  these  animals  forms  one  of  the  principal  branches  of  the 
commerce  of  Venezuela. 

The  third  division,  consisting  of  a  coast  about  600  miles  long, 

19  W*  257 


218  SOUTH    AMERICA. 

and  the  territory  immediately  between  it  and  the  mountains,  includes 
all  that  exhibits  any  degree  of  culture  or  civilization.  Here  the 
West  India  products,  and  particularly  cacao  of  superior  quality, 
are  cultivated  to  a  considerable  extent ;  and  a  trade  is  carried 
on,  which,  though  interrupted  by  the  revolutionary  war  and 
other  calamities,  is  likely,  in  periods  of  tranquillity,  to  be  re- 
vived and  extended. 

Caraccas,  situated  a  few  miles  from  the  coast,  has  always  been 
the  capital  of  Venezuela,  and  previous  to  1812  was  a  very 
large  city,  containing  above  40,000  inhabitants.  On  the  26th 
of  March,  it  was  overthrown  by  one  of  the  most  dreadful  earth- 
quakes recorded  in  either  hemisphere.  Several  of  the  loftiest 
churches  fell,  burying  3000  or  4000  of  the  inhabitants,  and  they 
were  so  completely  destroyed,  that  none  of  the  fragments  were 
more  than  five  or  six  feet  above  the  ground.  Nearly  10,000 
persons  perished  on  the  spot,  besides  many  more  who  died  af- 
terwards, in  consequence  of  wounds  and  pi'ivations.  The  agi- 
tation of  the  revolutionary  contest  obstructed  the  revival  of 
Caraccas,  and  in  1830  it  did  not  contain  above  23,000  inhabi- 
tants. 

La  Guayra,  about  twelve  miles  from  Caraccas,  of  which  it  is 
the  port,  notwithstanding  its  unhealthful  climate  and  bad  har- 
bour, is  the  seat  of  a  very  considerable  trade.  Similar  disasters 
have  reduced  it  from  a  population  of  13,000  to  scarcely  5000 ; 
but  it  is  now  reviving. 

Several  large  cities  occur  on  the  long  line  of  coast  which  ex- 
tends westward  from  Caraccas.-  Valencia  flourishes  in  conse- 
quence of  the  fine  interior  territory,  the  trade  of  which  is  con- 
ducted through  it ;  and  it  is  supposed  to  maintain  a  population 
of  about  15,000.  Its  port,  about  ten  leagues  distant,  called 
Puerto  Cabello,  has  an  admirable  harbour,  but  is  extremely  un- 
healthful. Coro,  once  the  capital  of  Venezuela,  having  lost 
that  distinction,  and  a  great  part  of  its  trade,  is  now  much  de- 
cayed ;  yet  it  contains  a  population  of  20,000.  Maracaybo 
contains  many  descendants  of  the  early  conquerors,  who  live 
in  proud  indolence.  The  rest  of  the  inhabitants  gain  wealth  by 
traffic ;  and  the  whole  are  supposed  to  be  about  20,000. 

Cumana,  situated  on  an  extensive  and  fertile  plain,  to  the  east- 
ward of  Caraccas,  is  bounded  by  a  curtain  of  rude  mountains 
covered  by  luxuriant  forests.  Numerous  herds  run  wild  on  its 
savannahs ;  and  in  the  plain  on  the  coast  very  fine  tobacco  is 
cultivated.  It  has  a  very  spacious  and  noble  harbour,  and  the 
gulf  on  which  it  is  situated  affords  good  anchorage.  Mules, 
cattle,  and  provisions,  are  exported  to  the  West  Indies.  The  in- 
habitants amount  to  10,000.     Cumana  has  suffered  dreadfully 


ECUADOR.  219 

by  earthquakes.  New  Barcelona,  to  the  westward  of  Cumana, 
on  an  extensive  plain  overrun  by  wild  cattle,  carries  on  a  simi- 
lar trade,  which  supports  a  population  of  about  5000.  In  the 
island  of  Margarita  is  the  little  town  of  Pampatar,  which  has 
been  declared  a  free  port. 

The  great  plains  in  the  interior  of  Venezuela  and  on  the 
Orinoco,  possessing  neither  manufactures  nor  commerce,  cannot 
contain  cities  of  any  magnitude;  yet  Varinaswas  reckoned  a 
neat  and  handsome  place,  and,  notwithstanding  severe  losses 
during  the  revolutionary  war,  has  still  3000  inhabitants.  San 
Fernando  derives  some  importance  from  the  commerce  of  the 
Apure,  on  which  it  is  situated.  Angostura,  the  only  city  yet 
founded  on  the  Orinoco,  notwithstanding  recent  losses,  is  still 
about  equal  to  Varinas,  and  is  the  seat  of  a  bishop  and  a  college. 


ECUADOR. 

The  republic  of  Ecuador,  comprising  the  old  Spanish  presi- 
dency of  Quito,  which  was  annexed  to  the  vice-royalty  of  New 
Grenada,  in  1718,  lies  on  both  sides  of  the  equator.  The  civil- 
ized part  of  the  population  is  confined  to  the  western  coast  and 
the  valleys  of  the  Andes,  while  the  eastern  portion  of  the  terri- 
tory is  occupied  by  independent  tribes  of  Indians.  This  state  is 
bounded  north  by  New  Grenada,  south  by  Peru,  east  by  Brazil, 
and  west  by  the  Pacific  ocean.  The  area  is  about  280,000 
square  miles.  It  is  divided  into  three  departments,  which  are 
subdivided  into  eight  provinces,  with  a  population  of  about  600,000. 

Departments.  Capitals.  Population. 

Ecuador Quito 70,000 

Guayaquil   Guayaquil   20,000 

Assuay Cuen^a 20,000 

The  department  of  the  Ecuador  forms  the  finest  table-plain 
in  all  America.  It  has  an  average  breadth  of  about  thirty  miles, 
enclosed  between  two  parallel  ranges  of  the  loftiest  Andes.  The 
climate  is  that  of  a  perpetual  spring,  at  once  benign  and  equal, 
and  even  during  the  four  months  of  rain,  the  mornings  and 
evenings  are  clear  and  beautiful.  Vegetation  never  ceases  ;  the 
country  is  called  the  evergreen  Quito ;  the  trees  and  meadows 
are  crowned  with  perpetual  verdure.  The  European  sees  with 
astonishment  the  plough  and  the  sickle  at  once  in  equal  activity ; 
herbs  of  the  same  species  here  fading  through  age,  there  begin- 
ning to  bud ;  one  flower  drooping,  and  its  sister  unfolding  its 
beauties  to  the  sun. 


220  SOUTH   AMERICA. 

But  the  feature  which  renders  the  view  from  Quito  the  most 
enchanting,  perhaps,  that  ever  the  eye  beheld,  is,  that  above  its 
beautiful  valley,  and  resting,  as  it  were,  on  its  verdant  hills, 
there  rise  all  the  loftiest  volcanic  cones  of  the  Andes.  From 
one  point  of  view  eleven  may  be  discovered,  clad  in  perpetual 
snow. 

The  productions  of  Quito  are  equally  various  as  at  Bogota, 
all  gradations  of  climate  occurring  in  a  similar  proximity  ;  but 
the  most  valuable  are  those  of  the  temperate  climates :  grain, 
fruits,  and  rich  pasturage. 

Quito,  situated  on  the  side  of  Pichincha,  more  than  9000  feet 
above  the  sea,  is  one  of  the  finest  and  largest  cities  in  the  New 
World.  It  has  four  streets,  broad,  handsome,  and  well  paved, 
and  three  spacious  squares,  in  which  the  principal  convents  and 
dwelling-houses  are  situated  ;  but  the  rest,  extending  up  the 
sides  of  the  Pichincha,  are  crooked  and  irregular.  The  churches 
and  convents  are  built  with  great  magnificence,  and  even  some 
taste.  Quito  has  two  universities,  which  are  numerously  attend- 
ed and  carefully  conducted  ;  and  it  is  considered  comparatively 
as  a  sort  of  South  American  Athens.  The  inhabitants  are 
gay,  volatile,  hospitable,  and  courteous. 

Latacunga,  50  miles  south  from  Quito,  is  a  place  of  some 
importance,  with  16,000  inhabitants.  Riobambo,  90  miles  south 
of  Quito,  is  a  large  and  handsome  town.  The  streets  are  wide 
and  straight ;  the  buildings  of  stone  and  mortar,  but  low  on  ac- 
count of  earthquakes.  It  has  several  manufactories  of  cloth, 
baizes,  &c.  The  town  has  been  twice  (in  the  years  1698  and 
1746,)  almost  ruined  by  eruptions  from  mount  Chimborazo. 
Population,  20,000. 

Cuenca,  150  miles  south  of  Quito,  is  a  town  of  20,000  in- 
habitants. The  streets  are  straight  and  broad,  and  the  houses 
mostly  built  of  adobes,  or  unburnt  bricks.  The  environs  are  fer- 
tile and  pleasant.  Otavala  has  from  15,000  to  20,000  inhabitants, 
with  some  manufactures  of  cotton  goods.  The  country  in  its 
vicinity  is  well  adapted  for  pasturage,  and  abounds  in  cattle. 
Large  quantities  of  cheese  are  also  made  in  the  neighbourhood. 
It  is  north-east  of  Quito. 

Guayaquil,  on  the  bay  of  the  same  name,  founded  by  Pizarro 
in  1533,  contains  20,000  inhabitants,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
flourishing  commercial  cities  in  South  America.  The  houses 
stand  in  fine  picturesque  confusion,  along  the  sides  and  the  top 
of  a  hill ;  they  are  handsome  and  commodious;  but  none  of 
the  public  edifices  are  very  splendid.  The  animal  food  is  not  of 
very  good  quality ;  but  nowhere  does  there  exist  a  finer  fruit 
market.     Guayaquil,    like  Egypt,    has   its   plagues.     The   air 


GUIANA.  221 

swarms  with  mosquitoes  and  other  flies  still  more  tormenting ; 
the  ground  teems  with  snakes,  centipedes,  and  other  reptiles, 
whose  bite  causes  fever  and  inflammation  ,•  and  the  shores  are 
crowded  with  alligators,  whose  number  cannot,  by  the  utmost 
exertion,  be  kept  within  any  tolerable  limits.  The  beauty  of 
the  ladies  of  Guayaquil  is  celebrated  throughout  all  America : 
they  have  complexions  as  fair  as  any  European,  with  blue  eyes 
and  light  hair.  They  have  also  an  agreeable  gaiety,  joined  to 
a  propriety  of  conduct,  which  renders  the  society  of  this  place 
particularly  engaging. 

About  170  leagues  west  of  the  coast  is  the  fine  group  of  the 
Galapagos  (Tortoise)  islands,  deriving  their  name  from  the 
abundance  of  a  gigantic  species  of  land  tortoise,  called  the 
elephant  tortoise.  The  islands,  which  enjoy  a  delightful  climate 
and  a  fertile  soil,  have  recently  been  occupied  by  a  colony  from 
Guayaquil. 


GUIANA. 

Guiana  was  once  more  extensive  than  at  present :  it  included 
the  whole  of  that  portion  of  South  America  lying  between  the 
Orinoco  and  the  Amazon  rivers,  of  which  the  northern  part, 
called  Spanish  Guiana,  now  belongs  to  Venezuela,  and  the  south- 
ern, known  as  Portuguese  Guiana,  is  attached  to  the  Brazilian 
province  of  Para. 

The  region  at  present  styled  Guiana,  extends  along  the  coast 
from  Cape  Barrima,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Orinoco,  to  the  Oyapock 
river,  a  distance  of  about  750  miles,  and  extending  in  the  inte- 
rior, to  the  mountains  at  the  source  of  the  Essequibo,  Surinam, 
and  Maroni  rivers,  350  miles ;  comprising  an  area  of  about. 
160,000  square  miles.  Along  the  sea-shore  the  country  pre- 
sents the  appearance  of  an  extensive  and  uniform  plain.  The 
soil  is  surprisingly  fertile,  and  a  most  luxuriant  vegetation  almost 
everywhere  overspreads  the  country. 

This  region  is  at  present  divided  between  the  British,  Dutch, 
and  French.  The  colonies  of  Essequibo,  Demerara  and  Ber- 
bice,  belong  to  Great  Britain;  Surinam  to  Holland  ;  and  Cayenne 
to  France. 

British  Guiana  contains  a  population  of  97,000  persons,  of 
whom  only  3529  are  whites.  Surinam  has  a  population  of  about 
60,000,  of  whom  55,000  are  slaves.  The  inhabitants  of  Cay- 
enne number  about  25,000,  of  whom  3786  are  whites  ;  making  a 
total  for  the  population  of  Guiana,  of  182,000  persons,  exclusive 
of  the  revolted  negroes  and  Indians  in  the  interior. 

19*  261 


222  SOUTH   AMERICA. 

Essequibo,  Demerara,  and  Berbice,  belonged  to  the  Dutch  till 
the  last  war,  when  they  were  conquered  by  Great  Britain  and 
were  confirmed  to  that  power  by  the  treaty  of  1814. 

The  territory  is  low,  flat,  alluvial,  and  in  many  parts  swampy ; 
and  the  greater  portion,  when  it  came  into  the  possession  of  its 
present  owners,  was  covered  with  dense  and  almost  impenetrable 
forests.  Since  that  time  a  vast  improvement  has  taken  place ; 
British  industry  has  cut  down  the  woods,  and,  availing  itself  of 
the  natural  fertility  of  the  soil,  has  rendered  this  one  of  the  most 
productive  regions  in  the  New  World.  Demarara  ranks,  as  to 
produce,  second  only  to  Jamaica  :  its  rum  is  inferior  only  to  hers ; 
and  the  coffee  of  Berbice  ranks  above  that  of  any  of  the  American 
islands. 

Georgetown,  the  capital  of  British  Guiana,  is  built  on  the  low 
bank  of  the  river  Demerara.  It  contains  10,000  inhabitants, 
mostly  negroes,  with  a  considerable  proportion  of  people  of  co- 
lour. New  Amsterdam,  the  chief  town  of  Berbice,  is  agreeably 
situated,  intersected  by  canals,  and  with  a  considerable  spot  of 
ground  attached  to  each  house. 

Agriculture  is  carried  on  in  British  Guiana  on  a  great  scale ; 
many  of  the  plantations  have  from  500  to  1500  labourers  ;  and 
upwards  of  200,000  dollars  have  often  been  laid  out  in  the  em- 
bankments and  buildings  of  a  new  estate,  before  any  returns 
whatever  were  received ;  the  profits,  however,  are  always  remu- 
nerating, and  frequently  great. 

Surinam  constitutes  the  most  important  part  of  the  Dutch 
western  possessions.  Its  coast,  like  that  of  the  rest  of  Guiana,  is 
flat  and  alluvial,  and  is  traversed  by  several  broad  rivers,  coming 
from  a  considerable  distance  in  the  interior.  That  of  Surinam 
has  a  channel  about  four  miles  wide,  but  shallow  and  rocky, 
navigable  only  for  boats. 

Paramaribo,  the  capital  of  Surinam,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
where  it  affords  excellent  anchorage  for  vessels,  is  a  considera- 
ble town,  well  built  of  wood,  and  arranged  in  regular  streets, 
adorned  with  fine  trees.  Its  commerce,  though  now  surpassed 
by  that  carried  on  in  British  Guiana,  is  considerable,  and  sup- 
ports a  population  of  18,000  or  20,000  persons. 

Cayenne  is  bounded  west  by  Surinam,  on  the  south  and  east 
by  Brazil,  and  on  the  north  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  It  is  an  al- 
luvial, swampy  region,  covered  with  majestic  forests. 

Fine  aromatics,  unknown  to  the  other  regions  of  the  west, 
have  been  cultivated  here  with  success.  The  Cayenne-pepper  is 
the  most  pungent  and  delicate  kind  of  that  spice ;  and  the  clove, 
long  exclusively  attached  to  the  Moluccas,  has  succeeded  so  well, 
that  a  part  of  the  consumption  of  Europe  is  supplied  from  Cay- 


PERU.  223 

enne.     The  annual  value  of  the  exports  to  France  is  500,000 
dollars  ;  of  imports,  350,000  dollars. 

Cayenne  Proper  consists  of  an  alluvial  island,  about  eighteen 
miles  long  and  ten  broad,  formed  by  the  branches  of  the  river  of 
that  name,  on  which  is  Cayenne,  the  capital  of  the  colony,  a 
small  town  neatly  built  of  wood,  with  a  spacious  and  commodi- 
ous road,  and  a  population  of  3000.  There  are  also  some  small 
settlements  scattered  along  the  coast. 


PERU. 

Peru  comprises  the  states  now  called  North  Peru  and  South 
Peru.  Of  all  the  countries  of  South  America,  this  is  the  most 
celebrated  for  its  wealth  and  ancient  civilization ;  and  its  very 
name  has  been  long  proverbially  used  to  denote  abundance  of 
the  precious  metals. 

This  region  is  often  called  Lower  Peru,  to  distinguish  it  from 
Bolivia,  formerly  known  by  the  name  of  Upper  Peru.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  west  by  the  Pacific  Ocean,  the  coast  of  which  is 
nearly  2000  miles  in  extent.  On  the  north  is  the  Republic  of 
Ecuador,  on  the  south  Chili,  and  on  the  east  Brazil  and  Bolivia. 
The  breadth  of  Peru  is  extremely  irregular,  varying  from  100  to 
800  miles ;  area,  about  430,000  square  miles. 

The  Andes  range  through  the  whole  extent  of  this  country. 
The  principal  chain  runs  nearly  parallel  to  the  coast,  and  con- 
tains the  loftiest  summits,  which  are  always  covered  with  per- 
petual snow.  Other  ranges  of  less  elevation  extend  in  the  inte- 
rior of  the  country  between  the  chief  branches  of  the  Amazon. 

On  the  coast  of  Peru  the  climate  is  hot  and  nearly  uniform  in 
temperature ;  rain  seldom  falls,  but  the  dews  are  heavy  and 
abundant,  and  thunder  and  lightning  are  almost  unknown.  On 
the  high  table-lands,  between  the  ridges  of  the  mountains,  the 
climate  is  various,  and  the  products  are  chiefly  those  of  temper- 
ate regions.  Eastward  of  the  Andes  the  country  declines  into 
the  vast  grassy  plains,  or  pampas,  which  cover  all  the  interior 
parts  of  South  America. 

The  inland  districts  of  this  country  are  traversed  by  the  great- 
est rivers  in  the  world.  The  Amazon  commences  its  unrivalled 
course  among  the  Peruvian  Andes,  and  with  its  numerous 
branches,  collecting  the  waters  of  a  thousand  floods,  rolls  its 
mighty  volume  eastward  to  the  ocean.  The  Ucayale,  the  head 
stream  of  the  Amazon,  has  within  a  few  years  been  examined 
with  a  view  to  the  commencement  of  steam  navigation  from  the 


224  SOUTH    AMERICA. 

sea  to  the  interior  settlements  of  Peru.  The  disordered  condi- 
tion, however,  of  the  governments  of  this  and  the  adjacent  states 
operates  at  present  against  the  introduction  of  this  powerful  agent 
in  the  cause  of  civilization  and  improvement. 

The  nature  of  the  coast  on  the  Pacific  Ocean  is  by  no  means 
favourable  to  navigation  ;  it  affords  no  good  harbour  except  Cal-  . 
lao,  which  admits  the  largest  merchant-vessels.  There  is  also 
on  every  part  of  the  shore  such  a  tremendous  surf,  caused  by  the 
uninterrupted  swell  from  the  sea,  that  no  communication  can  be 
had  with  the  land  by  boats  of  the  common  construction.  The 
natives,  however,  have  a  contrivance,  called  a  balsa,  consisting 
of  two  seal-skins  lashed  together  and  covered  with  a  sort  of  plat- 
form, on  which  sits  the  pilot  of  this  strange  craft.  Being  blown 
up  by  the  breath  of  the  navigator,  these  balsas  are  so  buoyant  as 
to  pass  the  most  terrific  breakers  in  safety. 

The  plain  on  the  sea-coast  is  chiefly  a  dry  sandy  desert,  inter- 
sected in  various  parts  by  the  broad  and  rapid  torrents  which  de- 
scend from  the  mountains.  Here,  where  the  soil  can  be  watered, 
the  vegetation  is  most  abundant,  and  surprises  the  traveller  by 
the  pleasing  change  from  the  sterility  of  the  desert  to  the  bright 
and  luxuriant  verdure  that  prevails. 

The  precious  metals  have  long  been  the  source  of  unrivalled 
wealth  to  Peru.  The  mines  are  seated  in  the  inmost  depth  of  the 
Andes,  approached  only  by  steep  and  perilous  passes,  and  in 
mountains  which  reach  the  limit  of  perpetual  snow. 

Gold,  silver,  and  mercury  have  been  the  most  extensively 
worked,  but  other  metals  are  abundant.  Owing  to  the  disasters 
of  the  late  revolution,  and  the  exhaustion  of  the  capital  employed, 
the  mines  of  this  country,  formerly  so  rich  and  productive,  have 
fallen  into  decay  and  scarcely  produce  more  than  the  one-fifth 
or  sixth  of  their  former  wealth. 

Operations  in  many  of  the  mines  were  entirely  suspended  for 
a  number  of  years ;  but  the  works  of  the  most  productive  have 
been  lately  resumed.  The  richest  silver-mines  are  those  of  Cerro 
Pasco,  Chota,  Puno,  and  Huantaya.  Gold  is  obtained  at  many 
places  by  washing  the  sands  of  the  rivers,  and  mercury  or  quick- 
silver, once  obtained  at  Guancavelica  in  immense  amounts,  is  now 
procured  in  comparatively  but  small  quantities,  in  consequence 
of  the  most  valuable  parts  of  the  works  having  fallen  in. 

Agriculture,  in  consequence  of  the  peculiar  nature  of  the 
country,  is  carried  on  in  Peru  only  to  a  limited  extent,  but  under 
favourable  circumstances  the  produce  is  most  abundant.  Indian- 
corn  is  the  staple  grain  and  chief  food  of  the  natives,  and  is  also 
made  into  a  fermented  liquor  called  Chica.  The  sugar-cane, 
cotton,  and  coffee  are  cultivated,  and  the  fruits  of  almost  every 


PERU.  225 

climate,  from  the  successive  slope  of  the  Andes,  are  carried  down 
to  the  markets  of  Lima  and  the  other  towns. 

Some  valuable  dye-woods  and  medicinal  plants  are  also  pro- 
duced, particularly  the  Peruvian  bark  or  Cascarilla.  Wine  and 
brandy  are  made  to  some  extent,  but  wheat  and  flour  are  import- 
ed from  Chili. 

Manufactures  are  in  a  backward  state.  In  the  mountain  dis- 
tricts are  made  considerable  quantities  of  coarse  woollens,  blank- 
ets, flannels,  baize,  and  particularly  ponchos,  a  loose  riding-cloak, 
generally  worn  throughout  Spanish  America,  and  sometimes 
made  of  great  fineness.  A  few  towns  on  the  coast  manufacture 
cottons.  Goat-skins  are  made  into  good  cordovan.  The  Indians 
execute  very  fine  filigree-work  in  gold  and  silver,  and  their  mats 
and  other  articles  of  furniture  made  from  grass  and  rushes  are 
very  much  admired.  In  general,  however,  the  Peruvians  look 
to  Europe  for  a  supply  of  all  the  finer  manufactures. 

The  commerce  of  Peru,  though  much  depressed  during  the 
contest  with  Spain,  is  reviving,  and  is  carried  on  to  some  extent. 
It  consists  for  the  most  part  of  the  export  of  gold,  silver,  copper, 
and  tin,  with  some  bark,  cotton,  sugar,  vicuna  wool,  &c.  The 
imports  consist  of  a  variety  of  articles  of  European  manufacture. 
English  goods  are  generally  preferred,  and  almost  all  kinds  find 
a  ready  sale. 

The  religion,  as  in  every  country  over  which  Spain  ever  reign- 
ed, is  exclusively  Catholic.  Many  of  the  churches  in  Peru  are 
very  splendid,  and  immense  wealth  has  been  accumulated  by 
several  of  the  convents,  from  pious  donations.  The  archbishop 
of  Lima  is  the  head  of  the  church  in  Peru,  and  also  in  Bolivia, 
Chili,  and  part  of  Colombia.  There  are  many  curates  in  the 
interior  districts,  and  some  missionaries  are  stationed  amongst 
the  independent  Indian  tribes. 

Literature  is  not  in  so  utterly  depressed  a  state  at  Lima  as  in 
the  other  cities  to  the  south  of  the  Isthmus  of  Darien.  Besides 
several  colleges,  there  is  a  highly-endowed  university,  founded 
in  1549,  on  the  model  of  that  of  Salamanca.  The  professors  do 
not  deliver  lectures  ;  but  examinations  and  disputations  are  main- 
tained with  considerable  diligence. 

The  amusements  consist  of  the  theatre,  which,  at  Lima,  is  tol- 
erably conducted ;  bull-fights,  cock-fights,  and  religious  proces- 
sions ;  and  the  rage  for  public  diversions  is  extreme. 

The  population  of  Peru  consists  of  the  various  races  usually 
found  in  South  America; — whites,  Indians,  negroes;  and  the 
mixed  races, — mulattoes,  mestizos,  and  zamboes.  The  creole 
or  white  population,  is  usually  described  in  less  flattering  terms 
than  the  same  class  in  almost  any  of  the  other  South  American 

X  265 


226  SOUTH   AMERICA. 

states.  The  males,  especially  of  Lima,  are  said  to  be  destitute 
of  all  energy,  both  mental  and  bodily,  so  that  notwithstanding 
the  extensive  trade  of  the  country,  very  little  is  carried  on  by 
native  Peruvians.  Those  engaged  in  it  are  chiefly  foreigners, 
many  of  whom  are  natives  of  Chili  and  Buenos  Ayres. 

The  ladies,  from  their  earliest  years,  are  led  to  consider  them- 
selves as  the  objects  of  admiration  and  homage,  and  a  system  of 
coquetry  and  flirtation  is  established.  Gaming  prevails  also 
among  both  sexes  to  a  destructive  extent,  and  families  are  ex- 
tremely ill-managed.  Yet  the  Peruvians  are  courteous,  humane, 
hospitable,  and  generous.  In  the  country,  these  amiable  quali- 
ties are  combined  with  equal  merit,  but  with  a  greater  degree  of 
simplicity. 

The  ancestors  of  the  present  Indians  of  Peru  were  the  Qui- 
chuas,  the  most  civilized  nation  of  South  America  at  the  time  of 
the  arrival  of  the  Spaniards.  According  to  their  traditions,  arts, 
laws,  and  religion  had  been  introduced  among  them  by  Manco 
Capac,  the  child  of  the  sun,  whose  descendants  still  reigned  over 
the  country  under  the  title  of  Incas. 

There  are  yet  many  remarkable  monuments  remaining  of  this 
interesting  people,  such  as  roads,  canals,  temples,  palaces,  for- 
tresses, &c.  They  were  acquainted  with  the  arts  of  mining,  of 
working  in  gold  and  silver,  of  polishing  precious  stones,  manu- 
facturing cloth,  &c.  Although  ignorant  of  alphabetic  writing, 
they  preserved  the  memory  of  remarkable  events,  laws,  treaties, 
&c,  by  means  of  symbolical  paintings,  and  of  quipos  or  knotted 
cords  of  various  colours,  which  expressed  different  ideas. 


PERU-BOLIVIAN  CONFEDERATION. 

The  states  of  North  Peru,  South  Peru,  and  Bolivia  were  uni- 
ted in  the  year  1836,  for  the  purpose  of  general  security  and  pro- 
tection, into  a  league  or  union,  styled  the  Peru-Bolivian  Confed- 
eration. 

Each  state  is  independent  in  its  local  concerns ;  is  controlled 
by  the  acts  of  its  own  legislature,  and  governed  by  its  own  Pre- 
sident ;  but  for  the  regulation  of  affairs  with  foreign  nations  and 
other  general  purposes,  the  confederation  is  placed  under  the 
government  of  a  chief,  called  the  Supreme  Protector,  and  a  gen- 
eral congress  of  plenipotentiaries  from  the  three  states. 

General  Santa  Cruz,  president  of  Bolivia,  was  chosen  Supreme 
Protector  of  this  new  republic  ;  but  his  government  was  scarcely 
organized  when  it  was  embarrassed  by  a  revolution,  which  broke 


NORTH   PERU.  227 

out  in  Lima  in  July,  1838,  against  the  confederation.  In  the 
following  month,  a  Chilian  expedition  landed  at  Callao  and  cap- 
tured Lima.  General  Santa  Cruz,  in  the  mean  time,  hastened 
with  an  army  from  Bolivia  for  the  purpose  of  repelling  the  in- 
vaders ;  but  he  was  opposed,  and  completely  defeated  by  them,  at 
Yungay,  in  North  Peru,  January  20th,  1839.  The  Supreme 
Protector  escaped  from  the  field  with  an  escort  of  only  20  men, 
arrived  at  Lima  the  following  day,  and  has  since  left  the  country. 
The  government  of  the  Union,  during  its  brief  existence,  had 
effected  treaties  of  amity  and  commerce  with  the  United  States 
and  Great  Britain  ;  the  former  of  which  was  ratified  by  the  Pre- 
sident and  Congress  of  the  United  States.  Though  no  official 
announcement  of  the  termination  of  the  government  of  this  con- 
federacy has  been  publicly  made,  yet  it  is  supposed  to  be,  if  not 
actually  dissolved,  at  least  suspended. 


NORTH    PERU. 

North  Peru  contains  rather  more  than  two-thirds  of  the 
territory  which  formed  the  republic  of  Peru  previous  to  the  year 
1836  ;  and  in  consequence  of  the  formation  of  the  four  southern 
departments  into  a  separate  state,  has  assumed  its  present  dis- 
tinctive title. 

It  comprises  almost  1000  miles  of  sea-coast,  and  extends  into 
the  interior  from  500  to  800  miles :  it  has  an  area  of  about 
300,000  square  miles,  with  a  population  of  700,000.  A  large 
portion  of  the  east  part  of  this  republic  is  unsettled  and  even 
unexplored  by  Europeans,  being  still  in  the  possession  of  the 
aborigines,  of  whom  many  of  the  tribes  are  stated  to  be  exceed- 
ingly savage,  and  some  of  them  cannibals. 

The  republic  is  divided  into  three  departments,  which  are  sub- 
divided into  provinces. 

Departments.  Capitals.  Population. 

Truxillo,  or  Libertad Truxillo     12,000 

Lima Lima 70,000 

Junin Tarma 5,000 

Lima,  next  to  Mexico  the  most  splendid  city  of  Spanish  America, 
is  situated  about  six  miles  in  the  interior,  from  its  port  of  Callao, 
and  is  surrounded  by  a  wall  of  brick  and  clay,  twelve  feet  high. 
The  houses  run  in  straight  lines,  dividing  the  city  into  a  multi- 
tude of  squares  of  various  forms  and  dimensions.     The  plaza 


228  SOUTH    AMERICA. 

or  principal  square,  is,  as  in  most  Spanish  cities,  surrounded  by 
all  the  finest  edifices. 

The  cathedral  is  an  elegant  building,  with  a  stone  front,  and 
two  towers  of  considerable  height ;  and  the  interior,  particularly 
the  great  altar,  is,  or  at  least  was,  exceedinlgy  rich.  There  are 
twenty-five  convents  in  Lima,  with  churches  attached  to  them  ; 
and  fifteen  nunneries.  The  convent  of  St.  Francisco,  with  its 
appendages,  is  the  most  extensive,  and,  though  not  so  rich,  is 
more  elegant  than  the  cathedral.  An  immense  treasure  in  the 
precious  metals  was  contained  in  these  establishments ;  but 
during  the  disorders  of  the  civil  contests  the  gold  and  silver  of 
the  church  were  made  to  give  place  to  less  precious  metals, 
though  the  base  materials  substituted  have  been  carefully  gilded 
over.     The  population  of  Lima  is  about  70,000. 

Callao,  communicating  with  Lima  by  a  very  fine  road,  has  an 
excellent  harbour  formed  by  two  islands.  The  forts  by  which 
it  is  defended  are  handsome  and  strong ;  and  Callao  itself  is  a 
considerable  town,  with  6000  inhabitants. 

On  the  coast  to  the  north  of  Lima  is  Truxillo,  a  handsome 
little  town,  a  miniature  of  Lima,  and  built  in  the  same  gay  style. 
By  its  port  of  Guanchaco,  which  has  a  tolerable  roadstead, 
Truxillo  sends  the  produce  of  its  territory  to  Lima,  and  receives 
foreign  manufactured  goods  in  return.  It  contains  about  12,000 
inhabitants.  Sanna  is  the  seat  of  a  considerable  trade ;  and 
Lambayeque,  to  the  north  of  Truxillo,  is  the  most  thriving  place 
between  Lima  and  Guayaquil.  Piura,  still  farther  north,  is  gen- 
erally accounted  the  most  ancient  city  in  South  America,  though 
it  is  not  exactly  on  the  site  of  the  city  founded  by  Pizarro. 

Payta  is  a  commodious  and  well-frequented  sea-port,  which  is 
often  visited  by  American  whale-ships.  It  being  in  a  complete 
desert  of  sand,  potable  water  is  brought  from  a  distance  of  twelve 
miles,  and  sold  at  a  high  price. 

Caxamarca  is  distinguished  as  having  contained  a  palace  of 
the  ancient  Incas,  and  being  the  spot  where  Atahualpa,  the  last 
of  the  dynasty,  fell  by  the  sword  of  Pizarro.  In  the  neighbour- 
hood are  also  the  remains  of  a  vast  mass  of  building,  constructed 
of  ponderous  stones,  in  the  Peruvian  fashion,  and  capable  of 
containing  5000  persons.  Caxatambo  and  Huaura  contain  each 
about  7000  inhabitants.  Tarma  has  about  5000  inhabitants;  and 
here  is  a  considerable  manufacture  of  baize. 

The  town  of  Cerro  Pasco  is  situated  among  the  Andes,  at  an 
elevation  of  13,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  is  a  cold, 
dirty,  uncomfortable  place ;  but  has  lately  increased  in  popula- 
tion, in  consequence  of  a  renewed  activity  in  the  working  of 
the  mines,  which  are  the  most  important  in  Peru. 


SOUTH   AMERICA. 


Rope  Bridge. 


Permanent  bridges  are  rare  in  South  America ;  in  many  cases  a  rope  is  stretched  across  a 
stream,  on  which  a  sling  or  shorter  rope  is  made  to  traverse :  in  this  the  traveller  places  his 
feet,  and  is  drawn  over  as  shown  in  the  cut ;  sometimes  a  hammock  or  strongly-made  basket 
is  used  instead  of  the  sling. 


Mules  and  Lamas  carrying  Produce. 


View  of  Lima,  from  the  banks  of  the  Rimac. 
X* 


SOUTH   AMERICA. 


C3. 


Palace  of  the  Incas,  at  Callo. 

The  Palace  of  the  Incas,  at  Callo,  is  the  most  perfect  of  the  ancient  Peruvian  structures 
that  remain  ;  it  is  constructed  of  large  stones,  and  forms  a  square  of  about  100  feet.  The 
picture  represents  the  door  and  part  of  the  wall ;  the  figure  above  is  the  ground  plan  of  the 
building. 


Appearance  of  the  Andes  in  Chili. 


Lake  Aculco,  twenty  miles  from  Santiago,  in  Chili. 

This  lake,  for  the  beauty  of  its  scenery,  compares  favourably  with  any  of  the  famed  Italian 
lakes. 

270 


SOUTH    PERU.  229 

SOUTH    PERU. 

The  republic  of  South  Peru  is  a  recent  state,  having  sepa- 
rated itself  from  North  Peru,  in  the  year  1836.  Its  indepen- 
dence was  declared  March  16th  of  the  same  year,  at  Sicuana,  a 
small  town  in  the  interior.  The  continual  revolutions  and  politi- 
cal contentions  of  which  Peru  has  been  for  many  years  the 
victim,  and  the  contradictory  measures  pursued  by  that  state 
and  Bolivia  in  their  commercial  relations  with  each  other,  are 
stated  to  have  been  the  chief  motives  which  led  to  a  separation. 

This  state  comprises  four  of  the  seven  departments  which  be- 
longed to  Peru,  and  although  less  in  extent  than  the  northern 
division,  is  undoubtedly  the  most  thickly  peopled.  It  is  bound- 
ed on  the  north  by  North  Peru,  south  and  east  by  Bolivia,  and 
west  by  the  Pacific  ocean.  Length  600  miles,  breadth  from  60 
to  400 ;  area  130,000  square  miles.     Population,  800,000. 

Departments.  Capitals.        Population.    Departments.      Capitals.     Population. 

Arequipa Arequipa  ....  24,000  I  Cuzco Cuzco  ....   32,000 

Ayacucho  •  •  •  •  Guamanga  . . .  16,000  |  Puno Puno 18,000 

South  Peru  has  a  coast,  on  the  Pacific  ocean,  of  about  700 
miles  in  extent ;  along  which  are  a  number  of  small  sea-ports, 
including  those  called  the  Intermedios.  The  country  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  coast  is  in  many  places  a  desert  and  destitute  of 
water,  and  can  be  traversed  only  with  the  same  precautions  as  are 
necessary  in  crossing  the  deserts  of  Africa.  Along  the  banks 
of  streams,  and  where  the  soil  can  be  watered,  vegetation  is  very 
abundant ;  the  produce  is  mostly  sugar,  wine,  brandy,  and  oil. 

Cuzco,  the  capital  of  South  Peru,  was  the  metropolis  of  the 
ancient  empire  of  the  Incas,  and  at  the  time  of  the  conquest  by 
the  Spaniards  was  a  magnificent  city  ;  though  much  decayed, 
it  is  still  handsome,  and  even  splendid.  The  cathedral  is  de- 
scribed as  a  noble  pile.  The  Dominican  church  has  been  built 
from  the  materials  of  the  ancient  temple,  on  the  same  site,  and 
the  altar  has  taken  the  place  of  the  image  of  that  deity.  On  an 
eminence  are  the  walls  of  the  fortress  of  the  Incas,  raised  to  a 
great  height,  and  built  of  truly  astonishing  masses  of  stone. 
Cuzco  contains  32,000  inhabitants,  of  whom  three-fourths  are 
pure  Indians. 

Arequipa  is  a  large  city,  considerably  in  the  interior,  in  an 
agreeable  and  healthful  climate.  The  population  has  been  esti- 
mated at  24,000.  Arequipa  has  stood,  notwithstanding  shocks 
of  earthquakes  repeated  three  or  four  times  in  each  century. 
Near  it  is  a  great  volcano,  whence  arise  clouds  of  ashes,  which 
20  2" 


230  SOUTH  AMERICA. 

reach  even  to  the  ocean.  Islay,  its  sea-port,  is  only  a  village. 
Arica  was  originally  a  port  of  considerable  importance ;  but 
since  the  earthquake  of  1605  it  has  been  in  a  great  measure  de- 
serted, and  the  chief  part  of  the  population  has  emigrated  to 
Tacna,  which  is  a  thriving  town,  about  thirty  miles  in  the  inte- 
rior, employing  extensive  droves  of  mules  to  carry  the  merchan- 
dise landed  at  Arica  into  the  provinces  beyond  the  Andes. 
Moquehua,  another  interior  place,  is  chiefly  noted  for  the  good 
wine  produced  in  its  district. 

Guamanga,  situated  about  half-way  between  Lima  and  Cuzco, 
is  built  of  stone,  and  adorned  with  handsome  public  places  and 
squares.  It  has  an  university  of  royal  foundation,  richly  endow- 
ed, and  contains  16,000  inhabitants.  Guancavelica  is  bleak  and 
cold,  only  distinguished  for  the  rich  mines  of  mercury,  which 
once  rendered  it  a  flourishing  place  ;  but  these  have  so  much  de- 
clined, that  the  population  is  reduced  to  5000. 

The  little  village  of  Ayacucho,  which  gives  name  to  one  of 
the  departments  of  South  Peru,  was  the  theatre  of  the  victory 
which  (1824)  delivered  South  America  from  the  Spanish  yoke. 
Puno,  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  lake  Titicaca,  is  a  town  of 
some  note,  containing  a  college,  and  18,000  inhabitants. 


BOLIVIA. 

The  republic  of  Bolivia  was  established  in  1825,  and  was 
named  after  general  Bolivar,  the  liberator  of  South  America. 
The  territories  included  in  this  state,  commonly  called  Upper 
Peru,  were  detached  from  the  vice-royalty  of  Peru  and  annexed 
to  that  of  the  Rio  de  la  Plata  in  1778,  and  were  finally  wrested 
from  the  dominion  of  Spain  by  the  victory  of  Ayacucho,  De- 
cember 1824,  in  which  the  Colombians  defeated  the  Spaniards. 

Bolivia  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Brazil  and  North  Peru, 
south  by  Buenos  Ayres,  east  by  Brazil  and  Paraguay,  and  west 
by  South  Peru  and  the  Pacific  ocean.  It  extends  from  east  to 
west  800  miles,  and  almost  the  same  distance  from  north  to  south ; 
having  an  area  of  about  450,000  square  miles. 

This  region  contains  the  loftiest  mountain  peaks  in  the  New 
World,  and  which  are  inferior  in  elevation  only  to  those  of  the 
Himmaleh  range  in  Asia.  Mount  Sorato  has  been  found  to  at- 
tain the  height  of  25,400  feet,  and  that  of  Illimani  24,350.  The 
very  elevated  table-land  from  which  these  colossal  summits  rise, 
appears  to  have  prevented  their  extraordinary  elevation  from  be- 
coming sensible  till  it  was  determined  by  a  recent  measurement. 


BOLIVIA.  231 

This  lofty  plain,  which  seems  to  comprise  a  large  portion  of  the 
territory  of  Bolivia,  though  not  the  most  elevated,  appears  to  be 
among  the  most  fruitful  on  the  globe.  It  yields  copious  harvests 
of  rye,  Indian-corn,  barley,  potatoes,  and  even  wheat.  It  has 
cities  above  the  region  of  the  clouds,  villages  which  would  over- 
look the  summits  of  the  Pyrenees,  and  cottages  as  high  as  the 
top  of  Mont  Blanc. 

The  chief  rivers  of  Bolivia  are  the  Branco  and  Mamore,  head 
branches  of  the  Madeira ;  and  the  Pilcomayo,  which  flows  into  the 
Paraguay.  The  navigation  on  these  streams  is  very  trifling,  and 
in  no  case  it  is  believed  has  any  communication  by  them  with  the 
ocean  been  attempted. 

Lake  Titicaca  forms  part  of  the  western  boundary  of  Bolivia. 
It  is  180  miles  long,  is  very  irregular  in  its  outline,  and  is  subject 
to  violent  storms  and  gusts  of  wind.  It  has  no  visible  outlet,  and 
is  elevated  12,500  feet  above  the  sea.  The  water  of  this  lake 
is  turbid  and  disagreeable  to  the  taste,  but  abounds  in  fish,  and 
the  shores  are  populous,  being  well  settled  with  numerous  vil- 
lages. This  lake  is  navigated  by  boats  made  of  rushes  closely 
plaited  together :  the  mast  and  rudder  alone  are  made  of  wood, 
which,  owing  to  the  scarcity  of  that  article  in  this  region,  forms 
the  most  valuable  part  of  the  vessel. 

Bolivia  is  interesting  from  the  variety,  extent,  and  value  of  the 
minerals  it  affords.  Gold  is  found  in  considerable  quantities  in 
the  mountainous  districts, but  hitherto  it  has  not  been  extensively 
mined,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  gold  procured  here  is  obtained 
by  washing  the  sands  of  the  rivers.  Silver  is  the  principal  me- 
tallic production,  and  has  conferred  on  this  country  its  greatest 
celebrity. 

The  rich  mountain  of  Potosi  is  famous  for  the  wealth  it  has 
produced:  it  has  had  no  equal  for  abundance  of  ore  in  the  world. 
The  mountain  rises  to  the  height  of  16,000  feet;  is  18  miles  in 
circumference;  and  though  it  has  been  constantly  worked  since 
its  discovery,  yet  it  is  only  honey-combed  as  it  were  at  the  sur- 
face. Ore  still  lies  at  a  somewhat  greater  depth,  but  it  is  in  many 
places  overflowed  with  water.  This  mine  yielded,  from  the  time  it 
was  first  opened,  until  1803,  a  period  of  258  years,  at  the  rate 
of  six  million  dollars  annually. 

During  the  revolution  many  of  the  workmen  were  withdrawn 
and  nearly  all  the  capital  employed  in  the  business  exhausted,  in 
consequence  of  which  the  operations  of  mining  were  so  much 
retarded  that  for  the  ten  years  ending  in  1829,  the  average 
yearly  product  of  the  whole  mountain  did  not  amount  to  400,000 
dollars  :  the  business  has,  however,  been  since  resumed  with  more 
activity. 


232 


SOUTH   AMERICA. 


This  mine  was  discovered  in  the  year  1545  by  an  Indian,  who 
in  pursuing  some  goats  grasped  a  bush  in  his  ascent,  the  roots 
of  which  giving  way  disclosed  to  his  view  a  rich  vein  of  silver 
ore.  There  are  also  silver-mines  at  Portugalete,  La  Plata, 
Porco,  Lipes,  and  Caranga. 

Bolivia  is  divided  into  seven  departments  which  are  subdivided 
into  provinces.  The  population  of  the  whole  is  1,716,000,  of 
which  more  than  one  million  are  Indians. 


Departments.  Population. 

Potosi. 320,000 

Chuquisaca 246,000 

Cochabamba 510,000 

La  Paz 420,000 

Santa  Cruz 100,000 

Moxos 70,000 

Chiquitos 50,000 

Total        1,716,000 


i  Capitals.  Population. 

Potosi 9,000 

Chuquisaca 12,000 

Cochabamba 30,000 

La  Paz 40,000 

Santa  Cruz  de  la  Sierra  ....  9,000 


The  capital  of  Bolivia  is  Chuquisaca,  or  La  Plata,  so  named 
from  the  silver-mines  in  its  vicinity.  It  is  a  handsome  city,  con- 
taining about  12,000  inhabitants.  Notwithstanding  its  astonish- 
ing elevation,  the  country  around  is  fertile  and  luxuriant.  Here 
is  a  university  numerously  attended,  and  a  library,  said  to  be 
the  best  in  South  America. 

La  Paz,  with  a  population  of  40,000,  is  the  chief  city  of  Bo- 
livia, and  is  surrounded  by  the  most  interesting  objects  in  that 
country.  A  few  miles  to  the  north  are  Illimani  and  Sorata,  both 
already  described  as  the  highest  mountains  in  the  New  World. 
At  some  distance  north-west  is  the  great  lake  of  Titicaca,  the 
largest  in  South  America. 

Potosi  enjoys  the  greatest  fame  of  any  city  in  this  region,  but 
retains  few  traces  of  the  wealth  which  gained  for  it  this  cele- 
brity. It  is  probably  the  most  elevated  city  in  the  world,  being 
13,000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  consequently  higher  than  the 
Peak  of  Teneriffe.  It  is  not  a  well-built  town  ;  the  streets  are 
narrow  and  irregular,  and  most  of  the  houses  indifferent.  It  has, 
however,  a  college  and  a  mint.  Reports  vary  greatly  both  as  to 
its  past  and  present  population.  The  assertion  that,  in  its  most 
flourishing  state,  it  ever  contained  160,000  people,  is  probably 
much  exaggerated.     It  now  has  9000  inhabitants. 

There  are  some  other  considerable  places  in  this  region.  Oruro 
has  not  more  than  4000  or  5000  inhabitants ;  but  the  mines  in 
its  vicinity  were  once  important.  Cochabamba,  in  the  midst  of 
a  fertile,  well-cultivated  territory,  carries  on  a  great  trade  in 
grain,  fruits,  and  vegetables.  It  is  said  to  contain  30,000  inha- 
bitants. 


CHILI.  233 

Santa  Cruz  de  la  Sierra,  situated  in  the  easternmost  part  of 
the  Republic,  is  a  meanly-built  town,  with  a  population  of  about 
9000.  Large  tracts  in  this  quarter  are  occupied  by  the  Moxos 
and  Chiquitos,  Indian  tribes  nearly  independent,  unless  so  far  as 
the  missionaries  have  reclaimed  them  from  their  savage  habits. 

Bolivia,  in  its  small  extent  of  coast,  has  only  one  port,  that 
of  Cobija  or  Puerto  de  la  Mar,  which  labours  under  a  deficiency 
of  fresh  water :  the  Bolivians  are  obliged  at  present  to  receive 
almost  all  foreign  commodities  across  the  mountains,  by  way  of 
Arica. 


CHILI. 

Chili  consists  of  a  long  narrow  tract  of  country,  situated 
between  the  Andes  and  the  Pacific  ocean.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
north  by  Bolivia,  south  by  Patagonia,  east  by  Buenos  Ayres, 
and  west  by  the  Pacific  ocean.  It  is  in  length  about  1200  miles, 
and  from  100  to  200  miles  wide;  with  an  area  of  about  170,000 
square  miles,  and  a  population  of  1,500,000. 

The  climate  of  this  country  is  remarkably  salubrious  and 
healthful.  In  the  northern  provinces  it  seldom  rains,  but  the 
deficiency  is  supplied  by  the  dews,  which  are  very  heavy  during 
spring,  summer,  and  autumn.  Snow  falls  abundantly  on  the 
Andes,  but  is  never  seen  on  the  coast.  The  soil  is  in  general 
highly  productive,  particularly  in  the  valleys  amongst  the  moun- 
tains. The  northern  provinces  yield  various  tropical  productions; 
and  the  southern  the  grains,  fruits,  and  vegetables,  of  temperate 
regions. 

The  great  chain  of  the  Andes  traverses  the  country  through 
its  whole  extent,  and  presents  a  number  of  elevations,  whose 
height  is  probably  not  less  than  20,000  feet,  which  are  covered 
with  perpetual  snow  for  several  thousand  feet  below  their  sum- 
mits. The  sides  of  these  mountains  are  generally  fertile  and 
beautiful ;  rich  foliage  and  verdure,  with  exuberant  pastures, 
extend  even  to  the  borders  of  the  frost  and  snow ;  and  many  of 
the  upper  valleys  present  such  romantic  and  enchanting  scenes, 
that  Chili  has  been  called  the  Italy  of  South  America. 

The  rivers  of  Chili  are  numerous,  but  small,  and  have  gene- 
rally a  rapid  current,  and  a  short  course,  as  they  descend  from 
elevated  regions.  The  Maule  and  Biobio  are  navigable  for  a 
limited  distance. 

The  chief  misfortune  of  this  country  is,  that  it  is  not  secure 
beneath  the  feet  of  the  inhabitants.  Repeated  earthquakes  have 
20*  2" 


234  SOUTH   AMERICA. 

laid  the  cities  in  ruin,  and  from  time  to  time  shocks  are  felt, 
which,  even  when  slight,  are  rendered  dreadful  by  recollection 
and  anticipation.  There  are  said  to  be  fourteen  active  volcanoes 
in  Chili,  besides  several  that  are  occasionally,  or  constantly, 
discharging  smoke. 

Agriculture  is  extensively,  but  rudely,  carried  on  in  this 
country,  yet  the  produce  is  abundant.  Wheat  of  fine  quality, 
and  other  grains,  with  potatoes,  garden  vegetables,  and  fruits  of 
various  kinds,  grow  in  perfection.  A  good  deal  of  wine  is  made, 
though  not  of  the  first  excellence ;  and  cattle  are  raised  to  a  great 
extent ;  the  horses  are  small,  but  beautiful,  and  of  fine  temper 
and  spirit,  and  the  oxen  and  mules  are  equal  to  any  in  the  world. 

Chili  is  rich  in  mineral  productions.  Gold,  silver,  copper, 
quicksilver,  tin,  and  iron,  abound.  The  principal  mines  occur 
in  the  interior  from  Coquimbo,  in  a  barren  tract  in  the  northern 
part  of  the  country.  The  mines  of  copper  are  the  most  nume- 
rous and  productive,  the  annual  amount  of  that  metal  being 
about  750,000  dollars,  and  of  gold  and  silver  850,000  dollars. 

The  manufactures,  as  over  all  South  America,  consist  of 
coarse  articles,  made  by  the  country  people  for  domestic  use, 
with  the  simplest  instruments.  They  bring  to  market  ponchos, 
hats,  shoes,  coarse  earthenware,  and  sometimes  jars  of  fine  clay. 

This  republic  is  the  only  American  state,  formerly  subject  to 
Spain,  whose  commerce  is  supposed  to  have  increased  since  the 
separation  from  the  mother  country.  The  chief  trade  is  with 
the  United  States  and  Great  Britain.  The  principal  articles  of 
export  are,  gold,  silver,  copper,  and  hides ;  besides  which  the 
Chilians  send  wheat  and  flour  to  Peru  ;  and,  notwithstanding  the 
formidable  obstacles  opposed  by  the  Andes,  they  also  carry  on 
a  considerable  trade  with  Buenos  Ayres. 

The  Catholic  religion  has  hitherto  reigned  in  Chili  with  the 
same  supremacy  as  in  the  other  states,  and  continues  to  be  the 
exclusive  system.  Protestants  are  allowed  to  reside  in  the  coun- 
try without  molestation  ;  but  are  not  permitted  the  public  exer- 
cise of  their  religion.  Many  of  the  religious  shows  and  pro- 
cessions of  the  Catholic  church  have  been  suppressed,  a  change 
not  altogether  agreeable  to  the  body  of  the  people,  who  are  thus 
deprived  of  one  of  their  favourite  amusements. 

Knowledge,  in  Chili,  is  beginning  to  disperse  some  of  the 
ignorance  which  prevailed.  The  press,  unknown  before  the 
revolution,  has  been  introduced  ;  and  schools,  on  the  Lancas- 
terian  plan,  have  been  established  in  the  principal  towns.  The 
only  fine  art  cultivated  with  any  ardour  by  the  Chilians  is  music, 
their  application  to  which  is  truly  indefatigable ;  the  girls  being 
set  down  to  it  almost  from  infancy,  and  having  constant  practice 


CHILI.  235 

at  their  evening  parties.  The  importation  of  piano-fortes  is  said 
to  be  immense.  They  do  not  play  with  consummate  science,  but 
with  considerable  feeling  and  taste. 

The  social  state  of  Chili  differs  scarcely  a  shade  from  that  of 
the  rest  of  South  America.  There  is  the  same  native  courte- 
ousness,  politeness,  kindness  of  heart,  ignorance,  extravagant 
love  of  diversion,  and  abject  superstition.  The  ladies  often  can 
neither  write  nor  read  ;  but  travellers  join  in  praising  their  natural 
talents,  and  the  unstudied  grace  of  their  manners  ;  and  some 
conceive  the  general  deportment  of  those  in  the  higher  ranks  to 
be  almost  unexceptionable. 

"  The  country  situated  south  of  the  Biobio  river  is  inhabited  by 
the  Aricaunians,  the  most  powerful  and  warlike  of  all  the  Indian 
nations  in  the  southern  part  of  the  continent.  They  are  more 
intelligent  and  cultivated  than  any  existing  tribe  of  natives,  and 
possess  some  good  qualities  which  are,  however,  sullied  by  their 
proneness  to  drunkenness  and  debauchery.  They  have  ac- 
quired many  of  the  arts  necessary  to  subsistence  ;  and  exhibit 
a  degree  of  literary  taste,  which  is  scarcely  found  in  any  of  the 
other  natives.  They  have  maintained  their  independence  by  a 
series  of  bloody  wars  with  the  Spaniards  for  three  hundred 
years. 

The  Aricaunians  are  divided  into  several  tribes,  governed  by 
hereditary  chiefs,  who  are  all  subject  to  a  general,  elected  for 
that  purpose  in  time  of  war.  They  have  lately  entered  into  a 
treaty  with  the  republican  government,  and  have  agreed  to  a 
species  of  political  union,  though  a  long  interval  must  elapse 
before  this  can  be  completely  effected. 

The  island  of  Chiloe  is  the  southernmost  province  of  Chili. 
It  is  in  length,  from  north  to  south,  140  miles,  and  in  the  widest 
part  about  60  miles  broad.  The  inhabitants  are,  in  appearance, 
like  northern  Europeans,  manly,  athletic,  robust,  and  fresh 
coloured.  The  productions  are,  wheat,  barley,  potatoes,  and 
most  kinds  of  European  vegetables  and  fruits.  The  island 
swarms  with  hogs :  its  hams  are  celebrated,  and  are  exported 
in  considerable  quantities.  The  principal  towns  are  St.  Carlos, 
the  capital,  and  Castro ;  they  have  good  harbours,  in  which 
vessels  of  any  burthen  may  anchor  with  perfect  safety. 

The  islands  of  Juan  Fernandez,  claimed  by  Chili,  consist  of 
two  small  islands,  called  Mas-a-Tierra,  and  Mas-a-Fuero.  The 
former  is  so  diversified  by  lofty  hills,  streams,  and  varied  vege- 
tation, that  it  has  been  described  as  one  of  the  most  enchanting 
spots  on  the  globe.  It  was  early  noted  as  being  the  solitary 
residence  of  Alexander  Selkirk,  during  several  years  ;  an  event 
upon  which  Defoe  founded  his  celebrated  narrative  of  Robinson 

Y  277 


236  SOUTH    AMERICA. 

Crusoe.  This  island  has  been  used  by  the  Chilians  as  a  place 
for  confining  convicts ;  but  was  recently  granted  to  a  North 
American  merchant,  who  proposes  to  make  it  a  depot  for  sup- 
plying trading  and  whaling  vessels  with  provisions. 

Chili  corresponds  to  the  old  Spanish  captaincy-generalship  of 
the  same  name,  which  continued  to  be  governed  as  a  Spanish 
province  until  the  year  1810,  when  the  people  threw  off  the 
yoke  of  the  mother  country.  In  1818  Chili  was  declared  inde- 
pendent ;  in  1824  it  was  divided  into  eight  provinces,  which  are 
subdivided  into  districts. 


Provinces. 

Chief  Towns. 

Population. 

Provinces. 

Chief  Towns. 

Population. 

Santiago  . . 
Aconcagua 
Coquimbo  . 
Colchagua 

.  Santiago  . 
. .  San  Felipe 
. .  Coquimbo  . 

. .  50,000 
..    5,000 
. .  10,000 
..    2,000 

Concepcion 
Chiloe 

.  Cauquenes 
.  Concepcion 

. . . .  2,000 

. . .  8,000 

. . . .  3,000 

Santiago,  the  capital,  is  situated  in  a  richly  wooded  plain, 
about  sixty  miles  from  Valparaiso,  at  an  elevation  of  2600  feet 
above  the  sea,  which  renders  the  climate  agreeable  and  salubri- 
ous. The  houses  having,  in  general,  only  one  floor,  and  being 
surrounded  by  large  gardens,  the  town  appears  entirely  over- 
shadowed with  foliage.  Each  house,  in  general,  stands  by 
itself,  and  being  strongly  barricaded  towards  the  street,  forms  a 
little  fortress.  They  are  built  of  adobes  or  unburnt  brick.  The 
streets,  however,  are  regularly  laid  out,  paved,  and  furnished 
with  footpaths.  The  cathedral,  several  of  the  churches,  and 
the  director's  palace,  may  be  reckoned  handsome,  though  they 
do  not  exhibit  any  thing  very  splendid  in  architecture. 

Valparaiso,  the  main  seat  of  Chilian  commerce,  is  situated  on 
a  long  narrow  strip  of  land,  over  which  impend  on  all  sides 
steep  cliffs  nearly  2000  feet  high,  and  sparingly  covered  with 
shrubs  and  stunted  grass.  One  street,  about  three  miles  long, 
runs  along  the  sea,  and  contains  the  houses  of  the  most  opulent 
citizens ;  it  is  prolonged  by  the  Almendral,  or  Almond  Grove,  a 
sort  of  detached  village,  which  forms  the  most  agreeable  resi- 
dence. None  of  the  buildings  are  handsome ;  even  the  gover- 
nor's house  is  scarcely  tolerable ;  but  the  commercial  progress 
of  the  town  is  marked  by  the  many  new  and  handsome  ware- 
houses lately  erected. 

Quillota  is  a  small  but  agreeable  town,  north  of  Valparaiso, 
and  a  little  in  the  interior,  in  the  province  of  Aconcagua,  with 
8000  inhabitants ;  and  higher  up  are  the  towns  of  San  Felipe 
and  Santa  Rosa,  each  having  about  5000  inhabitants,  and  con- 
taining an  industrious  and  thriving  agricultural  population. 

Coquimbo  is  surrounded  by  a  barren  and  almost  desert  coun- 


SOUTH   AMERICA, 


Salto  de  Agua,  or  Water  JLeapr 


This  beautiful  cascade  is  in  the  vicinity  of  Santiago,  the  capital  of  Chili ;  it  is  a  highly  pic- 
turesque object,  and  surrounded  by  interesting  and  romantic  scenery. 


Valparaiso. 


Juan  Fernandez. 


279 


SOUTH   AMERICA, 


Travellers  crossing  the  Andes. 

A  journey  across  the  Andes  is  at  all  times  fatiguing  and  dangerous ;  travellers  and  their 
mules  sometimes  miss  their  foothold  in  traversing  the  narrow  paths  among  theBe  mountains, 
fall  to  a  stupendous  depth,  and  are  dashed  in  pieces. 


Brazilian  Forest. 


Rio  Janeiro,  the  Capital  of  Brazil. 


280 


BRAZIL.  237 

try,  destitute  of  trees.  Its  importance  arises  solely  from  its 
mines,  which  include  gold,  silver,  and  copper.  The  commerce 
connected  with  the  mines  gives  some  importance  to  this  place  ; 
though  the  inhabitants,  unaccustomed  to  any  varied  traffic,  retain 
much  native  simplicity,  kindness,  and  hospitality. 

Copiapo  is  in  the  heart  of  the  mining  district,  of  which  it 
may  be  considered  the  capital.  This  place  is  subject  to  the 
dreadful  calamity  of  being  once  in  about  every  twenty-three 
years  completely  destroyed  by  earthquake.  That  of  1819 
shook  it  entirely  to  pieces  ;  the  wrecks  of  its  houses  and  church- 
es lying  scattered  in  every  direction  :  but  in  1821  the  inhabitants 
rebuilt  their  fallen  city.  The  town  of  Concepcion  suffered 
with  peculiar  severity  from  the  late  contest ;  alternately  occupied 
by  the  Spaniards  and  the  patriots,  it  was  rudely  treated  by  both, 
but  especially  by  the  former.  After  having  in  some  measure 
recovered  from  the  calamities  of  war,  the  town  was  entirely 
destroyed  by  an  earthquake,  in  1835.  Talcahuano,  the  port 
of  Concepcion,  is  a  small  town,  on  a  fine  bay,  with  a  good  and 
secure  anchorage. 

The  town  of  Valdivia  is  situated  about  sixteen  miles  above  its 
port,  which  is  defended  by  strong  batteries,  and  is  the  best  and 
most  capacious  harbour  in  Chili ;  it  will  be  of  great  value  when 
the  surrounding  country  becomes  more  populous  and  civilized. 


EMPIRE  OF   BRAZIL. 

Brazil  is  a  very  extensive  region  which  occupies  nearly  the 
whole  of  the  eastern  side  of  South  America,  and  after  having 
been  long  held  as  a  Portuguese  colony,  has  of  late,  by  peculiar 
circumstances,  been  formed  into  a  separate  empire,  which  extends 
over  almost  half  the  southern  part  of  the  western  continent.  It 
is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  north  by  Vene- 
zuela and  Guiana,  west  by  Ecuador,  North  Peru,  Bolivia,  Para- 
guay, and  Uruguay. 

This  vast  territory  extends  about  2500  miles  in  extreme 
length,  and  about  the  same  in  extreme  breadth.  The  area  of 
the  whole  is  upwards  of  three  million  square  miles.  It  is  thus 
twenty-five  times  the  extent  of  the  British  Islands,  and  more 
than  twice  that  of  Mexico. 

Of  this  immense  space,  not  above  a  fourth  can  be  considered 
as  at  present  in  an  effective  and  productive  state ;  and  that  part 
is  scarcely  cultivated  and  peopled  up  to  a  fourth  of  its  actual  ca- 
pacity.    But  nearly  the  whole,  from  soil,  climate,  and  communi- 

Y*  281 


238  SOUTH    AMERICA. 

cations,  is  capable  of  being  brought,  at  some  future  and  distant 
period,  into  full  improvement. 

The  Brazilian  ranges  of  mountains  are  of  great  extent,  but 
reach,  by  no  means,  to  that  stupendous  height  which  distin- 
guishes the  Andes  of  Colombia  and  Peru.  The  principal  mass 
of  these  mountains  lies  north-west  of  Rio  de  Janeiro,  towards 
the  sources  of  the  rivers  San  Francisco,  Parana,  and  Tocantines, 
and  are  not  generally  higher  than  from  2000  to  3000  feet ;  only 
a  few  detached  peaks  rising  to  about  6000  feet. 

The  greatest  rivers  in  America  and  in  the  world,  flow  around 
the  borders  or  through  the  territories  of  Brazil.  Its  northern 
part  is  watered  by  the  course  of  the  Amazon,  its  western  by  the 
Madeira  and  the  Paraguay.  Within  its  territory  flow,  tributary 
to  the  Amazon,  the  Topayos,  the  Xingu,  and  the  Negro,  which, 
though  here  secondary,  may  rival  the  greatest  waters  of  the 
other  continents.  The  Tocantines  and  the  Parnaiba  flow  into 
the  sea  on  the  northern  coast,  and  the  Rio  Francisco  on  the 
western.  There  are  two  Rio  Grandes,  one  falling  into  the  sea 
north  of  Pernambuco,  the  other  (Rio  Grande  do  Sul)  in  the  ex- 
treme south,  watering  the  province  that  bears  its  name. 

There  are  but  few  lakes  in  Brazil :  in  the  southern  part  of  the 
empire  there  are  the  Patos  and  the  Mirim,  extensive  and  shal- 
low, communicating  with  the  sea,  yet  chiefly  fresh,  and  form- 
ing the  receptacle  of  all  the  streams  which  come  down  from  the 
interior.  Farther  inland,  the  Paraguay,  by  its  superfluous  wa- 
ters, forms  lake  Xarayes,  which  spreads,  in  the  rainy  season, 
over  a  vast  extent  of  ground. 

Dense  and  impenetrable  forests  cover  a  great  part  of  the  inte- 
rior of  Brazil,  and  exhibit  a  luxuriance  of  vegetation  almost  pe- 
culiar to  the  central  regions  of  South  America.  These  vast 
woods  are  rich  in  timber  of  every  description,  for  use  and  orna- 
ment, suited  either  for  carpentry,  shipbuilding,  dyeing,  or  furni- 
ture. That  kind  especially,  called  Brazil-wood,  is  particularly 
celebrated  for  the  beautiful  red  dye  which  it  produces. 

Agriculture  is  exercised  in  this  country  upon  valuable  pro- 
ducts and  in  fertile  soils,  but  in  a  very  slovenly  manner.  The 
farmers,  till  of  late,  were  a  most  ignorant  race,  not  believing 
that  there  were  any  countries  in  the  world  except  Portugal  and 
Brazil,  nor  any,  except  the  last,  in  which  the  sugar-cane  grew. 
They  have  begun,  however,  to  hold  intercourse  with  the  world 
in  general,  and  to  introduce  improved  processes  from  the  West 
India  islands. 

The  chief  objects  of  cultivation  are  cotton,  sugar,  coffee,  and 
tobacco:  the  latter  is  raised  mostly  for  domestic  consumption. 
For  food  chiefly  to  the  negroes,  manioc  and  kidney-beans  are  the 


BRAZIL.  239 

articles  principally  raised  :  Indian-corn  and  bananas  are  not  so 
much  used  as  in  most  tropical  countries.  Rice  is  largely  culti- 
vated only  in  Maranham. 

Cattle  multiply  to  an  immense  extent  in  all  parts  of  Brazil, 
but  more  especially  in  the  south.  The  great  farms  contain 
2000,  3000,  4000,  'and  sometimes  even  40,000  head.  These 
supply  vast  quantities  of  hides,  horns,  and  tallow  for  exporta- 
tion ;  and  the  flesh,  dried  in  a  peculiar  manner,  called  jerk-beef, 
is  sent  to  the  northern  provinces  of  Brazil,  and  to  the  West 
Indies. 

Brazil  is  rich  in  gold  and  precious  stones :  the  former  occurs 
mostly  like  that  of  Africa,  in  the  form  of  small  particles  brought 
down  by  streams  which  descend  from  the  hills,  and  from  which 
it  is  separated  by  agitation  in  water.  Few  mines  are  now  worked, 
and  less  attention  seems  to  be  paid  to  the  collection  of  gold  than 
formerly. 

The  diamonds  of  this  country  are  found  in  situations  similar 
to  that  of  gold,  among  the  earth  at  the  bottom  of  the  rivers.  The 
principal  diamond  ground  is  a  circuit  of  about  16  leagues  around 
Tejuco.  The  trade  has  been  monopolized  by  the  government, 
and  as  usual  in  such  cases  has  been  conducted  at  a  very  great 
expense,  and  the  strictest  precautions  are  taken  to  prevent  any 
of  the  diamonds  being  smuggled.  Iron,  copper,  topazes,  tourma- 
lines, and  rock  crystal,  also  abound. 

Manufactures  have  made  less  progress  in  Brazil  than  in  any 
of  the  South  American  colonies.  The  only  fabric  of  importance 
is  that  of  gold  and  silver,  which  is  carried  on  in  the  capital  to  a 
considerable  extent.  The  articles  wrought  are  of  great  beauty, 
and  are  an  object  even  of  export. 

The  commerce  of  Brazil  which  is  greater  than  that  of  any 
other  country  in  America,  except  the  United  States,  flourishes  in 
consequence  of  the  dependence  of  the  people  upon  foreign  manu- 
factures, as  well  as  the  valuable  products  of  the  soil.  The  chief 
trade  is  with  Great  Britain,  the  United  States,  France,  and  Por- 
tugal. Sugar,  coffee,  cotton,  hides,  horns,  and  tallow,  with  some 
gold  and  precious  stones,  are  the  principal  exports  :  these  in  value 
exceed  25  million  dollars  annually.  The  mass  of  the  imports 
are  in  British  manufactured  goods,  which  rise  to  the  sum  of  20 
million  dollars  yearly.  A  considerable  inland  trade  is  carried 
on  by  means  of  trains  of  mules  from  the  sea-port  towns  with  the 
interior  country. 

Religion  in  Brazil,  as  in  the  South  American  States,  is  the 
Catholic,  but  British  subjects  have  been  allowed  to  erect  a  church 
after  the  manner  of  a  private  dwelling,  but  without  a  bell.  The 
established  church  having  relinquished  the  payment  of  tithes,  the 


240  SOUTH   AMERICA. 

priesthood  is  supported  by  government.  There  are  one  arch- 
bishop and  six  bishops :  the  inferior  clergy  are  numerous,  and 
many  of  them  are  negroes. 

Science,  literature,  and  art  have  scarcely  yet  any  existence  in 
Brazil.  Some  of  the  higher  classes,  and  of  the  officers  of  the 
government,  are  well  informed,  and  the  sea-port  towns  are  be- 
ginning to  imbibe  the  spirit  and  knowledge  of  Europe ;  but  these 
improvements  have  made  little  way  into  the  interior.  The  plan 
of  founding  a  university  which  has  been  proposed  is  not  yet  ex- 
ecuted ;  and  the  Brazilians  who  seek  a  superior  education  must 
cross  the  sea  to  Portugal. 

The  population  of  Brazil  is  estimated  at  5  millions,  of  which 
about  one-fifth  are  whites,  three-fifths  slaves,  and  the  remainder 
free  coloured  persons. 

The  great  predominance  of  the  negro  population  distinguishes 
Brazil  unfavourably  from  the  other  South  American  states.  It 
appears  that  not  a  fourth  of  the  population  is  of  unmixed  white 
race,  and  that  more  than  half  the  entire  number  are  slaves. 
Though  the  importation  of  these  was  to  have  ceased  in  1830,  yet 
great  numbers  are  still  brought  into  the  country. 

The  Indians  in  Brazil  are  in  a  much  more  barbarous  and  unpro- 
mising state  than  in  the  Spanish  settlements.  They  have  never 
been  incorporated  in  any  shape  with  the  European  population ; 
but  have  always  retired  before  the  progress  of  civilization  into 
the  depths  of  their  forests.  They  have  borrowed,  indeed,  from 
the  Portuguese  some  scanty  portion  of  raiment.  But  they  have 
never  attempted  the  taming  of  animals,  or  the  planting  of  grain; 
they  subsist  solely  on  the  spontaneous  fruits  of  the  earth,  the 
roots  which  they  can  dig  up,  and  the  game  brought  down  by  their 
arrow,  which  they  shoot  with  marvellous  dexterity,  taking  an 
almost  unerring  aim  at  the  distance  of  forty  or  fifty  yards. 

Brazil  is  the  only  portion  of  the  New  World,  ever  governed 
by  an  European  sovereign  in  person ; — the  King  of  Portugal 
having  reigned  here  from  the  year  1808  until  the  year  1821. 
The  country  was  afterwards  declared  independent  of  Portugal, 
and  Pedro  the  First  crowned  emperor  of  Brazil.  In  1831,  he 
abdicated  the  throne  in  favour  of  his  son. 

According  to  the  constitution  which  was  formed  in  1823,  and 
adopted  in  1824,  Brazil  is  an  hereditary  monarchy,  with  a  legis- 
lative assembly,  consisting  of  two  houses,  a  senate  appointed 
by  the  emperor,  and  a  house  of  representatives  elected  by  the 
people. 

Pedro  the  Second,  who  was  born  in  1825,  is  now  emperor  of 
Brazil,  but  the  government  is  conducted  by  a  regency. 


BRAZIL.  241 

Brazil  is  divided  into  18  provinces,  which  are  subdivided  into 
comarcas  or  counties- 


Provinces.       Capitals.  Population. 

Para Para 20,000 

Maranham  . .  Maranham 20,000 

Piauhy Oeiras 2,000 

Ceara Aracati 20,000 

Rio  Grande. .  Natal 11,000 

Paraiba Paraiba 3,000 

Pernambuco  .  Pernambuco . . .  65,000 

Alagoas Alagoas 5,000 

Sergippe  ....  Sergippe 30,000 


Provinces.  Capitals.  Population. 

Bahia Bahia 120,000 

Espiritu  Santo  Espiritu  Santo  11,000 
Rio  Janeiro  . .  Rio  Janeiro  . .  150,000 
San  Paulo  ...  San  Paulo  . . .  .20,000 
St.  Catharina.  St.  Catharina. .  6,000 
San  Pedro  .  . .  Portalegre  . . .  .12,000 

Minas  Geraes  Villa  Rica 8,000 

Goyaz Villa  Boa 6,000 

Matto  Grosso.  Villa  Bella. . .  .20,000 


Rio  Janeiro,  the  capital  of  Brazil,  is  the  largest  and  most  flour- 
ishing city  of  South  America.  It  lies  on  the  western  side  of  a 
noble  bay,  seventy  or  eighty  miles  in  circumference,  forming  one 
of  the  most  spacious  and  secure  receptacles  for  shipping  in  the 
world.  It  is  studded  with  upwards  of  100  islands ;  the  ships  of 
all  nations  are  seen  passing  through  its  channels,  and  innumera- 
ble little  boats  flitting  about.     Population,  150,000. 

The  city  is  tolerably  well  built,  much  in  the  European  style, 
the  houses  being  three  or  four  stories  high,  though  the  streets  are 
rather  narrow.  Two  of  them  extend  the  whole  length,  with  new 
and  broad  streets  striking  off"  from  them ;  and  there  are  several 
very  handsome  squares.  This  place  is  well  supplied  with  water, 
by  excellent  aqueducts.  There  is  a  greater  stir  and  bustle  than 
is  usual  in  a  South  American  city,  though  the  crowd  of  half- 
naked  blacks  and  mulattoes  offends  the  eye  of  the  newly-arrived 
European. 

The  environs  of  Rio  Janeiro  are  delightful  in  the  extreme,  the 
valleys  and  sides  of  the  hills  being  covered  with  trees,  shrubs, 
and  creeping  plants,  of  peculiar  beauty. 

Bahia,  or  St.  Salvador,  is  situated  on  the  noble  bay  of  All 
Saints,  and  is  the  next  in  importance  to  Rio  Janeiro,  in  Brazil :  it 
consists  of  two  towns,  the  upper  and  lower ;  in  the  latter  the  houses 
are  high,  the  streets  confined  and  narrow,  wretchedly  paved,  never 
cleaned,  and  therefore  disgustingly  dirty.  The  upper  town,  how- 
ever, placed  upon  the  side  of  a  hill  which  rises  abruptly  behind, 
though  not  well  built,  has  a  number  of  handsome  private  houses 
and  public  buildings.  The  cathedral  and  several  other  churches 
are  handsome  and  richly  ornamented  ;  but  the  finest  of  them,  the 
Ex-Jesuits'  church,  built  entirely  of  marble  imported  from  Eu- 
rope, has  been  converted  into  barracks.  The  police  of  this  place 
is  bad,  the  dagger  being  generally  worn,  and  too  often  used  ;  the 
deaths  by  assassination,  are  estimated  at  200  in  the  year ;  yet 
Bahia  is  esteemed  the  gayest  city  in  Brazil.  Its  population 
amounts  to  120,000  souls. 

21  233 


242  SOUTH    AMERICA. 

Cachoeira,  a  short  distance  in  the  interior  from  Bahia,  is  a 
handsome,  well-built  town,  with  16,000  inhabitants.  Sergippe 
del  Rev,  north  of  Bahia,  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  rich  coun- 
try, abounding  in  grain,  tobacco,  and  sugar,  and  carries  on  a 
considerable  trade.     Population,  30,000. 

Pernambuco  is,  after  Rio  Janeiro  and  Bahia,  the  most  import- 
ant place  in  Brazil :  it  is  properly  a  compound  of  four  towns : 
Olinda,  seated  on  a  range  of  rocky  hills,  and  the  most  ancient, 
but  now  much  decayed,  contains  the  cathedral,  &c. ;  Recife, 
built  on  a  sand-bank  level  with  the  water,  and  deriving  its  name 
from  the  reef  opposite  to  it,  the  seat  of  trade,  highly  flourish- 
ing, and  rapidly  increasing :  St.  Antonio,  or  the  middle  town, 
composed  of  large  broad  streets,  and  containing  the  governor's 
house,  and  two  principal  churches ;  lastly,  Boa  Vista,  an  exten- 
sive agreeable  suburb,  where  the  principal  merchants  have  com- 
modious gardens.  Pernambuco  has  flourished  extremely  and 
increased  rapidly,  chiefly  in  consequence  of  the  augmented  cul- 
ture of  cotton,  and  the  ample  market  for  it  in  Europe.  The  cot- 
ton of  Pernambuco  is  said  to  be  the  best  in  the  north  of  Brazil. 
Population,  65,000.  Alagoas  and  Maceyo,  small  ports  south  of 
Pernambuco,  are  increasing  in  trade  and  population. 

Para,  Maranham,  and  Aracati,  are  the  most  important  towns 
on  the  north  coast :  the  first,  situated  on  the  river  Para,  is  a 
place  of  considerable  trade :  its  water  communications  with  the 
interior  are  so  extensive,  that  it  must  continue  to  advance  with 
the  progressive  settlement  of  the  inland  provinces.  Maranham, 
on  an  island  of  the  same  name,  has  a  population  of  20,000,  and 
exports  large  quantities  of  cotton,  rice,  and  hides.  Aracati,  a 
few  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Jaguaribe  river,  contains  20,000 
inhabitants,  and  is  a  place  of  some  trade. 

San  Paulo  is  situated  on  one  of  the  head  branches  of  the  Pa- 
rana river,  which,  though  it  rises  but  a  few  miles  from  the  east 
coast,  traverses  more  than  2000  miles  of  territory  before  its  wa- 
ters mingle  with  those  of  the  ocean.  The  town  contains  several 
churches,  convents,  &c,  and  has  a  neat  and  clean  appearance. 
Population,  20,000.  Portalegre,  at  the  head  of  lake  Patos,  and 
Rio  Grande,  or  San  Pedro,  at  its  mouth,  are  both  places  of  con- 
siderable trade,  in  hides,  horns,  and  tallow :  the  first  is  the  chief 
town  in  the  extreme  southern  part  of  Brazil. 

San  Joao  del  Rey,  some  distance  in  the  interior,  and  north 
from  Rio  Janeiro,  is  a  neat  little  town  of  whitewashed,  red-tiled 
houses,  surrounded  by  a  singular  scene  of  round  hills  and  broken 
rocks,  with  tracts  entirely  sterile,  and  others  covered  with  the 
most  luxuriant  verdure.  Its  situation  is  so  agreeable  and  cen- 
tral, that  an  intention  was  once  formed  of  making  it  the  capital 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


Palace  of  San  Christovao,  near  Rio  Janeiro,  inhabited  occasionally  by  the  Emperor  of  Brazil. 


Crossing  a  River  on  a  Raft. 

The  streams  in  the  interior  of  Brazil  are  often  crossed  on  a  raft  formed  of  planks, 
propelled  by  the  owner  with  a  long  pole ;  while  the  horse  of  the  traveller  is  made  to  swim 
alongside. 


Diamond  River,  Brazil. 

The  water  of  the  smaller  streams  that  are  found  to  contain  diamonds,  is  frequently  turned 
aside  into  an  artificial  channel,  or  drained  off  by  a  chain  pump  (as  in  the  engraving),  when  the 
earth  at  the  bottom  is  thrown  out  for  examination. 

287 


BRAZIL,   BUENOS   AYRES. 


A  Sertanejo. 


Slaves  searching  for  Diamonds. 


The  earth  containing  diamonds  is  thrown  into  a  number  of  square  compartments,  into  each 
of  which  a  stream  of  water  is  admitted  ;  the  earthy  particles  are  thus  washed  away,  and  the 
remainder  is  closely  examined.  When  a  diamond  is  obtained,  the  finder  claps  his  hands,  and 
delivers  it  to  the  overseer. 

The  Sertanejos  are  the  inhabitants  of  the  Sertam,  a  flat  grassy  district,  situated  westward  of 
Pernambuco.    They  occupy  extensive  cattle  farms ;  and  are  very  skilful  in  the  use  of  the  lasso. 


Mode  of  travelling  on  the  Pampas. 


BUENOS  AYRES.  243 

of  Brazil.  Villa  Rica  was  formerly  rich  and  populous,  but  is 
now  much  declined  on  account  of  the  diminution  in  the  produc- 
tion of  the  gold-mines,  to  which  it  owed  its  prosperity.  Popu- 
lation, 8000. 

Tejuco,  the  capital  of  the  diamond  district  of  Serro  do  Frio,  is 
situated  in  a  most  dreary  tract,  where  all  the  necessaries  of  life 
must  be  brought  from  a  considerable  distance.  It  is  well  built, 
on  very  rugged  ground,  and  contains  6000  inhabitants,  of  which 
many  are  slaves  employed  in  searching  for  diamonds.  Villa  do 
Principe,  in  a  fine  country,  on  the  borders  of  the  diamond  dis- 
trict, enjoys  a  more  solid  prosperity,  and  contains  about  5000 
people. 

Cuyaba,  1000  miles  from  the  coast,  is  the  largest  inland  town 
in  Brazil :  it  is  in  the  midst  of  a  rich  gold  region,  and  contains 
30,000  inhabitants.  Villa  Bella,  still  farther  in  the  interior,  is 
on  the  Guapore,  one  of  the  head  branches  of  the  Madeira  :  it  is 
the  most  remote  inland  town  of  any  in  Brazil.  Its  population 
amounts  to  20,000. 


BUENOS   AYRES. 

Buenos  Ayres  is  the  title  given  to  an  extensive  region  of 
South  America,  which,  under  Spanish  dominion,  formed  a  part 
of  the  viceroyalty  of  the  Rio  de  la  Plata.  The  states  now  occu- 
pying the  territory  in  question,  were  the  first  in  this  quarter  that 
threw  off  the  yoke  of  Spain,  and  their  independence  was  acknow- 
ledged by  the  United  States  in  1822. 

In  the  year  1817  these  states  were  formed  into  a  republic, 
called  the  United  Provinces  of  the  Rio  de  la  Plata.  In  1826  it 
assumed  the  title  of  the  Argentine  Republic,  but  it  is  now  com- 
monly known  as  the  Republic  of  Buenos  Ayres.  This  union 
has  not  been  permanent.  Each  state  has  at  present  an  adminis- 
tration of  its  own,  though  repeated  attempts  have  been  made  to 
re-establish  a  united  government.  This  republic  comprised  14 
states,  with  a  population  of  about  700,000. 


States.  Capitals.       Population. 

Buenos  Ayres    Buenos  Ayres    70,000 

Entre  Rios  . . .  Parana 1,000 

Corrientes ....  Corrientes  ....  5,000 

Santa  F6 Santa  Fe 5,000 

Cordova Cordova 10,000 

Santiago Santiago 8,000 

Tucuman Tucuman 5,000 


States.  Capitals.       Population. 

Salta Salta 2,000 

Jujuy Jujuy 1,000 

Catamarca ....  Catamarca ....  2,000 

Rioja Rioja 

San  Juan  ....  San  Juan  ....  10,000 

San  Luis San  Luis 2,000 

Mendoza Mendoza 8,000 


244  SOUTH    AMERICA. 

Buenos  Ayres  being  the  leading  and  only  maritime  division, 
its  acts  are  often  considered  by  the  world  as  those  of  the  whole 
country.  The  similarity  in  natural  features  and  political  cha- 
racter of  these  states,  with  the  circumstance  of  their  having  once 
formed  a  recognised  national  body,  seem  to  render  a  description 
of  them,  under  one  head,  both  proper  and  necessary. 

The  republic  of  Buenos  Ayres  is  bounded  on  the  north  by 
Bolivia,  south  by  Patagonia,  east  by  the  territories  of  Paraguay 
and  Uruguay  and  the  Atlantic  ocean;  and  west  by  Chili.  It  is 
in  length  1200  miles,  and  in  breadth  700,  comprising  an  area  of 
750,000  square  miles. 

The  Andes  form  the  western  frontier  of  this  region,  and  some 
of  its  inferior  ridges  traverse  the  north-western  provinces :  the 
only  other  known  elevation  is  the  mountains  called  the  Sierra 
Vulcan,  which  rise  up  abruptly  in  the  pampas  about  250  miles 
south-west  from  Buenos  Ayres.  Nearly  the  whole  surface  of 
the  country  consists  of  vast  plains,  called  pampas,  which  stretch 
from  the  Atlantic  Ocean  to  the  Andes,  and  from  north  to  south 
through  the  entire  extent  of  the  territory. 

These  plains  resemble  the  prairies  of  North  America  and  the 
Llanos  of  Colombia,  being,  like  them,  destitute  of  trees,  covered 
with  tall  grass,  and  stretching  out  with  an  unbroken  surface  for 
hundreds  of  miles.  Several  rivers  and  lakes  are  found  in  them, 
but  in  general  they  are  scantily  watered.  Numerous  herds  of 
horses,  mules,  and  cattle,  graze  and  roam  over  these  vast  plains. 
The  rhea,  or  American  ostrich,  with  the  jaguar  and  several 
kinds  of  deer,  also  abound  on  them. 

The  Rio  de  la  Plata  is  the  principal  river  of  this  quarter.  It  is 
150  miles  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  is  navigable  as  high  as  Buenos 
Ayres.  This  great  stream  is  formed  by  the  union  of  the  Parana  and 
the  Uruguay ;  the  former  rises  in  Brazil,  and  after  flowing  1400 
miles  through  wild  and  unsettled  regions,  receives  the  Paraguay, 
which  also  originates  in  the  same  country.  The  Pilcomayo,  Ver- 
mejo,  and  Salado,  are  likewise  important  streams.  The  two  first 
are  tributary  to  the  Paraguay,  and  the  last  to  the  Parana.  The 
Colorado  and  Rio  Negro  are  the  principal  rivers  to  the  south  of 
the  Rio  de  la  Plata :  rising  in  the  Andes,  they  flow,  through 
desert  and  imperfectly  known  districts,  into  the  Atlantic  ocean. 
The  chief  lakes  are  the  Ibera,  Porongos,  Bebedero,  and  those  of 
Guanacache  ;  but  none  of  them  are  of  much  importance. 

The  agricultural  produce  of  this  country  consists  almost  en- 
tirely in  the  vast  herds  of  horses  and  horned  cattle,  which  cover 
its  boundless  plains.  The  Gaucho,  or  inhabitant  of  the  pampas, 
has  no  care  in  raising  or  feeding  cattle ;  he  has  only  to  throw 
over  them  the  lasso,  or  long  leather  noose,  to  kill  or  drive  them 


BUENOS    AYRES.  245 

to  Buenos  Ayres ;  and  in  the  case  of  horses,  to  break  and  put  a 
mark  on  them  by  which  they  may  be  afterwards  known. 

Beef  can  scarcely  be  said  to  bear  any  price  in  this  country, 
since  a  cow  may  be  had  for  three  or  four  dollars ;  and  the  hide 
is  worth  more  than  half  that  sum.  Wheat  and  barley,  for  which 
the  soil  is  perfectly  well  adapted,  are  cultivated  in  a  slovenly 
way  immediately  round  Buenos  Ayres  and  the  other  towns,  and 
the  grain  is  threshed  by  making  cattle  gallop  over  it. 

In  this  naked  and  exposed  region,  there  is  a  great  want  of  tim- 
ber for  fuel.  The  peach-tree  has  been  found  to  grow,  and  an- 
swer the  purpose  of  fuel  better  than  any  other,  and  the  fruit  is 
used  chiefly  for  feeding  swine.  There  is  scarcely  any  manufac- 
ture carried  on  here,  except  that  of  ponchos,  or  riding-cloaks, 
which  are  universally  worn.  The  indolence  which  the  South 
Americans  inherit  from  the  Spaniards,  will,  probably,  long  pre- 
vent them  from  becoming  a  manufacturing  people. 

The  commerce  of  Buenos  Ayres  is  considerable,  compared 
with  the  population.  The  country  is  dependent  on  foreign  sup- 
plies for  almost  every  article,  both  of  manufactured  goods  and 
colonial  produce,  and  even  for  grain ;  in  return  for  which  it 
gives  the  refuse  of  its  cattle,  hides,  horns,  and  tallow.  The  chief 
commerce  of  Buenos  Ayres  is  with  the  United  States  and  Great 
Britain.  A  very  considerable  inland  trade  is  also  carried  on  by 
large  wagons,  which  are  driven  across  the  pampas  to  Mendoza 
and  other  towns  at  the  foot  of  the  Andes.  They  carry  some 
manufactures  and  colonial  goods,  and  bring  back  wine,  brandy, 
and  mineral  produce. 

Society,  over  all  Spanish  America,  wears  a  very  uniform  as- 
pect. The  Creoles,  now  everywhere  the  ruling  class,  are  acute, 
polite,  and  indolent :  they  are,  at  the  same  time,  passionately  fond 
of  diversion,  especially  in  the  forms  of  dancing  and  gaming. 
Every  lady  holds  her  tertulia,  or  evening  party,  to  which  even 
the  passing  stranger  will  sometimes  be  invited.  They  are  less 
charged  with  intrigue,  however,  than  in  some  other  cities  of 
South  America.  The  conduct  of  the  young  ladies  is  very 
strictly  watched,  and  they  are  married  at  thirteen  or  fourteen. 

Horses  being  easily  procured  at  Buenos  Ayres,  it  is  an  object 
of  pride,  with  almost  every  individual,  to  keep  a  number,  of  fine 
quality,  on  the  equipment  of  which  they  often  bestow  more  care 
than  on  the  due  clothing  of  their  own  persons.  Every  one  has 
a  horse ;  even  the  beggar  begs  on  horse-back. 

The  Gauchos,  or  white  inhabitants  of  the  pampas,  live  in  rude 
independence,  and  are  a  very  singular  race.  The  gaucho  is  at 
once  the  most  active  and  the  most  indolent  of  mortals.  He  will 
scour  the  country  whole  days  at  full  gallop,  breaking  wild  horses, 

21  *  261 


246  SOUTH    AMERICA. 

or  chasing  the  jaguar  or  the  ostrich  ;  but  once  alighted  and  seat- 
ed on  the  skeleton  of  a  horse's  head,  nothing  can  induce  him  to 
move.  His  dwelling  is  a  mud  cottage,  with  one  apartment,  and 
so  swarming  with  insects,  that  in  summer  the  whole  family, 
wrapped  in  skins,  sleep  in  the  open  air.  All  around  is  a  wide 
desert,  with  the  exception  of  the  corral  or  circular  spot,  en- 
closed by  stakes,  into  which  the  cattle  are  driven.  Neither  grain 
nor  vegetables  are  cultivated  on  the  pampas,  nor  is  the  cow  made 
to  yield  milk. 

The  Catholic  religion  prevails  exclusively  in  these  states,  as 
over  all  South  America ;  but  the  splendour  of  the  churches,  and 
the  endowments  of  the  clergy,  appear  to  be  greater  here,  com- 
pared at  least  with  the  means  of  supporting  them,  than  in  any 
other  province.  Many  ecclesiastics  have  been  charged  with  lead- 
ing lives  much  at  variance  with  their  profession,  and  the  influ- 
ence of  the  church  has  somewhat  declined,  but  is  still  very  con- 
siderable. 

Knowledge,  as  in  the  other  new  states,  is  encouraged  by  the 
government,  without  having  yet  made  any  very  deep  impression 
on  the  body  of  the  people.  Several  large  schools  have  been 
established  on  the  plan  of  mutual  instruction,  and  an  university- 
has  even  been  founded,  but  as  yet  it  is  little  more  than  a  classi- 
cal school. 

The  city  of  Buenos  Ayres  is  situated  on  the  southern  bank  of 
the  Rio  de  la  Plata,  about  200  miles  above  its  mouth ;  and,  pre- 
senting the  spires  of  numerous  churches  and  convents,  makes 
rather  a  fine  appearance.  The  houses  are  built  of  brick,  white- 
washed, and  with  flat  roofs,  over  which  may  be  taken  a  pleasant, 
and  even  extensive  walk.  The  windows  are  protected  by  iron 
bars,  causing  each  mansion  to  form  a  complete  fortification.  The 
town,  on  the  whole,  is  rather  handsome,  especially  the  houses 
surrounding  the  great  square.  The  environs  on  the  land  side 
have  a  very  monotonous  aspect,  being  animated  neither  by  va- 
ried vegetation,  nor  by  the  chirping  of  birds.  The  population 
of  this  city  is  estimated  at  70,000.  Large  vessels  cannot  ap- 
proach nearer  than  two  or  three  leagues. 

Cordova  is  a  neat  small  town,  well  paved,  with  a  handsome 
cathedral  and  market-place.  It  possesses  the  only  university  in 
the  interior  provinces,  which  has  recently  produced  some  men 
of  considerable  eminence.  It  carries  on  a  manufacture  of  cloth, 
and  a  trade  in  mules.  Salta  is  a  considerable  place  of  400  houses 
situated  in  the  beautiful  valley  of  Lerma,  on  the  high  road  from 
Buenos  Ayres  to  Potosi.  It  is  the  capital  of  a  bishopric.  About 
60,000  mules  are  reared  in  the  neighbourhood.  An  annual  fair 
is  held  in  February  and  March  for  mules  and  horses. 


PARAGUAY.  247 

Tucuman  and  Santiago  del  Estero  are  old  towns,  situated  in 
fertile  plains,  and  deriving  some  importance  from  their  position 
on  the  main  route  from  Buenos  Ayres  to  Peru.  Corrientes,  at 
the  junction  of  the  Paraguay  and  the  Parana,  must,  from  this 
happy  situation,  rise  in  time  much  above  its  present  moderate 
importance.  Lower  down,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  is 
Santa  Fe,  distant  250  miles  from  Buenos  Ayres,  which  has  risen 
to  considerable  importance  by  becoming  a  depot  for  the  goods  on 
the  river.     Population,  5000. 

Mendoza,  near  the  base  of  the  Andes,  is  a  neat  town,  well 
built  of  brick,  the  streets  refreshed  by  streams  from  the  river, 
and  the  interior  of  the  houses  well  fitted  up.  The  population  is 
about  8000.  They  are  described  as  a  quiet,  well-disposed  peo- 
ple, though  they  give  themselves  up,  without  reserve,  to  the  indo- 
lence generated  by  the  climate,  enjoying  an  unbroken  siesta,  or 
sleep,  from  twelve  to  five  in  the  afternoon,  when  they  rise  to 
walk  on  the  alameda,  which  commands  a  noble  view  of  the  plain 
and  the  Andes  :  but  this  is  the  usual  train  of  life  in  these  interior 
cities. 

San  Luis,  to  the  east  of  Mendoza,  on  a  frequented  though  cir- 
cuitous route  from  Buenos  Ayres,  is  a  much  smaller  place,  con- 
sisting of  a  number  of  mud  huts,  scattered  over  a  large  space  of 
ground.  San  Juan,  to  the  north  of  Mendoza,  has  another  but 
much  less  frequented  route  through  the  Andes.  The  town  is 
said  to  contain  10,000  inhabitants. 


PARAGUAY. 


Paraguay  is  situated  between  the  Parana  and  Paraguay  rivers. 
It  is  a  fine  fertile  country,  nearly  500  miles  in  length,  and  up- 
wards of  200  in  breadth.  The  soil  is  extremely  fruitful,  and 
abounds  in  various  vegetable  productions  ;  and  vast  herds  of  cat- 
tle and  horses  feed  on  its  rich  pastures.  The  population  is  sup- 
posed to  be  about  150,000,  of  whom  7000  or  8000  are  probably 
whites,  and  the  remainder  mestizoes  and  Indians. 

This  state  declared  its  independence  in  the  year  1813,  and 
established  a  government  of  several  members.  In  about  three 
years  this  government  was  dissolved,  when  it  fell  under  the 
absolute  dominion  of  Doctor  Francia,  a  native  Creole,  who  as- 
sumed the  power  of  a  dictator,  and  rules  the  people  according  to 
his  own  will.  He  has  administered  the  government  with  great 
rigour  and  severity,  and  maintained  the  most  rigid  police  in  every 
part  of  his  territories.  He  has  strictly  prohibited  all  intercourse 
with  foreign  countries,  and  foreigners  who  enter  Paraguay  are 

Z*  293 


248  SOUTH    AMERICA. 

seldom  allowed  to  depart.  This  singular  man,  now  about  80 
years  of  age,  lives  without  pomp  or  parade,  and  though  he  some- 
times acts  with  severity  and  even  tyranny,  appears  to  maintain 
his  power  unimpaired. 

The  cabildo,  or  municipal  government  of  the  several  towns, 
is  chosen  annually  by  the  people.  Indians,  as  well  as  Creoles 
and  the  mixed  races,  are  eligible  to  these  offices.  All  the  inha- 
bitants are  instructed  in  the  first  rudiments  of  education.  Pub- 
lic schools  are  established  in  all  parts  of  the  country.  Every 
person  is  required  to.be  employed  at  some  business  or  other,  and 
mendicity  is  unknown. 

Assumpcion,  the  metropolis,  is  a  considerable  place,  with 
about  7000  inhabitants,  but  with  little  regularity  and  beauty. 
It  is  built  on  a  bank  above  the  river,  which  is  daily  washing 
away  part  of  the  ground  beneath  it.  This  place,  with  the  smaller 
ones  of  Curuguatty  and  Villa  Rica,  were  the  staples  for  the  herb 
of  Paraguay.  Neembuco,  Concepcion,  and  Itapua,  are  also 
small  towns,  with  a  population  of  2000  or  3000  each. 

The  Paraguay  tea,  which  derives  its  name  from  this  region, 
is  an  evergreen  plant  or  small  tree,  of  the  holly  family.  It 
grows  wild  in  the  woods  fringing  the  rivers  and  streams  which 
fall  into  the  Uruguay,  Parana  and  Paraguay.  The  use  of  this 
herb  is  general  in  Buenos  Ayres,  and  also  in  Chili,  Peru,  and 
some  parts  of  Colombia. 

The  custom  has  been  derived  from  the  aborigines.  To  drink 
this  infusion,  it  is  customary  to  put  a  pinch  of  the  leaves  into  a 
cup,  or  small  calabash  called  mate  (from  which  the  name  of  the 
plant,  yerva  mate,  is  derived,)  full  of  hot  water,  and  to  drink  off 
the  fluid  immediately,  by  imbibing  it  through  a  little  tube  or 
sucker,  pierced  with  holes  in  the  lower  part,  which  only  allow 
the  passage  of  the  water,  and  keep  back  the  leaves  that  float  on 
the  surface.  Sugar  and  a  little  lemon-peel  are  added  to  improve 
the  flavour.  It  is  usually  sipped  the  first  thing  in  the  morning, 
and  several  times  in  the  course  of  the  day.  The  Jesuits  planted 
many  of  these  trees  round  their  towns  and  missions,  for  the  con- 
venience of  preparing  and  exporting  the  leaf;  but  their  example 
has  not  been  followed,  and  the  plants  are  mostly  found  in  wild 
and  secluded  spots. 

The  South  Americans  ascribe  many  virtues  to  this  plant, 
which  is  certainly  aperient  and  diuretic.  Like  opium,  it  pro- 
duces some  singular  and  contrary  effects,  giving  sleep  to  the 
restless  and  spirit  to  the  torpid.  When  the  habit  is  formed  of 
taking  it,  it  is  difficult  to  leave  it  off.  When  taken  to  excess,  its 
effects  resemble  those  produced  by  excessive  indulgence  in  the 
use  of  strong  liquors. 


URUGUAY.  249 

URUGUAY. 

The  tract  of  country  which  lies  on  the  north  of  the  Rio  de  la 
Plata  and  on  the  east  of  the  Uruguay  river,  formerly  made  one 
of  the  United  Provinces  of  the  Rio  de  la  Plata,  under  the  name 
of  the  Banda  Oriental.  It  became  the  cause  of  an  obstinate  con- 
test between  Buenos  Ayres  and  Brazil,  and  was  for  a  time  incor- 
porated with  the  latter  power  under  the  title  of  the  Provincia  Cis- 
platina. 

The  war,  which  lasted  for  some  time,  was  ended  by  the  con- 
tending parties  agreeing  to  the  establishment  of  this  country  as 
an  independent  state,  which  took  the  title  of  the  Republic  of 
Monte  Video,  from  its  chief  town.  It  has  since  assumed  the 
title  of  the  Oriental  Republic  of  the  Uruguay,  but  is  commonly 
called  Uruguay.  It  is  nearly  600  miles  long  and  upwards  of 
200  miles  wide;  area  about  92,000  square  miles,  and  a  popula- 
tion of  75,000. 

Monte  Video,  the  capital  of  Uruguay,  stands  on  the  northern 
bank  of  the  Rio  de  la  Plata,  and  has  the  best  harbour  upon  that 
river.  It  has  suffered  severely  by  the  various  contests  of  which 
its  territory  has  been  the  theatre.  It  is  well  built,  with  wide  and 
regular  streets,  and  the  country  around  is  agreeably  diversified. 
The  gardens  abound  with  the  finest  fruits  and  flowers,  but  there 
is  otherwise  little  cultivation  ;  though  extensive  cattle  farms  are 
found  in  the  interior.  It  exports  large  quantities  of  hides.  The 
population  of  the  city,  much  reduced  by  the  events  of  the  war, 
is  now  about  15,000. 

Below  Monte  Video  is  the  small  port  of  Maldonado,  and  above 
it  the  still  smaller  one  of  Colonia  del  Sacramento,  with  a  good 
harbour. 

In  this  state,  on  the  upper  part  of  the  Uruguay  river,  are  the 
remains  of  some  of  the  settlements  and  towns  called  the  missions, 
where  the  Jesuits  collected  into  a  body  100,000  of  the  natives, 
from  the  ignorant,  wandering  and  fierce  tribes  in  the  vicinity, 
who  lived  under  their  sway,  and  paid  them  homage  bordering 
almost  on  adoration.  They  trained  them  to  arts  and  manufac- 
tures, instructed  them  in  letters,  taught  them  to  carry  on  agri- 
culture with  great  success,  and  armed  and  disciplined  them  in 
the  European  manner. 

The  Jesuits  appear  to  have  been  humane  and  enlightened  in 
their  intentions.  They  were,  however,  suspected  by  the  court 
of  Spain  of  aiming  at  the  establishment  of  an  independent  empire 
in  South  America,  subject  to  them  alone ;  and  on  the  suppres- 
sion of  the  order  in  Europe,  they  were  expelled  from  their  set- 
tlements, which,  being  taken  under  the  control  of  the  crown  until 


250  SOUTH  AMERICA. 

the  suppression  of  Spanish  authority  in  America,  have  fallen  into 
decay,  and  do  not  at  this  time  probably  contain  the  one-tenth  of 
the  population  of  their  days  of  prosperity. 


PATAGONIA. 

Patagonia,  the  southern  extremity  of  the  western  continent, 
is  a  cold  desolate  region,  the  interior  parts  of  which  are  but  little 
known.  It  is  about  1000  miles  in  length,  and  from  300  to  400 
in  breadth,  having  an  area  of  probably  370,000  square  miles. 

It  is  very  thinly  inhabited  by  an  Indian  race,  who  have  long 
drawn  the  attention  of  navigators  by  their  great  size,  and  have 
usually  been  described  by  them  as  a  nation  of  giants.  They  are 
divided  into  tribes,  of  which  the  Moluches  and  Puelches  appear 
to  be  the  principal.  The  Patagonians  are  said  to  be  excellent 
horsemen,  and  hunt  the  rhea,  or  American  ostrich,  which  is 
found  in  considerable  numbers  in  the  northern  part  of  their 
country.  Deer  of  various  kinds,  with  guanucos  and  horses, 
abound  in  the  interior,  and  seals  are  numerous  in  the  bays  and 
harbours. 

The  Andes  extend  along  the  eastei'n  coast  of  Patagonia,  but 
after  passing  Chili  they  no  longer  display  the  vast  height  which 
distinguishes  the  more  northern  part  of  the  range.  They  are 
supposed  not  to  exceed  3000  feet  in  general,  though  some  peaks 
rise  to  5000  or  6000,  which  wear  a  most  dreary  aspect,  being 
constantly  covered  with  ice  and  snow.  The  principal  rivers  of 
Patagonia  are  all  on  the  eastern  side,  and  flow  from  the  base  of 
the  Andes  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean. 

Terra  del  Fuego,  separated  from  Patagonia  by  the  Strait  of 
Magellan,  is  inhabited  by  a  few  miserable  savages  in  the  low- 
est state  of  wretchedness,  and  subsisting  solely  on  the  shell-fish 
which  they  pick  up  on  the  shore. 

Hermit  island,  immediately  south  of  Terra  del  Fuego,  is  re- 
markable as  containing  Cape  Horn,  the  most  southerly  point  of 
America,  and  facing  directly  the  vast  ocean  which  surrounds  the 
southern  pole. 


SOUTH   AMERICAN   ISLANDS. 

A  considerable  number  of  islands  are  scattered  around 
South  America,  none  of  which,  however,  are  of  much  import- 
ance. The  Gallapagos  are  a  numerous  group,  situated  on  the 
equator,  about  650  miles  west  from  the  coast  of  New  Grenada ; 


SOUTH   AMERICAN    ISLANDS.  251 

nine  of  them  only  are  of  considerable  size.  They  enjoy  a  fine 
climate  and  fertile  soil,  and  are  the  seat  of  volcanic  action. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Amazon  river  is  the  island  of  Joannes, 
belonging  to  Brazil.  It  is  little  more  than  a  vast  swamp,  and  is 
inhabited  by  Indians.  Fernando  de  Noronha,  about  200  miles 
north-east  from  Cape  St.  Roque,  belongs  also  to  Brazil,  and  is 
used  as  a  place  of  confinement  for  transported  convicts.  Of 
several  islands  lying  along  the  east  coast  of  Brazil,  the  most  im- 
portant is  Santa  Catharina.  It  is  a  fine  fertile  island,  and  is 
much  visited  by  vessels  in  want  of  refreshments.  The  town  of 
Desterro,  the  principal  on  the  island,  contains  5000  inhabitants. 

The  islands  of  St.  Felix,  Juan  Fernandez,  and  Chiloe,  belong 
to  Chili ;  the  latter  forms  the  most  southern  province  of  that  re- 
public. A  number  of  islands  extend  along  the  west  coast  of 
Patagonia ;  they  are  but  little  known,  and  are  cold,  barren,  and 
desolate  regions.  Wellington  island,  about  150  miles  in  length, 
is  the  principal  of  these.  Terra  del  Fuego,  or  Land  of  Fire,  lies 
south  of  Patagonia,  and  is  the  most  southern  part  of  tne  inhabited 
world.  The  name  is  derived  from  the  volcanic  fires  seen  on 
various  parts  of  the  coast.  Staten  Land  is  separated  from  Terra 
del  Fuego  by  the  strait  of  Le  Maire.  The  English  have  esta- 
blished a  settlement  on  this  island. 

South-east  from  Patagonia  are  several  groups  of  islands,  scat- 
tered at  various  distances  from  the  continent.  They  comprise 
the  Falkland  Islands,  South  Georgia,  and  Sandwich  Land. 

The  climate  of  these  islands  is  cold  and  severe,  and  their 
shores  are  rugged  and  barren.  They  are  all  uninhabited  ;  and, 
except  the  Falkland  group,  are  very  seldom  visited.  The  latter 
contains  many  good  harbours,  which  afford  shelter  to  the  whale 
and  seal  ships  which  navigate  the  southern  seas.  They  are 
claimed  both  by  Great  Britain  and  Buenos  Ayres. 

Further  to  the  south  are  the  islands  of  South  Shetland,  South 
Orkney,  Palmer's  Land,  and  Graham's  Land.  These  have  all 
been  discovered  since  the  year  1819.  They  are  desolate,  sterile 
regions,  covered  even  in  mid-summer  with  ice  and  snow,  and  are 
untenanted  by  a  single  human  being.  Their  shores  abound  with 
the  fur-seal,  sea  elephant,  and  vast  numbers  of  penguins.  Ves- 
sels from  Stonington,  and  other  ports  in  New  England,  frequent 
these  islands  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  seals,  the  furs  of 
which  are  very  fine  and  valuable. 


252  EUROPE. 


EUROPE. 

Europe  occupies  the  north-western  section  of  the  Eastern  Con- 
tinent, and  is  the  smallest  of  the  great  divisions  of  the  globe,  yet 
it  is  the  first  in  importance,  and  the  second  in  amount  of  popula- 
tion. It  has  become  the  chief  seat  of  learning,  civilization,  and 
the  arts,  and  its  inhabitants  are  more  intelligent,  enterprising,  and 
industrious  than  those  of  the  other  quarters  of  the  earth. 

Europe  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Arctic  Ocean,  and  on 
the  west  by  the  Atlantic ;  on  the  south  by  the  Mediterranean 
Sea,  the  Sea  of  Marmora,  the  Black  Sea,  and  the  Sea  of  Azov ; 
and  on  the  east  by  Asiatic  Russia.  It  is  in  extent  from  north 
to  south  about  2500  miles ;  and  from  east  to  west  in  the  widest 
part  2800  miles.  Area,  3,500,000  square  miles.  Population, 
230,000,000. 

This  quarter  of  the  world  is  deeply  penetrated  by  large  inland 
seas  and  numerous  gulfs,  which  afford  great  natural  advantages 
for  commercial  pursuits ;  and  this  circumstance  has  in  no  small 
degree  contributed  to  the  high  superiority  of  Europe  over  Asia 
and  Africa,  whose  deficiency  in  this  particular  has  been  one 
great  physical  obstacle  to  their  prosperity  and  civilization.  Of 
this  the  Mediterranean  may  be  regarded  as  an  example.  It  was 
one  of  the  principal  means  of  promoting  the  civilization  of 
ancient  Europe ;  and  art,  science,  commerce,  and  literature, 
gradually  advanced  into  the  interior  from  its  shores :  while  the 
vast  inland  plains  of  Russia  and  Poland,  presenting  a  different 
aspect,  remained,  even  after  the  civilization  and  improvement  of 
all  Western  Europe,  sunk  in  the  deepest  barbarism,  from  which 
they  are  but  slowly  and  with  difficulty  emerging. 

The  surface  of  Europe  is  greatly  diversified.  Its  mountains 
do  not  reach  that  stupendous  height,  nor  stretch  in  such  unbroken 
chains,  as  those  of  Asia  and  America.  The  principal  ranges 
of  mountains  are  the  Dofrafields,  the  Pyrenees,  the  Alps,  the 
Apennines,  the  Balkan,  and  the  Ural  mountains. 

The  interior  regions  of  Europe  are  well  watered,  though  none 
of  the  rivers  are  of  the  first  magnitude.  The  principal  of  them 
are  the  Volga,  Danube,  Don,  Dnieper,  Tagus,  Loire,  Rhine, 
Rhone,  Elbe,  and  Vistula.  But  few  of  the  lakes  of  Europe  are 
of  sufficient  magnitude  to  rank  as  inland  seas.  Those  alone 
entitled  to  this  distinction  are  the  Ladoga  and  the  Onega,  which 
form  a  sort  of  continuation  of  the  Gulf  of  Finland.  The  others 
worthy  of  notice  are  the  Wener  and  Wetter,  in  Sweden ;  the 
Swiss  lakes  of  Geneva,  Lucerne,  and  Constance ;  the  Platten 


EUROPE. 


Calla  Palustris.  Arctic  Kaspberry.  Reindeer  Moss. 

A  kind  of  bread  called  Missenbrod,  or  bread  of  famine,  is  made  by  the  Laplanders  of  the 
roots  of  the  Calla  Palustris.  The  plant  is  poisonous,  but  its  deleterious  properties  are  dissi- 
pated by  the  preparation  it  undergoes. 


Cranberry.  Cudbear. 

Cudbear  is  a  species  of  lichen  used  by  the  dyers ;  it  is  found  in  Sweden  and  Norway. 


Lime  Tree.  Iccla^  Moss. 

The  Lime  Tree  grows  extensively  in  Russia.    Of  the  inner  bark  vast  quantities  of  matting 
are  made,  also  ropes  and  coarse  paper. 

The  Iceland  Moss  is  esteemed  with  us  as  an  article  of  diet  in  consumptive  cases.    In  Iceland 
and  Northern  Europe,  the  people  use  it  often  as  food. 

299 


EUROPE, 


European  Brown  Bear. 


The  Wolf. 


Reindeer. 


Scottish  Greyhound. 


Pine  Marten. 


Hedgehog. 


Porcupine. 


EUROPE.  253 

Sea  or  Lake,  in  Austria ;  and  the  lakes  Garda,  Como,  and  Mag- 
giore,  in  Italy. 

The  European  soil  is  distinguished  for  productions,  perhaps 
surpassing  in  value  those  of  any  other  quarter  of  the  globe. 
Grain,  of  one  description  or  another,  is  raised  over  its  whole 
surface,  excepting  in  the  extreme  north ;  and  wines  are  produced 
throughout  all  its  southern  kingdoms.  In  hemp,  flax,  and  wool, 
those  staple  materials  of  clothing,  Europe  is  equally  pre-eminent. 
Silk,  another  valuable  commodity,  it  produces  copiously. 

Except  the  horse  and  the  camel,  for  which  Asia  is  renowned, 
Europe  contains  the  most  valuable  as  well  as  the  most  numerous 
breeds  of  domestic  animals.  Its  northern  forests  produce  the 
finest  timber  in  the  world,  with  the  exception  of  the  teak  ;  and 
its  iron,  the  most  useful  of  metals,  surpasses  that  of  the  rest  of 
the  world ;  but  all  the  more  valuable  substances,  gold,  silver, 
pearls,  and  precious  stones,  exist  in  an  extent  so  limited  as 
scarcely  to  be  deserving  of  mention.  The  cultivation  of  the 
soil  is  carried  on  with  much  greater  diligence  than  in  any  coun- 
tries except  in  the  south-east  of  Asia ;  while  in  science,  skill, 
and  the  extent  of  capital  employed  upon  it,  European  agriculture 
is  quite  unrivalled. 

In  manufacturing  industry,  this  quarter  of  the  world  has, 
within  these  few  last  centuries,  far  surpassed  all  the  others  of 
the  globe.  The  looms  and  workshops  of  Europe  yield  a  variety 
of  fine  and  beautiful  fabrics,  in  such  profusion,  and  at  so  cheap 
a  rate,  as  to  place  them  within  the  reach  of  almost  every  class 
of  society.  This  continent  thus  clothes  all  the  young  nations 
which  have  issued  from  her  own  bosom,  and  which  fill  nearly 
two  entire  quarters  of  the  habitable  earth. 

Commerce,  on  so  great  a  scale  as  to  connect  together  the  dis- 
tant quarters  of  the  world,  can  hardly  be  said  to  exist  out  of 
Europe.  European  vessels  are  found  in  the  utmost  bounds  of 
Asia  and  America,  in  the  snowy  regions  of  either  pole,  and  in 
the  ports  of  the  most  remote  parts  of  the  globe.  There  is 
hardly  a  place  on  earth,  however  distant,  affording  any  scope 
for  the  employment  of  commercial  capital,  which  is  not  imme- 
diately filled  with  the  same  promptitude  as  if  it  had  been  situated 
in  the  heart  of  Europe.  The  ships  of  that  continent  exceed 
those  of  all  the  others  in  number  and  dimensions,  and  are  more 
skilfully  navigated,  with  the  exception  of  those  belonging  to  the 
United  States,  which  have  formed  a  commercial  and  maritime 
system,  modelled  on  that  of  Europe — a  system  which  may  one 
day  surpass  the  original. 

The  native  animals  of  Europe  are  neither  so  varied  nor  so 
extensive  as  those  of  more  genial  climes.     The  most  useful  and 
22  2A  301 


254  EUROPE. 

important  of  the  domestic  kinds  have  been  introduced  from  other 
regions.  The  horse,  originally  from  Arabia,  or,  according  to 
the  opinion  of  some,  from  Tartary,  has,  by  cultivation  and  edu- 
cation, been  brought  to  a  high  state  of  perfection,  and  has  be- 
come varied  in  kind  to  a  great  extent.  The  ass,  the  dog,  and 
cat,  are  also  believed  to  have  an  eastern  origin.  The  ox,  one 
of  the  most  valuable  of  nature's  gifts  to  man,  appears  to  have 
existed  in  a  wild  state  over  the  whole  of  Europe,  but  whether  as 
a  distinct  species  or  a  mere  variety,  is  still  uncertain.  At  what 
time  this  breed  was  exterminated  from  the  open  forests  is  not 
known ;  but  it  was  confined  to  parks,  in  Britain,  long  before  the 
Reformation.  The  race  is  still  preserved  in  the  north  of  Eng- 
land ;  they  are  wholly  white,  with  a  black  muzzle. 

The  domestic  quadrupeds  which  administer  so  much  to  the 
necessities  and  happiness  of  the  human  race,  have  been  (particu- 
larly in  Britain)  improved  to  a  high  degree  of  excellence.  Of 
the  ox,  the  sheep,  and  the  hog,  there  is  a  vast  variety,  each  of 
which  possesses  some  valuable  peculiarity  which  renders  them 
so  essential  in  supplying  food  and  clothing  to  man ;  while  the 
horse,  the  ass,  and  the  dog,  assist  him  in  his  labours  or  protect 
his  property. 

In  the  extreme  northern  parts  of  the  continent,  the  great  white 
bear,  more  truly  perhaps  than  any  other  an  arctic  animal,  inha- 
bits the  shores  of  Nova  Zembla,  and  is  occasionally  seen  in 
other  parts :  it  is  the  same  as  the  American  quadruped  of  the 
same  name.  The  only  two  European  species  of  this  animal,  the 
brown  and  black  bear,  are  natives  of  the  northern  and  temperate 
regions  of  the  continent.  The  latter  differs  from  that  of  America 
in  many  essential  points.  The  wolf  and  the  fox,  under  different 
varieties  or  species,  appear  generally  distributed  over  Europe. 
To  these  may  be  added  the  lynx  and  wild  cat,  as  the  only  rapa- 
cious or  carnivorous  animals  of  this  region.  The  elk  and  the 
reindeer  are  well-known  inhabitants  of  the  northern  countries ; 
the  latter  giving  place  to  the  fallow-deer,  the  stag,  and  the  roe- 
buck, in  the  midland  parts  of  Europe. 

In  the  lofty  mountains  and  inaccessible  precipices  of  the  Alps 
and  Pyrenees,  the  chamois,  isard,  and  ibex,  still  live  in  partial 
security,  notwithstanding  the  daring  intrepidity  of  their  hunters. 
The  musmon  is  another  European  quadruped,  deserving  notice 
as  being  generally  considered  the  origin  of  all  our  domestic 
breeds  of  sheep.  It  appears  still  to  exist  in  a  state  of  nature 
among  the  high  mountains  of  Corsica  and  Sardinia,  and  although 
extirpated  upon  the  continent,  is  well  ascertained  to  have  formerly 
been  common  in  the  mountains  of  Asturia  in  Spain,  and  other 
parts.     The  beaver  is  found  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Rhine,  the 


EUROPE. 


Poland  Marmot. 


Stoat. 


Wild  Scottish  Ox 


Muemon,  or  Wild  Sheep. 


Long- Homed  Ox. 


Hereford  Sheep. 


Merino  Sheep. 


Wallachiun  Sheep. 


EUROPE. 


Golden  Eagle. 


Fulvous  Vulture.  Great  Cincrous  Vulture. 


Iceland  Falcon. 


Kestril. 


Wimbrel. 


Golden  Oriole. 


'-^^^}^^k^=- 


Pelican. 


304 


EUROPE.  255 

Rhone,  the  Danube,  and  other  of  the  larger  European  rivers.  It 
is,  however,  uncertain  whether  it  is  precisely  the  same  as  the 
American  species. 

The  domesticated  birds  of  Europe,  brought  from  other  quar- 
ters, are  the  turkey  from  America,  the  peacock  and  common 
fowl  from  India,  the  Guinea-fowl  from  Africa,  and  the  pheasant 
from  Asia  Minor.  The  rapacious  birds,  as  in  other  regions,  are 
the  smallest  in  number,  but  the  most  formidable  in  strength. 
The  golden,  imperial,  white-tailed,  and  sea-eagle,  are  found  in 
various  parts  of  the  continent. 

On  the  highest  summits  of  the  Alps,  and  in  the  vast  forests 
which  clothe  their  sides,  in  Switzerland  and  the  Tyrol,  are  found 
all  the  four  species  of  the  European  vulture,  of  which  the  most 
formidable  is  the  bearded  vulture,  or  vulture  of  the  Alps.  It  is 
the  largest  of  European  birds,  being  four  feet  and  a  half  in  length, 
and  its  strength  is  so  great  that  it  attacks  sheep,  lambs,  and  young 
stags,  and  even  the  chamois  and  ibex  fall  victims  to  its  rapacity. 
It  builds  in  such  inaccessible  precipices  that  its  nest  is  very  rarely 
seen.  The  vulture  is  seldom  found  north  of  the  Alps,  and  is 
most  numerous  in  the  southern  parts  of  the  continent. 

The  goshawk  is  found  in  Scotland,  France,  and  Germany. 
Great  use  was  formerly  made  of  this  bird  in  falconry.  Many 
species  of  owls  are  known  in  Europe ;  also,  crows  of  various 
kinds,  many  species  of  woodpecker,  snipe,  grosbeaks,  bullfinches, 
buntings,  finches,  linnets,  larks,  &c.  The  grouse,  of  various 
species,  are  highly  prized  as  game :  the  largest,  the  cock  of  the 
rock,  the  size  of  a  small  turkey,  is  found  in  Russia :  the  cock  of 
the  wood  is  a  fine  bird,  found  in  the  high  mountainous  parts  of 
the  continent ;  it  lives  mostly  in  pine  forests  and  upon  the  leaves 
of  fir  trees.     The  partridge  and  quail  are  universally  diffused. 

The  bustard,  among  the  largest  of  European  birds,  being  four 
feet  long,  is  common  in  Spain,  Italy,  and  Turkey.  These  birds 
run  with  great  rapidity,  but  fly  with  difficulty,  and  are  oftentimes 
hunted  by  greyhounds.  The  beautiful  wall-creeper,  with  its 
bright  rosy  wings,  the  golden  oriole,  the  bee-eater,  the  hoopoo, 
and  the  roller,  four  of  the  most  beautiful  European  birds,  are 
common  in  Italy  and  Sicily ;  also  the  pelican,  the  spoonbill,  and 
the  flamingo,  although  from  their  large  size  attracting  the  atten- 
tion of  sportsmen,  they  are  never  seen  in  any  considerable  num- 
bers. 

The  seas  and  coasts  of  Europe  abound  to  a  great  extent  with 
fish  and  marine  animals  of  various  kinds,  some  of  which  exist 
in  vast  numbers,  and  are  of  great  importance  in  a  national  point 
of  view,  affording  food  and  employment  to  thousands  of  fisher- 
men :  this  is  especially  the  case  with  the  codfish  on  the  shores 


256  EUROPE. 

of  Norway,  and  the  herring  of  the  British  coast.  The  countless 
myriads  of  these  fish  which  visit  annually  the  northern  shores 
of  Europe,  migrate  from  the  Arctic  seas,  and  appear  off  the  Shet- 
land Isles  in  April  and  May :  they  frequently  move  in  columns 
of  five  or  six  miles  in  length,  and  three  or  four  in  breadth. 

The  pilchards,  on  the  southern  coast  of  England,  and  the  sar- 
dines, on  that  of  France,  are  caught  to  a  great  extent.  The 
herring  is  but  little  if  at  all  known  on  the  Mediterranean ;  a  sub- 
stitute, however,  exists  in  the  enormous  shoals  of  anchovies  found 
on  the  coasts  of  Spain,  France,  and  Italy,  which  employ  annu- 
ally in  their  capture  and  preparation  a  great  number  of  persons, 
and  the  exportation  of  this  highly-flavoured  little  fish  to  all  parts 
of  the  world  creates  an  important  branch  of  permanent  com- 
merce. The  tunny  fishery  is  peculiar  to  Sicily  and  Malta,  but 
is  not  pursued  to  the  same  extent  as  formerly. 

The  people  of  Europe  are  divided  chiefly  into  three  great  races, 
which  differ  essentially  in  language,  political  situation,  and  habits 
of  life.     These  are  the  Sclavonic,  the  Teutonic,  and  the  Romish. 

The  Sclavonic  race  consists  of  about  40,000,000  of  Russians, 
from  18,000,000  to  20,000,000  of  Poles,  Lithuanians,  and  Letts, 
and  about  10,000,000  of  other  races,  known  under  the  names  of 
Wends,  Tcheches,  Slawakes,  Croats,  and  Morlachians,  which 
have  found  their  way  into  eastern  Germany,  Hungary,  and 
Illyria.  The  Sclavonians  are,  in  general,  less  improved  than 
other  Europeans.  They  are  chiefly  subjected  to  absolute  mon- 
archy, and  the  greater  part  of  them  are  only  beginning  to  emerge 
from  the  degrading  condition  of  personal  slavery.  The  majority 
profess  that  form  of  Christianity  acknowledged  by  the  Greek 
Church. 

The  Teutonic  race  occupies  generally  the  centre  and  north  of 
Europe ;  besides  Germany,  their  original  seat,  they  have  filled 
the  greater  part  of  Scandinavia,  the  Netherlands,  and  Great 
Britain,  and  may  be  reckoned  at  70,000,000.  The  Teutonic 
people  generally  are  brave,  hardy,  intelligent,  and  industrious, 
though  somewhat  blunt  and  unpolished.  All  the  sciences,  and 
even  the  arts,  both  useful  and  ornamental,  have  been  carried 
among  them  to  the  highest  perfection.  A  great  majority  of  the 
Teutonic  nations  are  Protestants ;  and  that  profession  is  in  a 
great  measure  confined  to  them,  and  to  the  nations  in  the  other 
parts  of  the  world  who  have  sprung  from  them. 

The  Romish  race  comprehends  the  modern  inhabitants  of 
France,  Italy,  Spain,  &c.  They  were  the  most  early  civilized 
of  the  modern  nations,  and  have  carried  the  polish  of  manners 
and  the  cultivation  of  the  elegant  arts  to  a  higher  pitch  than  any 
other    known    race.     In    solid  energy  and  intelligence,  they 


EUROPE. 


Sturnus  Unicolor,  or  Starling. 


Quail. 


Ptarmigan. 


Red  Grouse. 


Mocking  Jay. 


European  Kingfisher. 


EUROPE. 


Great  Bustard. 


European  Bee-Eater. 


Woodchat. 


British  Herring 


Watery  Eft. 


Scorpion. 


308 


EUROPE.  257 

scarcely  equal  the  Teutonic  nations.  The  Roman  Catholic  is 
the  ruling  religion  in  all  these  countries,  and  has  among  them 
her  chief  seat.     This  race  numbers  about  70,000,000. 

Certain  interesting  and  ancient  races  remain  to  be  mentioned. 
They  are  the  Gael,  the  Cymri,  and  the  Basques,  the  descendants 
of  the  Celts,  the  most  ancient  possessors  of  western  Europe. 
The  first  inhabit  the  chief  part  of  Ireland,  and  the  highlands  of 
Scotland  ;  the  Cymri,  partly  Wales,  and  the  west  and  south  of 
France,  and  in  the  north  of  Spain,  where  they  are  called  Basques. 
They  are  probably  about  7,000,000  in  number,  of  which  the 
Gael  amount  to  4,650,000;  the  Cymri  1,700,000;  and  the 
Basques  650,000. 

The  Greeks,  once  the  most  illustrious  of  all  the  races,  inhabit 
Greece  and  different  parts  of  the  Turkish  empire.  Depressed 
by  two  thousand  years  of  slavery,  they  had  ceased  to  display 
those  high  attributes  which  excited  the  admiration  of  mankind ; 
but  the  prospects  of  independence  which  they  have  now  opened 
for  themselves,  afford  some  hope  that  they  may  regain  their 
place  in  the  scale  of  nations.  Their  number  may  be  about 
2,500,000.  The  Jews,  that  singularly  interesting  people,  are 
spread  through  all  Europe,  but  especially  the  eastern  countries, 
Poland,  Russia,  and  Turkey :  they  are  supposed  to  amount  to 
2,500,000.  The  Gypsies,  in  an  humbler  sphere,  are  widely 
scattered  over  all  Europe,  to  the  supposed  number  of  500,000, 
a  wild,  roaming,  demi-savage  race,  of  unknown  but  probably 
Asiatic  origin.  Other  races  are,  the  Turks,  the  ruling  people 
in  the  Ottoman  empire ;  and  the  Magyars,  who  prevail  in  Hun- 
gary and  Transylvania,  these  are  originally  Asiatic.  The  former 
amount  to  5,500,000  ;  the  latter  to  3,000,000. 

In  religion,  the  nations  of  Europe  are  almost  entirely  Chris- 
tian ;  and  the  small  population  of  Mahomedans  who  have  found 
their  way  into  it  consist  of  Asiatic  races,  Turks,  and  Tartars. 
The  Jews,  however  generally  diffused,  have  nowhere  a  national 
church,  nor  are  they,  in  any  nation,  fully  identified  with  the 
body  of  the  people.  The  Christians  of  Europe  are  divided  into 
three  great  churches,  the  Greek,  the  Latin  or  Roman  Catholic, 
and  the  Protestant.  The  Roman  Catholic  church  comprises 
the  greatest  number  of  followers :  they  amount  probably  to 
120,000,000,  the  Protestant  church  52,000,000,  and  the  Greek 
50,000,000.  The  Mahomedans  are  about  5,500,000  in  number, 
and  the  Jews  2,500,000. 

In  learning,  refinement,  and  all  the  various  pursuits  which 
develope  and  enlarge  the  mental  faculties,  Europe  has  far  sur- 
passed all  the  other  parts  of  the  earth.  The  most  useful  inven- 
tions, the  finest  productions  of  genius,  and  the  improvement  of 
22*  *» 


258  EUROPE. 

all  the  sciences,  belong  to  the  people  of  this  region.  Universi- 
ties and  colleges  are  numerous  in  almost  all  European  countries. 
Some  of  these  are  endowed  with  extensive  funds,  valuable  libra- 
ries, and  botanic  gardens,  and  have  numerous  professors.  They 
attract  many  students  from  various  quarters,  of  whom  some  are 
from  our  own  country,  and  other  parts  of  the  New  World. 

These  institutions  provide  for  the  higher  classes  of  learning, 
and  are  generally  on  a  larger  scale  than  any  in  America.  Their 
advantages,  however,  are  seldom  attainable  by  the  poorer  classes 
of  society.  In  several  parts  of  Europe  the  common  branches 
of  school  education  are  much  neglected,  and  the  lower  orders 
of  the  people  are  not  so  well  instructed  as  in  the  United  States. 
Numbers  of  them  are  unable  to  read  or  write ;  and  in  some 
countries,  as  in  Russia,  Poland,  &c,  they  are  extremely  ignorant, 
degraded,  and  bigoted. 

Schools  for  instructing  the  poorer  classes  are  most  numerous 
in  Prussia,  Switzerland,  Holland,  Belgium,  and  Scotland.  In  the 
latter  country,  more  of  the  people  receive  a  learned  education 
than  elsewhere.  England,  Germany,  and  France,  excel  in  lite- 
rature and  science,  and  Italy  is  distinguished  for  proficiency  in 
the  fine  arts. 

The  prevailing  governments  of  Europe  are  either  absolute  or 
limited  monarchies.  Russia,  Austria,  Naples,  Denmark,  Prussia, 
Sardinia,  &c,  are  governed  by  absolute  monarchs  according  to 
fixed  laws ;  while  Great  Britain,  France,  Holland,  Belgium, 
Sweden,  Norway,  &c,  are  presided  over  by  sovereigns,  whose 
power  is  limited  by  the  existence  of  representative  assemblies, 
having  the  right  of  enacting  laws  and  regulating  taxation.  Hun- 
gary, though  attached  to  an  absolute  monarchy,  enjoys  the 
advantages  of  a  representative  government,  and  national  repre- 
sentatives are  guarantied  to  the  states  composing  the  Germanic 
confederation.  The  only  example  of  pure  despotism  in  Europe 
is  to  be  found  in  the  Turkish  empire  ;  and  Switzerland  is  the  only 
independent  republic  of  any  magnitude,  the  others  comprising 
little  more  than  individual  cities. 

The  European  states  which  rank  highest  in  the  scale  of 
national  importance  are  Great  Britain,  France,  Russia,  Austria, 
and  Prussia.  These  are  called  the  five  great  powers,  and  have 
formed  among  themselves  an  alliance,  or  balance  of  power, 
which  sets  bounds  to  the  encroachments  of  any  particular  state. 
These  great  monarchies  direct  and  control  the  affairs  of  every 
European  nation,  and  more  or  less  influence  the  destinies  of  all 
civilized  countries. 

Europe  comprises  61  independent  states  :  of  these,  three  are 
styled  empires,  16  kingdoms,  seven  grand  duchies,  one  electorate, 

310 


SWEDEN  AND  NORWAY.  259 

11  duchies,  one  landgraviate,  11  principalities,  one  lordship,  one 
ecclesiastical  state,  and  nine  republics.  The  governments  of  the 
last  mentioned  are  based  mostly  upon  aristocratic  principles,  and 
their  existence  depends  chiefly  on  the  sufferance  of  the  larger 
powers.  There  are  also  several  countries  styled  kingdoms,  which 
yet  are  dependent  states  ;  as  the  Lombardo-Venetian  kingdom  ; 
the  kingdoms  of  Hungary  and  Galicia,  in  Austria,  and  the  king- 
dom of  Norway,  forming  part  of  the  Swedish  monarchy. 

EXTENT  AND  POPULATION  OF  EUROPE. 

States.  Area  in  squ.  m.       Fopulat'n.  States.  Area  in  squ.  m.      Populat'n. 


Sweden  and  Norway 297,000. .  .4,000,000 

Russia  and  Poland 1,755,000.  .49,000,000 

Denmark 22,000.  ..2,100.000 

Holland 11,000. .  .2,800,000 

Belgium 13,000. .  .4,200,000 

Great  Britain  and  Ireland  121,000.  .25.000,000 

France 205,000.  .32,500,000 

Spain 183,000. .  12,000,000 

Portugal 59,000. .  .3,600,000 

Prussia 107,000.-14,000,000 


Austria 259,000.  .33,000,000 

German  States 102,000.  .15,000,000 

Switzerland 15,000.    .2,000,000 

Italy 122,000.  .21,000,000 

Ionian  Islands 1000 190,000 

Greece 21,000  . . .  .610,000 

Turkey 207,000. .  .9,000,000 


Total  230,000,000 


SWEDEN   AND   NORWAY. 

Sweden  and  Norway,  now  united  into  one  kingdom,  com- 
prise an  extensive  region,  stretching  from  the  Baltic  Sea  to  the 
Arctic  Ocean.  The  whole  country  forms  a  vast  peninsula  up- 
wards of  1200  miles  in  length,  and  from  300  to  500  in  breadth. 
Area,  297,000  square  miles. 

The  northern  part  of  this  region  is  exposed  to  all  the  rigours 
of  an  arctic  winter :  the  sun  continues  above  the  horizon  in  sum- 
mer for  two  months  and  a  half,  and  in  winter  remains  below  it 
for  an  equal  space  of  time.  The  summer  is  short,  and  succeeds 
the  winter  so  suddenly  that  spring  hardly  exists.  The  southern 
parts,  however,  of  both  Sweden  and  Norway,  especially  the  for- 
mer, contain  many  fertile  and  well-cultivated  districts. 

The  climate,  though  subject  to  great  and  sudden  changes,  is 
nevertheless  healthful ;  and  many  of  the  inhabitants,  especially 
of  Norway,  live  to  a  great  age.  Extensive  forests  cover  a  large 
portion  of  the  country,  and  but  a  small  part  of  it  is  suited  to 
farming.  The  commerce  of  this  kingdom  is  greater  than  its 
unimproved  agriculture  and  total  want  of  manufactures  might 
lead  us  to  suppose.  But  nature  has  gifted  these  bleak  territories 
with  an  almost  inexhaustible  store  of  timber  and  iron,  two  of  the 
prime  necessaries  of  human  life. 

The  exports  of  Norway  are  estimated  at  near  9,000,000  dol- 
lars annually.     The  commerce  of  Sweden  is  inferior  in  amount, 


260  EUROPE. 

her  surplus  timber  being  not  quite  so  ample,  though  her  iron  is 
superior.  The  manufactures  of  both  countries  are  inconsidera- 
ble, and  the  products  of  their  industry  cannot  sustain  a  competi- 
tion with  those  of  other  nations.  Even  in  the  common  trades, 
the  work  is  lazily  and  ill  performed,  and  charged  at  a  high  rate, 
which  renders  this  the  most  expensive  country  in  Europe  for 
those  who  live  luxuriously. 

The  mines  of  silver,  copper,  lead,  and  especially  iron,  consti- 
tute the  chief  wealth  of  this  country.  The  principal  silver  and 
copper  mines  are  in  Sweden.  The  mines  of  Fahlun  have  been 
worked  upwards  of  1000  years,  and  produce  1,500,000  pounds 
of  copper  annually.  Large  quantities  of  excellent  iron  have 
been  worked  in  Sweden,  and  it  likewise  produces  porphyry,  rock- 
crystal,  cobalt,  alum,  and  antimony.  The  mines  of  Norway  are 
less  productive  than  formerly. 

Agriculture  is  the  employment  of  the  chief  part  of  the  popu- 
lation. In  Sweden  the  land,  except  in  some  of  the  northern  dis- 
tricts, is  principally  in  the  hands  of  a  few  rich  proprietors,  and 
the  peasants  and  labourers  are  little  better  than  slaves.  Much 
of  the  soil  is  sterile,  and  sometimes  there  is  not  sufficient  grain 
raised  for  the  support  of  the  people,  and  occasionally  the  poor  in 
both  divisions  of  the  kingdom  grind  the  bark,  or  even  wood  of 
the  fir-tree,  and  mix  it  with  their  flour.  Barley,  oats,  and  rye, 
are  the  principal  grains  ;  and  potatoes,  hemp,  and  flax,  and  some 
tobacco,  are  cultivated  in  the  southern  districts. 

Sweden  comprises  three  general  divisions,  Gothland,  Sweden 
Proper,  and  Norrland,  which  are  divided  into  26  lans  or  govern- 
ments. Norway  comprises  four  dioceses  or  governments,  which 
are  divided  into  22  provinces.  The  population  of  Sweden  is 
2,880,000;  of  Norway,  1,120,000:  total,  4,000,000. 

The  religion  of  the  kingdom  is  Lutheran,  and  the  church  Epis- 
copal. Tn  Sweden,  however,  the  system  is  burthened  with  much 
form  and  ceremony.  The  Catholics  labour  under  a  restricted 
toleration,  and  are  excluded  from  the  Diet  and  the  higher  offices 
of  state.  In  Norway  education  is  more  general  than  in  the  ad- 
joining kingdom,  where  the  lower  classes  seldom  learn  more  than 
to  read  sufficiently  to  understand  the  catechism  and  to  entitle 
them  to  church  confirmation.  In  Sweden  there  is  much  refine- 
ment of  taste  and  manners  diffused  among  the  better  classes, 
while,  in  the  inferior,  intemperance  and  pauperism  extensively 
prevail ;  and  in  1825  one-fifth  of  the  population  required  public 
relief. 

There  are  universities  at  Upsal,  Lund,  and  Christiania ;  and  a 
number  of  gymnasia  or  colleges  in  both  countries. 

Sweden  and  Norway  have  different  constitutions,  though  under 


NORWAY.  2G1 

the  government  of  one  and  the  same  king,  who  is,  of  all  the  con- 
stitutional monarchs  of  Europe,  one  of  the  most  limited.  The 
legislative  body  of  Sweden,  styled  the  Diet  or  States  General, 
consists  of  four  orders,  the  nobles,  the  clergy,  the  burgesses,  and 
the  peasantry.  In  Norway  nobility  is  abolished  ;  and  the  legis- 
lative body,  styled  the  Storthing,  consists  of  two  houses. 

The  latter  body  is  possessed  of  much  higher  privileges  than 
the  Swedish  Diet.  It  assembles  more  frequently,  and  at  its  own 
time,  without  any  control  from  the  king ;  and  any  bill  sanctioned 
three  times  by  the  Storthing,  becomes  a  law,  without  his  approval. 
The  executive  power  of  Norway  is  administered  by  a  viceroy  or 
governor. 

The  military  force  of  this  kingdom  is  at  present  138,000  men; 
regular  army,  45,000  ;  landwehr  or  militia,  93,000.  The  troops 
are  raised  by  conscription  ;  they  only  receive  pay  when  in  actual 
service,  remaining  at  other  times  in  the  provinces,  where  they 
employ  themselves  in  cultivating  lands  assigned  to  them  for  their 
support.  The  navy  comprises  ten  ships  of  the  line,  eight  frigates, 
two  steam-ships,  and  upwards  of  200  gun-boats. 

The  Swedish  and  Norwegian  dialects  differ  but  little  from  each 
other,  and  are  closely  allied  to  the  Danish.  The  habits,  manner, 
and  character  of  the  two  nations,  have,  to  some  extent,  a  general 
resemblance :  they  are  both  lively  and  cheerful  in  disposition ; 
hospitable;,  brave,  and  warlike,  and  strongly  attached  to  their 
respective  countries.  The  principal  difference  consists  in  the  su- 
perior moral  and  religious  condition  of  the  people  of  Norway. 


NORWAY. 

Norway  was  united  to  Denmark  in  the  year  1380,  and  con- 
tinued to  form  a  part  of  the  Danish  monarchy  until  1814,  when 
it  was  annexed  to  Sweden.  It  is,  however,  so  far  independent, 
that  the  finances,  legislation,  and  administration,  are  distinct. 
The  press  is  free,  and  a  highly  republican  spirit  prevails. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  mountainous  countries  in  Europe,  and 
it  abounds  in  sublime  and  romantic  scenery.  Numerous  streams 
descend  from  the  mountains,  but  none  are  navigable  except  to  a 
very  limited  extent,  and  the  only  river  considerable  for  length  is 
the  Glommen,  which  flows  into  the  sea  in  the  southern  part  of 
the  country.  Cataracts  and  shoals  obstruct  its  course  in  every 
part,  and  the  only  use  to  which  it  is  applied  is  that  of  floating 
down  timber  from  the  mountains. 

There  are  numerous  lakes  in  this  country,  but  none  of  them 
are  of  any  magnitude.     The  inlets  of  the  sea,  which  indent  the 


262  EUROPE. 

whole  coast  of  Norway,  are  almost  innumerable :  they  are 
called  in  the  language  of  the  country  fiords ;  but  few  of  them, 
however,  afford  good  harbours. 

The  northern  part  of  this  region,  called  Norrland,  is  extremely 
cold  and  rugged.  Grain,  even  of  the  coarsest  descriptions, 
ripens  only  in  a  few  favoured  spots.  The  climate,  however,  is 
somewhat  milder  than  that  of  regions  under  the  same  latitude  on 
the  Baltic ;  so  that,  while  the  ports  of  Stockholm  and  Carlscrona 
are  shut  during  several  months  of  the  year,  those  of  Norrland 
remain  continually  open. 

This  dreary  district  is  chiefly  remarkable  for  being  the  princi- 
pal seat  of  the  Norwegian  fishery,  a  branch  which  constitutes 
an  important  part  of  the  industry  of  the  country.  During  the 
whole  year,  the  herring  affords  a  regular  occupation  to  the  Norr- 
land boatmen  ;  but  from  February  to  April,  the  shoals,  migrating 
from  thence,  and  from  all  the  surrounding  coasts,  crowd  to  the 
Loffbden  Islands,  the  central  seat  of  the  northern  fishery. 

These  islands  form  a  chain  parallel  to  the  land,  and  separated 
by  narrow  channels,  through  which  the  tides  of  the  Northern 
Ocean  rush  with  tremendous  rapidity.  Malstrom,  the  famous 
whirlpool,  when  the  tide  is  high,  produces  the  effect  of  a  mighty 
cataract.  Waves  are  seen  struggling  against  waves,  towering 
aloft,  or  wheeling  about  in  whirlpools  ;  the  dashing  and  roaring 
of  which  are  heard  many  miles  out  at  sea. 

Christiania,  the  capital  of  Norway,  is  situated  at  the  head  of  a 
long  interior  bay.  It  is  chiefly  supported  by  the  trade  in  deals 
or  lumber ;  and  those  cut  in  its  saw-mills  are  considered,  by  the 
traders  in  this  article,  to  be  superior  to  all  others.  Some  of  the 
merchants  of  this  city  have  acquired  great  wealth.  The  build- 
ings are  regular,  and  mostly  of  stone ;  so  that,  in  the  course  of 
200  years,  while  other  Scandinavian  towns  have  been  repeatedly 
reduced  to  ashes,  Christiania  has  suffered  only  slight  injury  from 
fire.  Since  the  union  with  Sweden,  it  has  received  an  university, 
with  two  professors,  who  have  moderate  incomes,  chiefly  derived 
from  grain.     Population,  21,000. 

There  are  other  havens  of  some  importance  in  this  southern 
tract  of  Norway.  On  the  western  coast  of  Christiania  fiord,  the 
two,  Bragenses  and  Stromsoe,  unite  in  forming  what  is  called 
Dram,  or  Drammen,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  that  name. 
Tongsberg,  at  the  bottom  of  the  same  side,  is  a  town  of  some 
ancient  celebrity,  but  now  a  good  deal  decayed.  On  the  eastern 
side  of  the  same  bay  is  Moss,  watered  by  a  stream  turning  20 
saw-mills,  by  which  an  immense  quantity  of  boards  is  prepared 
for  exportation.  Frederickshall,  an  ancient  and  still  important 
frontier  town,  is  beautifully  situated  in  an  interior  bay,  winding 


NORWAY. 


Norwegian  Peasants,  in  their  Summer  dress. 

In  winter,  the  Norwegians,  besides  ample  woollen  clothing,  use  sheep-skin  and  bear-skin 
cloaks,  and  close  fur  caps.  Over  their  stockings  they  wear  stout  leather  boots ;  and  above 
these  boots,  made  of  reindeer-hide  lined  with  sheepskin;  woollen  gloves,  covered  with  others 
made  of  fur,  or  sheep-skin  with  the  wool  shorn  close,  are  common. 


View  of  Christiania,  the  chief  town  in  Norway. 


View  of  Bergen. 


EUROPE. 


View  of  Uiontii 


=§^ 


Pass  of  Swinsund,  in  the  south-east  part  of  Norway. 

This  Pass,  or  Strait,  is  near  the  fortress  of  Frederickstadt,  the  scene  of  the  death  of  Charles 
XII.  It  is  formed  by  an  arm  of  the  sea,  which  flows  between  rugged  rocks,  and  presents  a 
highly  lomantic  and  picturesque  scene. 


Norwegian  killing  a  Bear. 

Bears  are  found  in  the  depths  of  the  thick  forests  that  pervade  many  parts  of  Norway,  and 
are  sometimes  killed  by  the  peasants  in  the  daring  manner  shown  in  the  engraving. 

316 


SWEDEN.  263 

among  mountains.  Near  it  is  the  strong  fortress  of  Frederick- 
stack,  the  scene  of  the  death  of  Charles  XII. 

The  town  of  Bergen,  at  the  head  of  a  long  interior  bay,  was 
foi'merly  accounted  the  capital  of  Norway,  and  contains  a  popu- 
lation of  22,000.  Its  commerce,  which  is  considerable,  is  found- 
ed on  the  exportation,  less  of  the  produce  of  the  country  behind 
it,  than  of  the  northern  fishery  at  the  Loffoden  Isles,  of  which 
the  produce  is  brought  to  Bergen  by  numerous  barks.  Its  mer- 
chants had  long  the  monopoly  of  this,  and  still  retain  much  the 
greatest  share.  They  are  chiefly  Dutch,  and  send  a  vessel 
weekly  to  Amsterdam  for  a  supply  of  the  garden  stuffs  which 
their  own  soil  does  not  yield.  Bergen  consists  of  large  masses 
of  wooden  houses,  built  amid  rocks,  and  has  suffered,  at  various 
times,  severely  by  fire. 

Drontheim  is  situated  on  the  shore  of  a  winding  fiord,  but 
subsists  less  by  foreign  commerce  than  by  the  internal  communi- 
cation between  numerous  valleys  and  districts,  to  which  it  forms 
a  central  point  of  union.  The  society  is  always  held  forth  as 
representing  under  the  happiest  light  the  genuine  Norwegian 
character ;  its  warmth  of  kindness,  and  generous  hospitality. 
Drontheim  is  built  wholly  of  wood,  and  has  in  consequence  been 
seven  times  burnt  to  the  ground ;  yet  the  houses  are  handsome, 
and  ornamented  with  taste.  There  is  a  spacious  palace,  built 
wholly  of  this  material,  and  partaking  its  imperfection.  It  also 
contains  the  remains  of  a  cathedral,  the  largest  edifice  in  the 
country,  and  to  which  the  whole  population  of  the  north  came 
once  in  pilgrimage.  The  environs  are  very  beautiful,  with 
numerous  country-seats,  and  lofty  snow-crowned  hills  in  the 
distance. 

The  little  town  of  Hammerfest,  on  the  island  of  Qualoe,  is 
the  most  northerly  settlement  in  Europe,  and  perhaps  in  the 
world,  inhabited  solely  by  a  civilized  people.  There  are  several 
mercantile  houses  here  connected  with  the  fisheries ;  and  some 
trade  is  carried  on  with  Bergen,  and  also  with  the  Russians  from 
Archangel. 


SWEDEN. 

Sweden,  though  enclosed  by  high  mountains  on  the  north  and 
west,  is  in  general  a  flat  country,  much  diversified  by  lakes  and 
rivers.  A  great  part  of  it  is  covered  with  thick  forests,  which 
are  interspersed  in  the  middle  and  southern  districts  with  nume- 
rous small,  but  well-cultivated  farms. 

The  mountains  consist  chiefly  of  the  dark  and  lofty  chain  of 
the  Dofrafields,  which  were  for  ages  a  barrier  between  the  two 

2  b  *  317 


264  EUROPE. 

separate  and  formerly  hostile  states  of  Sweden  and  Norway,  but 
ai-e  now  included  within  the  united  kingdom.  Some  of  these 
mountains  attain  the  height  of  8000  feet. 

The  rivers  are  numerous,  Sweden  being  a  country  profusely 
watered ;  but,  as  they  rise  in  the  Dofrafield  mountains,  and  tra- 
verse the  divided  breadth  of  the  peninsula,  they  seldom  attain  any 
material  length  of  course.  The  largest  is  the  Dahl,  which  falls 
into  the  sea  at  Gefle,  after  a  course  of  300  miles.  The  most  im- 
portant as  to  navigation,  are  those  which  form  the  outlet  to  the 
lakes,  particularly  the  Gotha,  reaching  from  the  lake  Wener  to 
the  Baltic  near  Gottenburg. 

The  Wener  is  the  largest  of  the  Swedish  lakes ;  it  is  a  fine 
sheet  of  water,  upwards  of  80  miles  long,  and  is,  by  means  of  its 
outlets,  the  Gotha  river  and  the  canal  of  Trolhatta,  connected 
with  the  sea  at  Gottenburg.  The  Wetter,  though  nearly  equal 
in  length,  covers  not  nearly  so  great  an  extent  of  ground.  Lake 
Malar  is  properly  a  narrow  bay,  running  60  miles  into  the  inte- 
rior from  Stockholm.  Small  lakes,  enclosed  between  hills,  are 
of  frequent  occurrence,  both  in  Norway  and  Sweden.  The  prin- 
cipal islands  belonging  to  this  kingdom  are  Gothland,  Oland,  and 
Bornholm,  in  the  Baltic  Sea,  and  St.  Bartholomew  in  the  West 
Indies. 

In  this  country  the  people  are  divided  into  four  distinct  classes, 
the  nobility,  the  clergy,  the  citizens  or  burghers,  and  the  peasants. 
The  last  mentioned  class,  though  represented  in  the  Diet,  or  na- 
tional legislature,  do  not  occupy  the  position  which  such  a  privi- 
lege would  seem  to  indicate. 

Although  Sweden  on  various  occasions,  particularly  in  the 
reign  of  Gustavus  Adolphus  and  Charles  XII.,  exercised  great 
influence  upon  the  affairs  of  Europe,  its  political  importance,  from 
the  remoteness  of  its  position,  the  scantiness  of  its  population, 
and  its  general  poverty,  cannot  be  rated  very  high  at  the  present 
day,  and  its  military  and  naval  power  can  hardly  ever  be  very 
formidable  to  the  great  European  states. 

In  science  the  Swedes,  considering  their  circumstances  and 
situation,  have  made  a  very  distinguished  figure.  They  have 
cultivated,  with  peculiar  ardour,  botany  and  mineralogy ;  and 
have  also  made  large  contributions  to  chemistry,  which  is  still 
ably  pursued  by  several  distinguished  individuals.  From  the 
limited  sphere  of  the  Swedish  language,  few  works  of  science 
are  written  in  it,  or  translated  into  it :  hence  the  learned  men  of 
Sweden  are  particularly  well  versed  in  the  languages  of  foreign 
nations. 

Stockholm,  the  capital,  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  lake 
Malar  with  an  inlet  of  the  Baltic.     It  stands  upon  seven  small 


SWEDEN. 


Stockholm,  the  Capital  of  the  Kingdom  of  Sweden  and  Norway. 


View  of  the  Cathedral  of  Upsal,  and  part  of  the  city. 


Copper  Mine  of  Fahlun. 

The  Mine  of  Fahlun,  viewed  from  the  top,  looks  like  the  crater  of  an  immense  volcano.  It 
has  been  worked  upwards  of  a  thousand  years,  and  yields  a  million  and  a  half  pounds  of  cop- 
per annually ;  about  one-fourth  only  of  what  was  produced  two  hundred  years  ago. 

319 


EUROPE. 


Interior  of  one  of  the  Iron  Mines  of  Persberg 


The  Persberg  Mines  are  thirteen  in  number ;  they  are  dug  into  a  mountain  that  is  entirely 
composed  of  veins  and  beds  of  iron  ore.  A  great  number  of  men  and  horses  are  employed 
here.    The  iron  obtained  from  these  mines  is  laige  in  amount,  and  excellent  in  quality. 


LAPLAND.  265 

rocKy  islands,  besides  two  peninsulas,  and  is  built  upon  piles. 
The  central  island  is  bordered  by  a  stately  row  of  buildings,  the 
residences  of  the  principal  merchants.  It  contains  the  palace 
and  other  public  buildings ;  but  the  houses  being  high,  and  the 
streets  narrow,  its  appearance  is  somewhat  gloomy.  At  a  short 
distance  from  the  royal  palace  stands  a  fine  statue  of  Gustavus 
III.,  in  bronze,  on  a  pedestal  of  polished  porphyry.  The  city 
has  likewise  an  arsenal,  a  mint,  an  exchange,  and  two  theatres. 
The  harbour  is  deep  and  capacious,  though  difficult  of  access:  a 
thousand  sail  of  shipping  may  lie  here  in  safety,  and  the  largest 
vessels  can  approach  close  to  the  quay.     Population,  78,000. 

Upsal,  formerly  the  great  metropolis  of  Sweden,  is  situated  on 
an  extensive  plain,  upon  the  small  river  Fyrisa.  In  the  centre 
of  the  town  is  a  square,  from  which  the  streets  extend  in  straight 
lines.  This  town  is  famous  for  its  beautiful  cathedral,  and  for 
its  university,  which  has  a  library  of  40,000  volumes.  Popula- 
tion, 5000. 

Gottenburg,  near  the  mouth  of  the  river  Gotha,  has  a  circum- 
ference of  three  miles.  It  is  regularly  fortified,  and  in  the  upper 
part  of  the  town  the  streets  rise  above  each  other  like  an  amphi- 
theatre. Some  of  the  modern  buildings  are  of  brick,  but  the 
greater  number  are  of  wood,  and  painted  red.  The  harbour  is 
spacious,  and  the  commerce  considerable.     Population,  26,000. 

Carlscrona,  on  the  bay  of  the  Baltic,  is  the  station  of  the 
Swedish  navy,  and  has  a  harbour  which  is  defended  at  its  en- 
trance by  two  strong  forts.  It  is  celebrated  for  its  docks,  which 
are  separated  from  the  town  by  a  high  wall,  and  one  of  which  is 
cut  out  of  the  solid  rock.     Population,  12,000. 

Malmoe,  exactly  opposite  Copenhagen,  contains  about  5000 
inhabitants,  and  possesses  some  commerce,  though  the  harbour 
is  bad.  Fahlun,  150  miles  north-west  from  Stockholm,  is 
remarkable  for  its  extensive  copper-mines.  The  number  of 
forges  here  give  the  town  a  very  sombre  appearance.  Popula- 
tion, 5000.  Gefle,  on  the  Gulf  of  Bothnia,  is  a  well-built  town, 
with  some  foreign  commerce.     Population,  10,000. 


LAPLAND. 

Lapland  is  a  cold  and  desolate  region  lying  to  the  north  of 
the  Arctic  Circle.  It  belongs  nominally  to  Sweden  and  Russia, 
but  such  are  the  sterility  of  the  soil  and  the  poverty  of  the  peo- 
ple, that  they  are  left  to  themselves,  and  are  not  under  the  cog- 
nizance of  any  general  government. 

This  country  is  mostly  rough  and  mountainous ;  but  in  some 
districts    there  are  extensive  plains   and  morasses.       Through 

23  321 


260  EUROPE. 

these  roll  the  Lulea,  Kalix,  Tc-rnea,  Urnea,  and  other  rivers, 
which,  though  of  considerable  length  of  course,  are  not  naviga- 
ble to  any  extent. 

The  Laplanders  are  of  short  stature,  being  generally  less  than 
five  feet  in  height,  of  brown  complexion,  with  black  hair,  pointed 
chin,  and  eyes  rendered  weak  by  exposure  to  the  smoke  and 
snow.  They  are  a  simple,  harmless  people,  greatly  attached  to 
their  native  country,  and  are  never  known  to  leave  it.  War 'is 
their  aversion,  and  no  instance  has  ever  occurred  of  any  of  them 
becoming  soldiers. 

In  summer  they  live  in  tents ;  and  in  winter  in  low  rude  huts, 
formed  of  stones  and  earth,  and  covered  with  turf.  The  floor 
is  spread  with  rein-deer  skins,  having  the  hair  upwards,  and 
which  thus  serve  for  either  lying  or  sitting ;  their  tents  and  huts 
being  too  low  to  stand  in.  A  fire  is  made  in  the  middle,  and 
there  is  a  hole  at  the  top,  to  which  the  smoke  must  find  its  way ; 
but  this  it  does  not  effect  till  it  has  thickly  impregnated  the  whole 
space  with  its  fumes ;  which,  however,  are  valued  as  affording  a 
protection  in  winter  against  the  cold,  and  in  summer  against  the 
swarms  of  musquitoes,  with  which,  during  a  period  of  short  and 
extreme  heat,  the  air  is  infested. 

The  Laplanders  travel  from  place  to  place,  and  seldom  live  in 
towns.  They  move  their  families,  usually  at  the  beginning  of 
winter  and  summer,  in  sledges  made  in  the  form  of  a  boat,  and 
drawn  by  rein-deer.  These  swift-footed  animals  form  their  riches ; 
the  flesh  and  milk  comprise  their  food,  and  the  skins  their  furni- 
ture and  clothing.  The  herds  of  rein-deer  vary  from  300  to 
upwards  of  1000  in  number,  according  to  the  wealth  of  the  pos- 
sessor. All  day  they  wander  over  the  hills,  and  in  the  evening 
are  driven  into  an  enclosed  space,  where  they  are  milked.  Each 
yields  only  about  a  tea-cupful  of  milk ;  but  rich,  aromatic,  and 
of  exquisite  taste. 

The  dress  of  these  people  is  carefully  contrived  for  the  pur- 
poses of  warmth.  The  under  part,  or  shirt,  is  composed  of 
sheep's  skin,  with  the  wool  inwards ;  while  the  exterior  coat  is 
formed  by  the  skin  of  the  rein-deer,  or  some  other  animal,  having 
the  fur  outwards.  They  add  fur  gloves,  and  a  woollen  pointed 
red  cap. 

The  few  villages  found  in  Lapland  are  very  small,  seldom 
containing  more  than  100  or  200  inhabitants;  and  the  whole 
nation,  though  occupying  a  country  nearly  equal  in  extent  to 
France,  is  supposed  not  to  exceed  30,000  inhabitants.  The 
Laplanders  have  been  nearly  all  converted  to  Christianity,  and 
are  attentive  to  its  duties, coming  often  from  great  distances  to 
attend  divine   service,  though  the  instructions  are  conveyed  to 


RUSSIAN    EMPIRE.  2G7 

them  only  through  the  broken  medium  of  an  interpreter.  They 
observe  the  sabbath  very  strictly,  and  never  use  profane  language. 
Among  them  great  crimes  are  unknown,  a  murder  not  having 
been  committed  in  twenty  years. 

The  people  of  this  country  do  not  show  that  open  hospitality 
and  warmth  of  heart  for  which  rude  nations  are  so  often  cele- 
brated. They  are  cold,  shy,  mistrustful,  and  difficult  to  treat 
with,  at  least  unless  tobacco  or  brandy  be  brought  in  as  a  medi- 
ator. They  were  formerly  very  superstitious ;  and  the  Lapland 
witches  were  famous  for  their  empire  over  the  winds,  which  they 
pretended  to  enclose  in  bags,  and  sold  to  the  mariner.  The 
magic  drum  and  the  enchanted  chain  are  still  in  occasional  use. 


RUSSIAN   EMPIRE. 

The  Russian  Empire  is  the  largest  in  the  world.  It  com- 
prises extensive  regions  in  both  hemispheres,  is  twice  the  size  of 
Europe,  and  is  supposed  to  exceed  greatly  the  most  extensive 
empires  of  antiquity.  It  reaches  more  than  half-way  round  the 
globe,  and  embraces  upwards  of  one-seventh  part  of  the  land 
surface  of  the  earth.  Russia  in  Europe,  Russia  in  Asia,  and  the 
Russian  possessions  in  North  America,  are  its  grand  divisions. 
Area  in  square  miles,  7,555,000.    Population  about  60,000,000. 

From  the  immense  extent  of  this  empire,  and  its  geographical 
position  on  the  globe,  a  great  part  of  it  is  condemned  to  almost 
constant  frost  and  snow,  and  vast  tracts  are  barren  and  sterile ; 
yet  there  are  extensive  territories  that  are  fruitful  and  productive, 
and  under  the  influence  of  free  and  liberal  institutions,  would 
become  among  the  most  favoured  regions  in  the  world. 

■  •  ■  n  '     f 

But  few  nations,  either  of  ancient  or  modern  times,  can  furnish 
an  instance  of  such  rapid  increase  in  area  and  population,  as 
Russia :  less  than  400  years  ago  it  contained  only  the  one- 
twentieth  part  of  its  extent  at  this  time ;  and  100  years  ago  the 
inhabitants  amounted  to  only  one-fourth  of  their  present  number. 
The  annexation  of  Finland,  nearly  the  whole  of  Poland,  and  vari- 
ous districts  of  Turkey  and  Persia,  with  its  possessions  in  North 
America,  have,  within  less  than  a  century,  added  greatly  to  the 
territories  of  this  empire. 

The  inhabitants  consist  of  a  greater  variety  of  different  nations 
than  is  to  be  found  under  any  other  government  in  the  world. 
The  chief  races  in  European  Russia  are  Russians,  Poles,  Finns, 
Tartars,  Turks,  Cossacks,  &c.  In  Asia,  besides  the  various 
barbarous  and  savage  tribes  that  inhabit  Siberia,  there  are  the 

323 


268  EUROPE. 

Tartars,  Circassians,  Georgians,  Persians,  and  Armenians,  that 
people  the  provinces  bordering  on  the  Caspian  Sea ;  with  the 
Esquimaux  and  Indian  tribes  of  the  American  possessions. 

The  government  of  this  empire  is  an  absolute  monarchy.  The 
emperor  is  the  head  of  church  and  state,  and  is  styled  the  auto- 
crat of  all  the  Russias :  all  power  emanates  from  him,  and  he  is 
supposed  to  derive  his  authority  from  God  alone.  There  is  also 
a  body  styled  the  Council  of  the  Empire,  a  ministry,  and  a  senate, 
the  last  of  which  is  a  collection  of  individuals  nominated  by  the 
monarch,  and  serves  but  little  other  purpose  than  that  of  promul- 
gating his  decrees  or  ukases. 

The  established  religion  is  that  of  the  Greek  Church,  but  all 
others  are  tolerated  ;  and  there  are  to  be  found  in  Russia,  Roman 
Catholics,  Protestants,  Mahomedans,  Jews  and  Pagans.  The 
ecclesiastical  ceremonies  of  the  Russians  are  exceedingly  pomp- 
ous and  splendid,  and  the  feast  of  Easter  is  celebrated  with 
brilliant  magnificence.  They  have  a  great  veneration  for  the 
pictures  with  which  their  churches  are  furnished,  and  the  Crea- 
tor is  too  generally  lost  sight  of  in  the  worship  of  the  represent- 
ation of  his  creatures.  The  establishment  of  the  Russian  church 
is  very  cumbrous,  there  being  between  30  and  40  bishops  and 
archbishops,  a  very  large  body  of  clergy,  and  a  great  number 
of  monasteries.  The  affairs  of  the  church  are  regulated  by  a 
tribunal  called  the  Holy  Synod,  but  its  decrees  are  issued  in  the 
name  of  the  emperor. 

The  military  force  of  this  empire  is  the  largest  in  Europe,  and 
is  a  source  of  anxiety  to  the  neighbouring  states.  The  regular 
army  amounts  to  700,000  men,  said  to  be  well  trained  and  orga- 
nized. The  real  strength  of  the  Russian  army  has  always  con- 
sisted, not  in  its  numbers,  but  in  the  passive  and  iron  valour  of 
its  infantry,  and  the  rapid  and  skilful  movements  of  its  irregular 
cavalry — the  Cossacks,  the  Baschkirs,  and  other  Asiatic  nomades. 
Its  field  artillery  also  has  commanded  the  admiration  of  the  best 
tacticians. 

The  Russian  navy  on  the  Baltic  and  Black  seas,  consists  of 
about  50  ships  of  the  line,  25  frigates,  8  steam-ships,  and  a 
number  of  smaller  vessels,  manned  by  upwards  of  40,000  men. 
The  present  emperor  has  shown  a  strong  predeliction  in  favour 
of  the  navy,  which  has  of  late  years  rapidly  improved  in  the 
effective  number  of  ships  and  men,  and  in  its  general  organiza- 
tion. 

The  commerce  is  extensive  and  annually  increasing,  having 
doubled  in  amount  in  about  25  years.  The  exports  are  tallow, 
hemp,  sail-cloth,  iron,  timber,  and  grain.  The  inland  trade  is 
very  considerable,  and  is  much  facilitated  by  navigable  rivers, 

324 


RUSSIAN    EMPIRE.  2G9 

canals,  and  lakes  ;  and  by  the  snow  in  winter,  over  which  sleighs 
travel  with  great  rapidity.  Great  fairs  are  held  in  different 
places,  which  attract  vast  crowds  of  merchants  and  traders  from 
all  parts. 

The  seal  and  sturgeon  fisheries  of  the  river  Volga,  and  of  the 
Caspian  and  Black  Seas,  are  extensive  and  very  productive. 
Upwards  of  10,000  fishing  boats  are  employed  on  the  Volga 
alone :  the  sturgeon  is  the  principal  fish  caught,  from  which  isin- 
glass, caviare  and  oil  are  made.  Salted  and  smoked  mackerel 
form  an  important  article  of  the  commerce  of  the  Crimea.  Large 
quantities  of  fish  are  conveyed  from  the  fisheries  in  winter  in  a 
frozen  state  to  the  great  cities.  A  steam  navigation  company 
has  been  formed  for  the  purpose  of  introducing  steam  vessels 
upon  the  Caspian  Sea,  and  the  Volga  and  other  rivers ;  and  the 
Russian  company  is  to  extend  the  navigation  upon  the  Baltic  and 
Black  Seas. 

The  manufactures  of  Russia  have  been  until  lately  altogether 
rude  and  coarse,  consisting  of  sail-cloth,  duck  sheeting,  cordage, 
&c. ;  but  within  the  last  fifteen  or  twenty  years,  the  government 
has  by  high  rewards  allured  foreign  manufacturers,  and  has 
founded  establishments  wherein  is  substituted  free  and  well-paid 
in  place  of  slave  labour.  Woollen,  cotton,  and  silk  goods,  of 
various  kinds,  are  manufactured  in  considerable  quantities ;  also, 
glass,  porcelain,  paper,  and  jewelry.  Coarse  woollens  for  family 
use  are  made  to  a  great  extent. 

The  agriculture  of  Russia  is  in  a  backward  state,  yet  in  con- 
sequence of  the  numbers  employed  in  tilling  the  ground,  the  pro- 
duce is  very  abundant.  Rye,  oats,  and  barley,  are  raised  in  the 
northern  districts,  and  excellent  wheat  in  the  south.  Flax  and 
hemp  are  staple  productions  :  the  sugar-beet  is  cultivated  to  some 
extent ;  and  the  raising  of  cattle,  horses,  sheep,  bees,  and  silk- 
worms, occupy  numbers  of  the  inhabitants.  Poland  rears  many 
cattle,  and  raises  much  grain ;  but  the  progress  of  agriculture  in 
that  country  has  been  greatly  retarded  by  Russian  tyranny. 

Although  the  literature  of  Russia  must  be  considered  in  its 
infancy,  yet  the  works  of  some  of  her  learned  men  have  of  late 
drawn  attention  even  in  foreign  countries.  A  number  of  peri- 
odical publications  issue  from  the  press  in  St.  Petersburg  and 
Moscow.  A  reading  public  has  been  gradually  formed,  and  new 
works  are  continually  printed ;  but  the  liberty  of  the  press  is 
grievously  fettered  by  a  corrupt  and  despotic  censorship. 

Though  ignorance  is  general  in  Russia,  yet  much  has  been 
done  to  spread  the  means  of  education,  and  steps  have  been  taken 
to  diffuse  knowledge  over  the  empire.  Every  parish,  or  two 
parishes  united,  is  to  have  a  school  as  fast  as  it  is  possible  to 

23*  2C  325 


270  EUROPE. 

provide  the  requisite  number  of  qualified  teachers.  There  are 
besides  upwards  of  500  general  establishments,  and  more  than 
50  gymnasia,  where  students  are  prepared  for  the  universities, 
of  which  there  are  six,  viz.  one  at  St.  Petersburg,  Moscow,  Kiev, 
Kazan,  Dorpat,  and  Charkov.  There  are  several  schools  for  the 
education  of  instructers,  and  upwards  of  150  schools  attended  by 
students  in  theology.  The  Jews  have  a  celebrated  national  insti- 
tution, and  there  are  besides,  medical,  mineral,  mining,  marine, 
and  other  schools. 

The  great  body  of  the  Russian  nation  is  divided  into  the  dis- 
tinct classes  of  nobles  and  slaves.  The  former  include  in  their 
numbers  many  well-informed,  intelligent,  and  liberal  individuals. 
Their  cultivation,  both  as  to  manner  and  intellect,  is  principally 
derived  from  France,  whose  language  is  almost  exclusively  spoken 
at  court,  and  whose  writers  alone  are  generally  read. 

The  fortunes  of  the  nobility  are  in  some  cases  truly  enormous, 
especially  when  compared  with  the  cheapness  of  provisions.  The 
head  of  the  Scheremetov  family,  reckoned  the  richest,  is  said  to 
have  125,000  slaves,  estimated  at  150  rubles  each.  The  nobles 
generally  spend  these  estates  in  profuse  and  ostentatious  hospi- 
tality, combining,  though  not  very  tastefully,  the  open  house  of 
the  feudal  baron,  with  the  elegance  and  splendour  of  Parisian 
luxury. 

The  slaves,  the  other  extreme  of  Russian  society,  form  still  the 
great  mass  of  the  people.  This  ill-fated  class  is  divested  of  every 
right,  political  and  personal,  scarcely  excepting  that  of  life.  The 
master  has  the  full  power  of  the  lash,  which  is  liberally  exercised, 
and  of  every  other  corporeal  punishment  which  does  not  produce 
death  in  twenty-four  hours.  There  is,  indeed,  a  law  by  which 
the  master  may,  in  that  case,  be  brought  to  justice  ;  and  there  are 
marshal's  courts,  to  which,  in  certain  cases,  the  slave  may  appeal ; 
but  these  means  of  redress  are  practically  very  precarious.  The 
slaves  frequently  agree  with  their  masters  to  pay  them  an  annual 
rent,  or  obrok,  on  condition  of  their  being  allowed  to  migrate  to 
the  towns,  and  to  carry  on  trades.  Many  of  them  have,  in  this 
way,  acquired  very  considerable  wealth,  and  have  been  enabled  to 
purchase  their  freedom. 

Many  of  the  amusements  in  Russia  are  those  of  the  children 
in  other  countries.  A  large  assembly  will  often  entertain  them- 
selves with  forfeits  and  other  similar  games.  In  the  cities,  ice 
mountains  form  a  favourite  recreation.  These  are  inclined  planes, 
high  and  steep,  covered  with  ice,  down  which  the  people  descend 
in  cars  or  on  skates,  and  with  the  greatest  velocity.  There  arc 
swings  used  of  various  sorts,  some  turning  in  a  perpendicular, 
and  others  in  a  horizontal  manner.     On  certain  festivals,  all 


RUSSIA    IN    EUROPE.  271 

these  are  placed  in  the  public  squares,  and  the  people  mingle  in 
the  amusements  with  much  animation,  and  without  distinction  of 
rank. 


RUSSIA  IN  EUROPE. 

Russia  is  the  most  extensive  region  in  Europe.  It  comprises 
more  than  one-half  of  the  area  of  that  division  of  the  continent, 
and  stretches  from  the  Baltic  Sea  to  the  Ural  mountains.  Its 
surface  is  generally  level,  its  chief  features  being  extensive  plains 
and  large  rivers,  with  numerous  lakes,  in  the  north-western 
quarter. 

It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Arctic  Ocean,  south  by  the 
Black  Sea  and  the  southern  part  of  Asiatic  Russia,  east  by  Sibe- 
ria, and  west  by  Sweden,  the  Gulf  of  Bothnia,  Prussia,  Austria, 
and  Turkey  ;  making  an  extent  of  about  1800  miles  from  north 
to  south,  and  1300  from  east  to  west.  The  area  is  estimated  to 
amount  to  1,755,000  square  miles,  with  about  50,000,000  of 
inhabitants. 

European  Russia  comprises  almost  30°  of  latitude,  and  pos- 
sesses great  diversity  of  climate.  The  White  Sea,  and  the  ocean 
which  washes  the  northern  coasts,  are  covered  with  ice  from 
September  to  June,  and  the  rivers  in  this  quarter  are  frozen  for 
a  still  longer  period.  In  the  morasses  and  lakes  the  frost  seldom 
disappears  at  all ;  and  the  heat  of  the  sun  does  not  penetrate 
more  than  a  few  inches  into  the  marshy  soil.  During  the  brief 
and  cheerless  summer,  the  atmosphere  is  loaded  with  fogs.  At 
St.  Petersburg  the  temperature  is  milder,  but  the  Neva  is  frozen 
from  November  till  May.  In  the  south  the  climate  is  delightful, 
and  vegetation  is  flourishing. 

The  surface  of  European  Russia  is  the  most  level  of  any  in 
Europe.  A  great  portion  in  the  south,  especially,  consists  of 
those  immense  levels  called  Steppes,  over  which  the  eye  may 
range  for  hundreds  of  miles  without  seeing  a  hill.  They  termi 
nate  at  the  long  chain  of  the  Urals,  which,  rising  like  a  wall, 
separates  them  from  the  equally  vast  plains  of  Siberia. 

The  Ural  Mountains  are  the  principal  elevation  of  this  region; 
they  are  scarcely  known,  but  are  said  to  be  well  wooded,  and 
rich  in  minerals  especially  on  the  Asiatic  side.  The  Olonetz 
Mountains,  in  the  north-west,  are  a  prolongation  of  the  Dofrafield 
range ;  there  are  also  the  Valdai  hills,  in  the  centre,  and  the 
mountains  of  the  Crimea,  in  the  south. 

The  Volga  is  the  largest  river  of  this  part  of  the  Russian 
dominions,  and  also  of  Europe.  Rising  not  far  from  the  Baltic 
Sea,  it  traverses  the  central  and  south-east  provinces  of  the  em- 


272  EUROPE. 

pire,  and  after  forming  part  of  the  boundary  between  Europe  and 
Asia,  it  flows  by  a  number  of  mouths  into  the  Caspian  Sea,  below 
Astrachan.  This  great  stream  is  navigable  through  the  whole  of 
its  course  of  2000  miles,  and  is  connected  with  the  Gulf  of  Fin- 
land by  a  navigable  canal.  The  Don,  Dnieper,  Dniester,  &c. 
empty  into  the  Black,  and  the  Niemen  and  Duna  into  the  Baltic 
Sea.  The  Dwina,  Mesene,  and  Onega,  flow  northward  into  the 
White  Sea. 

The  chief  lakes  of  Russia  are  those  of  Ladoga  and  Onega  : 
they  are  each  more  than  100  miles  in  length,  and  form  a  sort  of 
continuation  of  the  Gulf  of  Finland.  North  and  west  of  these 
are  a  multitude  of  lakes  of  various  forms  and  dimensions,  of 
which  the  Kalla  and  Purus  appear  to  be  the  principal.  South  of 
the  Gulf  of  Finland  are  the  lakes  of  Piepus  and  Ilmen,  of  which 
the  first  is  a  considerable  sheet  of  water.  The  cold  and  dreary 
islands  of  Nova  Zembla  and  Spitsbergen  belong  to  Russia :  they 
lie  to  the  northward  of  the  Arctic  Circle,  and  are  not  inhabited. 
The  islands  of  Aland,  Dago,  and  Oesel,  in  the  Baltic  Sea,  also 
form  a  part  of  the  empire. 

The  canal  navigation  of  Russia,  so  far  as  it  has  hitherto  been 
carried,  has  been  exclusively  the  work  of  government.  The 
canal  of  Ladoga  joins  the  lake  of  that  name  with  the  Neva. 
The  canal  of  Vishnei  Vosholk  connects  the  Caspian  Sea  at  Astra- 
chan, with  the  Baltic  at  St.  Petersburg.  There  are  eight  or  ten 
other  canals  completed,  or  in  a  state  of  forwardness.  These 
works  have  all  been  executed  within  the  last  100  years. 

European  Russia  is  divided  into  41  governments  and  two  pro- 
vinces, exclusive  of  the  territory  of  the  Cossacks  of  the  Don, 
which  forms  a  sort  of  military  republic,  the  grand  duchy  of  Fin- 
land, which  has  a  distinct  administration,  and  the  kingdom  of 
Poland. 

St.  Petersburg,  the  metropolis  of  the  Russian  empire,  is  situated 
at  the  head  of  the  Gulf  of  Finland,  and  is  built  partly  upon  the 
mainland,  and  partly  upon  some  small  islands  near  the  mouth  of 
the  river  Neva.  One  of  its  entrances  is  adorned  with  a  magnifi- 
cent triumphal  arch.  The  foundation  of  the  city  is  extremely 
marshy,  and  so  low  as  to  subject  it  to  frequent  inundations  from 
the  waters  of  the  gulf.  It  was  founded  in  1703,  by  Peter  the 
Great,  the  spot  being  then  occupied  only  by  a  few  fishermen's 
huts.  The  streets  of  the  city  are  mostly  intersected  by  spacious 
canals,  embanked  by  parapets  of  hewn  stone,  and  spanned  at  con- 
venient distances  by  arched  bridges  of  magnificent  construction. 
The  quays  along  the  Neva  are  remarkably  magnificent.  The 
houses  are  usually  of  brick,  covered  with  stucco,  and  present  a 
white  and  dazzling  appearance  at  a  distance.     The  views  upon 


RUSSIA. 


Cathedral,  St.  Petersburg. 

The  Cathedral  church  is  one  of  the  finest  buildings  in  St.  Petersburg.  It  was  finished  in 
1815,  fifteen  years  after  its  commencement,  and  at  an  expense  of  fifteen  million  rubles.  The 
design  was  the  work  of  a  Russian  slave. 


View  of  part  of  Moscow. 


Russian  Village. 
The  dwellings  of  the  serfs  in  Russia  are  rudely  built  of  the  trunks  of  trees ;  and  resemble 
piles  of  timber  rather  than  human  habitations. 

2  C  *  329 


EUROPE. 


The  Kremlin,  Moscow. 

The  Kremlin  was  a  kind  of  town  within  itself,  and  contained  palaces,  churches,  chapels, 
government  offices.  &c.  It  was  much  injured  at  the  time  of  the  great  fire  in  1812,  but  has 
been  since  nearly  all  rebuilt. 


View  of  ruined  Palaces  in  Moscow,  after  trie  great  fire  of  1812. 


Church  of  St.  Basil,  Moscow. 

The  Church  of  St.  Basil  is  built  in  the  Tartar  style.    Its  gilded  cupolas,  and  crosses  orna- 

mentod  according  to  the  individual  tnsle  of  those  pious  persons  who  bestow  their  wealth  for 

that  purpose,  impart  to  the  edifice  a  brilliant  and  fantastic  variety. 

330 


RUSSIA   IN  EUROPE.  273 

the  borders  of  the  Neva  are  of  an  extremely  grand  and  lively  de- 
scription. The  river  is  deep,  rapid,  and  as  transparent  as  crys- 
tal ;  and  its  banks  are  lined  on  each  side  with  a  continued  range 
of  noble  buildings.  During  the  winter,  no  part  of  the  city  is 
more  crowded  than  the  Neva.  Enclosed  places  are  allotted  to  the 
skaters ;  and  sledge-races  and  various  other  amusements  are  ge- 
nerally practised.     Population  of  St.  Petersburg,  450,000. 

Moscow,  the  former  capital,  stands  on  the  river  Moskva,  487 
miles  south-east  of  St.  Petersburg.  Before  the  year  1812,  it  was 
one  of  the  largest  cities  in  Europe,  being  nearly  20  miles  in  cir- 
cumference. The  Kremlin  is  a  superb  structure,  or  rather  a  mot- 
ley mass  of  gaudy  buildings,  comprehending  the  imperial  palace 
and  chapel,  the  public  offices,  the  cathedral  and  other  churches, 
and  the  arsenal.  At  the  French  invasion  the  city  was  set  on  fire, 
and  two-thirds  of  it  destroyed.  It  is  now  mostly  rebuilt.  The 
streets  are,  in  general,  broad,  and  some  of  them  are  paved  ; 
others,  particularly  those  in  the  suburbs,  are  floored  with  trunks 
of  trees,  or  boarded  with  planks.  One  of  the  curiosities  of  this 
place  is  the  great  bell,  which  is  said  to  be  the  largest  in  the  world. 
Population  of  Moscow,  250,000. 

Kazan  is  reckoned  the  third  city  in  the  empire,  having  47,000 
inhabitants,  of  whom  12,000,  the  most  industrious,  are  Tartars. 
The  city  being  built  of  wood,  and  its  streets  paved  with  the  same 
material,  was  reduced  to  ashes  in  1815  by  a  great  conflagration, 
which  consumed  the  cathedral  and  palace,  leaving  only  the  hand- 
some church  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul.  In  the  rebuilding  of  it, 
this  exclusive  use  of  wood  has  been  discouraged. 

Cronstadt,  on  an  island  22  miles  west  of  St.  Petersburg,  is  a 
well-fortified  place,  and  the  principal  station  of  the  Russian  navy. 
Vessels  bound  for  St.  Petersburg  generally  discharge  their  cargoes 
here.  Population,  40,000.  Kiev,  on  the  Dnieper,  contains  an 
university,  and  some  celebrated  catacombs.     Population  26,000. 

Riga,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Duna,  is  a  place  of  much  com- 
merce. It  chiefly  exports  corn,  hemp,  flax,  iron,  timber,  leather, 
and  tallow.  It  has  a  garrison,  and  a  public  library  with  12,000 
volumes.  Here  is  a  floating  bridge  over  the  Duna,  2600  feet  in 
length.  Population,  36,000.  Odessa,  the  emporium  of  the  Rus- 
sian commerce  on  the  Black  Sea,  is  situated  between  the  mouths 
of  the  Dniester  and  Dnieper.  It  contains  a  fine  cathedral,  a 
theatre,  and  several  churches.  Wheat  is  the  chief  article  of  ex- 
portation. Population,  35,000.  Wilna  has  an  extensive  com- 
merce, and  is  the  principal  winter  residence  of  the  nobility  in  that 
quarter  of  the  empire.  Population,  30,000.  Simpheropol  is  the 
chief  town  of  the  Crimea,  and  has  a  motley  population  of*  20,000. 

331 


RUSSIA. 


Great  Bell  of  Moscow. 


Patriarch,  or  Head  of  the  Russian  Church. 


The  Great  Bell  of  Moscow,  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world,  is  &4  feet  in  circumference,  19 
feet  high,  and  weighs  220  tons.  In  consequence  of  the  timber  to  which  it  was  suspended 
being  consumed  by  fire,  it  fell  to  the  ground,  and  had  a  large  piece  broken  out  of  the  edge. 
The  metal  of  which  it  is  formed  is  estimated  to  be  worth  350,000  dollars. 


^ 


Mount  Aden  Dagh,  in  the  Crimea,  Southern  Russia. 


Palace  of  the  Tartar  Khans,  or  former  Sovereigns  of  the  Crimea. 


332 


EUROPE. 


Odessa,  on  the  Black  Sea,  Southern  Russia. 

Odessa  was  founded  in  the  year  1796,  by  the  Empress  Catherine,  on  the  site  of  a  small  Tartar 
village,  and  soon  rose  to  be  the  most  important  town  in  the  Southern  part  of  European  Russia 
The  inhabitants  are  chiefly  engaged  in  commerce ;  they  are  a  very  mixed  race,  and,  besides 
Russians,  comprise  Germans,  French,  Italians,  Poles,  Greeks,  Americans,  &c. 


New  Xcjierkask,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Don. 

New  Tcherkask  has  been  the  capital  of  the  Cossacks  of  the  Don  since  1814:  in  that  year, 
the  government  offices,  courts  of  justice,  &c,  were  removed  from  Old  Tcherkask.  The  st/eet3 
of  the  new  town  are  wide  and  straight ;  the  houses,  as  in  most  Russian  towns,  are  built  chiefly 
of  wood. 


Palace  of  the  Russian  Viceroy,  Warsaw. 


Palace  of  the  Minuter  of  Finance,  Warsaw. 


333 


274  EUROPE. 

Moghilev,  on  the  Dnieper,  has  a  very  considerable  commerce  with 
Riga  and  Odessa.     Population,  21,000. 

Cherson,  on  the  Dnieper  river,  was  once  a  flourishing  place, 
but  has  greatly  declined.  Population,  14,000.  Nishnei  Novo- 
gorod  was  at  first  intended  by  Peter  the  Great  for  his  capital.  It 
has  a  celebrated  fair,  and  is  one  of  the  most  commercial  towns  in 
Russia.  Population,  14,000.  Novogorod,  on  Lake  Ilmen,  con- 
tained in  the  days  of  its  prosperity  400,000  inhabitants.  It  has 
a  fortress,  a  curious  cathedral,  and  churches  ornamented  with  gilt 
spires;  but  its  present  population  does  not  exceed  10,000.  Ta- 
ganrog, at  the  head  of  the  sea  of  Azov,  formerly  contained  70,000 
inhabitants.     Its  present  population  is  only  10,000. 

Archangel,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Dwina,  a  river  which  flows 
into  the  White  Sea,  was  formerly  the  only  port  by  which  Russia 
communicated  with  the  rest  of  Europe.  It  has  an  extensive 
dock,  but  the  harbour  is  accessible  only  from  July  to  September. 
Population,  18,000. 


POLAND. 

Poland  is  an  extensive  country,  which  was  for  more  than  eight 
hundred  years  the  seat  of  an  independent  and  powerful  monarchy. 
Though  of  late  expunged  from  the  list  of  nations,  it  still  retains 
its  claim  to  be  considered  as  separate  and  distinct.  The  same 
physical  aspect  characterises  it ;  and  the  people,  in  their  habits, 
their  language,  and  all  their  national  feelings,  are  still  Poles. 

When  independent  and  entire,  Poland  extended  from  the  Baltic 
Sea  to  Moldavia,  and  from  the  Wartha  river  to  the  Dnieper,  being 
about  700  miles  from  north  to  south,  and  680  from  east  to  west, 
with  an  area  of  284,000  square  miles  and  22  million  inhabitants. 
This  wide-spread  region  was  divided  into  Great  and  Little  Poland 
on  the  west,  Masovia  and  Podlachia  in  the  centre,  with  Volhynia, 
Podolia  and  the  Ukraine  towards  the  south  and  east,  and  Lithua- 
nia in  the  north-east.  The  inferior  divisions  were  31  Palatinates 
and  Starostys. 

This  country,  which  forms  a  portion  of  the  extensive  plain 
that  stretches  over  the  central  parts  of  Europe,  is  almost  every- 
where level,  and  in  many  places  marshy ;  extensive  sections  in 
the  south,  watered  by  the  Dnieper  and  Dniester  rivers,  resemble 
the  prairies  of  the  United  States,  over  which  numerous  herds  of 
wild  horses  and  cattle  roam  and  graze.  The  only  great  moun- 
tains are  the  Carpathians,  which  form  the  boundary  between  Po- 
land and  Hungary.  The  chief  rivers  of  Poland  are  the  Vistula, 
the  Bug,  the  Niemen,  the  Pregel,  the  Dwina,  the  Dnieper  and  the 

334 


POLAND.  275 

Dniester.  The  two  last  mentioned  flow  into  the  Black,  and  the 
others  into  the  Baltic  Sea. 

Poland  abounds  in  iron  to  some  extent ;  and  lead,  copper  and 
silver  are  also  found.  The  mines  of  Bochnia  and  Wieliczka,  now 
in  the  possession  of  Austria,  are  noted  for  the  vast  supply  of  salt 
they  furnish.  The  agriculture  of  this  country  is  not  conducted 
with  skill,  but  such  is  the  regularity  of  the  climate  and  the  ferti- 
lity of  the  soil,  that  the  annual  export  of  grain  is  computed  to 
average  16  million  bushels.  The  other  exports  consist  of  cattle, 
hemp,  flax,  timber,  woollen  cloth,  wax  and  honey.  Dantzick,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Vistula,  is  the  chief  emporium  of  the  commerce 
of  Poland ;  besides  which  the  trade  of  Riga,  Memel  and  Elbing 
is  very  considerable. 

Society  in  Poland  consists  of  the  nobility,  the  inhabitants  of  the 
cities  and  towns,  and  the  peasantry.  The  first  class,  composed 
of  the  posterity  of  the  ancient  defenders  of  the  soil,  to  which  were 
subsequently  added  those  who  completed  their  studies  at  the  Uni- 
versity of  Cracow,  or  who  acquired  distinction  in  literary  pursuits, 
are  more  numerous  than  in  any  other  country  in  Europe,  and 
have  always,  in  the  eye  of  the  public,  formed  the  people  of  Po- 
land. They  are  frank,  brave,  hospitable  and  gay.  They  have 
been  called  the  French  of  the  north,  and  are,  both  from  habit  and 
inclination,  attached  to  that  people. 

Their  resolution  in  entering  on  the  late  contest  with  the  most 
formidable  power  in  Europe,  and  the  gallantry  they  displayed  in 
the  attempt  to  regain  their  national  independence,  are  worthy  of 
comparison  with  the  most  applauded  deeds  of  ancient  heroism. 
The  Polish  constitution  does  not  acknowledge  the  usual  titles  of 
nobility.  Among  themselves  the  nobles  form  a  species  of  demo- 
cracy, the  poorest  being  equal  in  point  of  privileges  with  the  most 
opulent.  Some  of  the  nobility  own  large  estates  and  live  in  splen- 
dour, while  others  inhabit  little  villages  and  hamlets,  and  till  the 
soil  with  their  own  hands. 

The  peasantry  of  Poland  are  not  serfs,  as  has  been  usually  re- 
presented, but  free  labourers,  who  in  many  cases  have  acquired  a 
permanent  interest  in  the  soil.  Each  individual  of  this  class  is  a 
little  farmer,  cultivating  a  small  spot  with  his  own  hands,  and  pay- 
ing*  the  rent  to  the  proprietor  in  labour  or  in  kind.  Their  chil- 
dren are  instructed  in  the  same  schools  with  those  of  the  nobles, 
but  owing  to  the  limited  means  existing  in  Poland  for  general  edu- 
cation, the  great  mass  of  the  people  are  ignorant  and  illiterate.  In 
early  times,  prisoners  of  war  and  their  descendants  were  con- 
demned to  slavery  in  Poland,  but  in  the  year  1347,  this  class  was 
emancipated,  by  the  national  assembly,  held  at  the  City  of  Wislica. 

The  inhabitants  of  Poland  belong  chiefly  to  the  Roman  Catho- 


276  EUROPE. 

lie  church ;  but  all  sects,  Greeks,  Protestants,  Jews,  Mahomed- 
ans,  &c,  enjoy  perfect  freedom  of  opinion,  and  every  one  may 
worship  the  Supreme  Being  in  the  manner  they  think  proper ;  the 
same  privilege  existed  under  the  ancient  government  of  Poland, 
at  a  time  when  religious  toleration  was  but  little  understood  in 
other  European  countries. 

The  Jews  are  more  numerous  in  Poland  than  in  any  other  part 
of  Europe ;  they  constitute  the  men  of  business,  and  the  greater 
part  of  the  internal  commerce  and  current  money  of  the  country 
is  in  their  hands.  They  retain  their  ancient  national  dress  un- 
changed, and  are  at  once  recognized  as  a  distinct  people.  Per- 
sonal and  religious  liberty  was  granted  to  the  Jews  so  early  as 
the  year  1264,  and  at  a  time  when  they  were  oppressed  and  per- 
secuted in  every  other  Christian  State  in  Europe. 

Poland  has  produced  some  individuals  eminent  in  science,  among 
whom  we  distinguish  Copernicus,  the  discoverer  of  the  true  sys- 
tem of  the  world,  besides  many  authors  who  have  excelled  in  va- 
rious departments  of  learning.  Several  of  the  living  writers  are 
regarded  by  their  countrymen  as  vying  with  the  classic  names  of 
the  western  nations  of  Europe ;  and  Polish  literature  is  perhaps 
more  flourishing  at  the  present  time  than  at  any  former  period. 
Nowhere  has  national  history  been  more  diligently  cultivated  than 
in  Poland  ;  a  highly  poetical  spirit  animates  the  people,  and  is  dif- 
fused among  all  ranks.  The  peasant  sings  the  beauties  of  na- 
ture, while  the  noble  bards  celebrate  the  varied  fortune  and  glories 
of  their  country.  Their  favourite  national  song  is,  "  As  long  as 
we  exist,  Poland  can  never  be  lost." 

Of  the  sovereigns  of  Poland,  Casimir  the  Great  was  a  renowned 
prince,  and  from  the  protection  he  granted  to  the  peasantry,  ac- 
quired the  title  of  the  peasant's  king.  John  Sobieski  was  one  of 
the  most  distinguished  characters  of  the  17th  century;  he  was 
the  terror  of  the  Turks  and  other  enemies  of  his  country ;  with 
a  greatly  inferior  army  he  obliged  the  former  to  raise  the  siege  of 
Vienna,  took  from  them  the  sacred  banner  of  Mahomed,  and  also 
the  celebrated  iron  chain,  with  which  they  boasted  they  would 
measure  off"  Christendom.  Besides  these,  Kosciusko,  the  aid  of 
Washington  during  the  revolutionary  war,  and  Pulaski,  who  fell 
so  gallantly  at  Savannah,  are  dear  to  the  remembrance  of  every 
American. 

In  ancient  times,  Poland  comprised  a  considerable  portion  of 
that  vast  region  called  Sarmatia  by  the  Romans,  and  into  which 
their  arms  seem  never  to  have  penetrated.  The  early  inhabitants 
were  principally  shepherds,  whose  petty  and  loosely  arranged 
states  appear  to  have  been  united,  about  the  middle  of  the  sixth 
century,  into  a  dukedom,  under  Lech  or  Lechus,  who  laid  the 


POLAND.  277 

foundation  of  Gnesna,  the  most  ancient  town  of  Poland.  Cracus, 
who  built  Cracow  in  the  year  700,  and  Piastus  or  Piast,  a  peasant 
elevated  to  the  dukedom  in  830,  and  who  attained  the  extraordi- 
nary age  of  120  years,  are  among  the  best  known  of  the  early 
successors  of  the  first  duke. 

During  the  last  year  of  the  10th  century,  Boleslaus  assumed 
the  title  of  King  of  Poland,  and  in  the  year  1386,  the  grand 
duchy  of  Lithuania  was  incorporated  with  and  became  a  part 
of  the  monarchy.  Poland,  thus  enlarged  and  strengthened, 
formed  one  of  the  most  powerful  kingdoms  of  Europe :  its  martial 
character  gave  it  a  commanding  influence ;  and  the  exploits  of 
many  of  its  sovereigns  hold  a  conspicuous  place  in  military  his- 
tory. For  two  centuries  the  Polish  monarchy  was  the  main  bul- 
wark of  Christendom  against  the  alarming  progress  of  Turkish 
invasion. 

Previous  to  1347,  the  government  of  Poland  was  despotic;  in 
that  year  the  first  national  legislature  or  Diet  assembled,  and  the 
state  was  declared  to  be  a  limited  monarchy :  from  the  time  of 
the  union  of  Lithuania,  the  sovereign  was  elected  by  the  whole 
body  of  the  nobility  and  clergy,  and  all  the  acts  of  government 
were  promulgated  in  the  name  of  the  kingdom  and  republic  of 
Poland.  In  their  choice  of  a  monarch  the  Poles  did  not  always 
confine  themselves  to  a  native  of  the  country,  as  in  several  in- 
stances foreigners  were  invested  with  the  crown. 

The  last  elected  king,  Stanislaus  Augustus  Poniatowski,  as- 
cended the  throne  in  1764 :  in  his  reign  the  partition  of  Poland, 
justly  regarded  as  one  of  the  most  unwarrantable  measures  that 
disgrace  modern  times,  took  place.  This  deed  was  commenced  in 
1772,  by  the  sovereigns  of  Russia,  Prussia  and  Austria,  and  con- 
summated in  1795.  By  the  first  partition  about  one-third  of  Po- 
land was  dismembered,  and  important  changes  made  in  her  go- 
vernment. 

In  1791  the  king  and  the  nation  established  a  new  constitution. 
By  this  act,  known  as  the  constitution  of  the  3d  of  May,  the  throne 
was  declared  hereditary.  The  rights  and  privileges  of  all  orders 
in  the  republic  (the  monarch,  the  nobles,  the  citizens,  and  the  pea- 
sants) were  alike  equitably  consulted,  and  it  seemed  to  be  formed 
agreeably  to  the  universal  wish  of  the  people. 

The  new  constitution  did  not,  however,  accord  with  the  views 
of  the  neighbouring  despots  ;  its  liberal  spirit  was  considered  dan- 
gerous to  their  repose ;  and  to  effect  its  destruction,  a  new  con- 
quest and  partition  of  Poland  were  undertaken  in  1793. 

Such  multiplied  aggressions  at  length  roused  the  spirit  of  the 
Poles,  and  under  the  heroic  Kosciusko  they  made  the  most  gal- 
lant exertions  to  maintain  their  independence.     They  were  suc- 

24  2D  337 


278  EUROPE. 

cessful  for  a  time,  but  surrounded  on  every  side  by  greatly  supe- 
rior numbers,  their  gallantry  was  unavailing.  At  the  last  parti- 
tion, in  1795,  the  king  was  deposed,  and  all  that  was  left  of  Po- 
land was  divided  amongst  the  imperial  and  royal  despots. 

Exasperated  by  the  determined  resistance  of  the  Poles,  the  par- 
titioning powers  retaliated  upon  such  of  the  patriots  as  fell  into 
their  hands,  and  thousands  of  these  brave  men  were  banished  to 
the  wilds  of  Siberia  or  immured  in  horrid  dungeons ;  of  those 
who  escaped,  many  entered  into  the  French  service,  and,  in  1797 
and  1799,  were  formed  into  the  Polish  Legions  so  noted  for 
the  share  they  sustained  in  some  of  the  most  brilliant  victories 
gained  by  the  arms  of  France. 

The  services  rendered  by  these  gallant  bands,  and  the  desire 
of  improving  the  condition  of  a  suffering  people,  induced  the  Em- 
peror Napoleon  in  1807,  after  the  victory  of  Jena,  to  form  the 
Polish  provinces  of  Prussia  and  part  of  those  of  Austria,  into  the 
Grand  Duchy  of  Warsaw  ;  this  new  state,  which  numbered  seven 
million  inhabitants,  was  placed  under  the  protection  of  France. 

At  the  commencement  of  the  Russian  expedition  of  1812,  the 
design  of  restoring  Poland  to  an  independent  existence  was  openly 
promised  by  Napoleon,  and  hailed  with  rapture  by  the  Poles, 
but  the  downfall  of  the  French  monarch  disappointed  their  hopes. 
The  spirit,  however,  displayed  by  the  Polish  people  in  the  various 
transactions  of  the  times,  procured  for  them,  at  the  settlement 
of  the  affairs  of  Europe,  some  amelioration  of  their  condition. 

In  1815,  about  a  sixth  part  of  the  ancient  monarchy  was  formed 
into  a  separate  state,  which  received  the  still  cherished  name  of 
Poland.  The  Emperor  of  Russia  was  declared  king,  and  a  repre- 
sentative government  established  ;  but  such  intolerable  oppressions 
were  practised  during  a  period  of  15  years,  by  the  Russians,  that 
the  Poles  could  no  longer  refrain  from  attempting  to  regain  their 
national  independence.  Accordingly,  on  the  29th  November 
1830,  Warsaw  rose  inarms,  and  the  whole  kingdom  was  speedily 
in  revolt.  The  Poles  at  first  obtained  some  signal  advantages, 
but  no  foreign  power,  as  they  expected,  interfered  in  their  behalf; 
and  in  a  year  from  the  commencement  of  the  revolution,  Poland 
was  overpowered  by  numbers,  and  forced  again  to  submit.  The 
Russian  despotism  is  now  fully  established,  and  the  kingdom  is  in- 
corporated with  the  empire  of  the  Autocrat,  retaining  its  title  only. 

As  on  a  former  occasion,  many  distinguished  Poles  were  sent  to 
Siberia  and  the  interior  of  Russia,  and  numbers  of  all  ranks  emi- 
grated to  France,  the  United  States,  and  other  countries,  where, 
under  the  title  of  Polish  exiles,  they  have  been  everywhere  re- 
ceived with  enthusiasm,  and  treated  with  the  respect  due  to  their 
sufferings  and  exertions  in  the  cause  of  freedom. 


POLAND.  279 

The  exiled  Poles  now  exceed  in  number  those  of  any  former 
period,  and  include  many  of  the  most  popular  senators  and  repre- 
sentatives of  the  people,  with  the  chief  part  of  the  Generals  and 
officers  of  the  army.  The  last  Diet  enacted,  that  whenever  11 
Senators  and  33  Representatives  are  assembled  together,  no  mat- 
ter in  what  country,  they  shall  be  considered  as  the  National  Le- 
gislature of  Poland,  and  their  acts  held  to  be  legal  and  binding. 

Warsaw,  the  capital  of  Poland,  is  finely  situated  on  the  Vistula 
river.  During  the  war  which  terminated  in  the  subjugation  of 
Poland,  Warsaw  stood  the  heaviest  brunt  of  the  contest ;  and  its 
population  in  1782  was  reduced  to  75,000  ;  but  since  that  time  it 
has  rapidly  improved,  and  now  contains  150,000.  The  old  city 
consists  of  one  large  square  with  many  streets  branching  from  it, 
but  these,  as  in  all  ancient.  European  cities,  are  narrow  and  dirty. 

The  new  city  is  built  in  a  better  style ;  the  government  palace, 
the  palace  of  the  minister  of  finance,  and  the  national  bank  are 
splendid  buildings ;  the  streets  of  the  New  World,  Napoleon,  and 
Long  Streets,  with  the  suburb  of  Cracow  and  the  public  gardens, 
are  the  finest  parts  of  Warsaw.  The  suburb  of  Praga,  once  a 
strong  citadel,  was  almost  destroyed  in  the  dreadful  assault  by 
Suvvarrow,  in  1795 ;  it  was  subsequently  rebuilt  and  again  de- 
stroyed in  the  contest  of  1831.  Warsaw  originally  consisted  for 
the  most  part  of  wooden  houses ;  but  that  material  is  now  prohi- 
bited, and  three-fourths  of  its  buildings  are  constructed  of  stone 
and  brick. 

The  other  towns  in  the  present  kingdom  of  Poland  are  only  of 
secondary  importance.  Lublin,  which  ranks  second,  contains 
18,000  inhabitants.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  in  one  of  the  most 
fertile  districts  of  the  kingdom.  It  is  distinguished  by  the  castle 
of  Casimir  the  Great,  the  palace  of  Sobieski,  some  fine  churches, 
and  the  largest  synagogue  in  Poland.  Zamosc,  in  the  same  vi- 
cinity, and  Modlin,  near  Warsaw,  are  important  fortresses.  Ka- 
lisz,  on  the  Prosna  river,  is  a  well-built  town  with  12,000  inhabit- 
ants, a  military  school,  and  some  manufactures. 

The  Republic  of  Cracow  is  situated  in  the  southern  part  of 
Poland.  In  1815  the  allied  sovereigns,  unable  to  decide  to  which 
of  their  number  it  should  be  assigned,  formed  it  into  a  republic 
under  the  protection  of  Russia,  Prussia,  and  Austria.  The  free- 
dom which  it  enjoys,  though  only  by  sufferance,  has  rendered  this 
little  territory  more  fertile  and  smiling  than  any  other  part  of  Po- 
land. It  contains  about  500  square  miles,  and  124,000  inhabit- 
ants, of  which  20,000  reside  in  the  city. 

The  city  of  Cracow  stands  on  the  Vistula  river,  128  miles  from 
Warsaw.  It  is  decidedly  a  Catholic  city,  and  contains  87  monas- 
teries and  164  nunneries.     The  cathedral  is  noted  for  the  tomb 


280  EUROPE. 

of  St.  Stanislaus,  the  monument  of  Sobieski,  and  other  venerated 
mausoleums.  The  University  established  in  1346,  once  the  great 
school  of  the  north,  and  frequented  by  crowds  of  students,  was 
broken  up  during  the  civil  commotions,  and  the  attempts  to  restore 
it  to  its  ancient  splendour  have  been  fruitless.  It  has  at  present 
30  professors,  and  from  260  to  300  students.  A  remarkable 
monument  has  lately  been  raised  here  to  the  memory  of  Koscius- 
ko :  it  consists  of  a  mound,  Mogila  Kosciuski  (Kosciusko's  Mount), 
300  feet  in  height,  and  275  feet  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and  stand- 
ing upon  a  rising  ground  commanding  the  Vistula. 


DENMARK. 

Denmark  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  kingdoms  of  Europe,  and 
was  formerly  much  more  powerful  than  at  present.  It  is  now 
reduced  in  wealth  and  population,  and  ranks  only  as  a  third  or 
fourth  rate  monarchy.  Denmark,  Sweden,  and  Norway,  were 
formerly  called  Scandinavia. 

This  kingdom  includes  Denmark  Proper,  which  comprises  the 
peninsula  of  Jutland,  the  islands  of  Zealand,  Laaland,  Falster,  and 
a  few  others  in  the  Baltic ;  besides  the  duchies  of  Sleswick,  Hol- 
stein,  and  Lauenburg,  which  lie  between  Jutland  and  the  river 
Elbe.  The  colonies  are  Iceland,  and  the  Faroe  Isles  ;  some  settle- 
ments in  Greenland,  the  Danish  possessions  in  the  East  and  West 
Indies,  and  a  few  stations  on  the  coast  of  Guinea.  Area  of  the 
European  part  of  the  kingdom,  22,000  square  miles.  Population, 
2,100,000.     Population  of  the  colonies,  140,000. 

In  Denmark  the  climate  is  chilly  and  damp,  and  the  land  is  but 
moderately  fertile.  Barley,  rye  and  oats  are  the  principal  grains 
that  are  cultivated  ;  wheat  is  raised  in  some  quarters.  Cattle  and 
horses  are  reared  in  considerable  numbers,  and  large  quantities  of 
butter  and  cheese,  are  made  and  exported. 

The  commerce  consists  for  the  most  part  in  the  exportation  of 
the  raw  produce  of  the  soil,  and  the  transit  trade  between  the 
northern  and  middle  states  of  Europe,  employs  a  considerable 
amount  of  Danish  shipping.  Ship-building,  and  also  the  whale 
and  herring  fishing  are  carried  on  to  some  extent.  The  manu- 
factures are  chiefly  of  flax  and  hemp  for  domestic  use.  Some 
fabrics  of  cloths  of  different  kinds,  brandy,  and  sugar-refining, 
have  been  established  in  the  larger  towns,  under  the  patronage  of 
the  king. 

Since  the  year  1660,  the  government  has  been  absolute,  but  it 
has  been  of  late  so  mildly  and  beneficially  administered,  that  there 
is  in  reality  much  practical  freedom  in  Denmark.     The  nobles  are 


DENMARK. 


View  of  part  of  Copenhagen,  the  Capital  of  Denmark. 


Mount  Hecla,  in  Iceland. 

Hecla,  the  most  celebrated  of  the  Icelandic  volcanoes,  rises  to  the  height  of  5000  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea. 


Caldrons  of  Boiling  Mud,  on  Mount  Krabla,  Iceland. 

Some  of  these  caldrons  have  a  diameter  equal  to  that  of  the  Great  Geyser.    Their  eruptions 
take  place  at  short  intervals,  in  which  the  hot  mud  is  ejected  to  the  height  of  thirty  feet. 

2D*  341 


EUROPE. 


The  Great  Geyser,  or  Fountain  of  Boiling  Water,  Iceland. 

The  basin  of  the  Great  Geyser  is  of  an  oval  form,  with  diameters  of  64  and  58  feet.  Every 
soot  around  this  fountain  is  covered  with  variegated  and  beautiful  petrifactions  Leaves,  grass, 
and  rushes,  are  converted  into  white  stone,  preserving  entire  every  fibre. 


Peasantry  of  the  Northern  parts  of  Holland. 


Scenery  in  Holland. 


342 


DENMARK.  281 

few  in  number,  and  the  king  himself  presides  at  the  supreme  na- 
tional tribunal ;  he  is  also  a  member  of  the  Germanic  Confedera- 
tion, as  sovereign  of  Holstein  and  Lauenburg.  The  army  num- 
bers 40,000  regular  troops,  and  60,000  militia.  The  naval  force 
consists  of  six  ships  of  the  line,  six  frigates,  and  four  corvettes, 
besides  a  number  of  gun-boats. 

In  general  the  Danes  are  quiet  and  industrious,  and  the  inha- 
bitants of  the  towns  have  a  great  share  of  the  patient,  thrifty  and 
industrious  habits  of  the  Dutch.  The  peasantry,  but  recently 
emancipated  from  feudal  bondage,  are  beginning  to  exhibit  some 
signs  of  improvement.  Schools  are  numerous,  and  a  laudable 
attention  is  bestowed  on  the  education  of  the  people.  The  univer- 
sities of  Copenhagen  and  Kiel  are  respectable  institutions,  and  the 
literary  societies  of  the  metropolis  vie  with  those  of  any  other  Eu- 
ropean capital. 

Copenhagen,  the  metropolis  of  the  Danish  dominions,  is  one  of 
the  finest  cities  in  the  north  of  Europe ;  it  is  situated  on  the  east 
side  of  the  island  of  Zealand.  The  circumference  of  the  city  is 
about  five  miles ;  it  is  regularly  fortified  towards  the  land  and  sea. 
Many  of  the  streets  are  intersected  by  canals,  by  which  a  con- 
siderable commerce  is  carried  on.  Copenhagen  owes  much  of  its 
present  regularity  and  beauty  to  the  disastrous  fires,  by  which  it 
has  so  often  been  partially  destroyed.  The  buildings  are  mostly 
of  brick  covered  with  stucco,  or  of  Norwegian  marble.  Popula- 
tion, 115,000. 

Sleswick,  the  capital  of  the  duchy  of  that  name,  contains  15,000 
inhabitants.  Its  cathedral,  with  numerous  monuments  of  the  an- 
cient dukes,  is  viewed  with  interest  by  strangers.  Altona,  on  the 
Elbe,  about  two  miles  from  Hamburg,  is  a  place  of  considerable 
trade,  and  extensive  manufactures.     Population,  25,000. 

Elsinore,  or  Elsineur,  situated  at  the  narrowest  part  of  the 
Sound,  has  an  excellent  roadstead,  in  which  ships  anchor  almost 
close  to  the  town.  At  this  place  the  tolls  of  the  Sound  are  col- 
lected.    Population,  7000. 

Kiel,  the  capital  of  Holstein,  is  a  fortified  town  on  a  bay  of  the 
Baltic,  and  is  the  seat  of  a  celebrated  university.  Population, 
7500.  Gluckstadt,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Elbe,  has  some  trade, 
and  is  engaged  in  the  Greenland  fishery.  Population,  5200. 
Flensburg,  in  the  duchy  of  Sleswick,  has  a  good  harbour,  and  is 
a  place  of  some  commerce.     Population,  15,000. 

Iceland. — Iceland  forms  a  portion  of  the  foreign  possessions 
of  Denmark,  and  is  situated  in  the  Northern  Ocean,  at  the  farthest 
verge  of  the  civilized  world.     It  is  a  large  island,  230  miles  in 

24*  !M3 


282  EUROPE. 

length  and  220  in  breadth  ;  containing  about  40,000  square  miles, 
with  51,000  inhabitants. 

Hecla,  with  its  flaming  volcano,  is  the  most  celebrated  of  its 
mountains ;  but  its  eruptions,  of  which  six  have  occurred  in  the 
course  of  a  century,  are  at  present  suspended.  There  are  several 
other  volcanoes,  which,  in  the  course  of  the  last  hundred  years, 
have  emitted  twenty  eruptions. 

The  Geysers  consist  of  fountains  which  throw  up  boiling  water, 
spray  and  vapour,  to  the  height  of  90  or  100  feet,  at  intervals  of 
about  six  hours.  These  emissions  are  preceded  by  loud  reports, 
or  a  low  rumbling  noise,  resembling  that  of  artillery.  The  cal- 
drons of  boiling  mud  present  another  remarkable  phenomenon. 
These  consist  of  clay  impregnated  with  sulphur,  from  almost 
every  part  of  which  gas  and  steam  are  perpetually  escaping. 

Barley,  cabbages,  and  a  few  other  hardy  vegetables,  are  the 
only  articles  that  can  be  cultivated ;  and  the  inhabitants  depend 
chiefly  upon  the  abundance  of  fish  which  the  surrounding  seas 
afford. 

Iceland  was  discovered  about  the  year  840,  and  was  settled  by 
emigrants  from  Norway.  It  soon  became  an  independent  repub- 
lic; and  the  arts  and  literature,  almost  forgotten  in  the  rest  of  Eu- 
rope, were  cherished  in  this  remote  and  frozen  clime.  Iceland 
had  its  divines,  its  historians,  its  poets,  and  was  for  some  time  the 
most  enlightened  country  then  perhaps  existing.  Subjected  first 
to  Norway,  in  1261,  and  afterwards  to  Denmark,  it  lost  the  spirit 
and  energy  of  its  days  of  freedom. 

The  inhabitants  are  Lutherans,  and  remarkable  for  their  strict 
morals.  All  read  and  write,  and  some,  even  of  the  poorer  classes, 
speak  Latin  with  fluency  and  elegance.  There  are  few  or  no 
schools.  The  education  is  almost  entirely  domestic.  Reikiavig, 
the  chief  town  of  Iceland,  has  only  500  inhabitants,  but  contains 
a  lyceum,  a  library  of  5000  or  6000  volumes,  several  learned 
societies,  and  a  printing  establishment.  Skalholt,  Bessestadt,  and 
the  other  villages,  are  very  small. 

Faroe  Islands. — These  islands  compose  a  group  in  the  At- 
lantic Ocean,  between  Norway  and  Iceland.  The  principal  are 
Stromoe,  Osteroe,  Suderoe,  and  Sandoe ;  they  belong  to  Den- 
mark, and  have  a  population  of  6800.  Their  only  wealth  is  pro- 
duced by  the  rearing  of  sheep,  fishing,  and  catching  the  numerous 
birds  which  cluster  round  the  rocks.  With  the  surplus  of  these 
articles  they  supply  their  deficiency  of  grain.  Thorsharn,  on 
Stromoe,  is  the  only  place  that  can  be  called  a  town. 


NETHERLANDS.  — HOLLAND.  283 

THE  NETHERLANDS. 

The  late  kingdom  of  the  Netherlands,  comprising  Holland 
and  Belgium,  was  formed  in  1814,  and  abolished  in  1830  by  a 
revolt  of  the  people  of  the  latter  state,  and  the  erection  of  their 
country  into  a  separate  kingdom. 

The  territories  of  these  states,  situated  almost  in  the  centre  be- 
tween Northern  and  Southern  Europe,  possess  great  natural  ad- 
vantages for  industry  and  commerce,  and  have,  from  a  very  early 
period  of  modern  history,  ranked  as  one  of  the  most  prosperous 
and  flourishing  regions  of  this  quarter. 


HOLLAND. 

Holland  is  bounded  on  the  north  and  west  by  the  North  Sea, 
south  by  Belgium,  and  east  by  Germany.  It  contains  an  area  of 
11,000  square  miles,  and  a  population  of  2,800,000.  It  is  the 
most  level  country  in  Europe,  and  much  of  its  surface  is  below 
the  level  of  the  sea,  which  is  prevented  from  overflowing  the  land 
by  extensive  dikes  or  embankments,  which  still  require  incessant 
labour  to  maintain  them. 

The  Rhine  and  the  Maese  are  the  principal  rivers  of  Holland. 
The  Zuyder  Zee  is  a  large  inland  bay,  60  miles  in  extent.  The 
Sea  of  Haarlem  is  a  lake,  14  miles  in  length,  to  the  west  of  the 
Zuyder  Zee,  and  communicating  with  it  by  the  river  Y,  which 
passes  by  Amsterdam. 

Canals  are  almost  as  numerous  in  Holland  as  roads  in  other 
countries,  and  the  ground  is  so  level  that  they  scarcely  need  a  lock 
in  their  construction.  Some  of  them  are  as  old  as  the  10th  cen- 
tury. The  most  noted  is  the  Great  Dutch  Canal,  50  miles  in 
length  from  Amsterdam  to  the  Helder.  It  was  completed  in  1825, 
and  is  sufficiently  wide  to  allow  two  frigates  to  pass  each  other. 

The  Dutch,  by  unwearied  industry,  have  conquered  every  dis- 
advantage of  climate,  soil  and  territory,  and  have  converted  their 
boggy  and  sterile  territory  into  one  of  the  richest  spots  in  Europe. 

The  grain  raised  is  not  sufficient  for  home  consumption,  but  the 
products  of  the  dairy  are  abundant,  and  cattle  are  fattened  to  a 
great  size.  Wheat,  rye,  barley,  oats,  and  buckwheat,  are  raised 
for  internal  consumption :  and  madder,  rape-seed,  hops,  tobacco, 
clover-seed,  mustard-seed,  flax,  and  hemp,  for  consumption  and 
exportation.  The  gardens  and  orchards  are  kept  in  very  neat 
order. 

Holland  became,  at  an  early  period,  a  maritime  power,  and 
established  settlements  in  various  parts  of  the  world.  The  manu- 
factures of  the  country  were  the  great  supports  of  its  commerce, 

345 


284  EUROPE. 

and  before  the  French  revolution  there  was  scarcely  any  branch 
of  that  department  of  industry  in  which  the  Dutch  were  not  en- 
gaged. Though  greatly  checked  by  the  rivalship  of  the  English, 
the  manufactures  are  still  extensive  :  they  consist  of  woollen,  linen 
and  silk  goods ;  tobacco,  snuff,  pipes,  leather,  refined  sugar,  &c. 
Holland  gin  is  extensively  distilled ;  that  of  Schiedam  is  noted. 

The  commerce  of  Holland,  once  the  greatest  in  the  world,  was 
prostrated  for  a  period  by  the  political  revolutions  of  modern  times, 
but  it  has  again  become  very  considerable.  The  herring  fishery 
has  been  carried  on  by  the  Dutch  for  more  than  700  years.  A 
century  ago  the  business  employed  100,000  fishermen,  but  at  pre- 
sent it  is  not  so  extensive. 

The  general  method  of  travelling  in  Holland,  is  by  the  canal 
or  drag-boat.  The  expense  does  not  exceed  three  cents  a  mile, 
and  the  rate  of  travelling  is  three  miles  an  hour,  which  is  so  inva- 
riably the  result,  that  distances  are  reckoned  by  hours,  and  not  by 
miles.  When  frozen,  the  canals  are  travelled  over  by  sleighs  and 
skates.  All  persons  skate ;  the  peasant  girl  skates  to  market, 
with  her  merchandise  on  her  head,  the  senator  to  his  assembly, 
and  the  clergyman  to  his  church. 

The  Dutch  are  distinguished  for  frugality,  neatness,  and  indus- 
try. They  are  grave,  quiet,  and  domestic,  and  enjoy  much  hap- 
piness in  their  family  circles.  Generally  they  prefer  gain  to  am- 
bition, but  in  their  dealings  they  are  strictly  honest.  The  very 
soil  they  till  is  a  monument  of  their  perseverance  and  industry. 
They  live  in  a  country  of  meadows,  reclaimed  from  the  sea,  and 
the  acquisition  is  maintained  only  by  continual  vigilance,  toil,  and 
expense. 

The  predominant  religion  of  Holland  is  the  Presbyterian,  but 
all  sects  enjoy  religious  freedom.  The  government  allows  sala- 
ries, of  a  greater  or  less  amount,  to  the  clergy  of  every  persua- 
sion, only  making  those  of  the  prevailing  creed  rather  higher  than 
the  others. 

The  naval  power  of  Holland,  once  the  greatest  in  Europe,  has 
not  recovered  from  the  low  state  to  which  it  was  reduced  by  the 
disasters  of  the  revolutionary  war.  It  consists  of  8  ships  of  the 
line,  18  frigates,  4  steam-ships,  and  from  110  to  120  corvettes, 
brigs,  and  smaller  vessels. 

The  foreign  possessions  of  Holland  are,  in  the  east,  Java,  and 
the  Molucca  Islands,  with  settlements  in  Sumatra,  Celebes,  and 
Borneo ;  in  Africa,  El  Mina  and  some  other  factories  on  the 
Gold  Coast ;  in  America,  Surinam,  Curacoa,  St.  Eustatia,  Saba,  &c. 
The  inhabitants  of  the  whole  of  these  territories  are  estimated 
to  amount  to  6,600,000,  making  the  subjects  of  the  Dutch 
monarchy  number  9,400,000.     Both  the  navy  and  the  colonial 


HOLLAND.  285 

possessions,  in  the  separation  of  the  two  kingdoms,  remain  with 
Holland. 

The  government  is  a  constitutional  hereditary  monarchy.  The 
legislative  power  is  vested  in  the  king  and  the  states  general,  a 
body  consisting  of  two  chambers,  which  meet  annually.  The 
constitution  provides  for  the  security  of  persons  and  property,  for 
trials  within  three  days,  and  for  the  liberty  of  the  press,  under 
the  responsibility  of  him  who  writes,  prints,  or  distributes.  Reli- 
gious toleration  is  secured,  and  judges  cannot  be  removed  by  the 
executive. 

Holland  is  divided  into  ten  provinces ;  North  Holland,  South 
Holland,  Zealand,  Utrecht,  Guelderland,  Overyssel,  Drenthe, 
Groningen,  Friesland,  and  North  Brabant. 

Amsterdam,  the  capital,  one  of  the  largest  cities  in  Europe, 
stands  on  an  arm  of  the  Zuyder  Zee,  called  the  river  Y.  The 
whole  city  is  built  upon  piles  driven  into  the  ground.  It  is  in  the 
form  of  a  crescent,  and  is  intersected  by  the  river  Amstel,  and  a 
great  number  of  canals,  over  which  there  are  280  bridges  of 
stone  and  wood.  Many  of  the  canals  are  bordered  with  trees, 
and  afford  pleasant  views,  but  the  stagnant  water  they  contain 
infects  the  air.  The  houses  and  streets  are  kept  remarkably 
clean. 

The  Stadthouse  is  the  most  splendid  building  in  Holland.  It 
rests  upon  a  foundation  of  13,659  oaken  piles,  and  is  built  of 
freestone,  with  a  front  of  282  feet ;  its  interior  is  adorned  with 
marble,  jasper,  statues,  paintings,  and  other  costly  ornaments, 
and  the  whole  edifice  was  completed  at  a  cost  of  9,000,000  dol- 
lars. There  is  an  elegant  bridge  over  the  Amstel,  600  feet  in 
length.  The  churches  are  not  remarkable  for  architectural 
beauty.  Amsterdam  is  a  place  of  great  commerce,  although 
much  declined  from  its  former  wealth  and  activity.  The  har- 
bour is  spacious,  but  only  light  vessels  can  enter.  It  has  many 
establishments  for  literature,  the  arts,  and  charitable  purposes, 
with  various  manufactures.     Population,  200,000. 

Haarlem,  on  the  sea  or  lake  of  that  name,  has  many  fine  build- 
ings, and  the  largest  church  in  Holland  :  the  organ  of  this  church 
is  the  largest  in  the  world,  having  8000  pipes,  some  of  them  38 
feet  in  length.  This  city  has  many  manufactures,  and  claims 
the  invention  of  printing.  The  inhabitants  show  the  house  of 
Lawrence  Koster,  the  inventor.  Population,  18,000.  Utrecht, 
on  the  Rhine,  is  a  place  of  great  antiquity,  and  has  a  famous 
university.  It  exhibits  the  ruins  of  a  fine  cathedral.  Popula- 
tion, 34,000. 

Rotterdam  is  the  second  commercial  city  in  the  kingdom,  and 
by  its  deep  canals  will  admit  the  largest  vessels  to  the  doors  of 


286  EUROPE. 

its  warehouses.  The  style  of  Dutch  architecture  is  more  par 
ticularly  striking  in  this  city.  The  houses  are  high,  with  pro- 
jecting stories ;  they  are  built  of  very  small  bricks,  and  have 
large  windows.  This  was  the  birth-place  of  Erasmus,  and  on 
the  bank  of  one  of  the  canals  stands  his  statue  in  bronze.  Popu- 
lation, 63,000. 

The  Hague  is  the  seat  of  the  Dutch  government,  although  pos- 
sessing only  the  name  of  a  village.  The  magnificence  of  its 
edifices  and  the  general  neatness  of  the  city,  strike  the  attention 
of  every  visiter.  The  streets  are  regular,  and  paved  with  light- 
coloured  bricks.  Population,  45,000.  Leyden,  four  miles  from 
the  sea,  stands  on  the  ancient  bed  of  the  Rhine.  It  has  the  most 
magnificent  church  in  Holland,  and  is  famous  for  its  university : 
population,  29,000.  Groningen  has  an  university  and  many 
learned  institutions :  population,  28,000.  Nimeguen,  on  the 
Waal,  has  some  manufactures  and  commerce:  population,  14,000. 
Middleburg,  on  the  island  of  Walcheren,  has  a  large  Gothic  town- 
house  ornamented  with  statues:  population,  13,200. 

Breda,  at  the  junction  of  the  Aa  and  the  Werck,  is  one  of  the 
strongest  towns  in  Holland :  it  has  a  magnificent  cathedral : 
population,  9000.  Dort  or  Dordrecht,  on  an  island  formed  by 
the  Maese  and  the  Biesbosch,  has  a  great  trade  in  wood  brought 
down  the  Rhine :  population,  17,387.  Saardan,  on  the  river 
Zaan,  is  a  considerable  town  of  wooden  houses,  almost  all  of 
which  are  painted  green  :  it  has  considerable  commerce  and  ship- 
building :  almost  every  house  is  surrounded  by  water,  and  forms 
with  its  garden  a  small  island. 


BELGIUM. 

Belgium,  or  Flanders,  is  a  fine  fertile  country  situated  to  the 
southward  of  Holland,  and  is  in  proportion  to  its  extent  the  most 
thickly  peopled  kingdom  in  Europe.  It  is  filled  with  populous 
cities,  and  covered  with  places  remarkable  in  history  as  the  scenes 
of  great  victories  and  defeats.  Perhaps  no  country  in  the  world 
has  been  the  theatre  of  so  many  bloody  battles  and  sieges  as  Bel- 
gium, and  the  whole  art  of  war  has  been  exhausted  in  its  attack 
and  defence. 

This  kingdom  is  bounded  north  by  Holland,  east  by  Germany, 
south-west  by  France,  and  north-west  by  the  North  Sea ;  com- 
prising an  area  of  13,000  square  miles. 

The  chief  rivers  are  the  Scheldt  and  Meuse.  The  Scheldt 
rises  in  France  and  flows  north-easterly  into  this  country,  where 


HOLLAND. 


View  of  patt  of  Amsterdam. 


The  Stadt  House,  now  the  Royal  Palace,  Amsterdam 


View  of  a  Canal  in  the  Hague,  the  Capital  of  Holland. 


View  of  part  of  Rotterdam. 
2E 


349 


EUROPE. 


St.  I'eter's  Church,  Leyden. 


Haarlem,  famous  for  its  trade  in  flowers,  and  the  skill  of  the  inhabitants  in  bleaching 


Brussels,  the  Capital  of  Belgium. 


View  of  part  of  Antwerp,  in  Belgium. 


350 


BELGIUM.  287 

it  turns  to  the  north  and  north-west,  and,  dividing  into  several 
channels,  falls  into  the  North  Sea.  The  former,  though  not 
remarkable  for  length,  is  a  wide  and  deep  river.  Antwerp  and 
Ghent  are  situated  upon  it.  The  Meuse  flows  through  the  eastern 
part  of  the  country  from  France  to  Holland. 

The  climate  of  Belgium  much  resembles  that  of  the  south  of 
England.  In  the  interior  the  air  is  salubrious  ;  but  upon  the  coast 
and  about  the  mouths  of  the  Scheldt,  the  air  is  moist  and  un- 
healthful. 

The  soil,  in  general,  is  moderately  fertile.  The  whole  country 
is  level,- but  somewhat  less  so  than  Holland.  In  the  south  are 
some  hills  of  moderate  height.  The  canals  in  Belgium  are  spa- 
cious and  commodious,  connecting  all  the  great  cities,  though  not 
nearly  in  equal  number,  nor  uniting  every  village,  as  in  Holland. 

The  agriculture  of  this  country  has  been  celebrated  for  more 
than  600  years :  all  travellers  bestow  high  praise  upon  the  skill 
and  industry  of  the  Flemish  farmers.  Wheat,  flax,  barley,  oats, 
madder,  hops,  and  tobacco,  are  raised  in  great  quantities.  Pas- 
turage is  abundant ;  the  clover  and  turnips  support  great  numbers 
of  cattle,  principally  cows. 

Three  hundred  years  ago,  the  Flemings  were  one  of  the  most 
commercial  and  manufacturing  nations  of  Europe.  Bruges,  and 
afterwards  Antwerp,  were  the  centres  of  an  extensive  commerce, 
which  finally  passed  mostly  into  the  hands  of  the  Dutch.  The 
manufactures  of  Belgium  are,  however,  still  valuable  and  various ; 
the  principal  are  fine  linen  fabrics,  laces,  lawns,  and  cambrics, 
in  which  the  manufactures  of  Mechlin,  Brussels,  &c.  continue 
unrivalled.     The  Flemish  breweries  are  also  very  extensive. 

The  manners  and  customs  of  the  Belgians  are  somewhat  simi- 
lar to  those  of  France  ;  though  in  character  they  bear  more  resem- 
blance to  the  Dutch;  and  have  a  national  antipathy  to  them,  and 
a  preference  for  the  French.  They  are  no  less  industrious  and 
persevering  than  the  Dutch,  and  nearly  as  phlegmatic. 

The  religion  of  this  country  is  the  Catholic,  though  there  are 
some  Protestants,  whose  ministers  are,  as  well  as  those  of  the 
established  church,  supported  by  the  government. 

The  provision  for  education  in  Belgium  is  extensive.  There 
are  four  universities,  those  of  Ghent,  Liege,  Louvain,  and  Brus- 
sels, with  about  1200  students;  and  there  are  more  than  5000 
primary  schools,  with  almost  400,000  scholars. 

Brussels,  the  capital  of  Belgium,  stands  on  both  sides  of  the 
little  river  Sennc,  flowing  into  the  Scheldt.  The  suburbs  are 
extensive,  and  there  are  many  neighbouring  villages  joined  ro  the 
city  by  long  avenues.  The  lower  part  of  the  town  consists  of 
narrow  streets  and  old  houses.     The  upper  part  is  modern  and 

351 


288  EUROPE. 

regular,  with  fine  buildings  and  a  beautiful  park  laid  out  in  large 
regular  walks,  shaded  with  trees  and  surrounded  by  palaces, 
public  offices,  and  elegant  private  houses.  Public  fountains  are 
interspersed  throughout  the  city,  and  a  large  canal  here  leaves 
the  river. 

The  Hotel  de  Ville  is  remarkable  for  its  exquisite  gothic  spire, 
which  looks  like  the  work  of  fairy  hands.  There  are  many  fine 
squares  and  palaces,  and  in  the  Orange  palace  is  a  library  of 
100,000  volumes.  Half  a  league  from  the  city  is  the  splendid 
palace  of  Schoonenburg.  Brussels  is  distinguished  for  its  manu- 
factures of  laces,  carpets,  tapestry,  woollen  and  cotton  cloths, 
silk  stockings,  gold  and  silver  lace,  and  earthen-ware.  Popula- 
tion, 106,000. 

Ghent  stands  at  the  confluence  of  three  rivers  with  the  Scheldt, 
and  is  seven  miles  in  compass,  but  contains  within  its  walls  many 
fields  and  unoccupied  grounds.  Many  of  its  canals  are  bordered 
with  quays  planted  with  rows  of  trees.  The  houses  are  large, 
but  heavy  and  inelegant :  here  is  a  fine  Gothic  cathedral,  with 
marble  floors  and  pillars.  Ghent  has  manufactures  of  fine  lace, 
cotton,  linen,  woollen,  silk,  paper,  and  leather :  the  trade  of  the 
city  has  lately  increased.     Population,  80,000. 

Antwerp,  on  the  Scheldt,  is  a  large  and  well-built  city,  sur- 
rounded by  a  wall  with  carriage  roads  on  the  top  planted  with 
rows  of  trees.  The  city  is  built  in  the  form  of  a  semicircle,  and 
is  intersected  by  canals.  The  cathedral  is  one  of  the  finest 
gothic  structures  in  the  world,  and  its  spire  is  unrivalled :  it  is 
441  feet  high.  The  stadthouse  and  exchange  are  noble  edifices. 
The  harbour  is  deep  and  capacious.  In  the  height  of  its  pros- 
perity, Antwerp  was  one  of  the  most  flourishing  and  wealthy 
commercial  cities  in  the  world,  and  contained  200,000  inhabit- 
ants. Its  commerce  has  greatly  declined,  and  the  city  has  a 
decayed  and  solitary  appearance.  The  inhabitants  carry  on  a 
few  manufactures.     Population,  65,000. 

Liege,  on  the  Maese,  is  divided  into  three  parts  by  the  river, 
and  has  extensive  suburbs.  The  houses  are  high,  and  many  of 
the  streets  are  narrow,  crooked,  and  gloomy.  The  manufac- 
tures consist  of  iron,  fire-arms,  clock-work,  nails,  &c.  Popula- 
tion, 54,000. 

Bruges,  eight  miles  from  the  sea,  stands  in  a  fertile  plain.  It 
communicates  with  the  sea  and  the  towns  in  the  interior  by 
canals.  Here  are  a  college,  an  academy  for  painting,  sculpture, 
and  architecture,  several  literary  societies,  a  public  library  of 
6000  volumes,  and  a  botanical  garden.  The  manufacture  of 
lace  employs  6000  people,  and  there  are  a  number  of  schools  in 
which  children  are  taught  this  art.     The  town-house  is  a  superb 


GREAT    BRITAIN    AND    IRELAND.  289 

gothic  edifice ;  its  steeple  is  furnished  with  chimes  of  bells  which 
play  a  different  tune  every  quarter  of  an  hour.  Population,  36,000. 
Louvain  is  a  large  and  ancient  town  with  a  famous  university: 
population,  19,000.  Namur,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Maese  and 
Sambre,  is  a  well-built  town ;  the  houses  are  constructed  of  a 
blue  stone  with  red  and  black  veins :  it  has  a  citadel  on  the  sum- 
mit of  a  precipitous  rock :  population,  15,000.  Luxemburg  is  a 
strongly  fortified  city:  population,  10,000.  Spa  is  famous  for 
its  mineral  springs,  situated  in  a  valley  surrounded  by  steep 
woody  hills :  it  has  also  some  manufactures.  Gemappes  and 
Waterloo  are  celebrated  for  the  battles  fought  in  their  neighbour- 
hood. Ostend,  a  few  miles  west  of  Bruges,  is  one  of  the  most 
important  sea-ports  in  the  country  :  regular  packets  sail  from  this 
place  to  England  several  times  a  week,  and  it  has  a  great  trade 
in  the  exportation  of  grain  and  other  products:  population,  11,000. 


GREAT   BRITAIN  AND   IRELAND. 

The  united  kingdom  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland  comprises 
the  kingdoms  of  England,  Scotland,  and  Ireland,  with  the  princi- 
pality of  Wales.  It  consists  of  the  islands  of  Great  Britain  and 
Ireland,  commonly  called  the  British  Islands.  Great  Britain  is 
610  miles  long,  and  from  300  to  100  miles  wide.  Ireland  is 
300  miles  long,  and  160  wide.  Both  islands  contain,  together, 
an  area  of  121,000  square  miles. 

The  possessions  of  this  kingdom  embrace  territories  in  every 
quarter  of  the  earth,  which  are  so  distributed  over  its  surface, 
that  on  them  the  sun  never  sets,  but  in  his  daily  progress  con- 
stantly enlightens,  in  succession,  some  part  of  these  wide-spread 
"domains.  The  inhabitants  of  the  whole  of  the  British  Empire, 
are  estimated  to  amount  to  more  than  150,000,000;  comprising, 
with  the  exception  of  China,  the  greatest  number  of  subjects  under 
the  control  of  any  one  sovereign  in  the  world.  This  vast  popu- 
lation embraces  nations  and  tribes  of  every  form,  colour,  and 
condition ;  from  the  most  refined  and  intelligent,  to  the  most 
savage,  ignorant,  and  degraded  of  the  human  family. 

The  constitution  of  Great  Britain  is  an  hereditary  monarchy, 
in  which  the  power  of  the  sovereign  is  controlled  by  the  influence 
of  the  aristocracy  in  the  house  of  peers,  and  by  that  of  the 
democracy  in  the  house  of  commons.  The  House  of  Lords  is 
composed  of  all  the  nobility  of  England  who  have  attained  the 
age  of  twenty-one  years,  and  who  labour  under  no  disqualifica- 
tion ;  of  16  representative  peers  from  Scotland,  of  28  representa- 

25  2  E  *  353 


^ 


9 


*s 


290  EUROPE. 

tive  peers  from  Ireland ;  and  likewise  of  30  spiritual  lords,  viz. 
the  two  English  archbishops  and  24  bishops,  and  one  archbishop 
and  three  bishops  of  Ireland.  In  1838  the  whole  number  was 
443.  The  house  of  commons  consists  of  658  members,  of  which 
471  are  English,  29  Welsh,  53  Scotch,  and  105  Irish. 

The  ministry  is  composed  of  the  first  lords  of  the  treasury,  the 
chancellor  of  the  exchequer,  the  three  secretaries  of  foreign  affairs, 
of  the  home  department,  and  of  war,  the  lord  chancellor,  the 
president  of  the  council,  the  treasurer  of  the  navy,  the  paymaster 
of  the  forces,  the  commissioners  of  the  treasury,  and  other  per- 
sons of  high  trust.  The  first  lord  of  the  treasury  is  mostly  con- 
sidered the  premier,  or  prime  minister. 

The  navy  is  the  force  on  which  Great  Britain  mainly  relies 
for  maintaining  her  own  independence,  and  of  securing  her  pos- 
sessions in  the  most  distant  quarters  of  the  globe ;  of  protecting 
her  commerce,  and  sustaining  the  exertions  of  her  armies  in  time 
of  war.  During  the  most  active  period  of  the  last  maritime  con- 
test, the  number  of  seamen  and  marines  in  employment  amounted 
to  170,000 ;  and  there  were  in  commission  160  sail  of  the  line, 
150  frigates,  and  other  vessels,  to  the  amount  altogether  of  more 
than  1000  sail.  The  naval  force  is  at  present  near  600  sail,  of 
which  about  one-third  is  in  actual  service,  and  manned  by  up- 
wards of  30,000  sailors  and  marines. 

The  military  force  of  the  nation  at  the  close  of  the  French 
wars,  amounted  to  200,000  regular  troops,  exclusive  of  about 
100,000  embodied  militia,  a  large  amount  of  local  militia  and 
volunteers,  to  which  might  also  be  added  a  number  of  regiments 
employed  in  the  territories  of  the  East  India  Company,  and  in 
its  pay.  After  the  peace  of  1815,  a  rapid  reduction  of  the  mili- 
tary establishment  was  effected  ;  and  it  now  amounts  to  about 
100,000  men,  a  large  portion  of  which  are  stationed  in  Ireland 
and  the  colonies. 

The  national  debt  of  Great  Britain,  contracted  in  about  150 
years,  amounts  to  3,700,000,000  dollars.  This  vast  debt  has 
been  incurred  by  borrowing  money,  from  time  to  time,  to  pay 
the  expenses  chiefly  of  the  various  wars  in  which  the  nation  has 
been  engaged.  The  debt  exists  in  the  form  of  stock,  on  which 
interest  is  paid  by  the  government  every  year;  and  for  an  indi- 
vidual to  possess  shares  of  this  stock,  is  to  be  a  creditor  of  the 
nation.  There  are  about  300,000  holders  of  public  stock  in  Great 
Britain.  The  annual  interest  paid  on  the  national  debt,  is  about 
140,000,000  dollars.  The  annual  income  of  the  kingdom  is 
about  250,000,000  dollars,  and  the  expenditure  nearly  the  same. 

The  manufactures  of  Britain  have  raised  her  to  a  decided  supe- 
riority over  all  other  nations.     This  distinction  she  has  attained. 


GREAT    BRITAIN    AND    IRELAND.  291 

not  so  much  by  their  extreme  fineness,  as  by  the  immensity  of 
useful  and  valuable  products  calculated  for  the  consumption  of 
the  great  body  of  mankind ;  and,  above  all,  in  the  stupendous 
exertions  made  in  contriving  and  constructing  the  machinery  by 
which  they  are  produced.  About  one-fourth  of  the  whole  indus- 
try of  the  country  is  absorbed  by  the  cotton  manufacture,  the 
annual  amount  of  which  is  estimated  at  165,000,0000  dollars. 
Of  this,  87,000,000  dollars  is  paid  in  wages  to  800,000  persons 
employed  in  its  various  branches.  The  annual  value  of  the 
woollen  manufactures  is  near  100,000,000  dollars,  and  the  peo- 
ple employed  number  about  500,000.  The  value  of  silk  goods 
made  is  reckoned  at  about  50,000,000  dollars.  Ot  the  differ- 
ent manufactures  of  metals,  the  entire  produce  is  upwards  of 
80,000,000  dollars,  employing  350,000  people. 

The  commerce  of  Great  Britain  is  superior  to  that  of  any  other 
nation,  and  extends  to  all  quarters  of  the  world.  The  imports 
amount  to  the  value  of  from  210,000,000  to  220,000,000,  and 
the  exports  to  from  270,000,000  to  350,000,000  dollars,  annu- 
ally. The  merchant  vessels,  including  those  of  the  colonies, 
number  more  than  27,000,  and  are  navigated  by  180,000  men. 
One-sixth  of  the  shipping  belongs  to  the  port  of  London,  and  two- 
thirds  of  the  commerce  is  carried  on  at  that  city.  From  17,000 
to  19,000  vessels  enter  the  ports  of  Great  Britain  every  year. 
The  foreign  trade  of  this  country  is  equalled  only  by  an  internal 
commerce  unparalleled  in  activity  and  importance. 

Coal,  the  most  valuable  of  all  the  mineral  substances  from 
which  Britain  derives  her  prosperity,  exists  in  vast  quantities  in 
various  parts  of  the  island  :  the  amount  annually  raised  and  con- 
sumed  is  computed  at  between  15,000,000  and  16,000,000  tons; 
giving  employment,  in  all  its  branches,  to  not  less  than  160,000 
persons.  Of  salt,  the  annual  produce  of  the  various  kinds  is 
about  15,000,000  bushels,  of  which  10,000,000  are  exported. 

The  colonies  of  Great  Britain  are  found  in  every  quarter  of 
the  globe.  The  most  important  are  the  East  India  possessions, 
which  comprise  above  1,000,000  square  miles  of  territory,  and 
a  population  of  upwards  of  120,000,000.  These  are  under  the 
sway  of  a  mercantile  association  in  London,  called  the  English 
East  India  Company,  which  has  existed  for  above  two  centuries. 

The  colonies  belonging  to  the  crown  are  —  in  Europe,  Heligo- 
land, Gibraltar,  Malta,  Gozzo  and  Comino,  and  the  Ionian  Islands; 
— Asia,  Hindoostan,  Ceylon,  Pulo  Pinang  Island,  Singapore,  and 
the  provinces  in  Birmah  ;  —  Africa,  Sierra  Leone,  the  factories 
on  the  Gold  Coast,  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  Isle  of  France,  Sey- 
chelles, St.  Helena,  and  Ascension;  —  Oceanica,  Australia  and 
Van  Diemen's  Land; — America,  New  Britain,  Canada,  New 


292  EUROPE. 

Brunswick,  Nova  Scotia  and  Cape  Breton,  Newfoundland,  Prince 
Edward's  Island,  the  Bermudas,  the  Bahamas,  Jamaica,  and  the 
other  West  India  Islands ;  Honduras,  or  the  Balize  Territory, 
and  the  colonies  in  Guiana. 

POPULATION  AND  AREA  OF  THE  BRITISH  EMPIRE  AND  COLONIES. 

Square  Miles.  Population. 

Great  Britain  and  Ireland 121,000  25,000,000 

North  America 2,310,000  1,360,000 

West  Indies  and  South  America 180,000  845,000 

Africa 170,000  300,000 

East  India  Company's  territories 1,058,000  123,000,000 

Ceylon,  Provinces  in  Chin-India,  &c 122,000  1,400,000 

Oceamca 3,028,000  121,000 


Total 6,989,000    152,026,000 


ENGLAND. 

England  is  the  largest  and  most  populous  division  of  Great 
Britain,  and  embraces  the  southernmost  part  of  the  island.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  Scotland,  south  by  the  English  Chan- 
nel, east  by  the  North  Sea,  and  west  by  St.  George's  Channel, 
Wales,  and  the  Irish  Sea.  It  is  360  miles  in  length,  and  from 
210  to  100  miles  in  breadth.  Area,  51,000  square  miles.  Popu- 
lation, 13,500,000. 

The  general  aspect  of  England  is  varied  and  delightful,  being 
beautifully  diversified  with  hills,  valleys,  and  plains.  Though 
for  the  most  part  a  level  country,  yet  mountain  ranges,  of  mode- 
rate altitude,  are  to  be  met  with  in  various  quarters.  The  Cheviot 
and  Cumberland  hills  in  the  north  are  the  most  elevated.  Hel- 
vellyn  and  Skiddaw,  in  the  latter  ridge,  are  each  about  3000  feet 
high.  There  are  also  some  detached  ranges  in  the  central  and 
western  parts  of  the  country.  Derby  High  Peak,  and  Mam  Tor, 
are  the  most  noted  elevations  in  the  former  division. 

The  rivers  of  England,  though  deficient  in  magnitude,  are 
numerous,  commodious,  and  valuable.  The  largest  is  the  Severn, 
which  rises  in  Wales :  in  the  lower  part  of  its  course  it  forms  a 
wide  bay,  called  the  Bristol  Channel.  It  is  200  miles  long,  and 
is  navigable  for  large  vessels  to  some  extent. 

The  Thames  rises  near  the  Severn  in  the  lower  part  of  its 
course,  and  flows  east  into  the  North  Sea.  It  is  160  miles  long, 
and  is  navigable  for  ships  to  London,  60  miles.  This  is  the  most 
important  river  of  Great  Britain  for  navigation.  The  Mersey  is 
a  small  stream  flowing  into  the  Irish  Sea  at  Liverpool  j  it  is  navi- 
gable 35  miles.   The  Dee  rises  in  Wales,  and  flows  into  the  Irish 


ENGLAND. 


Keswick  Lake,  or  Derwent water,  Cumberland. 


&3S?* 


Ullswater,  Cumberland. 

Keswick,  Ullswater,  and  other  English  Lakes,  would  be  styled  ponds  in  the  United  States. 
They  are,  however,  highly  celebrated  for  their  natural  beauty,  and  are  much  visited  by  those 
who  delight  in  romantic  and  interesting  scenery. 


Entrance  to  the  Peak  Cavern,  Derbyshire. 

Teak  Cavern  is  a  deep  cave  thnt  descends  between  lofty  perpendicular  rocks.    It  is  about  half 
■  length,  and  its  lowest  part  is  GOO  feet  below  the  surface. 


EUROPE. 


Land's  End,  the  most  western  point  of  England. 


Worcester  Cathedral. 
Worcester  Cathedral  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  edifices  in  England,  having  been  built  in  the 
geventh  century,  and  partially  rebuilt  in  the  thirteenth  and  fourteenth  centuries.    It  is  of  great 
extent,  simple  and  grand  in  its  style  of  architecture. 


Salisbury  Cathedral. 

Salisbury  Cathedral,  built  in  li!5H,  is  one  of  the  finest  Gothic  structures  in  the  world ,  it  has 
the  loftiest  spire  in  Britain,  being  410  feet  high. 

358 


ENGLAND.  293 

Sea  near  the  mouth  of  the  Mersey.  The  Trent  and  Ouse  rise  in 
the  north,  and  by  their  junction  form  the  Humber. 

The  lakes  are  numerous,  and  occur  principally  in  the  north- 
west portions  of  the  kingdom,  of  which  Windermere,  the  largest, 
only  twelve  miles  long  and  one  broad,  has  been  raised  to  distinc- 
tion by  the  taste  of  the  age  for  picturesque  beauty,  rather  than 
as  a  geographical  feature  of  the  country. 

England  has  an  atmosphere  of  fogs,  rain,  and  perpetual  change ; 
yet  the  climate  is  mild.  The  rigours  of  winter  and  the  heats  of 
summer  are  less  felt  than  on  the  continent  under  the  same  paral- 
lel. The  perpetual  moisture  of  the  air  is  sometimes  unfavourable 
to  the  crops,  but  its  general  effect  is  to  cover  the  whole  island 
with  the  deepest  verdure.  The  meadows  and  fields  are  usually 
green  throughout  the  winter :  and  the  transient  snows  that  occa- 
sionally fall  upon  them,  are  insufficient  to  deprive  them  of  their 
brilliancy. 

Notwithstanding  the  general  inferiority  of  the  soil,  England  is 
under  such  excellent  cultivation,  that  the  country  may  be  con- 
sidered as  one  great  garden.  Farming  is,  in  many  parts,  con- 
ducted on  a  great  scale,  by  men  of  intelligence,  enterprise,  and 
capital ;  and  the  science  as  well  as  practice  of  agriculture  is  car- 
ried on  to  a  high  degree  of  perfection.  Wheat,  barley,  potatoes, 
hops,  rye,  beans,  peas,  &c.  are  the  chief  products. 

•Mines  form  one  of  the  most  copious  sources  of  the  wealth  of 
this  country.  The  useful  metals  and  minerals,  those  which  afford 
the  instruments  of  manufacture,  and  are  subservient  to  the  daily 
purposes  of  life,  are  now  drawn  from  the  earth  more  copiously 
there  than  in  any  other  country.  Her  most  valuable  metals  are 
iron,  copper,  and  tin  ;  her  principal  minerals  are  coal  and  salt. 

The  commerce  of  England  is  unrivalled  by  that  of  any  other 
nation  in  the  world.  Every  quarter  of  the  globe  seems  tributary 
to  the  enterprise  and  perseverance  of  this  great  commercial  peo- 
ple. The  manufactures  of  this  kingdom  far  surpass  in  amount 
and  variety,  those  of  any  other  nation  that  has  ever  existed  ;  and 
form  the  most  astonishing  display  of  the  fruits  of  human  industry 
and  skill. 

The  vast  numbers  of  people  employed  in  them,  give  no  ade- 
quate idea  of  their  immense  extent,  as  the  great  perfection  to 
which  labour-saving  machinery  is  carried  in  England,  enables 
one  man  to  do  the  work  of  150.  The  cotton  manufacture  would 
have  required,  half  a  century  ago,  50,000,000  men,  and  the  power 
now  employed  in  it  alone  in  Great  Britain  exceeds  the  manufac- 
turing industry  of  all  the  rest  of  Europe  collectively.  The  other 
most  important  branches  are  woollen,  silk,  linen,  and  hardware. 

The  interior  navigation  of  England  is  justly  regarded  as  one 

25  *  *  359 


294  £  U  R  O  T  E . 

of  the  prime  sources  of  her  prosperity.  Till  the  middle  of  last 
century,  the  making  of  canals  did  not  enter  into  the  system  of 
English  economy.  In  1755  was  formed  the  Sankey  canal,  a 
line  of  12  miles,  to  supply  Liverpool  with  coal.  Since  that  time, 
near  200,000,000  dollars  have  been  expended  in  this  object.  The 
canals,  in  total  length,  amount  to  more  than  2600  miles.  The 
longest  extends  from  Liverpool  on  the  Mersey,  to  Leeds  on  the 
Humber,  130  miles,  affording  a  navigation  for  vessels  of  30  tons 
completely  across  the  island. 

The  Grand  Junction  Canal  extends  from  the  neighbourhood 
of  London,  to  the  Oxford  Canal ;  it  is  93  miles  long.  The  Grand 
Trunk  is  a  part  of  the  same  communication ;  it  is  93  miles  in 
length.  The  Ashby  de  la  Zouch  Canal  is  40  miles  long,  extending 
from  the  Coventry  Canal  to  an  iron  railway.  The  Bridgewater 
Canal  is  40  miles  in  length,  and  extending  from  the  Mersey, 
divides  into  two  branches,  one  terminating  at  Manchester,  and 
the  other  at  Pennington.  This,  with  the  Trent  and  Mersey  Canal, 
forms  a  communication  of  70  miles;  16  miles  of  this  canal  are 
under  ground  among  the  mountains.  The  canals  of  England 
communicate  with  one  another,  and  afford  immense  facilities  for 
internal  commerce. 

Rail-roads  form  another  contrivance,  by  which  the  conveyance 
of  goods  is  wonderfully  facilitated.  That  between  Manchester 
and  Liverpool  extends  31  miles,  and  is  carried  over  63  bridges. 
The  entire  cost  was  about  4,000,000  dollars  ;  but  the  intercourse 
has  been  so  extensive  as  to  afford  an  ample  remuneration.  The 
Cromford  and  High  Peak  railway  is  carried  over  the  high  moun- 
tainous district  of  Derbyshire,  connecting  the  two  canals  which 
bear  these  names.  Its  length  is  33  miles,  carried  over  50  bridges, 
and  rising  to  a  level  of  992  feet  above  the  Cromford  Canal.  The 
entire  expense  has  not  exceeded  900,000  dollars.  A  rail-road  is 
now  in  progress  from  Liverpool  and  Birmingham  to  London,  a 
distance  of  upwards  of  200  miles. 

The  English  have  long  held  a  distinguished  rank  among  the 
nations  of  the  world,  and  are  noted  for  their  intelligence,  activity, 
and  integrity  of  character.  It  is  but  little  more  than  a  century 
since  they  began  to  be  distinguished  as  a  manufacturing  and  com- 
mercial people,  yet  they  have  already  outstripped  other  European 
nations  in  mechanical  ingenuity,  in  industry,  and  in  mercantile 
enterprise.  The  enormous  increase  of  capital,  and  the  substitu- 
tion of  machinery  for  human  labour  in  most  of  their  manufac- 
tures, seem  likely  at  no  distant  period  to  produce  a  total  change 
in  the  condition  of  British  society. 

In  no  part  of  the  world,  perhaps,  is  wealth  more  unequally 
distributed  than  in  England  ;  and  seldom  do  the  cottages  of  the 


ENGLAND. 


Lincoln  Cathedral. 

Lincoln  Cathedral  is  524  feet  long  :  the  principal  tower  is  300  feet  high.  Its  great  bell,  Tom 
of  Lincoln,  perhaps  the  largest  in  England,  is  23  feet  in  circumference.  Before  the  Reformation, 
this  cathedral  wag  the  most  wealthy  in  the  kingdom. 


York  Cathedral,  or  Minster. 

York  Cathedral  is  a  splendid  specimen  of  Gothic  architecture.  It  is  526  feet  long  ,  and  is 
distinguished  for  the  richness  and  elegance  of  its  ornamental  work.  This  edifice  was  set  on 
fire  in  1829  by  a  maniac,  and  considerably  injured,  but  the  damage  has  been  since  fully  repaired. 


Winchester  Cathedral. 

Winchester  Cathedral  was  founded  under  the  Saxon  kings  ;  subsequently  enlarged,  and 
finally  finished  in  the  sixteenth  century.  Some  of  its  parts  are  constructed  in  a  highly  ornn- 
mented  style  of  architecture,  and  are  much  esteemed. 

2P  361 


EUROPE. 


Wells  Cathedral  ranks  with  the  finest  religious  edifices  in  England. 
Saxon  and  partly  in  the  Gothic  style ;  and  is  about  600  years  old. 


It  is  built  partly  in  the 


Chapel  of  King's  College,  at  Cambridge. 

The  Chapei  of  King's  College  was  built  between  the  reigns  of  Henry  VI.  and  Henry  VIII. 
It  is  noted  for  the  splendid  effect  produced  by  its  twelve  windows  of  painted  glass,  each  of 
which  is  fifty  feet  high. 


Canterbury  Cathedral. 

Canterbury  Cathedral  is  of  early  origin  and  great  extent.  In  Catholic  times  it  was  revered  an 
the  Bhrine  of  the  murdered  Becket;  was  visited  by  crowds  of  pilgrims,  and  enriched  with 
valuable  offerings— of  the  latter  it  was  deprived  by  Henry  VIII.,  at  the  time  of  the  Reformation. 

388 


ENGLAND.  295 

poor  contrast  so  strongly  with  the  mansions  of  the  rich.  Costly 
and  splendid  buildings  are  spread  over  various  parts  of  the  king- 
dom, and  many  of  the  parks  and  country-seats  of  the  nobility 
and  gentry  display  a  princely  magnificence. 

Though  luxury  and  corruption  exist  to  a  considerable  extent 
in  certain  portions  of  English  society,  yet  the  great  mass  of  the 
people  are  distinguished  by  sound  morals.  Benevolence  may  be 
considered  a  striking  feature  in  the  national  character,  and  in  no 
country  are  there  so  many  associations  for  charitable,  benevolent, 
and  religious  purposes.  Some  of  the  most  barbarous  practices 
of  civilized  nations  have  been  abolished  by  the  efforts  of  British 
philanthropists. 

Great  exertions  are  made  by  various  religious  associations,  to 
spread  the  Christian  religion  and  civilization  among  the  heathen. 
Many  million  copies  of  the  sacred  scriptures  have  been  distributed, 
and  the  circulation  of  religious  tracts  has  been  carried  to  a  vast 
extent.  Numerous  missionaries  have  been  sent  to  various  parts 
of  the  earth,  who  have  carried  the  glad  tidings  of  redemption  to 
many  ignorant  and  benighted  nations,  who  now  are  more  or  less 
rejoicing  in  the  light  of  the  gospel,  and  in  the  attendant  blessings 
of  civilization  and  peace. 

The  literary  institutions  and  learned  men  of  this  country,  are 
highly  distinguished  ;  and  no  language  excels  the  English  in  all 
the  treasures  of  poetry,  eloquence,  philosophy,  and  science.  In 
the  fine  arts  the  English  have  been  less  successful  than  some 
other  nations,  and  cannot  compare  with  the  ancient  Greeks  or 
the  modern  Italians.  In  the  popular  amusements  there  is  much 
that  is  gross  and  barbarous:  horse-racing,  cock-fighting,  bull- 
baiting,  and  boxing,  are  favourites ;  hunting  and  other  out-door 
sports,  are  generally  pursued. 

The  institutions  for  public  education  in  England  are  extensive 
and  splendidly  endowed.  The  two  universities  of  Oxford  and 
Cambridge  are  not  only  the  wealthiest,  but  among  the  most  an- 
cient in  Europe.  The  London  University  and  King's  College 
have  been  recently  instituted.  The  schools  of  Eton,  Westmin- 
ster, St.  Paul's,  Winchester,  Harrow,  and  Rugby,  are  nearly  on 
the  same  scale  as  our  colleges.  There  are  multitudes  of  other 
schools,  public  and  private,  and  in  them  all  a  long-continued, 
systematic,  and  thorough  course  of  instruction  is  given. 

Though  no  general  system  has  been  adopted  for  the  instruc- 
tion of  the  great  mass  of  the  people,  yet  the  children  of  the  poorer 
classes,  by  means  of  Sunday  schools  and  the  efforts  of  their 
parents,  are  generally  taught  to  read  and  write.  Immense  num- 
bers of  volumes,  consisting  of  the  works  of  the  best  English 
authors,  are  circulated  in  every  part  of  the  kingdom,  in  the  form 

363 


296  EUROPE. 

of  weekly  or  monthly  pamphlets,  at  a  very  cheap  rate.  Even 
!he  poorest  mechanics  and  labourers  are  in  the  habit  of  spending 
a  considerable  part  of  their  leisure  in  the  perusal  of  these  publi- 
cations. 

The  Episcopal  Protestant  religion  is  that  established  by  law, 
and  the  king  is  the  head  of  the  church.  There  are  two  arch- 
bishops, and  twenty-five  bishops.  The  archbishop  of  Canterbury 
js  called  the  Primate  of  all  England,  and  his  rank  is  next  below 
the  royal  family.  The  Archbishop  of  York  is  called  the  Primate 
of  England.  The  bishops  have  some  temporal  authority,  and  the 
ecclesiastical  jurisdiction  extends  to  all  questions  of  births,  mar- 
riages, deaths,  probate  of  wills,  and  delinquencies  of  the  inferior 
clergy. 

The  clergy  of  the  established  church  are  a  learned  and  pious 
body,  though  many  individuals  there  are  in  it,  who  have  neither 
learning  nor  religion.  The  dissenters  are  numerous,  and  have 
many  ministers  of  great  learning  and  purity  of  mind.  The  dis- 
senters are  chiefly  Methodists,  Baptists,  and  Quakers.  The 
Catholics  are  numerous,  and  have  several  colleges  and  convents. 

England  is  divided  into  40  counties. 

The  small  islands  attached  to  England  are  neither  numerous 
nor  important.  Man,  30  miles  in  length  by  12  in  breadth,  com- 
prises a  considerable  extent  of  level  territory ;  but  rises  in  the 
interior  into  high  mountains,  among  which  Snowfell,  nearly  2000 
feet  high,  stands  conspicuous.  Population,  40,000.  Castletown, 
the  capital,  is  the  neatest  town  in  the  island.  Douglas,  however, 
is  of  superior  importance,  and  has  attracted  a  great  number  of 
English  settlers. 

The  Isle  of  Wight  lies  on  the  southern  coast,  and  is  celebrated 
for  its  striking  and  peculiar  scenery.  It  is  a  fertile  and  well  in- 
habited island.    Population,  40,000.    Newport  is  the  chief  town. 

The  Scilly  Isles,  situated  at  some  distance  from  the  western 
extremity  of  Cornwall,  are  tenanted  by  2000  inhabitants,  who 
raise  some  grain,  but  depend  chiefly  upon  fishing,  piloting,  &c. 

Jersey,  Guernsey,  and  Alderney,  with  Sark,  form  a  group 
sometimes  called  the  Norman  Isles.  The  climate  is  mild  and 
agreeable,  and  the  soil  generally  fertile.  The  inhabitants  amount 
to  50,000.  Jersey  is  so  abundant  in  orchards,  that  cider  forms 
the  chief  article  of  exportation.  St.  Helier,  the  capital  of  Jersey, 
is  a  handsome  town. 

London,  the  metropolis  of  the  British  Empire,  is,  no  doubt,  the 
wealthiest  and  most  populous  city  in  the  world.  It  is  situated  on 
both  sides  of  the  river  Thames,  about  60  miles  westward  from  the 
North  Sea.  It  is  considered  to  include  three  divisions  ;  the  City 
proper  in  the  east,  Westminster  in  the  west,  and  Southwark  on  the 


ENGLAND. 


£■   -v^ 


Lancaster  Caslle,  Lancashire. 

Lancaster  Castle  was  an  important  fortress  in  feudal  times.    It  is  of  great  extent :  and  lias 
been  converted  into  a  well-arranged  prison. 


Alnwick  Castle,  the  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Northumberland. 

This  celebrated  castle,  noted  in  the  border  wars  between  the  English  and  Scots,  covers  five 
acres,  and  is  defended  by  sixteen  towers.  A  million  of  dollars  has  been  expended  in  converting 
it  from  a  feudal  fortress  to  one  of  the  most  splendid  of  modern  mansions. 


Warwick  Castle,  Warwickshire. 

Warwick  Castle  wns  erected  by  the  Earl  of  Warwick,  who,  in  the  lourteenth  century,  so 
highly  distinguished  himself  in  the  battles  of  Poir.ticrs  and  Cressy.  The  interior  has  been  fitted 
np  in  the  modern  manner,  at  a  f-reat  expense,  and  in  a  magnificent  style. 

2F«  365 


EUROPE. 


Norwich  Cathedral. 

Norwich  Cathedral,  founded  in  the  eleventh  century,  is  411  feet  long.    Its  architecture  is  in 
the  broad  and  massive  Saxon  style. 


Blenheim  House,  anciently  Woodstock,  a  royal  residence. 

Blenheim  House  and  Park  were  granted  by  Parliament,  in  Queen  Anne's  time,  to  the  Duke 
of  Marlborough,  as  a  reward  for  the  victory  obtained  by  him  over  the  French,  in  1704,  at  Bleo- 
heim,  in  Germany. 


Kenilworth  Castle,  Warwickshire,  now  in  ruins. 

Kenilworth,  a  royal  caslle,  was  beBtowed  by  Queen  Elizabeth  on  her  favourite  Leicester  % 
whose  residenco  and  tho  splendid  fetes  he  gave  in  honour  of  hU  royal  mistress,  are  so  well  de- 
scribed by  Sir  Walter  Scott. 

366 


ENGLAND.  '  29? 

south  side  of  the  river.  The  buildings  are  generally  of  brick. 
The  streets  in  some  parts  are  wide,  and  few  are  so  narrow  as 
not  to  admit  two  carriages  abreast.  At  the  west  end,  they  are 
mostly  straight,  and  sufficiently  broad  for  five  or  six  carriages. 
Here  are  the  residences  of  the  nobility  and  the  rich.  In  the  city, 
or  the  central  and  oldest  part,  the  streets  are  narrow  and  crooked, 
but  here  the  great  business  of  London  is  transacted.  The  east 
end  is  occupied  by  shops,  victualling-houses,  and  people  connected 
with  commerce.  Here  are  immense  timber-yards,  docks,  and 
magazines. 

London  contains  a  great  number  of  squares :  the  handsomest 
is  Grosvenor  Square,  an  area  of  six  acres,  and  containing  an 
equestrian  statue  of  George  II.  The  buildings  around  it  are  the 
most  superb  in  London.  The  largest  square  is  that  called  Lin- 
coln's Inn  Fields,  which  occupies  a  space  just  equal  to  that  co- 
vered by  the  great  pyramid  of  Egypt.  The  finest  public  walks 
are  at  the  west  end ;  Green  Park,  Hyde  Park,  St.  James's  Park, 
and  Regent's  Park,  are  beautiful  fields  and  gardens,  ornamented 
with  trees  ;  these  are  the  resort  of  thousands  who  walk  for  exer- 
cise or  pleasure.  These  parks  are  very  extensive.  Hyde  Park 
contains  394  acres,  and  in  the  afternoon  of  Sunday  is  thronged 
oy  crowds  of  fashionable  people  who  pour  along  the  promenades, 
like  the  ebbing  and  flowing  tide.  In  Regent's  Park  is  an  immense 
edifice  called  the  Coliseum,  in  which  may  be  seen  a  panorama 
of  London  as  viewed  from  the  dome  of  St.  Paul's.  The  gardens 
of  the  Zoological  Society  are  also  in  this  park.  They  are  ele- 
gantly laid  out,  and  contain  an  interesting  collection  of  rare  ani- 
mals from  all  parts  of  the  world. 

The  churches  of  London  have  the  most  prominent  and  impos- 
ing share  in  its  architectural  splendour.  St.  Paul's  Cathedral  is 
the  most  magnificent  edifice  in  the  city,  but  is  pent  up  in  a  nar- 
row area,  and  surrounded  by  shops  and  buildings  of  a  mean 
appearance.  The  interior  of  the  cathedral  does  not  equal  its 
noble  exterior.  It  would  be  little  else  than  an  immense  vault 
with  heavy  columns,  were  it  not  relieved  by  monumental, statuary. 
Westminster  Abbey  is  one  of  the  noblest  existing  monuments  ot 
Gothic  architecture.  It  has  a  vast,  airy,  and  lofty  appearance, 
which  inspires  feelings  of  awe  and  veneration. 

The  city  of  Westminster,  a  north-eastern  suburb  of  London, 
contains  many  splendid  modern  churches,  almost  all  in  the  classic 
style.  London  has  few  public  edifices,  compared  to  its  great  size 
and  wealth.  Westminster  Hall  was  one  a  palace:  here  the  kings 
of  England  are  crowned,  and  here  the  parliament  hold  their  sit- 
tings.    It  has  the  largest  hall  without  pillars  in  Europe.     St 


90S  EUROPE. 

James's  Palace  is  an  ill-looking  brick  building,  but  contains  spa 
cious  and  splendid  apartments. 

The  Tower  is  a  vast  inclosure  upon  the  river.  It  contains 
several  streets,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  wall  and  ditch.  The 
monument,  at  the  foot  of  London  bridge,  is  a  fluted  doric  column, 
in  a  bad  situation :  it  is  202  feet  high,  and  commemorates  the 
great  fire  of  London.  „  The  Bank  of  England,  in  the  heart  of  the 
city,  is  a  vast  and  splendid  pile,  covering  eight  acres.  Somerset 
House,  in  the  Strand,  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  splendid 
edifices  in  the  city. 

There  are  six  bridges  over  the  Thames :  of  these,  Waterloo 
bridge  is  built  of  granite,  and  Southwark  and  Vauxhall  bridges 
of  iron.  A  more  remarkable  object  is  the  Tunnel,  a  passage 
under  the  river  at  a  point  where  a  bridge  would  be  detrimental 
to  the  navigation.  This  work  was  performed  by  sinking  a  per- 
pendicular shaft  near  the  river,  and  working  horizontally  under 
the  bottom  of  the  Thames. 

The  city  has  13  theatres,  of  which  Drury  Lane,  Covent  Gar- 
den, and  the  King's  theatre  or  Italian  opera,  are  among  the  first 
in  Europe.  It  has  147  hospitals;  16  schools  of  medicine;  as 
many  of  law  ;  5  of  theology  ;  18  public  libraries  ;  300  elementary 
free  schools;  14  prisons;  75  newspapers,  9  of  which  publish 
51,000  papers  daily,  and  3  weekly  papers  publish  114,000  every 
week.  15,000  vessels  are  employed  in  the  foreign  and  coast- 
ing trade;  1500  carriages  a  day  leave  the  city  at  stated  hours; 
4000  wagons  are  employed  in  the  country  trade :  the  annual 
commerce  of  the  city  is  estimated  at  650,000,000  dollars. 

London  is  the  principal  literary  emporium  of  the  kingdom. 
Almost  all  books  of  importance  are  there  printed  and  published, 
and  thence  distributed  over  the  kingdom,  forming  a  considerable 
branch  of  commerce.  The  annual  value  sold  is  estimated  at  from 
5,000,000  to  10,000,000  dollars.  The  population  of  the  city  is 
estimated  at  from  1,500,000  to  1,800,000. 

Liverpool,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mersey,  is  an  important  com- 
mercial city,  enjoying  a  vast  trade  by  sea,  and  communicating 
with  all  parts  of  the  interior  by  canals  and  rail-roads.  The  city 
stretches  along  the  east  bank  of  the  river  three  miles,  with  a 
breadth  of  one  mile.  It  is  irregularly  built,  but  the  public  build- 
ings are  elegant.  The  Exchange  is  perhaps  the  most  splendid 
structure  which  a  mercantile  community  ever  raised  from  its  own 
resources:  it  cost  100,000  pounds,  and  is  double  the  size  of  the 
Royal  Exchange  of  London.  The  Town  Hall  is  another  noble 
edifice.  In  the  west  of  the  city  are  quays  and  docks  of  great 
extent.  The  largest  dock  will  contain  100  ships  afloat.  The 
commerce   of   the   place    employs    10,000    vessels,   and   pays 


ENGLAND 


View  of  St.  Paul'8  Cathedral,  London. 
St.  Paul's  Cathedral  is,  next  to  St.  Peter's  at  Rome,  the  most  splendid  ecclesiastical  edifice 
in  Christendom.    It  was  finished  in  1710,  and  was  35  years  in  building.    It  is  510  feet  in  length, 
382  in  breadth,  and  340  high. 


.Somerset  House,  London. 


New  London  Bridge. 
New  London  Bridge  was  finished  in  1831.    It  was  seven  years  in  building,  and  is  928  feet  long. 

369 


EUROPE. 


Waterloo  Bridge,  London. 

Waterloo  Bridge  is  built  of  granite,  and   cost  live  million  dollars.    It  has  nine  arches,  each 
120  feet  span.    This  bridge  is  considered  une  of  the  finest  specimens  of  masonry  in  Europe. 


Westminster  Abbey,  London. 

Westminster  Abbey  was  built  about  800  years  ago.    Here  the  sovereigns  of  Great  Britain 
are  crowned  ;  and  here  also  are  the  monuments  of  many  celebrated  characters. 


Greenwich  Hospital,  on  the  Thames,  five  miles  below  London. 

Greenwich  Hospital  was  once  a  royal  palace,  but  is  now  appropriated  to  the  use  of  disabled 
and  tii:ed  seamen.  Here  3000  are  supported,  and  pensions  are  paid  to  5400  more  from  tho  funds 
of  llie  institution.    Sixpence  sterling  a  month  is  levied  from  every  British  sailor  for  its  support. 

370    . 


ENGLAND. 


Hampton  Court. 

Hampton  Court,  thirteen  miles  from  London,  wa3  built  by  Cardinal  Wolsey,  in  the  reign  of 
Henry  VIII,,  and  presented  by  him  to  his  sovereign.  It  is  one  of  the  largest  of  the  English 
palace9.  The  picture-gallery  is  celebrated  :  besides  many  fine  paintings,  it  contains  Raphael'a 
cartoons. 


Windsor  Castle,  twenty-two  miles  west  of  London. 


Windsor  Castle  was  built  by  William  the  conqueror,  and  has  been  the  residence  of  the 
sovereigns  of  England  for  700  years.  It  is  a  magnificent  structure  ;  and  has  a  large  park,  to- 
gether with  a  forest  of  fifty  miles  in  circuit,  attached  to  it. 


Dover  Castle. 
Dover  Castle  is  one  of  the  mo9t  ancient  in  Ergland.    It  is  a  spacious  and  strong  fortification, 

371 


and  is  Bituated  on  a  rock  320  feet  high. 


EUROPE. 


View  of  the  City  of  Bath. 


ENGLAND.  299 

1 8,000,000  dollars  to  the  revenue  in  duties.  Population,  165,000. 
The  most  important  branch  of  the  trade  of  Liverpool  is  that  with 
the  United  States,  of  which  cotton  is  the  grand  staple. 

Manchester,  thirty-three  miles  from  Liverpool,  is  the  centre 
of  the  cotton  manufacture  of  Great  Britain,  and  is  the  greatest 
manufacturing  town,  in  that  line,  in  the  world.  Two  canals,  and 
the  rail-road  to  Liverpool,  facilitate  the  trade  of  this  city  with  the 
interior  and  the  coast.     Population,  182,000. 

Birmingham,  situated  in  the  centre  of  England,  is  noted  for  its 
immense  manufactures  of  arms,  sheet-iron,  hardware,  jewelry, 
&c.  Articles  in  all  the  various  metals  are  made  to  a  vast  extent, 
from  steam-engines  to  buttons  and  pins.  It  is  connected  with 
London  by  a  rail-road,  and  has  147,000  inhabitants. 

Leeds  is  the  principal  seat  of  the  woollen  manufactures  and 
trade  of  the  kingdom.  Population,  123,000.  In  the  vicinity  of 
Leeds  are  Bradford,  Halifax,  Wakefield,  and  Huddersfield,  towns 
with  from  40,000  to  20,000  inhabitants,  nearly  all  engaged  in 
the  woollen  manufacture. 

Sheffield  has  been  long  known  for  the  excellence  of  its  cutlery 
and  plated  goods,  which  comprise  an  almost  endless  variety  of 
articles  in  both  branches.     Population,  60,000. 

Bristol  is  an  ancient  city,  and  was,  formerly,  next  to  London 
in  the  extent  of  its  commerce.  The  foreign  trade  is  still  con- 
siderable ;  and  its  glass,  sugar,  soap-houses,  distilleries,  brass- 
works,  pin  factories,  &c,  are  numerous.    Population,  117,000. 

Hull,  situated  on  the  Humber  river,  has  the  greatest  inland 
trade  of  any  port  in  the  kingdom,  and  has  long  been  extensively 
engaged  in  the  whale  fishery  business.     Population,  36,000. 

Newcastle  is  renowned  for  its  collieries  and  coal  trade :  the 
latter  employs  upwards  of  40,000  men,  and  the  exports  amount 
to  2,500,000  tons.     Population,  57,000. 

Norwich,  an  ancient  city,  is  noted  for  its  castle  and  cathedral ; 
the  latter  is  one  of  the  finest  ecclesiastical  edifices  in  the  king- 
dom.    Population,  61,000. 

Plymouth  is  one  of  the  greatest  naval  arsenals  of  Britain,  and 
is  noted  for  its  breakwater,  which  is  a  vast  mole,  a  mile  in  length  : 
it  required,  in  its  formation,  2,000,000  tons  of  stone,  and  cost 
more  than  5,000,000  dollars.     Population,  75,000. 

Portsmouth  is  the  most  important  naval  station  in  the  king- 
dom. Its  magazines  and  docks  are  the  most  perfect  in  the  world, 
and  its  fortifications  are  considered  impregnable.  The  spacious 
road  of  Spithead,  at  this  place,  is  capable  of  sheltering  1000 
ships  of  the  line.     Population,  50,000. 

Bath  has  long  been  famous  for  its  medicinal  waters,  which  at- 
tract hither  crowds  of  invalids,  and  thousands  of  dissipated 
idlers.     It  occupies  a  fine  situation  upon  a  rising  ground,  and  is 

2G  373 


300  EUROPE. 

esteemed  the  handsomest  city  in  England.  It  has  many  beauti- 
ful promenades,  and  a  magnificent  cathedral.  Being  a  place  of 
mere  amusement,  a  large  part  of  its  population  is  migratory. 
Population,  38,000. 

Oxford  contains  the  most  famous  university  in  England,  con- 
sisting of  24  colleges.  These  buildings,  with  17  churches,  and 
numerous  other  academical  structures,  are  surrounded  with  groves, 
gardens,  avenues  of  majestic  trees,  and  a  variety  of  winding 
streams.  To  these  are  added  the  incessant  pealing  of  innume- 
rable bells,  and  the  multitude  and  mystical  variety  of  academic 
dresses  ;  all  combining  to  produce  the  most  striking  effect  upon 
a  stranger.     Population,  21,000. 

Cambridge,  like  Oxford,  owes  its  celebrity  to  its  university, 
which  has  13  colleges.     Population,  21,000. 


WALES. 

Wales  is  a  territory  situated  to  the  westward  of  England, 
which,  though  united  to  that  kingdom  by  early  conquest,  still 
retains  the  title  of  a  separate  principality,  and  possesses  a  distinct 
national  character. 

The  general  aspect  of  this  country  is  bold,  romantic,  and 
mountainous.  It  consists  of  ranges  of  lofty  eminences  and  im. 
pending  crags,  intersected  by  numerous  and  deep  ravines,  with 
extensive  valleys,  and  affording  endless  views  of  wild  mountain 
scenery. 

The  chief  mountains  of  Wales  are  Snowdon,  3571  feet  in 
height,  and  Cader  Idris  3550  :  the  general  elevation  of  the  others 
is  from  1000  to  3000  feet  above  the  sea.  The  rivers  are  the 
Severn,  Wye,  Conway,  Towy,  Dee,  &c.  The  soil  of  Wales  is 
less  fertile  and  cultivated  than  that  of  England,  but  the  produc- 
tions are  the  same. 

Manufactures  are  nearly  confined  to  the  article  of  flannel, 
which  has  always  been  a  fabric  of  the  Welsh,  and  in  which  they 
excel.  The  mineral  productions  of  Wales  are  very  abundant, 
and  consist  principally  of  lead,  copper,  iron,  and  coal :  the  latter 
is  found  in  almost  every  quarter  of  the  country,  and  is  employed 
either  for  domestic  purposes,  or  in  fusing  or  refining  the  metallic 
ores.  Vast  quantities  of  iron,  chiefly  for  rail-roads,  are  imported 
into  the  United  States  from  this  region. 

This  country,  previous  to  the  year  1283,  was  governed  by  its 
own  kings ;  but  since  that  time  it  has  been  united  to  England, 
and  the  oldest  son  of  the  king  of  England  is  styled  Prince  of 
Wales.     The  Welsh  are  a  Celtic  race,  the  descendants  of  the 


WALES. 


Snowdon,  the  highest  mountain  in  Wales. 


Caerphilly  Castle. 

Caerphilly  Castle,  now  in  ruins,  was  of  great  extent.    It  is  stated  to  have  been  a  mile  and  a 
quarter  in  circuit ;  and  capable  of  containing  a  garrison  of  20,000  men. 


Conway  Castle,  North  Wales. 

Conwny  Castle  was  one  of  the  strongest  in  Britain.  It  was  erected  by  Edward  I.,  about  the 
mne  of  the  conquest  of  Wales,  for  the  purpose  of  curbing  the  spirit  of  the  natives  of  that 
country.    The  outside  walls  arc  entire,  but  the  interior  U  in  ruins. 

375 


EUROPE. 


Caernarvon  Castle. 
Caernarvon  Castle  was  built  by  Edward  I.,  near  600  years  ago.    His  son,  Edward  II.,  Ibe 
first  Prince  of  Wales,  was  born  in  it. 


Holyhead,  a  small  rocky  island  wost  of  Anglesea,  and  a  noted  landmark. 
— \ — cs 


Summit  of  Cader  Idris  Mountain. 

Cader  Idris,  one  of  the  highest  mountains  in  Wales,  has  several  small  lakes  on  its  i 
also  near  its  summit. 


Menai  Bridge,  which  connects  North  Wales  and  the  island  of  Anglesea. 

In  this  bridge,  a  level  roadway,  100  feet  above  the  water,  is  suspended  by  rods  of  iron  from 
immense  iron  chains  that  pass  over  stone  piers.  The  whole  of  the  iron  employed  weighs  near 
SOU  tons.    Tho  centre  opening  of  the  bridge  is  560  foot  in  extent. 

376 


WALES.  301 

ancient  Britons,  who  in  their  mountain  recesses  sought  refuge 
from  the  destroying  sword  of  the  Saxons,  which  completely  dis- 
possessed them  of  the  low  country  of  England. 

Edward  I.  annexed  Wales  to  the  English  crown,  but  was  com- 
pelled to  erect  many  strong  castles  to  hold  the  Wesh  in  subjec- 
tion ;  and  notwithstanding  these  curbs,  they  frequently  broke  into 
insurrection.  For  the  last  300  years,  however,  they  have  been 
as  peaceful  as  their  English  neighbours. 

The  people  of  Wales  have  retained  their  native  language,  which 
is  widely  different  from  the  English,  but  similar  to  that  of  the 
Scotch  Highlanders.  They  are  extremely  national,  and  though 
their  country  is  not  fertile,  yet  they  are  greatly  attached  to  their 
native  hills.  They  are  proud  of  their  early  origin,  and  are  fond 
of  tracing  back  their  pedigree  to  a  remote  period.  In  manners 
and  customs  they  differ  essentially  from  their  immediate  neigh- 
bours, whom  they  are  apt  to  despise  as  a  race  of  yesterday,  and 
destitute  of  that  antiquity  which  they  value  so  highly. 

Strong  ties  of  friendship  subsist  between  the  land-owners  and 
their  tenants ;  manifested,  on  one  side,  by  indulgence  and  pro- 
tecting kindness ;  on  the  other,  by  a  profound  veneration  for  the 
representatives  of  the  ancient  chiefs  of  their  race.  The  Welsh 
have  many  superstitions,  mixed  with  much  genuine  religious  feel- 
ing. They  are  hardy,  active,  hospitable,  kind-hearted ;  only  a 
little  hasty  and  quarrelsome.  Population  about  1 ,000,000.  Coun- 
ties, 12. 

The  isle  of  Anglesea,  on  the  coast  of  Wales,  is  separated  from 
that  country  by  the  Menai  Strait,  over  which  a  bridge,  formed  of 
immense  iron  chains,  is  erected.  The  island  is  rich  in  minerals, 
especially  copper  and  lead  ;  also,  coal  and  marble.  Population, 
45,000.     Beaumaris  is  the  chief  town. 

Merthyr-Tydvil,  situated  in  the  iron-mine  region  of  Glamor- 
ganshire, has  become,  from  a  mere  village,  the  most  populous 
place  in  Wales  :  population,  22,000.  Swansea  has  also  risen  to 
some  importance,  from  the  iron  and  copper  works  with  which  it 
is  surrounded.  Coal  is  likewise  largely  exported.  Its  pleasant 
situation  has  made  it  an  extensive  resort  for  sea-bathing,  and  led 
to  the  erection  of  many  elegant  buildings:  population,  14,000. 
Caermarthen,  situated  on  the  Towy,  which  admits  to  it  vessels 
of  300  tons,  is  one  of  the  most  flourishing  and  best-built  towns  in 
Wales:  population,  10,000.  Caernarvon  is  a  handsome,  well- 
built  place  :  its  chief  ornament  is  the  castle,  a  stately  edifice  built 
by  Edward  I.:  population,  8000.  Some  other  of  the  chief  towns 
in  Wales  are,  Holywell,  with  9000;  Mold,  8000;  Pembroke, 
7000 ;  Cardiff,  7000 ;  and  Brecknock,  6000  inhabitants. 
26  2G*  an 


302  EUROPE. 


SCOTLAND. 


Scotland  occupies  the  northern  part  of  the  island  of  Great 
Britain,  and  is  celebrated  for  the  grandeur,  wildness,  and  beauty 
of  its  scenery.  It  is  everywhere  surrounded  by  the  ocean, 
except  on  the  south-ea3t,  where  it  is  joined  to  England.  It  is 
280  miles  in  length,  and  from  90  to  130  miles  in  breadth,  and 
contains  30,000  square  miles. 

This  country  comprises  two  great  divisions,  the  Highlands  and 
the  Lowlands  :  the  former  comprehends  nearly  the  whole  of  Scot- 
land lying  north  of  the  firths  of  Forth  and  Clyde.  It  contains 
within  its  recesses  a  primitive  people,  who  in  dress,  manners,  and 
language,  differ  essentially  from  the  inhabitants  of  the  other  divi- 
sion. The  Lowlands  includes  the  most  southern  and  smallest, 
but  the  most  productive  and  best  peopled  part  of  Scotland. 

Among  the  Scottish  mountains,  the  most  considerable  are  the 
Grampians,  a  name  which  is  given  very  generally  to  all  those 
which  cover  the  surface  of  the  Highlands.  Several  of  these 
exceed  the  altitude  of  4000  feet.  Ben  Nevis  rises  to  the  height 
of  4379  feet,  and  is  the  most  elevated  mountain  in  Great  Britain. 

The  rivers  of  Scotland  are  not  so  much  distinguished  for  their 
length  or  magnitude,  as  for  the  pastoral  scenery  through  which 
they  wind  their  early  course,  and  for  the  large  firths  or  bays 
which  they  form  at  their  junction  with  the  sea.  The  Forth  is 
the  largest  river,  and  forms  at  its  mouth  the  great  firth  on  which 
the  capital  of  Scotland  is  situated.  The  Tay  is  noted  for  its  fine 
salmon  ;  the  Clyde  for  its  splendid  falls  ;  and  the  Tweed,  the  Spey, 
the  Dee,  and  others,  for  the  celebrity  they  have  acquired  from 
the  writings  of  the  various  poets  who  have  described  their  beau- 
ties. 

Lochs  form  a  characteristic  feature  of  Scotland  ;  many  of  them 
are  long  arms  of  the  sea,  running  up  into  the  heart  of  the  moun- 
tains. Among  these,  Loch  Lomond  is  pre-eminent.  The  tra- 
veller admires  its  gay  and  numerous  islands,  its  wooded  promon- 
tories and  bays,  and  the  high  mountain  barrier  at  its  head.  Loch 
Katrine,  in  a  smaller  compass,  presents  a  singular  combination 
of  romantic  beauty.  Loch  Tay,  enclosed  by  the  loftiest  of  the 
Grampians,  presents  alpine  scenery  on  the  grandest  scale ;  while 
at  Inverary,  Loch  Fyne  unites  the  pomp  of  art  with  that  of 
nature.  The  long  chain  of  Lochs  Linnhe,  Lochy,  and  Ness, 
stretching  diagonally  across  Scotland,  comprises  much  fine 
scenery,  and  has  afforded  facilities  for  making  a  navigable  com- 
munication between  the  Atlantic  Ocean  and  the  North  Sea. 

The  products  of  the  soil  in  this  country  are  generally  the  same 
as  in  England.     Oats  are  the  principal  crop,  except  in  the  most 


SCOTLAND 


Loch  Lomond,  Dumbartonshire. 

Loch  Lomond  ig  the  largest  lake  in  Britain  ;  it  is  noted  for  the  beauty  of  the  surrounding 
scenery,  which  is  considered  to  be  unequalled  in  Scotland. 


Falls  of  Fyers,  Inverness-shire. 

The  Falls  of  Fyers  are  the  most  celebrated  in  Scotland.    The  lower  fill  is  'J12  feet  high,  and 
the  upper  one  70  feet. 


Falls  of  Bruar,  Perthshire. 


379 


EUROPE. 


Noss  Holm,  in  the  Shetland  Islands. 

Noss  Holm  is  a  high  perpendicular  rock,  much  frequented  by  wild  fowl.    The  natives 
and  repass  to  and  from  it  by  means  of  ropes,  as  represented  in  the  engraving. 


Fingal's  Cave,  in  the  Island  of  Staffa,  one  of  the  Hebrides 


Ruins  of  the  Cathedral,  Chapel,  and  Nunnery  of  Iona. 

Iona,  one  of  the  smnllest  islands  in  the  Hebrides,  became,  as  early  as  the  sixth  century,  a 
famous  seat  of  learnine,  and  afterwards  the  head  of  the  Christian  religion  in  Scotland.  In 
Cathedral,  Chapel,  and  Nunnery,  the  ruins  of  which  still  remain,  were  destroyed  at  the  time  of 
the  Reformation.  Sixty-one  kings  of  Scotland,  France,  and  Norway,  are  said  to  have  been 
interred  here. 

380 


SCOTLAND.  303 

fertile  districts,  where  wheat  is  grown  of  good  quality.  Potatoes 
are  cultivated  somewhat  extensively,  and  in  some  places  hemp. 

Both  the  commerce  and  manufactures  of  Scotland  have  grown 
into  importance  since  the  union  with  England.  Commerce  has 
flourished  chiefly  since  the  middle  of  the  last  century.  Greenock 
and  Aberdeen  are  the  most  important  commercial  places. 

The  manufactures  consist  of  cotton,  woollen,  linen,  iron,  hats, 
paper,  sail-cloth,  pottery,  and  small  quantities  of  most  of  the  arti- 
cles made  in  England.  At  Carron,  in  the  southern  part  of  the 
kingdom,  are  the  most  important  iron-founderies  in  Great  Britain. 
They  employ  2000  workmen,  and  cast  above  4000  cannon  annu- 
ally. The  total  value  of  the  yearly  manufactures  of  Scotland  is 
estimated  at  about  75,000,000  dollars. 

The  whale  and  herring  fisheries  are  considerable  sources  of 
wealth.  The  whale  ships  are  principally  employed  in  the  north- 
ern seas.  The  number  of  herring  taken  on  the  coast  is  immense: 
the  fishermen  go  in  small  vessels  called  busses.  Salmon,  taken 
in  all  the  considerable  rivers,  and  kept  fresh  by  being  packed  in 
ice,  chiefly  supplies  the  London  market. 

In  the  formation  of  canals,  peculiar  obstructions  from  the  rug- 
gedness  of  the  surface,  have  been  experienced  ;  and  hence  they 
have  never  become  very  numerous.  The  Great  Canal  admits 
vessels  of  considerable  size  to  pass  from  the  Firth  of  Forth  to 
that  of  Clyde,  and  thus  unites  the  Northern  and  Atlantic  Oceans. 
Branches  to  Glasgow  and  other  places,  have  been  advantageously 
opened. 

The  Union  Canal,  completed  at  an  expense  of  nearly  2,000,000 
dollars,  connects  the  Great  Canal,  near  its  eastern  point,  with 
Edinburgh,  by  a  line  of  30  miles  through  a  country  very  rich  in 
coal  and  lime.  The  Caledonian  Canal,  uniting  the  chain  of  lakes 
which  crosses  Scotland  diagonally,  allows  even  ships  of  war  to 
pass  from  the  east  coast  into  the  Atlantic.  It  was  finished  in 
1822,  at  an  expense  of  nearly  5,000,000  dollars,  entirely  de- 
frayed by  government.  The  gates  of  the  locks  are  of  iron  :  the 
expense  of  each  lock  was  about  45,000  dollars.  The  canal  is 
50  feet  broad ;  length  22  miles,  with  40  miles  of  lake  navigation. 

The  inhabitants  of  Scotland  amount  to  2,500,000,  and  are 
composed  of  two  distinct  races,  the  Highlanders  and  Lowlanders: 
the  former  inhabit  the  Highlands  or  northern  part  of  the  king- 
dom, and  the  Lowlanders  occupy  the  southern  division.  The 
people  of  the  Highlands  speak  a  peculiar  language,  called  the 
Gaelic,  though  the  English  now  is  pretty  generally  understood 
amongst  them. 

The  Highlanders  retain  the  remnants  of  a  national  costume 
peculiar  to  themselves  ;  the  tartan,  a  mixture  of  woollen  and  linen 


304  EUROPE. 

cloth,  adorned  with  brilliant  stripes  variously  crossing  each  other, 
and  marking  the  distinctions  of  the  clans  ;  the  kilt,  or  short  petti- 
coat, worn  by  the  men,  the  stockings  fastened  below  the  knee, 
which  is  left  bare ;  and  the  bonnet,  which  in  another  shape  is 
also  still  worn  by  the  shepherds  of  the  border. 

The  divisions  of  Scotland  are  into  shires  or  counties,  of  which 
there  are  33 :  of  these,  17  are  in  the  Lowlands,  and  the  remain- 
ing 16  in  the  Highlands. 

The  Scotch,  as  a  nation,  are  grave,  serious,  and  reflecting ; 
but  at  the  same  time  enterprising  and  persevering.  They  are  in 
general  better  educated  and  more  moral  and  religious  in  their 
habits,  than  any  other  people  in  Europe.  Learning,  after  its 
revival  in  modern  times,  was  cultivated  in  this  country  with  pecu- 
liar ardour ;  but  it  is  particularly  since  the  middle  of  the  last  cen- 
tury, that  the  writers  of  Scotland  have  become  celebrated  :  many 
have  distinguished  themselves  in  various  branches  of  literature, 
and  some  of  them  have  been  amongst  the  most  illustrious  philoso- 
phers, historians,  and  poets  of  Great  Britain.  The  most  popular 
fictitious  and  periodical  writers  of  t\xn  present  generation,  have 
also  been  natives  of  Scotland. 

In  religion  the  people  of  Scotland  have  always  shown  an  ex- 
emplary attention,  and  they  entered  upon  the  reformation  with  a 
spirit  and  energy  beyond  most  of  the  other  Protestant  nations. 
The  established  church  or  kirk,  is  Calvinistic  in  its  doctrines  and 
Presbyterian  in  its  government,  and  is  under  the  superintendence 
of  the  general  assembly,  a  body  consisting  of  representatives  from 
the  different  presbyteries.  About  one-fourth  of  the  inhabitants 
of  Scotland  are  dissenters,  as  Episcopalians,  Seceders,  &c,  and 
there  are  some  Roman  Catholics  in  the  Highlands  and  large  cities. 

Education  amongst  the  great  body  of  the  people  is  more  gene- 
ral in  Scotland  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  British  dominions : 
every  parish  has  its  respective  school,  in  which  knowledge  can 
be  obtained  at  a  reasonable  rate.  Private  schools  are  also  nume- 
rous, and  in  all  the  principal  towns  there  are  academies  and  other 
high  seminaries  of  learning.  The  universities  of  Edinburgh, 
Glasgow,  St.  Andrews,  and  Aberdeen,  are  all  celebrated,  par- 
ticularly the  two  first. 

The  public  libraries  are  not  rich.  That  belonging  to  the  advo- 
cates or  barristers  of  Edinburgh,  contains  upwards  of  150,000 
volumes,  among  which  there  are  ample  materials,  both  printed 
and  in  manuscript,  for  elucidating  the  national  history.  The 
university  library  is  half  as  large  ;  and  those  of  Glasgow,  King's 
College  Aberdeen,  and  St.  Andrew's,  are  highly  respectable. 
Each  of  these  universities  can  claim  a  copy  of  every  new  work. 

Scotland  has  a  native  music,  simple  and  pathetic,  expressive 


SCOTLAND.  305 

of  rural  feelings  and  emotions,  to  which  she  is  fondly  attached. 
The  recreations  of  the  higher  ranks  are  nearly  the  same  as  in 
England.  Dancing  is  practised  with  peculiar  ardour,  especially 
by  the  Highlanders,  who  have  favourite  national  steps  and  move- 
ments. 

The  islands  appendant  on  Scotland,  form  one  of  its  most  con- 
spicuous features.  They  may  be  divided  into  the  islands  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Clyde  ;  the  Hebrides,  or  Western  Islands  ;  and  those 
of  Orkney  and  Shetland.  The  islands  of  the  Clyde  are  chiefly 
Bute  and  Arran,  with  the  smaller  ones  of  the  Cumbrays  and 
Ailsa. 

The  Hebrides  or  Western  Islands  lie  on  the  western  coast 
of  Scotland.  They  are  about  200  in  number.  The  largest  is 
Lewis,  87  miles  long.  The  next  in  size  are  Skye,  Mull,  and 
Islay,  South  Uist,  and  Jura.  Most  of  them  are  rocky  and  bar- 
ren, with  hardly  a  single  tree,  or  even  a  bush  upon  them.  The 
most  westerly  of  the  Hebrides  is  St.  Kilda  :  it  is  small  and  rocky, 
yet  inhabited.  Its  shores  are  the  resort  of  vast  varieties  of  sea- 
fowl,  which  the  islanders  pursue  at  immense  hazards,  by  swing- 
ing with  ropes  from  the  perpendicular  cliffs. 

There  are  87  of  these  islands  inhabited,  and  several  under 
good  cultivation,  producing  tolerable  crops  of  grain,  pulse,  and 
potatoes.  The  inhabitants  are  about  70,000  in  number.  Their 
only  articles  of  trade  are  horned  cattle,  sheep,  and  fish. 

One  of  the  smallest  of  these  islands,  named  Staffa,  is  remark- 
able for  a  singular  basaltic  cavern,  called  Fingal's  Cave,  227  feet 
in  length,  and  42  wide.  The  entrance  resembles  a  gothic  arch, 
and  the  floor  of  the  cave  is  covered  with  water.  The  walls  of 
the  interior  are  formed  of  ranges  of  basaltic  columns,  irregularly 
grouped.  This  natural  architecture  is  said  to  surpass,  in  gran- 
deur and  magnificence,  the  most  splendid  artificial  temples  and 
palaces  in  the  world. 

At  the  northern  extremity  of  Scotland  lie  the  Orkneys,  about 
70  in  number,  but  less  than  half  of  them  are  inhabited.  They 
are  rocky,  and  have  but  little  vegetation  besides  juniper,  wild 
myrtle,  and  heath.  The  soil  is  boggy  or  gravelly  ;  some  of  the 
islands  contain  iron  and  lead.  The  sea  in  this  neighbourhood  is 
very  tempestuous.  In  June  and  July,  the  twilight  which  con- 
tinues throughout  the  night  is  sufficiently  strong  to  enable  the 
inhabitants  to  read  at  midnight.  The  population  is  about  30,000. 
They  have  some  manufactures  of  linen  and  woollen,  and  a  trade 
in  cattle,  fish,  oil,  and  feathers.  Vast  numbers  of  seafowl  fre- 
quent 'he  rocky  cliffs  of  these  islands,  and  one  of  the  chief  em- 
ployments of  the  inhabitants  is  bird-catching. 

The  Shetland  Islands  lie  about  60  miles  north-east  of  the  Ork- 

26*  383 


306  EUROPE. 

neys.  They  have  a  wild  and  desolate  appearance ;  but  17  of 
them  are  inhabited.  Their  vegetation  is  still  more  scanty  than 
that  of  the  Orkneys,  and  their  soil,  for  the  most  part,  is  marshy. 
The  shores  are  broken  and  precipitous,  and  excavated  by  the  sea 
into  natural  arches  and  deep  caverns.  From  October  to  April, 
perpetual  rains  fall,  storms  beat  against  the  shores,  and  the  in- 
habitants are  cut  off  from  all  communication  with  the  rest  of  the 
world ;  but  the  aurora  borealis  exhibits,  at  this  season,  a  bright- 
ness equal  to  that  of  the  full  moon.  The  population  is  about 
28,000  ;  the  people  live  by  fishing  and  the  manufacture  of  coarse 
woollens. 

Edinburgh,  the  capital  of  Scotland,  stands  upon  the  southern 
shore  of  the  Firth  of  Forth,  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  sea.  Its 
situation  is  remarkably  picturesque.  It  occupies  three  high  ridges 
of  land,  and  is  surrounded  on  all  sides,  except  the  north,  by  naked, 
craggy  rocks.  The  middle  ridge  is  the  highest,  and  on  either 
side  is  a  deep  ravine.  The  more  ancient  part  of  the  city  occu- 
pies the  two  southern  ridges.  High  street  runs  along  the  middle 
eminence,  in  nearly  a  straight  direction,  for  about  a  mile,  and 
exhibits  a  very  grand  prospect.  With  the  exception  of  the  prin- 
cipal avenues,  the  other  streets  of  what  is  called  the  Old  Town 
are  only  narrow,  dirty  lanes,  among  houses  some  of  them  ten 
and  eleven  stories  high. 

The  New  Town  presents  quite  a  different  aspect.  It  is  built 
on  the  northern  ridge,  and  its  streets  and  squares  are  not  sur- 
passed in  regularity  and  elegance  in  any  part  of  the  world.  It 
communicates  with  the  old  town  by  a  bridge,  and  an  immense 
mound  of  earth  crossing  the  deep  loch  or  ravine  between  them. 
The  Castle  of  Edinburgh  is  an  ancient  fortress  on  a  rugged  rock, 
mounting  abruptly  to  the  height  of  200  feet.  Holyrood  House, 
for  many  centuries  the  residence  of  the  kings  of  Scotland,  is  a 
quadrangular  edifice  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  city.  In  the  cen- 
tre of  Edinburgh  is  a  vast  pile,  comprising  several  edifices  around 
Parliament  Square,  which  contain  a  number  of  large  libraries. 

The  university  is  celebrated  both  as  an  institution  for  teaching, 
and  a  nursery  for  eminent  men  ;  the  number  of  students  is  up- 
wards of  2000.  Edinburgh  has  its  Royal  Society  for  physical 
and  literary  researches,  its  antiquarian  and  horticultural  socie- 
ties, an  institution  for  the  promotion  of  the  fine  arts,  and  an 
academy  of  painting.  This  city  is  chiefly  supported  by  its  courts 
of  justice,  whose  jurisdiction  extends  over  all  Scotland.  A  great 
proportion  of  the  inhabitants  are  lawyers,  and  the  literary  talent 
for  which  the  city  is  renowned,  has  gained  it  the  appellation  of 
the  Modern  Athens.     Population,  in  1831,  136,000. 

Leith  is  the  sea-port  of  Edinburgh ;  it  was  formerly  about  two 


View  of  Edinburgh. 


Cathedral  of  Glasgow. 

The  Cathedral  of  Glasgow,  built  700  years  ago,  is  the  most  entire  specimen  of  Gothic  archi- 
tecture in  Scotland.    It  is  284  feet  long,  and  65  feet  broad.    The  spire  is  220  feet  high 


Ruins  of  St.  Andrew's  Cathedral,  Fifeshire. 


St.  Andrew's  Cathedral,  destroyed  at  the  time  of  the  Reformation,  was  one  of  the  finest 
ecclesiastical  structures  in  Scotland,  and  the  metropolitan  church  of  the  kingdom.  The  scanty 
ruins  that  remain  attest  the  elegance  of  its  architecture. 

2H  385 


EUROPE. 


Ruins  of  Loch-Leven  Castle,  Kinross-shire. 

Loch  Leven  Castle,  situated  on  a  small  island  in  Loch-Leven,  is  famed  in  Scottish  history  for 
the  imprisonment  of  Mary  Queen  of  Scots,  and  her  romantic  and  adventurous  escape. 


Dunottar  Castle,  fifteen  miles  south  of  Aberdeen,  Kincardineshire. 

Dunottar  Castle  was  formerly  considered  to  be  impregnable.    The  regalia  of  Scotland  were 
once  deposited  here  for  safe  keeping. 


Ruins  of  Melrose  Abbey,  Roxburghshire. 

Melrose  Abbey,  built  about  700  years  ago,  was  the  finest  Gothic  structure  in  Scotland.    It  is 
258  feet  long,  and  138  wide.   These  ruins  are  much  admired,  and  are  often  visited  by  travellers. 

386 


SCOTLAND. 


Stirling  Castle,  Stirlingshire. 


Stirling  Castle  was  in  the  feudal  ages  oftentimes  the  residence  of  the  kings  of  Scotland,  and 
the  scene  of  some  of  the  most  memorable  events  in  Scottish  history. 


Dumbarton  Castle,  Dumbartonshire. 


Bothwell  Castle,  Lanarkshire. 


Dumbarton  Castle  is  one  of  the  oldest  in  Scotland :  it  dates  back  to  the  days  of  the  ancient 
Britons;  and  before  the  invention  of  fire-arms  was  held  to  be  impregnable. 

Bothwell  Castle,  on  the  Clyde,  was  formerly  one  of  the  chief  seats  of  the  Earls  of  Douglas, 
and  is  noted  in  Scottish  history. 


Dun  Dornadilla,  Sutherlandshire. 

Dun  Dornadilla  is  the  remains  of  one  of  those  nncient  circular  lowers,  called  Duns,  whose 
ruins  are  so  frequently  met  with  in  the  northern  parts  of  Scotland. 

387 


EUROPE. 


Linlithgow  Palace,  Linlithgowshire,  eighteen  miles  west  of  Edinburgh. 

Linlithgow  Palace  was  often  the  residence  of  the  kings  of  Scotland,  and,  when  entire,  was  a 
magnificent  edifice.    Mary  Queen  of  Scots  was  born  here  in  the  year  1542. 


Drumlanrig  Castle,  the  residence  of  the  Dukes  of  Buccleugh. 

Drumlanrig  Castle,  on  the  river  Nith,  in  the  south  of  Scotland,  is  a  Bplendid  edifice.   It  is 
surrounded  by  extensive  parks  and  plantations. 


Glammis  Castle,  Angus-shire. 


% 


Inverary  Castle,  the  residence  of  the  Dukes  of  Argyle,  Argyleshire. 


383 


IRELAND.  307 

miles  distant  from  that  city,  but  is  now  connected  with  it  by  con- 
tinuous ranges  of  buildings.  The  harbour  has  been  much  im- 
proved by  art,  but  is  not  accessible  to  large  ships,  except  at  cer- 
tain times.  The  commerce  carried  on  here  is  considerable. 
Population,  26,000. 

Glasgow  is  the  largest  city  in  Scotland,  and  owes  its  prosperity 
chiefly  to  its  manufactures.  It  stands  upon  the  Clyde,  and  con- 
tains a  large  number  of  handsome  buildings,  mostly  of  modern 
construction.  The  streets  are  generally  spacious  and  well  paved. 
The  cathedral  is  a  massy  building,  and  the  most  entire  specimen 
of  Gothic  architecture  which  the  furious  zeal  of  the  reformers 
left  standing  in  Scotland.  In  Glasgow  and  the  neighbourhood 
are  32,000  cotton  looms  and  300  steam  machines  in  manufacto- 
ries, founderies,  &c.  The  general  aspect  of  the  town  is  rendered 
gloomy  by  the  coal-smoke,  which  has  blackened  the  buildings, 
and  hangs  in  dingy  clouds  over  the  city.     Population,  202,000. 

Paisley,  seven  miles  from  Glasgow,  is  the  third  town  for  size 
and  commerce.  It  has  extensive  manufactures,  and  a  population 
of  57,000.  Greenock,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Clyde,  is  the  out-port 
of  Glasgow ;  and  its  prosperity,  as  well  as  that  of  Glasgow,  is 
of  very  recent  date.  Its  harbour  is  commodious,  and  its  trade 
extends  to  every  part  of  the  world.     Population,  28,000. 

Aberdeen  is  a  handsome  city  on  the  eastern  coast,  with  a  uni- 
versity, and  considerable  commerce  and  manufactures :  popula- 
tion, 58,000.  Perth,  on  the  Tay,  is  the  most  regularly  built  of 
all  the  cities  of  Scotland,  and  is  surrounded  with  beautiful  scenery : 
population,  20,000.  Inverness,  the  capital  of  the  North  High- 
lands, is  well  built,  and  enjoys  nearly  all  the  trade  of  the  northern 
part  of  the  kingdom:  population,  15,000. 


IRELAND. 

Ireland  is  a  fine  fertile  island,  lying  west  of  Great  Britain, 
from  which  it  is  separated  by  St.  George's  Channel  and  the  Irish 
Sea.  The  climate  is  mild  and  moist,  which  produces  a  beautiful' 
and  continued  verdure,  and  has  led  to  its  being  called  by  the 
poetical  appellations  of  the  Emerald  Isle  and  Green  Erin. 

The  surface  of  the  country,  though  in  general  level,  is  diver- 
sified with  numerous  hills  and  mountains  ;  these  do  not,  however, 
form  ranges  of  any  great  extent,  but  lie  chiefly  in  short  detached 
ridges :  those  in  the  vicinity  of  the  celebrated  Lake  of  Killarney, 
are  the  best  known,  and  the  most  elevated.  Ghurane  Tuel,  the 
highest,  rises  to  the  height  of  3400  feet  above  the  sea. 

The  Shannon  is  without  a  rival  among  rivers  in  the  three  king- 

2H  *  338 


308  EUROPE. 

doms.  It  rises  far  in  the  north,  from  Lough  Allen,  in  the  pro- 
vince of  Connaught,  and  has  a  course  of  200  miles,  throughout 
the  whole  of  which  it  is  more  or  less  navigable.  There  are  also 
the  Barrow,  Boyne,  Foyle,  Bann,  Blackwater,  &c.  The  other 
rivers  are  rather  numerous  than  of  long  course;  but  they  almost 
all  terminate  in  wide  estuaries  and  loughs,  which  diffuse  through 
Ireland  the  means  of  water  communication,  and  afford  a  multi- 
plicity  of  spacious  and  secure  harbours. 

Lakes  or  loughs  are  a  conspicuous  feature  in  Ireland,  where 
this  last  name,  like  the  similar  one  used  in  Scotland,  is  in  many 
instances  applied  to  arms  of  the  sea.  Lough  Neagh  is  the  largest 
lake  in  the  United  Kingdom,  covering  nearly  100,000  acres. 
Lough  Erne,  Lough  Corrib,  &c.  include  a  great  variety  of  rich 
and  ornamented  scenery.  Lough  Foyle,  Lough  Swilly,  and 
Belfast  Lough,  are  properly  bays.  Connaught  has  several  exten- 
sive lakes.  That  of  Killarney,  in  the  south,  is  famed,  not  for  its 
extent,  but  for  the  singular  grandeur  and  beauty  of  its  shores. 

Ireland  was  once  covered  with  forests,  which  are  now  replaced 
by  immense  bogs.  These  form  a  remarkable  feature,  character- 
istic of  the  country.  They  afford  abundant  supplies  of  peat,  used 
by  the  inhabitants  for  fuel.  From  their  depths  are  also  taken 
quantities  of  wood  in  complete  preservation,  which  indicate  that 
these  bogs  are  the  remains  of  the  ancient  forests.  The  skins  of 
animals  and  men  that  have  been  swallowed  up  in  them,  have 
been  found  converted  into  a  sort  of  leather  by  the  tanning  mat- 
ter which  the  moisture  contains. 

Coal  is  the  most  abundant  mineral.  It  is  found  in  Kilkenny, 
in  the  south.  Marble  and  slate  occur  in  the  same  quarter.  Iron 
was  formerly  produced  in  many  parts,  but  at  present  few  or  no 
mines  are  worked.  Copper,  silver,  and  gold,  have  also  been 
found  in  small  quantities. 

The  greatest  curiosity  in  Ireland  is  the  Giants'  Causeway.  It 
is  an  astonishing  work  of  nature,  and  is  situated  on  the  north- 
east coast  of  the  island.  It  consists  of  millions  of  perpendicular 
columns  of  stone,  rising  from  200  to  400  feet  above  the  water's 
edge.  The  columns  are  generally  five  and  seven-sided,  and  are 
divided  into  lengths  of  about  18  inches,  yet  set  upright,  one  upon 
another,  and  so  nicely  fitted  together,  that  a  knife-blade  can 
scarcely  be  inserted  at  the  joints.  At  Fairhead,  on  the  same 
coast,  there  are  ranges  of  basaltic  columns,  not  articulated  like 
those  of  the  Giants'  Causeway,  but  reaching  the  enormous  height 
of  100  and  150  feet  in  single  blocks.  In  the  neighbourhood  there 
are  some  remarkable  caverns. 

Agriculture  is  very  backward  in  this  country.  The  farmers 
are  generally  not  proprietors  of  the  soil,  and  studiously  avoid 


IRELAND. 


The  Giants'  Causeway,  County  Antrim. 


Lake  of  Killarney,  County  Kerry. 

The  Lake  of  Killarney,  so  celebrated  for  the  beauty  of  its  scenery,  consists  properly  of  three 
lakes,  the  largest  of  which  is  about  six  miles  long  and  three  broad.  This  lake  is  annually  visited 
by  numerous  travellers. 


Eagles'  Nest,  Lake  of  Killarney. 

The  Eaclos'  Nest  is  a  high  craggy  rock,  on  the  borders  of  Lake  Killarney,  remarkable  for 
the  extraordinary  echoes  it  produces.    Eagles  build  their  nesls  amid  its  rugged  steeps. 

391 


EUROPE. 


Mucruss  Abbey,  County  Kerry. 

Mucruss  Abbey,  on  the  east  side  of  Lake  Killarney,  is  an  ancient  and  interesting  ruin.   It  is 
about  100  feet  in  length ;  and  is  regarded  as  a  holy  edifice  by  the  neighbouring  peasantry. 


Dunluce  Castle,  on  the  coast  of  the  County  Antrim. 

Dunluce  is  an  ancient  castle,  now  in  ruins,  which  occupies  the  top  of  a  high  and  almost 
insulated  rock.    It  was  once  a  place  of  great  strength,  and  was  considered  impregnable. 


Glendalough,  County  Wicklow. 
Glendalough  is  a  retired  valley,  surrounded  by  high  hills.    It  contains  the  ruins  of  some  re- 
markable monuments,  attributed  to  St.  Kevin,  a  great  patron  saint  of  the  seventh  century. 
This  place  was  long  celebrated  as  a  seat  of  learning  and  religion. 


IRELAND.  309 

any  permanent  improvement  of  the  land,  lest  the  rent  should  be 
raised.  Wheat  is  not  generally  cultivated,  and  what  is  raised  is 
often  inferior.  Barley  is  now  common,  but  oats  are  raised  in  a 
tenfold  proportion  to  that  of  any  other  grain.  The  Irish  staff  of 
life,  however,  is  potatoes.  This  root  furnishes  to  the  poor  the 
greatest  part  of  their  sustenance.  The  dairy  is  the  best-managed 
part  of  Irish  husbandry.     Flax  is  extensively  cultivated. 

The  most  important  manufacture  is  that  of  linen,  which  has 
flourished  for  300  years,  but  is  now  on  the  decline.  The  cotton 
manufacture  has  been  recently  introduced,  and  is  increasing. 
The  distilleries  of  Ireland  are  extensive,  and  a  considerable  quan- 
tity of  whiskey  is  made  and  exported.  The  commerce  of  this 
country  consists  chiefly  in  the  exports  of  the  agricultural  products 
to  other  parts  of  the  British  Empire.  To  England  alone,  they 
amounted,  in  1831,  to  the  value  of  50,000,000  dollars,  compris- 
ing grain  of  various  kinds  ;  cattle,  beef,  pork,  butter,  &c,  besides 
linen.  The  trade  to  foreign  countries  is,  however,  greatly  infe- 
rior. 

Ireland  is  still  denominated  a  distinct  kingdom,  but  it  is  governed 
by  a  viceroy  appointed  by  the  sovereign,  called  the  Lord  Lieu- 
tenant of  Ireland.  There  is  also  an  Irish  chancellor,  a  secretary 
of  state,  commander  of  the  forces,  and  an  attorney -general.  The 
island  was  incorporated  with  the  kingdom  of  Great  Britain,  in 
1800.  There  is  now  no  separate  parliament,  but  Ireland  is 
represented  by  32  peers  and  100  members  of  the  House  of  Com- 
mons, in  the  parliament  of  Great  Britain.  The  citizens  of  Ire- 
land are  entitled  to  the  same  privileges  with  those  of  England,  in 
all  matters  of  commerce  and  provisions  under  treaties. 

There  is  one  university  in  Ireland,  styled  Trinity  College  or 
Dublin  University :  it  has  about  400  students,  and  is  an  institu- 
tion of  a  very  high  character.  At  Maynooth  and  Carlow  there 
are  Roman  Catholic  Colleges,  and  a  Jesuits'  College  at  Clongows. 
The  education  of  the  people  has  been  much  neglected  until  re- 
cently :  great  efforts  have  been  lately  made  by  private  benevo- 
lence to  extend  the  means  of  instruction  to  the  poor,  though  with 
but  partial  success. 

The  arts  are  not  in  a  flourishing  state  in  Ireland,  principally 
from  the  want  of  the  encouragement  that  the  residence  of  the  rich 
proprietors  would  give.  The  useful  arts  are  far  lower  than  in 
England  or  Scotland,  and  the  ornamental  ones  are  little  culti- 
vated. A  taste  for  music  is  common,  and  no  man  is  more  wel- 
come in  an  Irish  house  than  a  piper  or  a  harper.  Many  of  the 
old  national  airs  are  sweet,  but  they  are  not  so  widely  spread  as 
those  of  Scotland. 

Ireland  has  contributed  her  full  share  to  the  literature  and  sci- 


310  EUROPE. 

ences  of  the  United  Kingdom,  and  there  are  no  names  more  cele- 
brated than  those  of  Burke,  Swift,  Goldsmith,  Sheridan,  and 
Moore.  The  great  national  bent  of  genius  seems  to  be  towards 
wit  and  eloquence,  and  this  appears  not  only  in  the  distinguished 
men,  but  in  the  mass  of  the  people ;  for  the  very  beggars  pursue 
their  vocation  with  a  union  of  these  two  qualities  that  is  often 
irresistible. 

The  general  religion  is  the  Catholic,  though  the  established 
church  is  that  of  England.  Four-fifths  of  the  inhabitants  are 
Catholics,  and  the  other  fifth  is  composed  principally  of  Episco- 
palians, Presbyterians,  Methodists,  and  Baptists.  The  established 
church  has  four  archbishops,  and  22  bishoprics.  There  are  33 
Catholic  archbishops  and  bishops,  1500  parish  priests,  3000 
curates,  and  984  benefices,  averaging  mor<j  than  6000  souls  each. 
In  every  parish  there  is  a  chapel.  The  established  church  is 
chiefly  supported  by  the  payment  of  a  composition  for  tithes,  and 
the  Catholic  church  by  contributions,  and  fees  for  marriages, 
burials,  masses,  &c 

The  numbers  of  the  different  religious  denominations  are  as 
follows  : — Roman  Catholics,  6,450,000  ;  members  of  established 
Church,  870,000 ;  Presbyterians,  &c.  680,000. 

In  the  eastern  part  of  the  island  the  people  are  chiefly  of  Eng- 
lish, and  in  the  north  of  Scottish  descent,  but  speak  the  English 
language,  and  are  mostly  Protestants ;  but  in  the  north  and  west 
the  original  Celtic  race  predominates.  The  latter  use  the  Irish 
language,  which  approaches  very  nearly  to  that  of  the  Scottish 
Highlanders,  and  in  many  districts  they  are  wholly  ignorant  of 
the  English.  The  native  Irish  are  chiefly  Catholics,  and  the 
Anglo-Irish  Protestants.     The  population  is  about  8,000,000. 

The  Irish  people  are  generous,  quick-witted,  hospitable,  and 
cheerful ;  they  are,  however,  easily  offended,  and  prone  to  resent- 
ment. Duels  are  not  rare  among  the  gentry,  nor  less  dangerous 
appeals  to  force  unfrequent  among  the  lower  classes.  The  great 
mass  of  the  latter  live  in  a  state  of  abject  poverty  and  wretched- 
ness :  they  are  degraded  by  the  oppression  of  the  great  landlords 
and  their  agents.  The  payment  of  church  tithes  and  a  multitude 
of  taxes,  swallows  up  their  earnings  and  discourages  the  spirit 
of  industry.  Beggars  are  numerous,  and  notwithstanding  the 
natural  fertility  of  Ireland,  many  of  the  poor  have  perished  with 
hunger. 

Ireland  is  divided  into  four  provinces,  Ulster,  Leinster,  Mun- 
ster,  and  Connaught.     These  are  subdivided  into  32  counties. 

Dublin,  the  capital  of  Ireland,  disputes  with  Edinburgh  and 
Bath  the  reputation  of  being  the  most  beautiful  city  in  the  empire. 
It  is  delightfully  situated  at  the  bottom  of  a  bay  on  the  eastern 


IRELAND. 


St.  Patrick's  Cathedral,  Dublin. 

St.  Patrick's  Cathedral  is  a  venerable  structure,  which  stands  in  a  low  and  ruinous  part  of 
the  city.    It  was  built  in  the  year  1190;  decorated  with  a  steeple  in  1370,  and  again  in  1750. 


The  Four  Courts,  Dublin. 

The  Four  Law  Courts,  situated  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Liffey,  form  one  of  the  fineBt  stroc- 
tures  in  Dublin.  It  consists  of  a  square  of  140  feet,  presenting  a  front  of  six  Corinthian  pillars, 
supporting  a  circular  lantern  and  magnificent  dome. 


The  Royal  Exchange,  Dublin. 

The  Royal  Exchange  forms  a  square  of  100  feet.    Its  principal  front  has  a  highly-decorated 
portico  of  six  Corinthian  columns. 

395 


EUROPE. 


The  Bank  of  Ireland,  formerly  the  Parliament  Houses,  Dublin. 

This  building  was  erected  between  the  years  1729  and  1739.    The  portico  is  147  feet  in  length, 
supported  by  lofty  Ionic  columns  ;  the  whole  covering  an  acre  and  a  half  of  ground. 


Carrick-a-Rede,  on  the  coast  of  the  County  Antrim. 


Carrick-a-Rede,  a  high  rocky  island,  is  separated  from  the  main  land  by  a  deep  chasm  60 
feet  wide ;  over  this  a  rope  bridge  is  thrown  which  enables  visiters  to  pass  in  safety. 


<CC 


Powerscourt  Waterfall,  County  Wicklow. 

Powerscourt  Waterfall  is  a  highly  interesting  object,  descending  360  feet  down  a  steep  hill, 
amid  thick  overhanging  woods. 


FRANCE.  311 

coast,  about  a  mile  from  the  shore,  and  is  divided  by  the  little 
river  Liffey  into  two  equal  parts.  The  city  is  nearly  square, 
being  about  two  and  a  half  miles  in  extent  each  way.  The 
houses  are  generally  of  brick,  and  the  streets  irregular  ;  but  those 
that  run  parallel  with  the  river,  are  for  the  most  part  uniform 
and  spacious.  In  the  more  modern  part,  they  are  from  60  to  90 
feet  wide.  There  are  several  fine  squares,  one  of  which,  called 
Stephen's  Green,  occupies  27  acres,  and  has  a  magnificent  ap- 
pearance. Sackville  street  is  one  of  the  finest  in  Europe.  No 
city,  in  proportion  to  its  size,  has  a  greater  number  of  elegant 
buildings. 

This  city  has  a  considerable  trade  by  sea,  and  the  canals 
which  extend  from  this  point  to  different  parts  of  the  island.  Few 
places  exhibit  a  greater  contrast  between  wealth  and  poverty 
than  Dublin.  The  chief  part  of  the  suburbs,  and  some  streets 
in  the  city,  are  the  abodes  of  thousands,  who  live  in  the  most  ab- 
ject poverty  and  wretchedness.     Population,  227,000. 

Cork,  the  great  southern  emporium  of  Ireland,  has  a  popula- 
tion of  107,000,  being,  in  point  of  wealth  and  magnitude,  the 
second  city  in  the  island.  It  has  a  good  harbour,  and  a  flourish- 
ing trade  in  the  export  of  salt  provisions.  The  greater  part  of 
the  city  is  built  upon  an  island.  The  public  buildings  are  simple 
in  their  architecture,  but  large  and  convenient. 

Limerick,  upon  the  Shannon,  has  some  manufactures,  and  a 
large  export  trade :  population,  60,000.  Londonderry,  on  the 
north-west  coast,  is  an  ancient  place,  with  a  fine  gothic  cathedral : 
it  carries  on  some  commerce  with  America  and  the  West  Indies : 
population,  10,000.  Belfast  is  the  grand  emporium  of  the  north 
of  Ireland,  and  commerce  is  the  main  source-  of  its  wealth.  The 
linen  fabric  of  the  north,  together  with  oats,  oatmeal,  and  provi- 
sions, are  the  principal  exports.     Population,  53,000. 


FRANCE. 

France  is  a  great  and  powerful  kingdom,  placed,  as  it  were, 
in  the  centre  of  the  civilized  world,  and  for  several  centuries  dis- 
tinguished by  the  conspicuous  part  which  it  has  acted  in  the 
affairs  of  Europe.  Its  population,  military  power,  vast  resources, 
and  active  industry,  render  it  one  of  the  most  important  and 
interesting  countries  on  the  globe. 

France  is  bounded  north  by  the  English  Channel  and  Belgium; 
east  by  Germany,  Switzerland,  and  Italy ;  south  by  the  Mediter- 

21  397 


312  EUROPE, 

ranean  Sea  and  Spain ;  and  west  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  Its 
greatest  length  from  north  to  south  is  590  miles,  and  its  breadth 
is  about  the  same.     It  contains  205,000  square  miles. 

The  surface  of  this  very  extensive  territory  is  in  general  level, 
although  it  borders  and  is  encroached  upon  by  the  greatest  moun- 
tain ranges  of  Europe.  The  Alps  cover  the  full  half  of  its  east- 
ern frontier.  The  Pyrenees  range  along  the  southern  border. 
On  the  east,  where  France  reaches  to  the  Rhine,  are  the  Vosges ; 
and  in  the  centre  and  south,  the  chain  of  Auvergne  and  the  Ce- 
vennes  :  these  last  are,  however,  of  moderate  height.  But  by  far 
the  greater  part  of  France,  including  the  whole  north  and  east, 
is  one  widely  extended  plain,  which  yields  in  high  perfection  all 
the  fruits  and  products  of  the  temperate  zone. 

The  rivers  of  France,  though  not  of  the  first  magnitude,  are 
extensive  and  commodious.  Traversing  almost  every  part  of  the 
kingdom,  they  afford  ample  means  of  internal  navigation ;  and 
the  broad  plains  which  border  on  them  yield  the  most  luxuriant 
harvests.  The  Loire  is  the  principal.  The  other  great  rivers 
are  the  Rhone,  Garonne,  Seine,  and  the  Rhine  ;  those  of  second- 
ary rank  are  the  Somme,  Adour,  Var,  Moselle,  Isere,  Marne, 
Meuse,  &c. 

France,  with  regard  to  internal  economy,  is  one  of  the  richest 
and  most  flourishing  countries  in  the  world.  In  point  of  industry 
she  ranks  third  after  Britain  and  the  Netherlands  ;  while  she 
possesses  a  greater  extent  and  more  natural  advantages  than 
either  of  those  great  seats  of  commerce  and  manufacture. 

This  country  yields  in  abundance  the  most  solid  and  useful  of 
all  metals,  iron.  There  are  about  400  forges  in  the  kingdom,  pro- 
ducing upwards  of  160,000  tons  of  metal,  valued  at  15,000,000 
dollars.  Coal  is  abundant,  but  the  beds  lie  at  a  distance  from 
the  sea,  and  are  little  worked.  There  were  formerly  many  cop- 
per-mines, but  they  are  now  chiefly  abandoned.  Lead  and  man- 
ganese abound  in  quantities.  Silver,  cobalt,  nickel,  cinnabar, 
and  arsenic,  are  sometimes  found. 

Agriculture  is  the  most  flourishing  branch  of  French  industry, 
yet  it  is  not  in  so  advanced  a  state  as  in  Great  Britain.  The  vine 
occupies  the  chief  attention  of  the  French  husbandman.  The 
vineyards  of  France  yield  250  different  sorts  of  wine  ;  they  occu- 
py 5,000,000  acres,  and  their  average  produce  is  estimated  at 
900,000,000  gallons.  Wheat,  rye,  and  potatoes  are  raised  in 
the  north ;  olives  in  the  south ;  and  Indian-corn  and  tobacco  in 
various  quarters.  Beets  are  cultivated  for  making  sugar,  and 
many  million  pounds  are  produced  annually.  The  rent  of  land 
is  very  low,  and  the  farms  are  generally  small.  A  large  portion 
of  the  population  of  this  country  are  proprietors  of  the  soil. 


FRANCE. 


Olives. 


The  Olive  tree  grows  forty  or  fifty  feet  high ;  the  fruit  is  about  the  size  of  a  plum.  It  con- 
tains an  oily  pulp,  from  which  the  well-known  sweet  oil  is  made.  Of  this,  immense  quantities 
are  used  for  culinary  purposes,  making  soap,  and  for  burning  in  lamps.  The  oil,  and  the  fruit 
pickled,  are  with  us  a  luxury,  and  are  obtained  chiefly  from  France. 


The  Chestnut. 

The  Chestnut  tree  growB  to  a  large  size  in  France,  and  other  parta  of  Southern  Europe,  and 
is  very  fruitful.  The  nuts  arc  used  as  food  by  the  poorer  classes,  a  sweetish  tasted  bread  being 
made  from  them. 

399 


EUROPE. 


Kermes  Oak. 


Cork  Tree. 


The  Kermes  Oak  nourishes  a  small  insect  similar  to  the  cochineal  insect.  When  dead,  a 
bright  scarlet  dye  is  made  from  it. 

Cork  is  the  bark  of  a  species  of  oak  which  grows  in  the  South  of  France,  Spain,  and  Por- 
tugal. The  bark  is  stript  from  the  tree  in  large  pieces,  smoked  over  a  fire,  then  laid  down  flat, 
and  loaded  with  heavy  weights  to  keep  it  straight. 


Walnut. 


Mulberry. 


The  Walnut,  of  the  species  called  the  English  Walnut,  is  extensively  cultivated  in  Franco 
and  Italy,  for  the  sake  of  the  nut,  and  the  oil  that  is  made  from  it.  The  latter  is  obtained 
by  pressure  :  it  is  used  for  the  table,  and  also  in  the  finer  kinds  of  painting. 

The  Mulberry  tree,  now  so  extensively  reared  in  France,  Italy,  and  the  adjacent  regions,  for 
the  purpose  of  feeding  silk-worms,  is  a  native  of  China,  from  whence  it  gradually  found  its 
way  into  Southern  Europe  about  700  years  ago. 


FRANCE.  313 

Though  the  commerce  of  France  is  much  inferior  to  that  of 
Great  Britain,  yet  it  is  still  very  considerable.  The  annual  value 
of  the  imports  is  upwards  of  125,000,000  dollars,  and  the  exports 
are  rather  more  than  that  amount.  The  first  consists  of  raw  ma- 
terials for  manufactures,  and  of  articles  of  food  ;  and  the  exports 
of  manufactured  goods  of  various  kinds,  wine,  brandy,  oil,  &c. 

The  interior  commerce  must  be  very  extensive,  though  it  is 
difficult  to  estimate  its  amount,  as,  notwithstanding  considerable 
advantages  for  navigation,  the  bulk  of  it  is  carried  on  by  land. 
The  old  medium  of  fairs  has  been  preserved,  and  it  is  calculated 
that  upwards  of  26,000  are  held  in  France  every  year :  these 
attract  vast  crowds  of  people,  and  an  immense  amount  of  articles 
of  various  kinds  are  sold  at  them. 

The  products  of  French  industry  are  very  numerous,  and  are 
distinguished  for  beauty  and  excellent  workmanship.  The  manu- 
factures have  multiplied  greatly  within  the  last  30  years,  and 
comprise  cotton  and  woollen  goods  of  every  variety ;  porcelain, 
clocks  and  watches ;  cashmere  shawls,  damasks  and  silks  of  fine 
fabric  and  great  beauty ;  gloves,  &c. 

The  military  force  of  France,  though  no  longer  that  immense 
mass  of  which  it  consisted  before  and  during  the  time  of  Napo- 
leon, is  still  a  formidable  body:  under  the  peace  establishment  it 
amounts  to  upwards  of  400,000  men,  besides  the  national  guards 
or  militia.  The  navy  comprises  49  ships  of  the  line,  60  frigates, 
37  steam-ships,  and  about  140  smaller  vessels:  it  is  in  a  high 
state  of  efficiency,  and  is  rapidly  increasing. 

Though  no  country  presents  greater  opportunities  for  prose- 
cuting the  study  of  all  departments  of  learning  than  France,  yet 
but  imperfect  provision  has  been  made  for  the  instruction  of  the 
mass  of  the  people ;  not  more  than  one-third  of  the  departments 
are  provided  with  elementary  schools,  and  not  more  than  one- 
half  of  the  inhabitants  can  read  and  write.  The  number  of  ele- 
mentary schools  is  about  47,000,  which  are  attended  by  nearly 
2,800,000  scholars  between  the  ages  of  two  and  fifteen,  out  of 
almost  8,000,000,  the  whole  number  in  France  between  those 
ages.  All  these  establishments  are  under  the  patronage  and 
control  of  government,  which  grants  annually  about  1,000,000 
dollars  for  their  support.  The  lycees,  or  royal  colleges,  arc  36 
in  number.  The  name  of  university  is  now  confined  to  Paris, 
but  the  provincial  establishments  bearing  the  name  of  academies 
are  constituted  like  the  universities  of  other  countries. 

The  French  excel  in  chemistry,  mathematics,  astronomy,  and 

belles  lettres.     Literary  associations  are  very  numerous,  at  the 

head  of  which  stands  the  Institute  in  Paris,  the  most  celebrated 

scientific  body  in  the  world.     Every  provincial  town  of  conse- 

27  21*  ioi 


314  EUROPE. 

quence  has  its  public  library,  a  museum,  and  in  general  a  society 
for  promoting  literature  and  the  arts.  There  are  273  such  libra- 
ries in  France. 

Until  the  revolution  of  1830,  the  Roman  Catholic  was  the  estab- 
lished religion ;  but  no  one  sect  now  has  any  advantage  over 
another.  There  are  belonging  to  the  Catholic  church  4  cardi- 
nals, 14  archbishops,  66  bishops,  besides  a  large  body  of  eccle- 
siastics of  various  grades,  amounting  in  number  to  36,649. 
There  are,  also,  1983  religious  establishments,  which  contain 
19,340  women.  The  salaries  of  both  the  Catholic  and  Protestant 
clergy,  are  paid  out  of  the  public  treasury.  The  Catholic  church 
costs  the  government  annually  about  7,000,000  dollars,  and  the 
Protestant  130,000  dollars.  The  Protestants  in  France  amount 
to  2,000,000,  and  in  Paris  to  30,000. 

The  government  is  a  constitutional  monarchy,  and  the  succes- 
sion of  the  crown  is  limited  to  the  male  line.  There  is  no  mon- 
archy in  Europe  so  limited  as  the  French.  The  legislative  power 
resides  in  the  king,  the  house  of  peers,  and  the  house  of  deputies 
of  the  departments  :  each  branch  may  propose  a  law.  The  num- 
ber of  peers  is  unlimited,  and  the  nomination  of  them  belongs  to 
the  king.     By  a  late  law,  the  peerage  is  no  longer  hereditary. 

The  people  of  France  are  active,  brave,  and  ingenious ;  they 
are  polished  and  gay  in  their  deportment  and  manners ;  and 
politeness  and  urbanity  may  be  traced  through  all  classes  of 
society,  from  the  highest  to  the  lowest :  those  in  the  upper  ranks 
are  very  attentive  to  the  graceful  accomplishments,  and  excel  in 
dancing,  fencing,  &c,  and  their  example  is  followed  as  much  as 
possible  by  their  inferiors.  The  women  take  an  active  part  in 
all  the  concerns  and  business  of  life  :  at  court  they  are  politicians; 
in  the  city  they  are  merchants,  accountants,  and  shopkeepers ; 
and  in  the  country  they  labour  on  the  farms  with  the  men. 

The  local  divisions  of  France,  prior  to  the  revolution,  were 
provinces,  32  in  number.  This  arrangement  is,  however,  super- 
seded by  one  into  departments,  much  more  minute ;  the  number 
of  which,  including  Corsica,  is  86.  The  population  of  France  is 
estimated  at  about  32,500,000. 

The  colonies  of  France  are,  in  North  America,  the  islands  of 
St.  Pierre  and  Miquelon ;  in  the  West  Indies,  Guadaloupe,  Mar- 
tinico,  &c. ;  in  South  America,  Cayenne;  in  Africa,  Algiers, 
Senegal,  Goree,  and  the  Isle  of  Bourbon ;  in  Asia,  Pondicherry 
and  Karikal,  on  the  Coromandel  coast ;  Chandernagore,  in  Ben- 
gal ;  and  Mahe,  on  the  Malabar  coast.  The  population  of  the 
colonies  is  estimated  at  2,285,000,  which,  added  to  the  popula- 
tion of  France,  makes  a  total  for  the  subjects  of  the  French  mon- 
archy of  34,785,000. 


FRANCE. 


Fountain  of  Vaucluse. 

This  Fountain,  the  source  of  the  river  Sorgue,  is  fifteen  miles  from  Avignon.  Here  the 
celebrated  Petrarch  resided ;  and  through  his  writings,  Vaucluse  has  become  famous  in  ali 
parts  of  the  civilized  world. 


Making  Wine. 


Gathering  Grapes. 


EUROPE. 


The  Luxembourg  Palace,  Paris. 

The  Luxembourg  Palace  was  completed  in  1620,  after  four  years'  labour ;  and  was  long  in- 
habited by  various  members  of  the  royal  family.  During  the  revolution  it  was  converted  into  a 
prison  ;  it  was  afterwards  occupied  by  the  Senate — at  present,  the  Chamber  of  Peers  assemble 
there.  The  building  is  very  spacious ;  and  its  rooms  contain  beautiful  specimens  of  architecture 
and  statuary. 


Church  of  St.  Genevieve,  Paris. 

The  Church  of  St.  Genevieve,  called  during  the  revolution  the  Pantheon,  was  commenced 
in  1764.  It  is  built  in  the  form  of  a  cross,  and  is  339  feet  by  253,  uniting  in  its  style  of  archi- 
tecture the  Greek  and  the  Gothic.  Many  of  the  most  celebrated  characters  of  France  have 
been  interred  here. 


Palais  Royal,  Paris. 

The  Palais  Royal  was  built  in  1663,  by  Cardinal  Richelieu,  for  his  own  residence  ;  it  became 

afterwards  a  royal  palace.    The  side-wings  are  each  700  feet  in  length,  and  the  opposite  ones 

300.    At  present,  it  is  filled  with  splendid  shops,  cafes,  &c.    It  is  a  general  rendezvous  and 

place  of  amusement. 

404 


FRANCE.  315 

Corsica  is  an  island  in  the  Mediterranean  Sea,  situated  between 
the  coast  of  Italy  and  the  Island  of  Sardinia,  about  110  miles 
from  the  coast  of  France,  and  forms  a  part  of  that  kingdom :  it 
is  120  miles  in  length,  and  of  an  unequal  breadth ;  area,  3880 
square  miles.  Population,  in  1831,  185,000.  This  island  is 
covered  with  mountains;  the  principal  chain  divides  it  into  two 
unequal  parts,  and  is  covered  with  snow  the  greater  part  of  the 
year.  The  soil,  though  stony  and  but  little  cultivated,  is  produc- 
tive in  corn,  wine,  oranges,  lemons,  figs,  &c. ;  but  the  chief 
wealth  consists  in  oil,  chestnuts,  and  timber.  The  fisheries  are 
valuable. 

Bastia,  the  largest  town,  has  a  population  of  12,000.  Ajaccio, 
on  the  western  coast,  was  the  birth-place  of  Napoleon.  It  con- 
tains 8000  inhabitants.  The  land  in  Corsica  is  mostly  public 
property.  The  commerce  consists  chiefly  in  the  exportation  of 
coral,  which  abounds  on  the  coasts.  A  narrow  strait  on  the 
south  divides  this  island  from  Sardinia. 

Paris,  the  capital  of  France,  is  the  second  city  in  Europe  for 
population.  It  is  built  on  both  sides  of  the  river  Seine,  about  200 
miles  from  the  sea  by  the  course  of  the  river,  though  only  about 
half  that  distance  by  the  roads,  and  is  famous  for  its  public  build- 
ings, its  scientific  and  literary  institutions,  and  for  the  politeness 
and  gaiety  of  the  inhabitants.   Population,  900,000  to  1,200,000. 

The  city  is  irregularly  built ;  the  houses  are  high,  rising  seven 
or  eight  stories,  and  its  streets,  with  a  few  exceptions,  narrow. 
The  boulevards  or  broad  streets,  planted  with  trees,  are  eighteen 
in  number,  and  form  pleasant  promenades.  There  are  74  public 
places  or  squares,  some  of  which  are  adorned  with  handsome 
monuments  and  fountains.  The  Seine  is  crossed  by  19  bridges, 
and  its  banks  are  lined  with  50  fine  stone  quays,  the  whole  extent 
of  which  amounts  to  15  miles. 

The  Champ  de  Mars  is  an  oblong  park,  bordered  by  rows  of 
trees,  and  extending  from  the  military  school  to  the  river  ,*  it  is 
the  spot  commonly  appropriated  to  the  reviews  of  troops  and 
great  public  festivities.  The  gardens  of  the  Tuileries  to  the  west 
of  the  palace  are  elegantly  laid  out  with  gravelled  walks,  terraces, 
plots  of  flowers,  shrubs,  groves  of  trees  and  basins  of  water,  inter- 
spersed with  beautiful  statues  in  bronze  and  marble.  These  are 
the  favourite  walks  of  the  Parisians,  and  on  Sundays  they  resort 
hither  in  crowds.  The  Luxembourg  gardens  in  the  southerly 
part  of  the  city  also  afford  beautiful  walks. 

The  Champs  Elysees  form  a  spacious  common  in  the  western 
part,  and  the  entrance  to  the  city  in  this  quarter  is  one  of  the 
finest  avenues  in  the  world.  Another  fine  square  in  Paris  is  the 
Place  Vendome,  in  the  centre  of  which  stands  a  column  erected 


316  EUROPE. 

by  Napoleon  in  honour  of  the  Austerlitz  campaign.  It  is  an 
imitation  of  Trajan's  pillar  in  Rome,  134  feet  high,  and  12  in 
diameter.  The  column  is  of  brass,  made  from  425  Austrian  and 
Prussian  cannon,  and  is  covered  with  bas-reliefs,  representing 
scenes  of  the  battle  it  commemorates.  On  the  Pont  Neuf  stands 
an  equestrian  statue  of  Henry  IV.  in  bronze,  one  of  the  finest 
ornaments  of  the  city.  A  similar  one  of  Louis  XIV.  occupies  a 
small  area  called  the  Place  des  Victoires.  A  great  number  of 
elegant  fountains  adorn  and  purify  the  streets  and  markets.  An 
immense  fountain,  in  the  shape  of  an  elephant,  in  bronze,  was 
begun  by  Napoleon  on  the  spot  occupied  by  the  Bastile,  but  still 
remains  unfinished. 

The  public  buildings  in  Paris  which  deserve  notice  for  their  size 
and  magnificence  are  too  numerous  even  to  be  mentioned  here. 
In  this  respect  Paris  is  far  above  London.  The  Tuileries  form  an 
extensive  and  somewhat  irregular  pile  nearly  one-fifth  of  a  mile 
in  front,  which  has  a  noble  effect.  The  Louvre  is  a  model  of  sym- 
metry, and  is  thought  to  make  the  nearest  approach  to  perfection 
of  any  modern  building.  It  contains  1000  paintings,  1500  sta- 
tues, and  20,000  drawings. 

The  church  of  Notre  Dame  is  a  noble  gothic  edifice,  390  feet 
in  length,  with  towers  204  feet  high.  It  was  200  years  in  build- 
ing, and  was  finished  about  the  year  1200.  The  church  of  St. 
Genevieve  is  now  called  the  Pantheon,  and  is  designed  as  a  mau- 
soleum for  the  ashes  of  celebrated  men  :  it  is  a  magnificent  edifice 
in  the  modern  style.  The  Hospital  of  Invalids  is  an  immense 
building,  designed  for  the  residence  of  disabled  soldiers.  It  is 
surmounted  by  a  splendid  gilt  dome,  which  alone  was  30  years 
in  building,  and  is  esteemed  one  of  the  masterpieces  of  French 
architecture. 

The  Jardin  des  Plantes  is  the  noblest  collection  of  interesting 
objects  in  natural  history  that  has  ever  been  formed. 

The  libraries  of  Paris  are  very  large,  and  formed  upon  the 
most  liberal  principles.  Most  of  them  are  public,  and  accessible 
at  all  times  to  the  rich  and  poor.  The  royal  library  contains 
above  500,000  volumes,  besides  100,000  manuscripts,  100,000 
medals,  many  hundreds  of  thousands  of  tracts,  and  1,500,000 
engravings.  This  library  is  crowded  constantly  by  persons  of 
all  classes  in  pursuit  of  knowledge.  The  other  libraries  have 
from  150,000  volumes  downward. 

There  are  about  30  theatres,  large  and  small,  in  Pans.  All 
the  theatres  in  France  pay  a  tenth  part  of  their  receipts  to  the 
poor.  The  houses  in  the  older  parts  of  Paris  are  very  high. 
The  streets  are  generally  without  sidewalks,  and  some  are  paved 
with  flat  stones.    All  those  parts  without  the  boulevards  are  called 


FRANCE. 


Front  View  of  the  Palace  at  Versailles. 

The  Palace  at  Versailles,  twelve  miles  from  Paris,  is  the  most  sumptuous  in  Europe.  It  was 
built  by  Louis  XIV.,  who,  during  twelve  years,  lavished  immense  sums  on  its  embellishment. 
It  is  800  feet  long,  and  contains  many  most  splendid  rooms  ;  while  pictures,  statues,  gardens, 
temples,  and  pavilions,  meet  the  eye  in  every  direction.  This  palace  has  not  been  inhabited 
since  the  early  part  of  the  revolution.  The  striking  events  of  which  it  has  been  the  theatre, 
connect  this  edifice  with  some  of  the  most  remarkable  occurrences  recorded  in  the  history  of 
Europe. 


Cathedral  at  Autun. 

Autun,  160  miles  from  Paris,  is  an  ancient  town.    It  attracts  notice  by  a  temple,  and  othej 
remains,  which  indicate  its  importance  as  a  Roman  city  ;  also,  by  its  fine  modern  cathedral. 


&SS&& 


Pont  du  Gard. 


The  Pont  du  Gard,  near  Nismes,  is  a  Roman  aqueduct  which  passes  over  the  river  Gardon. 
It  is  in  good  preservation,  and  consists  of  a  series  of  arches  157  feet  high,  350  long  at  the 
bottom,  and  872  at  the  top.  The  grandeur  and  simplicity  of  this  ancient  monument  excite  the 
admiration  of  every  traveller. 

407 


EUROPE. 


View  of  the  City  of  Lyons. 

Lyons  is  an  important  city.  It  is  built  at  the  confluence  of  the  Rhone  and  the  Saone,  over 
both  of  which  streams  there  are  several  bridges.  The  origin  of  Lyons  is  unknown,  but  it  was 
a  noted  place  in  the  days  of  Our  Saviour :  and  was  called  by  the  Romans  Lugdunensis. 


View  of  Bordeaux. 

Bordeaux  is.  next  to  Marseilles,  the  most  commercial  city  in  France.  Its  interior  is  not  hand- 
some, the  streets  being  very  narrow  and  crooked,  but  many  of  the  buildings  are  elegant. 
Vestiges  of  Roman  grandeur  still  remain. 


Calais  Harbour. 

Calais  is  an  ancient  town  ;  and  its  possession  was  often  contested  by  the  French  and  English. 
It  remained  in  the  hands  of  the  latter  from  134C  until  1558.  This  town  is  the  chief  point  of 
communication  between  France  and  England — steam-boats  and  other  vessels  are  constantly 

running  from  hence  to  Dover. 

408 


FRANCE. 


Polignac  Castle. 
Polignac  Castle  is  an  ancient  feudal  fortress,  situated  in  the  department  of  the  Upper  Loire. 


View  of  the  City  of  Dijon. 
Dijon,   J70  miles  south-east  of  Paris,  presents  a  striking  appearance  to  the   approaching 
traveller  from  its  lofty  and  numerous  spires.    It  contains  a  distinguished  University. 


View  in  Slrasburg. 


Grande  Chartreuse. 


Strasburg,  in  the  eastern  part  of  France,  is  noted  for  its  cathedral,  or  minster,  the  tower  of 
which  is  470  feet  high. 

The  Grande  Chartreuse  is  a  celebrated  Carthusian  Monastery,  situated  at  the  base  of  the 
Alps.  It  was  founded  by  St.  Bruno,  in  1086  ;  and  was  at  one  time  the  head  of  all  the  Car- 
'husian  monasteries  in  Europe — 173  in  number. 

2K  409 


EUROPE. 


Cathedral  at  Rheims. 


Cathedral  at  Amiens. 


The  Cathedrals  of  Rheims  and  Amiens  are  both  splendid  and  spacious  structures.  The  first 
dates  from  the  twelfth  century.  By  some  it  is  regarded  as  the  most  perfect  Gothic  edifice  in  the 
world.  In  this  cathedral  all  the  kings  of  France,  from  the  time  of  Philip  Augustus  (1179)  to 
Charles  X.  (1825),  were  crowned  and  anointed,  except  Henrv  IV.,  Napoleon,  and  Louis  XVIII. 


Cathedral  at  Rouen. 


This  Cathedral,  commenced  by  William  the  Conqueror,  \va9  considered  one  of  the  finest 

specimens  of  ecclesiastical  architecture  in  France.    By  a  late  disaster,  a  great  part  of  it  has 

been  destroyed.  . ,. 

41U 


FRANCE.  317 

fauxbovrgs.  The  gates  of  the  city  are  denominated  barriers, 
and  here  passengers  must  exhibit  their  passports,  and  merchan- 
dise pay  a  duty  on  entering  the  city. 

The  neighbourhood  of  Paris  is  highly  cultivated,  and  there  are 
many  sites  at  once  beautiful  and  romantic.  The  celebrated  St. 
Cloud,  with  its  superb  palace,  its  park,  gardens,  cascade,  fine 
view  and  political  associations,  is  within  5  miles  ;  and  Versailles, 
with  its  magnificent  but  melancholy  grandeur,  is  within  12  miles 
of  the  capital. 

Lyons  is  considered  as  the  second  city  in  France,  and  amongst 
the  foremost  in  regard  to  commerce  and  industry.  It  is  on  the 
whole  a  noble  city.  The  quays  along  the  Rhone  are  superb. 
The  cathedral  is  highly  ornamented  in  the  florid  gothic  style ; 
and  the  squares,  especially  the  Place  de  Bellecour,  with  its  foun- 
tains and  statues,  are  nowhere  surpassed.  On  the  other  hand, 
the  old  streets  are  narrow,  bordered  by  lofty  and  gloomy  walls, 
and  divided  by  a  muddy  stream. 

This  city  is  celebrated  for  its  manufactures  of  silk  and  other 
goods,  which  employ  a  great  number  of  the  inhabitants.  There 
are  here  numerous  hospitals  and  churches  ;  several  learned  socie- 
ties, and  institutions  for  education,  among  which  is  a  royal  col- 
lege and  a  fine  library  of  about  100,000  volumes,  &c.  Popula- 
tion of  the  city,  108,000. 

Marseilles,  on  the  Mediterranean,  is  the  chief  commercial  city 
of  France.  It  consists  of  two  divisions,  the  old  and  the  new 
town :  the  former  is  composed  of  narrow  streets  and  ancient 
houses.  The  new  town  is  equal  in  beauty  to  any  city  in  France ; 
the  streets  are  broad  and  straight,  the  squares  large  and  hand- 
some, and  the  buildings  remarkable  for  their  elegance.  The 
quays  are  crowded  with  ships  and  merchants  from  various  parts 
of  the  world.     Population,  116,000. 

Bordeaux  is  situated  on  the  Garonne  river,  60  miles  from  its 
mouth :  it  is  one  of  the  chief  commercial  towns  in  France,  and 
exports  large  quantities  of  wine,  brandy,  oil,  fruits,  &c.  Its 
merchants  are  engaged  also  in  the  colonial  trade,  and  in  the 
whale  and  cod  fisheries.  Population,  94,000.  Rouen,  on  the 
Seine,  below  Paris,  was  formerly  a  place  of  much  wealth,  and  is 
famous  for  its  manufactures  of  jewelry.     Population,  90,000. 

Nantes,  on  the  Loire,  near  its  mouth,  is  a  considerable  com- 
mercial place,  and  a  part  of  it  is  very  elegantly  built :  population, 
72,000.  Lille,  140  miles  north-east  of  Paris,  is  a  frontier  town, 
and  well  fortified ;  it  is  surrounded  by  walls,  and  was  fortified  bv 
Vauban  ;  the  citadel  is  considered  one  of  the  strongest  in  Europe: 
population,  70,000.  Toulouse,  on  the  canal  of  Languedoc,  is 
27  *  4u 


318  EUROPE. 

next  in  antiquity  to  Paris :  it  is  surrounded  by  walls,  and  has  a 
town-house  and  church  of  great  magnificence:  population,  54,000. 
Strasburg,  on  the  borders  of  Germany,  is  one  of  the  best  fortified 
cities  in  Europe  :  the  steeple  of  its  cathedral  is  574  feet  high,  and 
is  the  loftiest  building  in  Europe :  population,  50,000. 

Orleans,  on  the  Loire,  has  a  noble  cathedral  and  bridge  :  popu- 
lation, 40,000.  Avignon,  on  the  Rhone,  was  once  the  residence 
of  the  popes ;  and  Nismes,  in  the  same  neighbourhood,  possesses 
the  remains  of  a  large  Roman  amphitheatre  :  population,  31,000 
Toulon,  a  little  to  the  east  of  Marseilles,  is  an  important  seaport 
and  has  an  arsenal  and  magazine,  containing  an  immense  quan- 
tity of  stores  for  the  navy :  population,  30,000.  Brest,  at  the 
entrance  of  the  British  Channel,  is  the  chief  naval  station  of  the 
kingdom :  it  has  a  quay  a  mile  in  length  :  population,  26,000. 


SPAIN. 

Spain  comprises  the  chief  part  of  a  great  peninsula  lying  in 
the  south-west  part  of  Europe.  It  is  advantageously  situated  for 
trade  and  commerce,  and  two  centuries  ago  was  the  most  for- 
midable power  in  Christendom,  but  it  is  now  comparatively  weak; 
and  is  backward  in  agriculture,  manufactures,  the  arts,  and  edu- 
cation. 

It  is  bounded  north  by  the  Bay  of  Biscay  and  France,  east  and 
south  by  the  Mediterranean  Sea  and  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar,  and 
west  by  Portugal  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  Its  greatest  length 
from  east  to  west,  is  640  miles;  breadth,  530;  area,  183,000 
square  miles.  Spain  is  a  mountainous  country,  and  a  large  por- 
tion of  it  has  an  elevated  surface.  The  Pyrenees  form  its  north- 
eastern boundary,  and  are  connected  with  the  Cantabrian  chain, 
which  extends  throughout  the  northern  part  of  the  kingdom. 
The  chief  of  the  central  and  southern  chains,  are  the  Sierra  To- 
ledo, Sierra  Morena,  and  Sierra  Nevada. 

The  mountain  of  Montserrat  is  a  detached  eminence  of  the 
eastern  Pyrenees,  about  30  miles  north-west  of  Barcelona.  It 
consists  of"  a  cluster  of  sharp  peaks,  rising  to  the  height  of  3300 
feet,  and  always  capped  with  clouds.  The  whole  mountain  is 
24  miles  in  circumference.  There  are  14  hermitages  upon  dif- 
ferent parts  of  these  heights,  and  about  half-way  up  is  a  magnifi- 
cent convent  of  Benedictines.  The  scenery  in  every  part  of  this 
remarkable  eminence  is  strikingly  bold  and  romantic. 

The  rivers  of  Spain  form  an  important  feature  in  its  geogra- 
phy.    None  of  them,  however,  are  of  much  importance  as  medi- 


SPAIN 


Tho  Fig. 


Cactus  Tuna,  or  Fijodo  Inferno. 


The  Fig  is  cultivated  in  Europe,  Asia,  and  Africa,  and  forms  an  important  article  of  food. 
More  than  100  species  are  known,  but  in  most  of  them  the  female  plant  only  bears  fruit. 
Dried  figs  are  imported  into  the  United  States  from  Spain,  Portugal,  France,  and  Turkey. 

The  Cactus  Tuna  is  employed  in  Spain  and  Portugal  for  hedges,  and,  in  consequence  of 
the  multitude  of  its  strong  and  sharp  prickles,  forms  an  almost  impervious  barrier  to  cattle. 


Tho  Orange. 


Carob  Tree  and  Bean. 


The  Orange  grows  in  great  perfection  in  Spain,  and  vast  quantities  of  the  fruit  are  exported 
to  other  countries.  The  blossoms  appear  in  May,  and  the  fruit  ripens  in  the  following  January. 
A  tree  yields  from  1500  to  2500  oranges  annually. 

The  Carob  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  European  trees  ;  it  is  of  large  dimensions,  and 
affords  a  welcome  shade.    The  pods  or  fruit  when  ripe  are  used  as  fodder  for  cattle  and  swine. 

2K*  413 


EUROPE. 


Cactus  Opuntia,  or  Prickly  Pear. 


Cistus  Rose. 


The  Guitar. 


Dancing  the  Fandango. 


SPAIN.  319 

urns  of  communication :  they  have  mostly  shallow  and  rocky 
beds,  and  dry  up  in  summer  to  such  a  degree  as  to  be  nearly 
useless  for  navigation.  The  principal  are  the  Tagus,  Ebro, 
Guadiana,  Guadalquivir,  Duero,  Guadalaviar,  Xucar,  &c. 

This  country  lies  in  the  southern  part  of  the  temperate  zone. 
The  cold  is  never  excessive,  even  in  the  northern  parts.  In  the 
south  the  heat  of  mid-summer  would  be  intolerable,  but  for  the 
sea-breeze,  which  cools  the  atmosphere.  The  provinces  along 
the  Mediterranean,  are  the  paradise  of  this  kingdom.  An  ever- 
lasting spring  seems  to  reign  in  this  delightful  country.  The 
sky  of  Andalusia  is  remarkably  beautiful ;  the  inhabitants  of 
Seville  affirm,  that  a  day  was  never  known  when  the  sun  did 
not  shine  upon  their  city. 

The  greater  part  of  the  land  in  Spain  belongs  to  the  nobility, 
the  church,  and  towns,  or  corporate  bodies.  The  state  of  agri- 
culture is  wretched  in  the  extreme,  and  the  implements  of  hus- 
bandry are  very  rude.  Wheat,  rye,  barley,  hemp,  and  Indian 
corn,  are  cultivated  in  almost  all  the  provinces.  Olives  grow  in 
the  southern  parts ;  and  in  this  quarter  may  be  seen  large  fields 
of  saffron  and  rice,  and  cotton  plantations.  Every  part  of  the 
country  produces  wine.  The  rearing  of  sheep  is  an  important 
branch  of  industry  in  Spain.  The  fineness  of  the  Spanish  me- 
rino wool  is  well  known.  There  are  no  less  than  16,000  shep- 
herds, and  the  number  of  sheep,  in  1826>  was  upwards  of 
18,000,000. 

Spain  has  naturally  great  commercial  advantages,  yet  the 
foreign  commerce  is  limited.  Wine,  oil,  fruits,  and  wool,  are  the 
chief  articles  of  export.  The  coasting  trade  is  active  and  im- 
portant ;  but  the  want  of  good  roads,  as  well  as  of  navigable  rivers 
and  canals,  greatly  retards  the  inland  commerce.  The  anchovy, 
tunny,  and  coral  fisheries,  are  actively  prosecuted. 

The  manufactures  of  this  country  were  once  very  important, 
and  are  still  considerable :  they  comprise  some  silk  and  woollen 
fabrics,  with  leather,  paper,  hats,  and  soap.  Tobacco  is  manu- 
factured only  at  Seville.  There  is  a  royal  manufactory  of  mir- 
rors at  St.  Ildefonso ;  and  some  iron  and  steel  ware,  and  brandy, 
are  likewise  made  in  various  places.  Barilla,  from  which  soda 
is  obtained,  is  manufactured  to  some  extent  along  the  coast  of 
the  Mediterranean :  it  is  procured  by  burning  a  vegetable,  which 
is  sown  for  the  purpose. 

The  revenue  of  Spain,  once  the  largest  in  Europe,  is  now 
greatly  reduced ;  it  is  supposed  to  be  annually  about  30,000,000 
dollars,  and  the  public  debt  amounts  to  800,000,000  dollars. 
The  army  comprised  some  years  ago  about  90,000  men ;  and 
the  navy  three  ships  of  the  line,  four  frigates,  and  30  smaller 


320  EUROPE. 

vessels :  the  present  unsettled  state  of  the  kingdom,  however, 
renders  it  difficult  to  ascertain  the  actual  condition  of  the  revenue 
or  any  other  department  of  the  national  affairs. 

Spain  is  a  limited  hereditary  monarchy.  The  constitution  of 
1837  is  similar  in  many  respects  to  that  of  France,  and  guaran- 
ties the  liberty  of  the  press,  and  other  fundamental  principles  of 
freedom.  The  power  of  enacting  laws  resides  with  the  Cortes, 
in  conjunction  with  the  sovereign.  The  Cortes  are  composed  of 
two  legislative  bodies  of  equal  powers ;  the  Senate,  and  Congress 
of  Deputies. 

The  religion  of  this  country  is  strictly  Roman  Catholic.  The 
number  of  archbishops  is  8,  and  there  are  51  bishops.  The 
clergy  of  all  classes,  including  monks  and  nuns,  comprises 
188,625  individuals.  The  sovereign  nominates  to  all  ecclesi- 
astical dignities,  and  even  to  the  smaller  benefices.  The  clergy 
are  the  most  powerful  body  in  Spain,  but  their  influence  is  dimin- 
ishing :  they  retain,  however,  a  strong  hold  upon  the  favour  of 
the  lower  class,  and  distribute  from  monasteries  alms  or  food 
daily  to  the  poor. 

There  are  11  universities  in  Spain,  but  their  plans  of  instruc- 
tion are  antiquated,  and  seem  to  be  so  directed  as  to  spread  error 
and  encourage  ignorance,  rather  than  knowledge.  The  few  ele- 
mentary schools  are  in  no  better  condition.  The  lower  classes 
seldom  learn  to  read  and  write,  and  those  above  them  are  but 
imperfectly  instructed,  there  being  but  little  encouragement  for 
education. 

The  Spaniards  of  the  higher  class  are  haughty,  reserved,  fond 
of  parade,  and  ambitious  of  dignities  and  titles  ;  but  the  common 
people  are  gay,  good-humoured,  and  courteous,  and  are  frugal 
and  sober  in  their  habits.  Indolence  is  the  common  vice  of  the 
nation,  and  the  great  curse  of  the  country ;  but  the  people  of 
Catalonia  and  Biscay  form  striking  exceptions  to  the  general  rule, 
being  more  active  and  industrious  than  the  inhabitants  of  the 
other  provinces.  The  people  of  Spain  have  generally  expressive 
countenances,  dark  hair  and  complexion,  and  brilliant  eyes.  The 
women  are  distinguished  for  beauty  of  person  and  dignity  of 
manner ;  and  are  noted  for  their  fidelity  and  constancy.  The 
strictness  with  which  they  were  formerly  treated,  and  the  seclu- 
sion in  which  they  were  kept,  are  in  a  great  measure  done  away. 

The  favourite  amusements  of  the  people  are  music,  dancing, 
and  exhibitions  of  bull-fighting :  the  latter  are  generally  attended 
by  thousands  of  both  sexes  and  of  all  ranks,  and  arc  looked 
upon  with  enthusiastic  delight.  The  national  dance  is  the  fan- 
dango, which  is  full  of  liveliness  and  grace ;  the  bolero  is  another 
form  of  the  same  dance. 


SPAIN. 


View  of  Seville,  Spain. 
Seville,  called  by  the  Romans  Hispalis,  and  by  the  Moors  Ixbilla,  is  one  of  the  most  ancient 
cities  in  Spain.    When  taken  from  the  latter  by  Ferdinand  III.,  it  contained  COO.000  inhabitants, 
one-half  of  whom,  immediately  abandoned  it. 


View  of  Cadiz,  Spain. 
Cadiz,  the  Gadir  of  the  Phoenicians,  and  the  Gades  of  the  Romans,  has  been,  from  very  earTy 
times,  a  noted  commercial  mart.    It  was  taken  and  plundered  by  the  Earl  of  Essex,  in  1596; 
and  was  unsuccessfully  besieged  by  the  French  for  two  years  and  a  half,  in  1810,  '11  and  '12. 


&&E>£fi?M 


-. 


View  of  Cordova,  Spain. 
Cordova  was  a  town  of  some  note  under  the  Romans,  and  also  under  the  Moors.    When  in 
possession  of  the  latter,  it  contained  a  population  of  300,000.    The  bridge  over  the  Guadal- 
quivir was  built  by  them. 

417 


EUROPE. 


Aqueduct  of  Segovia,  Spain. 
The  Aqueduct  of  Segovia  is  a  Roman  work  of  159  arches,  half  a  mile  long,  and  94  feet  high. 


Palace  of  the  Escurial,  twenty-two  miles  from  Madrid. 

The  Escurial,  built  by  Philip  II.,  was  commenced  in  1563.  It  is  740  feet  by  530,  and  cost 
fifty  million  dollars.  It  was  dedicated  to  St.  Lawrence,  and  has  the  form  of  a  gridiron,  the 
instrument  on  which  the  saint  suffered  death.  This  edifice  is  partly  a  palace  and  partly  a  mon- 
astery. The  royal  family  formerly  spent  a  portion  of  the  summer  here.  It  contains  the  bodies 
of  all  the  Spanish  sovereigns  who  have  reigned  since  the  time  of  Charles  V.  About  140 
monks  were  a  few  years  ago  attached  to  the  Escurial. 


Palace  of  the  Alhambra,  Granada. 
The  Alhambra  was  built  in  1280,  and  is  the  noblest  specimen  of  Moorish  architecture  exist- 
ing.   The  exterior  is  rudely  constructed — the  splendour  for  which  it  is  famed  being  found  alto- 
gether in  the  interior. 

418 


STAIN.  321 

The  Spaniards  are  temperate  both  in  eating  and  drinking :  the 
noted  national  dish  is  the  ollapodrida,  a  compound  of  various 
meats,  vegetables  and  herbs,  which  even  foreigners  admit  to  be 
palatable.  The  pleasures  of  society  are  sought  chiefly  at  tertu- 
lias  or  evening  parties,  where  only  slight  refreshment  is  presented ; 
but  refrescos  or  dinner  parties,  are  given  on  a  large  scale  upon 
special  occasions. 

Spain  is  divided  into  14  provinces,  some  of  which  have  the  title 
of  kingdoms ;  each  of  these  has  its  separate  administration,  and 
most  of  them  are  subdivided  into  several  smaller  provinces.  Of 
all  the  immense  territories  in  America  which  formerly  belonged 
to  Spain,  none  remain  under  her  dominion  but  the  islands  of 
Cuba  and  Porto  Rico.  In  Africa,  she  possesses  Ceuta  and  some 
other  towns  on  the  Barbary  coast,  and  the  Canary  Islands.  In 
Oceanica,  are  the  Philippines,  and  Ladrone  Islands. 

The  number  of  inhabitants  in  Spain  is  estimated  at  12,000,000, 
and  that  of  the  colonies  supposed  to  be  about  4,088,000,  making 
a  total  of  16,088,000  for  the  Spanish  monarchy. 

The  Balearic  Islands  are  a  group  in  the  Mediterranean  Sea : 
they  consist  of  Majorca,  Minorca,  Ivica,  and  Fromentera ;  all 
belonging  to  this  kingdom.  Majorca,  the  largest,  is  about  100 
miles  from  the  coast :  it  is  40  miles  in  extent  each  way,  and  is 
mountainous.  Minorca  possesses  the  valuable  harbour  of  Port 
Mahon,  which  is  often  visited  by  the  national  vessels  of  the  United 
States.  These  islands  have  generally  a  good  soil,  and  produce 
oranges,  olives,  wine,  &c.     Population,  184,000. 

Madrid,  the  capital  of  Spain,  is  a  handsome  but  somewhat 
gloomy  city :  the  streets  are  well  paved,  and  have  broad  foot- 
paths. The  main  street  of  Alcala,  long,  spacious,  and  bordered 
on  each  side  by  a  row  of  princely  houses,  attracts  particular 
admiration.  The  Prado,  a  wide  public  walk,  bordered  by  trees, 
and  connected  with  gardens  all  open  to  the  public,  is  equally  con- 
ducive to  ornament  and  pleasure.  There  are  many  public  foun- 
tains, supplied  with  pure,  light,  and  salubrious  water,  filtered 
through  beds  of  gravel  and  sand,  from  a  distance  of  seven  or  eight 
leagues. 

The  royal  palace,  built  by  Philip  V.,  is  a  spacious  and  mag- 
nificent structure,  though  the  taste  displayed  in  it  is  a  subject  of 
controversy.  It  contains  numerous  fine  paintings,  which  do  not 
equal,  however,  those  of  the  Escurial.  The  Retiro,  with  its  fine 
gardens,  was  defaced  by  the  French,  who  made  it  a  military  post; 
an  extensive  and  costly  menagerie  is  now  forming  within  its  pre- 
•  cincts.  The  museum  of  statuary  and  painting,  a  new  and  elegant 
building,  has  recently  been  enriched  with  some  of  the  finest  pic- 
tures from  the  royal  palaces.     The  cabinet  of  natural  history, 


322  EUROPE. 

supported  by  the  government,  is  also  a  handsome  structure,  and 
its  contents  valuable.     Population,  201,000. 

Barcelona  is,  after  the  capital,  the  largest  city  in  Spain  ;  and 
was,  until  the  disturbances  broke  out  which  now  agitate  the  coun- 
try, distinguished  for  its  commerce  and  manufactures  :  the  latter 
comprised  woollen,  silk,  and  cotton  goods.  A  thousand  vessels 
entered  its  ports,  and  the  annual  exports  were  reckoned  to  amount 
to  8,000,000  dollars.  The  city  contains  four  public  libraries, 
eight  colleges,  several  hospitals,  numerous  churches,  and  some 
other  remarkable  public  edifices.     Population,  150,000. 

Seville  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  Guadalquivir.  It  was 
formerly  very  rich  and  populous,  being  the  chief  mart  for  the 
American  and  India  trade.  The  public  buildings  are  very  ele- 
gant. The  general  appearance  of  the  city  indicates  the  Moorish 
character  of  its  former  possessors.  The  streets  are  narrow,  but 
clean ;  the  houses  are  whitewashed,  and  furnished  with  balco- 
nies; every  third  or  fourth  house  has  a  garden  and  orangery. 
The  cathedral  is  one  of  the  largest  in  Spain,  and  contains  the 
tomb  of  Columbus.  The  inhabitants  manufacture  silk,  tobacco, 
snuff  and  cigars.     Population,  91,000. 

Cadiz,  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  has,  by  means  of  its  excellent 
harbour,  engrossed  the  trade  once  enjoyed  by  Seville.  This  city 
stands  upon  the  isle  of  Leon,  which  is  connected  with  the  conti- 
nent by  a  bridge.  From  the  height  of  the  houses,  the  narrow- 
ness of  the  streets,  and  the  smallness  of  the  windows,  many  parts 
of  the  city  have  a  gloomy  appearance.  Here  are  two  cathedrals 
and  a  very  large  hospital.  The  city  is  strongly  fortified,  and  is 
one  of  the  most  important  sea-ports  in  Spain.  Since  the  loss  of 
the  American  colonies,  however,  its  commerce  has  been  much 
reduced.  Its  population  has  a  more  mixed  and  diversified  aspect 
than  that  of  any  other  city  in  the  kingdom.     Population,  53,000. 

Granada  was  founded  by  the  Moors,  and  at  the  period  of  their 
greatest  glory,  contained  400,000  inhabitants.  It  is  still  cele- 
brated as  the  most  beautiful  city  in  Spain,  although  its  population 
has  dwindled  to  80,000.  The  houses  are  nearly  all  in  the  Moor- 
ish style.  It  has  many  beautiful  squares,  fountains,  and  public 
buildings,  with  7  colleges  and  11  hospitals.  In  the  immediate 
neighbourhood  is  the  Alhambra,  a  magnificent  Moorish  palace, 
occupying  the  space  of  a  small  town.  Every  traveller  has  been 
struck  with  admiration  at  the  sight  of  its  splendid  halls,  golden 
saloons,  courts,  alcoves,  fountains,  colonnades,  and  mosaic  pave- 
ments, which  almost  realize  the  description  of  fairy  land. 

Valencia,  on  the  Guadalaviar,  at  its  entrance  into  the  Medi- 
terranean, has  many  manufactories,  and  is  a  rich  and  elegant 
city.     The  surrounding  country  is  highly  cultivated,  and  forms 


SPAIN. 


Hall  of  the  Abencerrages,  Alhambra. 


Gate  of  the  Sanctuary  of  the  Koran,  Alhambra. 


In  the  interior  of  the  Alhambra,  the  visiter  passes  through  a  range  of  apartments  :  the  Baths, 
the  Court  of  the  Lions,  the  Hall  of  the  Abencerrages,  the  Golden  .Saloon,  or  Hall  of  the 
Ambassadors,  the  Gate  of  the  Sanctuary  of  the  Koran,  the  Tower  of  the  Two  Sisters,  and 
others,  in  which  the  lichness  and  beauty  displayed,  and  the  elegance  and  variety  of  the  orna- 
ments, strike  every  beholder  with  admiration. 


Colonnades  in  the  interior  of  the  Cathedral  of  Cordova. 

The  Mosque  of  Cordova,  now  the  Cathedral,  was  erected  by  the  Moors  in  the  seventh  cen- 
tury. It  is  534  feet  by  387,  and  is  ornamented  in  the  interior  by  rows  of  cupolas,  which  are 
supported  by  850  pillars  of  jasper  and  marble,  dividing  the  building  into  nineteen  colonnades. 

2L  431 


EUROPE. 


The  Castle  of  Almanza,  fifty-four  miles  south-west  of  Valencia. 
The  Castle  of  Almanza  was  a  Moorish  fortress,  once  of  great  importance,  and  reckoned 
the  Key  of  Granada. 


Montserrat,  in  Catalonia,  3937  feet  high,  and  24  miles  in  circumference. 

This  mountain  is  famous  for  the  hermitages  built  on  its  craggy  sides;  and  also  for  an  image 
of  the  Virgin,  which  is  visited  by  numerous  pilgrims. 


Ronda,  thirty-five  miles  west  of  Malaga. 
Ronda  is  situated  on  a  steep  rock,  through  which  a  small  river  runs  in  a  deep  chasm ;  the 
opposite  sides  of  this  chasm  are  connected  by  a  bridge  280  feet  above  the  stream.    Stairs  of 
350  steps,  cut  in  the  rock,  lead  from  the  town  down  to  the  water. 


View  of  Gibraltar. 


422 


SPAIN.  323 

a  delightful  garden,  the  air  of  which  is  loaded  with  perfumes. 
The  city  has  a  large  commerce  in  the  exportation  of  silk.  Popu- 
lation, 66,000.  Cordova  stands  on  the  Guadalquivir,  and  makes 
a  splendid  appearance  at  a  distance.  It  contains  a  magnificent 
cathedral,  with  16  steeples  and  4000  columns  of  jasper  and  mar- 
ble. This  building  was  originally  a  mosque,  and  was  erected  by 
the  Moors.  It  affords  an  imposing  evidence  of  the  magnificent 
spirit  and  refined  taste  of  that  people.  Cordova  is  now  famous 
for  its  trade  in  leather.  Population,  57,000.  Its  environs  pro- 
duce the  finest  breed  of  horses  in  Spain.  Saragossa  stands  on 
the  Ebro,  and  has  considerable  trade  and  manufactures.  It  is 
remarkable  for  the  siege  it  sustained  against  the  French,  during 
the  peninsular  war.  Population,  52,000.  Its  university  has 
2000  students,  but  not  much  literature. 

Malaga  and  Alicant,  on  the  Mediterranean,  and  Corunna  and 
Bilbao,  on  the  Atlantic,  are  also  considerable  seaports.  The  first 
is  reckoned  the  third  commercial  town  in  the  kingdom.  It  ex- 
ports largely  the  well-known  Malaga  or  mountain  wine ;  also, 
fine  raisins  and  other  fruits,  anchovies,  &c.  Population,  52,000. 
Bilbao  is  noted  for  its  large  exports  of  merino  wool.  Population, 
15,000.  Toledo,  once  the  proud  capital  of  Spain,  contained,  in 
the  days  of  its  prosperity,  a  population  of  200,000,  which  has 
been  reduced  to  25,000.  Its  manufactures  of  wool  and  silk, 
which  are  said  to  have  employed  nearly  40,000  men,  have  dis- 
appeared ;  and  government  has  in  vain  attempted  to  revive  that 
of  swords,  of  which  those  formerly  manufactured  at  Toledo  were 
valued  above  all  others. 

Gibraltar  is  an  important  fortress,  situated  upon  the  strait  which 
forms  the  entrance  to  the  Mediterranean.  The  fortifications  oc- 
cupy a  craggy  rock,  rising  to  the  height  of  1439  feet.  The  town 
consists  of  one  long  street,  passing  along  the  foot  of  the  rock. 
The  whole  forms  a  peninsula,  washed  on  one  side  by  the  Medi- 
terranean, and  on  the  other  side  by  a  bay  five  miles  in  width. 
The  rock  is  steep  in  every  part,  and  so  strongly  fortified  as  to 
be  impregnable.  It  was  captured  by  the  English  in  1704,  and 
has  been  retained  by  them  ever  since.  It  was  besieged  in  1782 
by  a  French  and  Spanish  army  of  30,000  men,  and  bombarded 
by  powerful  floating  batteries,  but  without  effect.  The  British 
regard  it  as  one  of  their  most  important  possessions.  The  town 
is  a  general  mart  for  goods  from  every  quarter,  and  has  a  popu- 
lation of  14,000,  mostly  English. 

Republic  op  Andorra. — This  little  republic,  with  a  territory 
of  hardly  200  square  miles,  and  a  population  of  about  15,000 
souls,  occupies  a  valley  on  the  southern  side  of  the  Pyrenees. 


324  EUROPE. 

Beside  Andorra,  the  capital,  a  town  of  2000  inhabitants,  it  con- 
tains five  villages,  which  export  iron  and  timber.  It  is  governed 
by  a  syndic,  who  presides  over  the  council  of  the  valley,  and  by 
two  viguiers,  appointed,  the  one  by  the  king  of  France,  and  the 
other  by  the  bishop  of  Urgel,  in  Spain. 


PORTUGAL. 

This  kingdom,  like  Spain,  has  declined  from  its  former  great- 
ness. Three  centuries  ago,  it  was  celebrated  for  the  valour  of 
its  soldiers  and  the  skill  of  its  sailors.  It  became  distinguished 
for  its  exertions  and  success  in  modern  discoveries,  and  was  for 
a  time  the  first  commercial  nation  in  the  world. 
.  Portugal  is  the  most  western  country  of  continental  Europe, 
and  is  very  similar  to  Spain  in  climate,  soil,  and  productions. 
It  is  bounded  on  the  north  and  east  by  Spain,  and  on  the  west 
and  south  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  It  is  about  360  miles  in  length, 
and  from  100  to  140  miles  wide:  area,  39,000  square  miles. 

The  mountains  of  Portugal  may  be  considered  as  prolongations 
of  those  of  Spain,  and  seldom  rise  to  the  first  magnitude :  they 
cover  a  considerable  part  of  the  country,  leaving  between  them 
many  picturesque  and  fertile  valleys.  There  are  only  two  exten- 
sive plains,  one  on  the  south  of  the  Tagus,  and  the  other  immedi- 
ately south  of  the  Douro. 

The  rivers  consist  chiefly  of  the  spacious  terminations  of  the 
greatest  streams  of  Spain  in  their  progress  to  the  ocean.  The 
Douro  forms  the  great  maritime  emporium  of  Oporto,  and  the 
Tagus  that  of  Lisbon.  The  Guadiana,  also,  in  its  lower  course, 
flows  along  the  eastern  frontier  of  Portugal.  The  Minho,  a  much 
smaller  stream,  comes  down  from  the  north  of  Spain. 

The  industry  and  commerce  of  Portugal,  which  presented  so 
brilliant  an  aspect  during  her  era  of  prosperity,  have  sunk  lower 
than  those  of  almost  any  other  European  nation. 

Agriculture  did  not,  until  very  lately,  experience  any  of  the 
improvements  which  have  become  general  in  the  rest  of  Europe. 
The  chief  object  of  attention  is  the  vine,  which,  with  the  olive 
and  other  fruit  trees,  is  cultivated  in  the  valleys  and  on  the  sides 
of  the  hills,  in  the  northern  parts  of  the  kingdom.  Here  is  pro- 
duced the  port  wine,  which  forms  the  main  basis  of  Portuguese 
trade,  and  finds  so  certain  a  market  in  Great  Britain.  The 
entire  produce  is  estimated  at  80,000  pipes.  Of  white  wine  Por- 
tugal produces  about  60,000  pipes  ;  but  this  is  of  inferior  quality, 
and  chiefly  consumed  at  home.     Sheep  are  bred  on  the  hills  to 


PORTUGAL.  325 

a  pretty  large  extent ;  but  not  so  abundantly  as  in  Spain,  neither 
is  their  wool  so  fine. 

The  manufactures  of  Portugal  scarcely  deserve  to  be  named. 
Little  is  known  beyond  the  working  of  their  wool  for  domestic 
use  by  each  family  or  neighbourhood ;  all  their  finer  fabrics  are 
imported.  Working  in  gold  and  silver  plate,  forms  almost  the 
only  exception  ;  cambrics  also  are  well  made  in  some  places  ;  and 
a  few  other  local  objects  might  be  enumerated.  Various  metals 
and  minerals  abound  in  this  country,  but  there  are  no  mines 
wrought  except  a  k\v  of  iron.  Very  little  attention  is  paid  to 
the  proper  working  of  mines.  Fish  of  the  finest  kinds  are 
caught  in  considerable  quantity,  for  immediate  consumption  ;  but 
the  salt  which  the  kingdom  so  abundantly  produces,  is  not  used 
for  preserving  them ;  and  a  large  import  of  salted  fish  is  still 
necessary  to  meet  the  wants  of  a  population  so  strictly  Catholic. 

The  commerce  which  formed  the  greatness  of  Portugal  when 
her  ports  interchanged  the  products  of  the  east  and  the  west,  is 
now  comparatively  a  mere  shadow.  The  exports  are  port  wine, 
salt,  wool,  and  some  fruit.  The  imports  are  grain,  salt  fish,  and 
a  variety  of  manufactures,  chiefly  from  Great  Britain.  The 
troubles,  revolutions,  and  civil  wars,  which  have  distracted  Por- 
tugal for  the  last  twenty  years,  have  depressed  not  only  the  com- 
merce of  the  country,  but  likewise  every  branch  of  national  in- 
dustry. 

The  established  and  exclusive  religion  is  the  Catholic.  The 
church  comprises  one  patriarch,  two  archbishops,  and  thirteen 
bishops.  There  were  in  Portugal  500  monasteries  and  convents, 
containing  about  11,000  monks  and  nuns;  but  these  establish- 
ments were  suppressed  in  1834.  Education  is  in  an  unimproved 
state,  and  nothing  has  been  done  for  the  instruction  of  the  lower 
class  of  the  inhabitants.  There  are  two  universities,  one  at  Coim- 
bra,  attended  by  about  800  students,  and  a  smaller  one  at  Evora. 
The  course  of  studies  in  these  institutions  is  of  an  obsolete 
description,  and  not  at  all  suited  to  the  spirit  and  wants  of  the 
present  times. 

The  arts  have  hardly  an  existence  in  this  country,  and  science 
and  learning  are  much  circumscribed.  All  the  best  foreign  works 
are  prohibited,  and  every  thing  published  is  subjected  to  a  strict 
censorship.  The  literature  of  Portugal,  during  the  period  of  its 
glory,  was  by  no  means  contemptible.  The  genius  and  fate  of 
Camoens  spread  his  name  throughout  Europe,  and  entitled  him 
to  rank  among  the  few  modern  epic  poets. 

The  Portuguese  are  of  the  same  origin  as  the  Spaniards,  but 
they  early  formed  an  independent  nation  and  a  separate  language. 
Although  there  exists  a  strong  mutual  dislike  between  the  two 

28  2L*.  425 


326  EUROPE. 

nations,  they  differ  little  in  character,  manners,  habits,  amuse- 
ments, and  social  condition.  The  peasantry  are  held  by  the 
nobles  in  a  state  but  little  short  of  bondage:  they  have  been 
usually  represented  as  indolent,  cowardly,  and  revengeful ;  but 
on  many  occasions  during  the  last  war  with  France,  they  dis- 
played qualities  not  unworthy  their  gallant  ancestors. 

The  government  of  Portugal  is  a  constitutional  hereditary 
monarchy,  but  it  has  undergone  various  changes  within  a  few 
years,  and  in  the  spring  of  1838  a  new  constitution  was  accepted 
by  the  queen.  The  revolutions  and  civil  wars  that  have  suc- 
ceeded each  other  within  the  last  15  or  20  years,  render  it  diffi- 
cult to  give  any  certain  account  of  the  revenue,  debt,  and  mili- 
tary forces  of  the  kingdom. 

This  country  is  divided  into  six  provinces,  several  of  which, 
like  those  of  Spain  in  reference  to  events  in  their  past  history, 
are  sometimes  called  kingdoms.  Population,  3,600,000.  The 
foreign  possessions  of  Portugal  are  the  Azore,  Madeira,  and  Cape 
Verde  Islands ;  Congo,  Angola,  Benguela,  and  Mozambique,  in 
Africa ;  Goa  and  Macao,  in  Asia ;  and  part  of  Timor,  in  Malaysia. 
The  population  of  these  is  estimated  at  1,632,000.  Total  of  the 
Portuguese  monarchy,  5,232,000. 

Lisbon,  the  capital  of  Portugal,  stands  on  the  Tagus,  ten  miles 
from  its  mouth.  The  harbour,  formed  by  the  expansion  of  the 
river,  is  nine  miles  wide,  and  is  one  of  the  finest  havens  in  the 
world.  The  interior  of  the  city  is  ill-built,  with  dirty,  narrow, 
and  crooked  streets,  yet  some  parts  of  modern  construction  are 
not  wanting  in  elegance.  There  are  13  large  squares,  the  finest 
of  which  is  the  Praca  do  Commercio ;  this  is  fronted  by  elegant 
buildings,  and  bordered  toward  the  river  by  the  handsomest  quays 
in  Europe. 

The  cathedral  is  magnificent,  and  remarkable  for  the  boldness 
of  its  dome.  The  royal  hospital  is  an  excellent  institution,  and 
there  is  a  large  foundling  hospital.  Lisbon  has  also  three  obser- 
vatories, many  colleges  and  academies,  180  churches  and  chapels, 
75  convents,  and  a  royal  library  of  80,000  volumes.  But  the 
most  remarkable  edifice  which  it  contains  is  the  aqueduct  of 
Bemfica  :  it  is  10  miles  in  length  ;  some  of  its  arches  are  200  feet' 
high  and  100  feet  wide.  Altogether  this  is  one  of  the  most  mag- 
nificent structures  that  have  been  erected  in  modern  times,  and 
is  not  inferior  to  any  ancient  work  of  the  same  kind.  There  are 
three  royal  palaces  in  Lisbon  and  the  neighbourhood,  and  around 
the  city  are  between  6000  and  7000  quintas,  or  country-houses. 
Population,  260,000. 

Oporto,  the  second  city  of  the  kingdom,  is  situated  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Douro  river.     Part  of  the  town  is  well  built,  espe- 


PORTUGAL. 


View  of  Lisbon,  the  Capital  of  Portugal. 
Lisbon,  anciently  Olisipo,  is  remarkable  for  the  injury  it  sustained  by  the  great  earthquake  on 
the  1st  November,  1755.    By  this  catastrophe,  the  greatest  that  ever  befell  a  modern  European 
city,  100  palaces,  churches  and  convents,  and  GOOO   houses,  were  destroyed,  30,000  of  the 
inhabitants  killed,  and  a  conflagration  kindled  which  spread  a  still  wider  destruction. 


View  of  Oporto,  Portugal. 


Mausoleum  of  King  John  I.,  in  the  Church  of  Batalha. 

John  I.,  the  Great,  the  Father  of  his  country,  was  one  of  the  best  of  the  Portuguese  mon- 

iirchs  ;  he  was  the  natural  son  of  Peter  I. ;  and  was  proclaimed  regent  on  his  brother's  death, 

in  1385,  and  king  in   1386;  the  same  year  he  obtained  a  great  victory  over  John  1.,  king  of 

Castile,  who  claimed  the  crown  of  Portugal  in  right  of  his  consort,  Beatrix,  daughter  of  Peter  I. 

427 


EUROPE. 


Church  at  Batalha,  Portugal,  52  miles  from  Lisbon. 

The  Church  at  Batalha  was  founded  by  King  John  I.,  near  500  years  ago.  It  is  541  feet  by 
416,  and  is  one  of  the  noblest  existing  specimens  of  the  Norman  Gothic  style.  The  building  is 
of  marble,  and  the  ornamental  work  is  unrivalled.  The  mausoleum  erected  to  King  John  is 
extremely  beautiful. 


Coimbra,  Portugal. 
Coimbra  was  built  by  the  Romans,  300  years  before  Christ.    It  was  once  strongly  fortified, 
and  was  for  a  time  the  residence  of  the  kings  of  Portugal. 


Portuguese  Female  Peasants. 
In  consequence  of  the  unimproved  state  of  the  roads  in  Portugal,  and  the  backwardness  of 
the  farmers  and  peasantry  in  the  use   of  wheel-carriages,  much  of  the  produce  of  the  soil, 
especially  in  the  vicinity  of  the  larger  towns,  is  carried  to  market  on  the  heads  of  the  females. 

428 


GERMANY.  327 

cially  when  compared  with  most  others  in  this  country.  The 
chief  dependence  of  Oporto  is  its  commerce  with  England,  which 
remains  unimpaired  amid  the  general  diminution  of  that  with 
America.  There  are  about  30  English  houses  regularly  settled 
here.  Oporto  has  a  great  trade  in  the  exportation  of  the  wine, 
called  port  wine;  besides  oranges,  lemons,  &c.  Population, 
70,000. 

Coimbra  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  Mondego  river,  about 
120  miles  from  Lisbon;  but  the  streets,  as  in  other  old  Portu- 
guese towns,  are  crowded,  dirty,  and  very  steep.  It  has  been 
called  the  Athens  of  Portugal,  from  its  university,  which  contains 
18  colleges,  with  40  professors,  and  a  large  number  of  students. 
Population,  15,000. 

St.  Ubes,  or  Setubal,  is  a  considerable  sea-port,  south  of  the 
Tagus:  it  exports  wine,  oil,  oranges,  and  salt;  of  the  last,  100,000 
tons  are  made  here  annually  :  population,  15,000.  Braga,  near 
the  northern  boundary,  has  some  fine  Roman  ruins :  population, 
14,000.  Elvas,  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  kingdom,  is  a  strongly 
fortified  town :  population,  10,000.  Evora,  in  the  south,  has 
many  Roman  remains,  among  which  is  a  temple  of  Diana,  now 
converted  into  public  shambles :  population,  10,000. 


GERMANY. 

Germany  is  an  extensive  country  in  the  centre  of  Europe, 
which  has  long  exercised  a  most  important  influence  on  the 
political  affairs  of  that  division  of  the  earth.  It  comprehends  the 
states  forming  the  Germanic  Confederation,  and  comprises  a 
variety  of  territories  strangely  intermingled  with  each  other. 
The  whole  region  stretches  from  the  Baltic  Sea  to  the  Gulf  of 
Venice  on  the  one  hand,  and  on  the  other  from  the  river  Rhine 
to  the  Oder;  being  600  miles  in  length,  and  550  in  breadth, 
including  an  area  of  251,000  square  miles. 

The  number  of  German  princes,  temporal  and  ecclesiastical, 
was  once  upwards  of  300,  each  independent  in  the  administration 
of  his  own  territory ;  but  subject  to  the  emperor  as  head  of  the 
empire,  and  to  certain  laws  enacted  at  different  times,  for  the 
common  advantage.  Before  the  French  revolution,  Germany 
comprehended  nine  great  divisions,  called  circles ;  but  by  the 
treaty  of  Vienna  in  1815,  it  was  divided  into  39  distinct  states. 

The  German  territories  now  comprise  about  one-third  part  of 
the  empire  of  Austria ;  the  greatest  part  of  Prussia ;  Holstein  and 
Lauenburg,  belonging  to  Denmark ;  Luxemburg,  belonging  to 


328  EUROPE. 

the  Netherlands ;  the  kingdoms  of  Hanover,  Bavaria,  Wirtem- 
berg,  and  Saxony;  with  27  smaller  independent  states,  governed 
by  native  German  princes  ;  and  four  free  cities. 

These  form  the  union  styled  the  Germanic  Confederation,  the 
object  of  which  is  to  provide  for  mutual  safety  and  defence.  Each 
state  is  independent  within  its  own  territory,  but  for  general  pur- 
poses the  whole  is  governed  by  the  Diet  of  Germany,  a  body 
composed  of  plenipotentiaries  and  deputies  from  the  different 
states. 

The  northern  parts  of  Germany  are  low  and  level,  while  the 
central  and  southern  districts  are  traversed  by  several  consider- 
able ranges  of  mountains :  the  principal  of  these  are  the  Hartz, 
Erzegeberg,  Riesengeberg,  Bohmer-Wald,  and  the  Alps. 

This  country  is  intersected  by  numerous  rivers,  which  afford 
great  advantages  for  internal  commerce.  Its  principal  streams, 
the  Danube,  Rhine,  Elbe,  Oder,  and  Weser,  rank  amongst  the 
most  important  in  Europe.  The  canals  are  comparatively  few : 
the  principal  are  the  canal  of  Kiel,  joining  the  Baltic  to  the  North 
Sea ;  the  canal  of  Travemunde,  extending  from  Lubeck  to  Ham- 
burg, and  some  others,  chiefly  in  the  Prussian  states. 

The  climate  in  the  north  of  Germany  is  rather  severe  ;  in  the 
south  mild,  and  generally  healthful,  except  in  the  marshy  districts 
on  the  coasts  of  the  North  Sea.  The  soil  of  this  country  is  very 
various ;  sandy  plains  and  barren  heaths  abound  in  the  north- 
east ;  swamps  and  marshes  in  the  north-west ;  but  large  portions 
of  the  interior  and  south-western  parts  are  uncommonly  fertile. 

Mining  is  one  of  the  sources  of  wealth  in  which  Germany  maybe 
said  to  surpass  every  other  country  in  Europe.  Nowhere  has  the 
science  been  more  studied,  or  brought  to  greater  perfection.  The 
principal  mining  districts  are  Styria  and  Carinthia,  in  Austria ; 
Silesia,  in  Prussia ;  the  Erzegeberg,  in  Saxony ;  and  the  Hartz, 
in  Hanover.  The  products  are  gold,  silver,  copper,  lead,  tin, 
iron,  mercury,  and  other  metals  :  salt  and  coal  also  abound,  and 
the  aggregate  amount  of  the  mineral  wealth  of  the  country  is 
immense.  Germany  contains  upwards  of  1000  mineral  springs 
and  baths,  of  which  the  most  celebrated  are  Carlsbad,  in  Bohe- 
mia ;  Toplitz,  in  Austria ;  Seltzer,  in  Nassau  ;  Pyrmont,  in  West- 
phalia ;  and  Aix  la  Chapelle. 

The  products  of  the  industry  of  this  country,  an  extensive 
region  cultivated  by  a  laborious  people,  are  of  large  amount. 
They  consist  of  plain,  solid,  somewhat  rough  articles ;  in  exchange 
for  which,  are  procured  the  finer  manufactures  of  England  and 
France,  and  the  delicate  productions  of  southern  Europe  and  the 
Indies. 


GERMANY.  329 

Agriculture,  throughout  the  whole  of  Germany,  is  carried  on 
with  great  industry,  though  not  with  the  same  skill  and  intelli- 
gence as  in  Great  Britain.  The  improved  processes  of  this  import- 
ant art,  however,  are  making  their  way,  though  slowly.  The 
cultivators  are  mostly  little  farmers  or  small  proprietors,  who  till 
the  ground  with  their  own  hands. 

Rye  is  the  grain  most  extensively  cultivated,  and  forms  the 
food  of  the  great  body  of  the  people.  Wheat  is  also  raised 
largely,  especially  in  Bavaria  and  Austria,  and  buckwheat  on  the 
sandy  tracts  of  northern  Germany.  Barley  and  oats  are  gene- 
ral, and  Indian-corn  abounds  in  Moravia  and  the  extreme  south- 
ern districts.  Peas,  beans,  lentils,  and  other  kinds  of  pulse,  are 
produced  in  great  abundance ;  also,  flax,  hops,  rape-seed,  &c. 
Wine  is  a  German  production ;  all  the  southern  districts,  as  far 
as  51  degrees  north,  produce  it,  but  only  some  of  the  Rhenish 
wines  are  in  much  request  abroad. 

The  commerce  of  Germany,  though  extensive,  is  not  equal  to 
that  which  formerly  existed.  She  was,  after  Italy,  the  first  Eu- 
ropean country  in  which  commerce  revived  ;  and  the  Hanseatic 
league  once  engrossed  the  whole  trade  of  the  north,  but  in  recent 
times  Germany  has  been  outstripped  by  Holland,  by  Britain,  and 
even  by  France.  The  shipping  is  chiefly  confined  to  Hamburg, 
Lubec,  and  Bremen,  the  remnant  of  the  Hanse  towns,  which  still 
enjoy  many  of  their  old  privileges  in  the  ports  of  Europe,  and 
whose  flag  is  seen  in  every  part  of  that  division  of  the  earth. 

A  commercial  league  has  lately  been  formed  by  the  principal 
states  of  Northern  and  Central  Germany,  for  the  purpose  of 
relieving  internal  commerce  from  the  restrictions  to  which  it  has 
been  subjected  by  the  numerous  customs-barriers  of  the  different 
powers.  The  parties  to  this  league  agree  to  the  suppression  of 
all  duties  upon  the  internal  commerce  between  their  respective 
territories,  and  establish  a  common  frontier,  with  a  common  rate 
of  duties,  in  reference  to  their  external  commerce  with  other 
states.  Prussia,  Bavaria,  Baden,  Wirtemberg,  Saxony,  the  Saxon 
duchies,  the  Hesses,  Nassau,  Frankfort,  and  several  other  small 
states,  have  already  joined  this  league,  which  thus  comprises  a 
population  of  about  20,500,000. 

The  exports  of  Germany  include  grain  of  various  kinds ;  salted 
provisions,  especially  hams ;  live  cattle  and  hogs ;  timber,  iron 
and  steel ;  lead,  salt,  linen,  woollens,  porcelain,  glass,  ashes,  &c. 
In  return  for  these  essential  articles,  she  receives  nearly  all  the 
luxuries  of  life  ;  the  manufactures  of  Britain,  the  wines  of  France, 
the  sweets  and  aromatics  of  the  east  and  west ;  also  dye-stuffs, 
and  all  the  cotton  and  silk  which  are  necessary  for  her  own 
manufactures.  The  internal  commerce  of  Germany,  notwith- 
28  *  431 


330  EUROPE. 

standing  all  the  obstructions  under  which  it  labours,  is  extensive. 
It  owes  this  advantage  chiefly  to  its  noble  rivers,  on  which  ves- 
sels of  large  burden  can  pass  nearly  from  one  extremity  to  the 
other. 

Though  the  manufactures  of  Germany  are  now  less  extensive 
than  those  of  Great  Britain  or  France,  yet  they  are  still  highly 
important.  The  chief  fabric  is  linen,  which  is  produced  to  some 
extent  in  Prussia,  Hanover,  Brunswick,  &c. ;  the  others  are  wool- 
lens, printed  cottons,  manufactures  of  leather,  porcelain,  glass, 
refined  sugar,  musical  and  mathematical  instruments,  clocks, 
watches,  toys,  cutlery,  &c. 

Germany  has  no  great  capital,  like  France  and  England,  in 
which  the  wealth,  power,  and  civilization  of  the  state,  are  as  it 
were  concentrated.  On  the  other  hand,  no  country  in  Europe 
has  so  many  cities  and  towns  of  from  3000  to  5000  inhabitants. 

The  people  of  this  region  consist  of  two  distinct  races,  the  Ger- 
man and  Sclavonian.  The  Germans  are  estimated  at  30,000,000, 
and  are  divided  into  two  families,  High  and  Low  German,  dis- 
tinguished less  by  physical  differences  than  by  character,  and 
particularly  by  the  mode  of  pronouncing  the  language.  The 
Sclavonic  race  is  reckoned  at  6,000,000.  They  are  much  in- 
ferior in  civilization  to  the  Germans,  but  are  a  laborious  people, 
formerly  almost  all  in  a  state  of  bondage,  but  now  mostly  eman- 
cipated, and  many  of  them  possessing  considerable  wealth.  Be- 
sides these  leading  races,  there  are  a  number  of  Italians,  some 
French,  and  from  250,000  to  300,000  Jews,  comprising  altoge- 
ther a  population  of  37,000,000. 

The  Germans  are  distinguished  for  their  attainments  in  litera- 
ture, science,  and  the  arts.  They  are  particularly  eminent  in 
biblical  and  critical  learning,  statistics,  political  economy,  ma- 
thematics, astronomy,  chemistry,  and  mechanics.  No  part  of 
Europe  probably  can  boast  so  many  learned  men  and  celebrated 
authors. 

This  country  is  famous  for  its  universities,  which  are  much 
resorted  to  from  other  countries.  The  number  before  1802  was 
36  ;  since  that  period  several  have  been  suppressed,  and  the  pre- 
sent number  is  20.  Of  those  which  stand  in  the  first  rank  are 
Gottingen,  Halle,  Jena,  Leipsic,  and  Heidelburg.  Vienna  is  the 
most  eminent  as  a  medical  school. 

In  about  150  towns  there  are  libraries  open  to  the  public,  many 
of  which  are  very  large;  besides  the  universities,  there  are  nume- 
rous seminaries,  styled  gymnasia,  many  of  which  are  celebrated 
schools  of  learning.  The  German  language  is  spoken  by  a 
greater  population  than  any  other  in  Europe,  except  perhaps  the 
French.     It  is  derived  from  the  Teutonic,  and  is  divided  into  a 


GERMANY.  331 

number  of  dialects.  The  Saxon  dialect,  called  High  German,  is 
the  language  of  books  and  genteel  society. 

In  regard  to  religion,  Germany  has  been  the  scene  of  the 
greatest  revolution  in  modern  times.  In  its  bosom  the  reforma- 
tion sprung  up ;  and  within  it  were  carried  on  the  most  formida- 
ble of  the  conflicts  between  the  old  and  the  new  system.  Else- 
where, one  or  the  other  finally  prevailed ;  but  in  Germany  they 
have  settled  into  nearly  an  equal  division  of  the  country.  Speak- 
ing generally,  the  whole  south  may  be  called  Catholic  ;  the  whole 
north,  Protestant.  Of  the  greater  states,  the  Catholic  religion 
rules  in  Austria  and  Bavaria  ;  the  Protestant,  in  Prussia,  Saxony, 
Hesse,  and  Hanover.  A  complete  toleration  is  now  everywhere 
granted  to  every  profession.  The  Catholics  still  hold  the  majority, 
being  reckoned  at  20,000,000  ;  the  Protestants,  16,000,000 ; 
Jews,  Moravians,  Mennonites,  Hussites,  and  some  smaller  sects, 
make  up  the  rest  of  the  population. 

The  Germans  are  generally  a  frugal,  industrious,  and  perse- 
vering race.  The  habits  of  the  mass  of  the  people  are  simple 
and  domestic,  and  honesty  and  fidelity  usually  distinguish  their 
transactions.  To  their  ingenuity  the  world  is  indebted  for  the 
important  inventions  of  printing,  watches,  gunpowder,  and  litho- 
graphy, besides  a  number  of  less  important  matters. 

The  lower  classes  are  deficient  in  enterprise,  and  adhere  closely 
to  ancient  habits  and  usages ;  and  in  some  quarters  they  are  still 
very  ignorant,  and  adverse  to  improvement.  All  ranks  are  much 
attached  to  music,  and  the  German  composers  have  produced 
works  of  the  highest  order  in  that  delightful  science.  Dancing 
is  the  principal  national  amusement,  and  in  the  form  of  the  waltz, 
is  pursued  with  enthusiastic  ardour. 

Society  in  Germany  is  very  distinctly  separated  into  the  two 
great  classes  of  the  nobility  and  common  people  :  the  former  are 
further  divided  into  the  higher  and  lower  nobility ;  and  also  into 
another  distinction,  that  of  the  old  nobility,  who  must  count  at 
least  16  noble  ancestors,  and  of  the  young  or  short  nobility. 

The  character  of  the  Germans  is  very  military,  a  quality 
derived  in  part  from  their  warlike  ancestors,  and  partly  from  their 
country  having  been  the  theatre  of  nearly  all  the  great  contests 
which  have  been  waged  in  Europe.  The  music  of  military  bands, 
and  the  measured  tread  of  stately  soldiers,  are  common  sounds  in 
the  cities  of  Germany. 

The  ordinary  concerns  of  the  Germanic  Confederation  are 
entrusted  to  a  federal  diet  of  17  members,  and  the  making  or 
altering  of  its  fundamental  laws,  to  a  general  assembly  of  70 
members,  from  the  various  states  or  members  of  the  confedera- 

2M  433 


332 


EUROPE. 


tion.     The  sessions  are  held  at  Frankfort  on  the  Mayne.     The 
members  are  equal  in  rights,  but  Austria  presides. 

The  following  table  gives  a  general  view  of  the  states  of  the 
Germanic  Confederacy,  with  their  extent  and  population. 


GERMAN  STATES. 


States. 

Austria 

Prussia   

Bavaria 

Wirtemberg . 

Hanover  

Saxony  

Baden    

Hesse-Cassel    

Hesse-Darmstadt 

Hesse-Homburg   

Holstein,   &c.  (To    Den 

mark) 

Luxemburg  (To  Belgium) 

Saxe-Weimar   

Saxe-Coburg-Gotha 

Saxe-Altenburg   

Saxe-Meiningen-Hilburg 

ha u si- ii  

Brunswick  

Mecklenburg-Schwerin 
Mecklenburg-Strelitz  . . , 
Oldenburg , 


Sq.  M.  | 

Population. 

78,451 

11,840,000 

70,549 

10,160,000 

31, 'Jit? 

4,080,000 

7,770 

1,600.000 

14,720 

1,600,000 

7,200 

1,500,000 

5,800 

1,200,000 

4,352 

650,000 

3,600 

740,000 

138 

24,000 

3,691 

410,000 

2,347 

305,000 

1,408 

232,000 

1,024 

156,000 

491 

114,000 

875 

130,000 

1,514 

250,000 

4,755 

450.000 

768 

84,000 

2,752 

252,000 

States. 

Nassau    

Anhalt  Dessau  

Anhalt-Bernburg  

Anhalt-Cothen  

Schwartzburg — Sonders 

hausen 

Schwartzburg-Rudolstadt 
Hohenzollern-Hechingen 
Hohenzollern-.Sigmarin- 

gen  

Lichtenstein   

Reuss-Greitz  

Reuss-Schleitz 

Lippe-Detmold  

Lippe-Schauenburg  .... 

Waldeck  

Kniphausen 

Frankfort 

Lubec 

Bremen  

Hamburg 


Sq.  M.  ]  Population. 

2,164   356,000 

363    60,000 


340 
331 

384 

448 

117 

426 
53 

153 
153 

m 

213 

459 
17 

113 

122 
72 

134 


40,000 
36,000 

52,000 
60,000 
16,000 

39,000 
6,000 
25,000 
59,000 
78,000 
26,000 
56,000 
3,000 
55,000 
47,000 
59,000 
150,000 


251,000  37,000,000 


AUSTRIA. 

The  Empire  of  Austria  is  not  only  the  first  power  in  Germany, 
but  has  long  ranked  among  the  most  important  of  the  European 
States.  Nearly  one-third  of  its  territories  are  in  Germany ;  the 
residue  comprise  Hungary,  with  its  appendages,  Galicia,  formerly 
a  part  of  Poland,  and  the  Lombardo- Venetian  kingdom  in  Italy, 
together  with  Dalmatia,  once  a  part  of  the  territory  belonging 
to  the  Republic  of  Venice.  The  Austrian  monarchy  is  bounded 
on  the  east  by  Turkey  and  Russia ;  on  the  north  by  Prussia  and 
Saxony;  on  the  west  chiefly  by  Bavaria,  Switzerland,  and  Sar- 
dinia ;  and  on  the  south  by  Tuscany  and  the  States  of  the  Church. 
The  whole  territory  amounts  to  259,000  square  miles. 

The  face  of  the  country  is  various  :  Styria,  the  Tyrol,  and 
Illyria,  are  mountainous  ;  Bohemia  and  Moravia  are  encompassed 
by  mountains,  and  the  Carpathian  range  extends  along  the  north- 
east of  Hungary.  A  large  portion  of  the  soil  is  fertile,  especially 
in  Lombardy  and  Hungary.  The  Danube  flows  through  the 
whole  extent  of  the  empire,  first  from  west  to  east  and  then  from 
north  to  south.  The  other  principal  rivers  are  the  Dniester, 
Theiss,  Save,  Drave,  Inn,  Po,  and  Adige.     The  lakes  are  the 

434 


GERMANY.  333 

Platten-see  and  Neusidler-see,  in  Hungary  ;  Traun-see  and  Atter- 
see,  in  Austria  Proper ;  Cirknitz,  in  Carinthia ;  and  Garda  and 
Como,  in  Lombard}'. 

This  country  has  but  a  small  extent  of  sea-coast  and  a  limited 
commerce.  It  has  no  foreign  colonies  ;  but  the  duchies  of  Tus- 
cany, Parma,  and  Modena,  in  Italy,  are  dependent  states.  Trieste 
is  the  principal  sea-port,  and  displays  considerable  commercial 
activity.  Fiume  is  the  inlet  to  the  Hungarian  provinces,  and 
Ragusa  to  Dalmatia.  The  inland  trade  of  the  empire  is  active 
and  flourishing. 

The  Austrian  territories  abound  in  various  articles  both  of 
necessity  and  luxury ;  grain  of  various  kinds,  wine,  cattle,  horses, 
&c.  The  imports  consist  mostly  of  raw  materials,  as  wool, 
cotton,  raw  silk,  rice,  oil,  drugs,  spices,  &c.  The  manufactures 
are  chiefly  of  thread,  cotton,  linen,  lace,  silk-stuffs,  stockings, 
spirituous  liquors,  wrought-iron,  steel  and  brass ;  glass,  porce- 
lain, earthenware,  &c. 

The  chief  mineral  productions  are  gold,  copper,  iron,  quick- 
silver or  mercury,  and  salt.  The  salt-mines  of  Wieliczca  in 
Galicia  have  been  worked  for  600  years,  but  still  appear  inex- 
haustible. They  are  1500  feet  in  depth,  and  have  a  great  extent 
under  ground,  comprising  numerous  long  galleries,  halls,  chapels, 
&c.  The  quicksilver  mines  of  Idria  are  the  richest  of  the  kind 
in  Europe,  and  yield  near  a  million  pounds  of  quicksilver  and 
cinnabar  annually. 

The  established  religion  is  the  Roman  Catholic,  but  general 
toleration  is  granted ;  and  members  of  the  Protestant  and  Greek 
churches  are  numerous  in  Hungary,  Transylvania,  and  Sclavo- 
nia,  where  they  enjoy  considerable  privileges. 

The  government  is  a  monarchy,  nearly  absolute,  except  in  some 
of  the  states,  particularly  Hungary  and  Transylvania,  where  it 
is  limited  by  constitutional  provisions.  The  principal  univerities 
are  those  of  Vienna,  Prague,  Pest,  Lemberg,  Padua,  and  Pavia. 
Academies  and  gymnasiums  are  numerous.  Though  Austria  can 
boast  of  some  distinguished  names,  yet  in  regard  to  literature  she 
is  greatly  behind  the  north  of  Germany.  The  national  educa- 
tion is  extremely  deficient,  and  there  are  many  restraints  upon 
the  liberty  of  the  press  and  freedom  of  speech. 

The  Austrian  army  is  large,  amounting  to  upward  of  270,000 
men,  and  though  respectable  for  its  discipline,  has  not  generally 
ranked  high  for  efficiency.  In  time  of  war  the  empire  can  main- 
tain a  military  force  of  615,000  men.  Austria  possesses  no  ad- 
vantages for  a  navy,  yet  an  armament  of  about  30  vessels  of  war 
has  been  organized  in  the  Gulf  of  Venice,  and  an  armed  flotilla 
is  maintained  on  the  Danube. 

435 


331 


EUROPE. 


The  inhabitants  of  the  empire  belong  to  several  distinct  nations, 
comprising  Germans,  Poles,  Hungarians,  Italians,  Jews,  Gypsies, 
&c.  ;  besides  several  less  prominent  races,  as  the  Tcheches  or 
Bohemians,  the  Slawakes  in  Moravia  and  Hungary,  the  Wends 
in  Styria,  Illyria,  and  the  Tyrol,  with  the  Croats,  Dalmatians,  and 
Morlachians,  in  the  southern  provinces. 

The  following  statement  exhibits  the  areas  in  square  miles 
and  the  population  of  the  different  divisions  of  the  Austrian 
empire  : 


j  (  Austria 

•s  |  Styria 

«  j  Illyria 

1 1  Tyrol 

|  j  Bohemia 

0  (.Moravia 

Hungary 

Total  of  Hereditary  States 


Sq.  M. 

Population. 

14,992 

2,031,136 

8,531 

839,128 

13,130 

1,138,506 

11,704 

776,390 

20,872 

3,748,361 

1 1,804 

1,994,850 

78,774 

9,659,686 

159,823 

20,188,057 

Croatia 

Sclavonia 

Transylvania 

Dalmatia 

Galicia 

Military  Frontier  ... 

Lombardo-Venetian 

Kingdom 

Total  of  the  Empire  , 


Sq.  M. 

Population. 

3,756 

614,000 

3,678 

348,000 

22,376 

2,000,000 

6,498 

329,727 

32,000 

4,297,901 

12,335 

923,315 

18,534 

4,300,000 

259,000 

33,000,000 

The  German  territories  belonging  to  the  Austrian  Emperor 
consist  of  the  archduchy  of  Austria,  Bohemia,  Moravia,  Styria, 
Illyria,  and  Tyrol:  these,  with  Hungary,  are  known  under  the 
appellation  of  the  Hereditary  States. 

Vienna  is  the  capital  of  the  Austrian  empire,  and  the  largest 
city  in  Germany.  It  stands  on  the  south  side  of  the  Danube, 
and  consists  of  two  distinct  parts,  the  city  and  the  suburbs,  which 
are  strongly  contrasted  in  their  appearance.  The  city  is  meanly 
built,  with  narrow,  irregular  streets,  and  is  surrounded  with  walls 
and  bastions. 

The  suburbs  consist  of  wide  streets,  elegant  buildings,  and 
beautiful  gardens.  The  Prater  is  a  fine  level  park,  on  an  island 
in  the  Danube,  forming  a  delightful  public  walk,  which  is  fre- 
quented by  all  ranks  of  people  in  the  summer.  The  cathedral 
of  St.  Stephen  is  an  immense  Gothic  edifice,  with  a  spire  452  feet 
high :  the  painted  glass  of  its  windows  renders  the  interior 
gloomy.  The  buildings  are  generally  of  freestone.  There  are 
many  excellent  libraries,  of  which  the  Imperial  is  the  largest, 
and  contains  above  300,000  volumes.  There  are  50  churches, 
17  monasteries  and  nunneries,  5  theatres,  and  a  garrison  of  10 
or  12,000  men.  The  citizens  are  described  as  a  good-natured, 
hospitable  people,  much  devoted  to  pleasure  and  luxurious  living. 
Population,  300,000. 

Salzburg,  in  Lower  Austria,  is  situated  on  a  branch  of  the  Inn, 
in  a  mountainous  country.  The  neighbourhood  produces  great 
quantities  of  salt.     Population,  13,000. 

Lintz,  the  capital  of  Upper  Austria,  situated  on  the  Danube,  is 


AUSTRIA. 


View  in  Vienna,  the  Capital  of  the  Austrian  Empire. 


Square  of  the  Imperial  Palace,  Vienna. 


Cathedral  of  St.  Stephen. 


Cathedral  of  St.  Lorenzo. 


The  Cathedrals  of  St.  Stephen  and  St.  Lorenzo,  in  Vienna,  arc  fine  large  Gothic  structures. 
The  first  datea  from  the  year  1270;  its  tower  is  45J  feet  high.  Monuments  o  princes,  generals, 
high  dignitaries  of  the  church,  interesting  pictures,  and  38  altars,  adorn  its  interior. 

2  M  *  437 


EUROPE. 


View  in  Prague,  Bohemia. 


View  in  Salsburg,  Lower  Austria. 


Buda  and  Pest,  Hungary. 

Buda  and  Pest  are  situated,  the  first  on  the  west,  and  the  other  on  the  east  hank  of  the 
Danube.  They  are  often  considered  as  one  town,  being  joined  together  by  a  bridge  or  boats. 
Buda  consists  of  an  extensive  fortress  built  on  a  high  rock,  with  a  number  of  streets  on  the 
bank  of  the  river.    Pest  is  situated  on  a  plain,  and  is  the  largest  of  the  two  towns 

433 


GERMANY.  335 

a  well-built  city ;  and  its  fine  square,  considerable  castle,  three 
monasteries,  and  bridge  of  800  feet  long  over  the  Danube,  give 
it  a  very  handsome  appearance.  It  has  a  considerable  imperial 
manufactory  of  woollen.     Population,  20,000. 

Gratz,  the  capital  of  Styria,  is  situated  on  the  river  Mur,  and 
is  a  handsome,  bustling  and  prosperous  town.  It  contains  many 
houses  which  may  be  called  palaces,  and  ranks  third  in  the  here- 
ditary dominions.  Population,  40,000.  Its  old  walls  and  castle, 
situated  on  a  high  rock,  no  longer  suffice  to  render  it  a  fortified 
city.  The  church  of  St.  Catherine  and  the  monument  of  Fer- 
dinand II.  are  its  chief  ornaments.  Its  lyceum  has  twenty-six 
professors,  and  a  library  of  70,000  volumes. 

Laybach,  the  capital  of  lllyria,  stands  about  30  miles  from  the 
Gulf  of  Venice  ;  it  is  famous  for  a  congress  of  European  sove- 
reigns held  here  in  1820.     Population,  12,000. 

Trieste,  seated  at  the  head  of  the  Gulf  of  Venice,  is  the  greatest 
sea-port  of  the  Austrian  empire :  its  trade  is  very  active,  and 
extends  to  the  north  of  Europe  and  the  United  States.  Its  har- 
bour is  large  and  safe.  Most  of  the  European  nations  have  con- 
suls here.     Population,  50,000. 

Innspruck,  the  capital  of  the  Tyrol,  is  situated  on  the  river 
Inn  ;  it  is  an  ancient  and  important  town,  with  12,000  inhabitants. 
Hall,  farther  down  on  the  same  stream,  flourishes  by  its  large 
mines  of  salt.  Trent,  on  the  Adige,  and  near  the  borders  of 
Italy,  is  a  fine  old  city,  celebrated  for  the  ecclesiastical  council 
held  there  in  1545-1562,  which  had  so  signal  an  influence  on  the 
political  destinies  of  Europe.  Roveredo  and  Botzen  are  both 
considerable  towns. 

Prague,  the  capital  of  Bohemia,  is  a  well-built  ana  flourishing 
city,  situated  on  the  Moldau,  over  which  is  an  elegant  bridge. 
Its  university  is  the  oldest  in  Germany.  Here  are  100  churches 
and  chapels,  and  as  many  palaces,  among  which  is  that  of  Wal- 
lenstein,  celebrated  by  the  pen  of  Schiller :  the  stable  of  this 
palace  is  a  magnificent  edifice,  with  stalls  for  36  horses,  divided 
by  marble  pillars  and  furnished  with  racks  of  steel  and  marble 
mangers.  The  city  has  some  manufactures,  and  the  neighbour- 
hood is  fertile  and  pleasant.     Population,  121,000. 

Brunn  and  Olmutz,  in  Moravia,  are  both  strong  fortresses,  and 
barriers  of  the  empire.  The  former,  containing  38,000  inhabit- 
ants, is  the  seat  of  government,  and  has  extensive  manufactures 
of  fine  woollens.  Olmutz  is  a  great  market  for  Russian  and 
Hungarian  cattle.  Iglau,  an  open  town,  has  considerable  manu- 
factures, and  is  the  greatest  thoroughfare  in  the  country.  The 
two  last  places  have  each  12,000  inhabitants. 

Buda,  the  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  Hungary,  lies  on  the  right 


336  EUROPE. 

bank  of  the  Danube.  It  is  the  residence  of  the  palatine,  and 
seat  of  the  supreme  government.  Population,  38,000.  Pest, 
the  finest  town  in  the  kingdom,  stands  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Danube,  and  is  united  with  Buda  by  a  bridge  of  boats.  It  has  a 
university  with  four  faculties,  and  a  library  of  50,000  volumes. 
Population,  60,000.  Presburg,  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Danube, 
contains  a  Catholic  college  and  a  Lutheran  gymnasium.  Popu- 
lation, 40,000.  Debretzin,  with  42,000  inhabitants,  is,  next  to 
Pest,  the  most  important  commercial  town  of  Hungary.  Szege- 
din,  at  the  junction  of  the  Theiss  with  its  tributary,  the  Maros,  is 
a  large  and  strong  city,  with  30,000  inhabitants,  and  a  flourish- 
ing trade  in  wool  and  tobacco. 

Schemnitz,  Kremnitz,  and  Neusohl,  are  the  principal  mining 
towns  in  Hungary.  Schemnitz  was  founded  in  745,  and  has  a 
population  of  22,000  inhabitants,  one  half  of  whom  are  em- 
ployed in  the  mines.  Kremnitz  and  Neusohl  have  each  about 
10,0U0  inhabitants,  the  majority  of  whom  are  also  employed  in 
mining  operations.  Raab,  or  Gyoi,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Raab 
and  the  Danube,  contains  16,000  inhabitants.  Kaschau,  in  the 
north-east  part  of  Hungary,  near  the  Carpathian  mountains, 
contains  6000  inhabitants.  Temeswar  is  situated  on  a  canal 
which  connects  it  with  the  Danube,  and  is  finely  built  and  strongly 
fortified.  Population,  12,000.  Tokay,  a  small  town  of  5000 
inhabitants,  situated  on  the  Theiss,  is  celebrated  for  its  wine, 
being  esteemed  the  best  in  Hungary. 

Mishkoltz  has  an  active  trade  in  grain,  wine,  and  leather ;  in 
its  vicinity  are  numerous  forges,  glass-works,  and  paper-mills. 
Population,  30,000.  Theresienstadt  and  Ketskemet,  both  situ- 
ated between  the  Danube  and  Theiss,  are  large  towns  with  ex- 
tensive manufactures  of  various  kinds  :  the  former  has  40,000, 
and  the  latter  34,000  inhabitants. 

Hermanstadt,  the  capital  of  Transylvania,  is  surrounded  with 
a  double  wall,  and  contains  18,000  inhabitants,  an  extensive  Lu- 
theran seminary,  two  public  libraries  comprising  20,000  volumes, 
a  picture-gallery,  and  a  national  museum.  Cronstadt,  on  the 
most  eastern  frontier,  is  a*still  larger  place,  containing  27,000 
inhabitants,  with  various  manufactures,  and  enjoying  an  extensive 
intercourse  with  Turkey.  Clausenburg,  80  miles  north  of  Her 
manstadt,  is  a  large  open  town,  containing  three  seminaries 
Catholic,  Lutheran,  and  Unitarian,  attended  by  about  1200  stu 
dents.  Population,  20,000.  Carlsburg  is  a  smaller  town,  de 
fended  by  a  strong  castle,  on  a  hill  above  the  Maros.  Popula 
tion,  6,000. 

Lemberg,  the  capital  of  Galicia,  is  an  important  city,  and  car- 
ries on  an  extensive  commerce.     Its  interior  streets  are  narrow 


GERMANY. 


Krcmnitz,  Hungary. 

Kremnitz,  the  oldest  mining  town  in  Hungary,  is  noted  for  its  gold  and  silver  mines.  The 
com  called  Kremnitz  ducat  has  long  been  well  known  for  its  purity.  Much  gold  and  silver 
from  these  mines  is  coined  in  Vienna. 


ill-  - 


Roman  Amphitheatre,  at  Pola,  in  Illyria,  Southern  Austria. 

Pola,  the  ancient  Pietas  Julia,  forty-four  miles  south  of  Trieste,  contains  several  interesting 
antiquities,  the  principal  of  which  is  a  large  Roman  amphitheatre  in  good  preservation.  It  is 
366  feet  by  2i)2,  and  is  estimated  to  have  been  sufficiently  spacious  to  contain  18,000  persons. 


View  of  Spalatro,  Dalmatia. 

Spalatro,  on  the  Gulf  of  Venice,  is  an  ancient  town,  with  lofty  houses  and  narrow  irregulaj 
streets.    Here  are  the  remains  of  a  superb  palace  of  the  Roman  Emperor  Dioctestau. 

441 


EUROPE 


Hungarian  Farm- Yard. 


View  in  Augsburg,  Bavaria. 


Cathedral  at  Ulm,  in  Wirtember 


Cathedral  at  Ralisbon.  in  Bavaria. 


Tbe  Cathedral  at  Ulm  and  that  at  Ratisbon  are  boih  ancient  and  well-known  Gothic  struc- 
tures. Of  the  first,  the  interior  is  in  a  noble  and  imposing  style  of  architecture ;  it  is  adorned 
with  many  pictures  of  the  old  German  masters. 

442 


GERMANY.  337 

and  old-fashioned,  yet  it  has  four  handsome  suburbs.  It  contains 
52,000  inhabitants,  20,000  of  whom  are  Jews.  The  frontier 
town  of  Brody  contains  22,000  inhabitants,  of  whom  more  than 
a  third  are  Jews.  The  other  towns-  of  Galicia  contain  only 
about  5000  or  6000  inhabitants  each.  Sambor  and  Drohobits, 
on  the  Dniester,  have  some  manufactures  and  trade,  chiefly  car- 
ried on  by  Jews.  Tarnopol,  farther  to  the  north,  is  tolerably 
flourishing.  Bochnia  and  Wieliczca,  entirely  supported  by  the 
salt-mines,  contain  each  about  6000  inhabitants. 

Zara,  the  capital  of  Dalmatia,  has  a  good  harbour,  and  is 
strongly  fortified.  Population,  7000.  Ragusa,  situated  in  the 
most  southern  extremity  of  the  Austrian  dominions,  contains 
10,000  inhabitants.  It  was  once  the  capital  of  a  small  republic; 
and  has  suffered  greatly  from  earthquakes 


PRUSSIA. 

Prussia  was  first  erected  into  a  kingdom  in  1701,  and  has  at 
different  times  acquired  large  accessions  of  territory,  and,  from  a 
small  and  feeble  state,  has  become  one  of  the  most  powerful  mo- 
narchies of  Europe.  The  kingdom  of  Prussia  comprises  two 
great  political  divisions,  1st,  Prussia  Proper,  the  original  territory 
of  the  monarchy,  and  the  grand  duchy  of  Posen,  formerly  be- 
longing to  Poland ;  2d,  the  German  provinces  of  Brandenburg. 
Pomerania,  Silesia,  Saxony,  Westphalia,  and  the  Rhine  :  the  two 
last  form  a  detached  western  portion,  separated  from  the  rest  by 
the  dominions  of  Hanover,  Hesse,  and  Saxony.  Prussia  has 
also  in  Switzerland  the  small  principality  of  Neufchatel.  The 
eastern  division  of  the  kingdom  contains  88,000,  and  the  western 
19,000  square  miles  ;  total,  107,000.  The  population  amounted 
in  1740  to  3,000,000 ;  in  1790,  to  6,000,000,  and  at  present  is 
estimated  at  14,000,000. 

A  level  surface  predominates  throughout  the  Prussian  States ; 
the  country  abounds  in  marshes,  lakes,  and  rivers  of  slow  cur- 
rent. The  great  mountain  tracts,  the  Hartz,  in  Saxony,  and  the 
Riesengeberg,  a  branch  of  the  Sudetic  chain,  in  Silesia,  are  near 
the  outskirts  of  the  kingdom. 

Prussia  is  a  favoured  country  with  regard  to  water  communi- 
cation in  its  interior.  The  Baltic  forms  a  number  of  bays,  or 
rather  lakes,  along  its  coast ;  as  the  Frische,  Curische,  Putzig, 
and  Stettin  Hafs ;  and  there  is  a  number  of  navigable  rivers,  of 
which  the  principal  are  the  Niemen,  Pregel,  Vistula,  Oder,  Elbe, 
Weser,  and  the  Rhine.  There  are  several  useful  canals,  and 
29  *» 


338  EUROPE. 

many  small  lakes.     The  principal  islands  are  Rugen  and  Use- 
dom,  in  the  Baltic  Sea. 

The  soil  in  some  parts  is  good,  but  in  general  it  is  by  no  means 
fertile,  being  often  sandy  and  covered  with  heath.  The  produc- 
tions are  wheat,  oats,  barley,  potatoes,  flax,  hemp,  hops,  cattle, 
sheep,  horses,  &c.  The  mineral  productions  are  iron,  copper, 
lead,  vitriol,  alum,  salt,  coal,  and  especially  amber,  of  which  200 
tons  are  annually  collected. 

The  commerce  of  Prussia,  though  conducted  with  some  advan- 
tages, both  maritime  and  inland,  is  in  an  early  stage.  The  ex- 
ports consist  of  the  manufactures  of  the  country,  grain,  wool, 
timber,  pitch,  tar,  potash,  linseed,  cattle,  horses,  &c.  The  amount 
is  stated  at  22  million,  and  the  imports  at  about  18  million  dol- 
lars. 

Prussia,  though  more  an  agricultural  than  a  trading  country, 
has  districts  of  great  activity  in  manufactures.  Silesia  and  West- 
phalia have  long  been  noted  for  their  linens.  Other  fabrics  are 
woollens,  hardware,  leather,  earthenware,  glass,  paper,  tobacco, 
&c.  Cotton-printing  works  have  lately  been  introduced,  and 
orewing  is  a  branch  of  great  importance.  The  annual  value  of 
the  manufactures  is  about  35  million  dollars. 

The  government  of  Prussia  is  a  military  monarchy,  nearly 
absolute.  There  are  now  assemblies  for  each  province  in  the 
kingdom;  but  their  powers  are  extremely  limited,  and  their  de- 
bates secret. 

The  religion  of  the  royal  family  is  the  Calvinistic  ;  but  there  is 
no  restriction  in  that  respect ;  all  sects  being  tolerated,  and  on  an 
equal  footing.  In  1817,  the  Lutherans  and  Calvinists  of  Prussia 
formed  a  union  under  the  name  of  Evangelical  Christians,  and 
they  constitute  more  than  one-half  the  population  ;  the  remainder 
comprises  Catholics,  Jews,  Moravians,  Baptists,  Unitarians,  &c. 

The  universities  are  those  of  Berlin,  Halle,  Breslaw,  Konigs- 
berg,  Bonn,  and  Griefswalde.  Gymnasiums  and  other  institutions 
are  numerous,  and  there  are  upwards  of  22,000  common  or 
primary  schools,  to  which  all  subjects  are  required  by  law  to  send 
their  children  after  they  reach  a  certain  age.  There  is  hardly 
any  country  in  the  world,  where  the  system  of  public  education 
is  so  extensive  and  regularly  organized. 

Prussia  is  famous  for  the  military  discipline  of  its  army.  The 
total  number  of  troops  under  arms  in  1815,  exceeded  200,000. 
They  have  been  since  somewhat  reduced,  and  at  present  amount 
to  about  140,000  men.  They  are  recruited,  by  conscription, 
from  the  class  of  young  men  between  twenty  and  twenty-five 
years  of  age,  who  are  all  liable  to  be  called  upon  for  three  years' 
service.     The  Landwehr  consists  of  all  the  able-bodied  men  un- 


GERMANY.  339 

der  forty  years,  if  not  in  the  army,  and  may  be  called  into  ser- 
vice in  the  event  of  a  war.  The  Landsturm  are  those  above  forty, 
able  to  carry  arms.  The  Landvvehr  and  Landsturm  amount  to 
407,000  ;  making  the  whole  war  establishment  547,000  men. 

Berlin,  the  capital  of  Prussia,  stands  on  the  river  Spree  ;  with 
its  suburbs  it  is  12  miles  in  circumference,  and  is  the  finest  city  in 
Germany.  Its  streets  are  generally  broad  and  straight,  adorned 
with  spacious  and  regular  squares  and  handsome  houses  built 
mostly  of  white  freestone.  The  Linden-strasse  or  street,  one  of 
the  handsomest  in  Europe,  is  planted  with  lime-trees,  and  its  edi- 
fices comprise  palaces,  theatres,  churches,  &c,  principally  of  an 
elegant  and  classical  style  of  building.  The  royal  palace  is  a 
superb  structure  containing  many  splendid  apartments  and  the 
richest  service  of  plate  probably  belonging  to  any  sovereign  in 
the  world. 

Berlin  comprises  five  separate  towns  or  districts,  one  of  which 
occupies  an  island  formed  by  two  branches  of  the  Spree.  The 
city  is  indebted  for  its  chief  embellishments  to  Frederick  II.,  sur- 
named  the  Great,  who  is  supposed  to  have  expended  annually  for 
a  number  of  years  not  less  than  400,000  dollars  in  improve- 
ments. This  city  has  a  university,  5  colleges,  7  gymnasia,  and 
250  other  seminaries  of  learning,  with  various  charitable  insti- 
tutions. The  royal  library  contains  160,000  volumes.  It  is  the 
centre  of  learning  for  the  north  of  Germany,  and  has  manufac- 
tures of  silk,  cotton,  woollen,  porcelain,  jewelry,  &c.  Popula- 
tion, 258,000. 

Potsdam,  on  the  Havel,  is  one  of  the  most  elegant  cities  in  the 
Prussian  dominions.  It  contains  a  splendid  royal  palace,  and 
many  fine  architectural  embellishments.  It  has  also  a  cannon 
foundery,  and  manufactures  of  silk  and  velvets.  Population, 
34,000.  On  a  hill  in  the  neighbourhood,  stands  the  palace  of 
Sans  Souci,  erected  by  Frederick  the  Great.  Stettin,  the  capital 
of  Pomerania,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Oder,  has  a  great  trade. 
Population,  25,000. 

Breslaw,  the  capital  of  Silesia,  and  the  second  city  in  Prussia, 
stands  on  the  Oder.  It  is  well  built,  strongly  fortified,  and  con- 
tains a  flourishing  university.  It  has  manufactures  of  linen,  and 
an  extensive  internal  trade.  Population,  88,000.  Magdeburg, 
the  capital  of  Saxony,  on  the  Elbe,  is  a  handsome  city,  with  a 
noble  palace,  an  arsenal,  and  a  magnificent  gothic  cathedral.  It 
has  manufactures  of  silk,  woollen,  cotton,  linen,  &c.  Population, 
52,000. 

Munster,  the  capital  of  Westphalia,  is  situated  not  far  from 
the  Ems,  and  was  once  the  seat  of  a  sovereign  bishop.  The  peace 
of  Munster,  concluded  here  in  1648,  forms  one  of  the  great  eras 


340  EUROPE. 

of  European  history.  Population,  20,000.  Cologne,  on  the  Rhine, 
is  one  of  the  oldest  cities  in  Europe.  It  has  a  great  number  of 
ancient  churches.  The  cathedral  is  an  immense  gothic  pile, 
founded  in  the  13th  century,  but  yet  unfinished.  The  city  has 
a  decayed  look.  It  has  manufactures  of  silk,  linen,  woollen,  lace, 
and  thread,  and  is  celebrated  for  its  Cologne  water,  of  which  it 
exports  annually  80,000  or  90,000  flasks.      Population,  71,000. 

Coblentz,  at  the  junction  of  the  Rhine  and  Moselle,  is  a  well- 
built  city,  with  considerable  trade,  and  some  manufactures.  It 
has  a  bridge  of  boats  over  the  Rhine,  and  one  of  stone  over  the 
Moselle.  Population,  25,000.  Posen,  on  a  branch  of  the  Oder,  is  a 
compactly  built  and  strongly  fortified  town.    Population,  25,000. 

Konigsberg,  on  the  Pregel,  is  seven  miles  in  circumference,  and 
contains  many  elegant  buildings,  and  an  university  of  high  repu- 
tation. Part  of  the  town  stands  on  an  island  in  the  river.  It  is 
a  place  of  considerable  trade.     Population,  70,000. 

Dantzic,  on  the  Vistula,  near  the  southern  shore  of  the  Baltic, 
has  a  good  harbour,  and  was  once  the  chief  town  of  the  Hanseatic 
league.  The  houses  are  high  and  the  streets  crooked.  It  has 
much  commerce  and  internal  trade,  exporting  hemp,  flax,  linen, 
timber,  potash,  &c.  It  has  a  great  annual  fair  in  July  and  Au- 
gust, which  lasts  six  weeks.  Population,  including  the  military, 
65,000. 

Aix-la-Chapelle,  once  the  capital  of  the  German  empire,  is  fa- 
mous for  its  warm  baths.  Many  parts  of  it  are  elegant,  and  it 
has  manufactures  of  cloth  and  needles.  Population,  37,000. 
Dusseldorf,  on  the  Rhine,  is  a  handsome  modern  city,  with  con- 
siderable trade  and  manufactures.  Population,  27,000.  Halle 
is  a  flourishing  city  on  the  Saale.  It  is  celebrated  for  its  univer- 
sity and  literary  institutions.  It  has  also  many  manufactures. 
Population,  20,000.  Frankfort,  on  the  Oder,  is  a  rich  and  hand- 
some town.  Its  three  great  annual  fairs,  and  manufactures  of 
woollen,  silk,  and  leather,  make  it  a  place  of  considerable  trade. 
Population,  18,000. 


BAVARIA. 


This  kingdom  is  bounded  north  by  Hesse  Cassel,  the  Saxon 
duchies,  and  the  kingdom  of  Saxony;  east  and  south  by  Austria, 
and  west  by  Wirtemberg  and  Hesse  Darmstadt.  It  lies  in  two 
distinct  territories,  of  which  the  smallest,  separated  about  forty 
miles  from  the  other,  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Rhine. 
It  contains  31,997  square  miles,  and  4,080,000  inhabitants. 


PRUSSIA, 


Cologne,  on  the  Rhine,  in  the  western  part  of  Prussia. 
Cologne  is  one  or  the  most  iincient  towns  in  Germany.    It  was  the  Colonia  Agrippina  of  the 
Romans  ;  and  was  built  by  Agrippina,  the  wife  of  tlio  Emperor  Claudius. 


EUROPE. 


.__     «£r 

site^S1 

Ehrenbreitstein,  on  the  Rhine,  on  a  rock  800  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river. 

This  fortress  is  one  of  the  strongest  in  the  world.  It  is  a  modern  work,  erected  on  the  site  of 
that  destroyed  by  the  French  at  the  close  of  the  last  century.  At  the  bottom  of  the  rock  is  the 
town  of  Thai  Ehrenbreitstein,  opposite  to  which  stands  Coblentz. 


lUllllllft 


Dusseldorf,  on  the  Rhine,  in  the  western  part  of  Prussia. 


View  in  Dresden,  the  Capital  of  Saxony. 

il„ci  a    i .  i_    ft 


View  of  Mentz,  in  Hesse  Darmstadt. 


GERMANY.  341 

Bavaria  is  watered  chiefly  by  the  Danube  and  its  numerous 
head  streams :  the  northern  part  is  traversed  by  the  Mayne,  and 
the  western  by  the  Rhine.  The  Lake  of  Constance  lies  partly 
within  this  territory,  and  there  are  some  smaller  lakes. 

Much  of  the  soil  is  unproductive  from  its  ruggedness  and  marshy 
quality,  and  a  considerable  part  of  the  country  is  covered  with 
lbrests.  The  mountains  contain  quarries  of  marble,  and  mines 
of  quicksilver,  of  iron,  and  copper.  Wine,  brandy,  and  beer  are 
made  to  some  extent.  Fruit  is  raised  in  great  quantities.  Hops 
and  flax  are  likewise  cultivated.  There  are  some  manufactures 
of  woollen  cloth,  but  this  branch  of  industry  is  much  less  active 
than  formerly. 

Bavaria  is  a  constitutional  monarchy  with  a  national  assembly, 
which  consists  of  two  chambers.  Every  citizen  enjoys  perfect 
equality  in  the  eyes  of  the  law.  The  army  amounts  to  53,898  men. 
Education  has  been  of  late  years  very  generally  diffused,  and 
the  institutions  of  learning  are  in  a  flourishing  condition.  The 
Catholic  is  the  established  religion  of  the  country. 

Munich,  the  capital,  is  seated  in  a  plain  on  the  river  Iser.  It 
is  a  well-built  city,  and  many  of  its  edifices  are  very  splendid.  It 
has  an  university,  a  library  of  400,000  volumes,  and  a  gallery 
of  paintings  ranked  among  the  finest  in  Europe.  Population, 
80,000.  Ratisbon,  on  the  Danube,  is  built  in  the  form  of  a  cres- 
cent, and  is  strongly  fortified.     Population,  26,000. 

Augsburg  was  founded  by  the  Romans  in  the  reign  of  Augus- 
tus. The  public  buildings  are  magnificent,  and  the  city  is  one 
of  the  handsomest  in  Germany.  Population,  32,000.  Nurem- 
burg  has  large  manufactures  of  various  kinds.  It  is  famous  for 
its  toys,  which  afford  amusement  to  children  in  almost  all  quar- 
ters of  the  world.  Watches,  brass,  and  globes  were  invented  in 
this  city.  Population,  40,000.  Bamberg  is  a  fine  city,  with  a 
magnificent  castle.  Population,  20,000.  Wurtzburg,  on  the 
Mayne,  has  a  large  trade  in  wine.  Population,  20,000.  Furth, 
Bayreuth,  Amberg  and  Passau,  are  important  towns. 

Deux  Ponts  or  Zweybrucken,  (i.  e.  two  bridges,)  is  noted  for  its 
valuable  editions  of  the  Greek  and  Latin  classics,  formerly  pub- 
lished here,  called  the  Bipont  editions  from  the  word  Bipons,  the 
Latin  name  of  the  town.  Spire,  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Rhine,  contains  8000  inhabitants.  This  city  was  frequently  the 
seat  of  the  German  diet;  and  here,  in  1529  the  Reformers  enter- 
ed a  protest  against  certain  proceedings  of  the  emperor,  which 
procured  for  them  the  name  of  Protestants.  Both  these  cities 
are  situated  in  that  division  of  Bavaria  which  lies  west  of  the 
river  Rhine. 

29*  2N*  449 


342  EUROPE. 


KINGDOM  OF  SAXONY. 

This  kingdom  is  bounded  north  by  Prussia,  south  by  Austria, 
south-west  by  Bavaria,  and  west  by  Reuss  and  Saxe-Altenburg. 
It  contains  7200  square  miles,  and  1,500,000  inhabitants.  It 
is  watered  by  the  Elbe,  Mulda,  and  some  other  streams. 

Saxony  has  lost  its  principal  agricultural  provinces,  and  little 
is  raised  in  the  kingdom  except  grain.  There  are  upwards  of  two 
millions  of  sheep  in  this  state,  the  wool  of  which  is  largely  ex- 
ported, and  is  highly  esteemed  for  its  fineness.  Manufactures  are 
active,  and  employ  three-fifths  of  the  population.  Trade  is  flour- 
ishing, and  is  much  facilitated  by  the  Elbe  and  its  tributaries. 
Saxony  is  a  constitutional  monarchy.  The  army  amounts  to 
about  10,000  men.  The  electorate  of  Saxony  was  raised  to  a 
kingdom  in  1806,  but  its  limits  were  much  reduced  by  the  con- 
gress of  Vienna,  in  1815. 

Dresden,  the  capital,  stands  on  the  Elbe.  It  is  elegantly  built; 
the  houses  are  all  of  freestone,  and  nearly  all  of  the  same  height. 
It  has  numerous  palaces  and  public  buildings,  beautiful  in  archi- 
tecture, and  magnificently  furnished.  This  city  is  called  the  Ger- 
man Florence  :  it  has  a  gallery  of  paintings,  inestimable  in  value; 
many  establishments  for  the  fine  arts  and  for  education;  a  royal 
library  with  above  250,000  volumes,  and  three  other  public  libra- 
ries.    The  city  is  strongly  fortified.     Population,  70,000. 

Leipzic  is  one  of  the  most  important  cities  in  Germany.  Here 
are  held,  yearly,  three  great  fairs,  which  draw  together  a  vast 
concourse  of  purchasers.  The  books  sold  at  these  fairs  are  valued 
at  1,000,000  dollars  annually,  and  the  other  commodities  at  about 
16,000,000.  Various  manufactures  are  carried  on  here  ;  in  par- 
ticular, those  of  gold,  silver,  silk,  woollen,  and  linen  yarn.  Leip- 
zic has  been  the  scene  of  many  sieges  and  battles  :  the  two  most 
memorable  are  the  victory  gained  by  Gustavus  Adolphus  of  Swe- 
den, over  the  Austrians,  in  1641,  and  that  of  the  allies,  over 
Napoleon,  in  1813.  Population,  40,000.  Chemnitz  has  large 
manufactures  of  cotton  and  woollen  cloth,  hosiery,  and  silk  hand- 
kerchiefs. Population,  16,000.  Freyberg,  on  a  branch  of  the 
Mulda,  is  a  famous  mining  town.  It  stands  on  a  lofty  site,  and 
is  completely  undermined  by  galleries  and  caverns.  Population, 
12,000. 

Bautzen  is  celebrated  for  a  bloody  battle  fought  near  it  in 
1813.  Population,  12,000.  Zittau  is  noted  for  its  manufactures 
of  linen,  Plauen  for  its  cotton  and  cotton-printing  works,  and 
Meissen  for  its  porcelain.  These  three  last  towns  have  respec- 
tively 8000,  7000,  and  5000  inhabitants. 


GERMANY.  343 


KINGDOM  OF  HANOVER. 


This  kingdom  is  bounded  north  by  the  North  Sea,  Holstein, 
and  Mecklenburg;  south  by  Prussia  and  Brunswick;  and  west  by 
Holland.  It  contains  14,720  square  miles,  and  1,600,000  in- 
habitants. The  Hartz  mountains  occupy  a  portion  of  territory 
in  the  south,  detached  from  the  main  body  of  the  kingdom ;  other- 
wise the  whole  country  is  an  immense  plain,  diversified  here  and 
there  by  sand-hills,  sterile  heaths,  and  barren  moors. 

The  Elbe  washes  the  north-eastern  boundary,  and  the  Weser, 
Leine,  Aller,  and  Ilmenau,  flow  through  different  parts  of  the 
country. 

The  mineral  products  are  various.  Gold,  silver,  copper,  lead, 
iron,  zinc,  marble,  slate,  lime-stone,  coal,  &c,  are  produced  here. 
The  mines  of  the  Hartz  are  rich  in  silver,  and  afford  annually 
1,200,000  dollars,  besides  some  gold.  The  salt-springs  are  also 
productive. 

This  country  does  not  raise  sufficient  grain  for  its  own  subsist- 
ence, and  in  some  parts  the  land  is  so  poor  that  numbers  of  the 
inhabitants  leave  the  country  annually  for  Holland,  in  quest  of 
employment.  The  articles  of  cultivation  are  various  sorts  of  grain, 
hops,  flax,  potatoes,  &c.  On  the  heaths  of  Luneberg,  considera- 
ble numbers  of  bees  are  reared.  The  manufactures  consist  of 
linens  from  flax,  coarse  damasks,  yarn,  silver  plate,  gold  and  sil- 
ver lace,  jewelry,  amber,  and  saddlery.  The  internal  trade  is 
assisted  by  four  annual  fairs  at  Hanover,  and  two  at  Osnaburg, 
where  are  sold  the  commodities  purchased  at  the  fairs  of  Bruns- 
wick, Leipzic,  and  Frankfort.  The  chief  exports  are  horses,  cat- 
tle, lead,  linens,  salt,  oats,  barley,  iron,  copper,  peat,  timber,  &c. 

Hanover  is  a  constitutional  monarchy,  and  has  a  general  as- 
sembly consisting  of  two  chambers.  From  the  year  1814  until 
1837,  this  kingdom  was  ruled  by  a  governor  general,  appointed 
by  the  king  of  Great  Britain  ;  but  on  the  death  of  William  IV. 
the  crown  of  Hanover  devolved  on  Ernest  Augustus,  Duke  of 
Cumberland,  his  eldest  brother,  and  fourth  son  of  George  III,  late 
king  of  England.     The  army  amounts  to  13,000  men. 

Hanover,  the  capital,  stands  on  the  river  Leine,  in  the  midst 
of  a  sandy  plain.  It  is  built  in  the  form  of  a  half-moon,  and  has 
several  handsome  streets.  Many  of  the  houses  are  very  ancient, 
and  the  date  of  their  erection  is  always  marked  upon  them.  In 
those  of  1565,  each  story  projects  over  the  one  below  it,  and  all 
are  embellished  with  confused  mixtures  of  medallions,  Pagan  dei- 
ties, warriors,  and  verses  from  the  Psalms.  The  electoral  palace 
is  an  elegant  structure  of  hewn  stone.  The  public  library  has 
24,000  volumes.     Population,  28,000. 


3  44  EUROPE. 

Gottingen,  on  the  Leine,  is  famous  for  its  university,  which  has 
one  of  the  best  libraries  in  Europe,  containing  300,000  volumes. 
Its  botanic  garden,  observatory,  collection  of  natural  history,  &c, 
are  all  highly  valuable.     Population,  9000. 

Emden,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ems,  is  the  chief  sea-port  of  the 
kingdom.  Its  commerce  is  very  active,  and  it  employs  300  ves- 
sels in  the  herring  fishery.  Population,  12,000.  Osnaburg,  on 
a  branch  of  the  Ems,  is  a  considerable  seaport,  famous  for  the 
manufacture  of  coarse  linen  called  Osnaburgs.  Population, 10, 000. 
Luneburg,  on  the  Ilmenau,  has  an  ancient  castle,  and  considera- 
ble trade  in  salt  and  horses.     Population,  12,000. 


KINGDOM  OF  WIRTEMBERG. 


This  kingdom  is  bounded  north-east  by  Bavaria  ;  south  by  the 
lake  of  Constance ;  south-west,  west,  north-west,  and  north,  by 
Baden.    It  contains  7770  square  miles,  and  1,600,000  inhabitants. 

It  is  watered  by  the  Neckar  and  Danube,  with  their  several 
head  streams.  The  soil  is  very  fertile.  The  minerals  are  silver, 
copper,  iron,  cobalt,  sulphur,  coal,  limestone,  &c.  Warm  baths 
and  medicinal  springs  are  numerous,  and  those  of  Heilbron  are 
particularly  celebrated. 

Wirtemberg  produces  great  supplies  of  grain  of  different  kinds. 
Flax  and  hemp  are  raised,  and  the  mountains  are  covered  with 
vines  which  produce  a  rich  and  wholesome  wine  called  Neckar. 
Cherries  are  cultivated  extensively  in  some  parts,  for  manufac- 
turing the  strong  liquor  called  Kirschwasser.  A  singular,  yet 
considerable  branch  of  industry,  is  the  feeding  of  snails,  millions 
of  which  are  fattened  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Ulm  during  the 
autumn,  and  exported  to  Vienna  and  Italy.  Manufactures  are 
not  numerous ;  but  some  cloth  and  lace  are  made  in  a  few  of  the 
towns ;  and  there  are  many  large  distilleries  and  oil-mills. 

The  government  is  a  constitutional  monarchy.  The  legislative 
body  consists  of  two  chambers,  one  of  the  nobility,  and  the  other 
electoral.     The  army  amounts  to  5943  men. 

Stuttgard,  the  capital,  is  situated  near  the  Neckar.  It  is  indif- 
ferently built,  but  contains  a  magnificent  royal  palace  ;  an  acade- 
my for  painting,  sculpture,  and  architecture  ;  a  large  opera-house 
and  theatre.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  wall,  flanked  with  towers. 
The  suburbs  are  large  and  handsome.  The  seminaries  of  learn- 
ing are  numerous  and  respectable:  the  royal  library  has  200,000 
volumes,  and  is  remarkable  for  its  collection  of  bibles,  compris- 
ing 8250  copies,  in  sixty-eight  languages.    The  inhabitants  manu- 


GERMANY.  345 

facture  silks,  hosiery,  and  ribands.  Population,  31,000.  Ulm, 
on  the  Danube,  at  the  head  of-  navigation  for  large  vessels,  has 
the  largest  cathedral  in  Germany,  with  five  spires,  and  an  organ 
with  2952  pipes.  It  has  some  commerce  by  the  river.  Popu- 
lation, 12,000.  Reutlingen  with  10,000,  and  Tubingen  with 
7000  inhabitants,  are  the  other  chief  towns. 


GRAND  DUCHY  OF  BADEN. 

This  territory  is  bounded  north  by  Hesse  Darmstadt,  east 
by  Wirtemberg,  south  by  Switzerland,  and  west  by  France.  It 
contains  5800  square  miles  and  1,200,000  inhabitants. 

Baden  consists  chiefly  of  an  extensive  fertile  plain,  bounded 
on  the  east  by  the  mountainous  range  of  the  Black  Forest.  The 
Rhine  washes  the  western  border,  and  some  of  its  tributaries 
pass  through  this  country.  The  Danube  rises  in  the  southern 
part.  The  Lake  of  Constance  forms  a  part  of  the  south-eastern 
boundary-  The  soil  is  good  and  vegetation  luxuriant.  There 
are  mines  of  silver  and  iron,  and  quarries  of  freestone  and 
marble.  Mineral  springs  and  hot  baths  are  very  numerous.  In 
the  city  of  Baden  there  are  26  hot  baths,  some  of  which  are 
scalding  hot :  all  of  them  spring  out  of  rocks  of  alum,  salt,  and 
sulphur. 

Grain  and  fruits  of  various  kinds  are  cultivated,  but  wine  is 
the  chief  product.  The  government  is  constitutional,  and  the 
sovereignty  hereditary.     The  army  amounts  to  11,566  men. 

Carlsruhe,  the  capital,  is  three  miles  from  the  Rhine.  It  is 
one  of  the  finest  cities  in  Germany.  All  the  streets  diverge  in 
straight  lines  from  the  castle  in  the  centre.  The  houses  are 
regularly  built.  The  public  library  has  70,000  volumes.  The 
gardens  of  the  grand  duke  are  very  handsome.  Population, 
20,000.  Manheim,  on  the  Rhine,  is  regularly  built  in  squares, 
and  with  houses  all  of  the  same  height.  It  has  a  magnificent  castle, 
750  feet  in  length,  and  a  library  of  70,000  volumes.  A  bridge 
of  boats  here  crosses  the  Rhine.     Population,  21,000. 

Heidelberg,  on  the  Neckar,  is  famous  for  an  enormous  tun 
containing  600  hogsheads.  Its  university  is  one  of  the  oldest 
and  most  respectable  in  Germany-  Population,  10,000.  Frey- 
berg  has  a  large  Catholic  university  and  a  fine  Gothic  minster. 
Population,  10,000.  Baden  has  a  pleasant  neighbourhood,  and 
is  much  visited  for  the  baths  already  mentioned.  Population, 
4,000.  Constance,  on  the  lake  of  that  name,  is  surrounded  by 
a  rich  wine  district.     Population,  5000. 


346  EUROPE. 


HESSIAN  STATES. 

The  Hessian  States  comprise  the  Electorate  of  Hesse  Cassel, 
the  Grand  Duchy  of  Hesse  Darmstadt,  and  the  Landgraviate  of 
Hesse  Homburg.  They  are  situated  on  both  sides  of  the  river 
Mayne  in  several  separate  portions.  These  states  have  nomi- 
nally a  limited,  but  in  fact  an  arbitrary,  government,  and  they 
are  much  less  improved  than  some  other  parts  of  Germany.  In 
Hesse  Cassel,  only  the  oldest  sons  of  clergymen,  and  the  sons  of 
noblemen,  counsellors,  and  public  officers,  are  allowed  to  receive 
a  liberal  education.  More  attention  has  been  paid  of  late  to  the 
instruction  of  the  people,  and  seminaries  have  been  established 
here,  as  in  most  parts  of  Germany,  for  the  education  of  teachers, 
Agriculture  and  manufactures  are  generally  in  a  low  state. 

Hesse  Cassel. — This  state  is  surrounded  by  the  territories 
of  Hanover,  the  Saxon  Duchies,  and  Hesse  Darmstadt.  It  con- 
tains 4352  square  miles  and  650,000  inhabitants,  most  of  whom 
are  Protestants.  It  is  to  some  extent  a  mountainous  country, 
but  is  intersected  by  fertile  valleys.  Many  parts  of  the  moun- 
tains are  covered  with  forests.  Gold,  silver,  copper,  lead,  iron, 
alum,  sulphur,  coal,  marble,  &c.  are  found  here,  and  salt  springs 
and  mineral  waters  abound. 

The  agricultural  productions  are  grain,  fruit,  wine,  flax,  and 
hemp.  There  are  few  manufactures  except  linen.  The  military 
force  is  18,000  men,  of  whom  2000  are  in  regular  pay,  the  rest 
are  only  called  out  during  part  of  the  year.  Hesse  no  longer 
carries  on  that  extensive  traffic  of  mercenary  troops  which  for- 
merly brought  in  large  sums  of  money,  and  rendered  the  elector, 
perhaps,  the  richest  individual  in  Europe. 

Cassel,  the  capital,  stands  on  the  river  Fulda.  It  has  several 
splendid  public  places  and  elegant  buildings,  with  a  library  of 
70,000  volumes.  Population,  26,000.  Marburg  has  a  university 
and  a  library  of  56,000  volumes.  Population,  7000.  Hanau  is 
a  regular  and  handsome  town  near  the  Mayne.  Population, 
12,000.     Fulda  has  a  population  of  8000. 

Hesse  Darmstadt. —  This  Grand  Duchy  consists  of  two 
distinct  territories,  lying  north  and  south  of  the  river  Mayne. 
Its  area  is  3600  square  miles,  and  the  population  740,000.  The 
country  is  mountainous,  and  is  watered  by  the  Rhine,  Mayne, 
and  other  streams.  The  rearing  of  cattle  is  the  chief  branch  of 
husbandry  :  the  agricultural  products  are  similar  to  those  of  the 
south  of  Germany.  The  army  amounts  to  8421  men.  The 
prevailing  religion  is  Lutheran. 

451 


GERMANY.  347 

Darmstadt,  the  capital,  is  well  built  in  the  more  modern  part, 
and  has  a  gymnasium  with  a  library  of  90,000  volumes.  The 
town  is  fortified  with  very  extensive  works.  In  the  neighbour- 
hood of  the  town  is  a  magnetic  rock.  Population,  20,000. 
Mentz,  or  Mayence,  on  the  Rhine,  a  little  below  its  junction  with 
the  Mayne,  pleasantly  situated,  but  indifferently  built :  it  has  a 
bridge  of  boats  over  the  Rhine,  a  library  of  90,000  volumes,  a 
fine  museum  of  Roman  antiquities,  and  a  large  cathedral.  The 
fortifications  are  of  great  strength  and  extent,  and  are  held  by 
the  Germanic  Diet  as  one  of  the  bulwarks  of  the  empire.  Here 
is  still  shown  the  house  in  which  Faust  and  Guttemburg  made 
their  first  essays  in  the  art  of  printing.     Population,  28,000. 

Worms,  long  an  important  town,  exhibits  only  the  ruins  of  its 
former  state,  and  is  almost  choked  with  rubbish,  the  fruit  of  suc- 
cessive desolating  wars.  It  has  still  the  remains  of  some  fine 
edifices,  and  a  good  fruit  and  corn  market.  Population,  7000. 
Offenbach,  a  thriving  little  town,  is  the  only  place  in  the  duchy 
where  manufactures  flourish. 

Hesse  Homburg. — This  Landgraviate  consists  of  two  distinct 
parts,  separated  about  50  miles  from  each  other.  It  contains  138 
square  miles  and  24,000  inhabitants.  Homburg,  the  chief 
town,  has  a  population  of  3000.  The  inhabitants  are  mostly 
Protestants. 

The  Saxon  States  comprise  the  Grand  Duchy  of  Saxe 
Weimar,  and  the  Duchies  of  Saxe-Coburg-Gotha,  Saxe-Mein- 
ingen-Hildburghausen,  and  Saxe  Altenburg.  The  government  ot 
these  states  is  more  free  than  that  of  the  Hessian  states,  and 
education  is  more  attended  to.  Agriculture  and  mining,  which 
form  the  chief  employments  of  the  people,  are  conducted  with 
much  skill ;  and  manufactures  are  somewhat  advanced.  The 
Prince  of  Saxe  Weimar  is  distinguished  as  a  patron  of  learning, 
and  is  the  most  liberal  and  popular  of  all  the  German  princes, 
and  was  the  first  of  them  to  give  his  subjects  a  representative 
constitution  ;  and  every  degree  of  freedom  is  allowed  to  the 
press  that  the  great  monarchs  will  permit. 

The  Grand  Duchy  of  Saxe  Weimar  contains  1408  square 
miles  and  232,000  inhabitants.  The  chief  rivers  are  the  Saale 
and  Werra.  Grain,  fruit,  and  flax,  are  cultivated.  The  govern- 
ment is  a  constitutional  monarchy.  The  army  consists  of  2164 
men.  The  prevailing  religion  is  Lutheran.  The  constitution 
was  established  in  1816. 

Weimar,  the  capital,  stands  in  a  fertile  valley  watered  by  the 
Ilm.  The  city  has  a  high  literary  reputation,  and  has  been  par- 
ticularly distinguished  as  the  residence  of  Goethe,  Schiller,  and 


348  EUROPE. 

other  eminent  writers.  Weimar  has  a  public  library  of  120,000 
volumes,  a  drawing  academy,  and  a  theatre,  considered  one  of 
the  best  in  Germany.     Population,  10,000. 

Jena,  on  the  Saale,  stands  in  a  pleasant  spot  surrounded  by 
hills;  it  is  a  walled  and  well-built  town,  with  large  suburbs,  and 
contains  a  ducal  palace,  and  a  university  which  is  the  chief  sup- 
port of  the  place.  Population,  6000.  Eisenach  has  consi- 
derable manufactures.     Population,  9000. 

Saxe-Coburg-Gotha  has  been  lately  formed  by  the  union  of 
these  two  branches,  on  the  extinction  of  that  of  Gotha.  The 
city  of  Gotha,  the  capital,  containing  about  12,000  inhabitants, 
is  the  channel  of  a  considerable  trade  connected  with  the  fair  of 
Leipzic.  It  is  somewhat  a  learned  city  ;  containing  a  library  of 
60,000  volumes,  with  valuable  manuscripts.  This  territory  has 
been  raised  to  distinction  by  the  good  fortune  of  one  of  its  younger 
members,  now  king  of  the  Belgians.  Square  miles,  1024;  popu- 
lation, 156,000. 

Saxe-Meiningen-Hildburghausen,  situated  principally  on  the 
Werra,  is  enriched  by  mines  of  salt  at  Salzungen,  and  by  some  of 
coal,  iron,  and  cobalt.  Area,  875  square  miles ;  population, 
130,000.  Its  principal  towns  are  Meiningen  and  Hildburg- 
hausen,  with  about  5000  inhabitants  each.  The  first  is  the 
capital. 

The  little  duchy  of  Saxe-Altenburg  consists  of  two  detached 
portions,  separated  from  each  other  by  the  territories  of  Saxe- 
Weimar  and  the  Reuss  princes,  and  has  an  area  of  491  square 
miles,  with  114,000  inhabitants.  The  capital,  Altenburg,  is  a 
considerable  town  with  about  12,000  inhabitants. 

Mecklenburg  is  a  territory,  situated  in  the  north  part  of  Ger- 
many, lying  north-east  of  Hanover.  It  consists  to  a  great 
extent  of  lake  and  forest,  and  the  cultivation  is  comparatively 
rude,  yet  a  variety  of  gentle  hills  gives  it  a  picturesque  aspect. 
It  is  divided  into  the  two  grand  duchies  of  Schwerin  and  Strelitz. 
They  are  both  limited  monarchies,  and  the  inhabitants  are 
principally  Lutherans. 

Mecklenburg  Schwerin  is  the  most  extensive  of  the  two  states, 
and  contains  an  area  of  4755  square  miles,  with  450,000  inha- 
bitants. Schwerin,  the  capital,  is  a  pretty  considerable  town, 
with  a  handsome  palace,  situated  on  a  lake,  and  containing  a 
good  gallery  of  pictures.  Population,  12,000.  Rostock  is  a 
larger  town,  with  20,000  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  Baltic,  and 
exporting  grain  to  a  considerable  extent.  Wismar,  on  the  Bal- 
tic, has  a  good  harbour  and  considerable  trade.  Population, 
10,000. 


GERMANY.  349 

Mecklenburg  Strelitz  lies  to  the  eastward  of  the  preceding 
division,  and  has  an  area  of  768  square  miles,  with  a  population 
of  84,000.  Its  capital,  New  Strelitz,  is  but  little  more  than  a 
large  village  :  it  contains  6000  inhabitants.  Old  Strelitz  is  only 
a  mile  distant  from  the  former,  and  is  a  small  place  with  a  popu- 
lation of  about  3000. 

The  duchy  of  Brunswick  is  rather  a  productive  territory,  sur- 
rounded by  Prussia  and  Hanover,  and  comprises  five  distinct 
portions.  The  government  was  nearly  absolute  till  very  lately, 
when  the  people,  by  a  violent  change  of  dynasty,  effected  for 
themselves  a  representative  constitution.  Area,  in  square  miles, 
1514;  population,  250,000. 

The  city  of  Brunswick  is  a  large  place,  in  proportion  to  the 
state,  containing  a  population  of  about  36,000.  It  is  a  consi- 
derable seat  of  the  inland  trade  of  Germany,  its  fairs  ranking 
next  to  those  of  Frankfort  and  Leipzic.  Wolfenbuttel,  about 
seven  miles  south  of  Brunswick,  contains  a  very  large  and 
valuable  library,  considered  one  of  the  richest  in  Europe  :  it  com- 
prises 200,000  printed  volumes,  and  10,000  manuscripts.  Popu- 
lation of  the  town,  8000. 

The  Grand  Duchy  of  Oldenburg  is  distinguished  by  the  high 
rank  of  its  princes,  connected  by  family  alliances  with  all  the 
great  powers  of  the  north,  particularly  Russia.  The  duke  has 
possessions  in  different  parts  of  the  north  of  Germany,  but  the 
main  portion  of  them  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Weser, 
and  nearly  surrounded  by  the  territories  of  Hanover.  It  is  a  flat, 
marshy  district,  but  abounding  in  rich  pastures,  and  somewhat 
resembling  Holland.  Population,  251,500;  area,  2752  square 
miles  ;  government  absolute.  The  capital,  Oldenburg,  is  situated 
on  the  river  Hunte,  a  tributary  of  the  Weser,  which  is  navigable 
by  small  vessels.     Inhabitants,  8000. 

Nassau  is  a  duchy  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Rhine  and  the 
Mayne :  it  produces  those  valuable  wines,  Hock  and  Bleschert, 
which  distinguish  this  part  of  Germany :  it  does  not  contain, 
however,  any  towns  of  importance.  Wisbaden,  the  capital,  much 
visited  on  account  of  its  fifteen  warm  springs,  has  a  population 
of  8000.  At  Niederselters,  two  million  bottles  are  annually 
filled  with  the  celebrated  Seltzer  water.  Population  of  the  duchy, 
356,000  ;  area,  2164  square  miles. 

The  duchies  of  Anhalt  are  situated  on  the  Elbe,  and  sur- 
rounded by  the  territories  of  Prussia ;  they  have  a  population  of 
136,000  divided  between  the  three  branches  of  Dessau,  Bern- 
burg,  and  Cothen.  The  family  is  ancient,  and  has  produced 
some  men  of  eminence.  The  capitals  of  the  respective  duchies 
are  small  towns  of  the  same  name. 

30  20  457 


350  EUROPE. 

The  German  Principalities  are  ten  small  states,  most  of 
which  are  contiguous  to,  or  enclosed  by  the  dominions  of  Prussia. 
They  are  Schioartzburg-Rudolstadt,  Schivartzburg-Sonders- 
hausen,  Reuss-Greitz,  Reuss-Schlcitz,  Lippe-Detmold,  Lippe- 
Schauenburg,  Hohenzollern- Sigmaringen,  Hohenzollern- Hech- 
ingen,  Waldcck,  and  Lichtenstein. 

ScJiwartzbvrg  belongs  to  a  very  ancient  house,  and  is  divided 
into  the  two  branches  of  Schwartzburg-Rudolstadt  and  Schwartz- 
burg-  Sondershausen,  containing  in  all  about  112,000  subjects, 
of  which  the  first  has  60,000,  and  the  other  52,000.  The  ter- 
ritories are  detached  from  each  other,  and  about  25  miles  apart, 
Rudolstadt  being  very  nearly  surrounded  by  the  Saxon  States, 
and  Sondershausen  entirely  enclosed  by  the  province  of  Prussian 
Saxony.     Rudolstadt  and  Sondershausen  are  the  capitals. 

The  territory  of  Reuss  is  divided  between  Reuss-Greitz  and 
Reuss-Schleitz,  the  elder  and  younger  lines:  the  former  has 
25,000  subjects,  and  the  latter,  which  is  subdivided  into  the 
several  branches  of  Reuss-Schleitz, Reuss- Lobenstein-Ebersdorf, 
and  Reuss-Koestriz,  has  59,000.  This  family  dates  its  origin 
from  the  year  950.  The  principal  town  is  Gera,  called  in 
Germany  Little  Leipzic,  on  account  of  its  trade,  which  is 
considerable.     The  capitals  are  Greitz  and  Lobenstein. 

Lippe-Detmold  and  Lippe-Schauenburg  are  situated  to  the 
south  of  Hanover,  and  form  two  distinct  territories,  about  ten 
miles  apart.  A  former  prince  of  Lippe-Schauenburg  made  a 
distinguished  figure  in  the  service  of  Portugal.  Their  inhabitants 
amount  to  104,000.     Detmold  and  Buckeburg  are  the  capitals. 

There  are  two  princes  of  Hohcnzollern,  Sigmaringen  and 
Hechingen,  having  between  them  55,000  people.  Their  ter- 
ritories are  situated  between  Baden  and  Wirtemberg.  The 
capitals  are  Sigmaringen  and  Hechingen. 

Waldeck,  composed  of  two  separate  districts,  situated  about  30 
miles  apart  from  each  other,  derives  almost  its  sole  importance 
from  the  mineral  baths  of  Pyrmont,  which  are  among  the  most 
celebrated  in  Europe.  Population,  56,000 ;  area,  459  square 
miles.     Arolsen  is  the  capital. 

Lichtenstein  borders  on  Switzerland  and  the  Tyrol.  It  con- 
tains 5550  inhabitants  and  53  square  miles  of  territory.  Vadutz 
is  the  capital ;  the  government  is  constitutional,  and  the  inhabit- 
ants are  Catholics.     The  Prince  usually  resides  at  Vienna. 

The  Lilliputian  lordship  of  Kniphausen  was  recognized  as  an 
independent  state  by  an  act  of  the  Germanic  Diet  in  1826. 
It  is  situated  within  the  territories  of  the  Duke  of  Oldenburg. 
Population,  3000 ;  area,  17  square  miles. 


GERMANY.  351 

THE  FREE  CITIES  OF  GERMANY. 

Hamburg,  Lubec,  Bremen,  and  Frankfort  are  small  republics, 
which  constitute  what  are  denominated  the  free  cities  of  Germany ; 
they  comprise  the  remnant  of  the  Hanse  towns,  or  Hanseatic 
League,  a  confederation  that  was  formed  about  600  years  ago. 
In  time  this  alliance  increased  to  such  an  extent  that  it  comprised 
85  commercial  cities  and  towns,  and  grew  so  powerful  that  by 
the  influence  of  its  wealth  and  the  terror  of  its  arms  it  ruled  for 
a  time  a  great  part  of  Northern  Europe.  It  continued  in 
existence  almost  400  years,  and  was  dissolved  in  the  year  1630. 
The  territories  of  Hamburg  comprise  several  detached  portions, 
the  chief  part  of  which  is  situated  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Elbe, 
about  70  miles  from  the  sea.  Area,  134  square  miles;  popula- 
tion, 150,000.  The  government  is  vested  in  a  self-elected  senate 
of  28  members,  who,  however,  are  checked  by  popular  councils, 
chosen  by  all  who  have  property,  to  a  certain  amount,  within 
the  city. 

Hamburg  is  the  principal  commercial  city  in  Germany,  and 
is,  after  London  and  Liverpool,  the  most  important  in  Europe. 
Its  trade  was  almost  annihilated  during  the  wars  of  the  French 
revolution :  since  that  time,  however,  it  has  greatly  revived, 
though  not  to  its  former  extent.  The  manufactures  of  this  city 
are  various,  but  chiefly  comprise  cotton  and  linen  fabrics,  and 
refined  sugar. 

Hamburg  is  not  a  well-built  town,  the  streets  being,  in  general, 
narrow  and  irregular,  and  the  houses  constructed  of  brick  or 
wood.  The  churches  of  St.  Michael's  and  St.  Peter's  have 
elegant  spires,  and  the  new  exchange  is  handsome,  but  there  is 
no  edifice  particularly  distinguished  for  its  splendour.  Popula- 
tion, 125,000. 

Cuxhaven,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Elbe,  is  a  little  village 
belonging  to  Hamburg,  whence  regular  packets  and  steam- 
vessels  sail  to  Amsterdam  and  Harwich. 

The  republic  of  Lubec  comprises  several  small  detached 
districts,  bounded  by  the  Danish  and  Mecklenburg  territories. 
Area,  122  square  miles;  inhabitants,  47,000.  The  city,  though 
less  important  than  formerly,  is  still  a  place  of  considerable 
trade.  It  is  situated  on  the  river  Trave,  eight  miles  from  the 
Baltic,  and  contains  26,000  inhabitants. 

The  republic  of  Bremen  consists  of  a  small  territory,  lying  on 
the  river  Weser,  about  50  miles  from  the  sea,  and  surrounded 
by  the  dominions  of  Hanover.  The  government  is  administered 
by  four  burgomasters  and  a  senate,  all  of  whom  are  chosen  for 
life.     Area,  72  square  miles  ;  population,  59,000. 

459 


352  EUROPE. 

The  city  of  Bremen,  situated  on  both  sides  of  the  Weser,  50 
miles  from  the  sea,  is  enriched  by  the  commerce  of  that  im- 
portant river,  down  which  are  brought  the  productions  of  interior 
Germany,  and  it  also  carries  on  a  considerable  foreign  trade. 
The  old  town  consists  of  narrow  streets,  bordered  by  high  gloomy 
houses,  built  in  the  fashion  of  the  middle  ages  ;  but  there  is  a  new 
town  in  a  much  more  elegant  style.     Population,  40,000. 

Frankfort,  the  seat  of  the  Germanic  Diet,  stands  on  both  sides 
of  the  river  Mayne,  and  is  one  of  the  most  important  towns  in 
Germany.  It  has  two  annual  fairs,  in  March  and  September, 
which  draw  hither  many  merchants  from  every  country  of 
Europe.  The  chief  articles  of  traffic  are  cottons,  woollens,  and 
books.  The  city  was  once  strongly  fortified,  but  the  defences 
have  been  converted  into  public  walks.  The  buildings  are 
indifferent.  The  whole  territory  of  Frankfort  comprises  113 
square  miles,  and  55,000  inhabitants,  the  chief  part  of  whom 
belong  to  the  city.  The  government  is  republican,  and  the 
inhabitants  are  mostly  Protestants. 

The  German  Territories  of  Denmark,  Belgium,  Prussia,  and 
Austria. 

The  duchies  of  Holstein  and  Lauenburg  lie  north  of  the 
river  Elbe,  and  form  the  most  northern  part  of  Germany :  they 
belong  to  Denmark,  and  comprise  an  area  of  3691  square 
miles,  with  410,000  inhabitants.  Kiel,  Altona,  and  Gluckstadt, 
are  the  chief  towns. 

The  German  duchy  of  Luxemburg,  forming  the  most  southern 
part  of  Belgium,  belongs  to  that  kingdom.  The  capital  city, 
Luxemburg,  contains  10,000  inhabitants.  It  is  one  of  the 
strongest  places  in  Europe,  and  one  of  the  fortresses  of  the  Ger- 
manic Confederation.  Area  of  the  duchy,  2347  square  miles, 
and  305,000  inhabitants. 

Prussian  Germany  includes  the  provinces  of  the  Rhine,  West- 
phalia, Saxony,  Brandenburg,  Pomerania,  and  Silesia.  The 
two  first  named  provinces  form  a  distinct  division,  separated  from 
the  others  by  the  territories  of  Hanover,  Brunswick,  and  Hesse 
Cassel ;  altogether  they  comprise  about  two  thirds  of  the  territory 
belonging  to  the  kingdom  of  Prussia,  with  an  area  of  70,549 
square  miles,  and  10,160,000  inhabitants. 

German  Austria  comprehends  the  archduchy  of  Austria,  the 
duchy  of  Styria,  Bohemia,  Moravia,  Tyrol,  and  the  duchies  of 
Carniola  and  Carinthia,  or  Illyria.  These  territories  comprise 
about  one-third  of  the  empire  of  Austria,  and  contain  an  area  of 
78,451  square  miles,  and  11,840,000  inhabitants. 


SWITZERLAND. 


Alpine  Spaniel. 


Ibex. 


The  Alpine  Spaniel  is  one  of  the  largest  of  the  dog  kind.  These  animals  are  bred  by  the 
monks  of  St.  Bernard  ;  they  exhibit  great  sagacity,  and  are  used  in  discovering  travellers  lost 
among  the  mountains  in  time  of  snow. 


Chamois. 


Bearded  Vulture,  or  Vulture  of  the  Alps. 


The  Ibex  and  Chamois  are  animals  of  the  goat  species,  that  inhabit  the  most  inaccessible 
summits  of  the  Alps.  Here  they  are  followed  by  adventurous  hunters,  who  kill  many  of  them 
every  year. 

The  Bearded  Vulture  is  one  of  the  largest  of  its  kind.  It  attacks  sheep,  lambs,  young  stags, 
and  even  the  ibex  and  chamois  fall  victims  to  its  rapacity. 


EUROPE. 


Great  Falls  of  the  Rhine,  at  Schaffhausen. 

The  Great  Fall  of  the  Rhine  is  sixty  feet  high.    It  is  remarkable  for  the  turbulence  of  the 
water,  and  the  violence  of  its  sound,  which  may  be  heard  six  miles  distant. 


Source  of  the  Aveyron. 

The  river  Aveyron  rises  amongst  extensive  glaciers  at  the  foot  of  Wont  Blanc,  and  flows 
through  the  vale  of  Chamouni  into  the  Rhone. 


Glacier  of  Grindelwald. 

In  the  valley  of  the  Grindelwald,  at  the  foot  of  the  Alps,  green  meadows  and  cultivated 
fields  border  closely  on  immense  glaciers,  which  afford,  by  the  singular  contrast,  a  scene  seldom 
witnessed,  except  in  Switzerland. 


SWITZERLAND.  353 

SWITZERLAND. 

Switzerland  is  a  mountainous  region,  situated  in  the  centre 
of  Europe,  and  occupying  the  country  lying  north  and  west  of 
the  great  range  of  the  Alps.  It  is  remarkable  for  the  grandeur 
of  its  natural  features  and  scenery,  and  for  the  freedom  of  its 
political  institutions.  This  territory  forms  a  confederacy,  com- 
posed of  22  cantons,  each  of  which  is  an  independent  republic ; 
but,  for  mutual  security,  they  are  united  together,  and  governed 
by  a  general  diet,  and  are  known  as  the  Helvetic  Confederacy, 
or  Helvetic  Republic. 

Switzerland  is  bounded  north  by  Baden  and  Wirtemberg,  east 
by  Austria,  south  by  Sardinia  and  the  Lombardo- Venetian  king- 
dom, and  west  by  France.  Its  length,  from  east  to  west,  is  200 
miles;  its  breadth,  from  north  to  south,  130 ;  and  its  superficial 
extent  is  about  15,000  square  miles.     Population,  2,000,000. 

Two  distinct  ranges  of  mountains  bound  this  region.  The 
chain  of  the  Jura  stretches  from  south-west  to  north-east,  and 
separates  Switzerland  from  France.  The  Alps  form  a  more 
extensive  chain,  and  run  nearly  parallel  to  the  Jura,  with  numerous 
branches,  known  among  geographers  by  the  names  of  the  Pennine, 
Lepontine,  and  Rhaetian  Alps.  These  vast  mountains  divide 
this  country  from  Italy.  They  exhibit  inaccessible  peaks,  covered 
with  snow ;  eternal  and  boundless  wastes  of  ice ;  valleys  sur- 
rounded by  immense  precipices ;  in  contrast  with  wooded  and 
undulated  slopes,  vine-clad  fields,  and  bright  patches  of  vegetation. 

Mont  Blanc,  the  highest  summit  in  Europe,  overlooks  the  vale 
of  Chamouni,  in  Savoy ;  a  district  not  comprised  within  the 
political  limits  of  Switzerland,  but  which  pertains  to  it  in  a  geo- 
graphical character.  This  mountain  is  15,668  feet  in  height : 
it  is  capped  with  eternal  snow,  and  the  approach  to  the  top  is  so 
full  of  difficulty  and  hazard  that  it  has  never  been  ascended 
except  in  a  few  instances. 

Some  of  the  principal  rivers  in  Europe  take  their  rise  in  this 
country,  and  flow  from  it  in  nearly  all  directions.  The  Rhine, 
the  Rhone,  and  the  Inn,  are  the  most  important;  and  the  Tecino, 
and  other  Italian  rivers,  rise  on  its  borders.  The  Aar  is  the 
chief  stream  that  has  its  course  wholly  in  Switzerland. 

This  country  is  noted  for  the  number  of  its  romantic  and  pic- 
turesque lakes.  The  waters  of  the  lake  of  Geneva,  or  Leman,  are 
beautifully  transparent,  and  the  surrounding  scenery  has  long 
been  celebrated  for  its  magnificence.  It  is  46  miles  in  length, 
1000  feet  deep,  and  is  elevated  1230  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.     The  lake  of  Constance  is  45  miles  long  and  about  ten 

30*  "63 


354  EUROPE. 

wide  Its  banks  are  fertile  and  abound  with  towns  and  villages. 
The  lakes  of  Neufchatel,  Lucerne,  Zurich,  Lugano,  and  Thun, 
are  smaller,  and  are  all  elevated  at  considerable  heights  above 
the  level  of  the  ocean. 

The  general  surface  of  Switzerland  exceeds,  in  rugged  sub- 
limity, any  other  portion  of  Europe.  The  nature  of  the  country 
presents  numerous  obstacles  to  its  cultivation ;  but  they  have 
been,  in  a  great  measure,  overcome  by  the  industry  of  the  inha- 
bitants. The  traces  of  the  plough  are  visible  on  the  sides  of 
precipices  apparently  inaccessible ;  and  spots,  which  nature 
seemed  to  have  doomed  to  eternal  sterility,  are  crowned  with 
vegetation.  The  produce  of  grain  is  generally  equal  to  the 
consumption;  but  pasturage  is  the  main  object  of  the  farmer. 

The  chief  manufactures  are  cotton  and  woollen  goods,  linen, 
silk,  leather,  jewelry-ware,  and  particularly  watches.  Being 
situate  in  the  centre  of  Europe,  Switzerland  is  much  restricted  in 
its  commercial  intercourse  by  the  barriers  of  the  Alps,  and  the 
prohibitory  systems  of  the  neighbouring  States.  The  chief 
exports  are  cattle,  sheep,  linen,  lace,  silks,  jewelry,  &c.  The 
imports  are  principally  corn,  flax,  raw  silk,  cotton,  spices,  and 
various  kinds  of  manufactured  goods. 

As  to  national  character,  the  Swiss  enjoy  the  reputation  of 
being  a  plain,  honest,  brave,  and  simple  people,  among  whom 
linger  the  last  remnants  of  antique  and  primitive  manners.  Their 
fond  attachment  to  their  native  country  is  conspicuous  even 
amid  the  necessity  which  compels  them  to  abandon  it,  and  to 
enter  the  service  of  the  neighbouring  powers.  It  is  observed 
that  no  sooner  is  the  Ranz  des  Vaches,  a  simple  mountain  air, 
played  in  their  hearing,  than  the  hardy  soldiers  melt  into  tears. 
An  ardent  love  of  liberty  has  long  distinguished  the  Swiss  people. 

The  religion  of  Switzerland  is  divided  between  the  Protestant 
and  Catholic  churches.  The  cantons  of  Schweitz,  Uri,  Unter- 
walden,  Lucerne,  Zug,  Friburg,  Soleure,  Valais,  and  Tesino,  are 
Catholic:  St.  Gall,  Appenzell,  Aargau,  and  Orisons,  are  mixed: 
Geneva,  Vaud,  Berne,  Glarus,  Zurich,  Basle,  Schaffhausen, 
Thurgau,  and  Neufchatel  may  be  ranked  as  Protestant ;  though 
even  in  Geneva  there  are  15,000  Catholics. 

The  Protestant  churches  were  at  first  strictly  Calvinistic,  both 
as  to  doctrine  and  discipline ;  but  the  Genevan  church  has,  in  a 
great  measure,  renounced  the  tenets  of  this  school  of  theology. 
The  Presbyterian  form  of  church  government,  however,  still 
prevails  throughout  Protestant  Switzerland.  The  Catholic  reli- 
gion exhibits  this  peculiar  feature,  that,  instead  of  being,  as  usual, 
combined  with  high  monarchial  principles,  it  is  established  among 
the  most  purely  democratic  of  the  Swiss  Republics. 


SWITZERLAND. 


Am>::SL 


Devil's  Bridge. 


The  Devil's  Bridge  is  built  across  a  deep  and  dangerous  chasm,  into  which  the  river  Reuss 
fails  several  hundred  feet. 


Source  of  the  Reuss. 


Fall  of  Staubbach. 


The  river  Reuss  rises  in  a  small  lake  at  the  foot  of  Mount  St.  Gothard,  amid  some  of  the 
wildest  scenery  in  Switzerland. 

The  cataract  of  the  Staubbach  is  formed  by  a  small  stream  that  falls  800  feet.  In  its  descent, 
it  spreads  out  into  a  species  of  white  vapour,  which,  when  illumined  by  the  rising  sun,  produces 
a  brilliant  effect. 

465 


EUROPE. 


View  of  Berne,  Switzerland. 


View  of  Geneva,  Switzerland. 


;<>- 


^ 


Chapel  of  William  Tell,  Burgeln. 

The  Chapel  of  William  Tell  is  built  on  the  spot  where  he  leaped  ashore,  and  escaped  from 
the  Austrian  Governor,  Gessler. 


sSsmm 


Monastery  of  St.  Bernard,  on  the  Alps. 

The  Monastery  of  St.  Bernard  is  situated  in  the  pass  over  the  Great  St.  Bernard  mountain, 
at  the  height  of  9000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Here  the  monks  entertain  all  strangers 
gratis  for  three  days. 

466 


SWITZERLAND.  355 

Learning,  though  not  very  generally  diffused  throughout 
Switzerland,  has  been  cultivated  with  great  ardour  at  Geneva 
and  Zurich,  both  of  which  have  a  character  more  decidedly  in- 
tellectual than  most  European  cities.  Elementary  knowledge 
is  general  throughout  the  Protestant  population.  The  habits  and 
general  forms  of  life  are  substantially  German,  modified,  in  the 
western  cantons,  and  especially  in  Geneva,  by  a  somewhat  inti- 
mate communication  with  France. 

The  Helvetic  diet  consists  of  deputies  from  the  different  cantons, 
which  meet  once  a  year.  Extraordinary  meetings  may  also  be 
called  on  the  requisition  of  any  five  cantons.  This  assembly 
takes  cognizance  of  every  thing  that  concerns  the  foreign  rela- 
tions, and  the  general  defence  of  the  country.  The  army  of  the 
confederacy  is  formed  of  contingents,  which  each  canton,  in 
proportion  to  its  number,  is  obliged  to  furnish.  From  these  is 
made  out  an  entire  amount  of  33,000  men. 

Among  the  Swiss  cantons  the  forms  of  government  are  various : 
Neufchatel  is  a  constitutional  monarchy,  of  which  the  king  of 
Prussia  is  the  executive  head ;  Berne,  Lucerne,  Friburg,  and 
Soleure  are  aristocratic ;  the  other  seventeen  cantons  have  con- 
stitutions based  more  or  less  on  democratic  forms  and  principles. 

A  remarkable  peculiarity  in  the  military  system  of  Switzerland 
is,  the  employment  of  its  citizens  in  the  service  of  foreign  powers 
as  a  stipendiary  force.  This  system  has  long  prevailed,  and  is 
regularly  authorized  by  the  government.  The  number,  in  1816, 
was  estimated  at  30,000.  The  singular  consequence  follows, 
that  citizens  of  the  most  democratic  state  in  Europe,  form,  in 
many  cases,  the  main  instrument  in  supporting  the  arbitrary 
power  of  foreign  princes. 

The  city  of  Berne  is  usually  considered  as  the  capital  of  Swit- 
zerland, but  Zurich  and  Lucerne  share  with  it  that  honour  ;  each 
being  alternately  the  seat  of  government  for  two  years  at  a  time. 
Berne  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  Aar,  and  is  a  large  and 
handsome  place,  partly  fortified,  and  containing  a  beautiful  ca- 
thedral, a  college,  an  arsenal,  and  several  other  public  edifices. 
Population,  18,000.  Basle,  one  of  the  largest  trading  towns  in 
the  confederacy,  is  situated  on  the  Rhine,  by  which  it  is  divided 
into  two  parts  united  by  a  bridge.  It  has  a  library  of  28,000 
volumes,  and  is  the  seat  of  a  university,  founded  in  1459.  Po- 
pulafion,  16,000. 

Geneva  stands  at  the  western  extremity  of  the  lake  of  that 
name,  and  is  divided  by  the  Rhone  into  two  parts.  Its  library 
contains  about  50,000  volumes.  It  has  some  manufactures  of 
woollen,  muslin,  chintz,  silk,  porcelain,  and  particularly  watches, 


356  EUROPE. 

which  employ  near  3000  persons.     The  book  trade  has  ever  been 
very  flourishing  here.     Population,  26,000. 

Zurich  stands  on  the  lake  of  the  same  name,  upon  both  sides 
of  the  river  Limmath.  It  is  distinguished  for  its  college  and 
public  library,  and  has  flourishing  manufactures  of  muslins, 
cottons,  and  silk  handkerchiefs.  Population,  11,000.  Lausanne 
is  delightfully  'situated  on  three  eminences,  a  mile  north  of  the 
lake  of  Geneva.  It  contains  a  gothic  cathedral  of  considerable 
magnificence.  Population,  10,000.  Lucerne,  on  the  lake  of  the 
same  name,  occupies  a  gentle  eminence,  and  is  surrounded  by  a 
wall  and  towers.     Population,  7000. 


ITALY. 

Italy  is  an  extensive  region  in  the  south  of  Europe,  and  one 
of  the  finest  in  the  world,  as  to  soil  and  climate,  and  noted  as 
the  theatre  of  many  of  the  greatest  events  in  history.  It  is 
now  in  a  state  of  decline,  but  is  filled  with  grand  monuments  and 
scenes,  calculated  to  awaken  the  most  lofty  recollections.  This 
portion  of  the  European  continent  forms  a  large  peninsula, 
bounded  on  the  north  by  Germany  and  Switzerland,  east  by 
part  of  Austria  and  the  Gulf  of  Venice,  south  and  south-west  by 
the  Mediterranean,  and  on  the  west,  in  the  northern  parts,  by 
France.  Length,  700  miles ;  breadth,  from  350  to  75  miles. 
The  whole  area  may  be  reckoned  at  127,000  square  miles,  in- 
cluding the  islands  of  Sicily  and  Sardinia. 

The  surface  of  Italy  is  the  most  finely  diversified  of  any 
country  in  the  world.  It  has  the  loftiest  mountains  and  the  most 
beautiful  plains  in  Europe.  The  Alps  extend  along  the  whole  of 
its  northern  frontier,  and  some  of  their  proudest  pinnacles,  Mont 
Blanc,  St.  Bernard,  &c,  are  within  the  Italian  territory.  The 
Apennines  are  a  chain  that  belong  entirely  to  Italy,  and  range 
through  the  peninsula  from  north  to  south. 

The  plains  of  this  country  are  as  remarkable  for  their  extreme 
beauty,  as  the  mountains  for  their  grandeur.  The  most  extensive 
is  that  of  Lombardy,  between  the  Alps  and  the  Apennines,  which, 
being  profusely  watered,  highly  cultivated,  and  under  a  genial 
climate,  is,  perhaps,  the  richest  and  most  productive  region  in 
Europe. 

Of  the  rivers  of  northern  Italy  the  Po  is  the  most  prominent:  it 
flows  into  the  Gulf  of  Venice,  and  is  about  400  miles  in  extent.  The 
others,  in  the  same  region,  are  much  smaller  in  their  length  of 
course :  they  are  the  Piave,  Brenta,  Adige,  and  the  Arno.     The 


ITALY. 


Millet. 


Arundo  Donax. 


Besides  Indian-corn,  wheat,  rice,  and  the  other  grains  raised  in  Italy  millet  is  in  many 
parts  extensively  cultivated. 

The  Arundo  Donax  is  a  gigantic  grass,  of  the  stems  of  which  fences  are  made ;  also,  walking- 
canes,  fishing-rods,  and  a  variety  of  other  articles,  which  require  strength  combined  with  lightness. 


Caper.  Stone-Pine. 

The  Caper  is  a  low  trailing  plant,  two  or  three  feet  long,  that  grows  in  dry  rocky  situations, 
and  also  on  old  walla,  in  Italy  and  the  south  of  France.  The  buds  of  the  flower  are  gathered 
before  expansion,  and  put  into  vinegar ;  they  are  much  used  as  seasoning  for  various  disheB. 

The  Stone-Pine  grows  in  all  parts  of  Italy.  Its  dark  hue  and  picturesque  outline  have  recom- 
mended it  so  much  to  the  artist,  that  it  forms  a  Btriking  feature  in  almost  all  Claude  Lorraine's 
and  Gaspar  Poussin's  celebrated  Italian  landscapes. 

2P  468 


EUROPE. 


Pomegranate.  Myrtle. 

The  Pomegranate  is  a  fruit  that  in  Italy  attains  the  size  of  a  large  apple,  though  in  warmer 
regions  it  grows  much  larger.  The  pulp  contains  a  great  many  small  red  seeds ;  a  cooling 
and  grateful  beverage  is  made  of  the  juice  mixed  with  sugar  and  water. 


Mount  Etna. 


470 


ITALY.  357 

well-known  Tiber,  Pescara,  Garigliano,  and  Ombrone,  are  in  the 
centre  ;  and  the  Votturno,  Ofanto,  Brandana,  and  Sele,  in  the 
south.  The  lakes  are  the  Maggiore,  Como,  and  Garda,  in  Lom- 
bardy,  with  Perugia  and  Bolsano,  in  the  States  of  the  Church, 
together  with  Celano,  in  Naples. 

The  principal  islands  are  Sicily,  Sardinia,  and  Corsica ;  those 
of  Elba  and  the  Lipari  islands  are  less  important.  Malta,  Gozzo, 
and  Comino,  though  geographically  Italian,  belong  to  Great 
Britain. 

In  Italy  are  to  be  found  the  finest  specimens  of  architecture  in 
Europe.  The  churches  are  costly  and  magnificent,  and  the 
dwellings  of  some  of  the  higher  nobility  rival  the  palaces  of  kings 
and  emperors.  In  Florence,  the  houses  resemble  fortresses, — a 
feature  indicative  of  the  time  when  the  city  was  convulsed  by  the 
violence  and  feuds  of  its  factions.  In  the  northern  states  the 
buildings  are  often  provided  with  projecting  porticoes,  or  arcades, 
stretching  without  interruption  from  one  end  of  a  city  to  another. 
In  the  Roman  and  Neapolitan  territories,  they  are  almost  univer- 
sally without  chimneys,  as  the  mildness  of  the  climate  renders 
a  fire  seldom  necessary. 

This  country,  once  the  most  important  commercial  and  manu- 
facturing region  in  Europe,  is  now  dependent  upon  other  nations 
for  the  superb  fabrics  with  which  she  formerly  supplied  them ; 
her  ships  no  longer  cover  the  Mediterranean  ;  her  merchants, 
who  were  once  her  nobles  and  her  princes,  retain  only  the 
shadow  of  mighty  names.  Yet  such  is  the  felicity  of  the  soil 
and  climate  of  Italy,  that  the  produce  of  her  land  is  still  ample 
and  valuable,  and,  after  supplying  a  dense  population,  affords  a 
large  surplus  for  exportation. 

The  inhabitants  of  this  country  are  descended  from  different 
nations,  which,  at  various  times,  overran  Italy,  though  they  are 
now  blended  into  one  race.  The  foreigners  are  mostly  Germans, 
resident  in  Lombardy,  Venice,  &c,  and  Jews  scattered  over  the 
country. 

The  Italians  are  distinguished  for  their  animated  and  expres- 
sive countenances,  and  brilliant  eyes.  They  are  generally  of 
dark  complexions,  well  formed  and  active.  The  women  have 
black  or  auburn  hair,  and  most  of  the  requisites  for  beauty. 
Among  the  inhabitants  are  many  cripples  and  deformed  ;  for  the 
poor  in  Italy  suffer  many  hardships  and  privations ;  but  among 
the  lowest  class,  and  especially  at  Naples,  the  human  form  is 
seen  in  its  greatest  perfection,  and  the  half-clad  lazzaroni  are 
the  best  models  for  a  sculptor. 

In  all  the  states  of  Italy  there  are  the  usual  grades  of  European 
nobility ;  and  the  individuals  are  more  numerous  than  those  of 

471 


358  EUROPE. 

the  same  class  in  any  other  country.  In  some  of  the  states  of 
Italy  all  the  sons  of  the  nobility,  and  their  sons,  bear  the  original 
title.  Of  these,  many  individuals  are  indigent ;  and  some  of  them 
have  been  known  to  solicit  charity.  Rome,  Naples,  and  the 
towns  of  the  south,  are  thronged  with  mendicants,  whose  distress 
is  not  always  assumed,  for  in  this  land  of  fertility  many  are 
without  food. 

The  Italians  are,  in  some  respects,  the  most  polished  and  refined 
people  in  the  world.  While  many  of  the  German  and  English 
nobles  place  their  enjoyment  in  hunting  and  the  pleasures  of  the 
table ;  music,  painting,  poetry,  and  assemblies  for  conversation, 
form  the  delight  of  the  Italians.  Even  the  common  shopkeepers 
of  Rome  and  Florence  possess  a  taste  in  the  fine  arts,  and,  also, 
sometimes  in  poetry,  which  is  unknown  amongst  similar  classes 
elsewhere. 

The  peasants  are  a  quiet,  orderly,  but  ignorant  race ;  while  the 
populace  of  the  great  towns  are  often  tumultuous  and  unlicensed. 
Trie  lazzaroni  of  Naples,  in  particular,  form  a  numerous  body, 
who  exist  almost  wholly  out  of  the  pale  of  regular  society.  The 
climate  enables  them  to  live  without  houses,  almost  without 
clothes,  and  with  only  a  daily  handful  of  food. 

Another  too  numerous  class,  are  the  bandits,  or  robbers,  who, 
established  in  the  recesses  of  the  mountains,  form,  as  it  were, 
a  separate  class,  and  carry  on  their  vocation  on  a  great  and  re- 
gular scale.  The  road  from  Rome  to  Naples  is  their  favourite 
haunt.  They  seldom  disturb  the  indigent  traveller  ;  their  grand 
aim  being  to  carry  off  some  person  of  distinction,  and  then  to  exact 
a  ransom  proportionable  to  his  means  and  dignity.  During  the 
late  domination  of  the  French,  the  prompt  means  pursued  by  that 
people  greatly  reduced  the  number  of  the  banditti,  and  many,  to 
save  their  lives,  were  forced  to  become  soldiers ;  but,  under  the 
supine  indolence  of  the  Neapolitan  government,  they  are  in- 
creasing. 

The  Roman  Catholic  religion  is  established  throughout  Italy, 
and  nowhere  else  has  it  so  many  splendid  accessories,  addressed 
to  the  senses  and  the  imagination.  There  are  Protestant  com- 
munities in  Piedmont,  which,  however,  are  much  restricted, 
though  generally  the  Italians  are  not  intolerant,  and  Protestants, 
Greeks,  and  Mussulmans  may  approach  the  Pope  himself.  The 
English  at  Rome,  have,  on  the  great  festivals  of  the  church,  a 
conspicuous  place  assigned  to  them. 

In  literature  and  science  the  world  is  deeply  indebted  to  Italy : 
first,  for  the  classical  works  which  she  produced  during  her 
Augustan  age,  and  then  for  the  brilliant  revival  of  literature 
under  her  auspices,  after  a  long  night  of  ignorance.     In  the 


ITALY.  359 

fourteenth,  fifteenth,  and  sixteenth  centuries,  she  could  boast  of 
poets  and  historians  unrivalled  amongst  those  of  any  age  or 
country  ;  and  although  her  literary  greatness  has  suffered  some 
decay,  she  has  not  ceased  to  produce,  from  time  to  time,  men 
eminent  in  the  various  departments  of  learning. 

The  literary  collections  of  this  region  are  of  singular  value. 
The  library  of  the  Vatican,  if  not  the  most  extensive,  is  probably 
the  most  valuable  in  the  world.  The  number  of  volumes  con- 
tained in  it  are  estimated  at  about  600,000,  and  the  manuscripts 
at  50,000.  The  libraries  of  Florence,  Bologna,  and  Milan, 
though  secondary  to  the  former,  contain,  however,  a  rich  store 
of  ancient  manuscripts  and  early  printed  works,  formed  by  the 
munificent  princes  who  once  reigned  over  these  cities.  The  fine 
arts,  in  Italy,  have  attained  a  splendour  quite  unrivalled  in  any 
modern  country,  and  have  ever  flourished  in  that  region  as  their 
chosen  and  peculiar  soil. 

Painting,  in  the  sixteenth  century,  and  in  the  Roman  and 
Florentine  schools,  reached  a  height  of  perfection,  unequalled, 
perhaps,  even  in  ancient  times,  in  all  the  qualities  of  form, 
design,  and  expression,  which  constitute  the  highest  excellence 
of  art :  no  names  can  yet  rival  those  of  Michael  Angelo  and 
Raphael.  The  sculpture  of  Italy,  even  during  its  happy  stages, 
did  not  equal  that  of  the  ancient  schools.  In  the  present  age, 
however,  the  genius  of  Canova  has  burst  forth  with  a  brilliancy 
which  has  enabled  modern  times,  in  this  art,  almost  to  rival  an- 
tiquity. In  architecture,  also,  this  country  has  no  modern  rival. 
Though  some  of  the  northern  nations  may  have  erected  more 
huge  and  costly  structures,  none  of  them  display  the  same  high, 
pure,  and  classical  taste. 

In  music,  this  region  has  boasted  a  similar  pre-eminence;  and, 
for  a  long  period,  all  the  great  composers  in  the  highest  style  of 
art  were  exclusively  Italians.  Of  late,  however,  Germany  has 
come  forward  as  a  powerful  rival,  and  has  produced  several 
composers  of  the  first  class.  Yet  Italy  seems  still  to  be  regarded 
as  the  chief  home  of  the  musical  art :  hither  all  the  students  re- 
pair, and  its  vocal  performers  are  considered  over  all  Europe  as 
superior  to  those  of  any  other  country. 

Italy  is  chiefly  divided  among  five  potentates.  The  Emperor 
of  Austria,  who  holds  Lombardy  and  Venice,  to  which  may  be 
added  Parma  and  Piacenza,  the  appanage  of  Maria  Louisa ;  the 
King  of  Sardinia  ;  the  Grand  Duke  of  Tuscany  ;  the  Pope,  ruler 
of  the  States  of  the  Church  ;  the  King  of  Naples  and  Sicily ; 
besides  these,  the  Duchies  of  Modena  and  Lucca,  the  Principality 
of  Monaco,  and  the  Republic  of  San  Marino,  form  separate, 
though  they  hardly  deserve  the  name  of  independent  states. 

2  P  *  473 


360 


EUROPE. 


The  area  in  square  miles,  and  the  population  of  the  several 
Italian  States,  are  as  follows : 


Kingdom  of  Lombardy  and  Venice 

Sardinia  

Tuscany 

States  of  the  Church 

Naples 

Parma 

Modena 

Lucca   

San  Marino 

Monaco  

Total  


Area,  in 

Total 

square  miles. 

Population. 

18,534 

4,300,000 

29,534 

4,400,000 

8,759 

1,280,000 

17,572 

2,600,000 

42,700 

7,414,000 

2,250 

440,000 

2,145 

400,000 

434 

150,000 

22 

9,000 

50 

7,000 

122,000 

21,000,000 

SARDINIA. 


The  kingdom  of  Sardinia  consists  of  five  separate  divisions, 
Piedmont,  Genoa,  Savoy,  Nice,  and  the  island  of  Sardinia.  The 
first  four  comprise  the  continental  section  of  the  kingdom.  They 
occupy  the  north-western  portion  of  Italy,  and  are  encompassed 
by  France,  Switzerland,  Austrian  Italy,  Parma,  and  the  Gulf  of 
Genoa.  The  whole  region  is  about  200  miles  in  length  and  135 
in  width,  with  an  area  of  19,725  square  miles. 

The  island  of  Sardinia,  from  which  the  kingdom  takes  its  name, 
forms  the  insular  division  of  this  state.  It  is  situated  on  the 
Mediterranean  sea  to  the  southward  of  Corsica,  and  upwards  of 
200  miles  south  of  the  main  land  of  Sardinia.  It  is  170  miles  in 
length  and  90  in  breadth.  Area,  9809  square  miles  ;  area  of  the 
whole  kingdom,  29,534  square  miles ;  population,  4,400,000. 

Continental  Sardinia  is  inclosed,  on  three  sides,  by  the  Alps  and 
the  Apennines,  which  gives  it  an  irregular  surface,  and  renders 
the  scenery  more  sublime,  and  the  climate  colder,  than  in 
southern  Italy.  In  Piedmont  the  soil  is  very  fertile  and  well 
cultivated.  The  plains  produce  rice,  Indian  corn,  and  other 
grains,  and  the  hills  are  covered  with  vineyards  and  olive-yards. 
The  pastures  are  very  rich,  and  grazing  is  an  important  branch 
of  husbandry.  Savoy  is  a  rugged  province,  resembling  Swit- 
zerland in  its  character,  and  lying  among  the  loftiest  of  the 
Alps  near  Mount  Blanc  and  Mount  Cenis.  The  irregularity  of 
the  surface  renders  cultivation  very  difficult,  and  it  is  naturally 
one  of  the  poorest  countries  in  Europe.     The  Savoyards  are  but 


ITALY.  361 

poorly  instructed ;   but  their  industry,  frugality,  and  sobriety, 
enable  them  to  gain  a  comfortable  subsistence. 

The  mountains,  which  extend  over  the  country,  give  rise  to  a 
number  of  small  streams,  that  unite  to  form  the  Po.  The  Rhone 
forms  part  of  the  north-western  boundary,  and  receives  the  most 
of  those  rising  on  the  northern  and  western  slope  of  the  Alps. 
The  Var  forms  the  line  of  separation  between  Nice  and  France, 
and  falls  into  the  Mediterranean.  The  lake  of  Geneva  borders 
Sardinia  on  the  north,  and  Lago  Maggiore  on  the  north-east. 
There  are,  besides  these,  several  smaller  lakes. 

The  principal  articles  of  exportation  are  silk,  rice,  and  oil. 
Genoa  is  the  only  port  which  has  any  foreign  commerce.  The 
island  of  Sardinia  supplies  the  continental  states  with  salt,  and 
some  grain  and  vegetables.  There  are  manufactures  of  silk  at 
Genoa,  to  the  amount  of  1,000,000  to  1,400,000  dollars  annually. 
This  city  also  manufactures  paper,  soap,  chocolate,  maca- 
roni, &c.  In  Piedmont  are  some  manufactures  of  silk.  Nice 
produces  perfumes  and  scented  waters.  There  are  some  smelt- 
ing furnaces  in  Piedmont  and  Savoy.  The  tunny  fisheries  of  the 
island  of  Sardinia  are  said  to  produce  near  200,000  dollars  a  year. 
The  coral  fishery  is  also  a  considerable  source  of  revenue. 

The  king  of  Sardinia  is  an  absolute  hereditary  monarch. 
The  government  is  directed  by  a  Supreme  Council  of  State,  a 
Council  of  Finances,  a  Council  of  Government,  the  Council  of 
Savoy,  the  Senate  of  Turin,  the  Council  of  Nice,  and  the  Council 
of  Genoa.  Justice  is  administered  by  the  nobles.  The  army 
consists  of  28,000  men,  and  the  navy  of  two  ships  of  54  guns 
and  six  or  eight  smaller  vessels. 

Public  instruction  is  very  deficient.  Gymnasia  and  high- 
schools  exist  in  most  of  the  large  towns,  but  little  except  Latin 
and  scholastic  theology  is  taught  in  them.  The  universities, 
with  the  exception  of  those  at  Turin  and  Genoa,  are  very  insig- 
nificant. It  is  estimated  that  there  are  not  ten  individuals  in  100 
who  can  read,  write,  and  cipher.  A  strict  censorship  prevails, 
and  few  foreign  books,  pamphlets,  or  newspapers,  are  allowed 
to  enter  the  country. 

The  Island  of  Sardinia  is  one  of  the  least  valuable  portions  of 
the  kingdom,  though  few  regions  exceed  it  in  natural  fertility. 
Its  situation,  in  the  heart  of  the  Mediterranean,  and  with  a  number 
of  fine  harbours,  might  afford  the  opportunity  of  an  extensive 
commerce ;  but,  the  population  is  in  the  most  uncultivated  and 
savage  state,  perhaps,  of  any  in  Europe.  The  peasantry  in  the 
interior  are  clothed,  in  a  great  measure,  in  shaggy  goat  or  sheep 
skins  ;  they  subsist  chiefly  by  the  produce  of  their  flocks  and  by 
hunting,  and  go  constantly  armed,  for  their  own  defence,  against 
31  475 


362  EUROPE. 

the  numerous  and  desperate  banditti,  by  whom  the  mountains  are 
infested.  A  considerable  portion  of  the  horses,  cattle,  and  sheep, 
are  in  a  wild  state. 

The  Sardinian  government  is  making  exertions  to  improve 
the  condition  of  the  island,  by  the  formation  of  roads,  &c. 
Cagliari  and  Sassari  are  both  considerable  towns ;  the  former 
having  some  trade,  but  crowded,  ill-built,  and  ill-paved;  the  latter, 
smaller,  but  more  elegant.  Oristagno  has  a  fine  harbour,  and 
flourishes  by  the  tunny  fishery,  and  by  the  culture  of  wine  in  its 
neighbourhood. 

Turin,  the  capital  of  Piedmont,  and,  also,  of  the  kingdom,  is 
situated  on  the  western  bank  of  the  Po,  at  the  foot  of  a  range  of 
beautiful  hills.  It  is  the  most  regularly  built  of  all  the  Italian  cities, 
with  broad,  straight,  and  clean  streets,  and  is  admired  for  the  sym- 
metry of  its  squares,  the  splendour  of  its  hotels,  and  the  general 
elegance  of  its  houses.  It  has  four  splendid  gates,  adorned  with 
pillars  and  cased  with  marble  ;  110  churches,  a  university,  and 
many  fine  palaces.  The  royal  palace  is  spacious,  and  surrounded 
with  delightful  gardens.  The  outward  view  of  the  city  is  very 
imposing,  and  it  has  no  mean  suburbs  or  mouldering  walls. 
Population,  114,000. 

Genoa,  surnamed  the  superb,  and  the  once  proud  capital  of 
the  great  naval  republic  of  the  same  name,  stands  on  the  shores 
of  the  Gulf  of  Genoa.  The  aspect  of  its  white  buildings  ascend- 
ing in  regular  progression  from  the  sea  is  highly  magnificent. 
The  interior  consists  of  streets,  or  rather  lanes,  eight  or  ten 
feet  wide,  between  immensely  high  edifices.  Two  of  the  streets 
only  are  accessible  to  carriages.  The  Strada  Balbi  is  one  of  the 
most  magnificent  streets  in  the  world,  and  is  full  of  splendid 
palaces.  Genoa  has  several  public  libraries,  a  university,  and 
other  literary  institutions.  Its  harbour  is  one  of  the  finest  in 
Europe,  and  it  has  a  considerable  trade.     Population,  80,000. 

This  city  was  taken  by  the  English  and  their  allies,  from  the 
French,  in  the  year  1800,  when  20,000  of  the  besieged  perished 
with  hunger.  It  was,  however,  evacuated  after  the  victory  of 
Marengo. 

Nice  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  Gulf  of  Genoa,  and  has  a 
good  artificial  harbour.  The  mildness  of  its  climate  draws  many 
invalids  to  this  quarter.  Population,  25,000.  Chamberry,  the 
chief  town  of  Savoy,  occupies  a  charming  spot,  surrounded  by 
gentle  eminences  covered  with  vineyards,  pastures,  and  wood  ; 
but  it  is  not  a  well-built  place.  Population,  12,000.  Alessandria, 
on  the  Tanaro,  a  branch  of  the  Po,  is  the  strongest  place  in  the 
kingdom.  It  is  well  built,  with  broad  and  handsome  streets. 
Population,  35,000.     In  the  neighbourhood  of  this  city  is  the 


ITALY. 


Cathedral  of  Milan. 

The  Cathedral  of  Milan  is  one  of  the  finest  churches  in  the  world.    It  was  commenced  in  the 

sixteenth  century,  hut  is  not  yet  entirely  finished.    This  edifice  is  built  of  white  marble ;  it  is  456 

feet  long,  and  270  wide.    The  height  of  the  cupola  is  232,  and  that  of  the  tower  335  feet.    The, 

statues  which  adorn  it,  inside  and  out,  are  said  to  amount  to  4000.  ,__ 

4/7 


EUROPE. 


.- 


'«:r ,r'&'i  J".---'-"J-' 
Italian  Cottage. 
The  cottages  of  the  peasantry  in  Lombnrdy  and  Tuscany  are  often  adorned  with  porticoes  and 
colonnades,  and  frequently  display  :\  classic  aspect. 

478 


ITAL*.  363 

village  of  Marengo,  the  scene  of  one  of  Bonaparte's  most  cele- 
brated victories.  Other  towns,  with  their  population  respectively, 
are— Asti,  22,000;  Coni,  18,000;  Mondovi,  17,000;  Vercelli, 
16,000  ;  Novarra,  15,000. 

Monaca. — The  principality  of  Monaca  is  a  small  independent 
state,  under  the  protection  of  Sardinia.  It  has  an  area  of  50 
square  miles.  The  prince  usually  resides  at  Paris.  Monaca, 
the  capital,  is  a  village  with  1000  inhabitants.  Mentore,  the 
largest  town,  has  a  population  of  3000. 


AUSTRIAN  ITALY. 


Austrian  Italy,  or  the  Lombardo- Venetian  kingdom,  called 
also  the  kingdom  of  Lombardy  and  Venice,  is  situated  in  the  north- 
eastern part  of  Italy,  and  forms  the  finest  portion  of  the  Austrian 
empire.  It  consists  of  an  extensive  and  populous  plain,  which 
stretches,  on  the  one  hand,  from  the  Alps  to  the  Po,  and,  on  the 
other,  from  Sardinia  to  Illyria,  comprising  several  territories  that 
were  once  politically  distinct. 

The  luxuriant  fertility  of  this  vast  plain,  the  beautiful  and  ro- 
mantic landscapes  presented  by  the  southern  declivity  of  the  Alps, 
the  lakes  which  spread  at  their  feet,  and  the  fine  shores  of  the 
Gulf  of  Venice,  unite  in  making  it  one  of  the  most  desirable  coun- 
tries in  Europe. 

The  kingdom  consists  of  two  great  divisions  ;  the  late  republic 
of  Venice  in  the  east,  and  Lombardy  in  the  west.  It  is  bounded 
north  by  Switzerland  and  the  Tyrol ;  south  by  the  States  of  the 
Church,  Modena,  and  Parma ;  east  by  Illyria,  and  west  by  Sar- 
dinia. It  is  220  miles  long,  140  wide,  and  contains  18,534 
square  miles,  with  4,300,000  inhabitants. 

The  Po  washes  the  southern  limit  of  the  kingdom.  This  river, 
denominated  the  prince  of  Italian  streams,  rises  in  the  western 
Alps,  on  the  confines  of  France  and  Italy,  and,  after  receiving 
numerous  tributaries  from  the  north  and  the  south,  flows  into  the 
Gulf  of  Venice.  It  is  about  400  miles  in  length,  is  everywhere 
deep  and  rapid,  and  is  navigable  to  Turin.  The  Adige  and  the 
Piave  also  flow  from  the  Alps  into  the  Gulf  of  Venice. 

The  chief  lakes  are  the  Maggiore,  Como,  and  Garda:  they  are 
more  remarkable  for  their  beauty  than  their  extent,  and  are  all 
connected  with  the  Po  by  tributaries  of  that  stream. 

The  climate  of  this  region  is  delightful,  yet  the  winter  has 
some  features  of  Alpine  severity.  The  heats  of  summer  are  mi- 
tigated by  the  cool  breezes  from  the  Alps.    The  irrigation  applied 


364  EUROPE. 

to  the  lands  in  Lombardy  is  the  most  perfect  in  Europe.  The 
mountains,  which  border  the  country,  afford  an  inexhaustible 
supply  of  water.  The  meadows  yield  six  crops  of  hay  in  a  year. 
Rice  is  cultivated  in  some  parts.  The  grain  and  ordinary  fruits 
are  ripe  in  June  or  July,  and  the  vintage  takes  place  in  October. 
The  bee  and  the  silk-worm  receive  much  attention,  but  the  dairy 
is  the  main  occupation  of  the  farmer. 

The  chief  manufactures  are  silk,  glass,  and  hardware.  At 
Venice  and  Murano  beautiful  mirrors  are  made  ;  hardware  and 
fire-arms  at  Brescia,  and  jewelry  and  plate  at  Milan  and  Venice. 
There  are  also  some  manufactures  of  woollen  cloths,  musical 
instruments,  china,  carpets,  paper,  artificial  flowers,  perfumes, 
vermicelli,  macaroni,  glass  beads,  &c.  Venice  has  been  made  a 
free  port :  its  foreign  commerce,  however,  is  trifling,  but  the  in- 
ternal trade  is  active. 

The  government  is  arbitrary,  and  is  administered  by  an  Aus- 
trian viceroy.  There  is  a  show  of  representation,  yet  everything 
is  controlled  by  the  authorities  at  Vienna.  All  the  taxes  are 
imposed  by  the  emperor.  The  administration  of  justice  is  arbi- 
trary and  wretched  in  the  extreme,  and  the  censorship  is  very 
rigid. 

Milan,  the  capital  of  the  kingdom,  and  the  residence  of  the 
viceroy,  is  a  large  and  splendid  city,  eleven  miles  in  circumfer- 
ence. It  is  considered  the  most  elegant  city  in  Italy,  and  was 
very  much  improved  and  beautified  by  Napoleon.  The  finest 
building  is  the  cathedral,  which  is  inferior  only  to  St.  Peter's 
at  Rome.  It  is  completely  built,  paved,  vaulted,  and  roofed 
with  the  whitest  and  most  resplendent  marble.  Most  of  the 
buildings  in  this  city  are  constructed  according  to  a  regular  order 
of  architecture,  and  a  mean-looking  house  is  as  rare  here,  as  a 
palace  elsewhere.  Here  is  the  famous  Ambrosian  library,  with 
72,000  volumes,  and  15,000  manuscripts.  The  hospitals  and 
charitable  institutions  are  numerous.  Milan  was  founded  584 
years  before  Christ,  by  the  Insubrian  Gauls.  It  has  been  forty 
times  besieged  ;  forty  times  taken,  and  four  times  destroyed.  It 
has  above  200  churches,  and  more  than  100  monastic  institutions. 
Population,  160,000. 

Venice  is  the  most  picturesque  city  in  Europe,  and  full  of  cha- 
racter and  variety.  It  stands  in  the  Gulf  of  Venice,  about  five 
miles  from  the  main  land,  and  is  built  upon  a  multitude  of  islands, 
which  are  intersected  by  canals  instead  of  streets.  The  Grand 
Canal  is  crossed  by  the  Rialto,  a  marble  arch  ninety  feet  in  span. 
The  prospect  from  this  bridge  is  lively  and  magnificent.  There 
are  500  other  bridges.  Most  of  the  canals  are  narrow,  and  some 
have  no  quays,  so  that  the  water  washes  the  houses.     Boats 


ITALY.  365 

called  gondolas,  are  used  to  navigate  the  canals,  in  which  all 
parts  of  the  city  may  be  traversed  with  ease  and  safety.  The 
ducal  palace,  and  the  churches  of  St.  Mark  and  St.  Gemignano, 
are  rich  and  splendid  edifices.  The  square  of  St.  Mark  is  800 
feet  in  length,  and  has  a  magnificent  appearance.  The  republic 
of  Venice,  with  its  series  of  splendid  triumphs,  its  gorgeous  no- 
bility, and  its  rich  commerce,  is  now  an  empty  name :  but  the 
city  still  remains  ;  and,  though  possessing  but  the  shadow  of  its 
former  importance,  yet  contains  150,000  inhabitants. 

Padua,  the  birth-place  of  Livy,  has  a  famous  university,  founded 
by  Charlemagne,  and  is  said  to  have  had,  at  one  time,  18,000 
students;  in  1817,  only  300.  Population,  55,000.  Mantua  is 
a  strong  town,  standing  in  the  midst  of  a  lake  formed  by  the 
Mincio.  The  streets  are  broad  and  straight,  and  the  squares 
spacious.  Population,  25,000.  Cremona  stands  near  the  conflu- 
ence of  the  Po  and  the  Adda,  ft  has  a  splendid  cathedral  and  is 
regularly  built,  but  the  streets  are  grass-grown,  and  the  place  has  a 
decaying  look.  It  is  particularly  celebrated  for  its  manufacture 
of  violins.  Population,  27,000.  Brescia,  to  the  west  of  lake 
Garda,  has  also  a  fine  cathedral.     Population,  31,000. 

Pavia,  on  the  Tecino,  has  a  university  founded  by  Charlemagne. 
Population,  21,000.  Lodi,  on  the  Adda,  is  celebrated  for  a 
victory  gained  by  Bonaparte  over  the  Austrians.  Population, 
18,000.  Verona,  on  the  Adige,  at  the  foot  of  the  Alps,  has  a 
charming  situation,  and  many  fine  buildings.  Its  ancient  walls 
and  towers  inclose  a  vast  area,  and  have  a  noble  appearance. 
The  great  amphitheatre,  at  this  place,  is  one  of  the  noblest  monu- 
ments of  Roman  magnificence  now  existing.    Population,  55,000. 


TUSCANY. 

The  Grand  Duchy  of  Tuscany  ranks  next  to  the  Roman 
States  as  the  theatre  of  great  historical  events,  and  has  surpassed 
Rome  itself  as  the  seat  of  modern  learning.  It  is  bounded  north 
and  east  by  the  Roman  States,  south-west  by  the  Mediterranean, 
and  north-west  by  Lucca.  It  contains  8759  square  miles,  and 
1,280,000  inhabitants.  The  chief  river  is  the  Arno,  which  rises 
among  the  mountains  in  the  eastern  part,  and  flows  westerly  to 
the  sea.  The  Ombrone,  in  the  south,  is  not  navigable.  The 
Tiber  rises  in  the  mountains  of  this  country. 

Tuscany  is  admired  for  its  romantic  scenery.  The  boldness, 
grandeur,  and  rich  luxuriance  of  the  country,  are  hardly  any- 
where equalled.     The  vale  of  the  Arno  is  one  of  the  most  delight- 

31  *  2Q,  481 


366  EUROPE. 

ful  regions  in  the  world.  It  is  abundantly  rich  and  well  cultivated, 
and  is  divided  into  very  small  farms,  separated  by  rows  of  trees, 
or  small  canals.  Chestnuts  are  an  important  production ;  in 
some  parts  they  are  used  for  bread.  The  Maremma,  a  desolate 
unhealthy  tract  of  country,  stretches  along  the  coast  for  200 
miles  southward  from  Leghorn :  the  noxious  atmosphere,  called 
Malaria,  renders  this  region  almost  uninhabitable. 

The  Tuscans  are  among  the  most  industrious  of  the  Italian 
nations.  Their  manufactures  of  silk  are  carried  on  with  great 
activity,  and  employ  a  number  of  individuals.  Straw  hats  are 
made  in  great  numbers  by  the  women,  in  the  valley  of  the  Arno. 
The  other  manufactures  are  linen,  broadcloth,  soap,  perfumes, 
letter-paper,  china,  and  mosaics,  with  various  articles  in  marble, 
coral,  alabaster,  &c.  Leghorn  is  a  noted  sea-port,  and  has  an 
extensive  commerce  with  the  Levant,  Europe,  and  America. 

The  government  is  an  absolute  monarchy.  There  are  4000 
regular  troops,  besides  militia.  The  chief  universities  are  at 
Florence,  Pisa,  and  Sienna.  They  comprise  about  1200  students. 
At  Florence  are  also  several  public  schools. 

The  island  of  Elba  is  nine  miles  from  the  coast  of  Tuscany. 
It  is  sixty  miles  in  circumference,  and  contains  160  square  miles. 
The  chief  production  is  iron,  taken  mostly  from  a  single  moun- 
tain consisting  of  one  immense  mass  of  iron  ore.  The  island 
contains,  also,  copper,  lead,  and  silver  mines,  and  produces  ex- 
cellent wines.  Population,  14,000.  The  chief  town,  Porto 
Ferrajo,  has  a  good  harbour,  and  contains  3000  inhabitants.  In 
1814,  this  island  was  given  in  entire  sovereignty  to  Napoleon, 
who  resided  here  from  May,  1814,  till  February  26,  1815. 

Florence,  the  capital,  stands  on  the  Arno,  fifty  miles  from  the 
sea.  It  is  six  miles  in  compass,  and,  next  to  Rome,  is  the  most 
beautiful  city  in  Italy.  It  is  built  in  a  plain,  skirted  by  the 
Apennines.  The  city  is  surrounded  by  walls  ;  the  buildings  are 
magnificent,  and  the  streets  well  paved  and  kept  remarkably  clean. 
The  ducal  palace,  the  cathedral,  the  church  of  Santa  Croce,  and 
many  other  edifices,  are  noted  for  their  size  and  splendour.  The 
Medicean  gallery  is  rich  in  those  treasures  of  painting  and 
sculpture  which  draw  to  this  city  visiters  from  every  quarter  of 
the  civilized  globe. 

The  Laurentian  library  has  120,000  volumes;  others  have 
90,000  and  50,000.  There  are  many  splendid  private  galleries 
and  libraries.  Florence  was  the  cradle  of  the  arts,  at  the  time 
of  their  regeneration,  and  the  birth-place  of  Dante,  Michael 
Angelo,  Galileo,  and  Amerigo  Vespucci.  The  city  contains  a 
great  number  of  wealthy  English  residents.    Population,  80,000. 

Pisa,  on  the  Arno,  near  the  sea,  was  once  the  capital  of  a 


ITALY.  367 

republic,  the  rival  of  Genoa  and  Venice.  It  is  now  decayed,  but 
can  still  boast  some  marble  churches,  a  marble  palace,  and  a 
marble  bridge.  The  cathedral  is  a  large  gothic  edifice  of  marble. 
Near  it  stands  that  remarkable  structure,  the  Leaning  Tower :  it 
is  190  feet  high,  and  overhangs  its  base  fifteen  feet,  seeming  to 
threaten  a  fall  at  every  instant ;  yet  it  has  stood  six  hundred 
years,  and  endured  the  shock  of  earthquakes  which  have  over- 
thrown many  a  perpendicular  structure.  Pisa  has  a  university 
with  a  library  of  60,000  volumes.     Population,  20,000. 

Leghorn  is  the  chief  sea-port  of  Tuscany.  It  is  a  neat,  well- 
built,  and  busy  town,  with  a  tolerable  harbour.  The  streets  are 
filled  with  Europeans,  Turks,  Jews,  Armenians,  Greeks,  and 
Moors,  exhibiting  a  most  picturesque  variety  of  costume.  But  few 
works  of  art  and  architectural  monuments  exist  here.  The  com- 
merce of  this  place  is  very  active.  Population,  66,000.  Sienna, 
once  the  capital  of  a  flourishing  republic,  is  now  much  reduced, 
but  still  contains  a  magnificent  cathedral  and  a  university. 
Population,  18,000. 

Duchy  of  Parma. — Parma,  Placentia,  and  Guastalla,  though 
they  have  been  formed  into  a  state  for  Maria  Louisa,  the  ex-em- 
press of  France,  form,  in  reality,  an  appendage  of  Lombardy, 
and  a  continuation  of  its  great  plain,  to  the  foot  of  the  Apennines. 
The  country  abounds  in  the  richest  pastures,  from  which  is  pro- 
duced the  celebrated  Parmesan  cheese. 

The  city  of  Parma,  on  a  small  river  of  the  same  name,  is  large, 
populous,  airy,  and  clean.  It  does  not  contain  any  remarkable 
architectural  features,  except  the  theatre,  modelled  on  the  ancient 
plan,  and,  perhaps,  the  noblest  in  the  world,  but  now  in  a  state 
of  decay.     Population,  30,000. 

Piacenza,  or  Placentia,  with  28,000  inhabitants,  is  also  a  large 
and  well-built  city ;  but  its  celebrated  amphitheatre,  which  sur- 
passed that  of  Verona,  was  burnt  to  the  ground  in  one  of  the  furious 
civil  contests  which  laid  waste  Italy.  The  population  of  the 
duchy  is  about  440,000,  and  its  area  2240  square  miles. 

Duchy  of  Modena. — Modena  is  a  fine  small  domain,  composed 
of  a  rich  plain  at  the  foot  of  the  Apennines.  It  is  held  as  a  fief 
of  Austria,  and  by  a  branch  of  that  family.  It  has  an  area  of 
2145  square  miles,  and  400,000  inhabitants.  The  territory  is 
fertile  and  well  cultivated. 

Modena,  the  capital,  is  a  handsome  city,  with  27,000  in- 
habitants. The  ducal  palace  is  an  elegant  edifice,  and  the 
cathedral  is  remarkable  for  its  tower,  the  most  lofty  in  Italy. 
Reggio,  also,  contains  a  ducal  palace,  with  a  population  of 
18,000.  Carrara  is  noted  for  its  fine  statuary  marble,  which  is 
largely  exported. 


368  EUROPE. 

Duchy  of  Lucca. — Lucca  is  one  of  the  few  Italian  republics, 
which,  amid  the  revolutions  of  800  years,  maintained  its  inde- 
pendence. The  people  reaped  the  benefit  of  this,  in  the  superior 
education  and  more  decent  deportment  of  the  nobles ;  and  in 
that  agricultural  industry,  which  has  converted  a  land  liable  to 
inundation,  and  destitute  of  many  natural  advantages,  into  a 
complete  garden. 

The  territory,  though  comprising  an  area  of  only  434  square 
miles,  two-thirds  of  which  consist  of  mountain  and  defile,  reckons 
a  population  of  150,000. 

The  capital  is  Lucca,  with  22,000  inhabitants.  The  city 
contains  a  palace,  university,  and  observatory.  The  celebrated 
baths  of  Lucca  are  near  the  town.  The  country  residences  of 
the  higher  ranks  are  generally  magnificent  structures. 


THE  POPEDOM,  OR  STATES  OF  THE  CHURCH. 

The  Popedom,  or  States  of  the  Church,  called,  also,  the  Eccle- 
siastical States,  and  the  Roman  States,  comprise  one  of  the  most 
celebrated  countries  in  the  world,  and  occupy  the  centre  of 
Italy.  Though  these  states  have  lost  that  paramount  importance 
and  influence  which  they  once  possessed,  yet,  as  they  contain 
Rome  with  all  its  stupendous  monuments,  and  were  the  central 
theatre  of  all  the  ancient  grandeur  of  Italy,  they  still  excite  an 
interest  superior  to  that  of  any  other  of  these  celebrated  regions. 

This  territory  is  washed  on  the  north-east  by  the  Gulf  of 
Venice,  and  on  the  south-west  by  the  Mediterranean  sea.  On 
the  north  it  is  bounded  by  the  Lombardo- Venetian  kingdom,  on 
the  south-east  by  the  kingdom  of  Naples,  and  on  the  west  by 
Modena  and  Tuscany.  Its  extreme  length  is  260  miles  from 
north  to  south,  and  its  breadth  from  25  to  110  miles.  It  contains 
17,572  square  miles,  and  2,600,000  inhabitants. 

The  Roman  States  are  intersected  by  the  Apennines,  which 
divide  the  country  into  two  unequal  sections,  moderate  the 
violent  heats  of  summer,  and  give  rise  to  a  number  of  small 
rivers.  Of  these,  the  Tiber,  though  not  the  largest  stream  in 
Italy,  is  the  first  in  classical  celebrity.  It  passes  through  the 
city  of  Rome  to  the  Mediterranean,  and  is  about  150  miles  long. 
There  is  no  other  river  of  any  importance  wholly  within  this 
territory,  but  its  northern  boundary  is  washed  by  the  Po. 

The  Campagna  di  Roma  is  a  continuation  of  the  Tuscan 
Maremma.  It  exhibits  an  undulated  surface,  bare  of  trees,  and 
is  noted  for  its  impure  atmosphere.     The  Pontine  marshes,  in 


ITALY. 


St.  Peter's,  at  Rome. 


Coliseum. 
The  Coliseum,  built  by  the  Emperor  Vespasian,  is  the  largest  amphitheatre  ever  erected  ry 
the  Romans.    It  is   1612  feet  in  circum Terence,   and  is  now  about  one-half  in  ruins.     The 
materials  for  erecting  several  palaces  have-  been  taken  fr;im  it. 

2  U  *  485 


EUROPE. 


Arch  of  Constantine. 
Triumphal  arches  were  often  erected  by  the  Romans  in  commemoration  of  great  actions 
and  signal  achievements.   The  arch  of  Constantine  is  the  most  perfect  of  any  that  remain  ;  and 
is  one  of  the  finest  works  of  art. 


F^W 


EL 


T~^SZ^~ ■ — 
Trajan's  Column.  Column  of  Antoninus. 

Triumphal  columns  were  erected  for  the  same  purpose  as  triumphal  arches.  The  columns 
of  Trajan  and  Antoninus  are  noted  examples  of  this  description  of  edifice.  They  are  formed 
of  the  finest  white  marble,  each  about  130  foet  high,  and  adorned  with  finely-executed  sculp- 
tures. 


The  Pantheon. 

The  Pantheon  is  one  of  the  best  preserved  of  the  ancient  Roman  edifices.  It  was  built, 
as  its  name  imports,  in  honour  of  all  the  gods;  but  was  consecrated  in  the  seventh  century  to 
the  Virgin  Mary  and  all  the  martyrs. 

486 


ITALY.  369 

the  southern  part  of  these  states,  also  add  to  the  insalubrity  of 
the  coast.  The  ancient  Csesars  and  the  modern  Popes  have  in 
vain  attempted  to  drain  them.  The  lake  of  Perugia,  near  the 
city  of  that  name,  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  four  miles  across, 
bordered  with  gently  sloping  hills,  everywhere  covered  with 
woods  or  cultivated  fields,  and  rising  at  a  distance  into  mountains. 
The  lakes  of  Albano  and  Nemi  are  charmingly  situated  among 
the  hills.     There  are  other  small  lakes. 

The  climate  is  mild,  but  the  mountains  are  covered  with  snow 
from  October  to  April.  The  Sirocco,  or  hot  wind  from  Africa, 
is  felt  on  the  shore  of  the  Mediterranean.  In  the  mountainous 
parts  the  air  is  healthy,  but  in  the  Maremma,  on  the  coast,  and  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  Pontine  marshes,  are  pestilential  exha- 
lations which  cause  fever  and  ague.  The  northern  parts,  near 
the  Po,  are  also  unhealthy. 

The  soil  does  not  differ  materially  from  that  of  Tuscany.  The 
oranges  and  lemons  produced  in  the  plain  of  Rome  are  the  best 
in  Italy.  The  lands  are  commonly  held  by  great  proprietors. 
In  the  plain  of  the  Po  cultivation  is  active,  but  the  rest  of  the 
country  is  neglected.  The  Romans  are  less  industrious  than 
their  northern  neighbours.  The  vine  and  olive  grow  everywhere. 
Onions  are  raised  in  immense  quantities  in  the  marshes  of  Ancona. 
Hemp,  saffron,  and  beans,  are  extensively  cultivated. 

The  commerce  is  chiefly  in  the  hands  of  foreigners,  and  the 
only  sea-port  of  consequence  is  Civita  Vecchia.  The  manufactures 
merely  supply  the  home  consumption.  Some  silk  is  manufactured 
at  Bologna,  beside  many  miscellaneous  articles.  Gall-nuts  and 
cantharides  are  articles  of  exportation. 

The  government  is  an  elective  monarchy.  The  pope  possesses 
both  the  legislative  and  executive  power,  and  is  chosen  by  the 
college  of  cardinals  from  among  themselves.  The  number  of 
cardinals  is  about  70.  Constitutionally,  the  pope  is  an  absolute 
sovereign,  but  in  practice  he  is  only  the  head  of  an  oligarchy. 
Since  the  time  of  Adrian  VI.,  who  was  obtruded  upon  the  throne 
by  Charles  V.,  all  the  popes  have  been  Italians.  The  military 
force  is  about  7000  men.     There  is  no  navy. 

Rome,  the  capital  of  this  territory,  once  the  capital  of  the  world, 
stands  on  the  Tiber,  15  miles  from  the  sea ;  is  13  miles  in 
circumference,  but  has  much  open  ground,  comprehending  gar- 
dens, fields,  and  meadows.  It  has  a  sombre  appearance,  rendered 
still  more  striking  by  large  squares,  spacious  and  deserted  streets, 
and  the  majestic  ruins  which  are  seen  at  every  step.  Some  of 
the  streets  are  of  immense  length  ;  others  are  half  built;  many 
are  narrow  and  crooked.  In  one  part  are  noble  palaces  half 
hidden  among  miserable  huts ;  in  another  part  all  is  gorgeous 

487 


370  EUROPE. 

and  magnificent.  Other  places  may  be  more  beautiful,  but  Rome 
is  one  of  the  most  richly  picturesque  cities  in  the  world.  The 
hills,  insignificant  in  themselves,  seem  made  to  display  the  build- 
ings to  the  greatest  advantage.  The  spectator  is  dazzled  with 
the  multiplicity  of  objects,  and  decaying  ruins  are  relieved  by 
modern  magnificence. 

The  church  of  St.  Peter,  built  at  the  expense  of  the  whole 
Roman  world,  is  the  glory  of  modern  architecture.  It  is  fronted 
by  a  circular  colonnade,  surrounding  an  Egyptian  obelisk,  and  two 
magnificent  fountains.  This  church  was  111  years  in  building, 
and  cost  a  sum  equal  to  160,000,000  dollars  at  the  present  day. 
No  other  church  in  Rome  can  be  compared  to  this,  yet  there  are 
many  remarkable  for  magnificence  and  antiquity.  The  Pantheon 
is  the  most  perfect  edifice  of  ancient  Rome  ;  it  is  now  converted 
into  a  church ;  its  portico  is  unrivalled.  Trajan's  pillar  is  a  fine 
monumental  column,  in  good  preservation.  But  the  most  won- 
derful monument  of  Roman  magnificence  is  the  Coliseum,  an 
amphitheatre,  capable  of  containing  60,000  spectators,  and  in 
which  the  Roman  people  assembled  to  witness  the  combats  of 
gladiators  and  wild  beasts.  It  is  now  a  ruin,  but  enough  of  it 
remains  to  attest  its  former  magnificence. 

The  Vatican  palace  is  the  greatest  repository  of  ancient  and 
modern  art  in  existence.  The  whole  pile  of  building,  with  its 
gardens,  comprises  a  circuit  of  some  miles,  and  the  apartments 
are  numbered  at  4442.  The  library  is  an  immense  collection. 
The  Vatican  is  the  residence  of  the  pope  in  winter.  Rome  has 
300  churches  and  300  palaces.  The  Corso,  a  street  nearly  a 
mile  long,  is  a  fashionable  drive,  where  the  better  class  display 
their  equipages  daily.  During  the  carnival,  a  horse-race  takes 
place  here,  which  has  given  the  street  its  modern  name.  The 
country  around  Rome  abounds  with  the  remains  of  antiquity  and 
with  villas.  The  city  is  unhealthy  from  the  malaria  or  impure 
atmosphere  in  summer.     Population,  155,000. 

Bologna,  the  next  city  in  size  to  Rome,  is  situated  in  the 
northern  part  of  the  Roman  territory.  It  is  surrounded  by  a 
brick  wall,  six  miles  in  circuit.  Its  curious  leaning  towers  and 
antique  spires,  have  a  singular  and  striking  effect.  The  city 
has  a  venerable  aspect,  without  being  ruinous,  and  abounds  with 
large  churches  and  handsome  palaces.  Here  is  a  university 
founded  in  425,  the  oldest  in  Europe,  and  said  to  have  been  at 
one  time  attended  by  10,000  students.  The  public  library  has 
160,000  volumes.     Population,  71,000. 

Ferrara  is  one  of  the  largest  towns  in  Italy.  It  is  regularly 
and  superbly  built,  but  the  traveller  would  imagine  that  the 
inhabitants  had  just  abandoned  it.    The  streets  are  grass-grown, 


ITALY. 


The  Villa  Borghese,  in  the  vicinity  of  Rome. 

The  villas,  or  country  residences  of  the  Roman  nobles,  are  often  composed  of  beautiful  and 
spacious  mansions,  surrounded  by  extensive  gardens.  The  villa  Borghese  is  one  of  the  raosS 
noted.    Its  finely-ornamented  walks  are  open  for  the  recreation  of  the  public. 


Great  Fall  of  Tivoli,  fifteen  miles  from  Rome. 

The  Falls  of  Tivoli  are  formed  by  the  river  Teverone.  They  have  been  long  celebrated,  and! 
are  regarded  as  among  the  finest  cascades  in  Europe.  Their  beauties  have  been  described  by 
some  of  the  most  noted  writers,  both  in  prose  and  verse.  The  great  fall  descends  about  100 
feet ;  the  smaller  one  is  of  less  elevation,  and  possesses  less  interest. 


.Utile  Fall  of  Tivoli. 


The  Quarries  of  Puzzolana,  six  miles  from  Naples. 


The  Quarries  of  Puzzolana  produce  the  well-known  cement,  so  remarkable  for  the  valuable- 
property  it  possesses  of  hardening  under  water. 

483 


EUROPE. 


View  of  the  City  of  Naples. 


Sorento. 

Sorento  is  a  small  seaport,  situated  on  the  extremity  of  the  Bay  of  Naples.  It  is  admired  for 
the  striking  aspect  of  its  volcanic  rocks.  The  country  in  the  vicinity  is  well  cultivated,  and  is 
noted  for  its  fine  fruits.    The  wines  of  Sorento  were  much  esteemed  by  the  ancients. 


Salerno. 

Salerno  is  situated  at  the  head  of  the  gulf  of  that  name.  The  surrounding  mountains  give 
it  a  romantic  and  interesting  appearance.  During  the  middle  ages,  the  medical  school  of  this 
place  was  in  such  high  repute  as  to  be  greatly  resorted  to  from  all  quarters  ;  even  Arabian  and 
♦Saracen  pupils  studied  here. 

4'JO 


NAPLES.  371 

and  all  the  large  houses  are  empty.  The  cows  pasture  undis- 
turbed upon  the  pavements  in  front  of  noble  palaces.  The  city 
possesses  few  advantages  of  situation,  but  was  once  very  populous. 
At  present  it  has  24,000  inhabitants.  Ravenna,  near  the  Gulf 
of  Venice,  had  once  a  harbour,  which  is  now  filled  up.  It  was  at 
one  time  the  seat  of  the  Italian  Exarchs,  and  contains  the  tomb 
of  Dante.  Population,  24,000.  Ancona,  on  the  Gulf  of  Venice, 
is  a  strong  place,  with  a  tolerable  harbour.  Population,  30,000. 
Civita  Vecchia,  a  sea-port  on  the  Mediterranean,  has  some  com- 
merce and  8000  inhabitants. 

Republic  of  San  Marino. — This  little  territory,  the  most 
free  and  virtuous  of  all  republics,  is  an  independent  state  under 
the  protection  of  the  pope.  It  has  existed  almost  1400  years, 
exemplifying  in  the  virtue,  simplicity,  and  happiness  of  its 
people,  the  powerful  influence  of  free  institutions. 

The  government  is  a  mixture  of  aristocracy  and  democracy. 
The  magistrates  and  legislators  are  for  the  most  part  elected  for 
life.  The  revenue  of  the  state  amounts  to  $15,000.  The  army 
consists  of  60  men.  The  population  of  the  capital  is  about  5000. 
Four  villages  constitute  the  rest  of  the  territory  of  the  republic. 
Area,  22  square  miles  ;  population,  9000. 


NAPLES,  OR  THE  TWO  SICILIES. 

Naples,  or  the  two  Sicilies,  is  the  most  considerable  state  in 
Italy  for  extent  and  population  ;  but,  owing  to  the  supine  and  indo- 
lent character  of  its  government,  the  kingdom  has  no  weight  in  the 
political  system  of  Europe.  It  comprises  Naples,  the  most  south- 
ern division  of  Italy,  and  the  island  of  Sicily  and  the  Lipari  isles. 
The  continental  section  contains  30,500  square  miles,  and  the 
islands  12,200.     Total,  42,700.     Population,  7,414,000. 

The  ridge  of  the  Apennines  extends  through  the  whole  of  Na- 
ples, from  north  to  south,  and  gives  rise  to  numerous  small  but 
beautiful  streams,  of  which  the  Garigliano,  Vulturno,  Sele,  Vasi- 
ento,  Crati,  &c,  are  the  chief:  none  of  these,  however,  exceed 
100  miles  in  their  length  of  course. 

This  kingdom  is  distinguished  for  its  natural  fertility,  and  com- 
prises some  of  the  finest  sections  of  Italy.  Vegetation  throughout 
most  parts  of  the  country,  is  rich  and  exuberant.  Here  flourish  the 
fig-tree,  the  almond,  the  cotton-plant,  and  sugar-cane.  Sicily  is  one 
of  the  most  productive  spots  on  the  earth.  The  soil  is  calcareous, 
and  its  fertility  is  much  increased  by  volcanic  fire. 


372  EUROPE. 

Agriculture  is  badly  managed,  and  the  cultivators  are  poor.  On 
the  continent  are  produced  wine,  oil,  silk,  wheat,  Indian-corn,  &c. ; 
Sicily  produces  the  same  articles,  with  flax  and  hemp :  oranges, 
lemons,  figs,  and  almonds  are  raised,  in  great  quantities.  The 
exports  consist  chiefly  of  the  products  of  the  country,  and  are  not 
extensive.  The  commerce  is  entirely  in  the  hands  of  foreigners. 
There  are  no  manufactures  of  any  consequence. 

Education  and  the  sciences  are  in  a  low  state  throughout  the 
kingdom,  and  there  are  no  schools  for  the  instruction  of  the  lower 
class.  The  three  universities  at  Naples,  Palermo,  and  Catania 
are  provided  with  fine  libraries  and  numerous  professors,  but  little 
is  taught  in  them  besides  law  and  natural  philosophy. 

The  government  is  a  constitutional  hereditary  monarchy ;  yet 
the  king  exercises  both  the  legislative  and  the  executive  power. 
The  army  consists  of  28,000  men,  and  the  navy  of  two  ships  of 
the  line,  five  frigates,  and  fifty  sail  of  small  vessels,  all  in  a  very 
inefficient  condition. 

Sicily  is  the  largest  island  in  the  Mediterranean :  it  is  separated 
from  the  continent  by  the  strait  of  Messina,  which  is  five  miles 
wide.  The  mountains  of  this  island  may  be  regarded  as  a  contin- 
uation of  the  Apennines.  Mount  Etna,  near  the  eastern  shore,  is 
10,925  feet  in  height.  This  celebrated  volcano  has  thrown  out 
flames,  at  intervals,  for  more  than  2000  years.  Its  immense  size 
and  solitary  elevation,  the  beauty  and  magnificence  of  the  sur- 
rounding scenery,  and  the  terrific  grandeur  of  its  eruptions,  have 
made  it  one  of  the  wonders  of  the  world. 

The  Lipari  islands  lie  north  of  Sicily.  They  are  12  in  number, 
and  contain  a  population  of  20,000  :  a  part  of  them  only  are  inhab- 
ited. Stromboli  is  a  volcano  that  burns  without  ceasing.  Volcano, 
another  island,  constantly  emits  smoke.  Capri,  Ischia,  and  Procida, 
are  small  fertile  islands  in  the  Bay  of  Naples. 

Naples,  the  capital  of  the  kingdom,  is  the  largest  city  in  Italy. 
It  stands  on  the  splendid  bay  of  the  same  name,  and  with  its  su- 
burbs and  contiguous  villages  extends  six  or  eight  miles  along  the 
water.  Nothing  can  surpass  the  beauty  of  the  bay  or  the  prospect 
of  the  city  viewed  from  the  water,  where  its  long  lines  of  palaces, 
splendid  gardens,  and  terraced  roofs  are  seen  to  great  advantage. 
The  dark  towering  summit  of  Vesuvius  rises  to  the  height  of  3932 
feet  above  the  bay,  while  its  lower  regions  are  covered  with  the 
richest  vegetation,  and  dotted  with  white  country-houses. 

The  streets  of  the  city  are  straight  but  narrow ;  some  are  re- 
freshed with  fountains  ;  others  are  decorated  with  statues  and  sculp- 
tured obelisks.  The  houses  are  high,  the  roofs  flat.  Naples  in 
its  interior  has  no  parallel  on  earth.  The  whole  population  is  out 
of  doors  and  in  incessant  motion.     Every  trade,  occupation,  and 


ITALY. 


Olranto. 
Otranto,  on  the  strait  of  the  same  name,  and  in  the  most  eastern  part  of  Italy,  is  a  Bmal!  bat 
ancient  town,  now  chiefly  distinguished  for  its  spacious  castle,  which  has  been  celebrated  even 
in  romance. 


Pompeii. 

Herculaneum  and  Pompeii  are  remarkable  for  having  been  buried  by  an  eruption  of  Vesuvius, 
in  the  reign  of  Titus,  A.  D.  79  ;  and  so  completely  covered  with  lava  and  ashes  were  both  of 
these  cities,  that  a  knowledge  of  their  precise  situation  was  lost  for  almost  seventeen  centuries. 
Herculaneum  was  discovered  in  1738,  and  Pompeii  in  1750.  Many  ancient  streets  and  buildings 
are  again  thrown  open,  and  in  them  we  see,  as  it  were,  the  domestic  life  of  the  ancients. 


Tarento. 
Tarento,  the  ancient  Tarentum,  was  once  the  capital  of  a  powerful  republic,  and  the  rival 
of  Rome.    Though  still  possessing  some  trade,  it  is  comparatively  unimportant.    Its  caslle  is  a 
fortress  of  some  strength.    The  inhabitants  are  chiefly  fishermen. 

2R  493 


EUROPE. 


Squillace. 
Squillace,  in  Calabria,  the  most  southern  province  of  Naples,  is  a  small  but  ancient  and 
picturesque  town  ;  it  was  much  injured  by  the  great  earthquake  of  1783. 


I'lain  of  SybariB 
The  Plain  of  Sybaris,  in  the  southern  part  of  Italy,  is  a  rich  tract  of  country.    It  is  diversified 
with  fruitful  groves  of  oranges  and  citron,  above  which  rise  finely-cultivated  hills  ;  while  the  dis- 
tance is  formed  by  the  mountains  of  Calabria,  capped  with  almost  perpetual  snow. 


Corigliano. 
Corigliano,  situated  ten  miles  west  of  Otranto,  stands  very  nearly  on  the  site  of  the  ancient 
Sybaris.    It  presents  a  striking  and  picturesque  appearance. 


Girgenti. 

Girgenti,  situated  near  the  southern  coast  of  Sicily,  occupies  part  of  the  site  of  the  ancient 

Agrigcntum,  once  the  largest  city  in  the  island,  and,  for  a  time,  the  rival  of  Cartilage.   The 

lemains  of  many  interesting  antiquities  are  to  be  seen  here. 

494 


IONIAN  REPUBLIC.  373 

amusement  is  here  going  on  in  the  midst  of  a  tumultuous  crowd 
rolling  up  and  down.  The  number  of  lazzaroni,  or  vagabonds, 
is  immense.  They  are  idle  from  choice  :  their  tatters  do  not  indi- 
cate misery,  for  the  climate  requires  hardly  any  covering.  Six 
strong  castles  defend  the  city,  and  an  excellent  mole  shelters  the 
port.  There  are  above  300  churches  in  Naples,  remarkable  for 
their  rich  ornaments.  The  nobility  are  numerous,  and  120  of  them 
have  the  title  of  princes.     Population,  364,000. 

Torre  del  Greco,  a  sea-port  near  Naples,  has  13,000  inhabitants; 
Gaeta,  15,000  ;  and  Lecci  also  has  15,000.  Bari,  on  the  Adri- 
atic, has  a  good  harbour,  and  a  population  of  19,000. 

Palermo,  the  capital  of  Sicily,  is  a  fine  city.  The  streets  are 
regular  and  wide;  the  houses  elegant,  and  several  of  the  public 
squares  very  beautiful.  Population,  168,000.  Catania  lies  at  the 
foot  of  Mount  Etna.  It  was  founded  700  years  before  the  Chris- 
tian era,  and  has  suffered  severely  from  eruptions  of  the  mountain 
and  earthquakes.     Population,  47,000. 

Messina  stands  upon  the  strait  of  that  name ;  it  is  regularly 
built,  has  one  of  the  best  harbours  in  the  Mediterranean,  and  is  the 
first  commercial  town  in  the  kingdom.  It  was  completely  destroy- 
ed by  an  earthquake  in  1783,  but  has  been  rebuilt.  Population, 
40,000.  Trapani,  Syracuse,  and  Girgenti  are  towns  of  some  note 
on  the  coast,  and  have  each  respectively  24,000,  18,000,  and 
12,000  inhabitants. 


IONIAN    REPUBLIC. 

The  Ionian  Islands  is  the  name  given  to  a  range  extending 
chiefly  along  the  coast  of  Greece.  The  principal  islands  are 
Cephalonia,  Corfu,  Zante,  Santa  Maura,  Theaki,  and  Cerigo ; 
the  latter  is  situated  at  a  considerable  distance  from  the  rest,  oft* 
the  southern  coast  of  the  Morea. 

These  islands  once  formed  a  part  of  the  dominions  of  the  late 
republic  of  Venice  ;  they  afterwards  belonged  to  France  ;  but  in 
the  year  1815,  the  congress  of  Vienna  formed  them  into  a 
separate  state,  by  the  title  of  the  Ionian  Republic,  or  the  Repub- 
lic of  the  Seven  Islands,  and  placed  them  under  the  protection  of 
Great  Britain.  The  inhabitants,  190,000  in  number,  are  chiefly 
Greeks  and  Italians,  with  some  Jews. 

The  Lord  High  Commissioner,  who  is  at  the  head  of  the 
government,  is  appointed  by  the  sovereign  of  Great  Britain. 
The  legislative  assembly  consists  of  29  elective  and  11  integral 
members,  all  of  the  class  of  nobles :  the  former  are  chosen  for 
the  term  of  five  years  by  the  nobles ;  the  latter  are  virtually,  if  not 
directly,  nominated  by  the  High  Commissioner.  The  senate  con- 
sists of  a  president,  nominated  by  the  commissioner,  and  five  mem- 
bers chosen  by  the  Legislative  assembly  from  their  own  number. 

32  493 


374 


EUROPE. 


These  islands,  like  the  opposite  coast  of  Greece,  are  rocky, 
rugged,  and  picturesque.  This  surface  renders  them  ill  fitted 
for  the  cultivation  of  grain  ;  but  wine  and  fruits,  especially  the 
latter,  are  raised  in  great  perfection.  The  species  of  small  grape, 
which,  when  dried,  are  called  currants,  and  olive  oil,  are  largely 
exported.  Honey,  wine,  and  flax,  are  the  other  most  important 
articles  of  agricultural  industry.  The  annual  value  of  the  exports 
is  about  $1,200,000.  The  public  revenue,  independent  of  the 
military  establishment  which  is  supported  by  the  British  govern- 
ment, is  $700,000  per  annum. 

The  following  table  gives  a  general  view  of  the  Ionian  islands  : 


Names. 

Cephalonia 

Corfu 

Zante 

Santa  Maura 

Cerigo  (with  Cerigotto) 
Theaki  (with  Calamos) 
Paxo  (with  Antipaxo) . . 


Sq.  M. 

Population. 

350 

59,000 

240 

56,000 

140 

35,000 

100 

18,000 

90 

9,000 

60 

8,000 

20 
1000 

5,000 

190,000 

Capitals. 

Argostoli 

Corfu 

Zante 

Santa  Maura . . 

Modari 

Vathi 

St.  Gago 


Population. 
4,000 
17,000 
18,000 
5,000 
1,000 
2,000 
4,000 


Zante  is  the  richest  and  most  flourishing  of  these  islands,  but 
Corfu  contains  the  city  of  Corfu,  which  is  strongly  fortified,  and 
is  the  seat  of  government  of  the  republic.  Argostoli,  Corfu,  and 
Zante,  are  the  principal  ports. 

Malta  is  an  island  in  the  Mediterranean  Sea,  about  54  miles 
to  the  southward  of  Sicily :  it  is  about  60  miles  in  circuit,  and, 
together  with  the  neighbouring  small  islands  of  Gozzo  and 
Comino,  belongs  to  Great  Britain.  These  islands  were  formerly 
in  the  possession  of  the  Knights  of  St.  John,  a  rich  and  powerful 
military  order.  They  were  captured  from  them  by  Napoleon 
Bonaparte  on  his  voyage  to  Egypt,  and  were  afterwards  taken 
by  the  British  in  the  year  1800. 

In  no  part  of  Europe  are  the  fortifications  so  imposing.  In 
Gibraltar,  admiration  is  excited  by  the  works  of  nature;  in  Malta, 
by  those  of  art.  To  garrison  the  latter  completely,  would  require 
above  30,000  men.  Malta  was  originally  nothing  but  a  barren 
rock ;  but  such  quantities  of  soil  have  been  carried  to  it  from 
Sicily  and  Africa,  that  it  is  now  fertile  and  well  cultivated.  The 
people  are  industrious,  and  raise  grain,  cotton,  and  excellent 
fruits,  particularly  oranges.  Population,  104,000.  On  the 
neighbouring  smaller  island  of  Gozzo  there  are  16,000;  and  Co- 
mino, lying  between  Malta  and  Gozzo,  contains  600  inhabitants. 

La  Valetta,  the  capital  and  port  of  Malta,  being  situated  on  a 
narrow  tongue  of  land,  with  a  noble  harbour  on  each  side,  forms 
an  admirable  naval  station,  deriving  great  importance  from  its 


ITALY, 


Port  of  Messina,  in  Sicily. 


Catania,  in  Sicily, 

Catania  is  the  finest  city  in  Sicily.  It  contains  many  Greek  and  Saracenic  structures.  Some 
of  the  modern  buildings  are  large  and  handsome.  The  University  is  celebrated.  The  streets 
are  wide  and  well  paved  with  lava. 


Temple  of  Segeste,  in  Sicily. 
The  Temple  of  Scgesle,  near  Trapani,  in  the  western  part  of  Sicily,  is  a  simple,  grand,  and 
almost  entire  edifice,  standing  on  a  solitary  hill, 

iiU*  497 


EUROPE. 


Ruins  of  Selinus,  in  Sicily. 
The  remains  of  Selinus,  in  the  western  part  of  Sicily,  consist  of  fragments  of  huge  columtw 
and  vast  blocks  of  stone,  forming  the  most  stupendous  mass  of  ruins  in  Europe. 


Temple  of  Jupiter  Olympus,  in  Sicily. 
The  Temple  of  Jupiter  Olympus,  near  Girgenti,  was  a  vast  structure,  "88  by  188  feet.    It  is 
altogether  in  ruins ;  and  has  been  called  the  Temple  of  Giants,  from  the  great  size  of  •he 
stones  used  in  its  construction 


Temple  of  Concord. 
The  Temple  of  Concord,  which  stands  in  the  vicinity  of  that  of  Jupiter  Olympus,  is  a  fine 
specimen  of  the  Doric  order  of  architecture,  and  is  in  a  state  of  tolerable  preservation. 


498 


GREECE.  375 

position  in  the  heart  of  the  Mediterranean.  It  serves  also,  espe- 
cially during  war,  as  a  commercial  depot,  whence  goods  may  be 
introduced  into  Italy  and  the  Levant.  Population,  32,000.  Citta 
Vecchia,  in  the  centre  of  the  island,  is  also  well  fortified. 
Population,  5000. 


GREECE. 

Greece,  or  Hellas,  as  it  is  called  by  the  natives,  is  one  of  the 
most  celebrated  countries  in  the  world.  Its  name  is  dear  to 
every  man  of  taste  and  lover  of  learning.  Two  thousand  years 
ago  Greece  excelled  all  other  nations  in  civilization,  literature 
and  the  arts.  It  was  for  almost  the  whole  of  the  last  four  cen- 
turies subject  to  Turkish  bondage,  but  has  lately,  after  a  bloody 
and  protracted  warfare,  become  free  and  independent. 

Modern  Greece  comprises  only  a  portion  of  the  ancient  country 
of  that  name.  It  comprehends  a  section  of  the  most  southern 
part  of  Europe,  together  with  a  number  of  islands  in  the  Archi- 
pelago. It  is  formed  of  two  peninsulas,  of  which  that  of  the 
Morea  is  the  most  southern.  It  is  joined  to  the  mainland  by  the 
isthmus  of  Corinth.  The  kingdom  is  encompassed,  on  all  sides, 
by  the  sea,  except  the  north,  where  it  is  separated  from  European 
Turkey  by  a  boundary  which  stretches  from  the  Gulf  of  Volo  to 
that  of  Arta. 

The  interior  of  Greece  is  greatly  diversified  with  rugged 
mountains,  and  with  fertile  and  picturesque  vales.  Along  the 
shores  there  are  beautiful  plains,  the  soil  of  which  is  fruitful,  and 
the  climate  delightful.  There  are  many  inlets  and  bays,  afford- 
ing great  facilities  for  commerce,  and  presenting  strong  induce- 
ments to  navigation.  In  various  parts  of  Greece,  there  still  remain 
many  interesting  monuments  of  antiquity.  The  ruins  of  temples, 
known  to  have  been  built  3000  years  ago,  exist  at  the  present 
day.  It  is  remarkable  that  these  remains  exhibit  a  styleof  archi- 
tecture, common  in  that  remote  age,  more  truly  chaste  and  beau- 
tiful than  has  been  since  devised. 

The  general  divisions  of  Greece  are  the  four  provinces  of 
Western  Hellas,  Eastern  Hellas,  the  Morea,  and  the  Isles  which 
are  divided  into  ten  nomoi,  and  these  again  are  subdivided  into 
48  eparchies.  The  area  of  the  whole  is  about  21,000  square 
miles.  The  population  is  estimated  at  from  600,000  to  1,000,000. 
Many  of  the  mountains  of  this  country  are  greatly  renowned  in 
history  and  poetry.  The  most  celebrated,  however,  as  Athos, 
Olympus,  Pindus,  Pelion,  &c.  are  not  comprised  in  the  present 


376  EUROPE. 

kingdom.  Parnassus,  Helicon,  and  Hymettus,  on  the  mainland, 
and  Taygetus,  in  the  Morea,  are  the  best  known  of  those 
included  in  modern  Greece.  The  rivers  Aspropotamus  and  the 
Alpheus  are  the  principal  Greek  streams ;  they  are  however 
small,  the  first  being  only  140  miles  in  its  length  of  course,  and 
the  other  about  one  half  of  that  extent.  The  Gulf  of  Lepanto, 
in  the  west,  and  Egina,  in  the  east,  are  separated  from  each  other 
by  the  isthmus  of  Corinth,  which  is  only  five  miles  wide,  and 
connects  the  peninsula  of  the  Morea  with  the  continent.  The 
other  important  inlets  are  the  gulfs  of  Arta  and  Arcadia,  on  the 
west,  Coron,  Colokythia  and  Napoli,  on  the  south,  and  Volo  and 
Zeitoun,  on  the  east. 

The  agriculture  of  this  region  is  very  imperfect,  yet,  so  genial 
are  the  soil  and  climate,  that  the  products  are  abundant.  Wheat, 
barley,  Indian-corn,  cotton,  &c,  are  generally  cultivated ;  and 
honey,  oil,  and  wine,  are  also  produced.  Greece,  however,  is 
almost  altogether  a  pastoral  country ;  the  people  are  skilled  in 
the  management  of  cattle,  sheep,  and  goats,  which  are  fed  in  vast 
numbers  on  the  sides  of  the  hills  and  on  the  high  plains  of  the 
interior. 

Manufactures  are  in  a  still  ruder  state  than  agriculture,  and 
the  country  is  indebted  to  foreigners  for  every  thing,  except  a 
few  coarse  and  common  fabrics.  Commerce  is  carried  on  with 
much  greater  activity  than  any  of  the  other  branches  of  industry, 
and  has  been  one  of  the  main  instruments  in  raising  this  renowned 
country  from  its  extreme  depression.  A  prodigious  impulse  was 
given  to  the  commerce  of  this  country  by  the  general  war  conse- 
quent on  the  French  revolution,  which  left  the  Greek  for  a  long 
time  the  only  neutral  flag  in  Europe.  The  islands,  and  parti- 
cularly the  little  harbours  of  Hydra,  Ipsara,  and  Spezzia,  not 
only  exported  the  produce  of  Greece  itself,  but  maintained  the 
carrying  trade  from  port  to  port  all  around  the  Mediterranean. 

In  1809,  the  exports  were  estimated  to  amount  to  14  million 
dollars.  It  is  difficult  to  ascertain  the  present  condition  of  the 
commerce  of  this  country.  During  the  late  dreadful  contest  it 
was  trodden  under  foot,  and  the  people  of  Hydra,  in  whom  it 
centred,  had  all  their  resources  occupied  by  war,  nor  has  it  pro- 
bably revived  at  all  to  its  ancient  extent.  In  1832,  however, 
the  Greek  merchant-vessels  exceeded  1000  in  number. 

The  Greek  army,  in  1820,  was  estimated  at  50,000  men,  con- 
sisting of  brave  but  irregular  troops,  and  commanded  by  skilful 
generals.  The  military  force  at  present  does  not  probably 
exceed  15,000  men.  The  navy  was  composed  mostly  of  merchant 
brigs  belonging  to  the  islands,  amounting  to  about  80  sail.  They 
generally  beat  the  Turkish  fleets  during  the  war,  and  many  of 


GREECE. 


Mount  Parnassus. 

Parnassus,  the  most  elevated  mountain  in  Greece,  is  near  6000  feet  high.  It  was  sacred  to 
Apollo  and  the  muses,  and  also  to  Bacchus.  This  mountain  became  celebrated  in  early  ages  ; 
and  its  fame  has  descended  to  us  through  the  writings  of  the  Greek  authors. 


Grotto  of  Antiparos,  on  a  small  island  in  the  Archipelago. 

This  Grotto  consists  of  a  series  of  cavos,  the  sides  of  which  are  encrusted  with  crystallized 
marble  as  white  as  snow.  When  properly  lighted  up,  these  caverns  present  a  scene  of  unrival- 
led splendour. 


The  Pass  leading  to  the  Vale  of  Tempe. 

The  Vale  of  Tcmpe  is  a  beautiful  valley,  the  approach  to  which  is  through  a  narrow  rocky 
defile.  It  was  highly  eulogised  by  the  Greek  writers  for  its  sequestered  and  picturesque  scenery. 
The  observations  of  modern  travellers  verify  the  ancient  descriptions. 

501 


EUROPE. 


Plain  of  Marathon,  fifteen  miles  from  Athens. 

Marathon  is  celebrated  for  the  victory  gained,  in  the  year  500  B.  C,  by  the  Greeks,  under 
Miltiades,  over  the  Persians.  The  great  tumulus,  or  barrow,  is  supposed  to  have  been  erected 
over  the  bodies  of  the  slain. 


Delphi,  at  the  base  of  Mount  Parnassus. 

Delphi  was  the  seat  of  a  heathen  oracle,  and  the  most  celebrated  of  the  ancient  shrines  to 
which  the  credulous  pagans  resorted.  The  Bplendid  temple  dedicated  to  Apollo  has  entirely 
disappeared,  and  even  its  exact  situation  is  unknown.  The  small  village  of  Castro  occupies 
the  site  of  the  ancient  city. 


Cheronea,  near  the  base  of  Mount  Parnassus. 

Cheronea  was  a  great  battle-field,  on  which  the  fate  of  Greece  was  repeatedly  decided.    A 
most  conspicuous  tumulus  still  exists,  a  monument  of  the  ensanguined  field. 

502 


GREECE.  377 

the  largest  Turkish  vessels  were  destroyed  by  means  of  fire- 
ships,  the  employment  of  which  was,  with  the  Greeks,  a  favourite 
mode  of  warfare. 

The  great  body  of  the  people  of  Greece  are  destitute  of  educa- 
tion and  knowledge,  but  they  are  anxious  for  improvement,  and 
are  eager  to  rise  from  the  degradation  consequent  upon  their 
long  political  servitude.  The  Greeks  are  an  active,  vigorous 
race  of  people,  and  are  generally  distinguished  for  their  personal 
beauty  ;  their  complexion  is  dark  and  clear,  and  their  eyes  ani- 
mated and  brilliant.  In  their  late  contest  with  the  Turks,  they 
displayed  a  courage  and  bravery  not  unworthy  their  heroic 
ancestors. 

The  religion  of  the  Greeks  is  that  of  the  church  which  bears 
their  name.  Though  it  retains  the  title  of  Christian,  it  is  lament- 
ably fraught  with  ignorance  and  superstition,  being  a  system  of 
mere  forms  and  ceremonies,  with  but  little  of  the  light  or  spirit 
of  the  Gospel.  Strenuous  exertions  have  been  made  for  some 
time  past,  by  several  missionary  and  philanthropic  societies  in 
the  United  States  and  Great  Britain,  to  improve  the  moral  and 
spiritual  condition  of  this  interesting  people. 

Learning  in  Greece,  where  it  once  flourished  with  such  unri- 
valled splendour,  had  fallen  into  a  state  of  total  extinction.  As 
soon,  however,  as  the  government  had  become  settled,  schools 
of  mutual  instruction  were  established  in  various  places,  and  the 
formation  of  central  schools  and  libraries,  and  of  a  university 
at  Athens,  was  decreed.  All  these  institutions  are  yet  only  in 
their  infancy ;  but  there  cannot  be  a  doubt  that  the  exertions 
now  making  for  the  improvement  of  the  people  of  Greece,  will 
result  in  elevating  their  intellectual  character  as  a  nation.  Five 
newspapers  and  a  periodical  review  are  now  published  at  Athens. 

The  government  chosen  for  this  country,  by  the  great  European 
powers,  is  a  limited  monarchy,  with  a  Senate  and  House  of  Re- 
presentatives. The  selected  sovereign  is  Otho,  son  of  Charles 
Louis,  of  Bavaria.  In  1833,  he  arrived  in  Greece,  accompanied 
by  a  council  of  regency,  and  was  acknowledged  by  the  people 
as  their  sovereign.  In  June,  1838,  Otho,  being  of  age,  took  the 
direction  of  the  affairs  of  state.  He  bears  the  title  of  the  King 
of  Greece.  The  administration  of  the  national  affairs  has  not,  as 
yet,  realized  the  expectations  of  the  friends  of  Grecian  liberty. 

The  islands  form  a  prominent  and  interesting  appendage  to 
Greece;  the  principal  of  these  are  Negropont,  the  Cyclades,  the 
Sporades,  the  Ionian  Islands,  and  Candia, — the  two  last  are  now, 
however,  politically  distinct. 

Negropont  is  a  long,  narrow  island,  100  miles  in  length,  and 
from  six  to  twenty  broad.     It  is  separated  from  the  continent  by 

32  *  503 


378  EUROPE. 

the  strait  of  Egripo,  which,  in  some  places,  is  only  a  feu- 
hundred  feet  wide,  and  is  crossed  by  several  bridges.  The 
island  is  diversified  by  rugged  mountains  and  fertile  valleys. 
The  capital,  Negropont,  has  a  population  of  10,000  or  12,000, 
and  is  an  important  commercial  town. 

The  northern  Sporades,  lying  north-east  of  Negropont,  com- 
prise Skyro,  Chelidonia,  and  some  other  islands.  The  Western 
Sporades,  which  lie  along  the  east  coast  of  the  Morea,  are  Hydra, 
Spezzia,  Poros,  Egina,  &c. 

The  two  islands  of  Hydra  and  Spezzia,  though  little  favoured 
by  nature,  have,  in  a  singular  manner,  taken  the  lead  of  all  the 
states  and  islands  of  Greece.  The  former,  a  rugged  mass  of 
rock,  with  scarcely  a  spot  of  verdure,  contains  about  40,000  in- 
habitants, many  of  whom  have  acquired  considerable  wealth. 
Their  energies  were,  during  the  revolution,  exclusively  turned  to 
war,  and,  perhaps,  they  will  never  regain  their  former  extensive 
commerce.  Spezzia  is  a  sort  of  outwork  of  Hydra,  with  only 
3000  inhabitants,  yet  with  somewhat  more  of  cultivation.  Hydra, 
the  capital  of  the  island  of  the  same  name,  is  a  well-built  town, 
with  about  20,000  inhabitants :  it  contains  handsome  houses  and 
quays,  and  clean  streets. 

The  Cyclades,  a  numerous  and  celebrated  group,  are  inter- 
posed between  Candia  and  Asia  Minor,  but  nearer  to  the  continent, 
from  which  they  recede  in  a  south-east  direction.  Their  aspect, 
bold,  rocky,  yet  richly  verdant,  presents  to  the  vessels  sailing 
through  it  scenes  of  varied  beauty.  The  principal  of  these  are 
Paros,  Antiparos,  Naxio,  Santorini,  Milo,  Argentera,  Syra,  An- 
dro,  Sino,  Zea,  &c.  The  city  of  Syra,  on  the  island  of  the  same 
name,  is  the  capital  of  the  Cyclades,  and  one  of  the  principal 
commercial  places  in  Greece.     Population,  25,000. 

Candia,  lately  ceded  to  the  Pacha  of  Egypt,  is  generally  con- 
sidered one  of  the  Greek  islands,  and  among  the  largest  in  the 
Mediterranean,  being  about  500  miles  in  circumference.  The 
interior  is  covered  with  mountains,  of  which  Mount  Ida  towers  to 
a  very  lofty  height.  The  inhabitants  of  Candia  are  a  fine  active 
and  spirited  race,  and  were  more  independent  of  the  Turkish 
government  than  the  vassals  of  most  other  parts  of  the  empire. 

Candia,  the  capital,  has  had  its  harbour  choked  up  with  sand, 
and  the  greater  part  of  its  trade  has  passed  to  Canea.  It  still 
bears  the  traces  of  a  handsome  town,  with  substantial  houses 
formed  into  regular  streets  and  squares ;  but  the  havoc  of  its 
long  siege,  and  subsequent  desertion,  give  it  a  very  gloomy  aspect. 
The  former  event,  protracted  for  twenty-four  years,  forms  one 
of  the  most  memorable  eras  in  modern  history.  Canea  is  popu- 
lous and  flourishing,  having  15,000  inhabitants.    Between  Canea 


GREECE. 


Sepulchres  at  Plat<ca. 

Plata?a  is  celebrated  for  the  splendid  victory  gained  in  the  year  479  B.  C,  by  the  Greeks  over 
Mardonius,  the  general  of  Xerxes.  The  ancient  and  massive  sepulchres  still  existing,  are  sup- 
posed to  cover  the  remains  of  those  who  fell  in  the  battle. 


Town  of  Hydra. 

Hydra  is  one  of  the  most  noted  towns  of  Greece.  The  inhabitants,  called  Hydriots,  are 
celebrated  for  their  enterprise  and  courage.  Their  ships,  during  the  late  war,  were  among  the 
most  efficient  in  the  Greek  navy.  The  island  of  Hydra  is  about  sixteen  miles  long  and  two 
wide. 


Town  of  Syra. 

The  Town  of  Syra,  situated  on  the  island  of  the  same  name,  is  built  along  the  sides  of  a 
oonical  hill,  from  the  base  to  the  summit,  causing  it  to  resemble  a  mass  of  houses  built  one  on 
-he  top  of  another.  It  is  the  capital  of  the  islands  called  the  Cyclades,  and  one  of  the  most 
commercial  towns  in  Greece. 

2S  505 


EUROPE. 


View  of  Corinth  and  the  Acrocorinthus. 

Corinth,  one  of  the  most  magnificent  of  the  cities  of  ancient  Greece,  has  dwindled  to  a  very 
small  town,  now  nearly  all  in  ruins.  The  Acrocorinthus,  a  rock  2100  feet  high,  was  noted  in 
heathen  times  for  the  strong  citadel,  and  the  temple  of  Venus  built  on  it.  The  view  from  the 
top  over  the  most  interesting  partB  of  Greece,  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world. 


Quarries  of  Pentelicus. 

The  Quarries  of  Mount  Pentelicus,  near  Athens,  yielded  marble  of  the  finest  kind,  which 
was  the  principal  material  used  by  the  inhabitants  of  that  city  in  the  construction  of  their  mag 
nificent  temples,  and  other  public  buildings. 


Eleusis. 


Eleusis  was  noted  in  ancient  times  for  the  celebration  of  the  mysteries  of  Ceres  and  Proser- 
pine, and  was  a  place  of  great  resort.    The  mystic  temple,  planned  by  the  same  architect  who 

built  the  Parthenon,  now  offers  only  a  few  broken  columns  to  attest  its  situation. 

506 


The  Acropolis,  or  citadel,  is  a  high  abrupt  rock,  flat  on  the  top,  and  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
in  circuit.  It  forms  the  most  elevated  part  of  the  city  of  Athens,  and  has  been  noted  from  early 
<ime8.    During  the  late  war,  it  was  often  the  subject  of  contest  between  the  Greeks  and  Turks. 


Parthenon. 

The  Parthenon,  ot  Temple  of  Minerva,  was  the  most  splendid  of  the  ancient  Greek  edifices. 
It  is  built  in  the  Doric  style,  and  stands  on  the  Acropolis,  of  which  it  has  always  formed  the 
chief  ornament.  This  renowned  building  was  erected  by  Pericles,  during  the  most  classic  ago 
of  Athens,  of  the  finest  marble,  and  was  adorned  wiLh  sculptures  by  Phidias. 


Temple  of  Theseus. 

The  Temple  of  Theseus  was  a  fine  Doric  structure,  somewhat  resembling  the  Parthenon. 
Though  its  sculptures  are  greatly  injured,  enough  remains  to  attest  their  original  excellence. 
They  represent  the  exploits  of  Hercules  and  Theseus. 

507 


EUROPE, 


Erechtheum,  at  Athens. 

The  Erechtheum  ia  one  of  the  finest  specimens  of  the  Ionic  order.  It  consists  of  two  temples, 
both  of  smaller  extent  than  some  others  at  Athens.  It  excels  in  the  delicacy  of  its  sculptures 
and  ornaments.    This  ancient  edifice  was  greatly  injured  during  the  late  war. 


Temple  of  Apollo  Epicurios. 

Not  far  from  Arcadia,  on  the  west  coast  of  the  Morea,  is  the  Temple  of  Apollo  Epicurios. 
It  is  the  best  preserved  ancient  edifice  in  that  part  of  Greece. 


Ruins  of  the  Theatre,  at  Sparta. 

The  Theatre,  and  other  ruined  edifices  found  at  Sparta,  (now  Paleo  Chori,  in  the  Morea,) 

are  of  Roman  origin,  erected  after  the  country  and  city  of  Lycurgus  had  been  added  to  the 

dominions  of  Rome. 

508 


GREECE.  379 

and  Candia  is  Retimo,  a  well-built  town,  situated  in  a  delightful 
eountry  abounding  with  olive-trees. 

Athens,  the  capital  of  modern  Greece,  was  one  of  the  most  cele- 
brated cities  of  antiquity,  and  the  birth-place  of  the  most  re- 
nowned orators,  philosophers,  and  artists  of  ancient  times.  It 
was  decorated  with  innumerable  master-pieces  of  architecture 
and  sculpture,  and  their  remains  are  still  sufficient,  in  spite  of  the 
ravages  of  barbarous  conquerors,  to  command  the  admiration  of 
the  world.  The  Parthenon,  or  Temple  of  Minerva,  erected  on  a 
high  rock  called  the  Acropolis,  is  universally  admitted  to  be  a 
model  of  all  that  is  grand,  harmonious,  and  beautiful  in  archi- 
tecture. The  other  most  remarkable  remains  are  the  temples  of 
Jupiter  Olympus  and  Theseus,  the  Lantern  of  Demosthenes,  the 
Tower  of  the  Winds,  &c.  The  modern  city  occupies  but  a  small 
part  of  the  ancient  Athens.  It  suffered  much  during  the  late 
war  of  the  revolution.     Population,  14,000  or  15,000. 

Napoli  de  Romani  is  the  best-built  town  in  the  Morea.  From 
its  maritime  situation  and  great  natural  strength,  it  must  ever  be 
one  of  the  keys  of  Greece.  Its  harbour  is  good,  and  the  com- 
merce considerable.  Population,  15,000.  Tripolizza,  the  Turkish 
capital  of  the  Morea,  was  taken  during  the  war  and  is  now 
mostly  in  ruins  :  it  contained  four  mosques,  six  Greek  churches, 
and  a  bazaar,  with  a  population  of  about  12,000. 

Navarino  stands  upon  an  excellent  harbour,  in  the  south-west 
part  of  the  Morea.  Here  the  Turkish  naval  power  was  completely 
destroyed  by  the  combined  fleets  of  Russia,  France,  and  England, 
on  the  20th  October,  1828.  Modon,  in  the  same  neighbourhood, 
has  a  good  harbour,  and  considerable  trade.  Malvasia,  on  the 
eastern  coast,  stands  on  an  island  connected  with  the  continent 
by  a  bridge.  It  has  a  strong  citadel,  and  its  neighbourhood  pro- 
duces the  wine  called  Malvasia,  or  Malmsey. 

Corinth  stands  on  the  isthmus  uniting  the  Morea  to  the  conti- 
nent. It  stdl  exhibits  the  remains  of  its  ancient  walls  and  the 
citadel,  or  acro-corinthus.  It  formerly  had  a  harbour  on  each 
side  of  the  isthmus,  but  the  only  port  is  now  on  the  Gulf  of  Le- 
panto.  The  houses  are  generally  well  built.  Patras,  at  the 
entrance  of  the  gulf,  has  a  considerable  commerce,  and  formerly 
was  the  residence  of  many  European  consuls.  It  suffered  severely 
during  the  late  contest,  the  country  in  its  neighbourhood  being 
ravaged  by  the  contending  armies.  Missolonghi  is  without  the 
Morea.  It  stands  on  the  Gulf  of  Lepanto,  opposite  Patras.  It 
was  captured  by  the  Greeks  in  1821,  re-captured  after  several 
attempts  by  the  Turks,  in  1825,  and  afterwards  rescued  by  the 
Greeks.  It  is  a  fortified  and  important  place.  Here  Lord  Byron 
died,  in  1824. 

2S*  509 


380  EUROPE. 


TURKISH    EMPIRE. 

Turkey,  or  the  Ottoman  Empire,  comprises  two  great  divi- 
sions, Turkey  in  Europe  and  Turkey  in  Asia.  It  was  once  a 
powerful  and  influential  state,  but  has  within  the  last  hundred 
years  declined  greatly  in  strength  and  importance. 

Though  its  territories  have  been  of  late  much  diminished,  it 
still  forms  an  extensive  region,  stretching  on  the  one  hand  from 
the  Gulf  of  Venice  to  the  Persian  Gulf,  and  on  the  other  from 
the  Mediterranean  to  the  Black  Sea,  containing  an  area  of  577,000 
square  miles.  It  comprehends  some  of  the  finest  and  most  fertile 
regions  of  the  temperate  zone,  yet,  owing  to  the  oppressive  nature 
of  the  government,  many  fertile  districts  have  been  almost 
depopulated,  and  the  whole  of  the  countries,  comprising  this 
empire,  do  not  at  present  contain,  probably,  more  than  the  one- 
third  or  fourth  part  of  the  inhabitants  that  peopled  them  in 
ancient  times. 

The  government  of  Turkey  is  thoroughly  despotic :  its  pre- 
dominating principle  is  the  subjection  of  the  whole  administration, 
civil,  military,  and  religious,  to  the  absolute  disposal  of  one  man. 
The  sovereign  is  called  the  sultan  or  grand  signior,  and,  some- 
times, the  "  Shadow  of  God,"  and  "  Refuge  of  the  World  ;"  he 
is  considered  as  reigning  by  divine  commission  and  uniting  in 
himself  all  the  powers  of  the  state. 

The  vizier,  or  prime  minister,  assisted  by  the  divan,  is  the 
person  upon  whom  devolves  entirely,  the  exclusive  administration 
of  the  government.  The  grand  signior  does  not  even,  like  some 
other  oriental  despots,  make  a  show  of  sitting  in  judgment,  but 
delegates  that  function  also  to  his  subordinate.  The  mufti  is  the 
head,  or  chief,  of  the  ministers  of  law  and  religion.  This  body  is 
called  the  ulema,  or  the  learned ;  they  form  the  depository  of  the 
laws  of  the  empire,  and  the  only  class  who  approach  to  the 
character  of  a  national  council. 

No  great  measure  of  state  can  be  regularly  taken,  or  com- 
mand the  respect  of  the  empire,  without  a  fetwa  from  the  mufti. 
Justice  is  administered  by  the  members  of  the  ulema.  Those  in 
the  large  towns  are  termed  mollahs,  and  in  the  smaller  ones 
cadis. 

The  court  is  called  the  Ottoman  Porte,  or  Sublime  Porte,  and 
the  divan  is  the  great  council  of  the  nation.  It  is  composed  of 
the  grand  vizier,  the  mufti,  the  capidan  pacha,  the  reis  effendi, 
and  other  principal  officers  of  state. 

The  Seraglio  is  the  court,  or  residence,  of  the  sultan  :  it 
embraces  an  assemblage  of  noble  palaces  and  edifices,  in  Con- 


TURKEY.  381 

stantinople,  several  miles  in  circumference.  Here  are  immured, 
500  or  600  females,  the  most  beautiful  that  can  be  found  in 
the  neighbouring  realms  of  Europe  and  Asia.  The  pachas 
and  tributary  princes  vie  with  each  other  in  gifts  of  handsome 
women,  which  form  the  most  effective  mode  of  gaining  imperial 
favour.  Out  of  these  the  sultan  chooses  seven,  who  are  called 
kadunias,  or  favourites,  and  the  rest  are  regarded  merely  as 
slaves. 

Important  changes  have,  within  a  few  years,  taken  place  in  the 
character  and  policy  of  the  Turkish  government.  The  late  sultan, 
Mahmoud,  organized  his  army  and  navy  after  those  of  the  other 
European  nations,  and  endeavoured  to  introduce  their  arts  and 
sciences  into  his  empire.  He  also  presented  in  his  own  person 
innovations  far  beyond  those  of  any  other  Turkish  sovereign; 
dressing  in  the  European  style,  holding  constant  and  familiar  inter- 
course with  the  people,  and  receiving  foreigners  with  the  courte- 
sies and  usages  of  polished  life.  The  influence  of  his  example 
has  not  as  yet,  however,  been  felt  much  beyond  the  walls  of  the 
capital.  At  Constantinople,  a  society  has  been  formed  for  the 
promotion  of  useful  knowledge,  which  publishes  a  monthly  jour- 
nal, edited  by  a  Turk,  who  studied  in  Paris.  The  opera  has  been 
introduced,  and  visiting  between  different  families,  after  the  Euro- 
pean manner,  has  been  commenced  amongst  the  better  classes. 

The  clothing  of  the  Turks  consisted,  until  lately,  of  long  flow- 
ing robes,  which  concealed  the  limbs,  and  was  unfavourable  to 
any  active  exertion  ;  but  these  have  been  supplanted  by  a  short 
tight  jacket  and  pantaloons,  and  the  turban,  or  covering  of  the 
head,  by  a  cap.  Less  change  has  taken  place  in  the  dress  of  the 
women,  and  the  face  is  still  generally  covered  with  a  veil.  A 
plurality  of  wives  is  allowed  by  the  Mahomedan  laws,  and  is 
common  with  the  rich.  The  poorer  and  middle  classes,  however, 
seldom  have  more  than  one  wife.  The  women  of  the  higher 
classes  are  kept  separate  from  male  society,  having  their  own 
part  of  the  house,  from  which  the  men  are  excluded. 

The  Turks  are  Mahomedans  of  the  Sonnite,  or  orthodox  sect, 
and  have  a  great  respect  for  everything  connected  with  their 
religion.  Their  reverence  for  the  Koran  is  extreme,  and  they 
will  stop  and  pick  up  a  piece  of  paper  in  the  street  to  see  if  it  be 
not  a  fragment  of  that  book.  The  Koran  prescribes  the  attitude 
and  time  of  prayer.  The  Turks,  like  all  other  Mussulmans, 
when  they  pray  turn  towards  Mecca,  and  are  much  absorbed  in 
their  devotions,  worshipping  with  great  earnestness  and  fervour. 

They  call  those  who  do  not  believe  their  creed,  dogs  and 
infidels,  and  formerly  esteemed  it  lawful  to  reduce  to  subjection 
all  who  refused  to  be  converted  to  their  faith.     They  are  even 


382  EUROPE. 

more  intolerant  towards  the  Persians,  who,  though  professing  the 
same  religion,  differ  from  them  in  some  respects,  and  are  called 
Sheahs,than  towards  Christians  ;  so  that  it  is  held  to  be  as  meri- 
torious to  kill  one  Sheah  as  twenty  Christians. 

The  Turks  are  grave  and  sedate  in  their  manners,  but 
extremely  ignorant  and  bigoted,  and  so  indolent,  that  nothing- 
short  of  the  strongest  excitement  will  rouse  them  to  activity. 
Smoking  the  pipe,  lounging  for  hours  cross-legged  upon  a 
cushion  or  sofa,  and  bathing,  are  the  chief  occupations  of  the 
better  class.  On  entering  a  house  the  Turks  take  off  their  shoes, 
but  do  not  uncover  the  head.  At  meals  they  use  the  fingers 
only,  without  knife  or  fork.  They  do  not  sleep  on  beds,  but  on 
couches,  or  carpets  on  the  floor. 

They  are  temperate  in  eating  and  drinking :  their  food  is  not 
very  luxurious ;  rice  is  much  used,  and  when  boiled  with  mutton 
or  fowls,  forms  the  favourite  dish  called  pilau  :  pork  and  wine 
are  p  xmibited  by  the  Koran,  yet,  in  the  latter,  some  sultans  and 
great  ien  have  indulged  deeply,  but  in  general  its  use  is  confined 
to  the  'owest  ranks.  Coffee  is  the  principal  beverage,  though 
ardent  spirits  and  opium  are  used  to  some  extent.  The  latter  is 
often  taken  to  excess,  and  those  who  become  addicted  to  its 
use  in  early  life,  generally  fall  victims  to  its  baneful  influence 
before  the  age  of  forty. 

The  Turks,  or,  as  they  call  themselves,  Osmanlis,  are  of  Tartar 
origin,  but  have  occupied  their  present  position  in  Europe  for  the 
last  four  centuries.  They  are  the  ruling  people  in  the  Ottoman 
Empire;  yet,  they  constitute  less  than  one  half  of  the  population. 
The  rest  of  the  inhabitants  consist  of  Greeks,  Albanians,  Arme- 
nians, Jews,  and  Gypsies,  with  Turcomans,  Arabs,  and  Kurds : 
the  three  last  are  inhabitants  of  Turkey  in  Asia.  Europeans 
residing  in  the  empire  are  known  by  the  general  name  of  Franks. 

There  is  no  hereditary  nobility  in  Turkey ;  the  only  distinc- 
tion being  that  of  office,  and  therefore  personal ;  but  the  Emirs, 
or  descendants  of  Mahomet,  have  the  exclusive  right  of  wearing 
the  green  turban,  and  some  other  inconsiderable  privileges. 

The  military  power  of  Turkey,  formerly  the  terror  of  the  most 
considerable  states  in  Europe,  is  now  despised  by  almost  the 
meanest,  and  the  time  has  passed  away  when  the  Janissaries, 
theSphahis,  and  the  Dehlis,  were  thought  to  be  invincible.  The 
martial  spirit  and  discipline  of  these  troops  had  long  been  in  a 
state  of  decay,  and  they  were  for  many  years,  in  consequence 
of  their  turbulent  spirit,  more  formidable  to  their  own  sovereigns 
than  to  their  enemies.  The  corps  of  Janissaries  was  annihilated 
in  1826,  and  the  whole  Turkish  army  modelled  on  that  of  the 
European  system.     It  amounts  nominally  to  between  200,000 


TURKEY.  383 

and  300,000  men,  but  the  troops  are  in  general  badly  armed  and 
undisciplined.  The  navy  consists  of  15  ships  of  the  line,  18 
frigates,  and  four  steam-ships.  This  force,  however,  is  but 
indifferently  organized  and  ill  manned. 

The  various  provinces  of  the  Turkish  dominions  are  governed 
by  chiefs,  called  Pachas,  or  Pashas,  who  are  despotic  in  their 
respective  jurisdictions,  and  often  rebel  against  their  master, 
especially  whenever  they  can  entertain  the  expectation  of  being 
successful.  The  Pachas,  of  the  highest  rank,  are  entitled  to 
have  a  banner  of  three  horse-tails ;  those  of  the  second  rank, 
of  two ;  and  those  of  the  third  rank,  of  one ;  hence  they  are 
called,  Pachas  of  three  tails,  of  two  tails,  or  one  tail,  or  sangiacs. 
The  governors,  or  Pachas,  are  often  the  mere  favourites  of  some 
of  the  great  officers  of  state,  and  are  frequently  men  of  no  ability 
or  experience,  and  destitute  of  integrity.  Their  incapacity  and 
venality  have,  in  consequence,  assisted  in  paralyzing  the  vigour 
and  destroying  the  effective  power  of  the  state. 

Turkey  has  now  no  weight  among  the  nations  of  Europe  :  its 
political  preponderance  has  been  succeeded  by  a  proportional 
decline,  and  it  is  unable  to  defend  its  territories,  not  only  from 
the  invasion  of  foreign  foes,  but  from  those  who  were  lately  its 
own  subjects.  The  dissolution,  or  dismemberment  of  the  empire, 
will  undoubtedly  soon  take  place.  The  unwieldy  and  tottering 
edifice  already  trembles  to  its  foundation,  and  nothing  but  the 
political  emulation  or  mutual  jealousy  of  the  great  European 
powers  will  prevent  its  utter  downfall. 


TURKEY  IN  EUROPE. 

Turkey  in  Europe,  the  smallest  of  the  two  great  divisions  ot 
the  Ottoman  empire,  is  bounded  north  by  Austria,  south  by  tne 
sea  of  Marmora,  the  Archipelago,  and  the  kingdom  of  Greece, 
east  by  the  Black  Sea  and  Russia,  and  west  by  the  Mediterranean 
Sea,  the  Gulf  of  Venice,  and  Austria.  It  extends  from  north- 
east to  south-west  750,  and  from  north-west  to  south-east  700 
miles.     Area,  207,000  square  miles. 

The  mountains  of  European  Turkey  consist  chiefly  of  that 
extensive  range,  stretching  eastward  from  the  Alps,  called  the 
Balkan,  Despoto-Dag,  and  Argentari  mountains,  forming  a  con- 
tinuous chain  from  the  head  of  the  Gulf  of  Venice  to  the  Black 
Sea.  The  Pindus  mountains  are  a  branch  of  the  former,  extend- 
ing southwardly  into  Greece. 

The  Danube  is  the  largest    river  of  this   region,  and  flows 

513 


384  EUROPE. 

through  the  country  for  an  extent  of  600  miles-  The  Maritza  and 
Vardar,  which  empty  into  the  Archipelago,  and  the  Save,  Morava, 
Isker,  Aluta,  Sereth,  and  Pruth,  are  tributaries  of  the  Danube. 

Although  some  provinces  of  this  division  of  the  Ottoman  em- 
pire are  barren  and  rugged,  yet  fertility  is  the  general  character- 
istic of  the  country.  The  soil  of  Romelia,  and  other  parts  in  the 
south,  is  more  fruitful  than  the  richest  plains  of  Italy ;  and,  with 
comparatively  easy  cultivation,  produce  harvests  more  abundant 
than  the  most  fertile  districts  of  France.  There  are  few  coun- 
tries, indeed,  as  to  soil  and  climate,  to  which  Providence  has 
been  so  bountiful,  and  which  have  been  so  cursed  by  the  neglect 
and  indolence  of  man. 

Agriculture  in  European  Turkey  is  depressed  at  once  by  arbi- 
trary exactions  and  the  devastations  consequent  on  frequent  wars  in 
many  of  the  finest  provinces  ;  yet  its  productions  are  various  and 
valuable,  and  comprise  Indian-corn,  wheat,  rice,  cotton,  oil,  fruits, 
&c.  Bees  innumerable  are  reared,  and  yield  a  profusion  of  honey 
and  wax  ;  fine  white  silk  is  produced  in  Bulgaria,  and  around  Adri- 
anople.  The  horses  and  cattle  are  generally  large  and  fine  ;  the 
former  are  from  the  Arabian  stock :  the  steep  sides  and  valleys 
among  the  mountains  are  covered  with  vast  flocks  of  sheep,  the 
wool  of  which,  though  coarse,  affords,  from  its  great  quantity,  a 
large  export. 

There  are  but  few  manufactures  in  this  country.  Turkey 
leather  is  made  in  great  perfection  at  Gallipoli  and  several 
other  towns,  and  silk  in  some  places,  but  to  a  limited  extent. 
The  commerce  is  confined  almost  wholly  to  Constantinople.  The 
exports  are  wool,  buffalo  hides,  skins,  Turkey  leather,  wax,  drugs, 
silk,  cotton,  &c.  The  pride  of  the  Turks,  and  their  oriental 
habits,  has  rendered  them  hitherto  little  dependent  on  the  products 
and  manufactures  of  the  West.  There  are,  however,  imported 
American  and  English  cotton  goods,  New  England  rum,  sugar, 
coffee  from  the  West  Indies,  under  the  disguise  of  Mocha,  together 
with  glass,  porcelain,  and  other  brilliant  fabrics  for  the  harem. 
From  the  Black  Sea  and  the  Caspian,  are  brought  slaves  in  con- 
siderable numbers,  together  with  a  vast  quantity  of  salt  fish  and 
caviare,  or  the  prepared  roes  of  sturgeon. 

The  grand  divisions  of  Turkey  in  Europe,  are  Romelia  in  the 
south,  Albania  and  Bosnia  in  the  west,  Servia  and  Bulgaria  in 
the  centre,  and  Wallachia  and  Moldavia  in  the  north,  beyond  the 
Danube.  The  population  of  the  whole  is  about  nine  millions :  of 
this  amount,  Wallachia  contains  1,000,000,  Moldavia  550,000, 
and  Servia  450,000  :  total  of  the  three  last  provinces  two  millions, 
leaving  under  the  actual  sovereignty  of  the  sultan  seven  millions 
of  subjects. 


TURKEY. 


Pistacia  Terebinthus. 


Pistacia  Lentiscus. 


Scio,  or  Venice  Turpentine,  and  Mastic,  are  the  chief  products  of  the  Island  of  Scio.  The 
first  is  obtained  from  the  Pistacia  Terebinthus,  and  the  other  from  the  Pistacia  Lentiscus. 
Mastic  is  extensively  UBed  in  Turkey  for  various  purposes.  The  women  chew  it  for  the  purpose 
of  whitening  the  teeth  ;  it  also  strengthens  the  gums,  and  imparts  an  agreeable  fragrance  to  the 
breath. 


Astragalus  Creticus.  Astragalus  Tragacantha. 

The  Astragalus  Creticus  and  Astragalus  Tragacantha  grow  in  Candia,  and  the  neighbourins 
islands     They  both  yield  gum  tra^acanth,  an  article  now  used  to  a  considerable  extent. 

515 


EUROPE. 


Juniperus  Lycia.  Cupressus  Sempervirens,  or  Cypres9  Tree. 

The  Juniperus  Lycia  is  one  of  the  trees  that  yield  the  gum  olibanum  of  frankincense.  The 
Greek  fishermen  make  fires  of  the  wood  in  the  stern  of  their  boats  at  night,  for  the  purpose  of 
attracting  the  fish  by  its  light,  which  they  believe  it  does  more  effectually  than  any  other. 

The  Cypress  is  an  evergreen  tree  of  a  gloomy  sombre  appearance,  which  abounds  in  Turkey, 
Greece,  &c.  The  wood  is  highly  prized  for  its  durability.  Among  the  ancients,  it  furnished 
the  coffins  of  eminent  warriors ;  and  many  of  the  Egyptian  mummies  were  enclosed  in  cases 
made  of  it,  which  remain  undecayed  to  the  present  time.  The  branches  of  the  cypress  were 
consecrated  to  the  service  of  the  dead  ;  and  its  perpetual  verdure  served  the  poets  as  the 
emblem  of  eternity. 


Wallachian  Peasantry. 


516 


TURKEY.  385 

Wallachia,  Moldavia,  and  Servia,  hardly  form,  at  present, 
a  part  of  the  Turkish  empire,  being  governed  by  their  own 
princes,  and  are  in  all  respects  independent,  except  that  they  pay 
a  fixed  tribute  to  the  Porte.  They  have  their  own  laws,  religion, 
and  a  separate  administration.  The  people  are  much  oppressed 
by  their  rulers,  and  are  very  ignorant  and  superstitious  ;  they  are 
mostly  of  the  Greek  church  :  there  are,  however,  many  Gypsies, 
Jews,  and  Greeks,  in  these  countries. 

Constantinople,  the  capital  of  Turkey,  occupies  a  most  striking 
and  commanding  site.  Its  situation  is  as  beautiful  and  com- 
modious, as  the  port  is  spacious  and  admirable.  The  city  itself, 
rising  on  seven  hills,  along  the  shore  of  the  Bosphorus,  embo- 
somed in  groves,  from  amid  which  numerous  gilded  domes  ascend 
to  a  lofty  height,  presents  a  most  magnificent  spectacle.  But 
the  moment  the  interior  is  entered,  all  the  magic  of  the  scene 
disappears.  The  streets  are  narrow,  ill-paved,  and  crowded; 
the  houses  low  and  gloomy ;  and  the  hills,  which  appeared 
majestic  in  the  view,  causing  steep  ascents  and  descents,  prove 
excessively  inconvenient.  But  the  most  fatal  circumstance  in 
the  structure  of  Constantinople  is,  that  the  houses  of  rich  and 
poor  are  alike  entirely  composed  of  wood,  while  chimneys  are 
not  generally  used,  and  their  place  supplied  by  vessels  of  brass 
or  earth  put  under  the  feet.  These  circumstances,  joined  to  the 
usual  improvidence  of  the  Mahomedans,  cause  most  tremendous 
conflagrations. 

It  is  reckoned  that  Constantinople  rises  entire  from  its  ashes 
in  the  course  of  every  fifteen  years ;  but  no  advantage  is  ever 
taken  of  the  circumstance  to  improve  its  aspect.  The  fallen 
streets  are  immediately  reconstructed  with  all  their  imperfections, 
and  the  houses  rebuilt  of  the  same  fragile  materials.  This  city 
contains,  however,  some  structures  that  are  very  magnificent. 
Among  them  stands  foremost  the  mosque  of  St.  Sophia,  account- 
ed the  finest  in  the  world,  first  built  as  a  church  by  Justinian, 
and  converted  by  the  conquering  Turks  to  its  present  use.  The 
mosques  of  Sultan  Achmet  and  of  Suleyman  are  equally  vast 
and  splendid,  but  not  marked  by  the  same  classic  taste.  The 
numerous  minarets  are  in  general  airy  and  elegant,  and  add 
greatly  to  the  beauty  of  the  city. 

Constantinople  is  undergoing  changes  as  remarkable  as  they 
were  unexpected.  Christian  manners  and  habits  are  rapidly 
taking  the  place  of  the  ancient  national  sentiments  and  usages  ; 
the  people,  but  recently  indolent  and  incurious,  now  read  with 
avidity  the  daily  newspapers  printed  in  the  capital,  and  are  rapidly 
becoming  enlightened  by  the  realities  of  passing  events.  Should 
recent  innovations  proceed  with  like  rapidity  hereafter,  all  the  dis- 

33  2T  "7 


386  EUROPE. 

tinctive  peculiarities  of  a  Turkish  city  will  soon  merge  in  the 
uniformity  of  European  rule  and  order. 

Adrianople  is  a  large  city,  five  miles  in  circumference,  and 
containing  about  100,000  inhabitants.  There  are  several  ancient 
palaces,  and  a  splendid  mosque,  but  the  streets  are  narrow  and 
crooked,  the  houses  ill-built  of  brick  and  mud.  The  ancient 
strength  of  its  fortifications  has  gone  into  decay. 

Gallipoli,  on  the  Strait  of  the  Dardanelles,  is  also  a  large  and 
commodious  place,  with  17,000  inhabitants. 

Sophia  is  the  seat  of  a  great  inland  trade  between  Salon ica 
a-nd  the  interior  countries  of  the  empire :  its  inhabitants  amount 
to  40,000. 

A  chain  of  fortresses  on  the  Danube,  large  and  strongly  for- 
tified, formed  long  the  main  bulwarks  of  the  Turkish  empire. 
The  chief  are,  Widin,Giurgevo,  Nicopoli,  Rustschuk,  and  Silistria. 
They  are  all  of  nearly  similar  character,  extensive  and  populous, 
uniting  with  their  importance  as  military  stations,  that  derived 
from  an  extensive  trade  along  the  Danube.  Shumla  forms 
rather  a  chain  of  rudely  entrenched  positions  than  a  regular 
fortress  ;  yet  such  is  the  obstinacy  with  which  the  Turks  defend 
such  situations,  that  this  city  has  repeatedly  baffled  the  utmost 
efforts  of  the  Russian  army.  Population,  30,000.  Varna,  a  port 
en  the  Black  Sea,  is  also  a  leading  military  station,  and  was  the 
theatre  of  a  signal  victory  gained  by  Amurath  the  Great  over  the 
Hungarian  troops. 

The  capital  of  Servia  is  Belgrade,  a  fortress  of  extraordinary 
strength,  long  considered  the  key  of  Hungary,  and  disputed  with 
the  utmost  obstinacy  between  the  Austrians  and  the  Turks.  It 
is  now  equally  distinguished  as  a  seat  of  inland  commerce,  being 
the  great  entrepot  between  Turkey  and  Germany.  It  contains 
30,000  inhabitants. 

Serajevo,  capital  of  Bosnia,  is  still  larger,  containing  a  popu- 
lation of  60,000.  It  traffics  in  arms  and  jewelry,  and  receives 
numerous  caravans  from  Constantinople.  Jassy,  the  capital  of 
Moldavia,  is  situated  in  the  interior  of  the  country,  amid  a  marshy 
district,  which  renders  it  unhealthy.  Population,  Ji8,000.  Bu- 
charest, the  capital  of  Wallachia,  is  a  large  city,  containing  about 
80,000  souls.  It  is  built  upon  a  dismal  swamp ;  to  render  the 
streets  passable  over  which,  they  are  covered  with  boards. 
Here  European  and  Oriental  dress  and  manners  unite  in  nearly 
equal  proportions.  Joanina  the  capital  of  Albania,  has  a  very 
picturesque  situation  on  a  lake,  surrounded  by  lofty  mountains, 
and  is  supposed  to  contain  a  population  of  35,000.  The  houses 
are  irregularly  built,  intermingled  with  gardens  and  trees.  A 
great  proportion  of  the  inhabitants  is  Greek. 


TURKEY. 


Sullan. 


Grand  Vizier. 


Mufti. 


Reis  Eftendi. 


Capitan  Pacha. 


Kislar  Aga. 


Janissary  Aga. 


Janissary. 


The  Sultan  is  the  sovereign  of  the  Turkish  Empire,  but  the  Grand  Vizier  manages  the  affairs 
of  the  State.  The  Mufti  is  a  kind  of  Chief  Justice,  or  head  of  the  law.  The  Reis  Effendi 
performs  the  functions  of  Chancellor,  and  Secretary  of  foreign  and  domestic  affairs.  The  Capi- 
tan Pacha  is  commander  of  the  fleet.  The  Kislar  Aga,  or  chief  of  the  eunuchs  of  the  Seraglio, 
:s  usually  a  negro,  and  considered  a  person  of  distinction. 

The  Janissaries  were  the  regular  soldiers  of  Turkey,  and  their  Aga,  or  General,  an  officer 
of  high  rank.  These  troops  existed  for  more  than  400  years.  They  were  long  hated  for  their 
turDu.ence,  and  were  finally  disbanded  in  the  year  1826,  at  which  time  many  thousands  of  them 

were  put  to  death. 

519 


4ti£ 


EUROPE. 


View  of  Constantinople. 


Mosques  of  the  Sultans  Achmet  and  Suleyman. 

The  Mosques  or  the  Sultans,  Achmet  and  Suleyman,  are  among  the  finest  structures  of  the 
kind  in  the  Turkish  Empire.  The  first  was  built  in  1610,  by  Achmet  I. ;  and  so  much  interested 
was  the  Sultan  in  its  progress,  that,  to  stimulate  the  workmen,  he  laboured  for  an  hour  every 
Friday  with  his  own  hands.    The  sacred  banner  of  the  Prophet  is  deposited  here. 

The  Mosque  of  the  Sultan  Suleyman  was  erected  in  1556,  and  constructed  for  the  most  part 
of  materials  taken  from  the  church  of  St.  Euphcmia,  at  Chalcedon,  or  Kadir-Keni,  opposile 
Constantinople.    This  edifice  is  216  feet  by  210. 


Castle  of  the  Seven  Towers. 
The  Castle  of  the  Seven  Towers  was  built  partly  by  the  Greeks  and  partly  by  the  Turks. 
Mahomed  11.,  in  1458,  made  it  a  place  of  deposit  for  his  treasure,  and  also  a  state  prison,  and 
il  was  used  long  afterwards  for  the  latter  purpose.  The  last  person  of  rank  confined  here  was 
l he  Russian  ambassador,  in  1794.  Three  of  the  seven  towers  were  thrown  down  by  the  earth- 
quake of  !"£(>,  and  have  never  been  restored. 

520 


ASIA.  387 


ASIA. 

Asia  is  the  largest  and  most  populous  division  of  the  eastern 
continent,  being  more  extensive  in  area,  and  containing  a  greater 
number  of  inhabitants,  than  Europe  and  Africa  united.  This  part 
of  the  earth  is  supposed  to  have  been  the  scene  of  the  creation  of 
man;  and,  after  the  deluge,  it  became  a  second  time  the  nursery 
of  the  world. 

In  Asia  the  chief  part  of  the  important  and  interesting  events, 
recorded  in  the  sacred  Scriptures,  took  place.  Here  the  patriarchs 
performed  their  pilgrimages,  the  prophets  proclaimed  the  will  of 
Heaven  to  man,  and  the  Redeemer  appeared,  died,  and  rose  again 
from  the  dead.  Here,  also,  civilization,  learning,  and  the  arts,  had 
their  commencement ;  the  first  temples  were  erected,  and  the  wor- 
ship of  the  Most  High  was  celebrated,  while  Europe,  and  other 
parts  of  the  earth,  were  unknown  and  unexplored. 

The  vast  expanse  of  Asia,  stretching  through  almost  eighty  de- 
grees of  latitude,  presents  every  variety  of  surface,  soil,  and  climate. 
It  is  encompassed  by  the  sea  on  nearly  every  side,  being  washed 
on  the  north  by  the  Arctic,  on  the  east  by  the  Pacific,  and  on  the 
south  by  the  Indian  Ocean,  and  is  bounded  on  the  west  by  the 
Red,  the  Mediterranean,  and  the  Black  seas. 

This  great  region  is  estimated  at  6000  miles  in  extent,  from 
east  to  west,  and  about  5000  from  north  to  south ;  comprising  an 
area  of  16,000,000  square  miles,  or  about  one-third  part  of  the 
land  surface  of  the  globe. 

Every  thing  in  Asia  is  on  a  vast  scale;  its  mountains,  its  rivers, 
its  plains,  and  its  deserts.  The  grandest  feature,  and  one  which 
makes  a  complete  section  of  this  great  region,  is  an  extensive 
chain  of  mountains,  which,  under  various  names,  but  with  very 
little  interruption,  crosses  the  continent  from  the  Mediterranean 
Sea  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  an  extent  of  5800  miles.  The  Taurus, 
Elborz,  and  the  Himmaleh  mountains  are  the  best  known  portions 
of  this  mighty  range.  On  one  side  it  has  Southern  Asia,  the 
finest  and  most  extensive  plain  in  the  world,  covered  with  the  rich- 
est tropical  products,  watered  by  magnificent  rivers,  and  filled  with 
populous  nations  and  great  empires.  On  the  other  side,  it  serves 
as  a  bulwark  to  the  wide  table-land  of  Thibet,  which,  though  under 
the  latitude  of  the  south  of  Europe,  has  many  of  the  characteristics 
of  a  northern  region. 

To  the  northward  are  the  three  almost  parallel  chains,  of  the 
Kuen-lun,  the  Thian-chan,  and  the  Altay  mountains ;  these,  though 
imperfectly  explored,  are  known  to  be  of  great  elevation,  varying 

2T*  5*1 


388  ASIA. 

from  12,000  to  20,000  feet  in  height,  and  ranging  thousands  of 
miles  in  extent.  The  Ural  mountains,  which  separate  European 
from  Asiatic  Russia,  and  the  Ghauts  of  Hindoostan,  are  the  prin- 
cipal of  the  secondary  chains. 

Central  Asia  comprises  several  large  lakes  or  inland  seas,  salt 
like  the  ocean,  receiving  considerable  rivers  and  having  no  outlet. 
These  are  the  Caspian,  the  Aral,  the  Balcash,  and  others  of  lesser 
magnitude. 

No  part  of  the  eastern  continent  has  so  many  rivers  of  the  first 
order,  some  of  which  are  inferior  in  extent  only  to  the  vast  water- 
courses of  the  New  World.  The  principal  rivers  of  the  northern 
part  of  Asia,  are  the  Obe,  the  Irtysh,  the  Yenesei,  and  the  Lena: 
these  gloomy  streams,  flowing  into  the  Arctic  Ocean,  and  bound 
by  almost  perpetual  frost,  afford  little  aid  either  to  agriculture  or 
the  intercourse  of  nations. 

The  Euphrates,  the  Indus,  the  Ganges,  and  the  Irrawaddy, 
empty  into  the  Indian  Ocean,  and  the  Meinam  and  Cambodia  into 
the  Pacific.  They  are  the  chief  rivers  of  Southern  Asia,  and  flow 
through  and  fertilize  some  of  the  most  populous  and  productive 
countries  in  the  world. 

The  Yang-tse  Kiang,  and  the  Hoang  Ho,  rising  in  the  high 
mountainous  regions  of  Central  Asia,  take  their  course  eastvvardly 
across  the  Empire  of  China,  to  whose  prosperity  they  mainly  con- 
tribute, and  fall  into  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  Amoor  runs  in  the 
same  direction  through  Northern  Tartary,  but  without  any  advan- 
tage to  that  barren  district.  Lastly,  the  Sihon,  the  Amoo,  the 
Ural,  and  others  of  lesser  magnitude,  flow  along  the  great  plains 
of  Western  Tartary,  but,  unable  to  reach  the  ocean,  expand  into 
the  Aral,  the  Caspian,  and  other  inland  seas. 

Asia  is  distinguished  for  the  great  variety  of  its  rich  vegetable 
productions.  In  the  warmer  regions,  rice,  indigo,  Indian-corn, 
dhourra,  and  millet,  are  the  chief  agricultural  staples.  In  the 
more  temperate  regions,  wheat  and  other  grains  are  produced,  and 
barley  and  oats  are  raised  as  far  north  as  sixty  degrees  of  latitude, 
and,  also,  on  the  elevated  plains  of  the  more  southern  districts. 

The  tea  shrub  is  indigenous  to  China,  Japan,  and  Assam,  and 
the  coffee  to  Arabia.  The  sugar-cane  is  produced  in  India,  and 
the  poppy  plant  furnishes  great  quantities  of  opium  for  exportation. 
The  cotton  shrub,  and  mulberry  tree,  grow  throughout  the  south- 
ern regions.  Asia,  likewise,  furnishes  other  parts  of  the  earth 
with  cinnamon,  cloves,  mace,  nutmegs,  pepper,  camphor,  the  fra- 
grant balm  of  Mecca,  and  also  many  various  kinds  of  medicinal 
plants  and  dye-stuffs. 

Asia  is  rich  in  mineral  productions,  and  yields  all  the  useful  and 
precious  metals,  but  the  wealth  of  the  Asiatic  mines  has  not  been 


ASIA. 


Tea  Plant. 


Coffee  Plant  and  Berries. 


Aloe  Soccotrina. 


The  Tea  Plant  grows  principally  in  China  and  Japan,  and  attains  the  height  of  five  or  six 
feet.  When  it  is  three  years  old,  the  leaves  are  plucked  off,  placed  iri  an  iron  pan,  and  heate:| 
for  some  time  over  a  fire  ;  they  are  then  poured  out,  and  as  they  cool,  each  leaf  is  rolled  in  the 
palm  of  the  hand  into  a  kind  of  ball ;  when  the  heating  and  rolling  have  been  repeated  two  or 
three  times,  the  procesB  is  complete. 

The  Coffee  Plant  is  cultivated  in  various  parts  of  the  earth,  and  grows  eighteen  or  twenty 
feet  high.  The  fruit  is  of  a  dark-red  colour,  the  size  of  a  cherry,  and  contains  each  two  seeds; 
these,  when  freed  from  their  husk,  and  dried  in  the  sun,  constitute  the  coffee  of  commerce. 

The  Aloe  Soccotrina,  or  Socotrine  Aloe,  grows  in  Arabia,  Socotra,  &c.  Its  inspissated  juice 
forms  the  medicinal  gum  known  as  aloes.  There  are  many  species  of  the  aloe  plant  found  in 
various  parts  of  the  earth. 


Sorgho,  or  Durra  Plant.  Doum  Tree,  and  Fruit. 

The  grain  callod  Sorgho,  Dhourra,  or  Durra,  is  a  coarse  kind  of  millet,  that  is  cultivated  in 
warm  sandy  regions.  It  yields  in  some  places  three  crops  a  year,  and  forms  the  chief  food  of 
many  of  the  inhabitants  of  Asia  and  Africa. 

The  Doum  Tree  grows  on  the  edge  of  the  various  deserts  in  Arabia,  Egypt,  &c.  Its  trunk 
furnishes  the  chief  part  of  the  timber  used  in  those  countries ;  and  from  its  leaves  carpets, 
bags,  and  baskets,  are  made.  The  fruit  in  taste  resembles  gingerbread,  but  is  not  of  much  value, 
being  full  of  fibres.  When  ripe,  the  kernel  becomes  very  hard,  and  fine  beads  for  rosaries  are 
made  of  it,  as  it  takes  a  beautiful  polish. 

523 


ASIA. 


Cinnamon  Tree.  Indigo  Plant. 

Cinnamon  is  the  inner  bark  of  a  tree  that  grows  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  high,  in  Ceylon 
and  the  adjacent  countries.  When  five  or  six  years  old,  and  upwards,  branches  of  an  inch 
thick  are  cut  from  the  tree:  the  bark  is  then  peeled  off,  the  outer  part  scraped  away,  and  the 
residue,  being  dried  in  the  sun,  is  fit  for  use. 

Indigo  is  manufactured  from  a  plant  that  is  cultivated  in  various  parts  of  the  earth.  In  India, 
when  two  or  three  months  old,  the  branches  are  cut  off,  and  steeped  in  vats,  until  the  colouring 
matter  of  the  leaves  is  wholly  extracted  by  the  water  ;  it  is  then  strained  through  hair  or  mat- 
bags  ;  and  the  fecula,  being  carefully  dried,  becomes  indigo. 


Pepper  Plant.  Acacia  Arabica,  or  Gum  Arabic  Tree. 

Pepper  is  the  fruit  of  a  low  creeping  vine,  that  is  cultivated  nearly  in  the  same  manner  that 
peas  are  with  us.  When  ripe,  the  berries  are  gathered,  and  dried  in  the  sun,  which  is  all  the 
preparation  necessary.  This  plant  produces  two  crops  annually.  It  grows  on  the  Malabar 
coast,  in  the  islands  of  Sumatra,  Java,  and  Mauritius,  as  well  as  in  Cayenne. 

The  Gum  Arabic  Tree  grows  in  Arabia,  and  also  in  Africa,  on  the  southern  edge  of  the 
Great  Desert.  The  gum  exudes  from  the  branches,  in  the  same  way  that  we  see  it  in  the 
peach  and  some  other  trees.    The  African  gum  is  usually  called  Gum  Senegal. 


Betula  Nana. 


Epilubium  Latifulium. 


Rhododendron  kamtchaticum. 
524 


ASIA. 


Butea  Frondosa. 


Shorea  Robusta. 


Amyris  Gileadensia. 


Andromeda  Polifolia. 


Stillingia  Sebifera,  or  Wax  Plant. 


The  Amyris  Gileadensia  grows  in  Syria  and  Abyssinia.  It  yields  by  incision  the  medicinal 
gum  called  the  Balm  of  Gilead,  which  is  known  to  have  been  an  article  of  commerco  so  far 
back  as  the  days  of  Joseph.  It  has  been  for  ages  highly  extolled,  and  is  still  regarded  as  a 
most  valuable  medicine  and  cosmetic  by  the  Turks,  and  other  eastern  nations.  With  us,  how- 
ever, it  is  not  in  much  repute,  and  its  virtues  are  believed  to  have  been  greatly  overrated. 

The  Wax  Plant  of  China  yields  a  kind  of  wax  that  is  made  into  candles  by  the  natives. 

525 


ASIA. 


Bengal  Tiger. 


Long-armed  Ape. 


Orang  Outang  of  Malacca,  Borneo,  &c.  Argali,  Mountain  or  Wild  Sheep. 

The  Orang  Outang  is  an  animal  of  the  ape  species,  which  approaches  more  closely  than  any 
other  the  human  form.  The  stature  of  the  adult  is  uncertain  ;  those  brought  to  Europe  and 
America  have  been  from  three  to  four  and  a  half  feet  in  height.  They  are  grave  and  gentle  in 
disposition,  and  soon  become  attached  to  those  who  treat  them  kindly. 

The  fables  formerly  told  of  this  animal  walking  upright,  waging  war  with  clubs,  and  each 
individual  equalling  several  men  in  strength,  are  now  exploded.  It  appears  to  have  been  formed 
for  climbing  trees,  and  living  among  the  branches  ;  and  can  only  by  long  and  painful  discipline 
be  made  to  totter  along  in  an  upright  position  for  a  short  distance,  and  even  then  not  without 
the  help  of  a  stick. 

536 


ASIA.  389 

fully  explored.  Gold  and  silver  are  found  in  Siberia,  Thibet, 
China,  Japan,  and  India ;  quicksilver  in  Japan,  China,  and  Cey- 
lon ;  tin  in  China;  and  iron,  lead,  copper,  coal,  and  salt,  abound  in 
various  Asiatic  countries.  Hindoostan  produces  the  finest  dia- 
monds in  the  world  ;  they  are  found,  also,  to  some  extent  in  Siberia, 
and  the  ruby,  amethyst,  turquois,  &c,  are  met  with  in  various 
quarters. 

Asia  has  always  been  remarkable  for  the  number  and  variety 
of  its  animals  :  the  larger  species  are  more  numerous  than  in  other 
quarters  of  the  earth,  and  nearly  all  the  domestic  kinds  known 
amongst  civilized  nations,  had  their  origin  in  this  region. 

The  elephant,  though  never  bred  in  a  tame  stace,  may  be  placed 
at  the  head  of  its  domestic  animals.  From  time  immemorial  this 
quadruped  has  been  used  in  war  by  the  people  of  India,  and  for 
the  purposes  of  travelling,  bearing  heavy  burdens,  &c.  Its  ser- 
vices appear  to  be  universal,  and  it  is  as  essential  to  the  Indian 
sportsman,  as  a  good  horse  to  an  English  fox-hunter.  Domestica- 
tion has  so  far  subdued  the  instinct  of  nature,  that  tame  elephants 
are  employed  to  decoy  and  catch  their  wild  brethren.  Immense 
troops  of  the  latter  still  roam  over  the  northern  parts  of  India,  in 
Ceylon,  Chin-India,  particularly  in  Laos,  and,  probably,  in  all  the 
larger  of  the  neighbouring  islands. 

White  elephants  are  occasionally  met  with.  They  are,  how- 
ever, so  rare,  that  the  king  of  Siam  considered  the  possession  of 
six  individuals,  at  one  time,  a  circumstance  peculiarly  auspicious 
to  his  reign.  They  are  believed  to  contain  the  spirit  of  some  de- 
parted monarch,  and,  as  such,  have  the  rank  and  title  of  a  king, 
and  have,  also,  numerous  attendants,  who  wait  on  and  feed  them 
with  the  greatest  care  and  solicitude.  When  taken  abroad,  the 
people,  both  in  Siam  and  Birmah,  are  obliged  to  prostrate  them- 
selves, as  before  their  actual  sovereign. 

The  common  domestic  animals  of  Asia,  present  greater  varieties 
of  species  than  those  of  any  other  region ;  and  though  no  longer 
found,  except  in  a  few  instances,  in  a  state  of  nature,  are  still  pro- 
verbial for  their  symmetry  and  vigour.  In  Arabia,  particularly, 
the  horse  is,  of  all  other  animals,  the  object  of  most  especial  care 
and  value.  In  no  other  part  of  the  world  does  he  display  so 
much  gentleness,  intelligence,  and  spirit.  The  nomadic  and  pas- 
toral nations  which  have,  from  time  immemorial,  occupied  the 
plains  of  Asia,  may  be  said  to  live  almost  on  horseback  ;  and,  in- 
deed, it  would  be  almost  impossible  for  them  to  carry  on  their 
predatory  expeditions,  or  to  traverse  the  vast  steppes  of  the  central 
districts,  without  the  aid  of  this  noble  animal.  His  flesh,  also, 
supplies  them  with  their  favourite  food,  and  the  milk  of  the  mare 
is  the  greatest  dainty  of  a  Tartar  feast. 

33  *  527 


390  ASIA. 

The  ass  of  Persia,  Syria,  and  the  Levant,  is  greatly  superior  to 
the  same  animal  in  Europe;  it  approaches  nearer  to  the  large  size 
of  the  horse,  and  partakes  much  of  his  beautiful  symmetry  of  form, 
noble  carriage,  and  unrivalled  speed. 

The  camel  and  dromedary  are,  no  doubt,  of  Asiatic  origin.  The 
former,  distinguished  by  two  humps,  is  found  chiefly,  if  not  solely, 
among  the  wandering  Tartars,  from  the  confines  of  Siberia  to  the 
northern  ridges  of  the  Himmaleh  mountains  ;  whilst  the  dromedary 
spreads  not  only  over  Arabia,  Syria,  Mesopotamia,  and  Persia, 
but  extends  into  India,  and  probably  even  into  China,  and  is  also 
widely  spread  over  all  the  northern  and  sandy  parts  of  Africa. 

Of  the  ox  kind,  four  distinct  varieties  have  been,  from  time  im- 
memorial, domesticated  in  different  parts  of  Asia.  The  common 
Indian  ox  is  the  usual  beast  of  draught  and  burden  in  Hindoostan, 
and,  from  its  great  speed,  is  frequently  used  for  the  saddle,  even 
by  Europeans.  The  yak  has  been  long  domesticated  in  the  cen- 
tral parts  of  the  continent,  and  especially  among  the  Tartars. 
The  buffalo,  common  in  India  and  China,  supplies  the  inhabitants 
with  milk  and  butter.  The  fourth  species,  the  gayal,  frequent 
among  the  Burmese  and  in  Thibet,  is  also  found  wild  in  many 
parts,  and  is,  in  that  state,  a  formidable  animal,  being  as  much 
dreaded  by  the  native  hunters  as  the  tiger. 

The  varieties  of  sheep  and  goats  are  numerous  in  Asia.  The 
broad-tailed  sheep  is  widely  dispersed.  The  tail  is  the  best  part  of 
the  animal,  for  the  flesh  is  dry  and  insipid ;  and,  instead  of  wool, 
the  body  is  covered  with  a  short  coarse  hair.  From  the  fleece  of 
the  shawl-goat  of  Cashmere,  the  Indians  manufacture  those  rich 
and  valuable  shawls  which  are  so  highly  esteemed  in  Europe,  as 
well  as  throughout  the  East.  The  Angora  goat  is  an  inferior 
variety  of  the  shawl-goat,  whose  long  wool  is  of  a  tolerably  fine 
texture,  but.  not  adapted  to  the  same  purposes  as  the  richer  wool 
of  the  Cashmerian  animal. 

Among  the  carnivorous  animals,  are  three  or  four  species  of 
bears.  These  are  found  chiefly  in  the  mountains  and  plains  of 
India.  Besides  which,  the  common  brown  bear  of  Europe,  and 
the  white  or  polar  bear,  abound  in  Siberia,  Kamschatka,  and  the 
shores  of  the  Frozen  Ocean. 

The  tiger,  the  most  savage  and  formidable  of  all  the  rapacious 
animals,  exists  only  in  southern  Asia,  and  the  neighbouring  isles. 
He  is  fearless  of  man,  ferocious  and  blood-thirsty,  and  will  kill 
and  drag  off  a  horse  or  a  buffalo  with  great  ease.  Hunting  the 
tiger,  by  sportsmen  mounted  on  elephants,  is  a  favourite  amuse- 
ment ;  it  is,  however,  dangerous,  and  frequently  attended  with  loss 
of  life.  The  leopard  and  panther  are  common  in  the  forests  of 
India.     The  lion  also  has  been  lately  found  in  the  province  of 


ASIA. 


Arabian  Horse. 


Fat-tailed  Sheep,  of  Thibet. 


Gazelle,  of  Persia,  Turkey,  and  Tartary. 


Musk  Deer,  of  Thibet 


Angora  Sheep,  of  Turkey. 


Brown  Eat,  of  Persia. 


Four-horned  Antelope. 


Flying  Dragon. 


2U 


529 


ASIA. 


Gigantic  Crane,  of  India.  Peafowl. 

The  Gigantic  Crane  is  sufficiently  high  to  appear,  when  walking,  something  like  a  naked 
Indian.  These  birds  are  exceedingly  voracious,  and  devour  all  kinds  of  reptiles,  garbage,  &.C. 
They  are  in  consequence  very  useful,  and  are  held  in  great  estimation  by  the  natives. 


Impeyan  Pheasant. 


Long-legged  Plover. 


The  Impeyan  Pheasant  is  called  by  the  Hindoos  the  Bird  of  Gold.  Its  whole  plumage  i<i 
metallic  in  appearance,  reflecting  every  colour  and  lustre  that  can  be  conceived.  This  bird  u 
found  among  the  Himinaleh  mountains,  but  is  very  rare. 


Golden  or  Painted  Pheasant,  of  China. 


530 


ASIA.  391 

Gujerat  in  Hindoostan,  but,  unlike  the  African  variety,  he  is  with- 
out a  mane,  and  appears  to  be  altogether  a  much  less  formidable 
animal.  The  striped  hyena  is  common  in  all  the  warmer  parts 
of  the  continent,  and  various  species  of  wild  dogs  and  foxes  are 
everywhere  abundant. 

Two  different  species  of  rhinoceros  are  known  to  inhabit  the 
continent  of  India,  and  the  great  islands  contiguous  to  the  Malayan 
peninsula.  The  continental,  or  one-horned  species,  is  a  common 
inhabitant  of  the  swampy  banks  of  all  the  great  rivers.  Thicker 
and  more  unwieldy,  for  his  size,  than  the  elephant,  he  exhibits,  in 
confinement,  much  of  the  singular  sagacity  observed  in  that  gigan- 
tic animal.  It  is  in  a  wild  state  only  that  the  bodily  strength  of 
this  creature  can  be  fully  estimated,  and  this  is  frequently  displayed 
in  a  surprising  degree.  Its  power  is  sufficient  to  overcome  the 
active  ferocity  of  the  lion,  and  the  ponderous  strength  of  the  ele- 
phant, but  this  is  only  exerted  in  self-defence.  The  rhinoceros 
derives  all  his  food  from  the  vegetable  kingdom,  and  is  quiet  and 
peaceable  when  left  to  himself. 

The  varieties  of  deer  are  numerous,  while  the  antelopes  are 
but  scanty.  Of  the  former,  one  species,  the  Thibet  musk,  is  pecu- 
liar. It  is  about  the  size  of  a  small  goat.  Both  sexes  are  without 
horns ;  but  the  musk  is  produced  by  the  male  only.  This  perfume 
has  always  been  held  in  high  esteem  throughout  the  East,  and 
when  genuine  and  pure,  is  said  to  be  sometimes  sold  for  its  weight 
in  gold.  There  are  also  several  kinds  of  gazelles,  one  species  of 
which  furnishes  the  poet  with  a  favourite  metaphor;  gazelle-eyed 
being  one  of  the  highest  complimentary  epithets  that  can  be  be- 
stowed upon  a  lady. 

The  birds  of  Asia  are  of  great  variety,  and  many  of  them  of 
splendid  plumage.  The  peacock  is  the  glory  of  Indian  ornithology, 
and  is,  without  doubt,  the  most  superb  bird  in  creation.  It  occurs 
in  the  greatest  profusion  over  the  extensive  plains  of  India,  where 
it  grows  to  a  much  larger  size  than  with  us,  and  where  domesti- 
cated individuals  occur  sometimes  of  a  pure  white  colour.  Our 
well-known  common  fowls  were  brought  originally  from  India, 
and  are  still  found  in  its  jungles  and  forests ;  while  in  the  adjacent 
islands  of  Malaysia,  other  varieties  exist,  more  beautiful  than  those 
domesticated  with  us.  The  pheasants  are  of  numerous  species. 
The  cassowary  is  a  native  of  Chin-India,  and  the  large  islands  of 
Malaysia.  Like  the  ostrich,  it  does  not  fly,  but  uses  its  wings  as 
an  assistance  in  running.  Its  speed  is  great,  and  it  nearly  equals 
that  bird  in  size,  and  is  distinguished  by  the  same  voracious  ap- 
petite. 

Parroquets  and  parrots  are  numerous.  Many  of  the  latter  are 
eminently  beautiful,  and  one,  the  vernal  parrot,  is  not  larger  than 


392  ASIA. 

a  sparrow.  The  gigantic  crane,  in  its  uncommon  voracity,  and 
in  the  nature  of  its  food,  is  completely  a  bird  of  prey.  It  is  suffi- 
ciently high,  when  walking,  to  appear  like  a  native  Indian.  There 
is  a  multitude  of  other  birds  in  Asia,  many  of  which  are  remark- 
able for  their  rich  plumage  or  their  pleasing  songs.  Some  of  the 
spicy  groves  are  the  haunts  of  beautifully  coloured  pigeons,  parrots, 
and  other  gay  birds,  which  impart  peculiar  splendour  to  these 
regions  of  perpetual  summer. 

The  reptiles  of  Asia  are  exceedingly  numerous,  and  of  great  va- 
riety of  species.  In  the  rivers  of  India  are  found  large  crocodiles, 
different  from  those  of  Africa.  The  serpents  are  various,  and 
many  are  of  the  most  deadly  nature :  one  species,  only  an  inch 
and  a  half  long,  is  said  to  destroy  the  person  bitten  by  causing  an 
unconquerable  and  deadly  sleep.  The  southern  regions  and 
islands  are  inhabited  by  others  of  a  very  large  size,  as  the  great 
python,  usually  considered  the  same  with  the  boa  constrictor  of 
the  New  World,  and  the  Anaconda,  most  common  in  Ceylon,  said 
to  be  of  sufficient  bulk  and  strength  to  destroy  an  animal  of 
considerable  size  in  its  deadly  folds.  The  celebrated  hooded- 
snake,  or  cobra  de  capello,  is  peculiar  to  India,  and,  with  other 
species,  is  well  known  to  be  tamed  by  the  Indian  jugglers. 

The  insects  of  Asia  are  inferior  in  number  and  variety  only  to 
those  of  the  New  World.  The  atlas  beetle,  near  five  inches  in  length, 
from  its  size  and  singularity  of  shape,  is  among  the  most  remark- 
able of  its  kind.  The  splendid  buprestis  vittata,  with  many  others 
of  equal  size  and  beauty,  are  so  much  admired  by  the  Chinese, 
that  they  are  kept  in  cages  when  alive,  and,  when  dead,  are  used 
as  ornaments  for  dress.  All  the  varieties  of  the  silk-worm  are 
found  in  Asia :  one  species  alone  has  been  introduced  into  Europe. 
The  white-wax  insect,  found  in  China,  is  remarkable  for  producing 
a  white  powder,  that  is  imparted  to  the  stems  of  the  plants  on 
which  it  is  found ;  the  natives  collect  this,  and  melt  it  with  vege- 
table oil,  which,  when  cold,  becomes  as  firm  as  bees'-wax,  and, 
when  made  into  candles,  is  reckoned  superior  to  that  article. 

The  useful  arts  are  pursued,  in  many  Asiatic  countries,  with  ex- 
pertness  and  diligence.  Agriculture  is  carried  on  with  great 
industry  and  care  in  China  and  Japan,  though  by  less  skilful 
methods  and  with  much  ruder  implements  than  in  Europe.  In 
Turkey,  Persia,  and  some  other  countries  of  Asia,  the  art  of  hus- 
bandry has  no  doubt  declined  in  modern  times.  In  India,  the  soil 
is  fertile  beyond  most  parts  of  the  earth ;  it  requires  but  little  ex- 
ertion in  its  cultivation,  and,  in  consequence,  but  few  efforts  have 
been  made  at  improvement. 

Among  several  Asiatic  nations  manufactures  of  various  kinds 
have  reached  a  high  state  of  perfection,  and  though  conducted 


ASIA. 


Silver  Pheasant,  of  Thibet  and  China. 
The  Silver  Pheasant  is  of  a  silveiy-white  colour,  with  very  delicate  black  lines  on  each 
feather.    The  under  part  of  the  body  is  black. 


Caspian  Tern. 


Mountain  Partridge,  of  Persia. 


Crowned  Pheasant,  of  Malacca  and  Java. 


Swallow-tailed  Pratincole. 


2  IT* 


Little  Falcon. 


ASIA. 


%&■ 


Black  Cockatoo,  of  Southern  Asia . 


King-necked  Parrakeet,  of  India. 


Silk  Fowl,  of  Japan.  Jungle  Fowl,  of  India. 

Among  the  domestic  fowls  of  Japan  are  the  Crisped  Fowl  and  the  Silk  Fowl.  In  the  first  the 
feathers  are  curled  up,  so  as  to  appear  at  a  little  distance  like  wool.  The  other  looks  as  if  it 
were  covered  with  long  silky  hairs.  They  are  both  white,  and  their  flesh,  especially  that  of  the 
silk  fowl,  very  tender  and  delicate. 


Atlas  Beetle. 


Tridacna  Gigas. 


The  Tridacna  Gigas  is  a  gigantic  shell-fish,  the  valves  of  which  sometimes  exceed  four  feet 
in  length,  and  with  the  animal,  is  of  the  enormous  weight  of  500  pounds.  It  adheres  to  the 
rocks  by  such  a  strong  ligament  that  it  can  only  be  separated  by  a  hatchet. 

534 


ASIA.  393 

with  small  capitals  and  simple  machinery,  are  scarcely  equalled  in 
richness  and  beauty  by  those  of  any  other  parts  of  the  world.  All 
the  efforts  of  European  art  have  been  unable  fully  to  imitate  the 
carpets  of  Persia,  the  muslins  of  India,  the  porcelain  of  China,  or 
the  lacquered  wares  of  Japan. 

Commerce,  though  much  restricted  by  the  jealousy  of  the  prin- 
cipal sovereigns,  is  still  very  active,  and  a  lucrative  trade  has  been 
carried  on  in  Asia  from  the  earliest  times.  The  internal  com- 
merce, by  caravans,  though  not  so  important  as  that  by  sea,  is 
yet  very  considerable.  The  foreign  trade,  particularly  that  with 
China  and  India,  is  chiefly  in  the  hands  of  the  English  and  Ame- 
ricans, and  is  extensive  and  valuable. 

Asia,  at  a  very  early  period,  previous  even  to  the  commence- 
ment of  authentic  history,  appears  to  have  made  a  vast  stride  in 
civilization  ;  but  then  she  came  to  a  stand,  and  has  suffered  herself 
to  be  far  outstripped  by  the  originally  less  advanced  nations  of 
Europe.  The  people  of  this  quarter  are  remarkable  for  the  tena- 
city with  which  they  adhere  to  their  ancient  customs  and  super- 
stitions. In  almost  every  nation  they  dress,  live,  and  act  as  they 
did  thousands  of  years  ago.  The  life  of  the  patriarchs,  as  described 
in  the  sacred  Scriptures,  is  still  found  unchanged  in  the  Arab 
tent. 

The  appearance  and  manners  of  the  inhabitants  of  Asia,  are 
different  from  those  of  Europe  and  the  United  States.  Instead  of 
our  tight  short  clothes,  they  generally  wear  long  flowing  robes, 
wrapped  loosely  round  the  body.  In  entering  a  house,  or  wishing 
to  show  respect,  where  we  uncover  the  head  they  uncover  the 
feet.  They  make  no  use  of  chairs,  tables,  knives,  or  forks.  At 
meals,  they  seat  themselves  cross-legged  on  the  floor,  and  eat  out 
of  a  large  wooden  bowl,  filled  usually  with  stews  and  sweetmeats. 

An  Asiatic,  on  going  to  sleep,  merely  spreads  a  mat,  adjusts 
his  clothes  in  a  certain  position,  and  lays  himself  down.  The 
household  furniture  is  exceedingly  simple,  consisting  of  little  more 
than  carpets  covering  the  room,  and  sofas  set  around  it,  both  of 
which,  among  the  higher  classes,  are  of  peculiar  beauty  and 
fineness. 

Their  attire  is  also  simple,  though  composed,  among  the  rich, 
of  fine  materials,  and  profusely  ornamented  with  jewels  and  pre- 
cious stones.  Their  arms,  and  the  trappings  of  their  horses,  are 
also  objects  on  which  they  make  a  studied  display  of  magnificence. 

In  their  disposition  and  temper,  the  people  of  Asia  are  mostly 
grave,  serious,  and  recluse  :  they  have  no  numerous  assemblages 
or  places  of  amusement,  and  they  regard  that  lively  social  inter- 
course, in  which  Europeans  and  Americans  delight,  as  silly  and 
frivolous.     Their  domestic  attachments  are  strong,  and  their  rever- 


394  ASIA. 

ence  for  ancestry  deep.  Their  deportment  is  usually  mild  and 
courteous ;  and  they  often  show  themselves  capable  of  generous 
and  benevolent  actions. 

Amongst  eastern  nations  generally,  the  women  are  kept  in  igno- 
rance, and  are  not  taught  reading  and  writing.  They  live,  in  a 
great  measure,  in  strict  retirement ;  and  never  go  abroad  without 
being  closely  veiled.  They  are,  likewise,  as  in  many  quarters  of 
Asia,  regarded  as  slaves;  and,  in  some  parts,  much  of  the  hard 
labour,  performed  by  the  stronger  sex  in  civilized  countries,  falls 
to  their  share. 

The  practice  of  polygamy  prevails  to  a  great  extent  in  nearly 
all  divisions  of  this  region;  though  in  Thibet,  an  opposite  system 
obtains ;  where  the  woman  may  have  several  husbands  at  the 
same  time,  and  enjoy  a  corresponding  share  of  influence.  But 
this  is  evidently  a  capricious  exception  to  the  general  rule. 

The  governments  of  all  the  countries  of  Asia  are  of  the  most 
despotic  character ;  and  the  idea  of  a  republic,  a  representative 
assembly,  or  a  limited  control  of  any  kind,  except  in  some  very 
peculiar  circumstances,  is  quite  foreign  to  the  ideas  of  an  Asiatic. 

The  number  of  tribes,  chiefs,  and  princes,  who  practise  plunder 
and  robbery  as  a  regular  pursuit,  is  a  feature  which  strongly 
marks  this  quarter  of  the  world.  It  is  generally  carried  on  in  an 
open  manner,  on  a  great  scale,  and  even  as  a  meritorious  and 
laudable  profession  ;  and  some  nations  derive  from  it  a  large  share 
of  their  subsistence.  The  Arabs,  Tartars,  Kurds,  &c,  are  the 
most  noted  of  the  predatory  nations. 

Asia  comprises  probably  a  greater  number  of  different  races  of 
men  than  any  other  quarter  of  the  world.  The  Asiatic  nations 
belong  either  to  the  barbarous  or  half-civilized  class  of  the  human 
family ;  and  few,  except  the  wandering  tribes  on  the  shores  of  the 
Arctic  Ocean,  are  in  a  savage  condition. 

The  state  of  education  and  learning,  in  Asia,  is  greatly  inferior 
to  what  is  found  among  the  nations  of  Europe  and  America.  In 
Mahomedan  countries,  there  are  many  schools,  conducted  by  the 
moollahs,  or  priests,  whose  main  object  is  to  teach  the  young  to 
read  and  write  the  Arabic  of  the  Koran,  only.  Hence,  even  those 
who  are  esteemed  to  be  well  educated,  are  comparatively  igno- 
rant and  uninformed.  In  India,  Japan,  and  China,  the  people  are 
generally  taught  reading  and  writing ;  and,  in  the  latter  country, 
high  attainments  in  the  national  literature  are  a  sure  passport  to 
power  and  distinction.  The  peculiar  state  of  the  written  lan- 
guage, however,  and  the  total  absence  of  correct  principles,  in  the 
sciences  taught  in  China,  render  the  real  knowledge  obtained  but 
small  in  amount. 

A  high  profession  of  religion  generally  distinguishes  the  nations 


ASIA.  395 

of  Asia;  and  the  name  of  God  is  always  in  the  mouths  of  the  peo- 
ple. But,  whether  Mahomedan  or  Pagan,  their  systems  of  faith 
are  marked  by  an  excess  of  bigotry,  ignorance,  and  superstition. 

The  divine  religion  of  the  Redeemer,  though  first  revealed  to 
Asia,  has  not  maintained  its  ground,  except  in  a  very  limited  de- 
gree. Mahomedanism  has  been  established  over  all  the  western 
kingdoms,  as  far  as  the  Indus,  and  even  to  some  extent  beyond 
that  stream. 

The  great  majority  of  the  rest  of  the  inhabitants  are  Pagans ; 
whose  modes  of  worship  embrace  many  forms  of  idolatry,  com- 
prising various  cruel  and  degrading  ceremonies,  and  doctrines  of 
the  most  absurd  nature.  They  generally  allow  the  existence  of 
one  Supreme  Being ;  who  in  China,  is  called  Fo ;  in  Thibet, 
the  Grand  Lama ;  in  Hindoostan,  Brahma ;  and  in  Birmah,  &c, 
Buddha,  or  Gaudama. 

The  Almighty  is  believed,  by  all  the  Pagan  nations  of  Asia,  to 
be  perfectly  indifferent  to  the  concerns  of  the  world,  and  of  man- 
kind ;  and  likewise,  that  he  has  committed  the  government  of  all 
things  to  a  multitude  of  inferior  divinities,  who  are  mostly  the 
avowed  patrons  of  cruelty,  obscenity,  and  every  kind  of  wick- 
edness. To  gain  the  supposed  favour  of  these  false  gods,  their 
deluded  worshippers  often  use  the  most  odious  rites,  subject  them- 
selves (o  many  voluntary  tortures,  and  plunge  into  all  kinds  of 
sinful  indulgences. 

Of  the  vast  population  of  Asia,  the  Pagans  number,  probably, 
360  millions ;  the  Mahomedans,  80  millions ;  and  the  Christians, 
Jews,  &c,  10  millions. 

For  the  conversion  and  instruction  of  the  benighted  myriads  of 
Asia,  the  benevolence  and  enterprise  of  some  of  the  Christian 
nations  of  Europe  and  America  have  been,  for  a  number  of  years 
past,  powerfully  exerted.  The  scriptures,  wholly  or  in  part,  have 
been  translated  and  distributed,  in  all  the  most  popular  eastern 
languages ;  and  many  missionary  stations  have  been  established. 
These,  in  connection  with  the  schools  founded  at  various  points, 
and  the  influence  of  the  press,  will,  no  doubt,  in  time  enlighten  the 
nations,  and  lead  to  the  spiritual  and  moral  redemption  of  this 
great  region. 

All  estimates  made  of  the  area  of  the  different  countries  of  Asia, 
and  of  the  number  of  the  inhabitants,  are  uncertain,  and  founded 
on  imperfect  data.  An  authorized  census  of  the  population  of 
China  has  been  made  ;  and  also,  of  Siberia  :  but  the  vast  amount 
of  the  former  renders  it  liable  to  the  suspicion  of  being  exaggerated ; 
and,  in  the  latter  case,  the  immense  extent  of  the  country,  the 
scattered  state  of  the  population,  and  the  wandering  habits  of  its 
rude  tribes,  make  it  of  doubtful  authority. 

537 


396 


ASIA 


The  following  statement  is  an  average  of  the  enumerations  made 
by  various  approved  writers: 

Square  Miles.  Population. 


Asiatic  Russia 

Independent  Tartary . . 

Turkey 

Syria  and  Palestine 

Arabia 

Persia 

Afghanistan 

Beloochistan 

Hindoostan 

Eastern,  or  Chin-India. 

Chinese  Empire 

Japan  


5,300,000 

10,000,000 

690,000 

6,500,000 

370,000 

8,000,000 

60,000 

2,000,000 

990,000 

8,000  000 

470,000 

8,000,000 

340,000 

6,000,000 

200,000 

1,500,000 

1,200,000 

140,000,000 

920,000 

20,000,000 

5,200,000 

226,000,000 

260,000 

14,000,000 

16,000,000 

450,000,000 

ASIATIC  RUSSIA. 

Asiatic  Russia  is  an  immense  tract  of  country,  stretching  from 
the  Black  Sea  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  and  from  the  Arctic  ocean  on 
the  north,  to  the  borders  of  the  Chinese  Empire,  Independent  Tar- 
tary, Persia,  and  Turkey,  on  the  south ;  exhibiting  a  length  of 
5400,  and  a  breadth  of  from  200  to  1800  miles  ;  and  containing 
an  area  of  probably  5,300,000  square  miles. 

This  region  comprises  Siberia,  together  with  the  territories  lying 
on  both  sides  of  the  Volga  river,  and  north  of  the  Caspian  Sea ; 
also,  those  traversed  by  the  great  chain  of  the  Caucasus,  and  situ- 
ated between  the  Caspian  and  Black  Seas.  The  population  of 
the  whole  does  not  probably  exceed  10,000,000  souls. 


SIBERIA. 

Siberia  occupies  the  most  northern  section  of  Asia,  and  con- 
tains nearly  a  third  part  of  its  surface.  A  considerable  portion 
of  this  country  is  included  within  the  limits  of  the  Frozen  Zone ; 
and  it  forms,  in  consequence,  one  of  the  most  forlorn  and  desolate 
regions  on  the  globe. 

Its  extent,  from  the  Ural  mountains  to  Bhering's  strait,  is  not 
less  than  4000  miles ;  and,  from  the  Arctic  ocean  to  the  Altay 
mountains,  from  1000  to  1800  miles;  comprising  an  area  of 
nearly  5,000,000  square  miles.      The  population  of  this  great 


ASIATIC   RUSSIA.  397 

region  is  extremely  thin,  and  widely  scattered — being  estimated 
at  only  5,000,000,  or  about  one  individual  to  the  square  mile. 

Much  of  the  interior  of  Siberia  is  occupied  by  those  extensive 
elevated  plains  called  steppes,  which  are  genei'ally  marshy,  covered 
with  long  rank  grass,  and  filled  with  numerous  small  salt  lakes ; 
but  other  parts,  in  which  the  soil  and  climate  admit  the  growth  of 
trees,  abound  in  extensive  forests,  and  many  portions  of  the  south- 
ern districts  are  comparatively  rich  and  fertile. 

For  its  western  boundary,  Siberia  has  the  long  chain  of  the 
Urals,  which  rise  to  the  height  of  not  more  than  from  3000  to 
4000  feet.  At  the  western  extremity  of  the  southern  border,  com- 
mences the  vast  Altayan  range,  which,  under  the  various  names 
of  Great  Altay,  Little  Altay,  Yablanoy,  and  Stannovoy  mountains, 
extend  eastward  to  Kamtschatka.  The  rivers  of  this  region 
almost  rival  the  greatest  of  the  new  world,  and  have  mostly  a 
northern  direction,  flowing  into  the  Frozen  ocean ;  the  shores  of 
which  are  barred  by  almost  perpetual  ice.  The  principal  of  these 
are  the  Obe,  the  Yenisei,  and  the  Lena :  there  are,  also,  the 
Olensk,  the  Yana,  the  Indighirca,  the  Kolima,  and  others  of  infe- 
rior magnitude. 

Siberia  contains  one  large  lake,  the  Baikal,  370  miles  in  length 
by  50  in  breadth.  Its  waters  are  fresh,  and  abound  with  sturgeon, 
and  other  fish ;  also  with  seals,  the  presence  of  which  seems  very 
remarkable,  considering  the  distance  from  the  sea.  The  chief  of 
the  other  lakes  are  the  Tchany  and  Soumy,  the  Piacinskoie,  and 
the  Taimourskoie. 

The  most  important  natural  productions  of  Siberia  are  drawn 
from  its  mines.  Those  of  the  Urals  are  of  gold,  platina,  copper, 
and  iron.  The  mines  of  the  Altay  are  of  gold,  silver,  and  copper. 
These  mines  are  worked  on  behalf  of  the  government,  by  slaves, 
who  consist  mostly  of  banished  convicts.  This  country  contains 
a  great  variety  of  minerals :  among  the  Urals,  diamonds,  eme- 
ralds, topazes,  and  rock  salt  are  met  with ;  and  the  Altay  moun- 
tains produce  the  topaz,  beryl,  onyx,  lapis  lazuli,  and  red  garnets. 

In  various  parts  of  Siberia,  there  are  found  numerous  bones, 
and  teeth  of  the  elephant,  and  other  animals,  now  only  existing  in 
the  Torrid  Zone  ;  and  the  remains  of  that  huge  creature,  the  Mam- 
moth, are  not  uncommon.  There  can  be  little  doubt  that  these  are 
the  remnants  of  an  antediluvian  world,  and  that  they  are  impressive 
memorials  of  that  tremendous  catastrophe  of  the  deluge,  by  which 
the  aspect  of  the  globe  was  changed. 

Siberia  abounds  with  various  wild  animals,  which  are  hunted  for 
their  furs.  These  furnish  the  inhabitants  with  their  winter  clothing, 
and  also  form  an  important  article  of  commerce.  The  sable,  the 
ermine,  the  marmot,  the  marten,  &c,  are  the  principal  of  the  fur- 

34  339 


398  ASIA. 

bearing  quadrupeds.  The  larger  animals  are,  the  white  and  brown 
bear,  the  elk,  rein-deer,  wolf,  fox,  &c 

The  economic  mouse  is  peculiar  to  Siberia.  It  forms  maga- 
zines of  provisions  in  the  ground,  which,  when  damp,  it  will  bring 
out  and  dry  in  the  sun.  During  the  summer,  the  male  and  female 
live  separate  from  each  other ;  but,  on  the  approach  of  winter,  re- 
tire to  their  well-stored  dwellings,  and  pass  the  rigorous  season  in 
ease  and  plenty. 

Agriculture  in  Siberia,  from  the  nature  of  the  climate  and  soil, 
is  extremely  limited.  Along  the  base  of  the  Altay  mountains, 
are  some  fertile  districts,  where  good  crops  of  oats,  rye,  and  bar- 
ley, are  produced.  The  indolence  of  the  people,  however,  the  want 
of  a  contiguous  market,  and  the  almost  exclusive  bent  of  the  Tar- 
tar inhabitants  for  pasturage  and  the  rearing  of  horses,  operate 
greatly  against  this  branch  of  industry. 

The  commerce  of  Siberia  is  confined  mostly  to  two  branches  ; 
one  formed  by  the  exportation  of  metals,  minerals,  and  furs ;  the 
other,  consisting  in  an  over-land  intercourse,  carried  on  from  Eu- 
rope across  Siberia  with  the  Chinese  Empire,  and  with  the  regions 
on  the  shores  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  trade  between  Russia 
and  China  is  transacted  at  the  frontier  and  adjoining  posts  of  Kiachta, 
on  the  one  side,  and  Maimatchin  on  the  other.  The  value  of  arti- 
cles exchanged  on  both  sides,  is  supposed  to  amount  annually  to 
about  2,000,000  dollars. 

This  country  serves  as  a  place  of  banishment  to  criminals ;  and 
many  prisoners  of  state  have  been  sent  here ;  oftentimes  men  of 
rank  and  intelligence,  who  have  greatly  contributed  to  civilize  and 
improve  those  parts  of  the  country  to  which  they  have  been  ban- 
ished. The  two  great  capitals,  Tobolsk  and  Irkoutsk,  have  ac- 
quired, to  a  considerable  extent,  the  polish  of  European  society. 
Hospitality,  the  virtue  of  rude  and  recluse  regions,  is  said  to  be 
most  liberally  exercised  throughout  Siberia.  On  the  other  hand, 
the  Russian  vice  of  drunkenness  seems  to  be  copied  with  most 
ample  addition. 

In  no  country  are  there  found  so  many  different  races  of  people 
as  in  the  Russian  empire.  Siberia  alone  contains  more  than  fifty 
different  tribes,  varying  in  manners,  language  and  religion.  The 
chief  of  these  are  the  Samoyeds,  Tungouses,  Ostiaks,  Tartars,  Bu- 
raits,  Yakoutes,  Koriaks,  Tchuktchi,  &c. 

The  Russians,  and  other  settlers  from  Europe,  occupy  the  towns 
and  military  stations.  The  native  tribes  are  mostly  of  barbarous, 
and  some  of  savage  habits,  roving  from  place  to  place,  and  living 
by  hunting  and  fishing.  Many  tribes  profess  the  religion  of  the 
Grand  Lama  or  Shamanism.  Others  are  Mahomedans  ;  and  some 
are  Paeans. 


ASIATIC   RUSSIA.  399 

No  part  of  this  extensive  country  belonged  to  Russia,  till  about 
the  middle  of  the  15th  century ;  nor  was  it  completely  subdued 
and  attached  to  it,  till  it  was  conquered  by  Peter  the  Great  and 
Catherine  II.,  in  the  early  part  of  the  eighteenth.  The  inhabitants 
were  formerly  almost  wholly  wanderers,  but  a  considerable  num- 
ber now  reside  in  towns,  villages,  and  settled  habitations. 

Siberia  is  divided  into  the  two  great  governments  of  Tobolsk,  or 
Western,  and  that  of  Irkoutsk,  or  Eastern  Siberia.  These  are  sub- 
divided ;  the  former  into  the  provinces  of  Tobolsk,  Tomsk,  and 
Kolhyvan ;  and  the  latter  into  those  of  Irkoutsk,  Yakoutsk,  Nert- 
chinsk,  Ochotsk,  and  Kamtschatka. 

Tobolsk,  the  capital  of  all  Siberia,  stands  at  the  confluence  of 
the  Tobol  and  the  Irtysh.  It  is  an  agreeable  place  of  residence, 
the  society  being  formed  on  the  European  model.  The  inhabit- 
ants are  social,  and  living  is  extremely  cheap.  The  business 
transacted  at  this  place  is  great,  as  all  the  trade  of  Siberia  passes 
through  it.  Population,  about  15,000.  Omsk  on  the  Irtysh,  Bar- 
naule  on  the  Obe,  and  Tomsk  on  the  Tom,  are  all  considerable 
towns,  containing  respectively  7500,  8000  and  10,000  inhabitants. 

Irkoutsk,  on  the  Angara  river,  is  the  handsomest  place  in  Sibe- 
beria,  and  is  the  capital  of  the  eastern  division  of  that  country. 
The  inhabitants  are  about  12,000  in  number,  and  consist  chiefly 
of  merchants  connected  with  houses  in  St.  Petersburg,  and  of  the 
civil  and  military  officers  of  government.  The  shops  of  Irkoutsk 
are  filled  with  nankeens,  porcelain,  lacquered  ware,  and  other 
articles  of  Chinese  manufacture ;  and  it  has  almost  the  aspect  of 
a  Chinese  city.  Irkoutsk  sustained  some  injury  lately  by  an  earth- 
quake. Yakoutsk,  on  the  Lena  river,  is  situated  in  a  bleak  and 
wintry  region.  Its  importance  is  derived  from  its  trade  in  furs  with 
the  surrounding  district.     Population,  7000. 

Ochotsk,  the  emporium  of  the  north-eastern  districts  of  Asia, 
on  the  shores  of  the  sea  of  the  same  name,  and  more  than  4000 
miles  east  of  St.  Petersburg,  is  a  neat  and  thriving  town  of  1500 
inhabitants.  The  traders  of  this  place  collect  all  the  furs  and  skins 
of  Kamtschatka  and  north-west  America.  Most  of  the  other  places 
in  Siberia  are  mere  villages,  or  trading  posts. 

A  large  and  long  peninsula,  called  Kamtschatka,  extends  into 
the  ocean  which  waters  the  eastern  extremity  of  Asia.  The 
inhabitants,  called  Kamtschatdales,  are  a  peculiar  people,  of  low 
stature,  with  flat  features,  small  eyes,  and  scarcely  any  beard. 
Since  the  Russian  sway  put  an  end  to  the  wars  which  they  were 
wont  to  wage  with  considerable  fury,  they  have  passed  into  a 
peaceable,  lazy,  servile  race,  careless  of  the  future,  and  addicted 
to  coarse  sensuality.  They  have  houses  both  for  winter  and  sum- 
mer.    In  their  domestic  habits,  the  most  remarkable  peculiarity  is 

2V  Ml 


ASIA. 


Mode  of  travelling  in  Winter  in  Kamtschatka. 
The  Kamtschatka  dogs  resemble  shepherds' dogs;  they  are  fed  on  the  offals  offish,  and 
in  summer  are  turned  out  to  seek  their  own  food,  their  return  being  certain  at  the  approach  of 
winter.  In  travelling,  from  four  to  ten  of  them,  according  to  the  weight  to  be  drawn,  are 
fastened  to  a  sledge,  shaped  somewhat  like  a  basket,  with  the  ends  turned  up ;  on  this  the  driver 
seats  himself  sideways. 


Castle  of  Teflis. 
Teflis,  the  capital  of  Georgia,  was  captured  by  the  Russians  about  forty  years  ago.    It  u  an  old 
town,  built  in  the  eleventh  century,  and  possesses  hardly  any  architectural  beauty  ;  but  is  noted 
for  its  warm  baths.    The  castle  of  Teflis,  once  a  place  of  considerable  strength,  is  now  in  a 
ruinous  condition. 


MAf=«i^  mm  ^ewiij^s?*5^^ 

Circassians  looking  down  from  the  Caucasus  Mountains  upon  a  Hussion  Camp. 

544 


ASIATIC   RUSSIA.  401 

Attruck.  The  waters  of  the  Caspian  are  as  salt  as  those  of  the 
ocean,  with  the  admixture  of  a  bitter  taste,  of  which  the  latter 
does  not  partake.  The  navigation  of  this  sea  is  generally  dan- 
gerous ;  and  there  are  but  few  good  harbours  in  any  part  of  its 
coasts. 

The  government  of  Astrachan,  together  with  that  of  Caucasus, 
to  the  south-west,  consists  of  almost  boundless  steppes  or  plains, 
in  many  places  nearly  desert,  but  in  others,  capable  of  supporting 
a  considerable  pastoral  population.  The  occupants  are  decidedly 
Tartar,  living,  like  the  rest  of  their  race,  in  tents  of  felt,  and  keep- 
ing large  droves  of  horses,  and  numerous  flocks  and  herds.  The 
eastern  tribes  are  Kalmucks,  and  the  western,  chiefly  Nogais; 
mixed,  to  some  extent,  with  the  Cossacks  of  the  Don.  Farther 
north,  the  province  of  Orenburg  rises  insensibly  into  a  mountainous 
elevation,  which  at  length  terminates  in  the  declivity  of  that  great 
chain  which  separates  Europe  from  Asia. 

Astrachan,  at  the  head  of  the  Caspian  sea,  is  the  capital  of  a 
government  of  the  same'  name.  Its  commerce,  by  the  Volga  on 
one  side,  and  the  Caspian  on  the  other,  is  very  extensive.  The 
chief  wealth  of  this  city,  however,  is  derived  from  the  vast  fishery 
which  it  carries  on.  The  quantity  of  fish  obtained  is  not  only 
sufficient  for  domestic  consumption,  but  is  largely  exported ;  and 
the  roes  of  sturgeon,  prepared  in  that  peculiar  form  called  caviare, 
form  an  article  of  trade  for  which  it  is  famed.  A  good  deal  of 
salt  is  obtained  from  marshy  lakes  in  the  neighbourhood :  and 
some  fabrics  of  leather  and  silk  are  carried  on.  Astrachan  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  wall,  and  is,  for  the  most  part,  poorly  built  of  wood. 
Some  handsome  edifices  of  stone,  however,  have  lately  been  erect- 
ed, particularly  two  commercial  halls.  The  population,  amounting 
to  70,000,  forms  a  various  mixture  of  the  people  of  Europe  and 
Asia ;  Russians,  Greeks,  English,  French,  Persians :  even  the 
Hindoos  have  a  small  quarter  appropriated  to  them.  Most  of  the 
Persian  trade  is  carried  on  by  the  Armenians. 

Orenburg,  situated  on  the  Ural  river,  is  a  well-built  town,  of 
about  2000  houses :  to  its  market,  the  Tartars  bring  annually 
10,000  horses,  and  from  40,000  to  60,000  sheep.  Hence,  also, 
numerous  caravans  depart  for  Khiva,  Bokhara,  Khokan,  &c. 
Oufa,  about  250  miles  north  from  Orenburg,  and  situated  at  the 
junction  of  the  Beila  and  Oufa  rivers,  is  a  small  town,  with  4000 
inhabitants.  This  place  was  formerly  more  important  than  at  pre- 
sent, being  nearly  all  destroyed  by  fire,  in  the  year  1820. 

Mosdok,  on  the  Terek,  Georgievsk,  on  the  Kooma,  and  Vlaudi 
Kaukas,  at  the  base  of  the  Caucasus  mountains,  are  strong  for- 
tresses, erected  by  the  Russians,  to  restrain  the  inroads  of  the 
people  of  Circassia.   Kisliar,  on  the  Terek,  contains  10,000  inhab- 

34  *  2  V  *  545 


402  ASIA. 

itants,  of  whom  the  chief  part  are  Armenians.  It  is  the  most 
important  town  in  the  Russian  government  of  Caucasus,  and  car- 
ries on  a  considerable  trade. 


CAUCASIAN  RUSSIA. 


Caucasian  Russia  comprehends  that  part  of  Asia  situated  be- 
tween the  Caspian  and  Black  Seas,  and  comprising  the  countries 
known  by  the  names  of  Circassia,  Daghestan,  Georgia,  Imer- 
itia,  &c. 

The  distinguishing  feature  of  this  interesting  region  is  the  great 
mountain  chain  of  Caucasus,  which,  in  height  and  variety  of 
aspect,  is  surpassed  but  by  few  in  Asia,  and  even  in  the  world.  Its 
greatest  elevation,  Mount  Elburz,  attains  the  altitude  of  18,000 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean. 

The  highest  of  these  celebrated  mountains  are  clad  in  perpetual 
snow ;  while  the  lower  declivities  contain  a  number  of  well-watered, 
picturesque  valleys,  forming  fine  pastoral  districts ;  and,  though 
not  capable  of  high  culture,  yielding  plentifully  Indian-corn,  millet, 
barley,  and  other  products. 

The  upper  regions  of  the  Caucasus  contain,  amidst  their  barren 
rocks  and  eternal  snows,  various  small  tribes ;  the  Ossetis,  the 
Kistes,  the  Lesghis,  and  others,  that  are  formidable  and  determined 
robbers,  and  the  scourge  and  terror  of  the  surrounding  districts. 
The  mountain  valleys  and  more  fertile  territories  are  peopled  by 
the  Circassians,  Georgians,  Imeritians,  &c. 

These  races  are  but  little  disposed  to  industrious  culture,  being 
liable  to  the  almost  continual  ravage  of  war  and  predatory  excur- 
sion. Their  supply  of  arms,  and  of  foreign  luxuries,  is  chiefly 
derived  either  from  plunder,  or  from  the  sale  of  their  people  as 
slaves.  Wine  in  considerable  abundance,  though  of  middling 
quality,  a  little  silk,  some  skins  and  furs,  and  fine  honey,  nearly 
complete  the  list  of  their  commodities  which  are  suitable  for  the 
purposes  of  trade. 

In  general,  all  the  Caucasian  tribes  profess  the  Mahomedan 
faith,  though  in  a  somewhat  loose  manner,  and  free  from  the  big- 
otry of  the  other  Mussulman  nations.  They  are  almost  univer- 
sally addicted  to  habits  of  plunder — that  national  plunder,  on  a 
great  scale,  which  is  considered  rather  a  boast  than  a  disgrace, 
and  which  is  generally  familiar  to  rude  tribes  who  live  in  the 
vicinity  of  more  opulent  nations. 

Russia,  after  a  long  struggle  with  Persia  and  Georgia,  has  se- 
cured to  herself  the  whole  western  shore  of  the  Caspian,  and  all 
the  level  tracts  between  it  and  the  Black  Sea.     Even  many  of  the 


ASIATIC  RUSSIA.  403 

rude  mountain  tribes  are  obliged  to  own  a  certain  homage  to  that 
power :  but  this,  as  well  as'the  accompanying  tribute,  is  scanty, 
and  fully  compensated  by  the  frequent  plundering  excursions, 
against  which  the  Russians  with  difficulty  guard  their  own  borders. 
° Georgia,  and  still  more,  Circassia,  has  been  long  distinguished 
for  the  athletic  strength  of  its  men,  and  the  fine  forms  of  its 
women ;  in  consequence  of  which  qualities,  they  have  been  in 
great  request,  as  domestic  slaves,  over  various  eastern  countries. 
In  Egypt,  particularly,  the  offspring  of  those  slaves,  kept  up  by 
continual  accessions,  long  maintained,  under  the  appellation  of 
Mamelukes,  a  sway  superior  to  that  of  its  Turkish  masters. 

Circassia. — Circassia  occupies  the  western  extremity  of  the 
Caucasian  chain,  on  the  north  side,  and  comprises  the  districts  of 
Great  and  Little  Kabardia,  and  Little  Abasia,  the  limits  of  which 
are  but  imperfectly  known.  The  inhabitants  are  composed  of 
several  tribes  or  clans,  and  reside  in  the  mountain  glens,  in  cot- 
tages built  of  wood  or  of  osiers. 

The  Russian  territories  everywhere  border  upon,  and  inclose 
Circassia:  yet  the  valour  of  its  inhabitants  has  set  at  defiance 
every  effort  to  reduce  it  to  a  state  of  regular  subjection.  Their 
courage  and  warlike  capacity  were  of  late  admirably  displayed  in 
the  defence  of  the  small  town  of  Akulko,  in  the  capture  of  which, 
the  Russians  lost,  in  killed  and  wounded,  12,000  men. 

The  distinctions  of  rank  and  birth  are  observed,  in  Circassia, 
with  all  the  strictness  of  Highland  pride.  Under  the  prince,  or 
sovereign,  are  the  nobles,  who  attend  him  in  war  or  foray,  but 
exercise  a  sway  almost  absolute  over  their  own  immediate  vassals. 
The  latter  are  of  two  kinds ;  bondsmen,  who  cultivate  the  soil, 
and  armed  retainers,  who  attend  their  chiefs  to  the  field ;  which 
last  have  often  been  raised,  on  this  condition,  from  the  inferior  rank. 
The  noble  Circassians  lead  that  sort  of  life  which  is  usual  with 
independent  chiefs,  on  their  own  estates,  and  surrounded  by  their 
vassals;  a  round  of  war  and  feasting,  of  hunting  and  jollity.  The 
chief  pride  of  these  feudal  lords  is  in  their  arms,  armour,  and 
horses.  Especial  care  is  manifested  respecting  the  latter,  whose 
pedigree  they  consider  almost  equally  important  as  their  own. 
Their  arms  are  a  mixture  of  those  of  the  middle  ages  and  of  mod- 
ern times :  their  coats  of  mail,  and  steel  helmets,  are  often  richly 
ornamented  with  pearls  and  precious  stones,  and  are  sometimes 
of  great  value. 

The  gratification  of  revenge  is  carried,  by  the  Circassians  to 
a  great  extent.  Blood  for  blood  is  rigidly  exacted,  and  the  duty 
of  redressing  an  injury  is  hereditary.  With  these  barbarous  prin- 
ciples, is  combined  an  almost  romantic  hospitality.  When  a 
stranger  has  been  once  admitted  to  draw  a  mouthful  of  milk  from 


404  ASIA. 

the  breast  of  the  mother  of  the  family,  he  is  under  the  protection 
of  the  house,  and  considered  one  of  its  members. 

The  Circassians  are  the  most  famous  of  all  the  nations  of  this 
quarter,  for  their  fine  physical  qualities :  the  men  are  tall,  hand- 
some, and  athletic  :  the  beauty  of  the  women  is  proverbial.  They 
have  been  long  esteemed  the  brightest  ornaments  of  an  eastern 
seraglio ;  and  many  of  them  are  purchased  annually  by  the  Per- 
sians and  Turks. 

Daghestan. — South-westward  from  Circassia,  stretching  along 
the  western  shores  of  the  Caspian  sea,  lies  the  mountainous  dis- 
trict of  Daghestan.  Its  fertile  soil  is  but  imperfectly  cultivated ; 
and  its  long  coast  presents  but  few  harbours.  This  district  is 
subject  to  Russia,  and  forms  part  of  the  government  of  Caucasus. 
Tarki  is  favourably  situated  on  the  sea ;  but  the  principal  place  is 
Derbent,  an  old  town,  long  the  bulwark  of  the  Persian  empire,  and 
still  exhibiting  imposing  military  works. 

Georgia. — On  the  southern  declivity  of  the  Caucasus,  extends 
the  famous  and  once  powerful  kingdom  of  Georgia.  The  world, 
perhaps,  does  not  contain  a  region  more  profusely  gifted  both  with 
richness  and  beauty.  On  its  successive  mountain  stages  are  raised 
all  the  varieties  of  fruit  and  grain,  both  of  the  temperate  and  tropi- 
cal climates.  The  woods  abound  with  game ;  and  the  mountans 
contain  in  their  bosom  mines  of  considerable  value. 

These  bounties  of  nature,  however,  have  been  rendered  una- 
vailing by  the  oppressions  of  a  feudal  government,  and  by  the 
continual  wars  between  the  Russians  and  Persians,  which  have 
desolated  Georgia  for  more  than  a  century.  Through  the  pressure 
of  these  evils,  the  population  of  this  fine  region  is  supposed  to  be 
reduced  to  a  number  not  exceeding  320,000  souls.  The  greater 
number  are  not  Mahomedans,  but  Greek  Christians,  with  a  large 
proportion  of  Armenians,  who  have  in  their  hands  all  the  traffic  of 
the  country. 

The  only  city  of  Georgia,  of  any  importance,  is  Teflis,  the  cap- 
ital. It  is  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Kur,  which  flows  here 
through  a  deep  and  gloomy  defile,  covered  with  immense  forests. 
The  Russians  make  this  place  their  head-quarters,  and  maintain 
there  a  large  military  force,  which  is  employed  in  repelling  the 
inroads  of  the  mountaineers,  and  keeping  the  country  in  subjection. 
The  population  of  Teflis  has  declined,  in  the  course  of  the  last 
twenty  years,  from  22,000  to  15,000. 

Shirvan,  Nakshivan,  and  Erivan,  are  districts  which  formerly 
belonged  to  Persia.  They  are,  however,  much  depopulated  by  the 
effects  of  almost  constant  warfare.  Erivan  is  a  strong  fortress,  not 
far  from  the  lake  of  that  name,  now  greatly  impaired.     Nakshi- 

548 


TURKEY  IN  ASIA.  405 

van  was  an  ancient  and  magnificent  city,  but  is  at  present  in  ruins. 
Shirvan  has  a  fertile  soil,  which  produces  rice,  wheat,  and  barley. 
At  the  eastern  extremity  of  this  district,  on  the  Caspian  sea,  is  the 
town  of  Baku.  Near  this  place  is  the  fire  worshipped  by  the 
Guebres,  or  fire-worshippers,  who  affirm  that  it  has  been  burning 
ever  since  the  flood,  and  will  continue  to  the  end  of  the  world.  It 
is  said  to  proceed  from  the  inflammable  nature  of  the  soil  in  cer- 
tain spots,  which,  if  dug  into  for  a  few  inches,  and  a  live  coal  ap- 
plied, will  take  fire,  and  continue  to  burn. 

Imeritia,  &c. — Extending  to  the  north-west  from  Georgia,  and 
between  the  Caucasus  mountains  and  the  Black  Sea,  is  the  terri- 
tory of  Imeritia,  comprising  Abasia,  Mingrelia,  Guria,  and  Imer- 
itia proper.  The  three  first-named  districts  stretch  along  the  sea- 
shore a  distance  of  more  than  300  miles.  Though  claimed  by 
Russia,  these  territories  are  virtually  independent. 

From  the  different  little  ports  on  the  coast,  Asiatic  Turkey  and 
Constantinople  are  supplied  with  silk,  honey,  and  also  with  slaves  ; 
the  obtaining  of  which,  by  purchase,  seizure,  and  every  sort  of 
nefarious  process,  forms  the  principal  occupation  of  the  chiefs  of 
these  regions.  It  is  estimated  that  Turkey  receives  annually  from 
thence  about  12,000  of  these  unfortunate  beings. 

Inhabited  by  a  race  even  more  rude  and  barbarous  than  the 
interior  tribes,  these  maritime  districts  are  wasted  by  internal  con- 
tests ;  and,  in  addition  to  the  various  forms  of  plunder  to  which 
the  inhabitants  of  rude  districts  are  generally  prone,  their  situation 
has  tempted  them  to  annex  that  of  piracy. 

Kotais,  on  the  Rione  river,  in  Imeritia  proper,  is  the  chief  town, 
with  2000  inhabitants.  Poty,  Anarghia,  Isagour,  Soutchukkale, 
and  Anapa,  are  small  ports  ports  along  the  coast.  Soukoumkale, 
in  Abasia,  is  the  chief  rendezvous  of  the  Russian  fleet,  stationed 
nere  to  check  the  depredations  of  the  Circassian,  Abasian,  and 
Mingrelian  pirates,  by  whom  these  waters  are  infested. 


TURKEY  IN  ASIA. 

Turkey  in  Asia,  or  Asiatic  Turkey,  forms  the  largest  and 
most  eastern  division  of  the  Ottoman  empire,  and  extends  over 
some  of  the  finest  and  most  interesting  countries  of  Asia.  No 
part  of  the  world  is  more  favoured  by  nature,  or  more  marked  by 
grand  historical  features. 

This  region  contained,  in  ancient  times,  various  populous  and 
powerful  states.  Here  flourished  the  mighty  empire  of  Assyria, 
the  cities  of  Babylon  and  Nineveh,  the  kingdoms  of  Pontus,  Lydia, 


406  ASIA. 

Ionia,  Pergamus,  &c. :  and  in  later  times,  these  territories  con- 
stituted one  of  the  fairest  portions  of  the  Roman  empire. 

How  great  the  contrast  at  the  present  day !  The  country  is 
harassed  by  robbers ;  agriculture  is  checked ;  commerce  and 
manufactures  languish ;  and  this  region,  so  favoured  in  its  posi- 
tion, and  so  rich  in  its  natural  resources,  is  almost  a  blank,  a  dreary 
desert  in  the  civilized  world. 

This  section  of  the  Turkish  empire  is  bounded  on  the  west,  by 
the  Archipelago  and  the  Straits  of  the  Dardanelles ;  north,  by  the 
Black  Sea  and  the  Sea  of  Marmora ;  east,  by  Persia ;  and  south, 
by  Arabia,  Syria,  and  the  Mediterranean.  It  extends,  from  east 
to  west,  about  1000,  and  from  north  to  south,  from  300  to  600 
miles;  forming  an  area  of  about  370,000  square  miles. 

The  principal  elevations  are  those  of  Mount  Taurus,  whose 
lofty  peaks  stretch  through  the  country,  from  the  Mediterranean 
to  the  Caspian  sea.  Near  the  north-eastern  frontier,  Mount  Ara- 
rat rears  its  snowy  peaks,  reminding  mankind  of  the  deluge — the 
most  memorable  event  in  the  physical  history  of  the  globe. 

The  chief  rivers  are  the  celebrated  Euphrates  and  the  Tigris, 
which,  commencing  in  the  same  region,  unite  their  streams  a  short 
distance  above  their  common  estuary,  and,  forming  the  Shat-ul- 
Arab,  enter  the  Persian  gulf,  about  75  miles  below  Bussorah.  The 
Sakharia  and  Kizzil  Irmak,  flowing  into  the  Black  Sea,  and  the 
Meinder,  Koduschay,  and  others,  running  into  the  Mediterranean, 
are  of  smaller  magnitude. 

Turkey  in  Asia  has  but  few  lakes,  and  those  are  nearly  all 
saline.  Lake  Van,  near  the  eastern  frontier,  is  the  most  exten- 
sive :  its  waters  are  so  brackish,  as  to  be  unfit  for  use.  Chains 
of  salt  lakes  extend  through  some  of  the  interior  parts  of  Asia 
Minor,  though  none  of  them  are  of  much  magnitude. 

The  sea-coasts  of  this  region,  from  the  Black  Sea,  including 
Syria  and  Egypt,  to  Alexandria,  are  often  denominated  the  Le- 
vant ;  a  term  which  signifies  the  quarter  where  the  sun  rises.  In 
"■»  more  extended  sense,  it  includes,  also,  the  islands  of  Cyprus, 
Rhodes,  and  the  Archipelago. 

Nearly  all  parts  of  this  country  have,  from  remote  antiquity, 
oeen  famed  for  their  abundant  products ;  and,  though  the  efforts 
of  the  husbandman  are  greatly  restricted  by  impolitic  exactions, 
the  soil  still  furnishes  all  the  necessaries,  and  most  of  the  luxuries 
of  life,  in  abundance :  raw  silk,  Indian-corn,  wheat,  wine,  oil, 
honey,  and  the  fruits  of  nearly  every  climate,  flourish  here  almost 
without  culture. 

The  manufactures  are  chiefly  coarse,  and  for  internal  consump- 
tion only.  Yet  silk,  cotton,  leather,  and  soap,  are  staples  of  the 
Levant.     The  women  among  the  wandering  Turcoman  tribes,  in 


TURKEY    IN   ASIA.  407 

the  interior  districts  of  the  northern  and  eastern  provinces,  weave 
the  much-admired  Turkey  carpets. 

This  region  was,  for  many  ages,  one  of  the  richest  commercial 
countries  in  the  world.  Its  importance,  in  that  respect,  has  greatly 
diminished  in  modern  times ;  yet  its  central  position,  and  fertile 
soil,  slill  render  it  the  seat  of  a  traffic  not  inconsiderable.  An 
overland  trade  is  carried  on,  to  some  extent,  by  means  of  cara- 
vans, with  Persia,  Syria,  arid  Arabia ;  and  a  maritime  commerce 
with  various  nations,  chiefly  through  the  ports  of  Smyrna,  Busso- 
rah,  Trebisonde,  &c 

The  principal  countries  comprised  in  Asiatic  Turkey  are,  Asia 
Minor,  Armenia,  Mesopotamia,  and  Kurdistan.  They  are  divided 
into  16  pachalics,  or  provinces,  which  are  under  the  control  of 
pachas  appointed  by  the  Sultan.  Each  of  these  rulers  is  a  sultan 
on  a  smaller  scale.  They  unite  in  themselves  all  the  civil  and 
military  power  of  their  respective  governments,  and  almost  univer- 
sally act  as  the  tyrants  and  oppressors  of  the  people. 

The  inhabitants  are  estimated  to  amount  to  8,000,000,  of  whom 
one-half  are  Turks.  These  form,  as  in  European  Turkey,  the 
ruling  race.  They  present  all  the  austerity  and  gloom  of  the  ancient 
national  character,  unaltered ;  being  further  removed  from  the 
influence  of  those  circumstances  that  are  rapidly  changing  the 
manners  and  aspect  of  the  inhabitants  of  Constantinople. 

The  remainder  of  the  population  embraces  Turcomans,  Kurds, 
Armenians,  Arabs,  Greeks,  and  Jews.  The  languages  spoken  by 
this  mixture  of  nations  are  equally  numerous.  In  the  commercial 
cities  and  towns,  a  jargon  compounded  of  several  tongues,  called 
the  lingua-franca,  is  much  used. 

The  Turcomans  are  a  wandering  pastoral  race,  scattered  over 
all  the  thinly-settled  parts  of  the  country.  They  live  in  tents,  and 
possess  large  flocks  and  herds.  They  are  skilful  horsemen,  and 
hardy  soldiers ;  and  generally  form  a  considerable  part  of  the 
military  force  of  the  Turks,  and  of  the  armies  of  the  pachas.  They 
combine,  with  their  Tartar  ancestors,  a  love  of  war  and  booty,  and 
generally  serve  without  pay. 

The  Kurds  inhabit  the  mountainous  districts  on  the  borders  of 
Turkey  and  Persia.  They  are  bold  and  daring  robbers,  and  often 
plunder  the  inhabitants  of  the  plains  that  lie  beneath  them.  They 
possess,  however,  a  frank  hospitality,  a  high  sense  of  independence, 
and  an  undaunted  courage  and  resolution. 

The  Armenians  are  one  of  the  most  ancient  nations  in  the 
world.  They  carry  on  all  the  trade,  and  many  of  the  manufac- 
tures of  Turkey  and  Persia,  and  are  to  be  found  in  every  country, 
from  Hungary  to  China.  They  are  frugal,  temperate,  and  cun- 
ning ;  aud  greatly  resemble  the  Jews.     The  Armenians  are  pro- 


410  ASIA. 

between  Persia  and  Turkey,  as  well  as  on  the  communications 
down  the  rivers,  forms  a  sort  of  key  to  the  commerce  of  Western 
Asia.  Orfa,  situated  between  the  Euphrates  and  Tigris,  is  a  well- 
built  town,  with  a  handsome  mosque  consecrated  to  Abraham,  and 
a  population  of  20,000  souls.  A  village  south  of  this  place,  inha- 
bited by  Arabs,  still  bears  the  name  and  site  of  Haran,  the  original 
abode  of  the  patriarch.  Mosul,  with  35,000  inhabitants,  is  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  Tigris,  and  opposite  to  what  is  supposed  to  be 
the  ruins  of  Nineveh;  the  only  monuments  are  mounds  of  earth 
nearly  a  mile  in  circumference,  similar  to  those  of  Babylon,  though 
not  so  lofty  or  so  perfect. 

Bagdad,  on  the  Tigris,  exhibits  scarcely  any  remnant  of  the 
gay  and  romantic  splendour  of  the  court  of  the  Caliphs,  and  but 
few  of  the  costly  edifices  with  which  they  enriched  this  city,  when 
it  was  the  capital  of  the  Mahomedan  world.  Almost  all  of  modern 
Bagdad  is  mean  and  foreign  to  the  ideas  which  the  name  excites. 
The  trade  with  India  is  considerable ;  and  goods  being  brought  up 
the  Tigris  from  Bussorah,  are  distributed  by  means  of  caravans 
through  Syria,  Asia  Minor,  &c.  The  inhabitants,  but  lately  reck- 
oned at  80,000,  have  been  reduced  by  the  ravages  of  the  cholera, 
the  plague,  and  the  sword,  to  less  than  one  half  that  amount. 

Directly  south  of  Bagdad,  and  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Euphrates, 
opposite  Hillah,  are  the  ruins  of  Babylon,  a  spot  to  which  recollec- 
tion gives  an  almost  unrivalled  interest.  Here,  over  a  space  ex- 
tending five  or  six  miles  in  every  direction,  are  spread  the  undoubted 
remains  of  the  most  renowned  city  of  ancient  times,  which  none 
of  the  proud  capitals  of  the  old  world  ever  rivalled  in  magnitude 
and  the  grandeur  of  its  structures,  and  which  is  rendered  still  more 
imposing  by  the  remote  antiquity  to  which  its  origin  extends. 

The  ruins  consist  of  vast  mounds  of  earth,  formed  by  the  decom- 
position of  the  materials  of  buildings.  The  principal  of  these  are 
three  great  masses,  of  which  the  first  is  1100  yards  long  and  800 
broad,  the  second  is  700  yards  square,  and  the  third  762  yards  in 
circuit  and  198  feet  in  height.  There  are,  besides,  smaller  mounds 
scattered  about :  these  all  contain  vast  quantities  of  excellent  bricks; 
many  have  inscriptions  on  them,  and  are  generally  so  well  ce- 
mented together,  that  it  is  difficult  to  separate  a  brick  from  the 
others  entire. 

Several  extensive  cities  have  been  built  at  different  times  out  of 
these  remains.  The  interior  of  some  of  the  mounds  contain  many 
cavities  tenanted  by  wild  beasts,  bats,  and  owls.  The  whole  scene 
is  in  exact  conformity  with  the  prediction  uttered  against  this  mighty 
city  by  the  ancient  prophets  of  Jehovah:  "Babylon  shall  become 
heaps  ;  it  shall  be  desolate  for  ever ;  none  shall  remain  in  it ;  will 
beasts  of  the  desert  shall  dwell  there." 


TURKEY   IN   ASIA. 


Gymnasium,  at  Ephesus. 
Ephesus,  once  the  pride  of  Asia,  and  famous  for  its  temple  of  Diana,  is  now  utterly  decayed, 
and  without  an  inhabitant.  The  small  village  of  Ayasaluck,  formerly  a  town  of  some  note, 
and  whose  buildings  were  constructed  with  materials  taken  from  the  remains  of  Ephesus,  is 
also  in  ruins.  The  outlines  of  the  ancient  theatre,  odeum,  and  gymnasium,  may  still  be  imper- 
fectly recognized. 


mi 


■  •A'     !l\-'<    % 


Tombs  at  Telmessus. 
Telmessus,  near  Macri,  is  noted  for  its  numerous  tombs,  in  most  of  which,  the  interior  and 
the  columns  in  front  are  cut  out  of  the  solid  rocks.    Some  of  these  structures  are  finely  adorned 
with  sculpture,  and  various  architectural  ornaments. 


Arch.  &c,  of  Mylasa. 
Mylasa,  now  occupied  by  the  modern  town  of  Melasso,  was,  in  ancient  times,  a  large  and 
magnificent  city.  Its  temples  were  so  numerous,  that  a  crier,  on  entering  the  market-place, 
instead  of  the  usual  exclamation,  "  Hear,  ye  people,"  called  out,  "  Hear,  ye  temples  !"  They 
are  now  entirety  demolished.  A  finely-ornamented  arch,  a  few  fragments  of  walls,  and  a  num- 
ber of  tombs,  arc  the  only  relics  of  this  onco  famous  city. 

555 


ASIA. 


Halicarnassus,  or  Boodroom. 
Halicarnassus,  nuted  in  ancient  limes  for  containing  the  celebrated  mausoleum  of  Queen 
Artimesia,  held  to  be  one  of  the  wonders  of  the  world,  is  supplanted  by  Boodroom,  a  Turkish 
town  of  some  trade  and  extent.    Fragments  of  ancient  buildings  may  still  be  seen;  the  most 
perfect  are  those  of  a  theatre. 


Supposed  Ruins  of  Miletus. 
The  ruins  found  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Meander,  are  supposed  to  be  the  remains  of  Miletus, 
at  one  time  one  of  the  largest  cities  of  Asia  Minor.    This  point,  however,  is  not  determined. 


Stadium,  at  Laodicea. 
Laodicea,  one  of  the  seven  churches  of  Asia,  and  in  the  days  of  the  apostles  a  great  city,  is 
now  desolate,  and  without  an  inhabitant.     Its  site  is  covered  with  the  fragments  of  ruined 
edifices.    The  stadium,  or  race-course,  of  the  gymnasium,  is  tolerably  entire. 


.  '-Z^-rA 


'iS 


Near  the 
•-  ppacioua 
eight  or  ic: 


Theatre,  at  Macri. 
town  of  Macri,  which  is  situated  125  miles  south-east  of  Smyrna,  nre  the  ruins  of 
theatre,  some  of  whose  portals  arc;  of  enormous  magnitude,  constructed  of  stones 
i  feet  in  length,  and  built  without  cement. 

SS6 


SYRIA.  411 

South-west  from  Hillah  is  the  town  of  Mesjid  Ali,  which  con- 
tains the  tomb  of  Ali,  the  son-in-law  and  one  of  the  successors  of 
Mahomet.  It  is  visited  annually  by  great  numbers  of  Persian  tra- 
vellers, who  esteem  this  point  of  devotion  equal  to  a  pilgrimage  to 
Mecca. 

On  the  Shat-ul-Arab,  or  united  stream  of  the  Euphrates  and 
Tigris,  is  situated  Bussorah,  a  city  containing  60,000  inhabitants. 
Its  most  important  trade  being  that  with  India,  is  carried  on  partly 
by  British,  but  chiefly  by  Arabian  vessels,  of  which  those  of  500 
tons  burthen  can  ascend  the  river  to  this  point.  Merchants  of 
various  nations  reside  here,  also  English  and  Dutch  consuls.  It 
is  a  dirty  and  meanly  built  place ;  the  bazaars  are  wholly  unsuita- 
ble to  the  valuable  merchandise  deposited  in  them,  and  there  is 
only  one  mosque  which  has  a  decent  appearance. 


SYRIA. 

Syria  has  long  formed  one  of  the  chief  divisions  of  the  Otto- 
man empire.  In  the  year  1832,  it  was  conquered  by  Mohamed 
Ali,  Pacha  of  Egypt,  and  remained  in  his  possession  until  1840, 
when  it  was  wrested  from  his  grasp  by  the  allied  arms  of  Great 
Britain,  Russia,  Austria,  and  Prussia,  and  restored  to  the  authority 
of  the  Sultan. 

No  country  was  more  celebrated,  in  ancient  times,  than  Syria. 
In  the  south-west,  was  the  country  of  the  Israelites,  and  the  birth- 
place of  Christianity.  Phoenicia,  particularly  its  cities  of  Tyre  and 
Sidon,  were  famous  for  their  commerce :  Damascus  was  long  the 
capital  of  a  powerful  kingdom ;  and  Antioch  was  accounted  the 
third  city  in  the  world  for  wealth  and  population.  Baalbec  and 
Palmyra,  once  important  cities,  still  exhibit  splendid  ruins  of  their 
ancient  greatness. 

Here  have  the  Assyrians,  Jews,  Greeks,  Romans,  Saracens,  the 
Crusaders,  and  the  Turks,  struggled,  at  different  periods,  for  mas- 
tery. Ignorance,  superstition,  and  barbarism  now  cover  the  land, 
and  no  traces  of  its  civilization  remain  but  ruins. 

Syria  is  bounded  on  the  north  and  east,  by  Asiatic  Turkey ; 
south,  by  Arabia ;  and  west,  by  the  Mediterranean  sea.  It  is  440 
miles  in  length,  from  150  to  250  in  breadth  ;  and  contains  an  area 
of  50,000  square  miles,  with  2,000,000  inhabitants.  While  it 
formed  a  part  of  the  Turkish  empire,  Syria  was  divided  into  the 
pachalics  of  Aleppo,  Damascus,  Acre,  and  Tripoli,  bearing  the 
names  of  their  respective  capitals.  These  subdivisions  are  still 
retained. 

The  chief  mountains  of  Syria  are  those  of  Lebanon,  or  Libanus, 

2  W  *  667 


412  ASIA. 

and  Anti-Libanus,  extending  from  north  to  south,  dividing  the 
country  into  two  distinct  portions,  one  bounded  by  the  coast,  and 
the  other  by  the  desert.  The  latter  occupies  a  large  portion  of 
the  eastern  part  of  Syria,  and  extends  to  the  river  Euphrates.  It 
is  a  continuation  of  the  great  Arabian  Desert ;  and,  like  that 
barren  region,  contains  some  oases,  or  fertile  and  well-watered 
spots. 

The  principal  rivers  are  the  Orontes,  or  Aaszy,  flowing  north 
into  the  Mediterranean,  and  the  Jordan,  running  south  into  the 
Dead  Sea.  There  are  also  many  smaller  streams,  which,  de- 
scending from  the  heights  of  Lebanon,  water  and  fertilize  the 
country.  Of  the  lakes  of  Syria,  the  chief  is  the  well-known 
Asphaltites,  or  Dead  Sea.  Those  of  Tiberias,  or  the  lake  of 
Galilee,  and  the  lakes  of  Damascus,  Hems,  and  Antioch,  are  of 
less  importance. 

The  soil  of  Syria,  in  favourable  situations,  and  when  well-wa- 
tered, is  of  great  fertility.  It  produces  abundantly  wheat,  rye, 
rice,  cotton,  tobacco,  sugar,  indigo ;  also,  grapes  of  excellent  qual- 
ity, with  the  fruits  of  almost  all  climates. 

A  very  extensive  land  communication  has  generally  been  car- 
ried on  from  Syria  with  Arabia  and  Persia,  but  the  long  continued 
wars  have  greatly  interfered  in  latter  times  with  the  passage  of  the 
caravans  and  pilgrims  by  whom  it  was  carried  on. 

This  country  is  inhabited  by  various  descriptions  of  people ;  of 
these  the  Arabs  from  the  desert,  who  drive  their  flocks  into  the  fer- 
tile and  neglected  pastures  which  more  or  less  abound  in  all  parts 
of  this  region,  form  a  numerous  class.  The  population  of  the 
towns  is  composed  principally  of  Turks  and  Greeks ;  the  former 
speak  their  own  language,  although  that  in  most  general  use  is  the 
Arabic. 

The  steep  and  rugged  heights  of  Lebanon  have  given  shelter  to 
several  races,  differing  essentially  in  character  from  the  rest  of  the 
population.  They  are  a  martial,  courageous  people,  and  have 
what  is  rare  in  Asia,  national  assemblies,  with  some  form  of  repub- 
lican government. 

Among  these  mountain  tribes,  the  chief  are  the  Maronites  and 
Druses  ;  the  former  were  originally  the  proselytes  of  Maron,  a  saint 
of  the  fifth  century  ;  they  are  Catholics,  and  in  communion  with 
the  Church  of  Rome.  In  general  they  live  in  a  happy  and  rural 
simplicity,  recognize  no  distinctions  of  rank,  and  all  labour  for 
their  own  support :  even  the  monks  and  priests  till  the  ground, 
raise  flocks,  and  pursue  mechanical  occupations.  The  entire  popu- 
lation is  estimated  at  150,000. 

The  Druses  inhabit  the  more  northern  regions  of  Lebanon. 
Their  origin  is  traced  to  a  persecution  that  took  place  about  the 


SYRIA. 


Damask  Rose.  Sycamore,  or  Wild  Fig. 

Syria  is  the  native  country  of  the  rose,  and  other  esteemed  flowers.  One  of  tho  finest  varieties, 
Lhe  Damask  rose,  was  brought  from  Damascus  to  Europe  in  the  time  of  the  crusades. 

The  sycamore  is  a  species  of  fig  tree,  tho  fruit  of  which  is  of  an  inferior  kind.  This  is  tha 
tree  into  which  Zaccheus  climbed,  in  order  to  see  our  Lord.  The  wood  is  prized  for  its  dura- 
bility.   The  cases  of  the  Egyptian  mummies  made  of  it  are  sound  at  the  present  day. 


Henna.  Galbanum. 

Trie  Henna  grows  in  Syria,  Turkey,  and  Egypt.  A  kind  of  paste  is  made  of  the  dried  leaves 
of  this  plant,  that  the  women  apply  to  their  finger  and  toe  nails,  which  it  stains  of  a  deep 
yellow  colour. 

The  Galbanum  tree  yields  the  gum  resin  called  Galbanum.  It  formed  an  ingredient  in  the 
incense  of  tho  Sanctuary,  and  was  once  esteemed  in  medicine ;  but  at  present  it  is  not  much  used. 


■  ■ 


Rose  of  Jericho. 
The  plant  called  the  Rose  of  Jericho  (rrowa  in  the  deserts  of  Arabia,  but  is  not  of  tho  rose 
kind.    At  maturity,  it  dries  up  into  11  round  tufl,  the  size  of  a  man's  fist.    When  immersed  in 
water,  cr  when  the  atmosphere  is  very  damp,  it  opens  and  expands  its  leaves ;  but  on  exposure 
to  the  wind  nr  to  heat,  it  resumes  its  former  appearance, 

533 


ASIA. 


Plane  Tree.  Apple  of  Sodom. 

The  Plane  Tree  abounds  in  Palestine ;  and  is  supposed  to  be  the  tree  which  yielded  the  rods 
that  Jacob  placed  before  the  sheep  in  the  water-troughs. 

The  Solanum  Sodomaeum,  or  Apple  of  Sodom,  grows  on  the  shores  of  the  Dead  Sea.  This 
fruit,  destroyed  internally  by  insects,  preserves  its  colour,  but  contains  only  dust. 


Cedar  of  Lebanon.  Spina  Christi.  Terebinth,  or  Syrian  Pine  Tree. 

The  Cedar  of  Lebanon  is  a  tree  of  large  6ize,  and  beautiful  appearance,  and  has  been  famed 
from  very  early  times  for  the  valuable  timber  furnished  by  it.  This  tree  is  almost  extinct  in 
Palestine ;  some  fine  specimens  are  to  be  found  in  England. 

The  Spina  Christi  abounds  in  Palestine.  Its  spiny  branches  were  the  thorns  with  which  our 
Lord  was  crowned.  The  Terebinth,  or  Pine  of  Syria,  yields  turpentine  to  some  extent.  The 
wood  is  white  and  hard.    This  tree  grows  to  a  great  size,  and  attains  a  great  age. 


Fruit  of  the  Carob  Tree. 

The  husks  which  the  swine  did  eat,  mentioned  in  Scripture,  in  the  parable  of  the  prodigal 

son,  are  supposed  to  have  been  the  fruit  of  the  Carob  Tree,  or  St.  John's  bread.    They  are 

still  used  in  Palestine  to  feed  cattle. 

560 


SYRIA.  413 

beginning  of  the  eleventh  century  among  the  followers  of  Mahomed. 
These  people  derive  from  their  independence,  an  energy  and  a 
vigour  of  character  unknown  to  the  other  nations  of  Syria. 

All  the  great  affairs  of  the  nation  must  be  decided  in  an  assem- 
bly of  their  sheiks,  at  which  even  peasants  are  allowed  to  be  pre- 
sent, and  to  give  their  voice.  The  Druses,  though  generally  Ma- 
homedans,  are  rather  indifferent  to  religion.  They  are  a  hardy, 
robust,  and  warlike  people ;  brave  almost  to  excess,  and  entertain 
a  proverbial  contempt  for  death. 

The  Motoualis,  who  live  to  the  south  of  the  Maronites,  are  big- 
oted Mahomedans,  of  the  sect  of  Ali,  and  are  regarded  by  the  Turks 
as  heretics :  they  are  an  intrepid  and  brave  people.  The  Ansari- 
ans  reside  north  of  the  Druses :  they  live  in  a  sort  of  anarchy, 
both  as  to  religion  and  government,  believing  in  the  transmigration 
of  souls,  several  incarnations  of  the  Deity,  &c.  The  numbers  of 
the  two  last  mentioned  tribes  are  inconsiderable. 

Damascus  stands  about  75  miles  from  the  head  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean Sea,  is  one  of  the  most  venerable  cities  in  the  world  for  its 
antiquity,  and  is  known  to  have  existed  in  the  time  of  Abraham ; 
it  has  been  ever  since  a  great  capital,  and  is  at  present  the  most 
flourishing  city  in  Syria.  It  is  built  of  brick;  and  its  streets,  like 
those  of  all  the  towns  in  this  quarter,  are  narrow  and  gloomy;  the 
inhabitants  reserving  their  magnificence  for  the  interior  courts  and 
palaces.  The  great  mosque  is  very  splendid,  and  the  bazaar  has 
no  rival  in  the  East  for  convenience  and  beauty.  Damascus  is 
no  longer  renowned  for  its  sword-blades ;  but  it  has  still  con- 
siderable fabrics  of  silk  and  cotton :  and  the  fruits  raised  in  the 
adjacent  country,  dried,  and  made  into  sweetmeats,  are  sent  to 
all  the  surrounding  regions. 

This  city  has  long  maintained  a  high  importance,  being  on  the 
route  of  the  great  caravans  to  Mecca,  whence  even  the  Turks 
esteem  it  holy,  and  call  it  the  gate  of  the  Caaba.  This  causes 
not  only  an  immense  resort,  but  a  great  trade,  which  the  pilgrims 
are  careful  to  combine  with  the  pious  objects  of  their  journey.  The 
environs  of  Damascus  are  very  fertile,  and  tolerably  cultivated, 
and  rank  as  the  paradise  of  the  east.  The  inhabitants  are  120,000 
in  number. 

Aleppo  was  formerly  accounted  the  first  city  in  Syria,  and  con- 
tained 200,000  inhabitants.  In  August,  1822,  it  was  shaken  to 
pieces  by  an  earthquake,  which  was  felt  from  Diarbekir  to  Cyprus. 
The  most  appalling  picture  is  drawn  of  the  horrors  of  that  period ; 
20,000  persons  are  supposed  to  have  been  killed,  and  nearly  the 
whole  of  the  remainder  of  the  inhabitants  perished  for  want  of 
shelter  and  food.  The  city  is  reviving  slowly,  and  now  contains 
about  one-third  of  its  former  population. 

35  *  561 


414  ASIA. 

Scanderoon,  the  port  of  Aleppo,  was  once  important,  but  its 
trade  has  been  mostly  transferred  to  Latakia.  Antioch,  the  an- 
cient queen  of  the  East,  is  now  a  poor,  ill-built  town,  of  11,000 
inhabitants.  Latakia  is  a  place  of  some  trade,  mostly  in  tobacco  : 
population,  10,000.  To  the  southward  is  Tripoli,  a  neat  town, 
with  some  trade,  and  a  population  of  16,000. 

Beyrout  is  inhabited  mostly  by  Druses ;  in  its  neighbourhood  is 
raised  the  finest  silk  in  Syria.  Its  export,  and  that  of  cotton,  cause 
some  trade  :  population,  6000.  Said,  or  Sidon,  famous  in  ancient 
limes  for  its  commerce,  being  second  only  to  Tyre,  is  now  a  small 
place  with  5000  inhabitants :  it  is  the  principal  port  by  which  is 
carried  on  the  maritime  trade  of  Damascus  across  the  mountains. 
Sour,  a  petty  fishing  village  of  300  houses,  is  all  that  remains  of 
the  once  celebrated  Tyre.  Modern  times  have  seen  the  dread 
sentence  fulfilled,  that  the  queen  of  nations  should  become  a  rock, 
on  which  fishermen  were  to  dry  their  nets.  The  harbour  now 
only  admits  of  boats. 

The  ruins  of  Palmyra  are  situated  130  miles  north-east  from 
Damascus,  in  the  heart  of  the  Syrian  desert.  This  once  splendid 
city  is  supposed  to  have  been  the  Tadmorin  the  wilderness  founded 
by  Solomon.  It  was  for  a  time  the  commercial  emporium  of  this 
part  of  Asia,  and  the  capital  of  a  flourishing  kingdom.  The  re- 
mains of  its  celebrated  temple  of  the  sun,  comprising  magnificent 
ranges  of  Corinthian  columns,  with  extensive  and  superb  colonnades, 
are  in  some  parts  still  entire,  and  with  the  vast  and  imposing  frag- 
ments of  various  other  ruined  edifices  scattered  over  a  considerable 
extent  of  ground,  attest  the  ancient  splendour  of  this  renowned  city. 

Baalbec,  Heliopolis,  or  the  city  of  the  sun,  situated  40  miles  north 
of  Damascus,  is  famous  for  its  classic  ruins,  which,  excepting 
those  of  Palmyra,  nothing  of  the  kind  in  Asia  can  rival.  The  frag- 
ments of  its  principal  temple  are  of  enormous  dimensions;  its  vast 
columns  of  more  than  60  feet  in  length,  each  forming  but  one 
entire  stone,  and  the  other  colossal  remains  still  existing,  seem 
more  the  work  of  giants  than  of  ordinary  mortals  :  their  formation  is 
ascribed  by  the  natives  to  genii  acting  under  the  orders  of  Solomon. 

The  island  of  Cyprus,  lying  west  of  Syria,  has,  with  that  country, 
become  tributary  to  the  pacha  of  Egypt;  it  is  140  miles  in  length, 
by  63  in  breadth.  The  natives  boast  that  the  produce  of  every 
land  and  climate  will  flourish  on  their  soil  in  the  highest  perfection : 
its  wheat  is  of  superior  quality,  but  wine  may  be  considered  as  the 
staple  product.  Its  fruits  are  also  delicious,  and  game  abundant. 
The  inhabitants  amount  to  70,000,  two-thirds  of  whom  are  Greeks. 
They  carry  on  some  manufactures  of  leather,  carpets,  and  cotton, 
all  of  great  excellence;  the  colours  being  particularly  fine  and 
durable.  The  principal  places  are  Nicosia  the  capital,  Lamica, 
Famagusta,  and  Buffa. 


SYRIA. 


Mountains  of  Lebanon. 
These  mountains  are  the  highest  in  Syria;  they  tower  to  the  height  of  11,000  feet,  and  have 
their  summits  capped  with  perpetual  snow.    On  their  sides  are  still  to  be  found  a  few  of  the 
majestic  cedars  with  which  they  were  covered  in  ancient  times. 


View  in  Antioch,  Syria. 
Antioch,  once  called  for  its  wealth  and  magnificence  the  Queen  of  the  East,  is  now  a  poor 
ill-built  Turkish  town,  of  11,000  inhabitants.    In  the  early  times  of  Christianity,  the  churches  of 
Antioch  were  the  most  flourishing  in  the  world. 


Ruins  of  Tyre. 

The  renowned  Tyre,  the  great  commercial  metropolis  of  the  ancient  world,  is  reduced  to  the 

insignificant  fishing  village  of  Sour;  and  modern  times  have  seen  the  dread  sentence  fulfilled, 

that  the  Queen  of  Nations  should  become  a  rock,  on  which  fishermen  were  to  dry  their  nets. 

A  few  relics  of  the  ancient  city  are  still  to  be  seen. 

363 


ASIA. 


Saida. 
The  town  of  Saida  occupies  the  site  of  tl  i  anciently  famous  Sidon,  superior  in  antiquity,  and 
nearly  equal  in  wealth  and  commercial  greatness,  to  Tyre.    A  few  huge  stones,  the  remains  of 
tie  gigantic  mole,  are  the  only  remnants  of  the  old  city. 


Island  of  Rouad. 
The  Isle  of  Rouad,  the  ancient  Aradus,  the  Arvad  of  Scripture,  is  about  170  miles  north  of 
Sour  ;  and  is  the  place  whence  Tyre  is  said  to  have  drawn  her  most  skilful  mariners  It  once 
contained  a  large,  populous,  and  wealthy  cily,  whose  houses,  according  to  Strabo,  contained 
more  stories  than  those  of  Rome.  The  island  is  now  a  mere  naked  rock,  covered  with  the 
remains  of  its  departed  grandeur. 


View  in  Palmyra. 

Palmyra,  or  Tadmor,  the  City  of  Palms,  was  once  a  most  splendid  capital.    It  was  adorned 

with  magnificent  palaces  and  temples,  whose  ruins,  though  it  has  been  twice  destroyed,  still 

excite  admiration.    Tho  Temple  of  the  Sun  is  the  most  perfect  edifice  remaining.    A  range  ol 

beautiful  Corinthian  columns,  occupying  the  space  of  more  than  a  mile,  arrests  the  attention 

of  every  visiter.  ... 

3d* 


PALESTINE.  415 

PALESTINE. 

Palestine  is  a  country  situated  at  the  head  of  the  Mediterra- 
nean Sea,  and  occupying  the  south-western  section  of  Syria. 
Though  of  limited  extent,  it  is  full  of  historical  interest ;  and  al- 
most every  spot  in  it  recalls  some  of  the  great  events  of  sacred 
history.  Every  name  commemorates  a  mystery,  and  every  hill 
and  mountain  re-echoes  the  accents  of  prophecy.  It  is  a  land 
teeming  with  miracles — a  region  abounding  with  almost  innume- 
rable evidences  of  the  power  of  the  Most  High. 

In  this  country,  the  patriarchs  Abraham,  Isaac,  and  Jacob, 
pitched  their  tents,  and  fed  their  flocks.  It  was  afterwards  the 
scene  of  the  striking  and  awful  miracles  of  the  prophets,  and  of 
the  Saviour  of  mankind.  In  still  later  times,  it  was  the  battle- 
field on  which  the  chivalry  of  Europe,  and  the  warriors  of  Asia, 
encountered  each  other,  in  the  eventful  period  of  the  Crusades. 

Palestine  was  at  first  called  the  Land  of  Canaan  ;  afterwards, 
the  Land  of  Promise ;  the  Land  of  Israel ;  and,  since  the  time  of 
our  Saviour,  the  Holy  Land.  It  is  bounded  north,  by  the  moun- 
tains of  Lebanon ;  east,  by  the  desert  that  extends  from  the  river 
Jordan  to  the  Euphrates ;  south,  by  Arabia ;  and  west,  by  the 
Mediterranean  Sea.  In  length,  it  is  about  170  miles ;  but  its 
breadth  greatly  varies ;  being  in  some  places,  60  miles,  and  in 
others  only  25.     Area,  10,000  square  miles. 

This  country  was  divided  by  Joshua  among  the  twelve  tribes 
of  Israel.  It  subsequently  contained  the  separate  kingdoms  of 
Judah  and  Israel ;  and  was  afterwards  governed  in  succession  by 
the  Chaldeans,  the  Greeks,  the  Romans,  the  Saracens,  the  Cru- 
saders, the  Turks :  and,  for  a  time,  it  formed  a  part  of  the 
Egyptian  empire  of  Mohammed  Ali. 

Palestine  is  beautifully  variegated  by  mountains,  hills,  valleys, 
and  plains.  The  most  remarkable  mountains  are  Lebanon,  long 
noted  for  its  tall  cedars ;  Pisgah,  for  the  view  it  gave  Moses  of  the 
promised  land;  Tabor,  for  the  transfiguration  of  Christ;  the 
Mount  of  Olives,  for  being  the  scene  of  the  ascension  of  our  Sa- 
viour to  Heaven ;  and  Mount  Carmel,  rendered  famous  by  the 
miracles  which  proved  the  divine  mission  of  the  prophet  Elijah. 
Gilboa,  Hermon,  Gilead,  and  Bashan  are  also  celebrated  moun- 
tains. 

The  Jordan,  now  called  the  Arden,  is  the  principal  river  of  the 
country.  It  rises  in  Mount  Hermon,  flows  through  the  lake  of 
Tiberias,  and,  traversing  Palestine  from  north  to  south,  empties 
into  the  Dead  Sea.  The  Jabbok  and  Gadama  are  its  tributaries. 
The  Kedron  is  a  little  rivulet,  running  west  into  the  Dead  Sea, 

2X  565 


416  ASIA. 

which  also  receives  the  Arnon,  from  the  east.  The  Kishon  and 
Sorek,  flowing  into  the  Mediterranean,  are  the  other  principal 
streams. 

The  chief  lake  of  Palestine  is  the  renowned  Asphaltites,  or  Dead 
Sea  :  it  lies  a  few  miles  south-east  of  Jerusalem,  and  is  supposed 
to  occupy  the  once  fertile  valley  in  which  stood  the  cities  of  Sodom 
and  Gomorrah.  Its  waters  are  Salter  than  those  of  the  ocean, 
of  a  disagreeable  bitter  taste,  and  very  clear  and  limpid.  They 
are  remarkable  for  their  great  density ;  in  consequence  of  which 
a  person  can  swim  with  more  ease  here  than  elsewhere.  The 
Dead  Sea  abounds  with  bitumen,  or  asphaltum,  which  rises  from 
the  bottom,  and  is  found  on  its  shores.  From  this  substance,  the 
lake  derives  the  name  of  Asphaltites. 

This  remarkable  lake  has  no  visible  outlet ;  and  is  supposed  to 
be  smaller  in  dimensions  now  than  in  ancient  times.  Its  shores 
are  a  scene  of  frightful  desolation,  surrounded  by  barren  hills  and 
mountains  :  not  a  tree,  nor  a  shrub,  nor  a  human  habitation  is  to 
be  seen.  As  in  the  days  of  Moses,  "  brimstone  and  salt,  it  is  not 
sown,  nor  beareth,  nor  any  grass  groweth  thereon."  The  lake  is 
called,  by  the  Arabs,  Bahr-el-Lout — Sea  of  Lot.  It  is  estimated 
at  from  60  to  30  miles  long,  and  10  or  15  wide. 

About  70  miles  north  of  the  Dead  Sea,  is  the  Lake  of  Tiberias, 
or  the  Sea  of  Galilee.  It  is  17  miles  long,  and  6  wide,  and  is 
noted  as  the  water  or  sea  on  which  our  Lord  walked,  and  where 
he  rebuked  the  storm  in  the  memorable  words,  "Peace:  be  still." 
The  waters  of  Merom  form  a  smaller  lake,  a  kw  miles  north  of  the 
former.  The  river  Jordan  runs  through  both  these  lakes :  their 
waters  are  sweet  and  transparent. 

The  climate  of  Palestine  is  exceedingly  good.  It  seldom  rains ; 
but  the  deficiency  is  supplied  by  the  most  abundant  dews.  The 
cold  is  never  excessive  ;  and,  although  the  summer  heats  are  great, 
yet  they  are  mitigated  by  a  periodical  breeze,  which  renders  them 
supportable. 

The  Scriptures,  in  describing  the  great  fruitfulness  of  this  coun- 
try, characterize  it  as  "  a  land  flowing  with  milk  and  honey." 
Although  some  have  represented  it  as  barren,  yet,  according  to 
the  best-informed  travellers,  the  greater  part  displays  a  truly  lux- 
uriant fertility,  corresponding  entirely  to  the  description  of  the 
promised  land  ;  and,  where  well  cultivated,  it  is  highly  productive. 

In  the  time  of  David,  the  number  of  men  able  to  bear  arms  in 
the  kingdom  of  Israel  was  reckoned  at  1,100,000;  and  from  this, 
the  total  amount  has  been  computed  at  8,000,000.  The  popu- 
lation does  not  at  present  exceed  400,000 ;  and  is  composed  of 
Turks,  Arabs,  Greeks,  Christians,  and  Jews.  Of  the  latter,  many 
have  emigrated  to  this  country,  since  the  Egyptian  conquest,  im- 


PALESTINE.  417 

pelled,  no  doubt,  by  their  long-cherished  attachment  to  the  land 
of  their  forefathers,  and  also  by  the  idea  they  entertain,  that  to  die 
in  Palestine  is  a  sure  passport  to  heaven. 

Though  oppressed,  despised,  and  scattered  over  every  quarter 
of  the  earth,  the  Jews  have  always  formed  a  part  of  the  popula- 
tion of  their  original  country.  Under  every  change,  and  every 
revolution,  from  the  day  that  the  kingdom  of  David  and  Solomon 
passed  into  the  hands  of  strangers  to  the  present  time,  a  remnant 
of  the  ancient  people  of  God  have  constantly  hovered  around  the 
holy  city,  waiting  for  the  coming  of  a  Messiah,  to  call  together 
the  scattered  tribes,  and  restore  them  to  the  kingdom  of  their 
fathers. 

Palestine,  and  the  rest  of  Syria,  was  conquered  by  Mohammed 
Ali,  pacha  of  Egypt,  in  the  year  1832,  from  the  Turks;  but  in 
1840  it  was  restored  to  their  authority.  Under  the  Egyptians, 
the  government  was  absolute  and  arbitrary  ;  and  though  it  af- 
forded to  European  tourists  such  protection  as  enabled  them  to 
traverse  all  parts  of  the  country  with  tolerable  security,  yet  the 
people  were  bowed  down  to  the  earth  by  a  rigid  military  despot- 
ism. 

All  the  able-bodied  men  were  dragged  to  the  army,  and  forced  to 
become  the  soldiers  of  their  warlike  conqueror  ;  and  in  conse- 
quence, many  of  the  most  productive  and  luxuriant  parts  of  Pales- 
tine are  without  cultivators.  Over  miles  of  the  richest  soil,  that 
might  support  thousands  of  happy  families,  may  be  seen,  at  distant 
intervals,  a  solitary  Arab,  turning  up  the  earth  with  his  miserable 
plough,  and  half-starved  puny  cattle.  He  sows,  but  he  does  not 
reap.  When  the  season  of  harvest  comes,  the  produce  is  not  his 
own ;  the  tax-gatherer  takes  not  a  fixed  proportion,  but  what  the 
pacha  needs. 

Jerusalem,  the  capital  of  Palestine,  is  situated  in  a  mountainous 
region,  about  35  miles  from  Jaffa,  its  sea-port ;  though  often  de- 
stroyed, it  occupies  the  same  position  as  in  the  days  of  Abraham, 
near  4000  years  ago.  It  became  in  after  times  the  metropolis  of 
the  Jewish  territories,  the  residence  of  the  kings,  and  the  site  of 
the  temple  of  Jehovah ;  and  was  rendered  memorable  in  all  suc- 
ceeding ages  by  the  death  and  crucifixion  of  our  Lord  and  Saviour 
Jesus  Christ,  in  the  year  of  the  world  4037.  Forty-seven  years 
afterwards  this  city  was  taken  and  destroyed  by  the  Romans ;  it 
was  subsequently  rebuilt,  and  has  been  since  captured  18  times  by 
different  conquerors.  In  the  time  of  the  Crusades,  it  was  for  88 
years  the  capital  of  the  Christian  kingdom  of  Jerusalem,  and  in 
1517  it  was,  with  the  whole  of  Syria,  conquered  by  the  Turks. 

Jerusalem  is  greatly  reduced  from  its  former  size  and  magnifi- 
cence :  all  that  remains  of  this  once  splendid  city  is  a  gloomy 


416  ASIA. 

Turkish  town,  enclosing  a  number  of  heavy,  plain  stone  houses, 
with  here  and  there  a  minaret  or  dome,  to  break  the  dull  uniform- 
ity. Two  striking  edifices,  however,  somewhat  enliven  the  gloom 
of  the  city :  these  are  the  church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  and  the 
Mosque  of  Omar :  the  former  has  long  been  the  grand  object  of 
pilgrimage  and  visitation  to  the  Christian  world.  It  was  erected 
by  the  empress  Helena,  the  mother  of  Constantine,  upon  a  site 
which  was  supposed  to  include  the  scene  of  the  crucifixion,  the 
entombment,  and  the  resurrection.  At  the  time  of  Easter,  it  is 
crowded  with  thousands  of  pilgrims  from  various  parts  of  Europe, 
Asia,  and  Africa. 

The  Mosque  of  Omar,  constructed  on  the  site  of  Solomon's  tem- 
ple, is  one  of  the  most  splendid  buildings  in  the  east.  Its  nume- 
rous arcades,  its  capacious  dome,  with  the  peculiar  costume  of 
eastern  devotees  passing  and  repassing,  render  it  one  of  the  grand- 
est sights  the  Mahomedan  world  has  to  boast  of. 

Jerusalem  is  estimated  to  contain  from  12,000  to  25,000  inhab- 
itants, comprising  Mahomedans,  Christians  of  various  sects,  and 
Jews.  There  are  a  number  of  Christian  convents,  of  which  the 
Armenian  is  the  largest :  it  contains  upwards  of  800  cells  for  the 
accommodation  of  the  numerous  pilgrims  that  resort  to  this  place. 
This  city  is  an  object  of  the  highest  veneration  and  the  most  pious 
regard  to  Jews  and  Christians,  as  well  as  Mahomedans ;  the  latter 
term  it  el  Khods,  the  Holy,  and  also  el  Sheriffe,  the  Noble. 

Bethlehem,  six  miles  south  of  Jerusalem,  is  a  village  of  3000 
inhabitants,  memorable  for  the  birth  of  our  Lord  and  Saviour :  it 
is  visited  chiefly  for  the  sake  of  the  convent  built  by  the  empress 
Helena,  over  the  manger  of  the  nativity.  Naplous,  24  miles  north 
of  Jerusalem,  is  near  the  site  of  the  ancient  Samaria :  this  is  one 
of  the  most  flourishing  places  in  the  Holy  Land  ;  it  stands  in  a  fer- 
tile valley,  surrounded  by  hills,  and  embosomed  in  stately  groves 
and  rich  gardens  :  inhabitants,  10,000. 

Nazareth,  noted  as  the  residence  of  the  Redeemer,  previous  to 
the  commencement  of  his  ministry,  is  75  miles  north  of  Jerusalem. 
It  is  a  small  town  of  3000  inhabitants,  and  ranks  next  to  the  latter 
among  the  holy  places  of  Palestine.  The  scenes  of  all  the  re- 
markable events  in  the  life  of  Joseph  and  the  Virgin  Mary,  are 
here  pointed  out  by  the  people.  North  from  Nazareth  is  the  small 
village  of  Cana,  famed  for  the  miraculous  conversion  of  water  into 
wine. 

Tiberias,  a  short  distance  north-east  from  Nazareth,  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  lake  of  the  same  name,  was  once  a  celebrated  city, 
long  the  capital  of  Galilee,  and  after  the  destruction  of  Jerusalem, 
the  residence  of  the  Jewish  high  priest :  it  is  now  mostly  in  ruins. 
Near  the  town  are  the  warm  baths  of  Emmaus,  over  which  Ibra- 


PALESTINE. 


Mount  Tabor,  in  Palestine. 
Mount  Tabor,  or  Gibel  el  Tor,  is  about  2000  feet  high,  and  is  four  miles  in  circuit  at  the  base 
It  is  celebrated  as  the  mountain  on  which  the  transfiguration  of  our  Saviour  took  nlace. 


View  of  the  City  of  Jerusalem. 


Interior  of  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  Jerusalem. 

The  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  at  Jerusalem,  is  a  stately  edifice,  300  by  2(10  feet.  It 
consists  of  three  churches,  connected  together  by  walls  and  covered  passages.  The  largest  of 
these  is  properly  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre ;  and  is  supposed  to  include  the  spot  in 
which  the  Saviour  was  interred.  The  other  two  churches  are  called,  one  the  Church  of  the 
Thiee  Crosses,  and  the  other  the  Church  of  Mount  Calvary. 

2  X  *  569 


ASIA. 


Grotto  in  the  Convent  at  Bethlehem. 
In  the  Convent  at  Bethlehem,  built  by  the  Empress  Helena,  is  a  subterranean  grotto,  in  which 
a  small  marble  basin  is  shown,  that  is  affirmed  to  be  the  manger  in  which  the  infant  Saviour 
was  laid.    The  grotto  is  lighted  by  silver  and  crystal  lamps.    It  is  visited  by  numerous  pilgrims. 


Arabs  attacking  a  Caravan. 


Arab  Encampment. 


PALESTINE.  419 

him  Pacha  has  lately  erected  a  circular  building,  with  a  dome, 
like  the  baths  of  Constantinople. 

Saphet  or  Zaffad,  90  miles  north  of  Jerusalem,  is  considered  a 
holy  city  by  the  Jews,  who  believe  that  the  Messiah,  whom  they 
expect,  will  establish  the  seat  of  his  empire  here.  A  few  years 
ago  the  town  contained  3000  inhabitants,  of  whom  about  one-third 
were  Jews.  Both  Tiberias  and  Saphet  were  a  short  time  since 
nearly  destroyed  by  an  earthquake. 

Gaza,  Jaffa,  and  Acre,  are  the  principal  places  on  the  coast. 
Gaza,  noted  from  the  earliest  ages,  and  celebrated  for  the  acts  of 
Sampson,  is  a  decayed  town,  of  about  5000  inhabitants,  who  carry 
on  some  trade  in  cotton  goods,  &c.  Jaffa,  anciently  Joppa,  was 
conspicuous  as  the  port  of  Judea,  and  the  only  point  by  which 
David  and  Solomon  communicated  with  the  Mediterranean  Sea : 
tradition  reports  that  it  existed  before  the  Deluge,  and  that  it  was 
the  residence  of  Noah,  and  the  place  where  he  built  the  ark.  Here 
Jonah  embarked  for  Tarshish,  and  the  apostle  Peter  raised  Tabitha 
from  the  dead.  The  town  is  environed  with  gardens,  where  lem- 
ons, oranges,  citrons,  watermelons,  &c.  grow  in  great  perfection. 
Jaffa  has  been  lately  destroyed  by  an  earthquake,  and  a  great  part 
of  the  inhabitants  perished. 

About  65  miles  north  of  Jaffa  is  Acre,  the  population  of  which, 
previous  to  the  year  1832,  was  reckoned  at  25,000.  Both  these 
places  became  famous  during  the  Crusades,  and  also  at  the  close 
of  last  century,  when  Syria  was  invaded  by  Bonaparte.  That 
general  besieged  Acre,  but  was  repulsed  with  loss,  and  compelled 
to  retreat.  In  the  year  1832,  it  was  captured  by  an  Egyptian 
army,  after  a  siege  of  six  months,  during  which,  25,000  of  the 
inhabitants  and  combatants  perished  by  the  ravages  of  disease 
and  of  the  sword.  The  city  and  its  population  were,  in  conse- 
quence, nearly  destroyed.  It  has  been  since  that  time  rebuilt 
and  strongly  fortified.  In  1840,  Acre,  as  well  as  Beyrout  and 
Sidon,  to  the  northward,  were  bombarded  and  taken  by  the  British 
and  allied  fleets,  under  Admirals  Stopford  and  Napier. 

Hebron,  the  city  and  first  capital  of  David,  is  situated  about  20 
mjles  south  from  Jerusalem.  It  is  now  a  small  decaying  town, 
the  population  of  which  is  composed  principally  of  Arabs,  with  a 
few  Jewish  families.  The  inhabitants  are  noted  as  the  most  law- 
less and  desperate  race  in  Palestine ;  and  they  sustained  precisely 
the  same  character  in  the  time  of  David.  The  reputed  tombs  of 
Abraham,  Isaac,  and  Jacob,  are  shown  here. 

A  few  miles  from  Hebron,  there  are  three  noble  reservoirs, 
supplied  by  a  spring  called  the  pools  of  Solomon;  the  waters  of 
which  are  conveyed  to  Jerusalem  by  a  small  aqueduct.  These 
structures  are  in  good  preservation,  and  are  supposed  to  be,  in 


420  ASIA. 

reality,  the  work  of  their  alleged  founder.  They  are  of  different 
altitudes ;  the  water  from  the  first  runs  into  the  second,  and  from 
the  second  into  the  third. 


ARABIA. 

Arabia  forms  a  great  peninsula,  occupying  the  south-west 
corner  of  Asia.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north,  by  Asiatic  Turkey 
and  Syria ;  east,  by  the  Persian  Gulf  and  the  Arabian  Sea  ;  west, 
by  the  Red  Sea,  Egypt,  and  Syria ;  and  south,  by  the  Arabian 
Sea.  It  is  about  1500  miles  long  from  north  to  south,  and  1300 
wide  from  east  to  west.     Area  in  square  miles,  990,000. 

The  general  aspect  of  Arabia  is  that  of  a  vast  sandy  desert,  in- 
terspersed, in  various  directions,  with  numerous  ridges  of  moun- 
tains, none  of  which,  however,  attain  to  much  elevation.  Water 
is  generally  scarce ;  and  there  are  no  rivers  or  lakes  of  any  size 
or  importance. 

Of  its  mountains,  Sinai  and  Horeb  are  highly  celebrated ;  and 
are  rendered  famous  by  some  of  the  most  remarkable  events  ever 
recorded.  The  Ramleah  and  Sofra  mountains  of  the  Hedjaz,  and 
the  Nos  Labau,  in  Hadramaut,  are  but  imperfectly  known.  Along 
the  whole  western  coast  of  the  Red  Sea,  a  narrow  sandy  belt  of 
country  extends,  called  the  Tehama,  behind  which  the  land  rises, 
not  into  the  naked  rocks  and  sandy  deserts  of  the  interior,  but 
often  into  hills  of  moderate  elevation,  covered  in  parts  with  a  rich 
and  varied  vegetation,  which  contrasts  beautifully  with  the  sur- 
rounding waste.  These  favoured  spots  are  found  mostly  in  Yemen 
and  Omon.  The  extensive  barren  region  which  stretches  from 
Mecca  to  Muscat,  is  called  the  desert  of  Akhaf.  It  is,  for  the 
most  part,  destitute  of  water  ;  but  is  frequently  traversed  by  the 
caravans. 

Arabia  was  divided  by  the  ancients  into  three  great  divisions : 
Arabia  Felix,  or  the  happy ;  Arabia  Petrasa,  or  the  stony ;  and 
Arabia  Deserta,  or  the  sandy.  These  names  are  still  in  common 
use  among  Europeans,  but  are  not  known  or  recognized  by  the 
natives. 

The  actual  local  divisions  are:  1st.  The  Hedjaz,  situated  along 
the  upper  coasts  of  the  Red  Sea.  2d.  Yemen,  lying  on  the  lower 
shores  of  the  Red  Sea,  and  on  the  Gulf  of  Aden.  3d.  Hadra- 
maut, whose  coast  is  washed  by  the  Arabian  Sea,  or  Indian  Ocean. 
4th.  Omon,  lying  partly  on  the  Sea  of  Omon,  and  on  the  Persian 
Gulf.  5th.  Lahsa,  or  Hajar,  extending  from  Omon,  along  the 
Persian  Gulf  to  the  river  Euphrates.     6th.  Nedsjed,  the  country 


ARABIA.  42! 

of  the  Wahabees,  occupying  the  centre  of  Arabia,  between  Lahsa 
and  the  Hecljaz. 

The  soil  of  Arabia  is,  in  a  peculiar  degree,  arid  and  barren.  On 
a  great  part  of  its  surface,  no  grain  can  be  raised  at  all;  and  in 
others,  only  that  coarse  kind  of  millet  called  dhourra,  which  is 
the  general  food  of  the  inhabitants  in  various  sandy  regions. 

Many  parts  of  Yemen  and  Omon  form,  however,  exceptions  to 
the  general  sterility  of  this  country,  being  productive  and  well  cul- 
tivated. The  inhabitants  of  these  districts  are  skilful  and  indus- 
trious husbandmen ;  they  water  their  lands  with  great  care  and 
attention,  and  display  some  ingenuity  in  their  contrivances  for  that 
purpose.  Coffee  is  the  most  important  product,  particularly  of 
Yemen ;  but  wheat  and  Indian-corn,  indigo,  pepper,  the  balm  of 
Mecca,  senna  and  tamarinds,  abound,  together  with  the  principal 
fruits  of  temperate  and  tropical  climates. 

The  horse  and  camel  are  the  principal  animals  of  this  country ; 
the  former,  as  to  swiftness  and  beauty,  enjoys  a  higher  reputation 
than  any  other  species  in  the  world.  This  is  maintained  by  an 
almost  fantastic  attention  to  their  birth  and  training.  The  wan- 
dering Arab  of  the  desert  places  his  highest  felicity  in  his  horses, 
and  is  so  attached  to  them  that  they  are  more  his  companions  than 
his  servants.  These  animals  possess  in  the  most  eminent  degree 
the  qualities  of  endurance,  vigour,  and  admirable  temper.  The 
camel,  which  seems  to  have  been  created  expressly  for  the  soft 
soil  and  thirsty  plains  of  Arabia,  is  indigenous  to  that  country,  and 
seems  to  have  been  transported  thence  to  the  wide  tracts  of  similar 
character,  which  cover  so  great  a  part  of  northern  Africa.  Even 
the  ass  is  here  of  a  superior  breed,  tall  and  handsome,  and  gene 
rally  preferred  for  travelling  to  any  other  animal. 

Manufactures  of  any  kind  can  scarcely  be  said  to  exist  in  Arabia, 
with  the  exception  of  some  quite  common  fabrics  for  domestic  use. 
But  for  commerce,  Arabia  enjoyed  an  early  celebrity.  At  all 
periods  prior  to  the  discovery  of  the  passage  by  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  the  greater  part  of  the  rich  commodities  of  India  were  trans- 
ported either  up  the  Red  Sea,  or  across  the  country  from  the  Per- 
sian Gulf.  The  desert  glittered  with  pearls  and  gems ;  and  ma- 
jestic cities,  that  lie  now  in  ruins,  arose  amid  the  waste.  Since 
this  trade  has  taken  a  different  direction,  the  maritime  commerce 
is  almost  wholly  limited  to  the  export  of  coffee,  in  exchange  for 
the  manufactures  of  Hindoostan.  Some  gum  arabic,  senna  leaves, 
aloes,  myrrh,  and  frankincense,  are  also  exported.  A  great  part 
of  the  three  last  are  brought  however  from  the  opposite  coast  of 
Berbora. 

Arabia  has,  from  the  earliest  ages,  comprised  a  number  of  small 
tribes  or  states,  ruled  by  chiefs  styled  sheiks  and  imams.     These 

36  573 


422  ASIA. 

are  each  independent  of  the  other,  and  govern  their  respective  ter- 
ritories with  a  sort  of  patriarchal  sway.  Every  little  community 
is  considered  as  a  distinct  family,  the  head  of  which  exercises 
paternal  authority  over  the  rest.  The  Arabian  chiefs  are  proud 
to  excess  of  their  high  descent,  being  each  considered  as  the  natu- 
ral head  of  a  race  so  remote,  that  its  origin  is  traced  back  for 
thousands  of  years.  A  sheik  of  an  ancient  Arab  tribe  would  not 
exchange  his  title  for  that  of  sultan. 

The  dignity  of  sheriffe  implies  a  direct  lineage  from  Mahomed, 
and  is  marked  by  the  privilege  of  wearing  a  green  turban.  This 
distinction  is  diffused  to  some  extent,  and  descends  often  to  the 
poorest  among  the  people.  When  the  green  turban  is  worn  by 
the  head  of  an  ancient  tribe,  it  denotes  the  highest  dignity  that 
can  exist  in  Arabia. 

The  religion  of  Mahomed  still  maintains  undisputed  sway  in 
Arabia  ;  and  Christians,  who  were  once  numerous,  are  now  entirely 
extinct.  The  rival  sects  of  the  Sonnites  and  the  Sheas  have  each 
their  respective  districts  in  Arabia.  The  former  ranks  first,  hav- 
ing always  had  in  their  possession  the  holy  cities  of  Mecca  and 
Medina. 

The  Wahabees,  who  arose  during  the  last  century,  were  for  a 
time  the  dominant  people  in  Arabia,  but  their  power  is  now  greatly 
restricted.  These  people  acknowledge  the  Koran  as  their  religious 
guide,  but  deny  the  lawfulness  of  paying  divine  honours  to  Ma- 
homed, whom  they  consider  as  a  mere  man.  The  Rechabites  are 
a  tribe  of  Jews,  residing  in  the  interior  of  the  Hedjaz,  who  have 
preserved  the  rites  and  the  sacred  books  of  their  religion.  They 
live  like  their  original  ancestors,  in  tents,  and  have  adopted  the 
plundering  habits  of  the  Bedouins. 

Mahomedanism,  or  Islamism,  was  founded  by  Mahomed,  an  im- 
postor, born  at  Mecca  in  the  year  571.  At  the  age  of  40,  he  pre- 
tended to  be  a  prophet  sent  by  God  to  reveal  a  new  religion  to 
mankind.  Though  strenuously  opposed  at  first,  he  in  the  course 
of  22  years  established  his  system  over  the  greater  part  of  Arabia. 
An  intimate  knowledge  of  the  genius  and  feelings  of  his  country- 
men, a  large  share  of  cunning,  and  some  military  talent,  season- 
ably exerted,  appear  to  have  been  the  chief  causes  of  the  rapid 
extension  of  the  new  doctrines.  Under  the  guidance  of  the  imme- 
diate successors  of  Mahomed,  and  of  the  Caliphs,  it  was  extended 
over  some  of  the  finest  and  most  populous  portions  of  the  world 
known  at  that  time. 

Mahomed  taught  the  worship  of  one  God,  the  immortality  of 
the  soul,  and  a  future  judgment ;  he  admitted  of  the  divine  mission 
of  Moses  and  of  our  Saviour  Jesus  Christ,  and  acknowledged  the 
sacred  character  of  the  old  and  new  testaments.     He  forbade  the 


ARABIA.  423 

use  of  wine  and  pork,  prescribed  circumcision,  occasional  fasts, 
and  a  pilgrimage  to  Mecca,  the  place  of  his  birth. 

This  system  permits  much  that  Christianity  forbids  as  criminal, 
and  promises  a  paradise  where  every  believer  will  have  thousands 
of  slaves  at  his  command,  and  every  appetite  and  every  passion 
will  be  gratified.  Its  chief  characteristics  are  gross  sensuality,  a 
rigid  observance  of  ceremonies,  and  a  spirit  of  hostility  towards 
all  other  sects.  The  sacred  book  of  the  Mahomedans  is  the  Koran ; 
it  is  considered  by  them  to  be  of  divine  origin,  is  extolled  for  the 
sublimity  of  its  language,  and  is  written  in  Arabic.  The  temples 
of  this  faith  are  called  mosques,  and  service  is  performed  in  them 
every  Friday. 

The  Arabs  are  of  a  sallow  complexion,  with  dark  sparkling 
eyes ;  they  are  small,  thin,  and  spare  in  person,  and  those  inhabit- 
ing the  desert  are  meagre  even  to  emaciation,  yet  they  are  active 
and  agile,  and  are  capable  of  enduring  great  fatigue :  they  excel 
in  horsemanship,  and  possess  generally  a  considerable  share  of 
personal  courage. 

From  the  sterile  character  of  the  country,  these  people  are 
obliged  to  live  in  the  most  abstemious  manner :  a  few  dates,  or  a 
small  piece  of  hard  bread  with  a  little  butter  or  milk,  furnish  a 
meal.  Animal  food  is  but  seldom  used,  and  even  among  the  rich 
there  is  hardly  any  variety  of  vegetable  diet.  On  occasions,  how- 
ever, when  an  ample  supply  of  provisions  can  be  procured,  the 
Bedouins  never  fail  to  make  amends  for  their  usual  frugal  fare, 
and  have  been  known  to  consume  a  vast  amount  of  food. 

The  Arabs  are  divided  into  two  great  classes — the  inhabitants 
of  the  desert,  or  Bedouins,  and  the  people  of  the  towns.  The  former 
have  no  settled  dwellings,  but  live  in  tents,  and  wander  about  from 
place  to  place,  in  search  of  water  and  pasture.  When  they  have 
exhausted  these  in  one  place,  they  remove  to  another.  The  life  of 
a  Bedouin  is  precisely  the  same  as  that  of  the  patriarchs  of  old. 
Abraham,  Isaac,  and  Jacob,  were  Bedouins  in  their  habits ;  and 
four  thousand  years  have  not  made  the  slightest  alteration  in  the 
character  and  condition  of  this  remarkable  people. 

The  Bedouins  are  usually  described  as  hospitable  and  courteous 
to  those  who  are  in  a  defenceless  state,  and  claim  their  protection  ; 
yet,  in  some  recent  instances,  a  love  of  gain  seemed  to  be  their 
ruling  principle ;  and  buckshish  (money)  the  most  effectual  agent 
in  gaining  their  services  and  respect.  The  caravans,  which  tra- 
verse the  desert  laden  with  merchandise,  and  such  travellers  as 
they  suppose  will  furnish  a  rich  booty,  are  deemed  lawful  prey. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  towns  are  composed  of  Arabs,  Jews,  and 
Banians,  or  Hindoo  merchants ;  who  are  all  engaged,  to  some  ex- 
tent, in  traffic.     The  first  are  regarded,  by  their  brethren  of  the 


424  ASIA. 

desert  as  a  degenerate  and  debased  race,  whom  they  scarcely  own 
as  belonging  to  the  same  nation  with  themselves.  The  people 
residing  on  many  parts  of  the  coast,  especially  of  the  Persian 
Gulf,  have  long  been  noted  pirates.  They  scruple  not  to  capture 
all  vessels  they  can  master ;  the  crews  of  which  they  generally 
destroy. 

The  practice  of  revenge,  for  real  or  supposed  injuries,  is  carried 
by  the  Arabs  to  the  greatest  height ;  and  individuals,  in  conse- 
quence, go  always  armed.  These  people  are  studiously  polite : 
when  two  Bedouins  meet,  they  shake  hands  many  times,  and  with 
numerous  and  peculiar  ceremonies.  Coolness,  command  of  tem- 
per, and  gravity  of  mien  and  deportment,  are  common,  and  are 
even  affected  by  children  at  an  early  age.  The  Arabs  are,  not- 
withstanding, more  social  in  their  habits  than  most  oriental  nations, 
and  in  the  towns,  the  people  resort  much  to  coffee-houses,  the  only 
public  places  known  in  the  East. 

The  Arabic  ranks  among  the  classic  languages  of  Asia.  It  is 
spoken  to  a  great  extent ;  and  a  number  of  distinguished  works 
have  been  produced  in  it. 

The  Arabs  were,  for  a  time,  the  most  learned  of  nations ;  and 
many  of  the  sciences  were  ardently  studied,  and  carried  to  a  high 
state  of  perfection  in  the  courts  of  the  Caliphs :  but,  owing  to  the 
downfall  of  the  Saracenic  empire,  and  the  bigotry  and  ignorance 
of  the  Arabian  nations  of  later  times,  the  learning  and  knowledge 
once  so  much  prized,  is  now  almost  unknown. 

Arabia  has  still  poets,  who  celebrate  the  exploits  of  the  sheiks 
and  warriors  ;  but  none  of  them  can  dispute  the  palm  with  the  an- 
cient bards  of  the  nation. 

The  Arabs  claim  to  be  descended  from  Ishmael,  the  son  of 
Abraham  and  Hagar ;  and  never  has  prophecy  received  a  more 
accurate  and  remarkable  fulfilment  than  in  the  prediction  portray- 
ing the  destiny  and  character  of  their  ancestor : — "  Behold,  I  will 
make  him  a  great  nation ;  he  will  be  a  wild  man :  his  hand  will 
be  against  every  man,  and  every  man's  hand  against  him :" — 
than  which,  a  more  marked  and  impressive  description  of  what  his 
posterity  are,  and  have  always  been,  could  not  be  given. 

Arabia  has  never  been  wholly  conquered.  Although  the  Arabs 
subdued  a  great  part  of  Africa  and  the  East,  and  carried  their 
arms  to  the  Atlas  and  the  Himmaleh,  to  the  Pyrenees  and  the  Cau- 
casus, they  have  never  lost  their  ancient  independence,  and  have 
never  been  conquered  in  their  turn. 

The  sandy  nature  of  the  country,  and  the  difficulty  of  obtain- 
ing water  to  any  extent,  are  almost  insuperable  obstacles  to  the 
progress  of  a  hostile  force.  The  most  extensive  inroad,  perhaps, 
ever  made  in  Arabia  by  a  foreign  power,  was  that  effected  by  the 

S76 


ARABIA.  425 

army  of  Mohamed  Ali,  in  1818,  from  Mecca  to  Deraia,  a  dis- 
tance of  500  miles. 

The  principal  states  of  Arabia  are  Mecca,  Yemen,  Muscat, 
and  the  territory  of  the  Wahabees. 

MECCA. 

The  Sheriffat  of  Mecca,  included  in  the  Hedjaz,  occupies  the 
chief  part  of  the  western  shore  of  the  Red  Sea.  This  is  the  holy 
land  of  the  Mahomedans,  and  contains  the  cities  of  Mecca  and 
Medina.  It  was  conquered  some  time  ago  by  the  Wahabees ;  but 
those  rude  warriors  being  driven  back  to  their  own  country  by 
the  pacha  of  Egypt,  this  state  is  now  included  in  his  dominions. 

Mecca,  celebrated  as  the  birth-place  of  Mahomed,  and  the  most 
holy  city  of  his  disciples,  is  situated  40  miles  inland  from  the  Red 
Sea.  It  is  entirely  supported  by  the  concourse  of  pilgrims  from 
every  part  of  the  Mahomedan  world.  The  chief  ornament  of 
Mecca  is  the  famous  temple,  in  the  interior  of  which  is  the  Kaaba, 
or  house  of  the  prophet,  a  plain  square  structure.  The  most 
sacred  relic  in  the  Kaaba  is  the  stone  said  to  have  been  brought  by 
the  angel  Gabriel  to  form  the  foundation  of  the  edifice. 

The  grand  ceremony  through  which  pilgrims  pass  is  that  of  going 
seven  times  round  the  Kaaba,  reciting  verses  and  psalms  in  honour 
of  God  and  the  prophet,  and  kissing  each  time  the  sacred  stone. 
They  are  then  conducted  to  the  well  of  Zemzem,  situated  in  the 
same  part  of  the  temple,  where  they  take  large  draughts,  and  un- 
dergo a  thorough  ablution  in  its  holy  waters.  Another  ceremony, 
considered  as  of  equal  virtue,  is  the  pilgrimage  to  Mount  Arafat, 
situated  about  30  miles  to  the  north  of  the  city. 

The  population  of  Mecca  was  formerly  estimated  at  100,000; 
but  is  now  reduced  to  16,000  or  18,000,  the  resort  of  pilgrims 
within  a  few  years  having  greatly  diminished.  Jidda,  on  the  Red 
Sea,  serves  as  the  port  of  Mecca.     Population,  7000. 

Medina,  176  miles  north  of  Mecca,  is  celebrated  as  containing 
the  tomb  of  Mahomed,  around  which  300  silver  lamps  are  kept 
continually  burning.  The  population  is  6000.  Yambo,  on  the 
Red  Sea,  is  the  port  of  Medina.     Population,  5000. 

YEMEN,  OR  SANA. 

The  Imamat  of  Yemen  or  Sana  comprises  the  south-western 
section  of  Arabia.  The  interior  of  this  state  consists  of  those  fer- 
tile valleys  and  hills,  richly  covered  with  aromatic  shrubs  and 
plants,  for  which  Yemen  is  famed.  The  Imam,  in  the  capacity 
of  priest  and  servant  of  Mahomed,  exercises  a  despotic  sway  over 
his  subjects,  who  are  estimated  to  amount  to  2,000,000.     His 

36  *  J  Y  577 


426  ASIA. 

military  force  is  about  5000  men  ;  and  his  annual  revenue  from 
300,000  to  400,000  dollars,  derived  chiefly  from  duties  on  coffee. 

Sana,  the  capital  of  Yemen,  is  a  handsome  city,  situated  128 
miles  inland  from  Mocha.  It  contains  from  15,000  to  25,000 
inhabitants.  Taas,  about  half  the  size  of  Sana,  and  nearer  the 
coast,  is  surrounded  by  a  rich  fertile  district. 

Mocha,  situated  not  far  from  the  southern  extremity  of  Arabia, 
is  the  principal  port  on  the  Red  Sea,  and  the  channel  through 
which  almost  all  the  foreign  intercourse  of  this  part  of  Arabia  is 
carried  on.  The  chief  article  of  export  is  coffee,  which  is  cele- 
brated as  the  finest  in  the  world.     Population,  5000. 

Aden,  to  the  eastward  of  the  Straits  of  Babelmandel,  was  for- 
merly the  emporium  of  this  part  of  the  world  ;  but  it  is  now  nearly 
all  in  ruins :  and  its  trade  in  gum-Arabic,  myrrh,  and  frankin- 
cense, is  divided  between  Mocha  and  Makulla.  Aden  has  been 
recently  taken  possession  of  by  the  East  India  Company,  which 
has  made  it  a  station  for  steam-vessels  passing  between  Bombay 
and  Suez.    The  town  is  now  garrisoned  by  British  troops. 

MUSCAT. 

The  Imamat  of  Muscat  comprises  a  great  part  of  Omon,  the 
most  eastern  division  of  Arabia.  The  sovereign  of  this  state  is 
more  enlightened  and  civilized  than  any  of  the  other  Arab  chiefs  : 
he  has  a  navy  comprising  several  fine  ships  of  war,  which  are 
navigated  in  a  scientific  manner.  His  subjects  are  good  sailors, 
and  possess  some  of  the  finest  native  trading  vessels  met  with  in 
the  eastern  seas.  A  treaty  of  commerce  was  concluded  between 
the  United  States  and  this  prince,  in  1835. 

All  the  ports  upon  the  adjacent  coast  are  tributary  to  the  Imam, 
as  are  also  the  islands  of  Zanzibar,  Monfia,  and  Pemba,  on  the 
east  coast  of  Africa  :  he  holds,  likewise,  the  islands  of  Kishm  and 
Ormus,  in  the  Persian  Gulf,  and  a  considerable  extent  of  the  Per- 
sian coast  around  Gomberoon,  besides  the  ports  of  Jask,  Choubar, 
and  Gwuttur,  in  Beloochistan.  The  population  subject  to  his  con- 
trol, is  estimated  at  near  2,000,000. 

Many  parts  of  Omon  are  eminently  fertile  and  luxuriant.  Late 
travellers  speak  of  the  well-cultivated  districts  in  terms  of  the 
highest  admiration. 

The  city  of  Muscat  is  a  general  depot  for  the  merchandise  of 
Persia,  Arabia,  and  India.  It  is  well  fortified,  and  surrounded  by 
a  strong  wall,  within  which  Arabs,  and  Banians,  or  Hindoo  mer- 
chants, only  are  permitted  to  reside :  all  others  must  remain  in 
mat-houses,  without  the  gates.  The  population,  including  that  of 
the  adjoining  town  of  Muttra,  is  rated  at  from  40,000  to  60,000. 


ARABIA.  427 

TERRITORY  OF  THE  WAHABEES. 

The  country  of  the  Wahabees  comprises  a  large  portion  of 
Nedsjed,  the  interior  division  of  Arabia.  It  has  been  generally 
considered  a  mountainous,  arid  region ;  but  the  numerous  hosts 
that  issued  from  it  in  the  early  part  of  the  present  century,  prove 
that  it  is  not  throughout  a  desert. 

The  power  of  the  Wahabees  originated  about  100  years  ago: 
after  carrying  their  victorious  arms  over  Lahsa,  part  of  Yemen, 
and  the  Hedjaz,  they  were  driven  back  to  their  original  haunts  by 
the  pacha  of  Egypt,  whose  army  captured  their  capital,  in  1818, 
and  forced  the  vanquished  to  make  a  humiliating  treaty.  The 
power  of  the  Wahabees  is  now  greatly  reduced.  Besides  Deraia, 
the  capital,  the  only  known  town,  of  any  importance,  is  Yemama, 
noted  as  the  birth-place  of  the  prophet  Mosellama,  the  most  cele- 
brated of  the  Arabian  prophets  before  Mahomed. 

HADRAMAUT. 

Hadramaut  stretches  along  the  Arabian  Sea  from  Yemen  to 
Omon.  It  comprises  the  petty  states  of  Makulla,  Keshin,  Seger, 
Morebat,  and  others,  all  of  which  are  imperfectly  known  to  Euro- 
peans. The  chief  of  Keshin,  besides  his  Arabian  territory,  is 
master  of  Socotra,  an  island  situated  about  300  miles  to  the  south- 
east. 

The  town  of  Makulla,  the  capital  of  the  little  state  of  that  name, 
lies  about  400  miles  north-east  from  the  Straits  of  Babelmandel. 
It  has  become,  since  the  decline  of  Aden,  the  principal  trading  port 
between  Mocha  and  Muscat,  and  is  visited  occasionally  by  Ameri- 
can vessels  for  supplies  of  provisions,  &c. 

LAHSA. 

Lahsa,  extending  along  the  western  shore  of  the  Persian  Gulf, 
is  noted  for  the  piracies  that  have  been  carried  on  by  the  inhabit- 
ants of  some  parts  of  its  coast.  Lahsa,  on  a  small  river  called  the 
Aftan,  with  Koneit  and  El  Khatif,  are  the  chief  towns  in  this  region : 
the  last  is  built  entirely  of  rock  salt. 

The  Bahrein  isles,  situated  a  short  distance  from  the  shores  of 
Lahsa,  are  famous  for  their  pearl  banks,  or  shallow  places  in  the 
sea,  which  yield  the  finest  pearls  in  the  world.  The  town  of  Me- 
dina, on  Bahrein,  the  chief  island,  contains  about  5000  inhabitants. 
It  has  originated  altogether  from  the  traffic  in  pearls,  the  produce 
of  the  adjacent  fisheries. 

At  the  head  of  the  Red  Sea,  in  one  of  the  most  desert  tracts  of 
this  desert  region,  rise  the  holy  mountains  of  Sinai  and  Horeb:  the 
former  is  rendered  memorable  as  the  spot  where  Moses  received 


428  ASIA. 

the  tables  of  the  law  from  the  hand  of  God,  and  the  latter  where 
the  Almighty  appeared  to  him  in  the  burning  bush. 

On  Mount  Sinai  is  the  convent  of  the  Holy  Saints,  now  in  the 
possession  of  the  Arabs,  and  that  of  St.  Catharine.  The  latter 
was  erected  600  years  ago,  and  is  at  present  inhabited  by  30  or 
40  Christian  monks.  The  building  is  large  and  strong,  120  feet 
in  length,  and  having  a  handsome  garden  attached  to  it.  The 
usual  entrance  to  the  convent  is  by  a  door  elevated  30  feet  from 
the  ground,  up  to  which  visiters  and  necessaries  for  the  inmates 
are  drawn  by  a  rope  with  a  basket  attached  to  it, — a  precaution 
rendered  necessary  by  the  depredations  of  the  Arabs. 

IDUMEA. 

About  80  or  100  miles  to  the  north-eastward  of  Mount  Sinai 
is  the  ancient  land  of  Edom  or  Idumea ;  in  early  ages  the  central 
point  to  which  came  the  caravans  from  the  interior  of  Arabia,  Per- 
sia and  India,  laden  with  all  the  most  precious  commodities  of 
the  east.  It  is  now  a  waste,  stony  desert,  entirely  without  a  settled, 
population,  and  in  the  precise  condition  long  ago  predicted  of  it, 
when  it  was  a  populous  and  flourishing  country.  "  Edom  shall 
be  a  desolate  wilderness;  there  shall  not  be  any  remaining  of  the 
house  of  Esau."  It  still  presents,  however,  some  interesting  monu- 
ments of  its  ancient  power  and  magnificence. 

Its  renowned  capital  Petra,  the  excavated  city,  the  site  of  which 
was  lost  and  unknown  to  the  civilized  world  for  upwards  of  1000 
years,  was  discovered  in  1812  by  the  traveller  Burckhardt,  and  has 
since  been  visited  by  several  Europeans  and  Americans.  The  city 
is  enclosed  within  a  vast  natural  amphitheatre  of  two  or  three  miles 
in  circumference,  and  encompassed  by  a  towering  rampart  com- 
posed of  rocky  mountains  500  or  600  feet  high.  Their  lofty  sides 
are  cut  down  smooth  and  perpendicular,  and  excavated  with  vast 
labour  into  splendid  palaces,  temples,  theatres,  triumphal  arches, 
dwellings  and  tombs,  enduring  as  the  mountains  out  of  which  they 
are  hewn,  and  apparently  as  fresh  as  if  the  work  of  a  generation 
scarcely  gone  by. 

The  whole  of  the  interior  area  of  the  city  is,  however,  a  waste 
of  ruins;  columns,  porticoes,  ranges  of  corridors,  &c.  lying  pros- 
trate together  in  undistinguishable  confusion.  The  architecture  is 
partly  in  the  Greek,  and  partly  in  the  Egyptian  style;  and  the 
whole  scene  is  perhaps  the  most  unique  and  extraordinary  in  the 
world.  This  ancient  and  remarkable  city,  once  the  centre  of  an 
extensive  commerce,  the  abode  of  wealth  and  magnificence,  and  of 
a  crowded  population,  is  now  lone  and  desolate,  without  an  inhab- 
itant ;  "  thorns  have  come  up  in  her  palaces,  and  nettles  and  bram- 
bles in  the  fortresses  thereof." 


ARABIA, 


Mahomedan  Pilgrims  kissing  the  Black  Stone  of  Mecca. 
One  of  the  moat  sacred  objects  in  the  eyes  of  Mahomedans,  is  the  famous  Black  Stone, 
believed  to  have  been  brought  from  heaven  by  the  ani;el  Gabriel,  and  deposiled  in  the  interior 
of  the  Kaaba.  A  number  of  steps  lead  down  to  the  spot  where  it  is  placed.  To  go  round  the 
Kaaba  seven  times,  kiss  this  stone  every  time,  and  sing  appropriate  hymns,  forms  an  important 
part  of  that  religious  service,  to  perform  which  thousands  of  miles  have  been  travelled. 


View  in  Mocha,  Arubia. 
Mocha,  situated  on  the  Red  Sea,  and  near  its  entrance,  has  long  been  the  chief  mart  for 
coffee  in  the  east.  It  has,  however,  declined,  since  the  principal  European  nations  have  been 
supplied  from  their  colonies.  The  town  stands  on  a  dry  sandy  plain,  over  which  hot  winds 
constantly  blow.  Its  white  washed  houses,  variegated  by  handsome  minarets  and  tombs,  make 
^  pleasing  appearance  from  the  sea. 


View  in  Moosa.  eighteen  miles  east  of  Mocha. 
Moosa  was  the  ancient  emporium  of  Yemen.    It  is  now  much  decayed,  and  has  lost   its 
former  importance.    Some  of  its  buildings,  the  relics  of  its  days  of  prosperity,  still  present  a 
fine  appearance. 

2  V*  581 


ASIA. 


Nakshi  Roustan.  Persia. 

Nakshi  Roastan  is  a  hill  thirty-five  miles  north  of  Shiraz,  and  about  900  feet  high.  It  pre- 
sents a  sleep  face  of  whitish  marble,  nearly  the  whole  of  which  is  covered  with  sculptured 
tombs,  supposed  to  have  been  the  burial-places  of  the  early  kings  of  Persia. 


View  of  Teheran,  the  Capital  of  the  Persian  Empire. 


i 


View  in  Ispahan,  Persia. 

Ispahan,  or  Spahawn,  was  once  the  capital  of  Persia,  and  one  of  the  most  splendid  cities  in 
the  East.  In  the  height  of  its  prosperity,  the  population  was  estimated  at  more  than  a  million, 
and  now,  according  to  the  largest  estimate,  not  above  a  fifth  part  of  that  number.  It  still  con- 
tains Borne  handsome  edifices,  combined,  as  is  usual  in  most  Asiatic  cities,  with  meanness  and 
wretchedness  in  the  streets,  and  in  the  dwellings  of  the  mass  of  the  people. 

538 


PERSIA.  429 


PERSIA. 


This  country  was  in  early  times  the  seat  of  one  of  the  most 
powerful  Asiatic  empires,  and  has  long  occupied  an  important 
place  in  the  history  of  the  world.  Although  abridged  of  its  ancient 
greatness,  it  still  presents  many  interesting  features.  The  limits 
of  Persia  have  varied  at  different  times,  and  were  formerly  more 
extensive  than  at  present,  including  the  countries  of  Balk,  Af- 
ghanistan, and  Beloochistan,  on  the  east,  all  which  are  now  sepa- 
rated ;  and  in  the  north-west,  some  districts  have  been  annexed  to 
Russia. 

The  boundaries  of  Persia  are  the  river  Kur,  the  Caspian  Sea, 
and  the  deserts  of  Khiva,  on  the  north ;  a  vast  sandy  desert  on 
the  east ;  the  Persian  Gulf  on  the  south ;  and  the  Euphrates  and 
Tigris  rivers,  and  the  mountains  of  Armenia,  on  the  west.  Extent, 
from  north  to  south,  about  850  miles,  and  from  east  to  west,  900. 
Area,  480,000  square  miles. 

Persia  is  bordered  on  the  north-west  and  west  by  the  mountains 
of  Armenia  and  Kurdistan ;  on  the  north  and  north-east  by  the 
Elborz  and  Paropamisan  mountains,  which  are  continued  eastward 
into  the  great  chain  of  the  Hindoo  Koo.  The  interior  consists  of 
an  immense  dry,  salt  plain,  and  at  least  two-thirds  of  the  country 
are  composed  of  naked  mountains,  arid  deserts,  salt  lakes,  and 
marshes  covered  with  jungle.  On  the  northern,  western,  and  east- 
ern frontiers,  are  large  rivers,  but  none  of  any  magnitude  traverse 
the  country.  The  streams  which  usually  descend  from  the  moun- 
tains are  lost  in  the  sand,  or  formed  into  lakes.  They  produce, 
however,  most  of  the  fertility  of  which  this  region  can  boast,  and, 
where  abundant,  render  the  plains  through  which  they  flow  beau- 
tiful and  luxuriant  in  a  high  degree. 

The  Kur,  Kizil  Ozen,  and  Attruck  rivers,  flow  into  the  Caspian 
Sea ;  and  the  Kerah  and  Karoon  are  tributary  to  the  Euphrates. 
The  Indian  and  Div  Rood  run  into  the  Persian  Gulf,  and  the  inte- 
rior stream  of  the  Bundmeer  into  the  Lake  of  Baktegaun.  The 
latter,  with  Lake  Ourmieh,  in  the  north-western  part  of  Persia,  are 
the  principal  lakes :  they  are  both  salt. 

The  provinces  on  the  Caspian,  watered  by  streams  from  the 
Elborz,  are  of  extraordinary  fertility,  but  the  air  is  humid  and  un- 
healthful.  The  centre  and  south  are  entirely  destitute  of  trees, 
but  gardens  are  cultivated  with  great  care,  and  the  fruits  are  excel- 
lent. The  wine  of  Shiraz  is  considered  superior  to  any  other  in 
Asia.  The  mulberry  in  the  northern  provinces  is  so  abundant  as 
to  render  silk  the  staple  produce  of  the  empire.  Other  productions 
are  wheat,  rice,  cotton,  tobacco,  indigo,  senna,  rhubarb,  opium, 


430  ASIA. 

saffron,  and  assafcetida.     The  fruits  are  of  peculiar  excellence; 
they  comprise  melons,  oranges,  figs,  almonds,  peaches,  and  apricots. 

The  most  considerable  mineral  production  is  salt.  There  are 
some  mines  of  iron,  copper,  silver,  and  turquoise  stones.  The 
principal  manufactures  are  beautiful  carpets,  shawls,  silks  ;  tapestry 
formed  of  silk  and  wool,  embellished  with  gold ;  arms,  sword- 
blades,  leather,  paper,  and  porcelain.  The  foreign  commerce,  which 
is  inconsiderable,  is  chiefly  in  the  hands  of  foreigners.  Bushire, 
on  the  Persian  Gulf,  is  the  principal  port :  its  commerce  is  mostly 
connected  with  that  of  Bussorah.  Some  trade  is  also  carried  on 
between  the  towns  on  the  Caspian  Sea  and  Astrachan.  The  main 
commercial  intercourse,  however,  of  Persia,  is  that  by  caravans, 
with  Turkey  on  one  side,  and  Tartary  and  India  on  the  other. 

The  Persians  are  Mahomedans  of  the  Sheah  sect,  or  of  the  fol- 
lowers of  Ali ;  and  are,  on  that  ground,  viewed  with  greater  abhor- 
rence by  the  Turks  than  even  Christians :  but  they  are  not  them- 
selves an  intolerant  people.  The  Turkomans,  Arabs,  and  Kurds, 
are,  however,  Sonnites.  Besides  these,  there  are  Soofees,  a  spe- 
cies of  philosophers,  who  profess  to  be  the  friends  of  all  mankind, 
and  of  every  religious  sect;  Parsees,  or  Guebres,  also  called  Fire- 
Worshippers,  because  they  venerate  fire  as  the  emblem  of  the 
Supreme  Being.  There  are  likewise  to  be  found  in  Persia,  Arme- 
nian and  Greek  Christians,  Jews,  &c. 

The  Persians  are  accounted  the  most  learned  people  of  the  East, 
and  poetry  and  the  sciences  may  be  considered  as  their  ruling  pas- 
sion. Their  chief  poets,  Hafiz,  Sadi,  and  Ferdusi,  have  displayed 
an  oriental  softness  and  luxuriance  of  imagery  which  have  been 
admired  even  in  European  translations.  They  are  also  the  most 
polite  of  the  oriental  nations,  and  surpass  all  others  in  the  skilful 
and  profuse  manner  in  which  they  administer  flattery.  Dissimu 
lation  is  carried  by  them  to  the  highest  pitch ;  lying  is  never  scru 
pled  at,  and  their  whole  conduct  is  a  train  of  fraud  and  artifice 

This  country  is  divided  into  the  provinces  of  Adzerbijan,  Ghi 
Ian,  Mazanderan,  Astrabad,  Irak-Ajemi,  Khorasan,  Fars,  Laris 
tan,  and  Kerman.  The  population  of  the  whole  is  probably 
about  8,000,000.  The  physical  character  of  the  Persians  is  fine, 
both  as  to  strength  and  beauty,  but  without  possessing  any  very 
marked  features.  So  many  migratory  nations  have  settled  in  the 
country,  that  it  retains  only  a  fragment  of  its  native  race.  The 
complexion,  according  to  the  climate,  varies  from  an  olive  tint  to 
a  deep  brown. 

Besides  the  Persians  proper,  who  are  Taujiks,  or  dwellers  in 
towns,  there  are  many  Turkomans  in  the  north-west,  Arabs  in  the 
south-west,  and  Kurds  on  the  western  frontier.  Armenians,  Loories, 
and  Jews,  are  also  met  with  in  different  parts  of  the  country.   The 


PERSIA.  431 

Turkomans  are  at  present  the  dominant  people ;  the  Shah,  or  sove- 
reign, being  himself  of  that  race. 

An  unhappy  circumstance  in  the  condition  of  Persia  consists  in 
the  numberless  hordes  of  robbers  by  which  the  country  is  ravaged. 
Her  fertile  plains  are  everywhere  intermingled  with  mountains  and 
deserts,  tenanted  by  these  rude  banditti.  Even  those  who  defend 
the  country  in  war,  frequently  plunder  it  during  peace. 

Persia,  though  a  warlike  kingdom,  has  scarcely  any  force  which 
can  be  considered  a  regular  army.  There  is  a  small  body  of 
royal  guards  called  Goolam,  and  10,000  or  12,000  cavalry  sta- 
tioned near  the  capital.  The  main  strength  of  the  country  has 
always  consisted  of  the  highland  tribes,  led  on  by  their  chiefs,  or 
khans.  The  number  of  warriors  which  can  be  called  out  on  an 
emergency,  is  estimated  at  150,000  or  200,000.  They  are  skil- 
ful horsemen,  personally  brave,  and  inured  to  hardships ;  but 
have  very  little  idea  of  discipline,  tactics,  or  the  art  of  war.  A 
body  of  12,000  men  was  organized  some  years  ago,  disciplined 
in  the  European  manner,  and  commanded  by  British  officers ;  but, 
being  of  late  neglected,  most  of  the  Europeans  have  left  the  service. 

The  government  of  Persia  is  among  the  most  rigid  of  the  east- 
ern despotisms.  The  Shah  exercises  an  uncontrolled  authority 
over  the  lives  and  fortunes  of  his  subjects,  whom  he  considers  as 
merely  his  slaves.  The  wandering  tribes  who  roam  over  many 
parts  of  the  empire,  are  governed  by  their  own  chiefs,  who,  how- 
ever, acknowledge  the  power  of  the  sovereign,  and  serve  him  with 
their  followers  in  war. 

The  Persians  surpass  in  pomp  all  the  eastern  nations.  The 
upper  ranks  are  splendid  in  their  attire:  gold,  silver,  and  precious 
stones,  are  lavished  by  them  on  their  robes,  and  also  on  their 
sabres ;  and  they  even  adorn  their  beards  with  jewels.  Their 
horses  are  objects  of  great  attention  ;  and  the  passion  for  obtaining 
those  of  a  superior  breed  is  carried  to  a  great  extent. 

Women  of  rank  never  appear  in  public  without  being  veiled : 
they  wrap  numerous  folds  of  silk  round  their  heads,  and  wear  long 
flowing  robes.  The  harems  of  the  great  are  filled,  as  over  all  the 
East,  by  negotiation  with  the  family  of  the  bride,  and  by  the  pur- 
chase of  Georgian  and  Circassian  slaves. 

Some  change  of  feeling  and  opinion  is  of  late  perceptible  in 
Persia.  Christian  missionaries  are  now  received  with  respect, 
and  listened  to  with  attention,  especially  by  the  higher  classes. 
Many  of  the  latter  have  adopted  the  European  style  of  dress;  and 
the  Shah  has  recently  decreed  that  none  shall  be  permitted  to 
approach  him,  unless  clothed  in  that  manner :  he  has  also  allowed 
the  inmates  of  his  seraglio  a  much  greater  degree  of  freedom  than 
they  formerly  enjoyed. 


432  ASIA. 

The  capital  of  Persia  is  Teheran,  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  loft- 
iest mountains  of  the  Elborz.  It  is  four  miles  in  circumference, 
strongly  fortified,  and  rather  a  camp  than  a  city.  It  has  no  grand 
edifices  except  the  ark,  combining  the  character  of  a  palace  and 
of  a  citadel.  In  summer  the  place  becomes  so  extremely  hot  and 
unhealthful,  that  all  leave  it  who  can.  The  king  with  the  troops, 
and  the  chiefs  with  their  attendants,  depart,  and  encamp  on  the 
plains  of  Sultania.  The  population  of  the  city  thus  varies  accord- 
ing to  the  season,  from  10,000  to  60,000. 

Of  all  the  cities  of  this  country,  Ispahan  stands  pre-eminent.  By 
the  caliphs  of  Bagdad  it  was  made  the  capital  of  Persia  ;  and  being 
placed  in  the  centre  of  the  empire,  surrounded  by  a  fertile  and 
beautiful  plain,  it  became  a  depot  of  the  inland  commerce  of  the 
East,  and  attained  an  extent  and  splendour  unrivalled  in  Western 
Asia.  It  was  destroyed  by  Timur,  but  restored  by  Shah  Abbas. 
Chardin  reckoned  that  in  his  time,  150  years  ago,  it  was  24  miles 
in  circuit,  and  contained  172  mosques,  48  colleges,  and  1800 
caravanseries.  In  1722,  Ispahan  was  taken  and  almost  destroyed 
by  the  Afghans,  and  the  later  sovereigns  having  preferred  a  north- 
ern residence,  no  exertions  have  been  made  for  its  restoration.  It 
is  still,  however,  a  great  city,  with  extensive  trade,  and  some  flour- 
ishing manufactures,  particularly  of  gold  brocade. 

Tabreez  or  Taurus,  the  chief  town  of  Adzerbijan,  was  200 
years  ago  one  of  the  most  distinguished  cities  of  Persia,  and  con- 
tained 500,000  inhabitants.  Since  that  time,  it  has  suffered  re- 
peatedly by  dreadful  earthquakes,  and  the  destructive  ravages  of 
often-recurring  warfare ;  and  has  lost  much  of  its  ancient  splen- 
dour.    Population,  80,000. 

Of  late  years  this  city  has  become  the  residence  of  the  heir 
apparent  to  the  Persian  throne.  He  has  encouraged  the  industry 
of  the  inhabitants,  embellished  the  public  buildings,  and  introduced 
many  European  arts  and  improvements.  Two  lithographic  presses 
are  now  employed  here  in  printing  the  works  of  the  most  esteemed 
Persian  writers  and  various  European  translations. 

Reshd,  the  capital  of  Ghilan,  and  near  the  shore  of  the  Caspian 
Sea,  is  described  as  a  flourishing  commercial  city,  having  60,000 
inhabitants.  Large  crops  of  wheat,  rice,  and  other  grain,  cover 
the  fields  in  its  vicinity :  but  the  staple  production  is  silk,  which  is 
either  worked  up  within  the  province,  or  exported  to  Astrachan. 
The  chief  of  the  other  towns  on  the  Caspian  are  Balfrush,  with 
20,000  inhabitants :  Amol,  with  about  the  same  population  ;  Fara- 
habad,  and  Astrabad,  the  capital  of  the  province  of  the  same  name, 
on  a  small  river,  a  few  miles  from  the  sea.  These  all  have  a 
share  of  the  commerce  of  the  Caspian. 

Meshed,  the  capital  of  Khorasan  is  a  large  and  fortified  city, 


PERSIA. 


Ruins  of  the  Palace  of  Persepolis,  Persia. 
The  ruins  of  the  Palace  at  Persepolis  are  all  that  remain  of  the  ancient  capital  of  Persia. 
The  latter  was  a  splendid  city,  and  of  great  extent.    It  was  destroyed,  according  to  some 
accounts,  by  Alexander  the  Great ;  according  to  others,  by  the  Arabs  in  the  seventh  century. 


Dress  of  the  Men  and  Women  of  Persia. 


Apricot. 

Persia  is  famous  for  its  fine  fruits,  which  grow  to  great  perfection,  with  but  little  attention  to 
their  cultivation.  It  is  the  original  country  of  the  peach  and  the  apricot.  The  grape,  plum, 
and  olive,  are  also  supposed  to  have  been  brought  at  first  from  thence. 

567 


ASIA. 


Dooraunee  Khan.  Afghans  of  the  lower  class. 

The  Dooraunies  are  Ihe  principal  tribe  of  the  Afghans.  Among  them  great  attention  is 
paid  to  birth,  and  particularly  to  antiquity  of  descent;  and  a  khan,  or  noble,  highly  born  and 
far  descended,  is  regarded  with  peculiar  respect. 

The  Afghans  usually  dress  in  a  sort  of  frock  reaching  below  the  knee,  and  loose  dark-coloured 
trowsers  ;  the  head  is  covered  with  a  black  silk  cap,  or  a  low  turban  ;  slippers  are  worn  on  the 
ieet  in  summer,  and  boots  which  lace  in  front  in  winter.  In  the  elevated  parts  of  the  country, 
where  the  cold  is  often  severe,  fur  or  skin  cloaks  are  used.  The  Afghans  generally  go  aimed 
with  a  matchlock  gun,  or,  when  it  can  be  procured,  an  English  musket 


Asiatic  Caravan 


PERSIA.  433 

built  upon  a  fine  plain,  and  distinguished  by  the  splendid  mosque 
and  tomb  of  the  Imam  Resa,  a  noted  Mussulman  saint,  which  is 
visited  by  20,000  pilgrims  every  year.  Though  much  decayed, 
Meshed  still  numbers  50,000  inhabitants. 

Shiraz,  the  capital  of  Fars,  has  long  been  one  of  the  boasts  of 
Persia,  from  the  beauty  of  its  environs,  and  the  polished  gaiety  of 
its  inhabitants.  It  has  been  the  favourite  seat  of  the  Persian  muses, 
and  near  it  are  still  to  be  found  the  tombs  of  Hafiz  and  Sadi,  the 
chief  of  the  national  poets.  Its  wines  are  the  most  celebrated  in 
the  East,  and  create  a  considerable  trade.  Thirty  miles  to  the 
north  of  Shiraz  are  found  the  remains  of  the  palace  of  Persepolis, 
one  of  the  most  magnificent  structures  which  art  ever  reared.  Its 
front  is  600  paces  in  length,  and  the  side  390.  The  architecture 
is  in  a  peculiar  style,  but  remarkable  for  correct  proportions  and 
beautiful  execution. 

South-west  from  Shiraz,  situated  on  the  coast  of  the  Persian 
Gulf,  is  Bushire,  the  emporium  of  the  foreign  trade  of  Persia.  This 
is  chiefly  with  India,  but  is  not  sufficient  to  render  the  town  either 
large  or  handsome. 

The  remaining  towns  of  this  country  worthy  of  notice  are  Ha- 
madan,  Yezd,  Kerman,  &c.  Of  these,  Hamadan  is  a  considerable 
town,  with  25,000  inhabitants.  The  Jews  suppose  that  queen 
Esther  and  Mordecai  are  buried  here,  and  accordingly  many  of 
them  repair  hither  in  pilgrimage  to  visit  their  tombs.  Yezd,  in 
the  south-west  part  of  Khorasan,  is  a  considerable  city,  still  flou- 
rishing as  a  seat  of  commerce,  and  of  a  valuable  silk  manufactory. 
Here  is  the  remnant,  amounting  to  about  16,000,  of  the  persecuted 
Guebres,  or  Parsees. 

Kerman,  the  capital  of  the  province  of  the  same  name,  was  one 
of  the  proudest  cities  of  the  empire,  and  a  great  emporium  of  trade 
and  commerce.  In  the  course  of  the  civil  wars  at  the  close  of  the 
last  century  it  was  nearly  destroyed,  and  has  but  partially  reco- 
vered. Its  manufacture  of  shawls  and  carpets  is  still  considerable. 
Population,  about  20,000. 

South  of  Kerman  is  Gomberoon,  near  the  entrance  of  the  Gulf 
of  Persia ;  it  was  formerly  a  great  commercial  port,  but  is  now 
much  decayed,  and  is  under  the  control  of  the  Imam  of  Muscat. 
Near  it  are  the  islands  of  Ormus,  Larak,  and  Kishm ;  the  latter  is 
tolerably  fertile,  and  contains  a  town  of  some  size ;  the  former, 
once  the  great  emporium  of  India  and  Persia,  and  whose  name 
was  a  proverb  for  wealth  and  splendour,  is  now  almost  desolate, 
and  its  magnificent  city  a  mass  of  ruins.  It  belongs  at  present  to 
Muscat,  whose  chief  is  making  some  exertions  to  restore  its  pros- 
perity. 

37  2Z  589 


434  ASIA. 


AFGHANISTAN. 

The  extensive  region  bounded  on  the  east  by  Hindoostan  and 
west  by  Persia,  was  once  incorporated  in  the  Mogul,  and  more  re- 
cently in  the  Persian,  empire;  but  has  been  separated  from  the 
latter  for  the  greater  part  of  the  last  hundred  years.  It  is  divided 
into  the  distinct  territories  of  Afghanistan,  and  Beloochistan :  the 
former  comprises  the  northern,  and  the  latter,  the  southern,  and 
least  extensive  portion. 

Together,  these  two  divisions  form  a  nearly  square  tract  of 
country,  800  miles  in  length,  and  700  in  breadth ;  inclosed  on  the 
north,  south,  and  east,  by  the  Hindoo  Koo  mountains,  the  Indus 
river,  and  the  Indian  Ocean ;  while  on  the  west,  it  is  separated 
from  Persia  by  a  nominal  line  drawn  along  the  eastern  limits  of 
Kerman  and  Khorasan. 

The  whole  region  presents  a  sort  of  compound  of  Persia  and 
Arabia :  on  the  north,  vast  mountains,  high  table-lands,  and  rapid 
rivers ;  on  the  south,  rugged,  rocky  hills,  with  dry  sandy  deserts. 
The  most  conspicuous  feature  is  the  grand  mountain  chain  of  the 
Hindoo  Koo,  whose  lofty  summits,  covered  with  perpetual  snow, 
rise  to  the  height  of  20,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean.  Se- 
veral subordinate  ranges  traverse  the  country :  of  these,  the  most 
important  are  the  Solimaun,  which  runs  parallel  to  the  banks  of 
the  Indus,  and  nearly  at  right  angles  with  the  Hindoo  Koo. 

The  kw  rivers  found  in  Afghanistan  are,  with  the  exception  of 
the  Indus,  of  inferior  magnitude,  and  mostly  tributaries  of  that 
great  stream.  They  are  but  little  suited  for  the  purposes  of  navi- 
gation, being  shallow,  rapid,  and  rocky.  The  Helmund  is  wholly 
within  this  territory,  and  has  no  connexion  with  the  ocean  ;  but, 
after  a  course  of  600  miles,  flows  into  the  salt  lake  of  Zurrah. 
The  Furrah-rood  is  a  small  stream  that  runs  into  the  same  lake. 
The  mountain  tracts  in  Beloochistan  give  rise  to  numerous  little 
rivers,  or  rather  torrents ;  nearly  dry  in  summer,  but  rapid  and 
desolating  in  winter. 

A  great  portion  of  this  vast  region  is  doomed  to  complete  and 
hopeless  barrenness,  produced  by  the  opposite  extremes  of  snow- 
covered  mountains,  and  sandy  plains.  Other  sections,  however, 
of  considerable  extent,  bear  an  opposite  character.  The  lower 
declivities  of  the  Hindoo  Koo,  and  the  high  plains  interspersed 
between  them,  are  often  equal  in  fertility  to  the  finest  parts  of 
Europe. 

Nor  are  these  natural  advantages  neglected  by  a  rough  but 
active  and  laborious  people.  Irrigation,  as  in  all  the  adjacent 
countries,  forms  the  most  important  and  arduous  part  of  husbandry. 


AFGHANISTAN.  435 

Wheat  and  barley  are  raised  on  the  high  grounds,  and  rice,  cotton, 
and  indigo  in  the  lower  districts.  Fruit  and  vegetables  are  pro- 
duced in  such  abundance,  that  their  cheapness  is  almost  unequal- 
led. Peaches,  apricots,  quinces,  and  grapes  of  the  finest  kinds 
abound ;  and  the  date,  fig,  banana,  guava,  &c.  are  met  with,  in 
the  warm,  sheltered  valleys.  Water-melons  grow  in  the  dry,  sandy 
districts  to  a  large  size,  without  cultivation. 

The  people  of  this  region  have  not  extended  their  industry  to 
manufactures,  except  those  of  coarser  fabric,  for  internal  con- 
sumption. They  carry  on,  however,  some  trade  with  the  neigh- 
bouring states;  and  the  country  is,  also,  a  thoroughfare  for  a 
considerable  commerce  between  Persia  and  India. 

This  traffic  is  performed  by  caravans,  which  employ  camels, 
where  the  route  is  practicable  for  them ;  but  in  the  rough  moun- 
tain roads  of  Afghanistan,  horses  and  ponies  are  substituted. 
Some  dried  fruits,  assafcetida,  madder,  and  a  few  furs,  form  the 
principal  articles  of  export.  In  return,  are  received  the  manufac- 
tures of  Persia  and  India,  and  even  those  of  Europe,  by  way  of 
Orenburg  and  Bokhara. 

Afghanistan  is  inhabited  by  various  fierce  and  warlike  tribes, 
of  which  the  most  important  are  the  Dooraunies  and  Ghiljies ; 
each  of  these  is  governed  by  its  own  chief  or  khan,  who  acknow- 
ledges a  sort  of  homage  to  the  head  of  the  nation,  of  which  they 
happen  to  form  a  part.  The  people  of  this  country  are  all  com- 
prised under  the  name  of  Afghans  or  Patans,  and  are  similar,  in 
many  respects,  to  the  Persians. 

They  form  two  great  classes — dwellers  in  tents,  and  dwellers 
in  houses.  The  former  occupy  themselves  with  war,  predatory 
excursions,  hunting,  and  raising  cattle;  they  have  a  strong  attach- 
ment to  a  pastoral  life,  and  seldom  or  never  quit  it ;  this  class 
comprise  more  than  one-half  the  population,  and  are  the  ruling 
people. 

The  dwellers  in  houses  are  called  Taujiks :  they  are  supposed 
to  be  the  original  inhabitants  of  the  country,  subdued  by  trie  pas- 
toral tribes,  who  regard  them  as  inferiors.  They  occupy  the 
towns  and  their  vicinity,  and  carry  on  those  trades  which  are  dis- 
dained by  the  dominant  race.  In  the  cities  and  towns  there  are 
many  Hindoos,  Persians,  Armenians,  and  Jews,  who  are  all,  gen- 
erally, engaged  in  traffic. 

The  Afghans,  who  form  the  main  body  of  the  population,  pre- 
sent in  their  aspect  and  character,  a  striking  contrast  to  the  Hin- 
doos, on  whom  they  immediately  border.  Their  high  and  even 
harsh  features,  sunburnt  countenances,  long  beards,  and  shaggy 
mantles  of  skins,  give  the  idea  of  a  much  ruder  and  more  unpol- 
ished people.     Under  this  rough  exterior,  however,  are  disclosed 

591 


436  ASIA. 

estimable  qualities,  which  advantageously  contrast  with  the  timid 
servility  of  the  Indian.  Their  martial  and  lofty  spirit,  their  bold 
and  simple  manners,  their  unbounded  hospitality,  and  the  general 
energy  and  independence  of  their  character,  render  them  on  the 
whole  a  superior  race.  These  people  have  a  tradition  among  them, 
that  they  are  descended  from  the  ancient  Jews ;  and  some  writers 
are  of  opinion  that  they  are,  probably,  the  remains  of  the  ten  lost 
tribes  of  Israel. 

The  established  religion  in  this  country  is  strict  Mahomedanism, 
of  the  Sonnite  or  orthodox  sect ;  yet  toleration  prevails  to  a  greater 
extent  than  is  usual  among  Mussulman  nations.  Afghanistan  has 
a  language  peculiar  to  itself,  called  the  Pooshtoo ;  it  bears  a  closer 
affinity  to  the  Persian  than  any  other,  nearly  one  half  of  the  terms 
belonging  to  it,  being  derived  from  that  source. 

A  taste  for  learning  is  common  among  the  Afghans ;  and  those 
who  are  considered  well  educated,  are,  in  consequence  of  the  near 
resemblance  of  the  languages,  generally  acquainted  with  Persian 
literature.  Afghanistan  has  not  produced  any  writers  who  can 
rival  in  fame  those  of  Persia  ;  and  the  poets  by  profession,  are  not 
to  be  compared  with  the  same  class  in  that  country ;  yet  a  consi- 
derable display  of  genius  often  appears  in  the  rude  verses  of  the 
chiefs  and  warriors,  who  celebrate  their  own  feelings  and  adven- 
tures. 

There  are  schools  established  in  every  little  town  and  village, 
and  even  in  the  encampments  of  the  pastoral  tribes,  so  that  the 
first  elements  of  knowledge  are  widely  diffused.  The  education, 
however,  is  of  that  limited  and  imperfect  kind,  common  in  Maho- 
medan  countries. 

Afghanistan,  at  present,  comprises  the  two  separate  states  of 
Cabul  and  Herat ;  the  former  was,  until  the  end  of  the  last  cen- 
tury, the  ruling  power  in  this  quarter,  and  comprised  the  whole  of 
Afghanistan  and  Beloochistan,  with  extensive  districts  in  Hindoos- 
tan  and  Tartary ;  but  since  the  death  of  the  late  Ahmed  Shah, 
Beloochistan  and  Herat  have  become  independent.  The  Indian 
provinces  have  been  conquered  by  the  Seiks,  and  the  Tartar  dis- 
tricts by  different  petty  princes. 

CABUL. 

The  kingdom  of  Cabul  occupies  more  than  three-fourths  of  the 
territory  of  Afghanistan,  and  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Tartary, 
south  by  Beloochistan,  east  by  Hindoostan,  and  west  by  Herat 
and  Persia.  It  comprises  an  area  of  270,000  square  miles,  and 
a  population  of  about  5,000,000. 

The  political  constitution  of  this  kingdom  exhibits  peculiarities 
which  distinguish  it  from  that  of  almost  every  other  Asiatic  mon- 


AFGHANISTAN.  437 

archy.  Instead  of  the  power  being  monopolized  by  the  sovereign, 
or  by  the  great  lords  or  khans,  it  admits  a  large  infusion  of  popu- 
lar elements.  In  every  tribe  there  is  a  jeerga  or  representative 
assembly,  without  whose  consent  the  khan  cannot  undertake  any- 
thing of  importance.  Among  the  people,  generally,  more  respect 
is  paid  to  the  decisions  of  that  body  than  to  those  of  the  khan,  or 
even  the  monarch. 

The  military  power  of  the  kingdom  is  composed  for  the  most 
part  of  the  stipulated  quota  of  warriors,  furnished  by  the  different 
tribes  who  fight  under  the  banners  of  their  own  chiefs.  The 
Gholaum  forms  a  body  immediately  under  the  control  of  the 
sovereign,  and  comprises  the  best-disciplined  and  most  efficient 
force  in  the  country  ;  though  brave  and  hardy,  these  troops,  like 
all  those  of  the  native  powers,  are  destitute  of  discipline,  and  their 
commanders  are  ignorant  of  tactics. 

This  kingdom  has  been  very  recently  conquered  by  an  Anglo- 
Indian  army,  and  may  now  be  considered  a  province  of  the  ori- 
ental empire  of  Great  Britain.  Fearful  of  the  intrigues  of  Russia 
in  this  quarter,  and  desirous  of  interposing  a  barrier  to  the  influ- 
ence of  that  enterprising  power,  the  East  India  Company  espoused 
the  cause  of  their  ally,  the  Shah  Soojah  ul  Moolk,  a  claimant  to 
the  crown  of  Cabul,  and  sent  in  support  of  his  pretensions,  in  the 
spring  of  1839,  a  strong  military  force  across  the  Indus.  In  June 
following,  the  supposed  impregnable  fortress  of  Ghiznee  was  cap- 
tured, an  event,  the  moral  influence  of  which  was  so  powerful,  that 
the  army  of  Dost  Mahommed,  the  opposing  chief,  13,000  strong, 
immediately,  with  the  exception  of  300  men,  joined  the  standard 
of  his  adversary,  who  in  a  few  weeks  afterwards  mounted  the 
throne. 

Cabul,  the  capital,  is  one  of  the  most  delightful  cities  in  the 
world,  being  situated  about  6000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea : 
it  enjoys  a  temperate  climate,  and  is  surrounded  by  an  extensive, 
finely  watered  plain.  The  soil  is  rather  deficient  in  grain,  but 
produces  a  profusion  of  the  most  delicious  fruits,  which  being  dried, 
are  exported  to  India,  and  other  countries.  Cabul  is  a  busy,  bust- 
ling city,  and  its  bazaar  of  2000  shops  is  considered  almost  without 
a  rival  in  the  East.     The  population  is  60,000. 

About  60  miles  south  of  Cabul  is  Ghiznee,  once  the  proud  capi- 
tal of  an  empire  reaching  from  the  Tigris  to  the  Ganges  :  its  splen- 
dour has  disappeared,  and  it  is  now  comprehended  within  very 
narrow  limits.  It  is,  however,  strongly  fortified,  and  was,  until 
its  late  capture  by  the  forces  of  the  East  India  Company,  considered 
impregnable. 

Peshawer,  once  the  capital  of  Cabul,  situated  in  a  fertile  plain, 
about  50  miles  west  of  the  Indus,  has  lately  much  declined;  and, 
37  *  a  z  *  E9S 


438  ASIA. 

instead  of  100,000  inhabitants,  which  it  numbered  25  years  ago, 
it  now  contains  scarcely  50,000.  The  city  is  rudely  built,  and  its 
few  good  public  edifices  are  greatly  decayed  ;  but  it  presents  a  pic- 
turesque aspect  from  the  varied  appearance  and  costume  of  the 
inhabitants  of  the  surrounding  mountains,  mingled  with  the  natives 
of  India,  Persia,  and  Tartary. 

Candahar  is  a  very  ancient  city,  the  foundation  of  which  is 
ascribed  to  Alexander  the  Great.  The  antiquity,  however,  belongs 
chiefly  to  the  site,  upon  which  new  towns  have  been  successively 
erected  by  different  conquerors  and  potentates.  It  is  regular  and 
well  built,  with  four  long  and  broad  bazaars ;  but  is  not  adorned 
with  those  magnificent  specimens  of  architecture,  which  generally 
mark  the  capitals  of  great  empires.     Population,  80,000. 

Bameean,  or  Boot  Bameean,  about  100  miles  north-west  from 
Cabul,  is  remarkable  for  its  two  gigantic  figures,  one  120  and  the 
other  60  feet  high,  cut  out  of  the  side  of  a  mountain  to  which  they 
are  attached.  The  city  consists  of  several  thousand  apartments 
excavated  from  the  solid  rock,  some  of  which,  from  their  dimen- 
sions, appear  to  have  been  intended  for  temples.  Bameean  is 
styled  the  Thebes  of  the  East,  and  is  a  place  of  great  antiquity.  At 
an  early  period  it  was  regarded  as  the  metropolis  of  the  sect  of 
Buddha,  and  is  represented  by  them  as  the  source  of  purity  and 
holiness. 

HERAT. 

Herat  is  a  small  kingdom  of  recent  formation,  occupying  the 
most  north-eastern  portion  of  Afghanistan.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
north  by  Tartary,  south  and  east  by  Cabul,  and  west  by  Persia ; 
comprising  an  area  of  about  70,000  square  miles,  and  a  popula- 
tion of  1,000,000  souls. 

The  country  comprising  the  territories  of  this  state,  is  an  ele- 
vated table-land,  lying  along  the  base  of  the  Hindoo  Koo  range. 
It  is  intersected  in  various  directions  by  the  branches  of  those  vast 
mountains,  and  watered  by  streams  which  descend  from  their  lofty 
sides.  Many  parts  of  the  country  are  distinguished  for  their  fer- 
tility, producing  wheat,  barley,  and  fruits  of  various  kinds.  This 
state  has  recently  formed  an  alliance  with  the  East  India  Com- 
pany, and  may  now  be  considered  as  a  mere  appendage  to  that 
great  power. 

Herat,  the  capital,  is  situated  on  a  small  river  of  the  same  name. 
It  is  the  centre  of  an  extensive  commerce,  and  has  numerous  manu- 
factories of  carpets,  sword-blades,  &c.  This  is  a  very  ancient 
city,  and  formerly  belonged  to  Persia.  It  was  in  the  zenith  of  its 
splendour  in  the  15th  and  16th  centuries.  The  Persian  historians 
are  diffuse  in  their  description  of  its  palaces,  caravansaries,  mosques, 

694 


BELOOCHISTAN.  439 

gardens,  &c.  Herat  was  besieged  a  short  time  since  by  a  strong 
Persian  army,  which  however  retired  without  effecting  any  thing 
of  importance.  The  country  in  the  vicinity  of  the  city  produces 
excellent  fruit,  and  roses  in  such  quantities,  that  Herat  obtained 
the  name  of  the  city  of  roses.  The  population  is  supposed  to  be 
about  60,000. 


BELOOCHISTAN. 

Beloochistan,  or  the  country  of  the  Belooches,  once  formed  a 
part  of  the  Afghan  empire,  but  became  independent  about  the  be- 
ginning of  the  present  century.  It  is  inhabited  by  a  number  of 
small,  fierce,  and  independent  tribes,  governed  by  their  own  khans, 
some  of  whom  are  subject  to  the  khan  or  sirdar  of  Kelat. 

This  country  extends  westward  from  Persia  along  the  shores  of 
the  Indian  Ocean :  it  is  about  600  miles  in  length,  and  from  200 
to  300  in  breadth,  comprising  an  area  of  not  less  than  200,000 
square  miles,  and  a  population  of  about  1,500,000.  It  contains 
several  subdivisions,  of  which  the  eastern  and  northern  are  Cutch- 
Gundava,  Sarawan,  Jhalawan,  and  Lus ;  Kohistan,  adjoining  Per- 
sia in  the  north  and  west ;  and  Mekran,  extending  along  the  sea- 
coast,  from  east  to  west,  500  miles. 

The  most  western  part  of  this  region  is  composed  of  a  desert  of 
fine  red  sand,  so  light  and  impalpable,  that  it  is  formed  by  the 
action  of  the  wind  into  waves  like  those  of  the  sea.  This  tract  is 
in  consequence  almost  impassable,  a  journey  across  it  requiring 
the  most  laborious  exertions  and  trying  privations. 

Eastern  Beloochistan  consists  for  the  most  part  of  a  huge  rocky 
ma^ss,  called  the  Solimaun  mountains,  intersected  by  valleys  that 
are  generally  arid  and  rocky,  the  streams  of  which  are  for  the 
most  part  destitute  of  water  during  the  summer  season,  but  in  win- 
ter are  filled  to  overflowing,  and  roll  through  their  rugged  beds 
with  headlong  rapidity.  There  are,  however,  here  and  there, 
patches  of  good  soil,  capable  of  cultivation,  where  some  grain, 
dates,  &c  are  raised. 

The  Belooches  are  warlike  and  predatory  in  their  habits:  the 
different  tribes  frequently  make  chepaos  or  raids  upon  each  other, 
burning  villages  and  carrying  off*  the  inhabitants  as  slaves.  Like 
many  of  the  rude  predatory  races,  they  treat  with  courtesy  and 
kindness  the  stranger  who  has,  or  purchases  a  claim  to  their  pro- 
tection :  the  guest  of  to-day,  however,  may  be  robbed  by  his  host 
to-morrow.  The  Brahooes  form  an  exception  in  manners  and 
disposition  to  the  other  tribes :  they  seem  to  have  been  the  original 
possessors  of  the  country,  and  are  mild,  innocent,  and  pastoral  in 


440  ASIA. 

their  nabits,  occupying  little  villages  secluded  in  the  bosom  of  the 
mountains. 

The  sea-coast  of  Beloochistan  is  very  abundant  in  fish  of  various 
kinds,  as  well  as  vast  stores  of  oysters,  and  turtles  of  large  size. 
On  these  the  people  live  almost  entirely,  as  they  did  in  the  days 
of  Alexander  the  Great.  The  historians  of  that  conqueror's  expe- 
ditions called  them  Ichthyophagi  (Fish-eaters),  and  no  change 
appears  to  have  taken  place  in  their  mode  of  existence  since  that 
time.  In  consequence  of  the  scarcity  of  pasture  along  the  shores 
of  this  region,  the  few  cattle  belonging  to  the  inhabitants  are  fed 
as  in  many  parts  of  Arabia,  on  fish  and  dates. 

The  towns  in  Beloochistan  are  but  few  and  unimportant.  Kelat 
is  the  chief  city,  and  may  be  considered  the  capital :  it  contains 
about  20,000  inhabitants,  and  stands  on  ground  elevated  8000  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  is  the  residence  of  a  khan  or  sirdar, 
who  claims  sovereignty  over  a  great  part  of  the  country,  though 
his  real  power  is  nearly  confined  to  the  district  immediately  adjoin- 
ing. The  town  enjoys  the  benefit  of  a  considerable  inland  trade. 
It  is  subject  in  winter  to  such  intense  cold,  that  the  khan  and  the 
principal  chiefs  descend  and  spend  the  severe  weather  in  a  lower 
and  warmer  region. 

Gundava,  with  16,000  inhabitants,  is  the  next  town  of  import- 
ance to  Kelat :  it  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  the  most  fertile,  best 
cultivated,  and  populous  districts  in  Beloochistan. 

Along  the  coasts  are  the  small  ports  of  Gwuttur,  Choubar,  and 
Jask,  possessing  some  trade,  subject  or  tributary  to  the  Imam  of 
Muscat.  Kedje,  reckoned  the  capital  of  Mekran,  is  a  considera- 
ble town,  in  a  strong  situation,  the  chief  medium  between  the  sea- 
coast  and  the  interior  countries.  It  is  still  held  by  the  khan  of 
Kelat,  who  has  scarcely  any  other  hold  upon  this  country.  Bun- 
poor  is  a  small  fortified  town  near  the  frontier  of  Persia. 


KAFFERISTAN. 


North  of  Afghanistan,  is  the  country  called  Kafferistan  ;  it  is 
an  Alpine  region,  composed  of  snowy  mountains,  and  small  but 
fertile  valleys,  in  which  feed  numerous  flocks  of  sheep  and  cattle, 
while  the  hills  are  covered  with  goats.  The  inhabitants  are  de- 
nominated by  their  Mahomedan  neighbours,  Kaffers,  or  infidels, 
whence  the  name  of  the  country  is  derived.  They  are  also  known 
by  the  name  of  the  Siah-Poosh. 

They  believe  in  one  God,  but  venerate  numerous  idols  of  stone 
or  wood,  which  represent  great  men  deceased :  they  have  solemn 


TARTARY.  441 

sacrifices  and  long  prayers,  not  failing  to  supplicate  for  the  extir 
pation  of  the  Mussulmans,  whom  they  regard  with  invincible 
aversion. 

The  Mahornedan  nations  are  those  with  whom  they  are  most 
habitually  at  war.  When  pursued,  they  unbend  their  bows,  and 
use  them  as  leaping-poles,  by  which  they  bound  with  the  utmost 
agility  from  rock  to  rock. 

The  Afghans  and  others  have  sometimes  confederated  to  make 
an  exterminating  invasion  of  their  territory,  and  have  met  in  the 
midst  of  it ;  but  have  been  obliged,  by  the  harassing  and  destruc- 
tive mode  of  warfare  practised  by  the  Kaffers,  to  abandon  the  en- 
terprise. When  taken  apart  from  their  warlike  propensities,  these 
people  are  a  kind-hearted,  social,  and  joyous  race.  They  are  all 
remarkable  for  fair  and  beautiful  complexions.  The  women  are 
prized  by  the  Afghan  princes,  as  inmates  of  their  harems,  and 
are  considered  to  be  as  handsome  as  the  Circassians.  A  few  in- 
dividuals of  this  nation,  seen  by  English  travellers  in  Cabul,  were 
found  to  be  as  light-skinned  as  any  Europeans. 


TARTARY. 

Tartary  is  an  immense  region,  occupying  almost  all  the  cen- 
tral part  of  Asia.  It  extends  from  the  Caspian  Sea  to  the  Pacific 
Ocean ;  having  Siberia  on  the  north,  and  China,  Thibet,  Hindoos- 
tan,  Cabul,  and  Persia,  on  the  south.  Length  4000  miles  :  breadth, 
from  1000  to  1400  square  miles.  Area,  near  4,000,000  square 
miles. 

The  predominant  feature  of  this  great  territory  is  that  of  plains 
almost  boundless  in  extent,  covered  with  herbage  more  or  less 
abundant,  and  occupied  by  wandering  pastoral  tribes,  whose  camps, 
like  moving  cities,  pass  continually  over  its  surface. 

The  principal  mountains  of  this  division  of  Asia  are  the  Altay, 
on  the  north ;  the  Kuen-lun,  and  Hindoo  Koo  on  the  south ;  and 
the  Thian  chan,  and  Beloor  chains  in  the  centre.  With  the  ex- 
ception of  the  last-mentioned,  they  all  extend,  in  nearly  parallel 
ranges,  from  east  to  west,  and  are  supposed  to  be  elevated  from 
12,000  to  20,000  feet  in  height. 

Many  of  the  rivers  in  this  region  expand  into  interior  seas  and 
lakes.  Of  these,  in  the  west  are  the  Amoo,  or  Oxus,  and  the  Sir, 
or  Sihon  ;  both  of  which  flow  into  the  Sea  of  Aral.  In  Central 
Tartary,  the  Cashgar  empties  into  Lop  Nor;  and  the  Elah,  and 
other  rivers,  into  Lake  Balcash.  The  great  streams  of  the  Irtysh, 
the  Obe,  the  Yenisei,  and  the  Selinga,  although  they  have  their 
origin  in  this  region,  soon  break  the  northern  barrier,  and  roll 

597 


442  ASIA. 

through  Siberia  to  the  ocean.  Eastern  Tartary  is  watered  by  the 
Amoor,  which  falls  into  the  channel  of  Tartary,  which  separates 
the  island  of  Seghalien  from  the  continent. 

There  are  several  lakes  in  Tartary ;  of  which  the  most  import- 
ant are  salt,  like  the  ocean.  The  lake,  or  sea  of  Aral  is,  next  to 
the  Caspian,  the  largest  inland  body  of  water  in  the  eastern  con- 
tinent ;  being  240  miles  in  length.  It  is  encircled  by  a  sandy 
desert,  almost  destitute  of  inhabitants,  and  is  said  to  contain  great 
numbers  of  seals  and  sturgeons.  The  lakes  Lop,  Balcash,  Zaizan, 
&c,  are  but  little  known,  and  are  of  inferior  dimensions. 

In  the  central  regions  of  Tartary,  a  principal  feature  is  the  great 
desert  of  Gobi,  or  Shamo,  which  extends  almost  wholly  across  it, 
and  reaches  about  2000  miles  from  south-west  to  north-east,  sepa- 
rating, like  a  vast  inland  sea,  the  countries  upon  which  it  borders. 
The  surface  of  the  desert  is  described  as  covered  with  short  and 
thin  grass,  which,  owing  perhaps  to  the  saline  qualities  of  the  soil, 
maintains  a  greater  number  of  cattle  than  could  have  been  sup- 
posed. There  is,  indeed,  a  considerable  number  of  springs  and 
lakes ;  but  the  water  is  so  brackish  as  to  be  scarcely  palatable. 

The  chief  divisions  of  this  great  region  are  Independent  Tartary, 
and  Chinese  Tartary.  The  former  is  occupied,  for  the  most  part, 
by  various  independent  states ;  while  the  latter  is  inhabited  almost 
wholly  by  a  number  of  rude  roving  tribes,  chiefly  pastoral  in  their 
habits,  and  subject  to  the  government  of  China.  The  population 
of  a  country  so  imperfectly  known,  cannot  be  stated  with  any 
degree  of  certainty ;  it  has,  however,  been  reckoned  at  from 
15,000,000  to  20,000,000  individuals. 

Tartary,  with  some  local  exceptions,  is  a  poor  country,  scarcely 
affording  to  its  widely-spread  population  the  common  necessaries 
of  life.  Extensive  conquest  no  longer  enriches  its  warlike  clans ; 
but  the  plunder  of  the  caravans,  or  the  booty  swept  together  in 
extensive  marauding  expeditions,  forms  still  the  chief  source  of 
wealth  to  its  petty  chiefs  and  sovereigns. 

In  some  favoured  districts,  there  are  stationary  inhabitants,  who 
cultivate  the  ground ;  but  the  general  aspect  of  Tartary  is  that  of 
a  pastoral  region. 

The  horse  forms  the  wealth  and  strength  of  the  country. 
Though  inferior  in  elegance  and  speed  to  the  Arabian,  yet  the 
Tartar  horse  possesses  the  power  of  performing  immense  journeys, 
without  pause  or  fatigue;  and,  by  this  faculty,  wears  out  in  the 
end  their  swifler  adversaries.  These  animals  are  in  great  request 
for  the  cavalry  of  the  neighbouring  states;  and  are  sent  in  con- 
siderable numbers  every  year  to  Persia  and  India. 

The  other  quadrupeds  of  this  country  are  the  domestic  ox, 
camel,  goat,  and  fat-rumped  sheep ;  one  species  of  which  is  re* 


T  A  R  T  A  R  Y .  443 

markable  for  having  sometimes  four,  five,  and  even  six  horns. 
In  the  south,  are  the  yak,  or  Tartar  ox,  the  musk  deer  of  Thibet, 
and  the  Tartarian  roe  or  deer,  noted  for  being  destitute  of  a  tail. 
In  the  northern  districts,  various  fur-bearing  animals,  similar  to 
those  of  Siberia,  are  found. 

The  Mongolian  horse  inhabits,  in  troops  of  20  or  100  indivi- 
duals, the  great  desert  of  Cobi.  It  runs  with  extraordinary  swift- 
ness, and  resembles  a  mule  in  appearance.  The  Tartars  hunt 
them  for  their  flesh,  but  have  never  succeeded  in  taming  them. 

The  vegetable  productions  cultivated  in  Tartary,  do  not  mate- 
rially differ  from  those  of  Europe ;  in  the  southern  and  middle 
tracts  are  raised,  wheat,  barley,  and  millet;  while  the  ruder  dis- 
tricts, particularly  of  Mantchooria,  scarcely  yield  any  grain,  except 
oats.  On  the  declivities  of  the  Altay  mountains  are  found  the  rhu- 
barb, so  useful  as  a  medicine,  and  the  ginseng,  which,  though  it  has 
never  been  valued  among  us,  is,  in  China  and  Tartary,  held  of 
sovereign  virtue. 

Manufactures  cannot  be  said  to  have  any  national  existence  in 
this  country,  though  the  women  produce  some  coarse  fabrics  for 
family  use.  Of  these  the  principal  are,  felt  for  tents,  coarse  wool- 
lens, and  skins,  particularly  of  sheep,  variously  prepared. 

Commerce,  over  this  vast  region,  is  carried  on  by  means  of 
caravans,  formed  of  camels  and  horses.  These  wide,  open  plains 
have,  in  all  ages,  formed  a  route  of  communication  between  East- 
ern and  Western,  and  of  late  between  Northern  and  Southern 
Asia.  Notwithstanding  the  multiplied  obstacles  and  impediments 
of  the  journey,  caravans  proceeding  in  this  direction  have  always 
exchanged  the  products  of  Persia  and  Hindoostan  for  those  of 
China.  They  travel  in  large  bodies,  well  armed,  and  purchase 
the  protection  of  the  princes  through  whose  territories  they  pass. 
The  Russians  have  begun  to  send  annual  caravans  from  Orenburg 
to  Bokhara;  and  these,  it  is  said,  consist,  often,  of  from  15,000 
to  30,000  men,  horses  and  camels.  They  frequent,  also,  the  fairs 
of  Yarkand  arid  Thibet. 

The  Mongols  and  the  Turks,  the  two  leading  races  who  inhabit 
this  immense  region,  are  distinguished  by  numerous  peculiarities 
from  each  other.  The  Mongols  are  of  a  yellow  complexion,  with 
small,  keen  black  eyes  pointing  towards  the  nose.  Their  visage 
is  broad  and  flat,  with  high  cheek-bones,  and  thick  lips ;  in  person 
they  are  spare,  muscular,  and  active.  The  Kalmucks,  Kalkas, 
Eluths,  and  Buraits,  are  the  chief  branches  of  the  great  Mongol 
family. 

The  Turks,  celebrated  for  their  early  conquest  of  Persia,  and 
for  their  possession  of  Constantinople,  are  a  handsomer  race. 
They  have  short  and  stout  persons,  small  but  not  twisted  eyes, 


444  ASIA. 

black  hair,  and  a  clear,  ruddy  complexion.  The  principal  divi- 
sions of  this  race  are,  the  Usbecks,  the  Turkomans,  the  Kirguis,  &c 

The  Mantchoos,  distinguished  as  the  ruling  race  in  China,  are 
of  a  fair  complexion,  short  and  robust  in  body,  and  similar  in  ap- 
pearance to  the  Tungouses.  Although  these  races  vary  in  their 
aspect,  yet  the  same  wandering,  pastoral  habits,  and  the  division 
into  tribes,  unite  in  fixing  a  similar  name  and  character  on  all  the 
nations  who  inhabit  these  extensive  regions.  The  people  of  Mon- 
golia and  Soongaria,  or  the  Mongols  and  Kalmucks,  are  alone 
considered  by  some  to  be  the  true  Tartars,  and  that  the  term  is 
inapplicable  to  the  other  races. 

The  favourite  food  of  the  Tartars  is  horse-flesh,  so  repugnant 
to  the  taste  of  all  other  nations.  Horses,  there,  as  oxen  with  us, 
are  regularly  fattened  for  the  tables  of  the  rich.  To  the  same 
animal  they  are,  likewise,  indebted  for  their  national  and  favourite 
beverage — the  milk  of  the  mare,  fermented  into  an  intoxicating 
drink,  called  koumiss.  The  Tartars  also  use  bousa,  a  thin,  acid 
liquor  made  from  grain,  and  which  is,  likewise,  much  drunk  in 
Arabia  and  Northern  Africa. 

Two  systems  of  religion  divide  Tartary,  and  are  professed  with 
rigid  zeal  through  different  portions.  All  its  eastern  regions  ac- 
knowledge the  Shaman  doctrines,  and  the  supremacy  of  the  Grand 
Lama ;  while  the  countries  of  Independent  Tartary  and  Little 
Bucharia  have  remained  devoted  to  the  Sonnite,  or  strictest  sect 
of  the  Mussulman  creed,  for  upwards  of  a  thousand  years. 

Though  there  is  some  attention  paid  to  learning  in  Tartary,  yet 
its  particular  character  and  condition  are  little  known  to  Europeans. 
In  all  the  Mahomedan  states,  some  of  the  first  elements  of  know- 
ledge are  widely  diffused  ;  and  the  principal  cities  contain  colleges 
for  instruction  in  the  few  sciences  of  which  the  precepts  of  the  pre- 
dominant religion  permit  the  study  and  pursuit. 

The  regular  abode  of  all  the  pastoral  tribes,  are  tents,  framed 
of  wicker-work,  and  covered  with  felt ;  they  are  often  large  and 
lofty,  and  being  placed  on  wagons,  when  conveyed  from  place  to 
place,  suggest  the  idea  of  a  moving  city.  A  camp,  or  onool,  consists 
of  from  twenty  to  fifty  tents.  The  chief  towns,  &c.  are  decorated 
with  handsome  edifices,  after  the  Persian  model,  but  none  have 
attained  any  great  celebrity.  The  national  head-dress  is  a  large 
white  turban,  wound  round  a  calpack  or  pointed  cap.  Boots  are 
worn  by  all  classes,  and  by  both  sexes  ;  the  women  plait  their  hair 
into  a  long  queue,  like  the  Chinese,  and  are  fond  of  gold  and  silver 
ornaments. 

The  Scythians  of  the  ancient  world,  the  Tartars  of  modern 
times,  have  maintained  in  all  ages  an  unchanged  character.  In 
war,  their  name  has  always  been   memorable.     The  scourge  oi 

600 


TARTARY.  445 

God  and  the  terror  of  mankind,  are  the  appellations  by  which 
they  are  known  to  the  neighbouring  nations.  Jenghis  Khan, 
Tamerlane  or  Timour,  and  other  Tartar  conquerers,  have,  at  differ- 
ent periods,  nearly  overrun  the  whole  of  Asia,  and  the  eastern  part 
of  Europe. 

The  military  forces  of  the  Tartar  states  and  tribes  consist  of 
cavalry,  which,  for  hardihood,  endurance  of  fatigue,  and  even  va- 
lour, are  scarcely  equalled  in  the  world.  They  are,  however, 
destitute  of  any  thing  like  the  organization  and  discipline  of  Eu- 
ropean troops,  and  in  an  encounter  with  them  would,  most  proba- 
bly, be  shorn  of  their  ancient  renown. 

The  Tartars  are  a  bold  and  energetic  race,  yet  they  are  go- 
verned by  a  despotism  as  complete  as  that  of  any  Eastern  nation. 
Although  the  chiefs  are,  in  many  instances,  chosen  by  the  body 
of  the  people,  yet  they  are  always  invested  with  absolute  power. 
The  tribes  under  the  Chinese  dominion  are  ruled  with  mildness 
and  beneficence.  The  government  checks  the  internal  contests 
and  predatory  excursions  of  the  pastoral  tribes,  and  seeks  to  pro- 
mote order  and  industry. 


INDEPENDENT  TARTARY,  OR  TURKISTAN. 

Independent  Tartary,  or  Turkistan,  though  renowned  from 
the  earliest  ages,  and  the  scene  of  important  historical  events,  is 
but  imperfectly  known  at  the  present  day.  It  stretches  eastward 
from  the  Caspian  Sea  to  the  Beloor  mountains,  and  from  the  Ural 
river  to  the  Irtysh.  On  the  north,  it  is  bounded  by  Siberia,  and 
on  the  south  by  Persia  and  Cabul.  Length,  1400  miles;  breadth, 
800.    Area,  about  1,000,000  square  miles.    Population,  6,500,000. 

The  chief  divisions  of  this  part  of  Asia  are  the  territories  occu- 
pied by  the  Kirguis  hordes  in  the  north ;  those  of  the  Turcomans, 
or  Turcomania,  in  the  west ;  and  the  states  of  Khokan,  Khiva, 
Bokhara,  and  Koondooz,  extending  over  the  central,  eastern,  and 
southern  parts  of  the  country.  The  four  last  are,  for  the  most 
part,  fertile  productive  districts,  separated  from  each  other,  and 
surrounded  on  nearly  all  sides  by  arid  sandy  deserts.  They  form 
the  region  often  styled  Usbeck-Turkistan,  from  the  Usbecks,  a  rude 
warlike  race,  who  are  the  dominant  and  ruling  people. 

GREAT  BUCHARIA,  OR  BOKHARA. 

Bokhara   forms  a  fertile  and  productive  territory,  extending 

about  200  miles  along  the  northern  bank  of  the  Amoo.     The 

population  is  reckoned  at  2,000,000 ;  of  which  a  great  proportion 

consists  of  fixed  inhabitants,  cultivating  the  ground,  or  inhabiting 

38  3A  601 


446  ASIA. 

towns.  The  bulk  of  these,  over  all  Independent  Tartary,  as  well 
as  Cashgar  and  Cabul,  consists  of  a  race  called  Taujiks,  appa- 
rently descended  from  an  original  native  people,  reduced  to  sub- 
jection by  the  conquering  Usbeck  tribes,  who  at  present  bear 
sway ;  and  the  name  is  now  generally  applied  to  all  who  have 
adopted  the  same  peaceful  and  industrious  habits.  The  military 
force  of  the  kingdom  consists  of  20,000  horse  and  4000  infantry, 
besides  about  50,000  militia. 

The  sovereign  of  Bokhara  has  the  title  of  Prince  of  the  Be- 
lievers, and  his  subjects  are  considered  the  most  rigid  in  their 
religious  observances,  of  all  the  Mussulman  nations.  The  country 
is  well  governed,  peaceful,  and  flourishing.  Cultivation  is  only 
limited  by  the  want  of  water,  and  by  the  naked  character  of  the 
vast  plains  which  inclose  Bokhara.  A  considerable  inland  trade 
is  carried  on  with  India,  Persia,  and,  above  all,  with  Russia.  From 
Astrachan,  two  annual  caravans  come  by  way  of  Orenburg,  each 
accompanied  by  4000  or  5000  camels.  The  imports  are  metals 
of  various  kinds,  arms,  cutlery,  cloths,  and  other  European  manu- 
factures ;  the  returns  are  in  silk,  cotton,  hides,  rubies,  and  tur- 
quoises. 

The  city  of  Bokhara  contains  80,000  inhabitants,  of  whom 
8000  are  Jews.  As  usual  in  Asiatic  cities,  the  habitations  of  the 
ordinary  citizens  are  poor ;  but  there  are  a  number  of  mosques, 
and  madresses,  or  colleges,  handsomely  built  of  stone,  each  of 
which  is  attended  by  from  40  to  300  students.  To  every  ma- 
dresse  there  is  a  lecturer ;  and  these,  with  the  students,  are  sup- 
ported by  funds  consisting  chiefly  in  the  rent  of  lands  or  houses, 
appropriated  to  that  purpose  by  Mahomedan  zeal  and  charity. 

About  200  miles  to  the  east  of  Bokhara  is  Samarcand.  Its 
walls  still  inclose  a  circuit  of  forty-eight  miles.  The  beauty  of  its 
environs,  and  the  delicacy  of  its  fruits,  are  still  extolled  in  the  same 
lofty  terms  which  were  used  by  the  writers  of  the  middle  ages. 
This  renowned  capital  of  Asia  is  now,  however,  little  better  than 
a  mass  of  ruins. 

Balk,  the  capital  of  the  ancient  Bactria,  and  the  rival  of  Nine- 
veh and  Babylon,  possesses  in  Asia  the  fame  of  almost  unknown 
antiquity.  It  is  commonly  called,  in  the  East,  the  mother  of  cities ; 
and  the  inhabitants  have  a  tradition  that  it  was  founded  by  Adam. 
It  retains,  however,  a  mere  shadow  of  its  ancient  grandeur.  Only 
one  corner  of  the  wide  circuit  which  its  walls  inclose  is  now  inhab- 
ited, and  does  not  contain  more  than  2000  souls. 

KHOKAN. 

This  khanat  extends  to  the  northward  of  Bokhara,  and  along 
the  eastern  boundary  of  Turkistan.     Situated  on  both  sides  of  the 


TARTARY.  447 

Sihon  or  Sir  river,  its  fields  and  meadows  are  fertilized  by  the 
waters  of  that  stream.  This  state  is  known  to  Europeans  by  re- 
port only,  but  is  said  to  be  a  fine  productive  district,  similar  in  cul- 
tivation and  improvement  to  Bokhara,  but  inferior  in  area  and 
population.     The  inhabitants  are  estimated  at  1,500,000. 

Khokan,  of  modern  origin,  and  recently  made  the  capital,  has 
risen  from  a  small  village  to  a  city  of  60,000  inhabitants,  with 
200  mosques.  It  lies  in  a  fruitful  plain,  watered  by  two  small 
rivers.  Khojend,  the  ancient  capital,  though  decayed,  is  still  more 
than  half  the  size  of  Khokan.  Its  situation  on  the  Sihon  is  de- 
scribed as  truly  delightful,  and  its  inhabitants  as  the  most  learned 
and  polite  of  any  in  this  part  of  Tartary. 

Tashkent  is  an  ancient  city,  still  very  flourishing,  and  estimated 
to  contain  100,000  inhabitants,  with  320  mosques.  North  of 
Tashkent,  and  on  the  banks  of  the  Sihon,  is  Tounkat,  once  cele- 
brated for  its  schools  and  learned  men,  and  for  its  fine  situation  ; 
it  being  said  of  it,  that  God  never  made  a  more  delicious  dwelling 
than  Tounkat. 

KHIVA. 

The  khanat  of  Khiva  is  situated  on  the  lower  Amoo,  and  sepa- 
rated by  a  wide  interval  of  desert  from  that  of  Bokhara.  The  cul- 
tivated part  of  this  state  extends  less  than  200  miles  in  length, 
and  50  in  its  utmost  breadth,  along  the  banks  of  the  river.  The 
canals  derived  from  that  stream  are  the  chief  means  by  which 
cultivation  is  produced.  To  Khiva,  also,  is  loosely  attached  the 
roving  population  of  those  immense  deserts  which,  on  every  side, 
insulate  it  from  the  civilized  world ;  from  Persia,  from  Cabul,  and 
from  Bokhara. 

The  population  of  the  whole  territory  has  been  reckoned  at 
1,000,000  ;  consisting,  besides  Khivans,  of  Karakalpaks,  Aralians, 
and  Turcomans,  the  general  name  for  whom  is  Urgauntshi. 
About  a  third  part  only  of  the  people  of  these  races  are  fixed  and 
stationary  in  their  habits ;  the  remainder  comprises  various  wan- 
dering pastoral  and  predatory  tribes,  who  are  principally  employed 
in  desolating  the  Persian  province  of  Khorasan.  In  their  plun- 
dering expeditions,  they  not  only  carry  off  every  thing  valuable, 
but  also  the  inhabitants,  themselves,  to  suffer  perpetual  captivity 
in  the  heart  of  their  immense  deserts. 

The  settled  inhabitants  of  Khiva  are  described  as  gross  and  un- 
civilized, when  compared  either  with  the  Persians,  or  with  the 
people  of  the  other  Tartar  states.  Their  situation  enables  them 
to  carry  on  some  trade,  similar  to  that  of  Bokhara,  though  on  a 
smaller  scale.  One  branch  they  have  extended  much  farther, 
that  of  slaves,  of  whom  it  is  estimated  there  were,  some  years  ago, 

603 


448  ASIA. 

throughout  Khiva  and  Bokhara,  from  150,000  to  200,000  Per- 
sians, and  15,000  Russians. 

The  city  of  Khiva  is  situated  a  short  distance  from  the  Amoo, 
and  contains  20,000  inhabitants.  It  is  poorly  built,  and  is,  indeed, 
rather  a  fixed  encampment  than  a  regular  town.  Even  the  ark, 
or  palace  of  the  khan,  is  only  a  large  wooden  tent-shaped  building, 
plastered  with  clay.  Urgauntsh,  the  ancient  capital,  is  almost  in 
ruins,  though  its  situation  on  the  Amoo  still  preserves  to  it  a  little 
trade.  Khizarist,  a  place  distinguished  in  the  revolutions  of  Asia, 
has  experienced  an  equal  decay.  Mowr,  or  Merve,  is  a  caravan 
station,  situated  about  half-way  between  Meshid  and  Bokhara,  and 
inhabited  by  Turkomans,  and  some  Jews. 

KOONDOOZ. 

Koonuooz,  situated  between  Cabul  and  Bokhara,  and  immedi- 
ately north  of  the  Hindoo  Koo  mountains,  is  a  small  state,  of  recent 
formation,  ruled  by  an  Usbeck  khan  or  meer,  who  has  established 
his  power  over  some  of  the  districts  lying  on  both  sides  of  the 
Upper  Amoo.  The  subjects  of  this  chief  amount  probably  to 
500,000.  He  has  a  force  of  20,000  horse,  and  renders  himself 
formidable  to  his  neighbours  by  his  activity  and  vigorous  policy. 

Badakshan,  one  of  the  territories  attached  to  this  state,  is  a  long 
mountain  valley,  situated  near  the  sources  of  the  Amoo  river:  it 
is  celebrated  all  over  the  east  for  its  mineral  productions,  of  which 
the  most  remarkable  are  rubies,  the  finest  in  the  world,  and  the 
lapis  lazuli  stone,  that  furnishes  the  splendid  blue  colour  called 
ultramarine. 

Khooloom,  the  chief  town,  is  agreeably  situated  in  a  fine  fertile 
district,  and  contains  about  10,000  inhabitants,  principally  Tau- 
jiks,  with  some  Banians,  or  Hindoo  traders.  Koondooz,  once  a 
large  town,  but  now  greatly  reduced,  lies  in  a  marshy  valley,  and 
is  proverbial  for  its  unhealthful  climate.  Mazaur  is  a  famous  place 
of  pilgrimage :  it  contains  8000  inhabitants,  and  is  resorted  to  by 
devotees  from  all  the  neighbouring  territories.  Numerous  mira- 
cles are  related  as  being  performed  here,  at  the  tomb  of  a  celebrated 
Mahomedan  saint. 

KIRGUIS  COUNTRY. 

The  whole  of  Independent  Tartary  lying  north  of  the  sea  of 
Aral,  and  between  the  rivers  Ural  and  Irtysh,  is  occupied  by  the 
Kirguis  or  Kirghese  tribes.  They  are  divided  into  three  branches 
or  hordes,  called  the  Great,  the  Middle,  and  the  Little  Horde :  the 
first  inhabits  the  eastern,  the  second  the  northern,  and  the  last  the 
western  districts.  The  whole  region  consists  of  extensive  steppes 
or  grassy  plains,  intermingled  with  sandy  deserts,  containing  a 
vast  number  of  small  salt  lakes. 


TARTARY.  449 

The  wealth  of  the  Kirguis  consists  in  horses,  goats,  the  large- 
tailed  sheep,  and  a  few  camels.  In  these  respects  their  possessions 
are  said  to  be  often  very  considerable.  It  has  been  chiefly,  as  yet, 
by  plunder  or  contribution,  that  they  have  obtained  foreign  luxu- 
ries ;  but  some,  adopting  more  peaceful  habits,  have  begun  to 
obtain  them  by  the  exchange  of  furs,  hides,  &c. 

These  people  wander  about  with  their  cattle  from  one  pasture 
ground  to  another,  and  live,  like  the  other  nomadic  tribes  of  this 
region,  in  tents  of  felt.  They  acknowledge  to  a  certain  extent  the 
sovereignty  of  Russia,  which,  however,  is  obliged  to  have  recourse 
to  measures  both  of  conciliation  and  defence,  to  prevent  them  from 
making  extensive  depredations  in  its  territory.  In  the  former  view, 
it  grants  pensions  to  the  principal  chiefs,  and  in  the  latter  maintains 
a  chain  of  strong  posts  along  the  whole  line  from  the  Ural  to  the 
Irtysh. 

In  their  social  and  political  capacity,  the  Kirguis  enjoy  a  greater 
share  of  independence  than  most  of  the  other  tribes  of  Middle  Asia. 
Their  private  life  is  directed  by  the  maxims  of  Mahomedan  law, 
of  which  they  are  strict  observers.  Under  its  sanction,  the  chiefs 
practise  polygamy  to  as  great  an  extent  as  purchase  or  robbery 
can  enable  them,  and  a  separate  tent  is  allotted  to  each  wife.  The 
population  of  the  three  hordes  is  supposed  to  amount  to  about 
1,000,000'souls. 

TURCOMANIA. 

Turcomania,  or  the  territory  of  the  Turcomans,  extends  along 
the  eastern  shores  of  the  Caspian  Sea :  it  is  a  sandy  and  rocky 
country,  labouring  under  a  great  deficiency  of  water.  The  inhab- 
itants live  in  tents  of  felt,  or  in  caves  of  the  rocks.  They  are  a 
set  of  rude  shepherds,  who  often  commit  acts  of  robbery,  and  some- 
times carry  off  the  inhabitants  of  the  northern  Persian  provinces, 
whom  they  sell  for  slaves  at  Khiva  and  Bokhara,  and  also  rob  the 
caravans  that  trade  to  the  latter  country. 

The  Turcomans  are  divided  into  several  tribes,  of  which  the 
most  powerful  is  said  to  amount  to  12,000  families  ;  and  the  whole 
nation  is  estimated  to  contain  from  400,000  to  600,000  indi- 
viduals. 


CHINESE  TARTARY. 


Chinese  Taetary  is  an  extensive  region,  comprehending  the 
northern  and  western  sections  of  the  Chinese  Empire,  and  about 
four-fifths  of  the  entire  area  of  Tartary.  It  stretches  from  the  Be- 
loor  mountains  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  from  the  Altay  range  to 
that  of  Kuen-lun,  being  3300  miles  in  length,  and  from  600  to 

38*  3A*  605 


450  ASIA. 

1000  in  breadth.     Area,  about  2,900,000  square  miles.     Popula- 
tion, 10,000,000  or  12,000,000. 

The  whole  territory,  except  that  part  of  it  occupied  by  the  De- 
sert of  Cobi,  is  a  vast  grassy  plain,  which  appears  to  be  better 
suited  to  grazing  than  agriculture.  It  comprises  four  great  divi- 
sions, Little  Bucharia,  Soongaria,  Mongolia,  and  Mantchooria. 

LITTLE  BUCHARIA. 

Little  Bucharia,  called  also  Chinese  Turkestan  by  Europe- 
ans, is  the  Thian-chan-Nanloo  of  the  Chinese.  This  region  is 
enclosed  by  the  Thian-chan  and  Thsoung-ling  mountains  on  the 
one  hand,  and  the  Beloor  range  and  the  great  Desert  of  Cobi  on 
the  other.  Although  an  extensive  country,  and  including  some  of 
the  finest  tracts  of  Central  Asia,  it  has  remained  almost  unknown 
to  the  moderns. 

According  to  recent  reports,  the  Chinese  have  driven  out  the 
native  princes,  and  incorporated  the  greater  part  of  the  country 
into  the  kingdom  of  Cashgar,  which,  in  its  original  limits,  forms  a 
wide  plain  to  the  east  of  the  Beloor  mountains.  It  is  described  as 
superior  in  beauty  and  fertility  to  any  other  part  of  Tartary,  and 
as  rivalling  the  finest  tracts  in  southern  Europe.  The  fields  are 
carefully  cultivated,  are  covered  with  large  crops  of  grain,  and  the 
fruits  are  various,  abundant,  and  of  peculiar  excellence. 

At  present  Cashgar  appears  to  be  flourishing  under  the  Chinese 
sway.  There  and  in  Yarkand,  both  Mahomedan  countries,  the 
magistrates  of  that  profession  administer  justice  and  carry  on  all 
the  internal  affairs,  while  the  Chinese  military  officers,  called  am- 
dans,  collect  the  revenue  and  defend  the  country  against  foreign 
invasion. 

The  city  of  Cashgar  is  the  seat  of  government,  and,  though  not 
the  chief  emporium  of  this  part  of  Asia,  yet  a  mart  of  considerable 
trade.  Yarkand  is  universally  allowed  to  be  a  larger  and  still 
handsomer  city,  and  is  said  to  contain  50,000  inhabitants.  It  is 
a  place  of  immense  resort,  and  filled  with  numerous  caravansaries 
for  the  reception  of  strangers. 

Some  other  countries  and  cities  enumerated  by  late  writers  as 
situated  in  Little  Bucharia,  are  Koten,  Aksou,  Koutche,  Turfan, 
and  Hissar.  Koten  is  celebrated  in  the  early  histories  and  travels 
as  an  independent  kingdom,  of  considerable  extent  and  importance. 
Its  temperate  climate  and  fruitful  soil  are  marked  by  the  produc- 
tion of  the  vine  and  the  silkworm.  Aksou  is  also  described  as  the 
capital  of  an  extensive  district  subject  to  Cashgar.  It  is  supposed 
to  contain  75,000  inhabitants.  Turfan  is  a  large  and  strong  city, 
the  capital  of  a  considerable  country,  governed  by  a  branch  of  the 
royal  family  of  Cashgar. 


TARTARS'.  451 


SOONGARIA. 


Soongaria,  or  the  Thian-chan-Peloo  of  the  Chinese,  compre- 
hends the  most  north-western  section  of  their  empire.  It  occupies 
a  part  of  the  territory  situated  between  the  Altay  and  Thian-chan 
mountains,  and  like  all  the  countries  in  this  quarter,  is  imperfectly 
known  to  the  civilized  world. 

It  may  be  considered  as  a  western  division  of  Mongolia,  being 
in  nearly  all  its  features  of  the  same  general  character.  It  is  peo- 
pled chiefly  by  the  Kalmucks,  who  about  the  end  of  the  17th 
century  had  conquered  all  the  central  parts  of  Tartary,  including 
the  kingdoms  of  Cashgar  and  Koten ;  but  being  attacked  by  the 
united  forces  of  the  Chinese  and  Mongols,  the  unequal  contest 
ended  in  the  subjection  to  China  of  the  whole  of  the  great  region 
east  of  the  Beloor. 

The  Kalmucks  appear  to  have  a  more  systematic  and  regular 
form  of  government  than  any  of  the  other  Tartar  nations  of  this 
quarter.  The  khans  of  the  different  tribes  meet  in  a  general  coun- 
cil to  elect  the  great  khan  of  the  Kalmucks. 

The  marriages  of  this  people  are  celebrated  on  horseback.  On 
the  day  appointed  for  the  nuptials,  the  bride,  mounted  on  a  fleet 
horse,  rides  off  at  full  speed,  her  lover  pursuing,  and  if  he  over- 
takes her,  she  becomes  his  wife  without  further  ceremony  ;  but  if 
the  woman  be  disinclined  towards  her  pursuer,  she  will  not  suffer 
him  to  overtake  her. 

Goulja,  situated  on  the  upper  part  of  the  Eelah  river,  is  the  prin- 
cipal town  in  Soongaria :  it  is  one  of  the  chief  commercial  marts 
of  Central  Tartary,  and  numerous  caravans  trade  to  it  from  various 
quarters.     The  population  is  estimated  at  from  70,000  to  80,000. 

Eelah,  on  the  lower  part  of  the  river  of  the  same  name,  was  the 
Kalmuck  capital  when  that  people  were  the  rulers  of  Central  Tar- 
tary. It  is  said  to  be  rather  a  collection  of  towns  than  a  single 
one.  It  contains  a  Chinese  garrison,  and  has  an  annual  fair,  to 
which  the  Kalmucks  bring  a  great  number  of  horses. 

MONGOLIA. 

Immediately  eastward  of  Little  Bucharia  and  Soongaria,  com- 
mences the  country  of  the  Mongols,  a  race  of  rude  warriors,  who, 
in  the  thirteenth  century,  under  Jenghiz  Khan,  extended  their  do- 
minion, not  only  over  the  finest  regions  of  Asia,  but  over  a  great 
part  of  eastern  Europe,  forming  an  empire  more  extensive  than 
any  which  history  had  previously  recorded.  The  dissensions 
which  arose  among  the  successors  of  the  great  conqueror,  how- 
ever, soon  rendered  the  mighty  fabric  feeble  and  powerless ;  and 
the  victorious  arms  of  Tamerlane  or  Timour,  in  the  following 


452  ASIA. 

century,  completed  its  destruction,  reducing  the  Mongols  to  their 
original  condition. 

Mongolia  consists,  for  the  most  part,  of  elevated,  grassy  plains, 
over  which  the  inhabitants  range  with  their  horses,  camels,  sheep, 
and  goats.  They  are  a  rough,  roaming,  and  active  people ;  but 
in  domestic  intercourse,  frank,  cheerful,  and  hospitable.  Their 
main  pride  consists  in  the  management  of  their  horses,  in  which 
they  show  a  wonderful  degree  of  dexterity. 

Amidst  all  the  privations  to  which  the  Mongols  are  exposed, 
they  manifest  a  gay  and  cheerful  disposition,  and  take  delight  in 
various  kinds  of  sports  and  exercises.  Complete  converts  to  the 
religion  of  Buddha,  they  have  lamas,  feigned  or  fancied  to  be  im- 
mortal ;  and  each  of  whose  places  is  immediately  supplied,  after 
death,  by  another,  believed  to  be  a  new  body,  animated  by  the 
same  soul.  They  have,  also,  monks,  by  whom  the  religious  cere- 
monies are  conducted.  Among  the  Mongols,  their  warlike  chiefs 
hold  that  pre-eminence,  which  is  usual  in  such  rude  tribes. 

These  people  are  divided  into  a  number  of  little  clans,  separate 
from  each  other,  generally  hostile,  and  incapable  of  combining  for 
any  common  object.  China  has  extended  her  sovereignty  over 
the  Mongol  tribes ;  but  that  power,  unable  either  to  maintain  gar- 
risons, or  exact  tribute,  leaves  them  much  to  themselves,  and  re- 
quires little  more  than  that  they  shall  not  encroach  upon  her 
boundaries. 

MANTCHOORIA. 

The  most  eastern  division  of  Tartary,  or  the  country  of  the 
Mantchoos,  forming  the  interval  between  China  and  Siberia,  and 
bordered  by  the  Eastern  Pacific,  is  still  less  known  than  most  of 
its  other  regions.  It  appears  to  be  diversified  by  rugged  and  bro- 
ken mountain  ranges,  covered  with  thick  forests,  and  separated  by 
valleys,  many  of  which,  notwithstanding  the  coldness  of  the  cli- 
mate, possess  considerable  fertility.  Wheat  is  raised  only  in  the 
most  favourite  spots  ;  the  prevalent  culture  is  that  of  oats.  The 
product  most  valued  is  the  ginseng,  the  universal  medicine  in  the 
eye  of  the  Chinese,  who  boast  that  it  would  render  man  immortal, 
were  it  possible  for  him  to  become  so. 

The  great  river  Amoor,  after  rising  in  Mongolia,  traverses  the 
whole  of  this  province,  receiving  from  the  south  the  large  tributa- 
ries of  the  Usuri  and  the  Songari  Oula.  It  abounds  with  fish  of 
the  finest  kinds,  of  which  the  sturgeon,  in  particular,  is  found  in 
matchless  abundance  and  perfection.  The  few  towns  that  exist 
are  inhabited  chiefly  by  Chinese,  defended  by  Tartar  garrisons. 
North  of  the  Amoor,  the  country  is  Siberian  in  character,  and  is 


INDIA.  453 

filled  with  a  race  of  hunters,  who  find  many  valuable  fur-bearing 
animals,  among  which  the  sable  is  conspicuous. 

The  Mantchoos  signalized  themselves  about  200  years  ago,  by 
the  conquest  of  China,  and  the  emperors  of  their  nation  still  oc- 
cupy the  throne  of  Pekin.  They  are  by  no  means  wholly  desti- 
tute of  civilization.  Their  language  and  writing  is  essentially 
different  from  that  of  the  Chinese,  or  of  any  other  nation  of  Central 
Asia.  The  former  is  the  most  learned  and  polished  of  any  of  the 
Tartar  tongues. 

•  The  provinces  of  Mantchoo  Tartary,  immediately  adjacent  to 
China,  are  called  Kortchin,  and  Kirin,  or  Kirin  Oula,  of  which  the 
latter  has  a  capital  of  the  same  name.  The  most  remarkable 
place,  however,  is  Zhehol,  the  summer  residence  and  hunting-seat 
of  the  Chinese  emperors.  The  gardens  here  are  most  superb  and 
extensive,  occupying  a  large  expanse  of  ground,  tastefully  orna- 
mented. The  province  which  is  reported  to  contain  the  greatest 
extent  of  productive  land  is  Leaotong,  bordering  on  Corea;  of  which 
Chinyang,  or  Moukden,  is  the  capital. 


INDIA. 

India  has  been  always  noted  for  its  great  fertility  and  the  abun- 
dance of  its  rich  and  valuable  products.  The  remarkable  character 
of  the  institutions,  and  the  singular  manners  and  customs  of  the 
inhabitants  of  its  principal  divisions,  have  attracted,  from  the  ear- 
liest ages,  the  attention,  not  only  of  the  surrounding,  but  even  of 
far  distant  nations. 

The  term,  India,  is  unknown  to  the  natives ;  it  is,  probably,  of 
Persian  origin,  and  was  adopted  by  the  Greeks,  from  whom  it  de- 
scended to  modern  times.  The  name  was,  at  first,  applied  to  an 
indefinite  extent  of  country,  lying  eastward  of  the  Indus  river ;  but 
it  is  now  used  in  a  more  precise  and  exact  sense. 

Many  parts  of  India  were  well  known  to  the  ancient  geogra- 
phers, who,  in  their  descriptions,  divided  it  into  India  within,  and 
India  without  the  Ganges.  Some  of  their  accounts  respecting  this 
region  were  long  considered  doubtful ;  but  the  more  accurate 
knowledge  obtained  of  Upper  Hindoostan  within  the  last  30  or  40 
years,  has  served  to  verify  most  of  their  statements,  and  settle 
many  disputed  points. 

India  comprehends  those  two  extensive  peninsulas  of  Southern 
Asia,  which  are  bounded  on  the  west  by  the  Arabian,  and  on  the 
east  by  the  China  Sea,  and  divided  by  the  bay  of  Bengal  into  two 
great  sections.      The  western,  and  more  extensive  division,  is 


454  ASIA. 

known  by  the  various  names  of  Hindoostan,  Hither  India,  and 
India  this  side  of  the  Ganges ;  while  the  eastern  division  is  called 
India  beyond  the  Ganges,  Further  India,  Chin  India,  and  also  Indo 
China. 

Both  the  Indian  peninsulas  are  remarkable  for  the  number  and 
size  of  their  rivers,  whose  waters  and  inundations,  united  with  the 
heat  of  the  climate,  make  them  the  most  fertile  countries  on  earth. 
The  term,  East  Indies,  is  used  very  commonly  for  the  whole  of 
south-eastern  Asia,  including  China,  and  the  numerous  islands  of 
Malaysia. 


HINDOOSTAN. 


Hindoostan,  in  every  age,  has  ranked  as  the  most  celebrated 
country  in  the  East ;  it  has  always  been  the  peculiar  seat  of  orien- 
tal pomp,  of  an  early  and  exclusive  civilization,  and  of  a  com- 
merce, supported  by  richer  products  than  that  of  any  other  country, 
ancient  or  modern. 

It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Thibet,  south  by  the  Indian  Ocean, 
west  by  Afghanistan,  Beloochistan,  and  the  Arabian  Sea,  and  east 
by  the  Bay  of  Bengal  and  British  Birmah.  In  its  most  extended 
limits,  it  measures  from  north  to  south  1850,  and  from  east  to 
west,  1500  miles.  Area,  1,200,000  square  miles,  including  about 
the  one-thirteenth  part  of  the  surface  of  Asia. 

This  country  comprises,  geographically,  four  great  divisions. 
1st.  Northern  India,  which  contains  the  countries  extending  along 
the  base  of  the  Himmaleh  mountains.  2d.  Hindoostan  Proper, 
extending  from  the  former,  southward  to  the  Nerbuddah  river.  3d. 
The  Deccan,  comprising  the  whole  region  south  of  the  Nerbuddah, 
and  stretching  to  Cape  Comorin ;  this  territory  is  subdivided  into 
the  Northern  and  Southern  Deccan,  the  first  situated  north  and 
the  other  south  of  the  Krishna  river.  4th.  The  Isles,  including 
Ceylon  and  the  Coralline  Archipelago. 

The  grandest  natural  feature  of  this  region  is,  the  vast  moun- 
tain range  of  the  Himmaleh,  which  forms  its  northern  boundary ; 
it  extends  from  the  north-west  to  the  south-east,  and  separates  this 
part  of  India  from  the  Chinese  empire.  These  gigantic  mountains 
exceed  in  elevation,  all  others  in  the  world ;  they  ascend  by  suc- 
cessive stages  from  their  base,  and  are  robed,  far  below  their  sum- 
mits, in  eternal  snow.  About  the  sources  of  the  Indus,  the 
Ganges,  and  the  Burrampooter,  they  shoot  up  to  an  elevation  of 
from  26,000  to  29,000  feet.  Mount  Choumalarie,  the  highest 
peak,  attains  the  latter  elevation,  while  Mount  Dhawalageri  and 
others  are  but  little  inferior.     In  the  Deccan,  the  two  great  chains 


INDIA.  455 

of  the  Ghauts  extend  along  the  opposite  coasts,  nearly  parallel  to 
each  other.  They  rise  in  a  few  places  above  3000  or  4000  feet, 
but  very  rugged  and  steep.  One  continuous  chain,  the  Vindhaya 
mountains,  immediately  north  of  the  Nerbuddah  river,  runs  across 
the  broad  base  of  the  peninsula,  and  forms  a  rugged  boundary 
between  it  and  the  great  plain  of  Hindoostan  Proper. 

The  rivers  of  this  country  form  a  feature  no  less  important  than 
its  mountains.  The  Indus,  the  Ganges,  and  the  Burrampooter, 
are  the  chief,  and  rank  among  the  most  celebrated  streams  of  the 
Old  Continent.  The  Indus,  or  Sinde,  forms  the  western  boundary  ; 
its  head  branch,  the  Ladak,  rises  among  the  most  elevated  of  the 
Himmaleh  mountains,  and  within  a  short  distance  of  the  sources 
of  the  Ganges  and  Burrampooter.  In  its  course  to  the  ocean,  it 
receives,  among  other  tributaries,  the  Hydaspes,  or  Sutledge, 
famed  in  history  since  the  days  of  Alexander.  The  Indus  flows 
into  the  Indian  Ocean  by  two  great  estuaries,  which  enclose  a  delta 
of  about  70  miles  in  extent. 

The  Ganges  is  the  most  pre-eminent  among  the  rivers  of  India, 
not  only  from  the  great  and  fertile  valley  which  it  waters,  the 
number  of  important  cities  and  towns  on  its  banks,  but  also  from 
the  holy  and  sacred  character  it  has  maintained  from  the  most  re- 
mote ages ;  the  Hindoos  believing  that  its  waters  possess  a  virtue 
which  will  preserve  them  from  every  moral  transgression.  Some 
of  the  tributaries  would,  in  many  countries,  rank  as  important 
rivers.  The  chief  are  the  Jumna,  Gogra,  Gunduck,  Cosa,  &c. 
About  200  miles  from  the  sea,  the  Ganges  spreads  out  into  a  broad 
delta,  of  which  the  numerous  branches  which  enter  the  Bay  of 
Bengal,  are  called  Sunderbunds ;  they  are  mostly  shallow,  except 
the  Hoogly,  or  western  branch,  by  which  large  vessels  can  ascend 
to  Calcutta.  The  Burrampooter,  the  eastern  limitary  river  of 
Hindoostan,  pours  a  vast  body  of  water  into  the  lower  Ganges,  be- 
fore its  junction  with  the  sea ;  where  the  two  streams  united  form 
a  bay  with  numerous  islands.  The  other  chief  rivers  of  Hindoostan 
are  the  Nerbuddah,  which  falls  into  the  gulf  of  Cambay ;  and  the 
Godavery,  Krishna,  Cavery,  &c.  the  principal  of  Southern  India, 
flow  into  the  Bay  of  Bengal. 

This  part  of  India  has  always  been  celebrated  for  its  fertility, 
and  for  the  profusion  of  its  useful  and  valuable  products.  Its 
large  and  copious  streams  maintain,  generally,  throughout  the 
country,  a  perennial  abundance.  The  character,  however,  is,  by 
no  means,  universal.  All  the  western  parts  of  central  Hindoostan, 
except  where  it  is  watered  by  the  Indus,  the  Ganges,  and  their  tri- 
butaries, consist  of  loose  sand,  in  which  the  traveller  sinks  knee- 
deep.  A  great  part,  also,  of  the  hilly  districts  being  overrun  with 
underwood,  or  jungle,  is  unfit  for  any  useful  product. 


456  ASIA. 

Although  the  Hindoos  have  ever  been  an  agricultural  people, 
and  remarkable  for  their  industry,  nothing  can  be  more  imperfect 
than  the  instruments,  or  the  skill,  with  which  they  conduct  the 
important  art  of  husbandry.  Their  slight  plough,  rudely  con- 
structed, cannot  penetrate  beyond  two  or  three  inches  deep  ;  and  the 
ground,  being  afterwards  imperfectly  levelled  by  the  rough  branch 
of  a  tree,  as  a  substitute  for  the  harrow,  is  considered  fit  for  re- 
ceiving the  seed  ;  yet  this  defective  cultivation  is  generally  followed 
by  copious  harvests. 

Rice  is  the  chief  product  of  this  country ;  dhourra,  a  coarse, 
arid  grain,  is  raised  on  the  dry  sandy  districts,  towards  the  Indus, 
and  wheat  and  barley  in  those  tracts  which,  from  their  more  ele- 
vated site,  approximate  to  the  temperate  climates. 

The  most  important  of  the  other  products  of  Hindoostan  are 
cotton,  silk,  sugar,  tobacco,  opium,  and  indigo ;  the  two  last  have 
been,  of  late  years,  greatly  increased,  both  in  quantity  and  quality. 
Saltpetre  from  Bengal,  and  coffee  and  pepper  from  the  Malabar 
coast,  are  also  important  products. 

Besides  these  articles  destined  for  exportation,  there  are  others 
consumed  to  a  great  amount,  in  the  interior.  The  nut  of  the  areca, 
combined  with  the  leaf  of  the  betel,  is  one  universally  used  in 
India.  Of  vegetable  oils,  supplied  from  the  sesamum,  lint-seed, 
mustard-seed,  and  cocoa-nut,  there  is  a  large  consumption. 

Woods  of  various  kinds  grow  luxuriantly  on  the  lower  declivi- 
ties of  the  Indian  hills.  The  canes,  or  bamboos,  which  abound 
in  marshy  places,  are  much  used  in  building,  and  in  the  fabrica- 
tion of  a  multitude  of  articles  of  various  kinds.  The  teak,  unri- 
valled for  ship-building,  flourishes  in  Malabar ;  and  that  country 
also  supplies  sandal-wood,  as  well  as  others  used  for  dyeing,  or  for 
ornamental  furniture. 

The  banyan,  or  peepul  tree,  is  one  of  the  wonders  of  Indian 
vegetation  ;  it  is  continually  increasing  :  every  branch  proceeding 
from  the  trunk,  throws  out  long  fibres,  which  descend  and  take 
root  in  the  earth.  The  circumference  of  one  of  these  trees,  grow- 
ing on  the  banks  of  the  Nerbuddah,  although  much  of  it  has  been 
swept  away  by  the  floods  of  the  river,  is  almost  2000  feet ;  its 
various  trunks  or  depending  branches  amount  to  more  than  3000 
in  number;  and  7000  men  have  been  known  to  take  shelter  un- 
der its  wide-spread  shade. 

The  principal  manufactures  are  those  of  cotton,  which,  though 
nearly  driven  out  of  Europe  by  cheap  and  successful  imitation, 
are  preferred  all  over  the  East.  Silk,  though  holding  only  a 
secondary  place,  as  an  Indian  commodity,  is  still  considerable. 
Woollens  are  not  made,  except  in  the  northern  mountainous  dis- 
tricts, and  are  chiefly  for  home  consumption.    Cashmere  manufac- 


HINDOOSTAN. 


Sagus  Farinifera,  or  Sago  Tree.  Palmyra  Palm. 

The  trunk  of  the  Sagus  Farinifera  contains  a  mealy  pith  of  which  sago  is  made;    and  the 
Palmyra  palm  yields  the  toddy  or  palm  wine. 


Teak  Tree.  Sandal  Wood. 

The  Teak  Tree  grows  in  Hindoostan  and  P.irmah.    Ships  are  extensively  built  of  the  timber, 
which  is  c<iu;il  to  the  best  oak,  and  is  very  durable. 

Sandal  Wood  possesses  a  sweet  fragrant  smell.     Ft  bears  a  high  price  ;  and  is  manufactured 
chiefly  into  small  fancy  articles.    No  insect  can  exist,  or  iron  rust,  under  its  influence. 

313  613 


ASIA. 


Sacred  Bean  of  India.  Valeriana  Jatamansi. 

The  Sacred  Bean,  or  Solo,  of  India,  is  a  large  water-lily,  which  bears  a  beautiful  rose- 
coloured  flower.  From  the  lamina  of  the  large  stems,  the  natives  make  hats,  artificial  flowers, 
and  various  fancy  ornaments. 

The  Valeriana  Jatamansi  yields  the  spikenard  of  the  ancients,  a  valuable  perfume,  still 
highly  prized  in  the  east. 


Betel  Pepper.  Strychnos  Nux  Vomica. 

The  leaves  of  the  Betel  Pepper  are  extensively  used  in  India,  Sumatra,  &c.  It  is  chewed 
along  with  a  slice  of  areca  nut,  and  a  small  portion  of  chunam,  or  sea-shell  lime.  The  use  of 
these  articles  blackens  the  teeth,  and  makes  the  lips  red. 

The  fruit  of  the  Nux  Vomica  is  about  the  size  of  an  orange,  and  contains  several  flattish 
circular  seeds;  these  are  the  vomic  nuts,  the  most  violent  of  all  vegetable  poisons. 


Bamboo,  or  Cane. 


614 


INDIA.  457 

tures  those  beautiful  shawls  which  Europe  has  striven  to  rival,  but 
unsuccessfully,  except  in  cheapness. 

The  mining  operations  of  this  country  are  principally  confined 
to  one  object,  diamonds,  which  are  the  finest  in  the  world ;  for 
those  of  Brazil,  though  of  greater  size,  are  inferior  in  hardness 
and  brilliancy.  The  Indian  diamonds  occur  chiefly  in  the  interior 
districts  of  Hyderabad,  in  the  vicinity  of  Golconda ;  the  mines 
were  once  worked  by  6000  men,  but  of  late  years  their  import- 
ance has  much  declined. 

The  sands  of  the  rivers  yield,  also,  some  gold  dust,  but  not  in 
a  sufficient  quantity  to  become  a  national  object.  Iron,  lead,  tin, 
and  zinc  are  produced,  the  latter  in  great  abundance  ;  and  marble, 
alabaster,  and  salt,  also  abound ;  of  the  latter,  both  rocks  and 
plains  are  in  some  places  covered  with  this  mineral. 

Though  the  Hindoos,  themselves,  have  never  been  a  trading 
people,  yet  the  commerce  of  this  country  has  always  been  anxi- 
ously sought  for,  by  European  nations ;  its  distance,  and  the  bril- 
liant character  of  many  of  its  productions,  have  caused  the  trade 
of  India  to  be  invested  with  a  splendour  greater,  perhaps,  than  its 
real  importance  deserved. 

The  commerce  of  Great  Britain  with  Hindoostan  was  for  more 
than  two  hundred  years  exclusively  carried  on  by  the  East  India 
Company.  In  1813,  it  was,  with  some  restrictions,  opened  to 
British  subjects;  and  finally,  twenty  years  afterwards  (1833),  the 
commercial  privileges  of  the  company  were  entirely  abolished,  and 
the  trade  to  India  and  China  thrown  open  to  all  the  inhabitants  of 
Great  Britain. 

The  amount  of  imports  into  British  India  are  about  40  million 
dollars  annually,  and  the  exports  average  from  50  to  60  millions. 
Nearly  one-half  of  the  commerce  is  carried  on  directly  with  Great 
Britain,  and  about  two-thirds  of  the  remainder  with  China.  The 
Banians,  or  Hindoo  merchants,  Armenians,  and  Parsees,  transact 
the  chief  part  of  the  internal  trade,  and  also  that  carried  on  by 
land,  with  the  surrounding  nations. 

This  division  of  India  has,  for  many  successive  ages,  been  the 
theatre  of  absolute  empire,  exercised  by  foreign  military  poten- 
tates. The  basis  of  its  population  belongs  to  the  Hindoo  race,  who, 
so  long  as  they  are  permitted  to  enjoy  their  peculiar  opinions  and 
customs,  quietly  behold  all  the  power  and  wealth  of  the  country 
monopolized  by  any  people,  however  strange  or  foreign,  who  pos- 
sess sufficient  force  and  vigour  to  acquire  a  predominance  by  con- 
quest. They  are  destitute  of  patriotism,  and  have  no  idea  of  a 
country  or  nation  of  their  own,  in  whose  glory  and  prosperity  they 
are  interested.  Their  attachment  is  to  a  chief  who  possesses  popu- 
lar qualities,  and  who  purchases  their  adherence  by  pay  and  pro- 

39  615 


458  ASIA. 

motion.  To  him,  they  often  manifest  signal  fidelity ;  but  are 
strangers  to  every  other  feeling.  Despotism  is  not  only  estab- 
lished by  long  precedent,  but  is  rooted  in  the  very  habits  and 
minds  of  the  community.  Such  habits  naturally  predispose  the 
people  of  a  fertile  region,  bordered  by  poor  and  warlike  tribes,  to 
fall  into  a  state  of  regular  and  constant  subjection  to  a  foreign 
yoke. 

The  power  which  for  many  centuries  ruled  over  Hindoostan, 
was  the  Mahomedan.  Its  votaries,  as  usual,  entered  the  country 
sword  in  hand,  announcing  destruction  to  all  unbelievers.  Though 
successful  elsewhere,  their  religion  never  made,  in  India,  the 
slightest  impression.  The  Hindoos  opposed  to  it  a  passive,  but 
immoveable  resistance.  The  conquerors,  finding  in  them  such  a 
fixed  determination  upon  this  point,  while  on  every  other  they 
were  the  most  submissive  subjects,  generally  allowed  them  to  enjoy 
their  peculiar  tenets  in  peace  and  quietness. 

In  this  country,  the  power  of  Britain  is  now  entirely  predomi- 
nant. This  absolute  sway  of  an  island,  comparatively  so  small, 
over  an  empire  of  more  than  100  millions  of  inhabitants,  separated 
from  it  by  so  vast  a  circuit  of  ocean,  presents  one  of  the  most  re- 
markable phenomena  in  the  history  of  the  world.  Yet  the  subjec- 
tion is  complete,  and  almost  universally  peaceful ;  and  the  ex- 
pectations of  its  short  continuance,  which  some  entertain,  are,  per- 
haps, imaginary. 

The  number  of  Europeans  by  whom  such  vast  dominions  are 
held  in  subjection,  does  not  exceed  50,000.  Their  power,  how- 
ever, is  multiplied  by  that  peculiarity  in  the  character  of  the 
Hindoo,  which  makes  it  easy  to  train  him  into  an  instrument  for 
holding  his  own  country  in  subjection.  "  The  Asiatic  fights  for 
pay  and  plunder ;  and  whose  bread  he  eats,  his  cause  he  will  de- 
fend against  friends,  country,  and  family."  Accordingly,  the 
sepoys  (Indian  troops,  commanded  by  British  officers,  and  trained 
after  the  European  manner)  are  found  nearly  as  efficient  as  troops 
entirely  British ;  and,  so  long  as  nothing  is  done  to  shock  their 
religion  and  prejudices,  they  are  equally  faithful. 

The  population  of  Hindoostan  amounts  to  about  140  millions. 
Of  this  vast  multitude,  nine-tenths  still  consist  of  that  original  race 
who  have  remained  always  unmixed,  and  have  retained  unaltered, 
from  the  earliest  times,  their  ancient  habits  and  institutions. 

The  Hindoos  are  of  a  very  dark  complexion,  with  features  simi- 
lar to  the  European,  and  with  a  pleasing,  and  rather  soft  expres- 
sion of  countenance ;  in  form,  they  are  slender  and  graceful.  The 
females  of  the  higher  class,  who  do  not  labour,  are  exceedingly 
delicate  and  sylph-like,  with  dark  and  languishing  eyes,  and  long, 
glossy  black  hair :  many  of  them  have  complexions  almost  as  fair 


INDIA.  459 

as  Europeans.  The  races,  however,  bred  to  war,  who  inhabit 
the  mountains  and  western  tracts,  are  of  a  bodily  constitution 
more  hardy  and  athletic  than  the  generality  of  the  other  Hindoos. 

The  mass  of  the  people  are  moderate  and  sober  in  their  habits ; 
a  single  piece  of  cotton  stuff  suffices  them  for  clothing  ;  their  dwell- 
ings are  the  slightest  and  simplest  that  can  be  imagined ;  their 
sustenance  consists  mostly  of  rice  and  water,  and  but  little  trouble 
is  required  to  satisfy  their  wants.  There  are,  however,  some 
classes  who  display  in  their  mode  of  living  all  the  luxury  of  the 
east.  The  rajahs  and  nabobs,  surrounded  by  numerous  slaves, 
have  their  garments  glittering  with  gold,  gems,  and  embroideries  ; 
their  apartments  adorned  with  paintings  and  gilding,  and  perfumed 
with  various  odorous  essences. 

Besides  the  Hindoos,  the  population  includes  Mahomedans,  com- 
prising the  descendants  of  the  Mogul  conquerors  of  the  country, 
with  a  number  of  Arabian  and  Afghan  emigrants,  and  their  pos- 
terity; Jews,  both  white  and  black,  and  about  150,000  native  or 
Syrian  Christians,  on  the  coast  of  Malabar,  besides  English,  French, 
Portuguese,  &c,  and  their  descendants.  The  Jains  and  Cingalese 
are  Buddhists.  The  Seiks  profess  the  religion  of  Nanek,  a  mix- 
ture of  Brahminism  and  Mahomedanism ;  and  the  Parsees,  or 
Guebres,  are  fire-worshippers. 

Of  the  various  races  distinguished  in  Hindoostan,  the  Mah- 
rattas  are  among  the  most  noted  in  modern  times.  They  became 
celebrated  about  200  years  ago ;  but  were  at  the  height  of  their 
power  during  the  middle  of  the  last  century.  Their  force  con- 
sisted of  cavalry,  and  they  considered  themselves  always  at  war. 
In  their  various  contests  with  the  British,  their  strength  was  finally 
prostrated  :  their  chiefs  have  become  the  tributaries  and  allies  of 
the  Company ;  and  their  sovereign,  the  Peishwa,  now  lives  on  a 
pension  granted  by  that  power. 

The  Pindarees  and  Bheels  were  formidable  robbers,  whose 
ferocity  and  depredations  were  long  the  terror  of  Central  Hin- 
doostan. The  former  assembled  in  bands  of  many  thousands  in 
number,  and  performed  journeys  on  horseback,  with  incredible 
speed,  of  hundreds  of  miles  in  extent,  to  effect  their  vile  purposes. 
Both  these  scourges  have  been,  however,  exterminated  by  the  British 
government. 

The  Rohillas,  during  the  last  century,  were  noted,  in  Indian 
warfare,  for  their  courage  and  gallantry.  They  were  the  descend- 
ants of  Afghan  tribes,  who  emigrated  to  the  country  lying  on  the 
upper  banks  of  the  Ganges  river,  in  the  vicinity  of  Delhi. 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  circumstances  in  Hindoo  manners, 
is  the  division  of  the  people  into  castes,  of  which  there  are  four: 
first,  Bramins,  who  are  men  of  letters,  and  have  the  care  of  reli- 

2iJ*  617 


460  ASIA. 

gion  and  laws ;  second,  the  soldiers,  called  Cshutriyas  or  Rajah- 
poots,  (this  class  includes  princes  and  sovereigns) ;  third,  mer- 
chants, farmers,  and  shepherds,  called  Vaisyas ;  and  fourth,  Su- 
dras,  or  labourers. 

The  Bramin  is  required  to  abstain  from  animal  food  and  fer- 
mented liquors,  and  to  perform  religious  rites  and  ceremonies. 
Some  of  them,  however,  engage  in  employments  of  a  secular  nature. 
Many  of  them  are  agents  or  ministers  of  the  native  princes,  and 
some  of  them  embark  in  commerce.  They  are  an  artful  set  of 
impostors,  expert  in  disguising  the  truth,  and  practising  without 
scruple  every  artifice  to  mislead  the  people  and  accomplish  their 
own  selfish  purposes.  The  number  of  persons  of  this  caste  who 
are  respectable  for  their  knowledge  and  virtue,  is  extremely  small. 

The  Rajah-poots  seem  not  to  possess  the  general  character  of 
the  Hindoos,  being  courageous,  ambitious,  and  fond  of  a  military 
life.  Many  of  them  are  employed  in  the  English  service  under 
the  name  of  sepoys.  The  duties  of  the  third  caste  consist  in  the 
labours  of  the  field  and  garden,  the  rearing  of  cattle,  and  the  sale 
of  landed  produce.  When  they  travel  to  other  countries,  they 
engage  in  mercantile  pursuits,  and  are  generally  called  Banians. 
The  business  of  the  fourth  and  most  numerous  caste,  is  servile 
labour.  They  are  compelled  to  work  for  the  Bramins,  being  con- 
sidered as  created  solely  for  their  use.  To  them  the  vedas,  or 
holy  books,  must  never  be  read;  and  whoever  instructs  them  in 
religion,  is  doomed  to  one  of  the  hells  with  which  the  world  of 
spirits  is  provided. 

Such  is  this  singular  institution  of  castes.  Each  individual  re- 
mains generally  in  the  rank  in  which  he  is  born :  he  may  descend 
to  a  lower,  but  cannot  aspire  to  a  higher,  whatever  be  his  merits. 
The  rigid  adherents  to  caste  never  intermarry  ;  and,  so  complete  is 
the  separation,  that  they  will  not  even  eat  at  the  same  table. 

The  religion  of  the  Hindoos,  derived  from  their  sacred  books, 
inculcates  a  belief  in  the  existence  of  a  supreme  intelligence  or 
Brahm,  who  holds  himself  aloof  from  the  world,  in  a  state  of  per- 
fect indolence  and  bliss ;  having  committed  the  government  of  the 
universe  to  the  three  divinities,  Brahma,  Vishnu,  and  Siva :  these 
form  the  Hindoo  trinity. 

The  Hindoos  believe  that  those  who  withdraw  from  the  world, 
and  devote  themselves  to  abstinence  and  self-torture,  will  arrive  at 
supreme  happiness,  by  being  united  to  the  spirit  of  their  great 
divinity,  as  a  drop  of  water  is  absorbed  by  the  ocean.  The  doc- 
trine of  the  transmigration  of  souls  is  a  part  of  the  Hindoo  creed : 
it  teaches  that  the  spirits  of  the  less  holy  will  pass  into  the  bodies 
of  other  men  and  brutes,  and  those  of  the  good  into  higher  states 
of  existence. 


INDIA.  461 

The  people  adore  images  of  various  kinds,  and  also  the  cow 
and  the  monkey ;  and  by  many  families  one  of  the  former  is  kept 
for  the  mere  purpose  of  worshipping  it.  Under  the  blind  influence 
of  superstition,  the  Hindoos  throw  their  children  in  the  Ganges 
and  other  rivers,  inflict  upon  themselves  the  most  painful  tortures 
and  penances,  and  seek  death  by  drowning,  by  fire,  by  being 
crushed  beneath  the  wheels  of  their  idol  cars,  and  by  throwing 
themselves  on  large  iron  hooks. 

The  Suttee,  or  burning  of  widows  upon  the  funeral  pile  of  their 
deceased  husbands,  and  the  murder  of  infants,  has  been  long  prac- 
tised ;  but  the  authority  of  the  British  government  has  been  lately 
employed  in  abolishing  these  hateful  customs.  There  is  not,  per- 
haps, in  the  whole  history  of  the  human  race,  a  picture  more  truly 
horrible  and  disgusting  than  is  presented  by  the  idolatries  of  this 
infatuated  people. 

The  great  efforts  which  are  now  making  by  various  missionary 
societies  for  introducing  Christianity  into  India,  have  in  many 
instances  obtained  a  rich  reward.  Hundreds  of  Hindoos  have 
renounced  their  gods,  the  Ganges,  and  their  priests,  and  have 
shaken  from  their  limbs  the  iron  chain  of  caste.  A  large  number 
of  converted  natives  have  in  some  sense  become  missionaries,  and 
have  been  the  instruments  of  turning  many  to  a  purer  and  more 
enlightened  faith.  All  the  societies  engaged  in  the  work  of  mis- 
sions, have  far  more  calls  for  labourers  than  they  have  instruments 
at  their  disposal.  Twenty  times  the  number  of  missionaries,  cate- 
chists,  and  schoolmasters,  are  wanting,  and  there  is  abundant  evi- 
dence that,  through  the  exertions  now  in  progress,  the  fabric  of 
Hindoo  superstition  is  beginning  to  totter. 

The  Hindoos,  at  a  very  early  period,  made  considerable  progress 
in  astronomy,  algebra,  &c,  and  have  an  extensive  literature, 
mostly  connected  with  their  religion.  It  is,  however,  generally 
puerile,  highly  extravagant,  and  unsuited  to  the  ideas  of  the  western 
nations.  The  Bramins,  who  alone  ought  to  be  well  informed,  are 
now  almost  wholly  illiterate.  The  only  tincture  of  learning  and 
thought  appears  to  exist  among  some  of  the  higher  inhabitants  of 
the  great  cities,  who  have  derived  it  chiefly  from  intercourse  with 
the  British  residents,  and  particularly  with  the  missionaries. 

The  English  language  is  spreading  in  India,  and  a  taste  for 
European  literature,  newspapers,  and  periodicals,  is  beginning  to 
take  place  among  those  whose  situation  throws  them  into  habits 
of  intimacy  with  foreigners :  a  brighter  era  has  also  commenced 
in  the  political  condition  of  the  natives  ;  they  have,  for  several  years, 
been  admissible  to  civil  offices  and  to  act  as  civil  and  criminal 
judges,  and  are  also  summoned  to  sit  in  the  native  juries,  and  to 
try  in  some  places  criminal,  in  others  both  civil  and  criminal  ques- 
39  *  619 


462  ASIA. 

lions.  By  the  Act  of  Parliament  of  1833,  for  the  better  govern- 
ment of  British  India,  it  is  further  provided,  that  no  native  shall,  by 
reason  of  his  religion,  place  of  birth,  descent,  or  colour,  be  disabled 
from  holding  any  office  or  employment  under  the  Company. 

The  Sanscrit,  the  original  language  of  Hindoostan,  is  so  ancient 
that  it  has  not  been  in  use  for  hundreds  of  years.  In  it  the  sacred 
books  of  the  Hindoos  are  written  ;  and  it  is  studied  by  the  Bramins, 
as  Greek  and  Latin  are  with  us.  The  oldest  languages  derived  from 
the  Sanscrit  are  the  Pacrit,  the  Bali,  and  the  Zend :  these  are  the 
sacred  languages  of  different  sects.  The  modern  languages  of  this 
country  have  nine-tenths  of  their  words  in  common ;  but,  except 
the  Hindoostanee,  which  is  generally  spoken,  and  the  Gujeratee, 
the  usual  language  of  the  markets,  they  are  all  local. 

The  Hindoos  aspire  to  an  antiquity  far  beyond  the  first  glim- 
merings of  the  most  remote  history.  Their  early  annals  are  so 
entirely  fabulous,  that  it  is  impossible  to  separate  the  fiction  from 
the  truth ;  and  their  own  opinion  of  the  remoteness  of  their  origin 
is  altogether  unworthy  of  credit.  India  was  invaded  at  various 
periods  anterior  to  the  Christian  era  by  Darius,  Alexander,  Se- 
ieucus,  and  Antiochus :  these  inroads  were,  however,  merely  par- 
tial, not  producing  any  lasting  effect.  For  more  than  1000  years 
after  the  time  of  our  Saviour,  no  event  worthy  of  credit  has  been 
recorded  in  history  respecting  this  interesting  country. 

In  the  beginning  of  the  11th  century,  Mahmoud  of  Ghiznee 
established  his  power  over,  and  introduced  the  Mahomedan  faith 
into  Hindoostan.  His  dynasty  was  subverted  by  the  Ghorian, 
which  was  succeeded  by  the  Patan  race  of  monarchs,  and  the  lat- 
ter was  in  its  turn  prostrated  by  the  mighty  conqueror  Tamerlane. 
In  1525,  Baber,  his  grandson,  founded  the  Mogul  Empire,  which, 
under  Akbar  and  Aurengzebe,  attained  a  power  and  grandeur 
scarcely  ever  equalled.  This  splendid  monarchy,  at  the  height 
of  its  glory,  numbered  not  less  than  80,000,000  subjects,  and  pro- 
duced a  revenue  of  160,000,000  dollars  annually. 

Enfeebled  at  length  by  the  decay  of  its  original  vigour,  the  power 
of  the  Mogul  Empire  was  shaken  by  the  Mahrattas,  and  about  100 
years  ago  almost  subverted  by  Nadir  Shah.  It  continued  in  a 
tottering  condition  until  the  commencement  of  the  present  century, 
when  the  limited  fragments  of  the  mighty  fabric  were  absorbed 
into  the  more  mighty  domains  of  the  present  rulers  of  India  ;  and 
the  last  of  the  Moguls,  the  representative  of  the  proudest  sovereigns 
of  the  East,  has  become  like  the  Zamorin,  the  Peishwa,  and  other 
Indian  princes,  mere  pensioners  on  the  bounty  of  their  conquerors. 

There  have  been  at  all  times  occasional  famines  in  Hindoostan, 
but  within  the  last  20  or  30  years  several  have  occurred  of  the 
most  horrible  description.    Those  of  1837  and  1838,  in  upper  Ben- 


INDIA.  463 

gal,  and  of  1839,  in  Bombay  and  Madras,  are  supposed  to  have 
swept  off  almost  1,000,000  people.  So  extensive  were  the  ravages 
of  death,  that  the  air,  for  miles  around  several  of  the  large  cities, 
was  tainted  with  the  putrifying  carcases  of  human  beings  and  cattle, 
and  the  rivers  Ganges  and  Jumna  were  choked  up  and  poisoned  by 
the  dead  bodies  thrown  into  their  channels. 

These  appalling  dispensations  have  been  generally  occasioned 
by  extensive  droughts  and  inundations,  but  they  have  been  always 
aggravated  by  the  unwise  and  impolitic  legislation  of  wicked  rulers. 
The  land  tax  system  of  Hindoostan,  which  has  existed  from  the 
earliest  ages,  and  retained  through  all  successive  periods  to  the 
present  time,  is  highly  onerous  and  despotic :  it  has  prevented  the 
improvement  of  husbandry,  and  restricted  the  culture  of  the  soil  to 
less  than  one-half  the  quantity  susceptible  of  tillage. 

The  evils  produced  by  the  above  system,  the  decrease  of  the 
cotton  and  other  branches  of  manufactures,  together  with  the  con- 
stant remission  of  the  available  wealth  of  India  to  Great  Britain, 
have  rendered  this  country  much  less  opulent  and  flourishing  than 
in  former  times ;  and  the  princely  fortunes,  once  so  easily  ac- 
quired by  Europeans,  are  now  comparatively  rare. 

Hindoostan  comprises  a  number  of  states,  various  in  dimensions, 
government,  and  character.  They  comprise  British  India,  the 
native  states  of  Lahore,  Nepaul,  Bootan,  Scindiah,  and  Sinde, 
with  the  petty  kingdom  of  the  Maldives,  and  the  small  colonial 
possessions  of  Portugal,  France,  and  Denmark. 


BRITISH  INDIA. 


The  East  India  Company's  territory,  or  British  India,  compre- 
hends nearly  the  whole  of  Hindoostan,  forming  an  empire  nine 
times  more  extensive,  and  five  times  more  populous,  than  Great 
Britain  and  Ireland.  This  vast  domain  has  been  almost  all  acquired 
within  less  than  100  years,  by  conquest. 

The  states  comprising  British  India  are  of  three  distinct  classes  : 
1st.  Those  immediately  under  the  control  of  the  Company,  styled 
Presidencies,  and  governed  by  its  own  officers.  2d.  The  tributary 
or  dependent  states.  These  are  mere  vassals :  their  towns  and 
fortresses  are  garrisoned  by  British  troops,  and  the  really  effective 
government  is  vested  in  persons  styled  Residents,  appointed  by  the 
Company,  and  stationed  at  the  courts  of  the  subject  princes.  3d. 
The  allied,  or  protected  states.  These,  though  nominally  inde- 
pendent, are  so  far  under  the  control  of  the  Company,  that  no 
movement  of  any  importance  can  be  made  without  its  approbation 
and  concurrence. 


464 


ASIA. 


ESTIMATE  OF  THE  EXTENT  AND  POPULATION  OF  BRITISH  INDIA. 
The  Presidencies. 

Square  Miles.  Population. 


Presidency  of  Bengal . . 
Presidency  of  Madras. 
Presidency  of  Bombay . 


67,000,000 

12,000,000 

6,000,000 


85,000,000 


Vassal  States. 


The  Nizam 

The  Nabob  of  Oude.... 
The  Rajah  of  Nagpore . 
The  Rajah  of  Mysore.. 
The  Rajah  of  Satara. . . 
The  Rajah  of  Indore . . . 
Travancore  and  Cochin. 


96,000 

10,000,000 

20,000 

3,000,000 

70,000 

3,000,000 

27,000 

3,000,000 

14,000 

1,500,000 

15,000 

1,500,000 

8,000 

1,000,000 

250,000 

23,000,000 

Allied,  or  Protected  States. 


18,000 
276,000 

2,000,000 
13,000,000 

294,000 

15,000,000 

The  kingdom  of  Baroda 

Rajpootana,  comprising  Marwar,  Mewar, 
Jyepore,  Bickanere,  Jesselmere,  &c. . . 


To  this  list  must  be  added  the  island  of  Ceylon,  which  is  a 
royal  colony,  and  contains,  on  25,000  square  miles,  nearly 
1,000,000  inhabitants;  making  the  grand  total  of  British  India, 
above  1,000,000  square  miles,  with  a  population  of  124,000,000 
souls. 

The  government  of  British  India  is  vested  in  the  Court  of  Direc- 
tors of  the  East  India  Company,  who  reside  in  London.  This  body 
is  under  the  authority  of  a  Board  of  Commissioners,  consisting  of 
several  of  the  chief  ministers  of  the  Crown,  and  commonly  called 
the  Board  of  Control.  The  President  of  Bengal  is  styled  the  Go- 
vernor-General of  India.  He  is  empowered  in  council  to  legislate 
for  that  country,  under  certain  limitations,  and  subject  to  the  revi- 
sion of  the  Board  of  Control  and  the  Court  of  Directors.  The 
council  consists  of  four  members,  besides  the  governor,  appointed 
by  the  directors,  with  the  royal  sanction. 

The  other  presidents  in  council  possess  the  same  authority, 
within  their  respective  governments,  but  subject,  in  all  matters  of 
general  policy,  to  the  Governor-General,  who  has  the  power  of 


HINDOOSTAN. 


View  in  Calcutta,  the  Capital  of  British  India. 

Calcutta  fell  into  the  possesaion  of  the  East  India  Company  about  eighty  years  ago.    In  1696, 

the  Emperor  Aurengzebe  allowed  some  English  merchants  to  establish  a  factory,  which  they 

soon  afterwards  strengthened  by  a  fort.    This  was  the  beginning  of  that  power  which  now 

extends  over  nearly  the  whole  of  Hindoostan,  and  governs  more  than  120  millions  of  men. 


View  in  Benares,  Hindoostan. 
Benares  is  accounted  by  the  Hindoos  the  most  ancient  and  holy  city  in  the  world.  It  is  the 
grand  depository  of  their  religion  and  learning,  and  contains  a  vast  number  of  temples  anci 
mosques ;  none  of  which,  however,  are  equal  to  a  few  that  exist  in  some  other  parts  of  India. 
The  greatest  of  them  was  destroyed  by  Aurengzebe,  who,  in  its  stead,  erected  a  mosque ; 
which  now  forms  the  principal  ornament  of  Benares. 


Fortified  Palace  at  Allahabad,  Hindoostan. 

The  Fortified  Palace  of  Allahabad  stands  on  the  points  of  land  formed  by  the  junction  of 

the  Ganges  and  Jumna  rivers.    It  was  commenced  by  the  Emperor  Akbar,  and  finished  after 

hie  death.    This  fortress  is  of  great  extent,  and  commands  completely  the  navigation  of  both 

rivers.    The  English  have  made  it  a  grand  military  depot  for  the  upper  provinces  of  Hindoostan- 

623 


ASIA. 


Taje  Mahal,  or  Crown  of  Edifices,  at  Agra. 
The  Taje  Mahal  was  erected  by  Shah  Jehan,  in  memory  of  his  Sultana,  who  died  in  1632 
It  is  an  unrivalled  edifice  of  its  kind  |  and  cost,  it  is  said,  three  and  a  half  million  dollars. 


Gate  10  the  Mausoleum  of  the  Emperor  Akbar. 
Secundra,  a  ruined  town,  a  few  miles  from  Agra,  contains  the  splendid  ornamented  tomb  of 
the  Emperor  Akbar,  who  died  in  1604.    This  edifice  is  constructed  entirely  of  white  marble; 
engraved  on  it  is  the  Bimple  inscription,  "  Akbar,  the  Admirable." 


Jumna  Musjeed,  at  Delhi. 
The  Jumna  Musjeed  is  a  superb  mosque,  261  feet  long.    It  was  erected  by  a  daughter  of 
Aurengzebe,  of  red  granite,  inlaid  with  white  marble.    It  is  the  finest  structure  in  India  dedi- 
cated to  Moslem  worship. 


Gwalior,  lliu  Capital  of  Scindiah'e  Dominions,  Hindoostan. 
Cwalior  is  one  of  the  strongest  forts  in  the  East,  and  was  long  considered  impregnable.    It 
v.  is  taken  by  the  British  in  1780,  and  again  taken  in  1801.    Subsequently,  it  was  ceded  to  the 
JUahratta  Chief,  Scindiah,  who  made  it  the  capital  of  his  dominions. 

624 


INDIA.  465 

declaring  war,  making  peace,  and  concluding  treaties ;  and,  as 
captain-general,  may  head  the  military  operations  in  any  part  of 
the  country. 

British  India  is  held  in  subjection  by  an  army,  composed  for  the 
most  part  of  Hindoos,  officered  and  disciplined  by  Europeans. 
Their  number  amounts  to  about  200,000  men.  The  purely  British 
troops,  maintained  by  the  company,  do  not  exceed  8000 ;  but  a 
large  body  of  the  royal  forces  is  always  employed  in  India:  these, 
at  present,  are  about  20,000  in  number. 

The  territorial  power  of  Great  Britain,  in  Hindoostan,  was 
founded,  originally,  on  the  ruins  of  that  of  the  Portuguese,  Dutch, 
and  French.  In  the  year  1600,  the  East  India  Company  was 
formed  by  Queen  Elizabeth.  Its  members  were,  at  the  outset, 
mere  traders ;  in  time,  however,  they  built  factories,  and  erected 
fortresses  in  various  parts  of  India,  but  acquired  no  actual  posses- 
sions of  any  extent,  until  the  successes  of  Lord  Clive,  in  the  war 
of  1756,  gave  them  a  decided  preponderance  over  the  power  of 
their  European  and  native  rivals. 

Subsequently  the  subversion  of  the  Mogul  empire,  the  kingdom 
of  Mysore,  and  that  of  the  Zamorin,  with  the  prostration  of  the 
Mahratta  confederacy,  has  enabled  the  company  to  form  the  whole 
of  its  acquisitions  into  a  mighty  empire,  the  greatest  in  population, 
with  one  exception,  in  the  world. 

BENGAL. 

The  Presidency  of  Bengal  comprises  a  number  of  fertile  pro- 
ductive provinces,  lying  chiefly  on  both  sides  of  the  Ganges  river, 
and  extending  into  the  interior,  upwards  of  a  thousand  miles  from 
the  sea-coast ;  it  also  stretches  along  the  northern  and  north- 
western shores  of  the  Bay  of  Bengal,  for  a  distance  of  more  than 
450  miles. 

Bengal  is  the  largest  and  most  valuable  division  of  British  India  ; 
it  forms  within  itself  a  rich  empire,  as  extensive  as  that  of  Austria, 
but  with  more  than  double  the  number  of  inhabitants.  It  com- 
prises the  provinces  of  Bengal,  Bahar,  Allahabad,  Oude,  Agra, 
Delhi,  Gurwal,  Adjimere,  and  Orissa. 

Calcutta,  the  capital  of  British  India,  and  the  residence  of  the 
Governor-General,  is  situated  on  the  Hoogly  branch  of  the  Ganges, 
100  miles  from  the  sea ;  it  contains  500,000  inhabitants,  and  com- 
prises, properly,  two  divisions,  the  English  and  Black  towns ;  the 
former,  called  Chouringee,  is  inhabited  by  the  European  popula- 
tion, and  is  a  city  of  palaces,  displaying  all  the  splendour  and 
magnificence  of  Grecian  architecture. 

The  Black  town,  inhabited  by  the  Hindoos,  comprises  much 
the  greater  part  of  the  city,  and  consists  of  miserable  cottages  of 

3C  625 


466  ASIA. 

mud  and  bamboo.  Many  of  the  public  buildings  of  Calcutta  are 
important  and  spacious.  The  government  house  is  a  very  splen- 
did and  costly  structure  ;  and  Fort  William,  the  strongest  military 
work  in  British  India,  is  so  extensive,  as  to  require,  in  case  of  a 
siege,  10,000  or  15,000  men  to  garrison  it. 

Benevolent  institutions  are  numerous  in  Calcutta  ;  and  there  are 
a  number  of  schools  for  the  instruction  of  the  natives  in  Christian 
learning;  also  11  Protestant  churches,  3  Catholic,  1  Armenian, 
and  1  Greek,  besides  various  chapels  for  the  Hindoos.  Several 
newspapers,  conducted  by  natives,  are  published  in  the  language 
of  the  country,  as  well  as  various  gazettes,  journals,  and  other  pe- 
riodicals for  English  readers. 

Serampore,  on  the  Hoogly  river,  12  miles  above  Calcutta,  is  a 
town  of  12,000  inhabitants,  belonging  to  Denmark  ;  it  is  interest- 
ing as  the  seat  of  the  Baptist  missionaries,  who  have,  for  more 
than  30  years,  distinguished  themselves  by  such  learned  and  ex- 
tensive labours  in  the  missionary  cause.  They  have  a  printing- 
office  here,  at  which  the  scriptures  have  been  printed  in  a  number 
of  Eastern  languages,  and  a  college  for  the  education  of  native 
preachers  is  also  established. 

Dacca  was  the  capital  of  Bengal  in  the  reign  of  Jehangire,  and 
is  still  a  very  large  city.  It  contains  150,000  inhabitants,  but  dis- 
plays no  particular  splendour,  though  it  is  the  seat  of  a  great  trade. 
It  stands  on  the  Boor  Gunga,  or  old  Ganges,  100  miles  from  the 
sea,  and  150  north-east  from  Calcutta. 

Moorshedabad,  on  the  same  river  as  Calcutta,  is  famous  for  its 
silk  manufactures:  it  contains  130,000  inhabitants.  Patna  is  a 
place  of  great  antiquity,  supposed  to  be  the  Palibothra  of  the  an- 
cient geographers ;  its  present  prosperity  depends  chiefly  upon  the 
fertility  and  high  cultivation  of  the  district  in  which  it  is  situated. 

Benares,  the  Athens  of  the  Hindoos,  stands  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  river  Ganges,  about  900  miles  from  the  Gulf  of  Bengal.  It 
may  be  said  to  form  the  grand  depository  of  the  religion  and 
learning  of  this  vast  country.  Its  sacred  character,  which  is  sup- 
posed to  insure  the  salvation  of  all  who  die  within  its  precincts, 
renders  Benares  a  scene  of  crowded  resort.  Its  population  of 
200,000  is  augmented,  at  solemn  seasons,  by  pilgrims,  to  double 
that  amount.  The  city  contains  a  great  number  of  temples  and 
mosques ;  its  houses  are  more  lofty,  and  better  built,  than  those 
of  Indian  cities  generally. 

Allahabad,  at  the  junction  of  the  Ganges  and  Jumna  rivers,  is 
regarded  as  particularly  holy,  and  is  annually  visited  by  thousands 
of  pilgrims,  who  endeavour  to  secure  their  happiness  in  the  next 
world,  by  seeking  death  in  their  hallowed  stream.  The  most  ap- 
proved mode  has  been  for  the  devotee  to  cut  off  his  own  head,  and 


HINDOOSTAN. 


Fortress  of  Chunarghur. 
Chunarghur  is  one  of  the  strongest  of  the  Indian  hill-forts.    It  was  ceded  by  the  nabob  of 
Oude  to  the  British,  who  have  converted  it  into  a  great  military  station. 


Mosque  at  Chunarghur. 
The  Mosque  of  Chunarghur  is  one  of  the  finest  specimens  of  that  description  of  architecture 
tiisting  in  India. 


Minaret,  at  Gour.  Cuttub  Minar,  at  Delhi. 

Gour,  situated  on  a  branch  of  the  Ganges,  was  the  capital  of  Bengal,  during  the  thirteenth, 
fourteenth,  and  fifteenth  centuries.  It  was  a  largo  city,  and  its  ruins  extend  fifteen  miles. 
One  minaret,  the  most  entire  remaining,  displays  traces  of  peculiar  taste  and  skill. 

The  Cuttub  Minar  is  a  superb  tower,  21'.!  feet  high.  It  rises  in  five  stages,  the  three  first  of 
which  are  of  red  granite,  and  the  others  of  white  marble. 


ASIA. 


Seringapatam,  in  Mysore,  Southern  Hindoostan. 
Seringapatam  was,  fifty  years  ago,  the  capital  of  Tippoo  Saib's  dominions,  and  a  large  and 
populous  city,  but  since  his  death  it  has  lost  its  importance.    This  city  was  twice  captured  by 
the  British,  and  now  belongs  to  them. 


J? 


vt"A 


Pagoda,  at  Tanjore. 


T    I 


Pasoda,  at  Madura. 

The  buildings  called  Pagodas  are  the  temples  of  the  Hindoos;  some  of  them  are  of  great 

s'zc  and  height,  and  are  embellished  with  much  splendour.    In  the  interior  of  these  edifices, 

besides  altars,  and  6tatues  of  the  gods,  there  are  often  many  curiosities.    The  pagodas  of 

Tanjore  and  Madura  are  among  the  finest  specimens  of  that  kind  of  structure  in  India. 


INDIA.  4G7 

allow  it  to  drop  into  the  water,  an  offering  to  the  deity  of  the  river. 
This  city  is  much  reduced,  its  inhabitants  amounting  only  to 
20,000 :  its  citadel  is  considered  one  of  the  strongest  military 
works  in  British  India,  and  is  garrisoned  by  the  Company's  troops. 

Agra,  on  the  Jumna,  once  a  splendid  capital,  is  now  almost  all 
in  ruins,  but  still  contains  60,000  inhabitants.  The  Taje  Mahal, 
or  mausoleum  of  the  favourite  Sultana  of  Shah  Jehan,  is  tbe  finest 
tomb  in  the  world.  It  is  composed  of  white  marble,  and  inlaid 
with  precious  stones.  The  mausoleum  of  Akbar,  six  miles  distant, 
is  but  little  inferior  to  this. 

Delhi,  on  the  banks  of  the  Jumna,  now  mouldering  in  decay, 
was,  in  early  times,  a  great  Hindoo  metropolis.  In  the  middle  of 
the  seventeenth  century  it  became  the  chief  seat  of  Mogul  do- 
minion, and  such  it  continued  until  the  downfal  of  that  empire. 
During  the  reign  of  Aurengzebe,  it  was  computed  to  contain 
2,000,000  inhabitants,  and  was,  no  doubt,  the  richest  city  in  the 
East.  In  1739,  Delhi  was  plundered  by  Nadir  Shah,  when 
100,000  of  the  inhabitants  were  massacred,  and  plunder  to  the 
amount  of  300  million  dollars  was  collected.  The  inhabited  part 
of  Delhi  still  forms  rather  a  handsome  city ;  it  is  adorned  with 
many  beautiful  mosques  and  other  buildings.  The  remains  of  a 
number  of  splendid  palaces,  once  the  habitations  of  the  most  po- 
tent monarchs  of  India,  are  yet  to  be  seen. 

Juggernaut,  a  celebrated  place  of  Hindoo  worship,  is  situated  on 
the  sea-shore,  about  300  miles  south-west  from  Calcutta.  It  is 
renowned  throughout  all  India  ;  and  a  million  of  devotees  are  sup- 
posed to  visit  it  annually.  The  pagoda,  or  temple,  is  a  pyramidal 
building,  200  feet  high ;  at  great  festivals,  the  idol,  Juggernaut,  is 
dragged  about,  on  an  immense  car,  under  the  wheels  of  which  the 
fanatic  devotees  throw  themselves,  and  are  crushed  to  death,  hav- 
ing earned,  according  to  Hindoo  belief,  a  sure  passport  to  happi- 
ness in  the  next  world. 

MADRAS. 

The  Presidency  of  Madras  stretches  along  the  east,  or  Coro- 
mandel  coast  of  Hindoostan,  1000  miles  north  from  CapeComorin, 
and  on  the  west,  or  Malabar  coast,  an  extent  of  500  miles  north- 
ward from  the  same  point.  It  includes,  excepting  Mysore  and 
Travancore,  the  whole  country  lying  south  of  the  Krishna  river, 
besides  a  territory  extending  along  the  coast  of  the  Bay  of  Bengal, 
north-eastward  from  the  Krishna,  almost  400  miles  in  length. 
Madras  comprehends  the  provinces  of  the  Carnatic,  Coimbetore, 
Mysore,  Malabar,  Canara,  Balaghaut,  and  the  northern  Circars. 

Madras,  the  capital,  is  a  large,  populous,  and  well-built  city 
It  presents  a  singular  mixture  of  pagodas,  minarets,  mosques,  and 

3C*  629 


4G8  ASIA. 

gardens,  and  consists  of  two  distinct  quarters,  the  White  and  the 
Black  town.  It  has  no  harbour,  but  a  mere  open  roadstead ;  yet 
it  has  a  considerable  commerce.  On  the  beach  breaks  so  strono- 
and  continual  a  surf,  that  only  a  peculiar  species  of  large  light 
boats  can,  by  the  dexterous  management  of  the  natives,  be  rowed 
across  it.  For  the  conveyance,  also,  of  letters  and  messages,  they 
employ  what  is  called  a  catamaran,  consisting  merely  of  two 
planks  fastened  together,  with  which  they  encounter  the  roughest 
seas.  The  city  has  a  handsome  appearance  from  the  sea,  and 
many  of  its  streets  are  spacious.  The  population  is  estimated  at 
from  300,000  to  420,000. 

Masulipatam,  situated  between  the  mouths  of  the  Krishna  and 
Godavery  rivers,  has  the  best  harbour  on  the  coast ;  its  commerce 
is  extensive,  and  is  noted  for  the  fine  and  brilliant  colour  of  its 
cotton-stuffs :  population  75,000.  Trichinopoly,  on  the  Cavery 
river,  is  one  of  the  chief  military  stations  of  the  British,  in  the 
Deccan,  and  contains  80,000  inhabitants.  It  is  celebrated  lor  its 
pagoda,  which  is  pre-eminent  for  magnitude  and  sanctity :  it  is 
four  miles  in  circuit,  and  is  surrounded  by  several  different  inci- 
sures. This  place  is  visited  by  pilgrims  from  all  parts  of  Hin- 
doostan. 

Tanjore,  on  a  branch  of  the  same  stream,  was  once  the  capital 
of  an  independent  kingdom  :  it  contains  30,000  inhabitants.  Man- 
galore  and  Cananore,  both  on  the  western,  or  Malabar  coast,  are 
towns  of  some  importance ;  the  last  is  under  the  control  of  a  fe- 
male ruler,  called  the  Biby,  who  is  tributary  to  the  company  ;  she 
also  claims  sovereignty  over  the  Laccadive  islands. 

Calicut,  on  the  Malabar  coast,  was  the  first  place  in  India  at 
which  the  Portuguese  arrived,  after  the  discovery  of  a  passage 
around  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope ;  it  formed,  at  that  time,  the  capi- 
tal of  the  Zamorin,  the  most  powerful  monarch  in  southern  Hin- 
doostan,  and  was  a  splendid  and  populous  city.  Calicut  was  nearly 
all  destroyed  by  Tippoo  Saib,  but  is  now  reviving :  population 
30,000. 

BOMBAY. 

The  Bombay  Presidency  lies  altogether  on  the  west  side  of  the 
peninsula;  it  stretches  along  the  sea-coast,  southward  from  the 
Gulf  of  Cambay,  for  a  distance  of  450  miles,  and  into  the  interior 
from  100  to  250  miles  in  extent;  its  territories  are  intermingled 
with  those  of  the  Gwickwar,  Holkar,  the  Nizam,  and  the  Rajahs 
of  Nagpore  and  Satara.  It  includes  the  provinces  of  Arungabad, 
Bejapore,  Kandeish,  and  Gujerat. 

Bombay,  the  capital,  is  situated  on  a  small  island,  connected  by 
an  artificial  causeway  with  the  larger  one  of  Salsette.  In  1661, 
it  was  ceded  by  the  Portuguese  to  Charles  II.  as  a  part  of  Queen 


HINDOOSTAN. 


View  in  Bombay,  Western  Hindoostan. 


Entrance  to  the  Cave  Temple  of  Elephanta. 
The  Cave  Temple  of  Elephanta,  in  the  island  of  that  name,  has  been  cut  out  of  the  solid 
rocks.    The  entrances  are  between  four  rows  of  massive  columns,  forming  three  magnificent 
avenues.    The  interior  is  220  by  150  feet,  but  only  fifteen  feet  high. 


Excavated  Mountain  of  Kenneri. 

The  Excavated  Mountain  of  Kenneri,  on  the  island  of  Salsette,  appears  to  have  had  a  city 
hewn  out  of  its  rocky  sides,  capable  of  containing  many  thousand  inhabitants.  There  are 
tanks,  terraces,  flights  of  steps,  &c.    All  these,  however,  have  been  long  deserted. 

631 


ASIA. 


Interior  of  the  Temple  of  Kennert. 
The  excavated  Temple  of  Kenneri  is  smaller  in  extent  than  that  of  Elephanta,  but  it  is 
loftier,  and  adorned  with  more  numerous  ranges  of  columns. 


Bangalore. 
Bangalore,  in  the  southern  part  of  Hindoostan,  is  strongly  fortified  in  the  Indian  manner.    It 
was  once  a  town  of  great  importance,  and  a  royal  residence.    The  palace  built  by  Tippoo 
Saib  is  the  finest  building  in  the  place.    Betel  pepper  and  sandal-wood  are  the  chief  articles  of 
trade. 


Hindoo  Idol  Car,  or  Moving  Tower. 
Some  of  the  Hindoo  idols  are  placed  on  huge  cars  ;  that  of  Juggernaut  is  a  kind  of  tower, 
sixty  feet  high,  moving  on  wheels  ;  several  ropes  are  attached  to  it,  by  which  the  people  draw 
it  along.  When  the  car  is  in  motion,  devout  worshippers  sometimes  place  themselves  on  the 
ground,  so  as  to  be  crushed  to  death  by  the  wheels  ;  and  the  multitude  shout  in  approbation 
of  the  act,  as  a  phasing  sacrifice  to  the  god. 

632 


INDIA.  469 

Catherine's  portion ;  two  or  three  years  after,  a  settlement  was 
established ;  and  in  1686,  the  chief  seat  of  English  trade  was 
transferred  thither  from  Surat.  This  city  is  now  the  great  empo- 
rium of  Western  India,  and  contains  a  population  of  220,000. 
Of  these,  about  8000  are  Parsees,  who  are  the  most  wealthy  of 
the  inhabitants.  There  are  also  Jews,  Mahomedans,  and  Portu- 
guese, in  considerable  numbers ;  but  the  Hindoos  comprise  three- 
fourths  of  the  whole.  Several  missions,  belonging  to  societies  in 
Britain  and  the  United  States,  are  established  here  ;  also  a  number 
of  schools,  for  the  instruction  of  the  natives. 

At  Elephanta,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Bombay,  is  an  ancient 
Hindoo  temple,  of  great  size,  hewn  in  the  solid  rock ;  it  has  three 
entrances,  between  four  rows  of  massive  columns,  and  contains  a 
colossal  statue  of  Siva.  At  Kenneri,  on  the  adjoining  island  of 
Salsette,  is  a  cave-temple,  still  more  lofty,  and  an  excavation  in 
the  hill  is  cut  out  into  tanks,  stairs,  &c. 

Surat,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Tapty  river,  and  about  170  miles 
north  of  Bombay,  was,  at  the  first  arrival  of  Europeans,  the  great- 
est emporium  of  India,  and  at  present  it  ranks  scarcely  second  to 
Calcutta.  Though  it  has  suffered  by  the  rivalry  of  Bombay,  it 
still  carries  on  extensive  manufactures  of  silks,  brocades,  and  fine 
cotton  stuffs  :  population  500,000.  This  city  contains  many  very 
opulent  merchants,  chief!}'  Hindoos  and  Parsees.  The  former 
carry  to  a  great  extent  all  the  peculiarities  of  their  religion,  and 
manifest,  in  a  peculiar  degree,  their  tenderness  for  animal  life,  by 
erecting  hospitals  for  birds,  monkeys,  and  other  animals  accounted 
sacred. 

Poonah,  75  miles  south-east  from  Bombay,  resembles  a  huge 
village  rather  than  a  city ;  the  houses  are  irregularly  built,  chiefly 
of  slight  brick  walls,  by  which  even  the  palace  is  entirely  inclosed. 
This  place  was,  for  a  time,  the  capital  of  the  Mahratta  Confede- 
racy ;  and  at  the  annual  meeting  of  the  confederate  chiefs,  500,000 
persons  have  been  assembled  together,  at  one  time.  Ahmedabad 
was  formerly  more  important  and  populous  than  at  present ;  its 
inhabitants,  however,  still  amount  to  100,000.  In  its  days  of 
prosperity,  it  contained  1000  mosques,  and  was  the  centre  of  a 
vast  commerce ;  not  more  than  a  fourth  of  the  space  within  its 
ancient  wall  is  inhabited. 

Bisnagur,  once  the  capital  of  a  powerful  empire,  is  celebrated 
for  its  extensive  and  gigantic  ruins.  Its  enormous  walls  are  formed 
of  colossal  masses  of  stone  ;  and  one  of  its  streets,  100  feet  wide, 
is  lined,  for  more  than  a  mile,  by  lofty  colonnades,  and  is  paved 
with  huge  blocks  of  granite.  This  place  was  sacked  by  the 
Mahrattas,  about  the  middle  of  the  16th  century. 

40  «» 


470  ASIA. 

TRIBUTARY,  OR  VASSAL  STATES. 

Hydrabad. — The  kingdom  of  Hydrabad  is  governed  by  the 
Nizam,  a  prince  who  was  formerly  a  Viceroy  of  the  Mogul  em- 
pire. His  territories  are  situated  in  the  interior  of  the  Deccan, 
between  the  Godavery  and  Krishna  rivers,  and  are  bounded  on 
the  north  by  Nagpore,  or  Berar,  east  and  south  by  Madras,  and 
west  by  Bombay.  The  whole  region  is  a  table-land  of  some  ele- 
vation, upwards  of  400  miles  in  length,  and  containing  some  fer- 
tile districts  along  the  Godavery.  It  is  without  manufactures  of 
any  consequence,  and  is  one  of  the  worst  governed  states  in  Hin- 
doostan. 

Hydrabad,  the  capital,  is  not  a  fine  city ;  yet  it  contains  some 
handsome  mosques,  and  the  Nizam  maintains,  on  a  small  scale, 
a  semblance  of  Mogul  pomp  :  population  120,000.  Golconda,  six 
miles  from  Hydrabad,  is  a  celebrated  mart  for  the  diamonds  found 
in  the  adjacent  districts,  which  are  the  finest  in  the  world. 

Bejapoor  is  noted  for  its  immense  fort,  which  is  eight  miles  in 
circumference.  Arungabad  was  once  a  celebrated  capital ;  though 
much  decayed,  it  still  contains  60,000  inhabitants.  Ellora,  in  the 
neighbourhood,  is  famous  for  its  magnificent  cave-temples,  of  enor- 
mous size  and  exquisite  finish. 

Oude. — The  kingdom  of  Oude  is  situated  on  the  north  side  of 
the  Ganges,  being  about  600  miles  from  the  Bay  of  Bengal.  It 
is  inclosed  on  the  east,  west,  and  south  by  Bengal,  and  on  the 
north  by  the  kingdom  of  Nepaul :  the  inhabitants  are  about  one- 
third  Mahomedans,  and  the  rest  Hindoos. 

Lucknow,  the  capital,  is  situated  on  the  Goomty,  a  branch  of 
the  Ganges ;  it  contains  several  mosques  and  palaces  with  gilded 
domes,  which  give  it  an  imposing  appearance,  at  a  distance. 
While  the  Nabobs  of  Oude  were  in  full  power,  this  city  was  one 
of  the  most  splendid  in  India :  population  300,000.  Oude,  the 
earlier  capital,  is  in  ruins. 

Nagpore,  or  Berar. — The  kingdom  of  the  Eastern  Mahrat- 
tas  is  situated  in  the  interior  of  the  Deccan,  on  the  head-waters  of 
the  Godavery  and  Mahanuddy  rivers,  and  very  nearly  central  be- 
tween the  northern  and  southern,  and  eastern  and  western  bound- 
aries of  Hindoostan.  Parts  of  this  state  comprise  some  fertile 
and  well-cultivated  districts:  others  are  among  the  least  valuable 
in  Central  India. 

Nagpore,  the  capital,  is  a  town  of  modern  date ;  it  is  neatly 
built,  and  situated  on  a  tributary  of  the  Godavery  river.  Gawhil- 
gur,  the  strongest  military  work  in  this  state,  is  erected  on  a  high, 

634 


INDIA.  471 

rocky  hill ;  it  consists  of  an  outer  and  inner  fortress :  previous  to 
its  capture  by  the  Company's  troops,  it  was  deemed  impregnable. 

Mvsore,  the  dominion  of  the  celebrated  Hyder  AH,  and  his 
son,  Tippoo  Saib,  was  a  powerful  independent  kingdom  at  the 
close  of  the  last  century,  but  was  conquered  by  the  Company  in 
the  year  1799,  and  placed  under  the  government  of  a  prince,  le- 
gally descended  from  the  ancient  dynasty.  This  state  is  situated 
in  the  southern  part  of  the  Deccan,  and  is  encompassed  on  every 
side  by  the  territories  of  the  Madras  Presidency.  The  country 
forms  a  high,  fertile  table-land,  elevated,  generally,  about  3000 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean,  and  is  watered  by  the  head 
streams  of  the  Krishna  and  Cavery  rivers. 

Mysore,  the  capital,  long  a  decayed  town,  has  been  rebuilt  by 
the  present  rajah,  and  has  a  population  of  60,000.  Seringapa- 
tam,  the  renowned  capital  of  Tippoo  Saib,  was  formerly  a  strongly 
fortified  and  important  place,  but  is  now  in  a  state  of  decline  ;  and 
the  inhabitants,  once  150,000  in  number,  are  reduced  to  10,000. 

Satara,  the  kingdom  of  the  Western  Mahrattas,  is  situated  on 
the  west  side  of  the  Deccan :  it  comprises  an  elevated  table-land, 
stretching  along  the  eastern  base  of  the  Ghaut  mountains,  and 
watered  by  the  upper  branches  of  the  Krishna  river.  This  state 
is  encompassed  on  every  side  by  the  territories'  of  the  Bombay 
Presidency.  It  extends  about  160  miles  in  length,  and  from  60 
to  120  in  breadth.     Satara,  a  strong  hill-fort,  is  the  capital. 

Indore. — The  kingdom  of  Indore,  or  the  domain  of  Holkar, 
a  Mahratta  chief,  is  situated  in  the  western  part  of  Hindoostan, 
and  on  both  sides  of  the  Nerbuddah  river,  at  a  distance  of  from 
100  to  200  miles  eastward  from  the  Gulf  of  Cambay. 

It  forms  a  compact  territory  of  about  160  miles  in  length  and 
100  in  breadth.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  and  east  by  the  do- 
minions of  Scindiah,  and  on  the  west  and  south  by  those  of  the 
Bombay  Presidency.  The  Vindhaya  mountains  intersect  this  state, 
on  the  north  of  the  Nerbuddah  river,  from  east  to  west.  Indore 
the  capital,  is  a  modern-built  town  of  but  little  importance. 

Travancore  and  Cochin  form  a  territory,  occupying  the 
most  south-western  part  of  the  Deccan.  It  stretches  northward 
from  Cape  Comorin  along  the  Malabar  coast  for  250  miles,  and 
from  the  Ghauts  to  the  sea-shore,  from  50  to  75  miles.  The  first 
named  is  the  largest  and  most  southern  division  :  it  is  one  of  the 
most  fertile  districts  of  India,  and  is  celebrated  for  its  pepper,  gin- 
ger, nutmegs,  and  cinnamon. 

The  city  of  Travancore  was  the  ancient  capital ;  but  Trivanda- 
patam  is  now  the  residence  of  the  rajah. 


472  ASIA. 

Cochin  is  a  small  district  lying  northward  of  Travancore ;  it  is 
noted  for  the  abundance  of  its  teak  timber.  The  inhabitants,  be- 
sides Hindoos,  comprise  Jews,  both  black  and  white,  and  Chris- 
tians ;  the  latter  are  the  descendants  of  converts,  made,  it  is  sup- 
posed, by  St.  Thomas.  Their  existence  was  unknown  to  Euro- 
peans until  the  time  when  Vasco  de  Gama  arrived  on  the  Malabar 
coast.  Part  of  these  people  are  Catholics,  and  part  are  similar  in 
their  doctrines  and  worship,  to  the  Protestants  of  Europe  and 
America.  The  former  were  converted  by  the  Portuguese  mis- 
sionaries. 


ALLIED,  OR  PROTECTED  STATES. 

Baroda. — The  kingdom  of  the  Gwickwar,  or  of  Baroda,  occu- 
pies the  chief  part  of  Gujerat,  situated  between  the  Gulfs  of  Cam- 
bay  and  Cutch  :  it  extends  inland  near  300  miles,  and  consists  of 
several  detached  districts,  intermingled  with  the  territories  of  Bom- 
bay, Scindiah,  Holkar,  and  the  Rajpoot  principalities.  The  people 
of  the  coast  have  been  long  noted  for  their  acts  of  piracy :  they 
comprise  several  peculiar  races,  as  Bheels,  Coolies,  Grassias,  Jains, 
&c. ;  also,  a  number  of  Parsees,  or  fire-worshippers. 

Baroda,  the  capital,  is  a  flourishing  city,  containing  100,000  in- 
habitants. Cambay,  at  the  head  of  the  gulf  of  the  same  name,  is 
much  less  important  than  formerly  ;  but  still  carries  on  some  com- 
merce. 

Rajpootana  is,  next  to  Sinde,  the  most  western  division  of 
Hindoostan.  Some  of  its  districts  are  intermingled  with  the  Great 
Sandy  Desert  that  extends  eastward  of  the  Indus,  and  are  barren, 
and  thinly  inhabited ;  while  the  eastern  divisions,  watered  by  the 
Chumbull,  theLonee,  the  Myhie,  and  other  streams,  are  fertile  and 
populous. 

The  chief  part  of  the  people  are  Rajpoots,  who  differ  essentially 
from  the  other  Indian  nations  both  in  figure  and  character,  being 
tall,  athletic,  and  warlike  in  their  habits :  though  somewhat  turbu- 
lent and  violent,  they  possess  sentiments  of  honour  and  generosity 
unknown  to  the  other  Hindoos  ;  they  treat  their  women  with  more 
respect  than  Asiatics  generally,  and  the  higher  classes  even  regard 
them,  it  is  said,  with  something  of  that  romantic  gallantry  which 
prevailed  in  Europe  during  the  middle  ages. 

The  Rajpoots  are  guilty  of  a  dreadful  enormity,  many  of  the 
female  children,  of  the  higher  classes,  being  murdered  by  their 
parents  at  the  moment  of  birth ;  a  practice  said  to  be  prompted  by 
the  difficulty  of  procuring  marriages  for  their  daughters,  suitable  to 
the  supposed  dignity  of  their  families. 


INDIA.  473 

This  region  is  divided  into  a  number  of  petty  states,  under  the 
control  of  chiefs,  or  rajahs,  independent  of  each  other,  but  all  in 
alliance  with  the  East  India  Company.  The  principal  Rajpoot 
states  are  those  of  Marwar,  Mewar,  Jyepore,  Bickanere,  and  Jes- 
selmere.  Adjimere,  with  a  small  surrounding  territory,  is  imme- 
diately subject  to  the  Company. 

The  chief  towns  in  Rajpootana  are  Joudpore,  the  capital  of 
Marwar  ;  Oodipore,  the  capital  of  Mewar;  with  Bickanere,  Jyepore, 
and  Adjimere,  each  the  capital  of  the  states  of  the  same  name. 
The  palace  of  Oodipore,  on  the  borders  of  a  beautiful  lake,  is  pecu- 
liarly splendid ;  and  that  of  Jugmendar,  on  an  island  in  another 
lake,  presents  an  almost  magic  scene. 

Cutch,  the  most  southern  Rajpoot  state,  is  situated  to  the  north- 
ward of  the  gulf  of  that  name.  The  people  are  called  Jharejahs  : 
they  are  noted  pirates,  and  carry  the  crime  of  infanticide  to  a 
greater  extent  than  any  other  race.  The  British  government,  in  a 
late  treaty  with  the  Row  and  the  principal  chiefs,  stipulated  that 
the  practice  should  be  discontinued.  Bhooj  and  Mandavie  are  the 
chief  towns. 

There  are,  also,  a  number  of  smaller  states,  in  various  parts  of 
Hindoostan,  tributary  to  the  Company.  Some  of  the  principal  are 
Rewah,  Bhopal,  and  Boondee,  lying  on  the  southern  branches  of 
the  Ganges  and  Jumna ;  Sikim,  situated  between  Nepaul  and 
Bootan  ;  Kurnaul,  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Krishna ;  Kolapore,  on 
the  head  waters  of  the  same  stream ;  and  various  others,  some  of 
which  comprise  a  very  small  amount  of  territory.  The  whole  of 
these  contain,  perhaps,  a  population  of  2,500,000. 


INDEPENDENT   STATES. 
LAHORE. 

The  most  important  independent  state  in  Hindoostan  is  the 
kingdom  of  Lahore,  or  the  confederation  of  the  Seiks.  This  re- 
markable people  began  their  career  as  a  religious  sect,  adopting  a 
sort  of  combination  of  the  Hindoo  and  Mahomedan  creeds.  Their 
territories  lie  between  the  Indus  and  the  Sutlege  rivers,  and  the 
Himmaieh  mountains,  and  comprise  Lahore,  Cashmere,  and  Moul- 
tan,  with  a  small  district  situated  between  the  Sutlege  and  the 
Jumna,  and  north  of  Delhi.  The  whole  comprises  an  area  of 
70,000  square  miles,  and  4,000,000  inhabitants. 

The  government  of  Lahore  forms  a  species  of  theocracy,  under 
a  body  of  chiefs,  uniting  the  different  characters  of  priests,  war- 
riors, and  statesmen.     Disunion  for  a  time  prevailed  among  them, 

40  *  3D  637 


474  ASIA. 

but  they  were  at  length  united  under  the  almost  absolute  sway  of 
the  late  Runjeet  Sing. 

This  able  and  politic  prince  ruled  with  vigour  and  justice ;  and 
left  his  kingdom  in  a  prosperous  and  flourishing  condition.  He 
maintained  a  powerful  army,  organized  in  the  European  manner, 
and  disciplined  by  French  officers.  This  monarch  was  supposed 
to  have  accumulated  a  large  treasure;  and  accordingly,  at  his 
decease,  in  1839,  it  was  found  to  amount  to  the  vast  sum  of  100 
millions  of  dollars  ;  and  a  diamond  that  belonged  to  him,  said  to 
be  the  largest  in  the  world,  was  valued  at  2|  millions. 

Lahore,  the  capital,  is  an  important  city,  and  situated  in  the 
midst  of  a  fertile  and  well-cultivated  country :  population,  80,000. 
Umritsir  is  the  holy  city  of  the  Seiks,  and  the  seat  of  their  great 
national  council.  It  contains  the  celebrated  well  of  immortality, 
which,  the  Hindoos  believe,  has  power  to  wash  away  all  sin.  In 
the  sacred  basin  is  a  temple  served  by  500  priests.  The  popula- 
tion is  estimated  at  about  100,000. 

The  city  of  Cashmere,  the  largest  in  the  Seik  dominions,  con- 
tains 100,000  inhabitants:  it  stands  on  the  Jylum,  in  the  most 
northern  part  of  Hindoostan,  and  is  noted  lor  its  manufactures  of 
the  finest  shawls  in  the  world.  The  beauty  of  its  situation  has 
also  been  widely  celebrated ;  particularly  its  lake,  studded  with 
numberless  islands,  green  with  gardens  and  groves,  and  having 
its  banks  environed  with  villas  and  ornamental  grounds. 

NEPAUL. 

The  territories  of  this  state  stretch  along  the  base  of  the  Him- 
maleh  mountains,  from  south-east  to  north-west,  for  a  distance 
of  more  than  500  miles  in  length,  and  about  100  in  breadth.  Area, 
50,000  square  miles  :  population,  3,000,000.  The  greater  part  of 
the  country  is  elevated  4000  or  5000  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  It  is  well-watered  and  fertile,  and  enjoys  the  climate  of  the 
south  of  Europe. 

The  population  is  composed  of  two  races ;  the  Newars,  who  form 
the  bulk  of  the  nation,  and  the  Bramins,  who  are  the  rulers.  The 
whole  region  is  subjected  to  the  military  government  of  the  rajahs 
of  Gorkwha,  originally  masters  only  of  a  small  territory  of  that 
name,  on  the  western  frontier  of  Nepaul. 

Katmandoo,  the  capital,  was  said  to  contain,  a  few  years  ago, 
20,000  houses  :  of  these,  one-half  were  destroyed  by  an  earthquake, 
in  the  spring  of  1834. 

BOOTAN. 

This  country,  situated  south-eastward  of  Nepaul,  is  similar  in 
aspect  to  the  latter ;  it  is  about  250  miles  long  and  about  100  wide. 

638 


INDIA.  475 

The  natives,  called  Bootees,  are  entirely  unlike  the  people  of  Hin- 
doostan,  and  appear  to  be  of  the  Mongol  race :  they  have  none 
of  the  Hindoo  scruples,  relative  to  animal  food  and  spiritous  liquors. 
The  religion  is  that  of  the  Lama  of  Thibet ;  and  Bootan  is,  to- 
gether with  that  country,  under  the  protection  of  China. 

Tassisudon,  the  capital,  is  a  city  of  some  extent,  and  is  the  re- 
sidence of  a  prince  called  the  Deb  Rajah;  its  chief  manufactures 
are  brazen  images,  and  paper  made  of  bark. 

DOMINIONS  OF  SCINDIAH. 

Scindiah  is  the  only  Mahratta  chief  that  possesses  any  share  of 
independence ;  his  domains  are  situated  in  the  interior  of  Hindoos- 
tan,  and  intirely  encompassed  by  Bengal,  the  Rajpoot  states,  and 
those  of  Baroda,  Indore,  and  Bombay.  They  form  an  irregular- 
shaped  territory,  extending  about  450  miles  south-westward  from 
the  Jumna  river  towards  the  Gulf  of  Cambay.  The  Chumbull, 
the  Scinde,  the  Betwah,  and  other  branches  of  the  Jumna,  are 
the  principal  rivers.  Area,  40,000  square  miles :  population, 
4,000,000. 

Gwalior  the  capital,  contains  80,000  inhabitants.  It  is  a  place 
of  great  natural  strength  ;  is  strongly  fortified,  and  was  once  sup- 
posed to  be  impregnable :  the  citadel  is  situated  on  a  rock,  340 
feet  high.  Oojein  is  celebrated  among  the  Hindoos  for  its  schools 
and  its  observatory  :  it  was  the  place  adopted  by  the  Hindoo  geo- 
graphers for  their  first  meridian:  population,  100,000. 

SINDE. 

The  Principality  of  Sinde  occupies  the  country  on  both  sides 
of  the  lower  part  of  the  Indus ;  it  is,  however,  situated  chiefly  on 
the  eastern  bank  of  the  river,  and  extends,  upwards  from  the  sea, 
nearly  400  miles :  it  contains  an  area  of  40,000  square  miles, 
and  1,000,000  inhabitants. 

This  state  was  once  highly  flourishing  and  fertile,  but  the  des- 
potic government  of  its  Ameers,  or  chiefs,  has  rendered  it  much 
less  important  than  formerly.  Sinde  has  hitherto  ranked  as  in- 
dependent ;  but  it  was  conquered  by  a  British  army  in  the  early 
part  of  1839,  and  its  rulers  were  obliged  to  purchase  a  peace  by 
the  payment  of  a  considerable  sum  of  money. 

Hyderabad,  the  capital,  is  a  fortified  town,  situated  on  a  rock, 
about  two  miles  from  the  Indus,  and  on  a  branch  of  that  stream, 
which  here  forms  an  island:  population,  15,000.  Tatta  was  for- 
merly a  large  commercial  city,  and  various  European  factories 
were  established  here :  though  nearly  all  in  ruins,  it  has  a  popula- 
tion of  20,000  inhabitants.  Kurachie,  near  the  mouth  of  one  of 
the  estuaries  of  the  Indus,  is  the  chief  sea-port  of  Sinde. 


476  ASIA. 

EUROPEAN   COLONIES. 

Besides  the  vast  regions  in  Hindoostan,  under  the  sway  of  Great 
Britain,  the  monarchs  of  Portugal,  France,  and  Denmark,  possess 
a  few  small  settlements,  chiefly  the  scanty  remains  of  much  larger 
territories. 

The  Portuguese,  whose  settlements  were  formerly  so  nu- 
merous on  the  coasts  and  in  the  islands  of  India,  have  preserved 
the  city  of  Goa,  with  a  small  adjacent  territory;  also,  Damaan, 
situated  southward  of  Surat,  and  Diu,  in  Gujerat,  a  place  import- 
ant for  the  construction  of  vessels ;  both  these  towns  have  petty 
territories  attached  to  them.  Altogether  the  Portuguese  posses- 
sions comprise  an  area  of  about  1200  square  miles,  and  420,000 
inhabitants. 

The  French  Settlements  comprehend  the  government  of 
Pondicherry,  with  the  towns  of  Pondicherry  and  Karical,  on  the 
coast  of  Coromandel,  and  a  few  other  places,  among  which,  Chan- 
dernagor  in  Bengal,  and  Mahe  on  the  coast  of  Malabar,  are  the 
most  important.  The  area  of  the  whole  does  not  exceed  450 
square  miles,  with  a  population  of  160,000  individuals. 

The  Danish  Colonies  consist  of  the  town  of  Tranquebar, 
and  its  territory,  on  the  coast  of  Coromandel,  a  place  remarkable 
for  the  influence  which  the  missionary  establishment  of  the  Pro- 
testant creed,  which  was  erected  here  more  early  than  in  other 
places,  exercised  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  Danes  have  also  a 
small  settlement  at  Serampore,  on  the  Ganges.  The  population 
of  the  whole  is  about  60,000. 

Ceylon,  lying  to  the  south  of  Hindoostan,  is  a  large  and  beau- 
tiful island,  near  300  miles  in  length,  and  containing  25,000  square 
miles.  It  is  traversed  in  the  interior  by  a  range  of  mountains,  one 
of  which,  Adam's  Peak,  is  6152  feet  in  height.  Here  the  Cinga- 
lese and  Hindoos  worship  the  colossal-  footsteps  of  Adam,  who,  as 
they  believe,  was  created  on  this  mountain,  and,  according  to  the 
Buddhists,  is  Buddha  himself. 

This  island  produces  cinnamon,  for  which  it  is  famous  ;  the  other 
products  are  rice,  cotton,  ginger,  coffee,  pepper,  &c.  A  great  va- 
riety of  precious  stones  are  found  here ;  the  diamond,  ruby,  ame- 
thyst, &c. ;  likewise,  quicksilver,  lead,  iron,  and  tin.  A  pearl 
fishery  is  carried  on  along  the  western  coast,  which  was  formerly 
important,  but  is  now  declining. 

The  inhabitants  are  estimated  at  about  1,000,000  in  number, 
and  comprise,  1st.  The  Cingalese,  who  are  similar  to  the  Hindoos. 
2d.  The  Beddahs,  rude  savages,  who  inhabit  the  interior  tracts , 
3d.  The  Dutch  and  Portuguese,  descendants  of  the  former  mas- 


INDIA.  477 

ters  of  the  island ;  and  4th.  The  English  residents  and  military 
Many  churches  and  schools  have  been  established  by  both  English 
and  American  missionaries,  at  which  numbers  of  the  natives  at- 
tend, and  are  gradually  laying  aside  their  gross  errors  and  super- 
stitions, and  acquiring  a  knowledge  of  the  benign  doctrines  of 
Christianity.  Ceylon  is  a  colony,  independent  of  the  East  India 
Company,  being  under  the  immediate  control  of  the  crown. 

Columbo,  on  the  west  coast  of  the  island,  is  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment, and  of  almost  all  the  foreign  trade :  population,  50,000. 
Trincomalee,  Point  de  Galle,  Jafnapatam,  and  Condatchy,  are  each 
places  of  some  note.  Kandy,  the  interior  capital,  is  only  a  large, 
straggling  village,  surrounded  by  wooded  hills,  that  echo  contin- 
ually with  the  cries  of  wild  animals. 

Coralline  Islands. — West  and  south-west  from  the  southern 
part  of  India,  the  Coralline  Islands  extend,  in  a  direction  nearly 
north  and  south,  a  distance  of  about  1000  miles  in  length  :  they 
include  the  Laccadive  and  Maldive  groups ;  the  former  about  200 
miles  west  from  the  Malabar  coast,  and  the  latter  300  to  350  south- 
west from  Cape  Comorin. 

The  Laccadives,  said  to  be  32  in  number,  are  all  small,  and 
covered  with  trees.  The  inhabitants  are  mostly  Mahomedans, 
called  Moplays :  they  trade  to  the  nearest  coast  of  India,  and  also 
to  Muscat,  in  large  boats.  These  islands  are  under  the  control  of 
the  Biby  of  Cananore,  a  female  sovereign,  subject  to  the  East  India 
Company. 

The  Maldives,  supposed  to  be  1000  in  number,  are,  for  the 
most  part,  uninhabited.  The  natives  appear  to  be  a  mixture  of 
Arabs  and  Hindoos:  they  supply  vessels  with  cocoa-nuts,  oil,  and 
honey,  dried  fish,  tortoise-shell,  and  cowries.  The  islands  are  di- 
vided into  17  attollons,  or  provinces,  each  governed  by  a  chief: 
the  whole  are  under  the  control  of  a  king,  who  rules  despotically. 
They  have  four  sea-ports,  in  which  their  iew  articles  of  commerce 
are  collected. 


CHIN  INDIA. 

Chin  India,  or  Further  India,  comprises  that  extensive  region, 
situated  between  Hindoostan  and  China,  and  sometimes  called 
Indo  China,  and  also  India  beyond  the  Ganges  :  it  comprises  seve- 
ral extensive  and  important  kingdoms. 

The  whole  region  is  bounded  on  the  west  by  Hindoostan,  the 
Bay  of  Bengal,  and  the  straits  of  Malacca,  north  by  Thibet  and 
east  by  the  China  Sea.     It  extends  from  north  to  south  1700,  and 

3D*  641 


478  ASIA. 

from  east  to  west  about  1000  miles,  and  contains  an  area  of 
upwards  of  900,000  square  miles,  with  a  population  of  about 
20,000,000. 

The  surface  of  this  great  territory  is  diversified  by  a  series  of 
mountain  ranges,  running  from  north  to  south,  between  each  of 
which  intervenes  a  broad  valley,  in  general  very  fertile,  and  wa- 
tered by  a  large  river,  descending  from  the  mountains  of  China 
and  Thibet.  The  rivers  are  mostly  of  great  size  and  importance. 
The  Irawaddy  may  be  ascended  many  hundred  miles  by  largo 
boats.  The  Salwen  is,  also,  a  considerable  stream,  though  but 
little  known.  The  Mecon  is  navigable  twenty  days'  sail  from  the 
ocean.  The  Meinam,  which  waters  Siam,  enters  the  gulf  of  that 
name  by  three  channels,  the  most  easterly  of  which  admits  ves- 
sels of  considerable  magnitude. 

Chin  India  yields  all  the  grand  staples  of  tropical  produce. 
The  principal  culture  consists  of  rice,  sugar,  pepper,  cotton,  to- 
bacco, and  tea ;  the  latter  is  raised  to  some  extent  in  the  upper 
provinces  of  Birmah,  where  it  is  used  a-s  a  pickle,  and  also  in  the 
same  manner  as  with  us ;  but  it  is  put  up  in  small  round  balls. 
Stick-lac,  wax,  ivory,  and  gamboge,  are  among  the  chief  articles 
of  export ;  also,  earth-oil,  areca-nut,  and  betel-leaf;  there  is  some 
cinnamon  obtained  in  Cambodia ;  and  in  Cochin  China  a  small 
quantity  of  a  very  superior  kind  is  produced,  which  is  reserved  for 
the  use  of  the  sovereign  and  royal  family  only  ;  and  persons  of 
inferior  rank,  found  with  any  of  the  article  in  their  possession,  are 
liable  to  be  punished  with  death. 

Domestic  animals  are  but  little  employed  in  cultivation ;  and 
though  among  the  Birmans  and  Siamese,  the  Brahminical  princi- 
ple, which  forbids  their  being  used  as  food,  prevails ;  yet,  in  no 
part  of  the  world,  probably,  is  the  destruction  of  life,  either  of 
man  or  beast,  less  regarded.  Animals  are  tamed  chiefly  for 
conveyance  or  pomp ;  and  for  these  purposes,  the  elephant,  which 
here  attains  his  greatest  bulk  and  perfection,  is  mostly  employed. 
White  elephants,  though  sometimes  met  with,  are  rare.  In  Bir- 
mah and  Siam  these  animals  are  treated  with  great  distinction, 
and  are  worshipped  by  the  people.  They  are  served  with  all  (he 
pomp  of  royalty,  have  numerous  attendants,  and  are  often  adorned 
with  valuable  chains  and  other  ornaments  of  gold  ;  their  tusks  are 
frequently  gilded. 

Manufactures  exist  only  on  a  limited  scale,  and  in  a  rude  form; 
the  raw  materials  which  the  country  affords,  being  worked  up 
mostly  by  the  family  itself  for  domestic  use.  A  vast  number  of 
images  of  Gaudama  are  fashioned  out  of  a  fine  species  of  marble 
found  in  the  country,  and  are  generally  gilded. 

The  commerce  is  principally  with  China,  and  consists  in  the 
exchange  of  their  raw  produce,  rice,  cotton,  timber,  &c.  for  some 


INDIA.  479 

species  of  the  fine  manufactures  of  that  great  empire.  Cotton 
and  other  products  of  Birmah,  are  carried  up  the  Irawaddy  to  a 
great  market  in  the  frontier  province  of  Yunnan.  Calcutta  and 
Madras  take,  of  teak  timber,  to  the  amount  of  about  500,000 
dollars,  in  return  for  which,  British  manufactures  are  received. 
The  trade  of  Siam  and  Cochin  China  is  chiefly  carried  on  by 
Chinese  junks  coming  to  the  port  of  Bankok,  in  the  former  coun- 
try, and  those  of  Turon,  Hue,  and  Saigon,  in  the  latter.  There 
is,  also,  some  trade  with  the  British  settlement  at  Singapore. 

The  inhabitants  of  Farther  India  are  short,  robust,  and  active 
in  person.  The  hair  is  coarse,  black,  and  abundant ;  but  the 
beard  is  scanty.  The  Birmans  appear  to  be  a  lively  and  intelli- 
gent people,  possessing,  in  this  respect,  a  decided  superiority  over 
the  Hindoos.  The  Siamese  are  said  to  be  sluggish  and  indolent, 
destitute  of  courage,  candour,  and  good  faith  ;  and  so  imbued  with 
national  pride,  that  foreign  residents  cannot  obtain  a  servant  to 
perform  for  them  the  most  menial  offices.  The  Cochin  Chinese 
are,  like  the  Birmans,  active  and  good-humoured. 

The  religion  of  these  countries,  like  all  others  in  the  east  of 
Asia,  is  the  system  of  Buddha.  This  is  a  species  of  atheism,  and 
the  highest  reward  promised  to  its  devotees  is  ultimate  annihila- 
tion :  it  teaches  that  there  are  always  some  beings  who,  by  reli- 
gious merit,  have  attained  a  state  of  divine  existence,  when  they  are 
termed  Buddhas.  These  holy  characters  descend,  from  time  to 
time,  upon  earth  to  preserve  the  true  doctrine  among  men. 

Four  Buddhas  have  already  appeared  in  a  human  form ;  the 
last,  under  the  name  of  Gaudama,  about  500  years  before  the 
commencement  of  the  Christian  era.  The  image  of  the  latter,  a 
monstrous  figure  of  the  imagination,  is  adored  in  all  the  temples, 
where  his  priests  officiate  to  the  populace.  Here,  as  in  other 
countries  where  the  same  system  prevails,  there  are  monks  re- 
siding in  the  sacred  places,  and  living  in  a  state  of  celibacy.  In 
Anam,  much  less  attention  is  paid  to  religion  than  in  Birmah  and 
Siam,  and  the  priests  are  few  in  number. 

The  government  of  all  the  kingdoms  of  Farther  India  is  a  pure 
despotism,  in  which  no  check  on  the  authority  of  the  sovereign  is 
recognized.  The  state  officers  compose  a  sort  of  council,  but  are  en- 
tirely subject  to  the  monarch,  and  removable  at  his  pleasure.  The 
nobles,  especially  in  Siam,  show  the  most  profound  submission, 
and  approach  the  throne  creeping  on  the  ground,  and  lying  pros- 
trate on  their  faces.  The  king  has  many  pompous  titles,  but  that 
of  shoe,  or  golden,  is  the  most  valued,  and  must  be  applied  to  him 
on  every  occasion. 

The  armies  of  these  nations  consist  almost  entirely  of  a  feudal 
militia,  in  which  all  the  males  of  a  certain  age  are  enrolled,  and 


480  ASIA. 

may  be  called  upon  to  serve  under  the  chiefs  of  their  respective 
districts.  Their  organization  and  discipline  are,  however,  very  de- 
ficient. The  only  exception  is  in  Cochin  China,  where  the  Euro- 
pean officers,  formerly  in  the  service  of  the  government,  effected 
considerable  improvements  in  the  discipline  of  the  army  of  the 
late  sovereign,  which  amounted,  in  the  year  1800,  to  140,000 
men. 

The  most  efficient  part  of  the  national  force  consists  of  the  war- 
boats,  destined  to  act  on  the  great  rivers  which  form  the  main 
channels  of  communication  in  all  these  kingdoms.  These,  are 
often  of  considerable  size,  and  sometimes  carry  cannon.  On  land, 
the  Birmans  and  Siamese  trust  chiefly  to  their  stockades,  which 
they  throw  up  with  surprising  skill  and  expedition.  In  general, 
however,  none  of  these  troops  can  stand  the  charge  of  a  disci- 
plined army,  but,  as  soon  as  their  defences  are  penetrated,  they 
take  to  flight  with  precipitation. 

The  customs  of  these  countries  allow  to  the  female  sex  a  much 
greater  measure  of  liberty  than  in  almost  any  other  country  of  the 
East.  They  are  neither  immured  nor  veiled,  nor  withdrawn  from 
the  company  and  conversation  of  the  other  sex.  This  freedom, 
however,  is  not  accompanied  with  any  disposition  to  allow  them 
that  place  in  the  scale  of  society  which  justly  belongs  to  them. 
They  are  treated  as  the  mere  slaves  of  the  stronger  sex ;  all  the 
laborious  duties  are  devolved  upon  them,  and  they  manage  most 
of  the  transactions  of  buying  and  selling. 

POPULATION  AND  EXTENT  OF  CHIN  INDIA. 


So,.  M.  Population. 

Anam 350,000  . . .  10,000,000 

Birmah 254,000  . . .     5,600,000 

Siam 184,000  ...    3,800,000 


Sq.  M.     Population. 
Brit.  Territories,   77,000  .  . .  400,000 

Malacca 55,000  .  ■  ■  200,000 

Total 920,000.  .20,000,000 


BIRMAH. 

Birmah  occupies  the  most  northern  and  western  part  of  the 
peninsula  of  Farther  India.  It  extends  from  north  to  south  about 
700,  and  from  east  to  west  from  200  to  500  miles.  Area, 
254,000  square  miles  :  population,  5,600,000.  The  empire  con- 
sists of  two  important  divisions.  Pegu,  once  an  independent,  but 
now  a  subject  kingdom,  comprises  all  the  sea-coast,  and  the  mouths 
of  the  rivers.  Ava,  or  Birmah,  occupying  the  upper  valley  of  the 
Irrawaddy,  is  the  seat  of  the  ruling  power. 

The  present  empire  was  founded  during  the  middle  of  the  last 
century,  by  Alompra,  a  brave  and  patriotic  individual,  who  res- 


INDIA.  481 

cued  his  country  from  the  dominion  of  the  Peguans,  established 
its  independence,  and  ascended  the  throne.  Succeeding  sovereigns 
conquered  Siam,  but  were  able  to  retain  only  a  small  portion  of  it. 
Arracan  and  other  countries  were  also  subdued,  and  the  Birman 
empire  became  extensive  and  powerful. 

Rendered  proud  and  arrogant  by  long-continued  victory,  the 
government,  without  adequate  cause,  excited  a  war  against  the 
East  India  Company,  in  the  year  1826,  which  ended,  two  years 
afterwards,  by  t  e  humiliation  of  the  Birmans,  the  cession  of 
nearly  all  the  me  dtime  provinces,  and  the  payment  of  about  five 
million  dollars  to- yards  defraying  the  expenses  of  the  war. 

In  this  country,  no  office,  title,  or  rank,  except  that  of  the  mon- 
arch, is  hereditary,  and  promotion  is  open  to  all  classes.  The 
laws  of  Birmah  provide  for  the  suppression  of  almost  every  spe- 
cies of  crime  :  they  allow  of  the  absurd  mode  of  trial  by  ordeal  ; 
and  some  of  them,  especially  those  which  punish  insolvency  by 
slavery,  and  the  cowardice  of  a  soldier  by  the  punishmeut  of  his 
family,  must  be  regarded  as  barbarous  and  cruel.  The  adminis- 
tration of  justice  is  so  inefficient,  that  the  country  is  overrun  by 
robbers,  who  carry  on  their  depredations  in  large  bands.  The 
people,  in  consequence,  all  reside  in  towns  and  villages :  no  one 
thinks  of  living  in  detached  dwellings,  on  farms,  or  plantations. 

Besides  the  Avans  and  Peguans,  there  are  several  other  races 
in  Birmah,  as  Yiens,  Shans,  Karens,  &c.  Among  the  latter,  the 
American  missionaries  in  Maulmien,  Chumerah,  and  the  vicinity, 
have  established  churches  and  schools,  which  are  attended  by  the 
natives,  many  of  whom  have  exchanged  their  dark  superstition  for 
the  pure  light  of  the  gospel. 

Ava,  on  the  Irawaddy,  500  miles  from  the  sea,  has  been  the 
capital  since  1824,  and  is  said  to  contain  a  population  reckoned 
at  from  100,000  to  300,000.  The  principal  temple  of  Gaudama, 
in  this  city,  is  600  feet  in  length,  and  the  interior  is  adorned  with 
upwards  of  200  pillars,  50  or  60  feet  high,  and  entirely  covered 
with  gold  leaf. 

This  city,  as  well  as  Sagaing,  a  place  of  50,000  inhabitants,  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  was  lately  shaken  to  pieces  by  an 
earthquake ;  by  which  every  building  in  the  empire,  not  made  of 
wood  or  bamboo,  was,  at  the  same  time,  prostrated,  and  the  inhab- 
itants buried  in  the  ruins :  many  lives  were  also  lost  by  the  occur- 
rence of  this  great  calamity. 

The  former  metropolis,  Umerapoora,  though  but  lately  a  splen- 
did city,  is  already  much  decayed.  Its  inhabitants,  which,  20 
years  ago,  were  reckoned  at  200,000,  at  present  number  only 
30,000.  This  city  is  famous  for  its  large  bell,  weighing  500,000 
pounds  ;  an  immense  brass  cannon,  and  a  stupendous  brazen  image 

41  645 


482  ASIA. 

of  Gaudama.     English  and  Armenian  merchants  are  now  settled 
here,«ind  also  in  Ava. 

Rangoon,  the  grand  emporium  of  the  empire,  is  situated  on  ono 
of  the  branches  of  the  Irawaddy  river,  about  40  miles  from  the 
sea.  The  population,  estimated  at  from  20,000  to  50,000,  is  com- 
posed, in  a  great  measure,  of  foreigners  from  all  the  countries  of 
the  East.  The  chief  ornament  of  Rangoon  is  the  great  temple  of 
Shoe  Dagon :  it  is  inhabited  by  1500  priests,  and  other  religious 
persons  employed  in  the  service  of  Gaudama.  The  other  sea- 
ports are  Basseen  and  Martaban ;  the  latter  on  the  Salwen,  and  , 
the  former  on  the  western  estuary  of  the  Irawaddy,  are  not  much 
inferior  in  trade  to  Rangoon.  On  ascending  that  river  towards  the 
capital,  numerous  towns  and  villages  occur.  Of  the  former,  some 
of  the  chief  are  Prome,  Meeaday,  Patanagoh,  Sembewghew,  and 
Pagham-Mew. 

Prome,  at  one  time  the  residence  of  the  Pegu  kings,  carries  on 
a  great  trade  in  timber,  and  is  said  to  be  more  populous  than  Ran- 
goon. The  most  remarkable  building  in  this  city  is  the  Shoe 
Madoo  Praw,  a  brick  pyramid,  361  feet  high  ;  it  is  without  a  door 
or  aperture  of  any  kind,  and  almost  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  circum- 
ference at  the  base.  The  whole  is  covered  with  a  tee,  or  umbrella, 
56  feet  in  circumference.  Pagham-Mew,  the  ancient  and  splendid 
capital  of  Birmah  at  a  time  when  a  higher  taste  in  architecture 
appears  to  have  prevailed  than  at  the  present  day,  abounds  with 
magnificent  remains  of  temples  and  royal  edifices. 

Yay-nan-goung  is  famous  for  its  trade  in  petroleum,  or  earth-oil, 
used  for  burning  in  lamps,  and  other  purposes.  The  oil  is  pro- 
cured from  wells  in  the  vicinity ;  400  of  which  occur  in  a  space 
of  12  square  miles. 


THE  EMPIRE  OF  ANAM. 

This  empire  was  founded  during  the  latter  part  of  the  eighteenth 
century,  and  comprises  several  territories  that  were  once  separate 
and  independent.  It  includes  Cochin  China,  Tonquin,  Cambodia, 
T'siampa,  and  part  of  Laos.  The  two  first  divisions  are  more 
properly  entitled  to  the  appellation  of  Anam.  The  sea-coasts  are 
washed  by  the  waters  of  the  China  Sea,  and  the  gulfs  of  Tonquin 
and  Siam.  It  extends,  from  north  to  south,  1100,  and  from  east 
to  west,  from  400  to  200  miles.  Area,  350,000  square  miles : 
population,  10,000,000. 

Cochin  China  constitutes  the  original  territory  of  the  empire  to 
which  Tonquin   and  Cambodia  were  added  by  the  late  Caung 


BIRMAH. 


Temple  of  the  Golden  Supreme,  in  Pegu. 
One  of  the  most  remarkable  structures  in  the  Birman  Empire  is  that  in  the  city  of  Pegu, 
called  the  Shoe-Madoo  Praw,  or  Temple  of  the  Golden  Supreme.  It  is  raised  on  two  successive 
terraces,  the  lower  of  which  is  ten  feet  above  the  ground,  and  the  upper  twenty  feet  above  the 
lower.  The  building  is  pyramidical,  and  diminishes  very  rapidly  as  it  ascends,  so  that  its  form 
has  been  compared  to  that  of  a  large  speaking-trumpet.  On  the  top  there  is  a  tee,  or  umbrella, 
the  placing  of  which  forms  a  high  religious  ceremony,  and  gives  to  the  temple  its  sacred 
character. 


Grand  Kioum,  or  Monastery. 

The  Grand  Kioum,  or  Monastery,  is  the  residence  of  the  Seradaw,  or  head  of  the  Birman 

Church.    It  is  a  very  large  edifice,  and  one  of  the  most  singular  in  its  appearance  in  the  world. 

There  are  a  great  many  images;  and,  as  in  nearly  all  the  public  buildings  in  Birmah,  gilding 

is  profusely  employed  in  its  embellishment. 

647 


ASIA 


Royal  Golden  Barge  of  the  Emperor  of  Birmah. 
The  Birmans  and  Siamese  are  very  skilful  in  the  construction  and  management  of  boats, 
which  are  used  to  a  great  extent  on  the  various  rivers  which  intersect  their  territories.  War- 
boats  form  the  chief  part  of  the  naval  armament  of  Birmah  and  Siam ;  they  are  often  SO  or 
100  feet  long,  but  are  not  more  than  eight  feet  wide.  When  in  service,  these  boats  are  manned 
by  fifty  or  sixty  rowers,  each  armed  with  a  sword  and  lance,  besides  which  there  are  twenty- 
five  or  thirty  soldiers,  who  fight  with  muskets ;  a  small  piece  of  cannon  is  usually  mounted  on 
the  prow  of  the  vessel.  The  barges  or  boats  of  the  sovereign,  royal  princes,  and  great  men, 
are  richly  ornamented  with  carving,  gilding,  and  painting,  and,  when  afloat,  they  are  decorated 
with  a  profusion  of  long  pennons  and  streamers. 


Cjly  of  Singapore,  on  Singapore  Islund,  at  the  southern  extremity  of  Malacca. 

648 


INDIA.  483 

Shung.  That  sovereign,  being  driven  by  a  rebellion  from  his 
throne,  was  enabled,  through  the  aid  of  several  French  officers,  to 
regain  it,  and  afterwards  to  organize  and  discipline  his  army  in 
the  European  manner.  This  force,  with  a  navy  of  three  hundred 
gun-boats  and  a  frigate,  constituted  a  power  which  no  native  state 
in  this  part  of  Asia  could  withstand;  and  enabled  the  emperor  to 
become  master  of  the  extensive  territories  which  formed  his  do- 
minions. 

The  present  monarch  of  Anam,  unlike  his  predecessor,  appears 
to  be  jealous  of  Europeans,  and  has  none,  it  is  believed,  at  present 
in  his  service.  The  precise  condition  of  this  section  of  Asia  is 
unknown  ;  and  it  is  not  certain  that  the  empire  comprises  the  whole 
of  the  territories  left  by  the  late  sovereign.  Two  attempts  have 
been  recently  made,  by  the  government  of  the  United  States,  to 
open  an  intercourse  with  the  legal  authorities  of  Anam,  which 
were  both  frustrated  by  the  jealous  and  restricted  policy  of  the  pub- 
lic officers. 

The  inhabitants  consider  themselves  much  superior  to  Euro- 
peans, and  believe  that  they  and  the  Chinese  are  the  only  civilized 
nations  in  the  world.  They  take  great  delight  in  witnessing  com- 
bats between  the  elephant  and  tiger,  and  are  fond  of  cock-fighting, 
and  dramatic  representations.  In  the  latter,  the  actors  are  often 
hired  by  the  day  ;  and,  if  employed  by  a  person  in  power,  are  fre- 
quently beaten  if  they  fail  to  give  satisfaction. 

The  Cochin  Chinese  indulge  to  excess  in  smoking  and  chewing 
tobacco  :  they  consider  hatched  eggs  a  dainty  of  the  highest  order, 
yet  have  a  loathing  for  milk.  The  Christian  religion  was  intro- 
duced into  this  country  more  than  two  hundred  years  ago ;  and 
there  are  at  present  upwards  of  300,000  Catholic  Christians  in  the 
empire.  Persons  of  rank  and  the  officers  of  government  are  of 
the  Chinese  sect  of  Confucius,  but  the  people  of  the  lower  class 
are  Buddhists. 

Cochin  China  comprises  a  long  narrow  plain,  included  be- 
tween the  shores  of  the  China  Sea  and  a  chain  of  mountains,  a 
short  distance  inland.  It  is  tolerably  fertile  in  the  usual  products 
of  these  regions.  Both  the  agriculture  and  trade  are  carried  on 
chiefly  by  the  women ;  and  their  labour  is  considered  equal  in 

value  to  that  of  the  stronger  sex.     The  sea-coast  abounds  with  Va- 
cs (  .  , 

rious  marine  productions,  and  furnishes  the  tripang,  or  biche  de 
mer,  together  with  edible  bird's-nests,  so  much  valued  in  China. 

Cambodia,  the  south-west  division  of  Anam,  stretches  from 
north  to  south,  full  500  miles,  and  has  a  sea-coast  of  about  the 
same  extent,  lying  along  the  Malayan  sea  and  the  Gulf  of  Siam, 
which  is  in  general  low  and  flat,  and  overgrown  with  wood.  The 
country  is  inhabited  by  a  mixture  of  Cochin  Chinese,  Malays,  Chi- 

3E  649 


484  ASIA. 

nese,  and  descendants  of  the  Portuguese.    The  trade,  except  at  the 
port  of  Saigon,  is  unimportant. 

Tonquin. — Of  the  three  kingdoms  now  subject  to  the  sovereign 
of  Anam,  Tonquin  is  the  largest,  most  fruitful,  and  most  valuable. 
Its  character  is  decidedly  Chinese,  it  having  been  only  in  the  last 
century  separated  from  that  empire  ;  and  still  retaining  all  its  forms 
and  institutions.  Both  the  English  and  Dutch  have  attempted  to 
open  an  intercourse  with  Tonquin,  where  fine  and  cheap  silks, 
lackered- ware,  and  some  gold  may  be  obtained ;  but  the  arbitrary 
exactions  of  the  mandarins,  and  the  little  demand  for  foreign 
cloths,  in  consequence  of  costumes  fixed  by  law  being  worn  by  all 
ranks,  rendered  it  a  losing  traffic,  and  it  has  been  almost  wholly 
abandoned. 

T'siamfa,  or  Chiampa,  is  a  small  fertile  district,  lying  to  the 
southward  of  Cochin  China.  The  climate  is  very  hot  and  un- 
healthful  for  strangers.  It  abounds  with  elephants,  and  also  with 
the  rhinoceros. 

Laos,  situated  on  the  upper  part  of  the  Mecon  river,  and  on 
both  sides  of  that  stream,  is  a  country  but  little  known :  part  of  it 
is  subject  to  Siam,  part  to  Cochin  China,  and  the  residue  indepen- 
dent. Some  time  ago,  the  king  of  Laos  was  taken  prisoner  by  the 
Siamese,  and  carried,  with  his  children,  in  a  cage  to  Bankok,  and 
several  thousands  of  the  inhabitants  were  forcibly  taken  to  the  same 
place.  Elephants,  both  wild  and  tame,  are  extremely  numerous 
in  Laos ;  and  the  capital  of  the  country  is  designated  by  a  term 
which  signifies  the  place  often  millions  of  elephants.  The  people 
of  Laos  are  called  Shans. 

Hue,  the  capital  of  Anam  and  of  Cochin  China,  is  about  ten 
miles  from  the  sea,. on  a  river  of  the  same  name,  the  banks  of 
which  are  fertile  and  well  cultivated.  It  consists  of  a  large  quad- 
rangular fort,  or  rather  fortified  city,  which  constitutes  one  of  the 
most  complete  and  remarkable  military  structures  in  Asia.  Each 
side  of  the  fortification  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length,  the 
rampart  about  thirty  feet  high,  cased  with  brick  and  mortar.  It 
was  commenced  in  1805,  and  is  built  in  the  regular  European 
style,  with  bastions,  a  glacis  200  feet  broad,  and  a  ditch.  An 
hundred  thousand  men  were  constantly  employed  on  the  works, 
during  the  period  of  their  construction.  It  is  supposed  that  50,000 
troops  would  be  required  to  garrison,  and  from  800  to  1200  can- 
non to  fortify,  the  place.  Here,  also,  the  king  keeps  his  fleet  of 
galleys.     The  population  is  estimated  at  100,000. 

Turon,  on  a  fine  bay,  is  situated  to  the  south  of  Hue ;  Sinhoa, 
north  of  the  same  city.     Tai-fo,  Bambom,  Quinhon,  Phuyen,  and 


INDIA.  485 

Nha-triang,  all  south  of  Hue,  are  sea-ports,  but  little  known,  and 
seldom  visited  by  Europeans. 

Saigon,  the  capital  of  Cambodia,  is  situated  near  the  mouth  of 
the  river  Donnai,  which  communicates  with  the  Mecon  by  means 
of  a  canal  of  some  magnitude.  The  city  is  composed  of  the  two 
contiguous  towns  of  Saigon  proper  and  Bengeh.  The  latter,  which 
is  fortified,  is  the  residence  of  the  viceroy ;  the  former  is  the  chief 
theatre  of  the  trade  and  commerce  of  the  empire.  The  markets 
are  plentifully  supplied  with  native  products,  and  those  of  the 
neighbouring  countries ;  but  scarcely  any  European  goods  are  to 
be  seen.  There  is  here  a  superb  naval  arsenal,  formed  under 
European  direction,  in  which,  from  the  very  fine  timber  of  the 
country,  150  galleys,  of  the  most  beautiful  construction,  have  been 
built.     Population  of  the  city,  100,000. 

Kesho,  situated  about  20  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river 
Songo,  is  the  chief  city  of  Tonquin,  and  is  said  by  some  to  contain 
40,000  inhabitants :  other  accounts  represent  it  as  three  or  four 
times  more  populous. 


SIAM. 

Siam,  or  Thai  (literally,  the  free  country),  is  situated  between 
the  empires  of  Birmah  and  Anam  :  it  extends  from  north  to  south 
about  1100  and  from  east  to  west  from  300  to  75  miles ;  and  has 
an  area  of  184,000  square  miles,  with  3,800,000  inhabitants. 
The  kingdom  includes  Siam  Proper,  part  of  Laos,  part  of  Cam- 
bodia, and  the  northern  part  of  the  peninsula  of  Malacca. 

The  Meinam  is  the  chief  river  of  Siam  ;  it  is  deep  and  naviga- 
ble for  some  distance  in  the  interior,  and  the  country  on  its  banks 
is  fertile  and  well  cultivated.  Rice  is  the  chief  product,  and  tro- 
pical fruits  of  nearly  all  kinds  are  abundant  and  excellent.  White 
elephants,  as  in  Birmah,  are  objects  of  veneration  and  worship. 
They  are  attended  and  fed  with  great  care,  and  are  often  adorned 
with  gold  rings  on  their  tusks,  and  other  rich  ornaments  of  various 
kinds. 

Siam  is  supposed  to  be  a  very  ancient  kingdom,  but  its  histori- 
cal annals  are  hardly  known  to  the  civilized  world.  Upwards  of 
seventy  years  ago  it  was  conquered  by  the  Birmans,  who  retained 
possession  of  the  country  for  some  time.  At  length  Piatac,  a 
chief  of  Chinese  origin,  raised  the  standard  of  independence,  and 
forced  the  invaders  to  retire :  the  Siamese  provinces,  however, 
bordering  on  the  Bay  of  Bengal,  remained  in  the  hands  of  the 
Birmans ;  but  they  now  form  a  part  of  the  British  territories.     A 

4J  *  651 


486  ASIA. 

commercial  treaty,  between  this  country  and  the  United  States,  was 
formed  in  1833. 

Bankok,  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Meinam,  about  20 
miles  from  the  sea,  is  the  commercial  emporium  of  the  kingdom. 
It  became  the  seat  of  government  upwards  of  50  years  ago ;  and 
the  ancient  capital,  Yuthia,  80  miles  farther  up  the  river,  is  now 
in  ruins.  Sia  Yuthia,  opposite  to  Bankok,  is  the  residence  of  the 
court ;  both  places,  however,  form  but  one  city.  The  houses  are 
built  both  on  the  land  and  on  rafts  of  bamboo,  floating  on  the  river ; 
the  latter  comprise  the  largest  number :  they  are  little  more  than 
oblong  boxes,  that  may  be  moved  about  from  place  to  place,  and 
are  inhabited  chiefly  by  Chinese. 

The  shores  of  the  Meinam  are  covered  with  gilded  temples,  and 
with  the  palaces  of  the  grandees :  they  are  raised  on  posts  above 
the  ground,  which  is  so  swampy  as  to  render  it  difficult  to  walk 
or  drive  through  the  streets.  The  travelling  is  performed  chiefly 
on  the  river,  in  richly  gilded  and  ornamented  barges. 

The  sacred  places  in  Bankok  are  called  Wats.  They  consist 
of  spacious  groves,  containing  pagodas,  temples,  images,  houses 
for  the  priests,  &c.  There  are  above  a  hundred  Wats  in  this  city, 
and  a  few  of  them  are  spacious  and  magnificent  structures. 

The  inhabitants  amount  to  400,000,  of  whom  about  three-fourths 
are  Chinese  and  their  descendants.  Several  American  mission- 
aries have  visited  this  place,  whose  efforts  in  teaching  and  spread- 
ing the  gospel  have,  though  limited,  been  generally  encouraging. 

Paknam,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Meinam,  and  Shantebon  in  Cam- 
bodia, are,  after  the  capital,  the  towns  of  most  importance  belong- 
ing to  Siam. 


BRITISH    TERRITORIES. 

The  British  territories  in  Farther  India  consist  of  two  divisions, 
British  Birmali  and  British  Malacca.  The  former  includes  the 
provinces  ceded  bytheBirman  government  to  the  East  India  Com- 
pany ;  and  the  latter  comprises  a  small  territory,  &c.  situated  at 
the  extremity  of  the  peninsula  of  Malacca :  area  of  the  whole, 
77,000  square  miles.  The  population,  lately  supposed  to  amount 
to  1,000,000,  is  now  found  not  to  exceed  400,000. 

British  Birmah  extends  along  the  eastern  shores  of  the  Bay 
of  Bengal.  Its  provinces  lie  in  two  distinct  sections,  each  about 
400  miles  in  extent,  and  separated  one  from  the  other  by  an  inter- 
val of  300  miles  of  coast.  The  northern  provinces  are  Assam  and 
Arracan,  the  southern  Martaban,  &c.  Area,  76,000  square  miles  : 
population,  near  320,000. 


INDIA.  487 

Assam,  situated  on  the  Burrampooter  river,  is  inhabited  by  a 
rude  people,  who  pay  but  little  attention  to  cultivation.  The  tea- 
shrub  grows  wild  ;  and  a  considerable  quantity  of  tea,  the  produce 
of  the  country,  has  been  exported  to  England,  and  found  to  be  of 
good  quality ;  gold,  ivory,  and  silk,  are  sent  in  small  quantities 
from  Assam  to  Bengal. 

Arracan,  once  an  independent  kingdom,  has  suffered  greatly 
from  the  ravages  of  war,  and  is  thinly  peopled.  The  city  of 
Arracan,  built  on  a  river  of  the  same  name,  formerly  contained 
30,000  inhabitants,  but  they  are  now  reduced  to  about  one-tenth  of 
that  amount.  Akyab,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Arracan  river,  is  a  new 
and  improving  town  lately  founded  by  the  British :  population, 
8000.  Ramree,  on  an  island,  100  miles  south  from  Arracan, 
contains  7000  inhabitants. 

Martaban,  Yeh,  Tavoy,  and  Tenasserim,  are  the  southern 
provinces  of  British  Birmah ;  they  extend  along  the  sea-coast 
southward  from  the  Salwen  river.  These  districts  were  conquered 
by  the  Birmans  from  the  Siamese ;  they  are  thinly  inhabited  ;  but 
they  possess  the  most  salubrious  climate  to  be  found  in  this  part 
of  Asia. 

Maulmein,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Salwen  river,  is  the  capital 
of  British  Birmah !  it  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade,  and  is  well 
garrisoned:  population,  18,000.  An  American  mission  is  sta- 
tioned here,  to  which  a  printing-office  is  attached,  where  books  are 
printed  in  various  eastern  languages. 

Amherst  was,  some  time  since,  founded  by  the  British  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Salwen :  population,  10,000.  Tavoy,  containing 
10,000,  and  Mergui,  6000  inhabitants,  are  the  other  principal 
towns. 

British  Malacca  includes  the  territory  and  city  of  Malacca, 
the  island  and  city  of  Singapore,  and  the  island  of  Pulo  Pinang. 
The  population  altogether  is  about  83,000.  The  area  does  not 
exceed  1000  square  miles. 

The  territory  and  city  of  Malacca,  situated  at  the  southern  ex- 
tremity of  the  peninsula  of  that  name,  were,  in  1825,  ceded  by 
the  Dutch  government  to  England,  in  exchange  for  her  possessions 
in  Sumatra.  The  city  was  long  a  great  commercial  emporium ; 
but  since  Singapore  has  risen  to  importance,  Malacca  is  much  less 
frequented.  It  has,  however,  a  fine  climate,  with  some  industry 
and  cultivation  carried  on  chiefly  by  the  Chinese  inhabitants.  An 
Anglo-Chinese  college  is  established  here,  and  also  an  important 
English  mission.  The  population  of  the  territory  is  35,000 ;  of 
the  city,  about  5000. 

3  e  *  6*> 


488  ASIA. 

Singapore,  situated  on  a  small  island  at  the  southern  extremity 
of  Malacca,  was  founded  by  the  British  in  1819 ;  and  being  de- 
clared a  free  port,  has  acquired  great  commercial  importance. 
The  inhabitants  have  doubled  in  amount  since  1828,  and  are  now 
30,000  in  number,  comprising  Europeans,  Americans,  Malays, 
Chinese,  Arabs,  Jews,  Hindoos,  &c.  There  is,  here,  an  important 
missionary  station  and  printing  establishment,  where  books,  in  va- 
rious eastern  languages,  are  published. 

Pulo  Pinang,  or  Prince  of  Wales's  Island,  situated  near 
the  west  coast  of  Malaeca,  was  established  as  a  settlement  in  1786, 
and  soon  became  a  commercial  depot  for  the  neighbouring  dis- 
tricts, but  is  now,  in  a  measure,  supplanted  by  Singapore.  George- 
Town  is  the  capital :  population  of  the  island,  18,000. 

MALACCA. 

The  peninsula  of  Malacca  comprises  the  most  southern  part  of 
Asia  :  it  is  750  miles  long,  and  from  50  to  150  wide,  and  is  united 
to  the  rest  of  the  continent  by  the  isthmus  of  Kraw.  On  the  west 
this  country  is  bounded  by  the  Bay  of  Bengal  and  the  strait  of 
Malacca,  which  last  separates  it  from  the  island  of  Sumatra ;  on 
the  east  side  are  the  Gulf  of  Siam  and  the  Malayan  Sea  ;  the  latter 
stretching  from  Malacca  to  Borneo. 

A  range  of  high  mountains  extends  through  the  whole  length 
of  this  country,  and  the  interior  is  covered  with  thick  forests  and 
marshes,  so  that  it  is  difficult  to  penetrate  any  distance  inland. 
The  soil,  though  not  very  fertile,  yet  furnishes  various  fruits  of 
excellent  quality,  and  in  great  abundance ;  grain,  however,  is  not 
raised  in  sufficient  quantity  to  supply  the  inhabitants. 

The  northern  part  of  the  peninsula  is  under  the  control  of  Siam, 
and  the  southern,  of  Great  Britain.  The  intermediate  portion  in- 
cludes a  number  of  small  independent  states,  governed  by  petty 
chiefs  who  are  but  little  known.  On  the  east  coast  are  Ligor,  Son- 
gora,  Patani,  Tringano,  Pahang,  and  Johore,  and  on  the  west  are 
Queda,  Pera,  and  Salengore :  the  population  of  the  whole  proba- 
bly does  not  exceed  200^000. 

The  inhabitants  of  Malacca  are  called  Malays,  and  are  all 
Mahomedans.  Five  hundred  years  ago  they  were  a  powerful  and 
flourishing  nation :  they  carried  on  an  extensive  commerce,  con- 
quered Sumatra  and  the  other  principal  islands  in  this  quarter,  and 
planted  numerous  colonies,  in  consequence  of  which  they  are  a 
widely-spread  people,  and  their  language,  with  its  various  dialects, 
is  spoken  over  the  innumerable  islands  extending  from  Sumatra  to 
the  eastern  limits  of  Polynesia.  The  superiority  and  rivalry  of 
the  Europeans,  however,  have  diminished  their  importance,  and 


CHINESE    EMPIRE.  489 

they  are  now  divided  into  a  number  of  distinct  tribes,  without  any- 
sovereign  or  general  head.  The  great  body  of  the  Malays  are 
slaves ;  and  the  Oramlai,  or  nobility,  who  are  the  masters,  are 
mostly  independent,  and  sell  their  services  to  him  who  will  pay 
them  best. 

These  people  are  fond  of  war,  navigation,  plunder,  change  of 
place,  and  all  desperate  enterprises  ;  they  are,  by  turns,  merchants, 
pirates,  and  robbers  ;  their  vessels  traverse  all  the  oriental  seas, 
and  piracy  is,  with  them,  as  regular  an  employment  as  commerce. 
Several  instances  have  occurred  in  which  both  American  and  Euro- 
pean ships  have  been  surprised  by  them,  and  the  crews  destroyed. 

The  Malays  are  active  only  when  engaged  in  war ;  at  home 
they  are  indolent,  leaving  all  the  labour  to  their  slaves,  and  despise 
agriculture,  and  other  laborious  employments. 

The  Nicobar  and  Andaman  Isles  lie  to  the  westward  of 
Malacca,  about  300  or  400  miles  distant ;  they  are  both  in  the 
possession  of  the  natives.  Those  of  the  former  group  are  of  the 
brown  Malay  race,  and  are  peaceable  and  well-disposed. 

The  Andaman  islanders  are  a  variety  of  the  oriental  negroes. 
They  go  quite  naked,  never  cultivate  the  ground,  but  live  on  fish, 
which  they  spear  with  great  dexterity.  The  English  attempted  to 
form  settlements  on  the  Andaman,  and  the  Danes  on  the  Nicobar 
Islands,  but  both  were  abandoned,  the  climate  being  found  fatal  to 
European  constitutions. 


CHINESE  EMPIRE. 

The  Chinese  empire  contains  the  greatest  number  of  inhabitants 
subject  to  any  one  sovereign  in  the  world,  and  is  second  only  to 
the  Russian  empire  in  extent.  It  occupies  a  large  portion  of  the 
central  and  eastern  parts  of  Asia,  and  is  inclosed  on  the  north, 
south,  and  west,  by  Siberia,  India,  and  Independent  Tartary. 

This  vast  empire  stretches  over  70  degrees  of  longitude  and  38 
of  latitude,  being  in  extent,  from  east  to  west,  3300,  and  from 
north  to  south,  2200  miles ;  comprising  an  area  of  5,200,000 
square  miles,  or  nearly  one-ninth  part  of  the  whole  land  surface 
of  the  globe.  It  includes  various  extensive  territories,  and  several 
distinct  nations,  speaking  different  languages.  The  Mantchoos 
are  the  ruling  people ;  but  the  Chinese,  or  native  race,  comprise 
the  great  portion  of  the  inhabitants.  The  emperor  and  the  royal 
family  belong  to  the  dominant  race. 

The  population  of  the  empire  is  variously  reckoned  at  from  150 
to  350  millions.  The  following  estimate  is  about  a  medium  be- 
tween the  two  extremes : 

655 


490 


ASIA. 


China 

Little  Bucharia 
Mantchooria . . . 

Mongolia 

Soongaria 

Thibet,  &c 

Corea 


Of  this  vast  expanse  of  territory,  China  Proper,  Mantchooria, 
and  Little  Bucharia,  only  are  under  the  direct  control  of  the  Chi- 
nese government.  The  other  regions  are  merely  tributary,  or 
protected  states.  Mongolia  and  Soongaria  belong  to  the  former : 
the  latter  includes  the  petty  chiefs  of  Thibet  and  Bootan,  the  king- 
dom of  Corea,  and  the  Loochoo  islands. 


Square  Miles. 

Population. 

1,640,000 

200,000,000 

282,000 

4,000,000 

1,230,000 

3,000,000 

1,200,000 

2,000,000 

200,000 

2,000,000 

600,000 

8,000,000 

48,000 

7,000,000 

5,200,000 

226,000,000 

CHINA. 

China  Proper  is  the  principal  division  of  the  Chinese  Empire. 
It  occupies  the  south-eastern  part  of  Asia,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
populous  countries  in  the  world.  It  is  remarkable  for  the  antiquity 
and  singular  character  of  its  manners,  customs  and  institutions, 
and  for  the  reserved  and  jealous  policy  of  its  government  towards 
other  nations. 

In  extent,  this  section  of  Asia  stretches  from  south-west  to  north- 
east 1900  miles,  and  from  south-east  to  north-west  1500:  area, 
1,640,000.  It  is  divided  into  eighteen  provinces,  the  majority  of 
which  are,  in  area  and  population,  equal  to  some  of  the  most  pow- 
erful monarchies  of  Europe. 

The  face  of  the  country  is  much  diversified,  though  the  greater 
part  of  it  is  level,  intersected  by  numerous  rivers,  canals,  and  oc- 
casional mountain  chains,  of  which  one  of  the  most  important 
appears  to  be  a  continuation  of  the  great  Himmaleh  range,  extend- 
ing eastward  to  the  shores  of  the  Pacific  ocean. 

The  chief  rivers  of  China,  the  Hoang  Ho  and  Yang-tse  Kiang, 
rank  amongst  the  most  important  on  the  eastern  continent ;  they 
both  have  their  sources  among  the  mountains  of  Thibet,  and  after 
a  course  of  near  3000  miles,  discharge  their  mighty  waters  into 
the  ocean,  separated  by  an  interval  at  their  mouths  of  only  160 
miles.  The  principal  lakes  of  China  are  the  Tonting,  about  300 
miles  in  circumference,  and  covered  with  boats,  inhabited  by  a 
numerous  population,  who  subsist  by  fishing;  and  the  Poyang, 


CHINA. 


White  Ox.  White- Wax  Insect. 

The  Chinese  oxen  are  of  two  kinds,  and  are  both  of  the  humped  variety.  The  largest  is 
about  equal  in  size  to  the  smallest  of  our  oxen,  with  very  short  horns,  bent  back,  and  the  colour 
of  the  hide  mostly  white.  The  other,  or  dwarf  zebu,  does  not  exceed  a  good-sized  hog  in  bulk  ; 
they  are  commonly  greyish-white,  and  with  very  little  horns,  sometimes  without  any. 

The  insect  which  furnishes  the  white  wax,  so  extensively  used  in  China  as  a  medicinal  drug, 
and  in  the  manufacture  of  candles,  is  rather  larger  than  a  common  fly.  It  produces  a  white 
powder,  which  it  imparts  to  the  stems  and  leaves  of  the  plants  on  which  it  is  found ;  this  being 
collected  and  melted  with  some  vegetable  oil,  coagulates  into  a  solid  substance  like  bees-wax. 

657 


ASIA. 


Group  of  Chinese. 

The  Chinese  are  generally  of  the  middle  size :  very  few  of  them  are  tail,  and  still  fewer 

dwarfish  or  deformed.    Among  the  mandarins  and  the  wealthy,  there  are  many  individuals  who 

appear  robust  and  corpulent ;  but  the  mass  of  the  people,  from  their  scanty  diet,  are  mostly 

spare  in  person. 


^>dtufJJP% 


Chinese  Barges. 
The  internal  trade  of  China  is  very  great,  and  is  conducted  on  the  rivers  and  canals  by 
means  of  numerous  barges,  which  convey  from  province  to  province  the  vast  amount  of  manu- 
factured and  agricultural  produce  requisite  to  supply  the  wants  of  so  large  an  empire.  The 
imperial  tax  being  nearly  all  paid  in  kind,  and  conveyed  to  Pekin  from  all  quarters,  consti- 
tutes of  itself  the  basis  of  an  extensive  navigation. 


Chinese  Mandarin,  Ladies  and  Servant. 
In  China,  the  women  of  the  lower  order  are  treated  harshly,  and  aic  almost  invariably  coarse 
nnd  vulgar.  A  few  of  the  higher  rank  casually  seen  by  Europeans,  made  a  mure  favourable 
impression,  and,  from  the  delicacy  of  their  complexion  and  the  regularity  of  their  features, 
seemed  entitled  to  admiration.  The  practice  of  the  rich  in  buying  the  most  handsome  females 
for  their  wivos,  &c,  forms  a  principal  cause  of  the  apparent  difference  between  the  two  classes. 

058 


CHINESE   EMPIRE.  491 

which  is  surrounded  by  picturesque  and  finely  wooded  hills.  The 
other  lakes  are  of  much  less  magnitude. 

The  chief  part  of  China  lies  in  the  temperate  zone,  and  has  a 
corresponding  climate ;  but  in  the  northern  and  western  districts, 
from  the  proximity  of  the  high  mountains  of  Central  Asia,  the 
winters  are  severe.  The  coasts  of  China  are  often  visited  by  tre- 
mendous tempests,  called  typhoons,  resembling  the  hurricanes  of 
the  West  Indies,  which  often  cause  great  destruction  of  life  and 
property. 

The  soil  is,  either  by  nature  or  art,  fruitful  of  every  thing  that 
can  minister  to  the  necessities,  conveniences,  or  luxuries  of  life. 
This  country  produces  nearly  all  the  fruits  of  tropical  and  tem- 
perate countries.  The  camphor,  tallow,  and  cinnamon  trees  are 
common  in  the  fields  and  gardens.  The  most  celebrated  produc- 
tion, however,  is  the  tea-plant,  which  grows  wild,  but  is  much  im- 
proved by  careful  culture.  It  is  a  shrub,  five  or  six  feet  in  height, 
producing  leaves  of  different  flavour,  according  to  the  soil.  This 
is  so  extensively  used  in  China,  that  although  European  and  Ame- 
rican traders  take  annually  from  Canton  upwards  of  sixty  millions 
of  pounds  weight,  it  is  said,  that  were  the  foreign  exportation  to 
cease  altogether,  it  would  not  sensibly  lower  the  price  in  that 
country. 

China  produces  nearly  all  the  metals  and  minerals  that  are 
known  in  the  world.  White  copper  and  tutenag  are  peculiar  me- 
tals. The  gold  mines  are  only  partially  and  slightly  worked  ;  and 
the  currency  of  that  metal  is  supplied  by  grains,  which  are  found 
in  the  sand  of  rivers  and  mountains.  The  silver  is  furnished 
from  the  mines  of  Honan.     Coal  is  abundant. 

No  nation  is  so  famed  for  industry  in  all  the  arts  that  minister 
to  human  subsistence.  The  lands,  in  particular,  are  cultivated 
with  a  minute  care,  without  example  among  any  other  people. 
The  peculiar  importance  attached  to  agriculture  is  testified  by  an 
annual  festival,  in  which  the  emperor  exhibits  himself  to  his  sub- 
jects, guiding  the  plough.  The  Chinese  carry  on  farming  on  a 
small  scale,  with  rude  instruments,  and  almost  no  cattle.  Their 
chief  exertions  are  employed  in  watering  their  fields ;  and  when 
that  can  be  extensively  performed,  two  crops  are  raised  every  year, 
without  intermission  or  rotation.  The  highest  mountains  are 
formed  into  terraces,  so  constructed  as  to  retain  the  requisite  quan- 
tity of  water,  and  allow  what  is  superfluous  to  pass ;  and  reser- 
voirs are  formed  on  the  summits. 

In  manufactures,  these  people  are  also  eminent.  The  fabric  of 
porcelain,  so  superior  in  beauty  to  every  other  species  of  earthen- 
ware, originated  entirely  with  them  ;  and,  though  the  taste  of  their 
imitators  in  Europe  has  produced  more  elegant  patterns,  they  are 


492  ASIA. 

still  unrivalled  as  to  its  whiteness,  hardness,  and  the  transparency 
of  its  colours.  Silk  is  also  a  fabric  which  the  western  world  has 
acquired  a  knowledge  of  from  the  Chinese.  A  number  of  little  or- 
namented trinkets  and  toys  are  also  made  with  the  simplest  instru- 
ments, and  by  the  hands  of  single  individuals ;  yet  with  a  beauty 
which  we  in  vain  attempt  to  rival.  Such  are  their  ivory  fans  and 
baskets ;  their  ornaments  of  tortoise-shell  and  mother-of-pearl ; 
their  silver  filigree  and  lackered  cabinets,  chests,  &c;  their  stained 
paper  and  Indian-ink  are  also  well  known. 

The  interior  commerce  of  China  is  chiefly  confined  to  the  ope- 
ration of  bartering  the  productions  of  its  different  provinces.  The 
most  ample  facilities  are  afforded  by  the  great  rivers  and  theit  nu- 
merous tributaries,  and  also  by  the  canals,  which  are  constructed 
on  a  greater  scale  than  in  any  other  country.  Salt  is  a  most  ex- 
tensive article  of  traffic ;  and  coal,  turf,  and  other  fuel  give  occu- 
pation to  numerous  barges.  The  distribution  throughout  China 
of  the  silks,  porcelains,  and  various  manufactures  of  the  central 
provinces,  affords  another  source  no  less  ample. 

The  foreign  commerce  of  this  country  amounts  to  between  30 
and  40  millions  of  dollars  annually ;  of  this  the  European  part  is 
the  most  considerable,  and  has  been  chiefly  in  the  hands  of  the 
English.  Foreigners  can  deal  only  with  a  body  of  licensed  Chi- 
nese traders,  called  the  Hong  merchants,  who  are  required  to  give 
security  to  the  government  lor  the  payment  of  the  import  and  ex- 
port duties  on  the  cargo  of  every  ship  that  arrives,  and  for  the  good 
conduct  of  the  crew.  There  are,  however,  others,  called  outside 
merchants,  many  of  whom,  under  sanction  of  the  Hong,  carry  on 
traffic  to  a  considerable  extent. 

The  British  trade  in  Canton  was  recently  under  the  supervision 
of  an  officer  of  their  own,  appointed  by  the  crown,  and  styled  the 
Superintendent  of  the  Merchants.  About  45  million  pounds  of 
tea  have  been  annually  sent  to  England,  besides  a  corresponding 
proportion  of  the  other  articles  of  trade.  Of  the  European  na- 
tions, the  Dutch  trade  is  the  largest  after  the  British ;  but  even 
with  the  assistance  of  protecting  duties  in  Holland,  the  Dutch 
cannot  withstand  the  enterprise  and  activity  of  the  Americans. 
Though  the  Portuguese  possess  the  island  of  Macao,  and  the 
Spaniards,  from  the  Philippines,  have  access  to  the  port  of  Amoy, 
they  make  little  use  of  these  advantages.  The  French,  Swedes, 
and  Danes,  all  carry  on  a  little  intercourse  with  Canton. 

The  trade  to  China  from  India,  called  the  country  trade,  was, 
until  lately,  very  important,  principally  in  opium,  cotton,  pepper, 
tin,  betel-nut,  &c. ;  it  is  now  somewhat  interrupted,  in  consequence 
of  hostilities  having  commenced  between  China  and  Great  Britain. 
This  event  took  place,  because  the  Chinese  prohibited  the  intro- 
duction of  opium  into  the  empire,  and  destroyed  a  quantity  of 


CHINESE   EMPIRE.  493 

that  article,  valued  at  10  million  dollars,  belonging  to  British  mer- 
chants. In  July  1840,  Canton  river  was  blockaded  ;  soon  after- 
wards, Tchusan,  a  considerable  island  on  the  east  coast  was 
taken;  and,  according  to  the  latest  intelligence  (Aug.  1841,) 
Canton  was  also  captured  by  a  British  force. 

The  American  Chinese  trade  commenced  in  1783  with  a  single 
vessel  from  the  port  of  New  York,  and  has  increased  from  30 
to  40  ships  annually ;  the  average  amount  of  whose  cargoes  is  up- 
wards of  live  million  dollars;  the  imports  are  near  15  million 
pounds  of  tea  of  various  kinds,  with  some  nankeens,  silks,  toys, 
&c. :  in  return  are  sent  seal-skins,  ginseng,  sea-slug,  woollen  and 
cotton  goods,  and  specie. 

The  foreign  commerce  carried  on  by  the  Chinese  themselves, 
though  much  less  in  amount  than  that  by  Europeans,  is  not  incon- 
siderable :  many  voyages  are  annually  performed  in  their  large, 
unwieldy  junks,  whose  model  can  never  be  improved,  as  the 
slightest  deviation  from  their  present  clumsy  structure  would  sub- 
ject the  owners  to  the  high  duties  imposed  on  foreign  merchants. 
Saigon,  Bankok,  Singapore,  and  Batavia  are  the  ports  to  which  the 
Chinese  principally  trade. 

The  over-land  foreign  trade  of  China,  carried  on  by  caravans, 
is  also  extensive.  The  principal  stations  for  this  trade  are  Mai- 
matchin,  on  the  Russian  frontier ;  Yarkand  and  Cashgar,  near  the 
frontiers  of  Bucharia ;  Ladak  and  Lassa,  in  Thibet ;  Yong- 
tchang,  in  Yunnan,  near  the  Birman  frontier ;  and  Koei-lin,  near 
that  of  Anam. 

The  inland  navigation,  by  means  of  rivers  and  canals,  which 
everywhere  abound,  is  unparalleled.  The  Imperial  Canal  is  the 
greatest  work  of  the  kind  in  the  world.  It  extends  from  Peking 
to  the  Kiang-ku,  about  600  miles.  It  is  said  to  have  employed 
30,000  men  upwards  of  40  years  in  its  construction.  The  great 
wall  which  bounds  China  on  the  north  is  the  most  extensive  fabric 
in  the  world.  It  is  1500  miles  long,  passing  over  a  vast  chain 
of  mountains,  30  feet  high  on  the  plain,  15  or  20  when  carried 
over  rocks  and  elevated  grounds ;  and  of  such  thickness,  that  six 
horsemen  can  easily  ride  abreast  upon  it.  It  is  said  to  have  been 
completed  214  years  before  the  Christian  era. 

The  whole  of  the  immense  population  of  China  composes  strictly 
one  people,  cast  in  one  mould,  both  of  form  and  mind  ;  and  exhibit, 
in  their  general  appearance,  striking  proofs  of  Mongol  origin. 
They  have  a  square,  flat  face,  small  nose,  pale,  yellow  complex- 
ion, and  long  black  hair.  The  latter  is  plaited  into  a  tail,  reach- 
ing from  the  crown  of  the  head  sometimes  as  low  as  the  calf  of 
the  leg,  the  rest  of  the  scalp  being  closely  shaven.  According  to 
the  ideas  of  the  Chinese,  the  chief  beauty  of  the  females  consists 

42  3F  661 


494  ASIA. 

in  the  small ness  of  their  feet,  which  are  swathed  from  the  ear- 
liest infancy,  in  order  to  prevent  their  growing  to  the  natural  size. 

The  national  character  of  the  Chinese  has  been  very  differently 
regarded  ;  and  perhaps  there  has  of  late  prevailed  a  disposition  to 
rate  it  somewhat  too  low.  Quietude,  industry,  order,  and  regu- 
larity, qualities  which  a  despotic  government  seeks  always  to  fos- 
ter, seem  to  be  peculiarly  conspicuous.  A  general  good-humour 
and  courtesy  reign  in  their  aspect  and  proceedings.  Flagrant 
crimes,  and  open  violations  of  the  laws  are  by  no  means  common. 
The  attachments  of  kindred  are  encouraged  and  cherished  with 
peculiar  force,  particularly  towards  parents,  and  ancestry  in  gene- 
ral. The  support  of  the  aged  and  infirm  is  inculcated  as  a  sacred 
duty,  which  appears  to  be  very  strictly  fulfilled.  It  is  said  to  be 
customary,  that  a  whole  family,  for  several  generations,  with  all 
its  members,  live  under  one  roof,  and  with  only  two  apartments, 
one  for  sleeping,  and  the  other  for  eating. 

Within  the  domestic  circle,  however,  and  that  of  ceremonious 
social  intercourse,  appears  to  terminate  all  that  is  estimable  in 
the  Chinese  disposition.  In  every  other  respect,  they  show  no 
interest  in  the  welfare  of  their  fellow-creatures,  nor  even  the  com- 
mon feelings  of  sympathy.  Repeated  instances  have  occurred  of 
Chinese  dropping  into  the  sea,  and  being  rescued  by  foreigners, 
while  their  own  countrymen  did  not  take  the  least  notice,  or  make 
a  single  effort  to  save  them.  Their  propensity  to  fraud  has  been 
amply  noticed  by  travellers,  but  appears  to  have  been  somewhat 
exaggerated. 

The  want  of  all  independent  place  and  power,  the  abject  sub- 
mission required,  and  the  application  of  the  rod  to  all  classes 
alike,  produces  a  general  degradation  of  character,  and  the  vices 
which  are  its  natural  consequences.  The  highest  officers  of  state 
are  said  to  show  an  entire  disregard  of  truth,  and  hesitate  not  to 
utter  the  most  glaring  falsehoods,  whenever  a  political  purpose  is 
to  be  served. 

Learning  is  highly  esteemed  in  China  ;  and  superior  attainments 
in  knowledge  are  a  sure  passport  to  office  and  distinction.  The 
literature  is,  however,  much  encumbered  by  the  difficulties  of  the 
language,  which  is  meagre  and  imperfect.  Poetry  is  a  general 
study,  and  there  are  many  tales,  books  of  ceremonies,  dramas,  &c. 
The  literary  works  most  esteemed  are  attributed  to  Confucius. 
There  is  a  gazette  published  at  Canton ;  and,  though  there  is  no 
censorship,  the  penalties  for  publishing  what  is  distasteful  to  the  au- 
thorities are  sufficiently  severe  to  restrain  all  liberty  of  the  press. 

The  existing  worship  of  China  is  a  confused  mixture  of  super- 
stitions ;  for,  generally  speaking,  all  religions  are  tolerated,  though 
the  reigning  Tartar  family  adhere  principally  to  the  religion  of 


CHINESE   EMPIRE.  495 

the  Grand  Lama.  The  religion  of  Fo  is  professed  by  the  great 
body  of  the  people,  and  its  temples  and  priests  are  very  numerous. 
This  system  is  very  similar  to  Buddhism  in  other  countries,  Fo 
being  merely  another  name  for  Buddha.  The  doctrines  of  Confu- 
cius are  adopted  by  the  learned  :  they  consider  the  universe  to  be 
an  animated  system,  actuated  by  one  spirit,  of  which  every  livingr 
thing  is  an  emanation,  and  to  which,  after  death,  it  returns.  This 
sect  pays  divine  honours  to  the  heavens  and  the  earth,  the  sun  and 
moon,  deified  sages,  heroes,  inventors  of  useful  arts,  martyrs  to 
virtue,  eminent  statesmen,  and  ancestors. 

The  Taou,  or  Rational  religion,  is  also  prevalent  in  China.  Its 
votaries  are  devoted  to  contemplation :  they  profess  to  despise 
riches,  fame,  and  worldly  distinction,  and  place  their  chief  good  in 
tranquillity  and  present  enjoyment.  There  were  many  Catholic 
Christians  once  in  China ;  but  they  have  been  often  persecuted, 
from  an  indiscreet  zeal  in  the  missionaries ;  so  that,  at  present, 
they  are  hardly  tolerated.  There  have  been,  for  some  years  back, 
both  American  and  British  Protestant  missionaries  stationed  in 
Canton  or  Macao :  their  success,  however,  in  spreading  the  gospel 
has  been  but  limited.  The  Scriptures,  with  a  number  of  religious 
works  and  tracts,  have  been  translated,  and  printed  in  the  language 
of  the  country,    and  distributed  to  some  extent. 

The  Chinese  are  more  completely  and  substantially  clothed 
than  the  other  nations  in  the  south  of  Asia.  The  men  wear  long 
gowns  and  petticoats,  which  would  give  them  a  feminine  appear- 
ance, did  they  not  add  boots  ;  while  the  women,  with  short  jackets 
and  trousers,  might  pass  for  men,  but  for  the  elegant  ornament  of 
braiding  their  hair  with  flowers.  Silks,  satins,  and  occasionally 
fine  cottons,  form  the  material  of  dress  for  the  higher  ranks  :  the 
lower  are  clad  in  coarse  cottons.  The  button  forms  the  attribute 
of  rank,  and,  by  its  various  shapes  and  sizes,  expresses  at  once, 
to  a  Chinese  eye,  the  dignity  of  the  wearer. 

The  people  of  China  differ  from  the  other  Orientals  in  their 
food,  and  in  the  mode  of  taking  it.  Instead  of  squatting  on  the 
floor,  and  eating  with  their  fingers,  they  sit  on  chairs,  and  eat  off 
tables.  Their  dishes  are  piled  in  successive  stages  over  each 
other :  they  consist,  in  a  great  measure,  of  confections  and  fruits, 
the  latter  of  which  are  iced.  One  favourite  luxury  of  the  rich  con- 
sists of  soups  made  with  the  gelatinous  substances,  sea-slug,  birds'- 
nests,  &c,  imported  from  Cochin  China,  Malaysia,  &c.  The 
mandarins  live  luxuriously ;  the  ordinary  Chinese  can  have  only 
rice,  with  a  little  seasoning.  The  lower  classes  arc  always  strait- 
ened for  food,  and  often  eat  various  animals,  and  articles  of  diet 
rejected  by  other  nations.  Tea  is  the  well-known  universal  beve- 
rage, presented  at  and  after  meals,  and  on  all  occasions.     Their 


406  ASIA. 

wine  is  bad,  but  they  have  an  ardent  spirit,  distilled  from  grain,  of 
which  they  use  pretty  largely  in  private. 

There  is  not,  in  any  part  of  the  world,  a  government  more  en- 
tirely despotic  than  the  Chinese.  No  rank  or  honour  exists  except 
that  which  emanates  from  the  sovereign.  No  distinctions  are 
owned  except  those  conferred  by  office.  This  supreme  power  of 
the  monarch  is  claimed  for  him  as  the  representative  of  Deity  on 
earth ;  and,  although  his  government  is  entirely  unlimited,  yet  it 
is  in  practice  among  the  most  mild  and  protecting. 

The  emperor  is  held  within  a  circle  of  laws,  institutions,  and 
ideas,  by  transgressing  which,  he  would  lose  the  very  basis  on 
which  his  authority  rests.  The  doctrine  that  he  is  the  son  and 
vicegerent  of  Heaven  implies  that  he  will  use  this  high  descent  and 
power  in  securing  prosperity  to  the  nation  over  which  he  holds  a 
higher  than  earthly  sway  ;  and  this  is  so  fully  recognised,  that, 
even  when  his  people  are  suffering  under  evils  of  nature,  famine, 
earthquake,  or  inundation,  he  takes  the  blame,  humbles  himself, 
fasts,  and  strips  himself  of  his  costly  attire,  as  a  penitent  under 
whose  sins  his  people  are  groaning. 

The  fundamental,  and  highly  laudable  maxim  in  this  country, 
has  long  been  to  make  skill  in  literature  the  sole  ground  of  official 
rank  and  public  employment.  The  examinations  for  this  purpose 
are  conducted  with  the  greatest  apparent  fairness,  and,  as  seems  to 
be  generally  believed,  with  much  real  impartiality.  Strict  precau- 
tions are  adopted  for  this  purpose ;  such  as,  that  every  piece  of 
composition  that  is  to  be  judged,  must  be  given  in  sealed  and 
anonymous. 

The  military  force  of  China  amounts  to  about  800,000  men. 
The  greater  part  are  a  mere  militia,  which,  in  their  appearance 
and  habits,  are  most  unmilitary.  Their  paper  helmets,  wadded 
gowns,  quilted  petticoats,  and  clumsy  satin  boots,  exhibit  to  the 
eye  of  the  European,  nothing  of  the  aspect  of  war.  It  appears 
from  ancient  records,  that  the  Chinese  and  Tartars  made  use  not 
only  of  gunpowder,  but  even  of  something  resembling  cannon  ;  but 
artillery  does  not  at  present  constitute  any  part  of  the  effective 
force  of  the  empire.  A  few  armed  vessels  are  employed  to  pre- 
vent smuggling  and  piracy ;  but  nothing  which  can  be  called  a 
navy. 

The  Chinese  are,  undoubtedly,  a  very  ancient  nation  ;  and  from 
the  brief  notices  of  the  Roman  historians,  we  learn  that  they  were 
1800  years  ago,  precisely  a  similar  people  to  what  they  are  at 
present.  Their  early  annals  are  evidently  fabulous,  reaching  back 
to  a  period  of  49,000  years :  their  esteemed  authors,  however, 
ascribe  to  the  empire  the  more  credible  antiquity  of  3000  years 
before  Christ.     About  the  fifth  century  before  the  Christian  era, 


CHINA. 


Chinese  Soldiers,  Boats,  &x. 


Hall  of  Audience,  attached  to  the  Imperial  Palace,  Pekin. 
In  the  Chinese  style  of  building,  there  is  little  either  of  elegance  or  magnificence.  The  external 
splendour  of  the  palaces  and  temples  consists  merely  in  coloured  varnish  and  gilding.  One  of 
the  Dutch  embassies  was  received  by  the  Emperor  in  an  apartment  only  ten  feet  square;  and 
most  of  those  occupied  by  the  royal  family  are  small,  and  but  little  ornamented.  There  are, 
however,  a  number  of  large  halls,  like  galleries,  for  festivals  and  public  occasions. 


View  of  part  of  the  Great  Wall  of  China. 
The  Great  Wall  of  China  was  constiucted  with  a  view  to  exclude  the  incursions  of  the 
Tartars,  but  since  the  conquest  of  the  empire  by  that  people,  its  use  is  no  longer  felt.  Though 
unrivalled  among  human  productions  for  the  amount  of  labour  bestowed  on  it,  this  huge  work 
implies  no  skill,  either  in  architecture,  or  military  defence.  It  is  merely  a  mound  of  earth,  faced 
on  both  sides  with  stone  or  brick,  and  strengthened  at  short  distances  with  square  towers,  that 
rise  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  above  the  top  of  the  wall.  It  is  in  some  parts  doubled,  and  even 
trebled,  to  secure  important  passes  more  ed'ectually. 

3F*  COJ 


ASIA. 


Porcelain  Tower,  at  Nankin. 
The  chief  architectural  monument  of  China  is  the  Porcelain  Tower  of  Nankin  ;  it  is  200  feet 
high,  and  is  divided  into  nine  stories.    This  edifice  was  nineteen  years  in  building,  and  was 
finished  about  the  year  1411. 


■S3 


Distant  View  of  Pekin. 
The  City  of  Pekin  is  the  largest  in  Asia,  and  perhaps  in  the  world.  It  is  surrounded  with 
walls  fifty  feet  high,  and  so  broad  that  sentinels  traverse  them  on  horseback.  The  most 
remarkable  building  in  Pekin  is  the  Imperial  Palace,  the  grandeur  of  which  does  not  consist  so 
much  in  the  nobleness  and  elegance  of  the  architecture,  as  in  the  multitude  of  its  buildings, 
courts,  and  gardens. 


~k 


Imperial  Gardens. 

In  gardening,  the  Chinose  seek  to  exhibit  the  wildest  and  rudest  aspects  in  nature  —  lakes, 

dells,  hanging  woods,  and  natural  forests.    Iu  the  Imperial  gardens  at  Yuen-mein  and  Zhehol, 

where  a  considerable  extent  of  country  is  ornamented  in  this  manner,  a  great  deal  of  fine 

scenery  is  included. 

Gbo 


CHINESE    EMPIRE.  497 

arose  Confucius,  whose  master-mind  established  those  principles 
of  law,  manners,  and  govei-nment  which  have  since  predominated 
in  this  country.  From  that  period  China  has  existed  as  a  distinct 
empire,  although  it  has  several  times  been  subdued  by  different 
conquerors.  The  last  event  of  this  kind  occurred  in  1644,  when 
it  was  overrun  by  the  Mantchoos,  who,  however,  assumed  the  laws 
and  manners  of  the  people  they  vanquished.  The  name  of  China 
is  unknown  to  the  natives,  who  call  themselves  men  of  the  Cen- 
tral Empire,  or  men  of  the  Central  Flower. 

Peking,  the  celebrated  capital  of  this  great  empire,  stands  al- 
most in  a  corner  of  it,  only  40  miles  from  the  great  wall.  It  con- 
sists of  two  very  distinct  parts,  the  Chinese  and  the  Tartar  cities, 
of  which  the  former  is  the  most  elegant  and  populous,  but  the  latter 
is  adorned  by  the  imperial  palace  and  gardens.  The  united  city 
is  about  twelve  miles  in  circumference,  surrounded  by  walls,  like 
every  other  in  China ;  but  those  of  Peking  are  peculiarly  lofty, 
and  completely  hide  the  city  from  those  who  are  without.  The 
population  is  estimated  at  1,500,000.  Peking  is  divided  into  re- 
gular streets,  the  principal  one  of  which  crosses  the  whole  city, 
and  is  about  120  feet  wide,  unpaved,  but  carefully  watered.  It 
consists  chiefly  of  shops,  which,  though,  like  most  other  edifices 
in  the  empire,  seldom  exceeding  one  story  in  height,  are  adorned 
with  flags,  varnish,  painting,  and  lanterns  of  a  peculiar  and  elegant 
construction.  The  streets  are  immensely  crowded,  as  the  Chinese 
spend  much  of  their  time  in  the  open  air. 

Nanking,  the  ancient  capital  of  China,  is  in  extent,  considera- 
bly superior  to  Peking.  Since  the  government  and  tribunals,  how- 
ever, were  transferred  to  the  latter,  it  has  greatly  declined,  and 
about  a  third  part  of  its  area  is  now  uninhabited.  Nanking  is  still 
the  most  manufacturing  city  of  the  empire. 

Learning  also  continues  to  flourish  in  an  unrivalled  degree ; 
booksellers'  shops  are  more  numerous,  and  a  greater  number  of 
physicians  are  educated  here  than  in  any  other  city  of  the  empire. 

This  city  contains  the  celebrated  porcelain  tower,  which  con- 
sists of  nine  stories,  ascended  by  884  steps.  The  material  is  a 
fine  white  tile,  painted  in  various  colours ;  and  the  whole  is  so 
artfully  joined  together  as  to  seem  one  entire  piece.  The  galleries 
are  filled  with  images,  and  set  round  with  bells,  which  jingle  when 
agitated  by  the  wind.  On  the  top  is  a  large  ball,  in  the  shape  of 
a  pine-apple  of  solid  gold.     The  inhabitants  amount  to  500,000. 

Souchow  is  extolled  by  the  Chinese  as  their  terrestrial  paradise. 
Branches  from  the  great  canal  traverse  it  throughout,  and  render 
it,  like  Venice,  a  city  on  the  waters.  The  small  lake  of  Taihoo, 
in  the  neighbourhood,  surrounded  by  picturesque  hills,  affords  a 
scene  of  delightful  recreation.     Population,  700,000. 

42  *  667 


498  ASIA. 

Canton,  the  best  known  city  of  China,  and  with  which  alone  Euro- 
peans carry  on  habitual  intercourse,  is  situated  at  the  confluence 
of  the  Pekiang  with  the  Taho  river,  and  at  the  head  of  a  broad 
estuary,  called  the  Bocca  Tigris,  which  extends  about  fifty  miles 
in  length  and  twenty  in  breadth,  to  its  junction  with  the  ocean. 
This  city  is  almost  five  miles  in  circumference :  besides  which,  its 
extensive  suburbs  compose,  as  it  were,  another  town.  The  waters 
of  the  Bocca  Tigris,  also,  are  covered  with  boats,  arranged  in 
streets,  the  tenants  of  which  have  no  home  on  land.  The  hongs, 
or  factories,  as  the  warehouses  and  residences  of  the  European 
and  American  merchants  are  called,  are  handsome  buildings,  situ- 
ated in  the  suburbs,  and  arranged  in  a  line  along  the  water.  The 
streets  of  Canton  are  narrow,  and  the  front  of  almost  every  house 
is  a  shop ;  but  the  suburbs  and  vicinity  contain  many  agreeable 
sites,  in  which  the  wealthy  inhabitants  have  erected  their  mansions. 
The  inhabitants  are  estimated  at  800,000. 

Near  the  mouth  of  the  Bocca  Tigris  is  the  island  of  Macao.  The 
town  built  on  it  is  the  only  European  settlement  in  China.  It  was 
once  a  place  of  high  importance,  when  the  Portuguese,  in  their 
days  of  prosperity,  carried  on  most  of  the  commerce  between 
Europe  and  China.  It  has  more  than  shared,  however,  in  that 
supine  sloth  and  decay  which  have  involved  all  their  Eastern  em- 
pire. The  town  contains,  at  present,  a  population  of  12,000,  in- 
cluding about  4000  Portuguese. 

Shang-hae  is  the  great  commercial  mart  of  Eastern  China  ;  it  is 
situated  not  far  from  the  Yang-tse-kiang,  in  one  of  the  most 
populous  parts  of  the  empire.  The  missionary,  Mr.  Gutzlatf,  who 
visited  it  a  kw  years  ago,  found  its  port  crowded  with  junks,  and 
every  evidence  of  a  great  commerce,  and  a  dense  population.  The 
coasting  trade  of  this  city  is  said  to  exceed  that  of  Canton. 

Teen-tsin,  on  the  Pei-ho  river,  about  75  miles  south-east  from 
Peking,  is  the  principal  trading  mart  of  Northern  China,  and  the 
sea-port  of  the  capital.  Besides  the  vast  trade  of  the  surrounding 
region,  500  large  junks  arrive  here  annually  from  Southern  China, 
Cochin  China,  and  Siam :  it  is  also  a  great  depot  for  salt.  The 
population  is  said  to  be  700,000. 

A  number  of  other  cities  in  China,  but  little  known  to  foreign- 
ers, are  large  and  populous,  and  are  the  seats  of  manufacturing 
and  commercial  industry.  Of  these,  Hangtchow  has  600,000  in- 
habitants;  Kingteching,  500,000;  Voutchang,  400,000;  Nant- 
chang,  300,000  ;  Singan,  300,000,  &c.  The  first  is  noted  for  its 
silks,  the  second  for  fine  porcelain,  and  the  third  for  its  great  trade 
in  tea. 

Chinese  Islands. — There  are  several  islands  and  groups  of 
islands  attached  to  China,  that  are  not  unimportant :  of  these,  the 


CHINESE    EMPIRE.  499 

most  interesting  are  the  islands  called  the  Loo-Choo ;  they  are  situ- 
ated 400  miles  east  from  China,  and  were  conquered  by  that  power 
about  550  years  ago.  They  comprise  a  group  of  thirty-six,  of 
which  the  largest  is  between  fifty  and  sixty  miles  in  length. 

The  great  Loo-Choo  island  is  represented  as  one  of  the  most 
delightful  spots  on  the  globe.  The  climate  is  mild  and  pleasant 
throughout  the  year.  The  inhabitants  are  kindly,  hospitable,  and 
intelligent ;  they  exhibit  none  of  the  recluse  and  contracted  habits 
of  the  Chinese,  but  appear  peculiarly  alive  to  social  enjoyment. 
These  people  are  a  diminutive  race,  averaging  only  five  feet  two 
inches  high ;  but  stout  and  well  built ;  their  faces  rather  agreeable 
than  handsome.  This  interesting  group  appears  to  extend  about 
500  miles  in  a  direction  nearly  from  south-west  to  north-west. 

Formosa  is  in  possession  of  the  Chinese.  Settlements  were 
formed  at  an  early  period  by  the  Portuguese,  and  afterwards  by 
the  Dutch  ;  but  both  have  been  expelled.  The  eastern  part  of  the 
island  is  occupied  by  races  almost  savage,  who  live  by  hunting, 
and  tattoo  their  skin  like  the  rudest  of  the  South  Sea  islanders. 

Hainan  is  a  large  island,  190  miles  in  length  and  70  in  breadth, 
separated  by  a  narrow  channel  from  the  southern  extremity  of 
China.  Though  in  view  of  vessels  going  to  Canton,  it  is  little 
known  or  visited.     Part  of  the  population  is  said  to  be  independent. 

Along  the  coast  extends  the  almost  numberless  group  of  the 
Tchusan  islands, of  which,  in  a  sail  of  sixty  miles,  300  have  been 
discovered.  They  are  small,  verdant,  and  cultivated,  and  rise 
from  the  sea  in  a  conical  shape.  The  great  Tchusan  island,  about 
forty  miles  in  length,  is  highly  cultivated.  Tinghai,  the  capital, 
intersected  by  canals,  resembles  Venice  on  a  small  scale,  and  pre- 
sents a  crowded  scene  of  busy  industry. 

COREA. 

The  Peninsula  of  Corea  is  separated  from  Japan  by  the  Straits 
of  Corea,  and  by  the  Yellow  Sea  from  China.  The  country,  400 
miles  long  by  150  broad,  is  traversed  from  north  to  south  by  a 
chain  of  mountains ;  and  though  some  parts  are  sterile  and  rug- 
ged, it  contains  a  considerable  extent  of  fertile  and  well-cultivated 
territory. 

Corea  is  ruled  by  a  sovereign  who  pays  homage  and  tribute  to 
China,  but  in  his  general  sway  is  entirely  independent.  The  peo- 
ple are  very  little  known.  The  arts  and  letters  of  China  have  been 
to  a  great  extent  imported  ;  and  Corea  has  the  same  written  lan- 
guage, though  its  spoken  one  is  entirely  different.  Men  of  letters 
undergo  similar  examinations,  and  hold  the  same  conspicuous 
places  as  in  that  country. 

The  capital  is  King-ki-tao,  an  inland  town,  situated  nearly  in 
the  centre  of  the  country. 


500  ASIA. 

THIBET. 

Thibet  forms  a  high  table  plain,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by 
ranges  of  lofty  mountains,  some  of  which  are  among  the  most 
elevated  on  the  globe :  it  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Mongolia, 
west  by  Little  Thibet,  south  by  Hindoostan  and  Birmah,  and  east 
by  China.  On  the  southern  boundary  are  the  Himmaleh  moun- 
tains, and  on  the  northern  the  Kuenlun.  The  exact  dimensions 
of  this  region  are  but  imperfectly  known ;  it  is  supposed  to  be 
about  1000  miles  in  extent  from  east  to  west,  and  600  or  700  from 
north  to  south. 

Besides  its  grand  mountain  features,  Thibet  is  distinguished  as 
containing  the  sources  of  many  of  the  greatest  rivers  of  Asia. 
The  Burrampooter,  the  Irrawaddy,  the  Mecon,  the  Hoang-Ho,  and 
Yang-tse-Kiang,  all  have  their  sources  within  its  borders.  The 
lakes  are  the  Terkeri,  70  miles  long,  lake  Tousea,  and  several 
others,  respecting  which  but  little  is  known.  One  of  these  lakes 
is  said  to  resemble  a  large  canal  about  five  miles  in  breadth,  and 
surrounding  an  island,  a  hundred  miles  in  circumference. 

The  climate  of  Thibet,  especially  in  winter,  is  cold  and  bleak  in 
the  extreme,  from  the  severe  effects  of  which  the  inhabitants  are 
obliged  to  seek  refuge  in  the  sheltered  valleys  and  hollows.  In 
the  temperature  of  the  seasons,  however,  a  remarkable  uniformity 
prevails,  as  well  as  in  their  periodical  duration  and  return. 

The  soil  of  Thibet  is  generally  thin  and  sterile  ;  yet  the  wants  of 
the  inhabitants  are  amply  supplied  by  the  animal  and  mineral 
wealth  of  the  country.  The  principal  domestic  quadrupeds  are 
the  broad-tailed  sheep,  shawl  goat,  and  yak :  the  latter  is  a  spe- 
cies of  buffalo,  with  a  hump  upon  the  shoulders.  It  furnishes 
food  and  clothing  to  the  inhabitants,  and  it  is  also  used  as  a  beast 
of  burden.  Its  tail  is  covered  with  long  glossy  hairs,  and  is  much 
used  in  the  East  to  drive  away  flies. 

Gold,  lead,  quicksilver,  rock-salt,  and  tincal,  or  crude  borax,  are 
among  the  mineral  productions  of  this  country  ;  the  last  is  found  in 
inexhaustible  quantities  in  a  lake  of  about  20  miles  in  circumfer- 
ence, in  the  northern  part  of  the  country. 

The  manufactures  of  Thibet  are  principally  shawls  and  woollen 
cloth.  The  exports,  which  go  chiefly  to  China  and  Bengal,  con- 
sist of  gold-dust,  diamonds,  pearls,  musk,  rock-salt,  woollen  cloth, 
and  lamb-skins :  in  return  for  which,  silk,  satin,  gold  and  silver 
brocade,  tea,  tobacco,  and  furs  of  various  kinds,  are  received  from 
China  ;  and  from  Bengal,  the  productions  of  that  country,  and  a 
variety  of  English  commodities  and  manufactures. 

The  inhabitants  of  Thibet  are  stout  and  hardy,  and  of  a  ruddy 
complexion  :  they  are  of  various  distinct  tribes,  which  are  but  little 


THIBET.  501 

known.  These  people  are  mild  and  gentle  in  their  manners,  and 
have  made  some  progress  towards  civilization :  though  sunk  in 
superstition,  they  are  free  from  many  of  the  sanguinary  customs 
of  the  Hindoos.  What  learning  they  possess  is  chiefly  connected 
with  their  religion,  and,  together  with  the  language,  is  of  Hindoo 
origin.  The  houses  are  meanly  constructed,  and  built  of  rough 
stone,  with  a  few  apertures  to  admit  light. 

The  Thibetians  are  said  to  reverse  the  general  practice  of  the 
East,  in  polygamy,  the  women  being  permitted  to  have  several 
husbands.  The  eldest  brother  of  a  family  has  the  prerogative  of 
choosing  a  wife,  and  she  becomes  the  wife  of  all  the  others.  The 
dead  are  either  buried,  burned,  thrown  into  a  stream,  or  exposed 
in  the  open  air  to  be  devoured  by  wild  beasts. 

Thibet  is  remarkable  as  the  chief  seat  of  that  branch  of  the 
Buddhist  religion,  which  in  China  is  called  Fo,  and  in  Tartary 
Shamanism.  The  Grand  Lama  is  the  sovereign  head  of  this 
system ;  he  is  considered  to  be  the  Creator  himself,  in  a  human 
form,  and  is  believed  to  be  immortal ;  and  when  he  dies,  his  spirit 
merely  quits  a  diseased  and  worn-out  tenement  for  one  more  youth- 
ful and  vigorous.  In  that  event,  the  priests,  by  pretended  celestial 
indications,  discover  an  infant  into  whom  his  soul  is  supposed  to 
have  transmigrated.  This  person  is  immediately  exalted  into  the 
character  of  Lama,  and  in  his  name  all  the  civil  and  ecclesiastical 
affairs  of  the  state  are  administered ;  and  such  is  the  sanctity  at- 
tached to  his  character,  that  it  is  pretended  a  heavenly  odour  is 
exhaled  from  his  whole  body ;  that  flowers  grow  beneath  his  foot- 
steps ;  and  that  in  the  most  parched  desert,  springs  flow  at  his 
command. 

In  Thibet  and  the  bordering  regions  of  Tartary,  every  great 
district  has  its  Lama ;  but  the  chief  of  these  spiritual  sovereigns 
is  the  Grand  Lama,  who  resides  at  Lassa ;  next  to  him  is  the 
Teshoo  Lama,  resident  at  Teshoo  Loomboo.  As  the  sovereignty 
centres  in  the  Lama,  so  the  nobility  is  formed  by  the  monks,  called 
jelums.  The  monastic  principle  exists  under  the  Buddhist  system 
in  its  utmost  rigour.  These  habits  being  adopted  by  the  most  cele- 
brated characters  both  in  church  and  state,  the  idea  of  dignity  is 
exclusively  centred  in  them,  and  those  of  degradation  and  vul- 
garity are  attached  to  marriage.  The  priests  reside  in  large  man- 
sions, uniting  the  character  of  convents  and  palaces.  Their  de- 
portment is  represented  as  humane  and  obliging ;  on  the  part  of 
superiors  unassuming,  and  respectful  on  that  of  inferiors. 

A  favourite  part  of  the  religious  services  in  Thibet  consists  of 
music,  less  remarkable  for  its  harmony  than  noise.  The  priests 
assume  the  whole  business  of  prayer.  They  sell  a  certain  num- 
ber of  prayers,  which  are  written  out  and  attached  to  the  cylinder 


502  ASIA. 

of  a  mill,  and  every  turn  is  supposed  to  constitute  a  valid  prayer. 
Some  are  moved  by  water. 

Notwithstanding  the  difference  between  the  religion  of  this  coun- 
try and  that  of  Hindoostan,  many  of  the  temples  of  Thibet  are 
crowded  with  Hindoo  idols ;  and  the  seats  of  Indian  pilgrimage, 
particularly  Benares,  Juggernaut,  &c.  are  devoutly  visited  by  vo- 
taries from  the  dominions  of  the  Grand  Lama.  On  their  part,  the 
Hindoos  pay  a  deep  religious  veneration  to  the  lofty  snowy  peaks 
and  the  lonely  mountain  lakes  of  this  elevated  neighbourhood. 

Lassa,  the  spiritual  capital  of  Central  Asia,  is  situated  in  the 
finest  part  of  Thibet ;  and,  independent  of  its  chief  ornament,  the 
temple  of  Pootala,  is  represented  as  handsome  and  opulent.  The 
inhabitants  are  estimated  at  80,000.  This  city  is  the  seat  of 
the  grand,  or  sovereign  Lama,  from  whom  all  the  priests  and 
sovereigns  of  that  denomination,  throughout  Thibet  and  Tartary, 
receive  their  investiture.  He  ranked,  also,  till  lately,  as  the  civil 
ruler  of  an  extent  of  country  about  300  miles  in  length,  and  com- 
posed of  the  best  territory  in  this  region ;  but  the  Chinese,  after 
expelling  the  Nepaulese  invaders,  annexed  his  domain  to  their 
empire.  They  rule  it,  however,  with  a  mild  sway,  leaving  all  the 
ecclesiastical  institutions  undisturbed,  and  in  full  possession  of  their 
ample  endowments ;  and  the  tribute,  conveyed  by  an  annual  em- 
bassy to  Peking,  is  extremely  moderate. 

Teshoo  Loomboo  is  the  seat  of  a  Lama,  second  in  rank  to  that 
of  Lassa.  About  400  mansions  combine  to  form  a  large  mon- 
astery, the  walls  of  which  are  built  of  stone,  the  roofs  of  coloured 
wood,  and  crowned  with  numerous  gilded  canopies  and  turrets. 
The  number  of  monks,  or  jelums,  the  sole  inhabitants  of  this 
monastic  capital,  amounts  to  about  4000.  Jigagungar,  the  largest 
city  in  Thibet,  is  situated  near  the  Irrawaddy :  it  is  said  to  contain 
100,000  inhabitants,  but  nothing  is  positively  known  of  its  loca- 
tion or  condition. 

Little  Thibet  lies  north  of  Hindoostan  and  west  of  Thibet.  It 
is  very  imperfectly  known,  and  is  a  high  and  rugged  region,  sur- 
rounded on  all  sides  by  vast  mountains,  from  which  flow  the  head 
streams  of  the  Indus,  the  Ganges,  the  Burrampooter,  and  the 
Amoo  rivers.  This  country  is  governed  by  various  petty  chiefs, 
some  of  whom  are  independent,  and  others  acknowledge  the  power 
of  China.    The  inhabitants  profess  the  religion  of  the  Grand  Lama. 

The  chief  town,  Ladak,  is  situated  on  the  Indus  river :  it  is 
the  seat  of  a  considerable  trade,  being  the  place  of  resort  for  the 
caravans  from  Thibet,  Hindoostan,  and  Cabul,  to  Yarkand  and 
Little  Bucharia.  Near  the  source  of  the  Indus  river  is  Gortope, 
a  great  market  for  shawl-wool,  which  is  collected  here  from  the 
adjoining  districts,  and  sent  from  hence  to  Cashmere. 


CHINA. 


Castls  of  the  Deb  Rajah,  at  Tassisudon. 
The  Castle  of  the  Deb  Rajah,  or  Lama,  of  Bootan,  is  a  stone  building  of  considerable  extent, 
at  Tassisudon,  the  capital  of  Bootan.    It  is  built  on  the  bank  of  the  river  Tchintchien,  in  a 
narrow  valley,  surrounded  by  high  mountains. 


Mausoleum  of  the  Teshoo  Lama,  at  Teshoo  Loomboo,  Thibet. 
The  Mausoleum  of  the  Teshoo  Lama  is  a  stone  edifice  about  seventy  feet  high,  the  inside  of 
which  is  overlaid  with  plates  of  silver.  It  contains  the  body  of  the  late  Lama,  laid  in  a  coffin 
of  solid  gold,  a  present  from  the  Emperor  of  China,  and  two  statues  of  him,  the  size  of  life, 
one  of  gold,  and  the  other  of  silver  gilt.  The  building  is  filled  with  sacred  books  and  costly 
presents,  the  gifts  of  the  devoiees  who  visit  the  tomb. 

3G  673 


ASIA. 


I"dgSJ©S£! 


Japanese  Costume. 


Prison  in  which  the  Russian  navigator,  Krusenstern,  and  his  officers,  were  confined  for  several 
months,  in  the  year  1804. 


Olea  Fragran. 


Salisburia  Adiuntoides 


JAPAN.  503 


JAPAN. 

Japan  is  a  flourishing  and  populous  empire,  situated  on  the 
eastern  confines  of  Asia.  It  bears  a  strong  resemblance  to  China, 
in  the  nature  of  its  institutions,  and  in  the  manners,  customs,  and 
character  of  its  inhabitants.  Being  marked  by  striking  and  pecu- 
liar features,  it  has  attracted  a  large  share  of  the  curiosity  of 
civilized  nations. 

This  empire  is  separated  from  the  continent  of  Asia  by  the  Sea 
of  Japan,  thestraitsof  Corea,  and  the  channel  of  Tartary.  It  com- 
prises the  islands  of  Niphon,  Sikoke,  Kiusiu,  and  Jesso,  the  south- 
ern division  of  Seghalien,  with  about  one-half  of  the  Kurile  islands. 
The  area  of  the  whole  is  estimated  at  260,000  square  miles,  and 
the  population  is  supposed  to  be  about  24,000,000. 

Lofty  and  rugged  mountains,  of  which  several  are  volcanoes, 
traverse  all  the  larger  islands,  and  render  the  scenery  bold,  varied, 
and  striking.  Fusi  is  the  highest  mountain  in  Japan  :  its  elevation 
is  unknown,  but  its  summit  is  covered  with  perpetual  snow. 

The  Japanese  are  among  the  most  industrious  nations  of  Asia. 
Their  fertile  soil,  and  even  those  parts  of  it  to  which  nature  has 
been  the  least  bountiful,  are  improved  with  the  most  exemplary 
diligence.  Rice  is  the  main  staff  of  life.  Next  in  utility  ranks 
the  daid-su,  a  species  of  large  bean,  which,  being  made  into  a  pulp, 
serves  like  butter  as  a  condiment  to  season  many  of  their  dishes. 
Wheat  and  barley  are  also  standard  grains,  though  not  to  an  equal 
extent. 

The  tea-plant  grows  without  culture  in  the  hedges  ;  ginger,  pep- 
per, sugar,  cotton,  and  indigo  are  cultivated  with  success.  One 
of  the  most  valuable  trees  is  the  Arusi,  which  yields  the  varnish 
employed  in  the  rich  lackered  ware  peculiar  to  the  country. 
There  are  but  few  cattle  in  Japan ;  a  variety  of  the  buffalo,  and 
some  small  oxen,  only  being  employed  in  agriculture.  The  horses 
are  small,  but  not  numerous :  dogs  abound,  and  a  few  hogs  have 
been  brought  from  China. 

This  country  is  rich  in  mineral  productions,  which  consist  of 
gold  and  silver,  copper  in  great  abundance,  said  to  be  the  best  in  the 
world,  some  iron  and  tin,  also  sulphur  and  coal.  Pearls  and  am- 
ber are  found  on  the  sea-shores  in  considerable  quantities.  The 
manufactures  are  similar,  in  fabric,  and  appearance,  to  those  of  the 
Chinese.  Silk,  cotton,  porcelain,  and  lackered  ware,  in  which  last 
the  people  excel,  are  the  chief.  They  are  also  well  acquainted 
with  the  art  of  working  in  glass  and  metals. 

The  Japanese  do  not,  themselves,  carry  on  any  foreign  com- 
merce, but  permit  the  Chinese  and  Coreans  to  trade  to  Nangasaki ; 

675 


504  ASIA. 

also,  the  Dutch,  who  are  restricted  to  a  small  island,  where,  sub- 
jected to  every  humiliation,  they  are  allowed  to  dispose  of  two 
annual  cargoes.  As  they  make,  however,  on  these,  a  profit  of 
100,000  dollars,  they  continue  to  endure  all  the  mortifications  and 
dangers  which  attend  this  traffic. 

The  internal  commerce  of  the  empire,  and  the  coasting  trade, 
appear  to  be  very  extensive.  All  the  shores  and  bays  are 
crowded  with  barks,  conveying  from  place  to  place  the  various 
products  of  the  provinces.  The  roads  are  excellent,  and  thronged 
in  a  surprising  degree ;  they  are  kept  clean  by  the  mere  anxiety 
of  the  people  to  collect  the  mud  as  manure.  The  broad  and  rapid 
torrents  in  the  mountainous  districts  are  crossed  by  handsome 
bridges  of  cedar,  well  fenced,  and  always  kept  in  the  most  perfect 
repair. 

This  country  was  entirely  unknown  to  the  ancients,  and  is  not 
mentioned  by  any  of  their  historians.  The  empire,  however,  has 
records,  which  affect  to  detail  its  revolutions  for  a  period  long  an- 
terior to  that  which  we  are  justified  in  assigning  to  the  origin  of 
human  society.  The  Portuguese  visited  Japan  in  the  early  part  of 
the  sixteenth  century  :  they  were  well  received,  and  for  a  time 
freely  admitted  into  the  country.  Under  their  auspices  the  Catho- 
lic missionaries  propagated  Christianity  to  a  great  extent ;  many 
of  the  princes  and  nobles  were  converted,  and  even  an  embassy 
was  sent  to  the  court  of  Rome.  Owing  to  the  imprudence,  how- 
ever, of  the  Portuguese,  they,  and  all  other  Christian  nations,  were 
banished,  and  many  thousands  of  the  native  converts  suffered  a 
miserable  death  from  persecution. 

The  Japanese  of  the  present  day  seem  to  be  more  averse  than 
even  the  Chinese,  to  hold  any  intercourse  with  foreigners ;  and 
they  appear  particularly  studious  to  exclude  Christians ;  the  Dutch 
only  being  allowed  access  to  the  empire.  An  attempt  was  lately 
made  by  some  American  citizens  to  restore  to  their  native  coun- 
try three  Japanese  sailors,  who  had  been  shipwrecked  on  the  coast 
of  California ;  but  they  were  not  permitted  to  land,  and  the  vessel, 
though  unarmed,  was  fired  on. 

The  government  of  Japan  is  an  absolute  and  hereditary  mon- 
archy, which  is  believed  to  be  administered,  generally,  in  accord- 
ance with  the  public  welfare.  The  dairi,  or  emperor,  who  is  con- 
sidered a  descendant  of  the  gods,  is  at  present  only  the  spiritual 
ruler  of  the  empire,  the  whole  civil  power  having  been  usurped  in 
1585  by  the  kubo,  or  commander  of  the  forces,  who  leaves  to  the 
dairi  merely  the  name  and  honours  of  emperor.  The  latter  re- 
sides in  his  palace  at  Miaco,  which  he  never  quits  except  on  a  visit 
to  some  of  the  principal  temples. 

The  provinces  are  governed  by  hereditary  princes,  who  form  a 


JAPAN.  505 

sort  of  feudal  aristocracy,  and  generally  occupy  strongly  fortified 
castles :  they  maintain  lofty  ideas  of  independence,  and,  in  conse- 
quence, are  watched  with  a  jealous  eye  by  the  government,  which 
requires  them  to  leave  their  families  at  the  capital  as  hostages,  and 
also  to  reside  there  themselves  for  a  part  of  the  year.  When  any 
of  these  nobles  are  convicted  of  treasonable  practices,  capital 
punishment  is  the  inevitable  consequence. 

The  Japanese  are  a  robust,  well-made,  active  people.  They  have 
straight  black  hair,  and  the  small  oblique  eye  which  characterises 
the  Chinese.  Their  complexion,  a  yellowish  brown,  appears  to 
be  produced  by  climate  only,  since  ladies,  who  are  constantly  pro- 
tected from  the  heat  of  the  sun,  are  as  fair  as  in  Europe. 

The  laws  of  this  empire  are  extremely  severe  ;  the  punishments 
are  cruel  and  executed  with  the  utmost  rigour.  The  security  of 
person  and  property  is,  in  consequence,  rendered  very  complete. 
Great  crimes  and  capital  punishments  are,  perhaps,  more  rare 
here  than  in  almost  any  other  nation.  Roasting  alive,  cutting  to 
pieces,  and  immersion  in  boiling  oil,  are  common  modes  of  punish- 
ing the  guilty.  The  parent  is  made  to  suffer  for  the  crimes  of  the 
child,  and  the  child  for  those  of  the  parent. 

The  Japanese  are  distinguished  by  a  more  manly  frankness  and 
independence  of  thought  and  manner  than  is  common  amongst 
Asiatics.  They  are  not  destitute  of  courage,  and  are  good-hu- 
moured, patient,  and  industrious,  but  suspicious  and  vindictive. 

Pride  seems  to  be  the  greatest  defect  in  their  character ;  it  runs 
through  all  classes,  rises  to  the  highest  pitch  among  the  great,  and 
leads  them  to  display  an  extravagant  pomp  in  their  retinue  and 
style  of  living.  Self-murder  here,  like  duelling  in  Europe,  appears 
to  be  the  point  of  honour  among  the  upper  ranks  ;  and  the  nobles, 
even  when  condemned  to  death  by  the  sovereign,  reserve  the  pri- 
vilege of  executing  the  sentence  with  their  own  hands. 

There  are  three  religious  sects  in  Japan.  That  of  Budso, 
of  Confucius,  and  of  spirits,  or  genii.  The  last,  called  the  reli- 
gion of  Sinto,  is  a  native  system,  at  the  head  of  which  is  the 
dairi ;  the  Budso  is  the  same  as  that  of  Buddha  which  prevails  so 
extensively  over  all  Eastern  Asia  :  this  is  the  most  popular  form 
of  worship,  and  has  great  influence  with  the  common  people.  The 
religion  of  Confucius,  brought  from  China,  has  many  followers. 

The  Japanese  temples  are  remarkable  for  the  great  number,  the 
singular  shapes,  and  the  stupendous  magnitude  of  their  idols, 
which  are  said  to  amount  to  more  than  30,000  ;  and  no  where  is 
idolatry  more  gross  and  monstrous  than  among  these  people. 

Women  hold  a  higher  rank  in  this  country  than  in  China  ;  they 
enjoy  the  same  degree  of  liberty  as  in  Europe,  and  are  educated 
with  the  same  care  as  the  other  sex.     Pilgrimage  to  the  shrine  of 

43  3  G  *  677 


506  ASIA. 

Isje,  the  most  holy  spot  in  the  empire,  is  held  to  be  an  indispensa- 
ble duty  once  a  year;  and,  in  consequence,  the  roads  leading  to 
that  place  are  continually  crowded  with  devout  worshippers. 

The  Japanese  probably  travel  more  than  any  other  people.  This 
is  owing  to  their  numerous  pilgrimages,  the  extent  of  their  inland 
trade,  and  to  the  immense  retinues,  sometimes20,000  in  number, 
which  attend  the  princes  in  their  journeys  to  and  from  the  court 
of  the  Kubo.  That  such  a  multitude  may  pass  without  inconve- 
nience, all  the  inns  are  engaged  for  a  month  before ;  and  in  all 
the  towns,  &c.  on  the  route,  boards  are  set  up,  to  announce  that, 
on  such  a  day,  a  great  lord  is  to  pass  through. 

Jedo,  the  capital  of  Japan,  and  the  residence  of  the  Kubo,  lies 
at  the  head  of  a  deep  bay,  on  the  eastern  coast  of  Niphon.  It  is 
seven  miles  long  and  five  broad,  and  contains  many  splendid 
palaces  of  the  great  lords.  The  buildings,  on  account  of  the  fre- 
quency of  earthquakes,  are  built  of  one  story  only.  The  palace, 
however,  though  equally  low,  is  five  leagues  in  circumference,  in- 
cluding a  wide  exterior  area,  occupied  by  the  spacious  mansions 
of  the  princes  and  chief  officers  of  the  court.  The  city  is  subject  to 
destructive  fires,  one  of  which,  in  1703,  consumed  100,000  houses. 
It  is  the  seat  of  varied  branches  of  industry,  and  carries  on,  also, 
a  great  internal  trade. 

Miaco,  the  spiritual  capital  of  Japan,  is  the  chief  seat  of  polished 
manners,  refined  arts,  and  intellectual  culture.  The  finest  silk- 
stuffs,  flowered  with  gold  and  silver,  the  richest  varnishes,  the  best 
painted  papers,  and  the  most  skilful  works  in  the  precious  metals 
and  copper,  are  here  manufactured.  It  is,  likewise,  the  centre  of 
literature  and  science;  and  most  of  the  books  which  are  published 
and  read  in  Japan,  issue  from  its  presses.  The  inhabitants  amount 
to  500,000,  of  whom  one-tenth  belong  to  the  religious  orders  and 
the  court  of  the  dairi. 

Osaka,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  on  which  Miaco  is  situated,  is 
a  flourishing  sea-port,  intersected,  like  Venice,  by  numerous  ca- 
nals, which  are  connected  by  bridges  of  cedar:  population,  150,000. 
Matsmay,  the  chief  town  of  Jesso,  has  about  50,000  inhabitants. 

Nangasaki,  in  Kiusiu,  the  only  port  in  the  empire  into  which 
foreigners  are  permitted  to  enter,  is  a  large,  industrious,  trading 
town.  On  a  small  adjoining  island,  the  Dutch  are  allowed  to 
carry  on  their  scanty  commerce.  They  have  here  a  space  of  600 
feet  long  by  120  broad,  on  which  they  have  erected  several  large 
warehouses,  and  rendered  them  fire-proof. 

Extraordinary  precautions  are  taken  to  prevent  any  contraband 
transaction,  commercial  or  political,  and  yet  it  is  confidently 
asserted  that  these  are  insufficient  to  guard  against  the  powerful 
impulse  of  self-interest,  and  that  an  illegal  trade  is,  notwithstand- 
ing, carried  on  to  a  considerable  extent. 


AFRICA.  507 


AFRICA. 


Africa  is,  next  to  America,  the  greatest  division  of  the  globe. 
It  comprises  about  one-third  of  the  world  known  to  the  ancients ; 
and,  though  settled  at  a  very  early  period,  is  still  the  least  known 
quarter  of  the  earth. 

It  is  almost  entirely  in  a  state  of  barbarism ;  yet  in  ancient 
times,  its  northern  states  rivalled  Europe  in  civilization.  Egypt 
and  Carthage,  when  in  their  glory,  ranked  among  the  most  improved 
and  opulent  countries  then  existing ;  and,  in  after  ages,  a  high 
degree  of  learning  and  science  distinguished  the  splendid  Saracen 
courts  established  in  the  west  of  Barbary.  The  continued  sway, 
however,  of  the  Mahomedan  religion,  and  the  separation  caused 
by  it  from  all  the  refined  modern  nations,  have  caused  these  coun- 
tries to  relapse  into  comparative  barbarism. 

Africa  forms  a  vast  peninsula  three  times  larger  than  Europe, 
and  about  one-third  less  than  Asia.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by 
the  Mediterranean  Sea,  on  the  east  by  the  Red  Sea  and  the  Indian 
Ocean,  on  the  west  by  the  Atlantic,  and  on  the  south  by  the  South- 
ern Ocean.  Occupying  72  degrees  of  latitude,  and  almost  70  of 
longitude,  it  extends  from  north  to  south  5000  miles,  and  from 
east  to  west  4700  miles,  comprising  an  area  of  11,000,000  square 
miles. 

The  most  striking  feature  of  this  part  of  the  eastern  continent 
is  the  Great  Desert,  an  immense  tract  of  arid  sand,  ranging  from 
the  Atlantic  ocean  to  the  Red  Sea,  and  comprising  an  area  equal  to 
almost  the  one-half  of  Europe.  This  vast  and  almost  boundless 
plain,  exposed  to  the  vertical  rays  of  a  burning  sun,  is  deprived  of 
all  moisture  necessary  to  cover  its  surface  with  vegetation. 

Moving  sands,  tossed  by  the  winds,  and  whirling  in  eddies 
through  the  air,  surround,  and  continually  threaten  to  bury  the 
traveller,  in  his  lengthened  route  through  these  trackless  deserts. 
The  sterility  of  the  scene  is  only  interrupted  by  a  few  islands,  or 
oases,  as  they  are  termed,  scattered  at  wide  intervals  over  this  im- 
measurable waste.  These  spots,  affording  springs,  verdure,  and 
a  few  dates,  support  a  scanty  population,  but  are  chiefly  valuable 
as  places  of  rest  and  refreshment  for  the  caravans. 

The  interior  regions  of  Africa  being  but  imperfectly  known,  it 
is  not  possible  to  detail  accurately  its  mountains  and  rivers :  they 
do  not,  however,  appear  to  equal  the  mighty  snow-capped  ranges 
of  Asia,  or  the  magnificent  water-courses  of  America.  The  rivers 
are  but  few  in  number,  and  none  of  them  are  navigable  to  any  ex- 

679 


508  AFRICA. 

tent  for  large  vessels.  The  Nile  of  Egypt,  the  far-famed  myste- 
rious Niger,  the  Senegal,  the  Gambia,  the  Congo,  the  Orange,  and 
the  Zambeze,  are  the  principal  African  streams. 

The  mountains  are  generally  more  distinguished  for  extent  than 
elevation.  The  Atlas  mountains  in  Northern,  the  Snowy  moun- 
tains in  Southern,  and  those  of  Kong  and  of  the  Moon  in  Central 
Africa,  are  the  principal ;  the  two  last  seem  to  form  in  connexion 
an  almost  unbroken  range  across  it  from  east  to  west.  The 
Crystal  mountains  in  the  interior  of  Congo  and  the  Lupata  chain 
on  the  east  coast,  are  so  little  known,  that  even  their  very  existence 
is  doubted.  Some  ranges  in  Abyssinia  are  described  as  attaining 
a  considerable  elevation ;  but  no  scientific  measurements  have  yet 
been  made  for  ascertaining  that  point. 

Africa  is  the  hottest  region  on  the  globe.  It  lies  mostly  within 
the  tropics,  and  the  influence  of  a  fervid  climate  extends  even 
over  those  portions  which  are  in  the  temperate  zones.  Some  parts 
of  this  region  have  the  most  insalubrious  atmosphere  in  the  world. 
Sierra  Leone,  the  coasts  of  Guinea,  Congo,  and  Zanguebar,  have 
all  been  found  particularly  fatal  to  the  existence  of  Europeans  and 
Americans ;  it  is  only  in  the  most  southern  districts  that  they  find 
a  climate  suited  to  their  constitutions. 

The  Harmattan  of  the  west  coast,  and  the  Khamsin  of  Barbary 
and  Egypt,  are  dry  scorching  winds,  similar  to  the  Simoom  of  Asia 
and  the  Sirocco  of  Southern  Europe;  they  blow  from  the  Great 
Desert  at  certain  periods,  and  are  generated  by  the  action  of  a  tro- 
pical sun  on  its  extensive  and  heated  surface. 

But  little  is  known  of  the  mineral  productions  of  Africa.  Gold 
seems  to  be  widely  diffused  over  Senegambia,  Guinea,  and  Mo- 
zambique ;  it  is  obtained  both  from  the  sand  of  rivers  and  the  soil 
of  alluvial  valleys  and  plains.  Salt  exists  in  various  places  in  the 
Great  Desert,  Abyssinia,  &c,  and  it  forms  an  important  part  of 
the  inland  traffic  of  Africa;  iron  is  found  in  Morocco,  Bambarra, 
and  other  regions ;  silver  in  the  territory  of  Tunis,  and  copper  in 
various  quarters. 

The  force  of  vegetation  in  many  parts  of  Africa  is  very  re- 
markable, and  seems  as  if  designed  by  Providence  to  compensate 
for  the  sterility  of  its  desert  regions.  The  baobab,  or  monkey 
bread-tree,  attains  gigantic  dimensions ;  it  has  a  trunk  often  of  60 
or  70  feet  high  and  30  in  diameter,  and  its  branches  form  a  circle 
sometimes  450  feet  in  circumference.  The  juice  of  the  fruit  is 
highly  beneficial  in  some  dangerous  kinds  of  fe\er,  and  the  leaves, 
powdered,  are  mixed  by  the  natives  with  their  food  for  the  purpose 
of  checking  profuse  perspiration,  and  also  as  a  medicine  in  some 
disorders.  The  date  and  oil-palrn  are  both  useful  productions: 
the  fruit  of  the  former,  on  the  borders  of  the  Great  Desert  and  in 


Palm-Oil  Tree.  Dragon'sT.Iood  Tree. 

The  Palm-oil  tree  is  one  of  the  most  valuable  foand  on  the  coast  of  Guinea.  The  nuts  yield 
the  well-known  palm-oil,  now  so  extensively  used  in  the  manufacture  of  soap,  &c. 

The  Dragon's-blood  tree  grows  to  a  great  size.  One  seen  a  few  years  ago,  in  the  Canary 
Islands,  measured  16  feet  in  diameter.  Dragon's-blood,  a  red-coloured  friable  resin,  used  in  the 
manufacture  of  varnishes,  exudes  from  the  trunk  of  this  tree. 


Double  Cocoa-Nut  Tree  and  Fruit.  Pandanus  Candelabrum. 

The  Double  Cocoa-Nut  grows  in  the  Seychelle  Islands.  It  was  formerly  called  Cocas  de 
Mer  (sea  cocoa-nut),  from  an  idea  that  it  grew  in  the  sea.  These  nuts  were  at  one  time 
believed  to  be  a  preservative  against  all  diseases,  and  an  antidote  for  every  poison ;  and  so 
highly  were  they  valued,  that  several  hundred  dollars  have  been  given  for  one  nut.  Since, 
however,  they  have  been  found  in  the  Seychelles,  the  belief  in  their  imaginary  worth  has 
ceased . 

681 


AFRICA. 


Proteaces  of  several  kinds.  Oleander. 

The  Proteacere  are  a  tribe  of  plants,  of  which  nearly  200  species  are  known  to  be  natives  of 
Southern  Africa.  Many  of  these  are  conspicuous  for  the  beauty  and  magnitude  of  their  flowers. 


Colombo  Plant.  Cape  Heaths  of  different  species. 

The  Colombo  plant,  the  root  of  which  is  well  known  in  medicine  as  a  valuable  remedy,  grows 
spontaneously  along  the  shores  of  Mozambique.  The  natives  dig  up  the  root,  cut  it  into  slices, 
and  stringing  these  on  cords,  dry  them  in  the  eun.  Seeds  of  this  plant  have  been  introduced 
into  the  islands  of  France,  Bourbon,  New  Zealand  and  Tahiti,  with  a  view  to  its  cultivation. 

The  Cape  Colony  has  long  been  interesting  to  the  botanist  for  the  great  number  of  the  Heaths 
found  there.  500  species  and  varieties  are  known,  of  which  some  are  of  singular  boauty  and 
delicacy. 


■^:£y  f 


Mesembryanthomum  Cryatallinum,  or  Ice-Plant.         Leaf  of  the  Hydrogeton  Fenestralis. 
The  Hydrogeton  Fenestralis  is  a  plant  found  in  Madagascar,  whose  leaves  are  pierced  with 
boles  arranged  with  great  regularity,  and  having  the  appearance  of  a  tissue  of  lattice- work. 

082 


AFRICA.  509 

the  Oases,  supply  the  inhabitants  with  the  chief  part  of  their  sus- 
tenance :  and  the  produce  of  the  oil-palm  has  attained  such  im- 
portance, that  8000  tons  of  British  shipping  are  employed  in  its 
exportation  from  the  estuaries  of  the  Niger  alone. 

The  shea,  or  vegetable  butter-tree,  and  the  lotus,  are  useful  and 
curious  products ;  the  farinaceous  berry  of  the  latter,  when  pro- 
perly prepared,  resembles  in  taste  the  sweetest  gingerbread,  and 
furnishes  a  highly  nutritious  food.  The  cassava,  yam,  and  ground- 
nut, are  cultivated  in  various  quarters.  The  banana,  cocoa-nut, 
orange,  lime,  tamarind,  and  pine-apple,  are  the  principal  fruits  of 
the  tropical  regions.  The  acacias,  dragons-blood,  and  gum-sanda- 
rach  trees,  furnish  the  valuable  gums  of  commerce. 

The  cultivated  grains,  Indian-corn,  caffre-corn,  wheat,  barley, 
and  rice,  grow  in  those  places  where  the  soil  is  adapted  for  them, 
and  the  dhourra  is  extensively  raised  in  the  dry  sandy  regions. 
A  considerable  part  of  Barbary,  the  lower  valley  of  the  Nile,  the 
coasts  of  Guinea,  and  many  of  the  lately  explored  districts  of 
Soudan,  appear  to  be  highly  distinguished  for  their  fertility. 

Africa  excels  all  the  other  divisions  of  the  earth  in  the  number 
and  bulk  of  its  animals ;  of  these,  the  quadrupeds  of  burden  are 
highly  important.  The  Arabian  camel,  or  dromedary,  is  now 
spread  over  all  the  northern  and  central  parts  of  this  region,  and 
is  invaluable  for  its  services  in  crossing  the  extensive  and  arid 
deserts  which  cover  so  great  a  portion  of  its  surface  north  of  the 
equator.  The  horses  and  asses  of  Barbary,  those  of  the  Bedouins 
and  of  Egypt,  yield  in  no  respect  to  the  finest  Arabs  either  in 
beauty  of  form  or  spirit.  The  first  of  these  races  was  introduced 
into  Spain  during  the  ascendency  of  the  Moorish  power  in  that 
country,  and  from  it  the  noble  Spanish  breed  of  modern  times  is 
descended.  On  the  west  coast,  south  of  the  Great  Desert,  the  ass 
supplies  the  place  of  the  camel,  being  extensively  used  in  carrying 
on  the  inland  trade  of  the  country. 

Of  horned  cattle  there  are  many  different  varieties.  The  most 
remarkable  are  the  Sanga,  or  Galla  oxen  of  Abyssinia,  with  im- 
mense horns  nearly  four  feet  in  length,  and  a  kindred  race  in  Bor- 
nou,  the  horns  of  which  measure  upwards  of  two  feet  in  circum- 
ference at  the  base,  and  yet  scarcely  weigh  two  pounds  apiece. 

The  most  singular  variety  of  sheep  is  the  broad-tailed  kind, 
whose  tail  grows  so  fat  and  heavy,  that  it  is  said  they  are  fre- 
quently obliged  to  be  supported  on  little  wheel-carriages.  This 
animal  is  common  in  Barbary,  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  in 
different  parts  of  the  continent ;  other  varieties  of  the  sheep,  and 
also  several  of  the  goat,  abound  in  various  quarters ;  the  latter  are 
common  in  many  parts  bordering  on  the  Great  Desert,  feeding  on 
the  dry  aromatic  herbs  which  are  in  places  thinly  scattered. 

43  *  683 


510  AFRICA. 

One  of  the  most  peculiar  of  the  animals  of  this  region  is  the 
chimpanzee,  of  which  it  is  thought  more  than  one  variety  exists 
in  Africa.  It  approaches  much  nearer  to  the  human  form  than 
the  orang-outang  of  Malacca,  Borneo,  and  Sumatra.  Some  of 
the  varieties  of  baboons  attain  a  very  considerable  stature,  and 
from  their  great  strength  and  malicious  disposition,  are  much 
dreaded  by  the  negroes ;  and  they  have  even  been  known  to  de- 
stroy human  beings. 

Carnivorous  and  ferocious  animals  are  extremely  numerous  in 
all  parts  of  Africa.  The  lion,  the  panther,  and  the  leopard,  lurk 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  rivers  and  fountains,  to  surprise  the  different 
species  of  antelopes  and  other  animals ;  but,  unless  pressed  by 
hunger,  these  beasts  rarely  attack  the  inhabitants. 

The  various  species  of  hyenas  are,  properly  speaking,  African, 
one  only  being  found  in  any  other  part  of  the  world.  They  all 
live  upon  offal  and  carrion,  are  nocturnal  in  their  habits,  and 
nightly  visit  the  towns  and  villages,  where  they  prowl  through  the 
streets  till  morning.  The  striped  hyena  abounds  in  Northern  and 
the  spotted  in  Southern  Africa.  The  true  civet  is  found  in  a  state 
of  nature  in  different  quarters,  and  great  numbers  of  them  are 
also  domesticated  and  kept  by  the  inhabitants  for  the  sake  of  their 
perfume.  Nearly  allied  to  the  civet,  are  the  ichneumons.  Of 
these  there  are  four  or  five  distinct  species,  which  wage  incessant 
war  against  the  numerous  serpents  and  other  reptiles  which  infest 
every  part  of  the  country. 

The  elephant  occupies  the  first  rank  among  the  wild  quadrupeds 
of  this  region.  The  African  species,  though  long  confounded  with 
the  Asiatic,  is  now  well  known  to  be  distinct.  These  animals  are 
hunted  by  the  negroes  for  their  teeth,  which  form  the  ivory  of 
commerce,  and  constitute  one  of  the  most  important  articles  of  the 
trade  of  this  region.  They  inhabit  all  the  woody  parts  of  Africa 
south  of  the  Sahara,  and  are  also  found  in  Darfur.  These  huge 
creatures  live  in  herds  of  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hun- 
dred individuals.  They  are  not  now  employed  in  the  service  of 
man,  although  the  ancient  Egyptians  undoubtedly  obtained  war 
elephants  from  Ethiopia. 

The  African  rhinoceros,  like  that  of  Sumatra,  lias  two  horns, 
hut  is  distinguished  from  the  latter  by  having  no  front  or  incisor 
teeth.  The  horns,  as  in  the  East,  are  highly  esteemed  for  their 
supposed  medicinal  virtues,  and  are  also  used  by  the  natives  as 
battle-axes.  The  hippopotamus  is  entirely  an  African  quadruped, 
being  found  in  all  the  large  rivers  and  lakes  south  of  the  Great 
Desert,  and  appears  to  have  occupied  the  same  countries  from  the 
earliest  ages.  He  delights  in  being  in  the  water,  and  stays  there 
as  willingly  as  upon  land. 


AFRICA. 


African  Elephant.  t-'pring-Bok. 

The  Spring- Bok,  or  Mountain  Antelope,  of  Southern  Africa,  is  frequently  seen  in  troops  of 
2000  or  3000  in  number.  They  run  extremely  quick,  and,  if  impeded  in  their  course,  will 
spring  to  the  height  of  four  or  five  feet,  clearing  ten  or  twelve  feet  at  a  bound.  The  beautiful 
form  of  this  animal,  its  elegant  markings,  and  the  incredible  lightness  and  grace  of  its  motion, 
render  it  extremely  interesting. 


African  Lion. 


African  Camel,  or  Dromedary. 


Hippopotamus.  Harnessed  Antelope. 

The  Hurnessed  Antelope  is  a  beautiful  animal,  about  the  size  of  a  fallow  deer ;  the  ground 
colour  of  a  bright  bay,  but  marked  with  white  stripes  in  various  directions,  and  with  such 
regularity,  as  to  give  the  idea  that  a  harness  of  some  white  material  was  thrown  over  its  body. 
It  abounds  in  Western  Africa  over  a  large  extent  of  country. 

3H  685 


AFRICA. 


Northern  Giraffe. 


Civet  Cat,  of  Abyssinia. 


Common  Baboon. 


Green  Monkey,  of  Western  Africa. 


Egyptian  Goat. 


Hunting  Hyena,  of  Southern  Africa. 


Egyptian  Ichneumon. 


AFRICA.  511 

The  zebra,  the  dow,  and  the  quagga,  abound  in  nearly  all  the 
known  parts  of  Central  and  Southern  Africa.  These  beautiful 
animals,  equally  remarkable  for  the  symmetry  of  their  forms,  the 
rapidity  of  their  course,  and  the  regularity  of  their  colours  and 
markings,  associate  in  large  herds  upon  the  open  plains,  and  are 
the  frequent  prey  of  the  lion. 

The  camelopard,  or  giraffe,  is  peculiar  to  Africa,  and  is  found 
from  the  Orange  river  as  far  as  Nubia,  although  it  is  said  there  is 
a  difference  between  those  of  the  north  and  the  south.  Two  or 
three  species  of  the  wild  buffalo  inhabit  the  woods  and  marshy 
grounds  of  the  interior.  The  bos  caffer,  or  wild  buffalo  of  the 
Cape,  has  the  base  of  the  horns  extending  all  over  the  top  of  the 
head  and  forehead,  in  the  manner  of  a  helmet.  He  is  a  savage, 
dangerous  animal,  and  is  much  dreaded  by  travellers.  Antelopes 
and  gazelles  are  numerous.  Of  the  former  there  are  more  than 
sixty  different  species.  Multitudes  of  these  fall  a  prey  to  the  lion, 
the  leopard  and  panther. 

Among  the  animals  which  inhabit  the  seas  and  coasts  of  Africa 
is  the  lamantin,  which  frequents  the  mouths  of  the  great  rivers  on 
the  Atlantic  and  Indian  Ocean,  and  feeds  upon  the  aquatic  plants 
that  it  can  reach  along  the  shores.  It  was  this  creature  which, 
from  the  habit  of  raising  itself  half  out  of  the  water,  especially 
when  in  the  act  of  suckling  its  young,  gave  origin  to  the  fable  of 
the  mermaid,  by  which  name  it  is  often  mentioned  by  ancient 
African  voyagers  and  travellers. 

The  most  peculiar  and  important  of  the  birds  of  Africa  is  the 
ostrich.  It  abounds  in  all  the  desert  sandy  regions,  and  is  a  very 
cautious  and  shy  animal ;  it  is  hunted  by  men  on  horseback,  who 
chase  it  in  succession  until  the  bird  is  worn  down  with  fatigue. 
The  wild  Hottentots  of  Southern  Africa  also  kill  it  by  disguising 
themselves  in  imitation  of  the  ostrich,  and  thus  approach  suffi- 
ciently near  to  shoot  it  with  their  poisoned  arrows.  This  bird, 
when  full-grown,  is  from  seven  to  nine  feet  high,  and  weighs  from 
70  to  80  pounds.  It  is  affirmed  that  it  never  drinks,  but  is,  of  all 
animals,  the  most  voracious,  swallowing  lead,  glass,  metals,  &c. 
The  large  feathers  of  the  ostrich  form  a  considerable  article  of 
trade  from  several  parts  of  the  continent. 

Similar  to  the  ostrich  in  many  of  their  habits,  and  even  some- 
what in  appearance,  are  the  bustards,  many  different  species  of 
which  inhabit  the  Great  Karroo,  and  the  arid  plains  of  the  south- 
ern districts.  The  Guinea-fowl,  the  only  African  bird  adapted  to 
the  barn-yard,  is  found  exclusively  in  this  region.  There  are 
three  or  four  distinct  species :  they  collect  in  flocks  of  400  or 
500,  and  frequent  the  underwood  and  bushes  in  the  vicinity  of 
ponds  and  rivers.     There  are  many  species  of  partridges  and 


512  AFRICA. 

grouse,  also  water-fowl  in  abundance,  on  the  rivers  and  lakes ; 
various  species  of  owls,  falcons,  &c. 

The  vultures,  like  the  hyenas  among  the  quadrupeds,  are  highly 
useful  in  consuming  the  offal  and  carrion,  which  might  otherwise 
taint  the  air,  and  produce  disease.  One  of  the  most  remarkable 
of  the  species  is  the  secretary  vulture,  which  may  be  not  impro- 
perly described  as  an  eagle  mounted  on  the  long  naked  legs  of  a 
crane.  This  bird  preys  exclusively  on  serpents,  which  it  pursues 
on  foot,  and  destroys  in  great  numbers. 

The  smaller  birds  of  Africa  comprise  many  species  remarkable 
for  the  gaudiness  and  brilliancy  of  their  plumage,  or  the  singu- 
larity of  their  manners  and  economy.  Of  the  former  kind  may 
be  mentioned  the  innumerable  varieties  of  parrots  and  parroquets, 
which,  from  the  size  of  a  sparrow,  upwards  to  that  of  a  raven, 
swarm  in  all  the  forests,  and  make  the  woods  resound  with  their 
hoarse,  unmusical  screams.  Of  the  latter,  it  will  be  sufficient  to 
mention  the  honey  cuckoo,  and  the  little  bird  called  the  republican. 

The  crocodile  inhabits  all  the  large  rivers  of  the  tropical  parts 
of  Africa,  and  is  still  abundant  in  the  Nile,  below  the  first  cata- 
ract. Different  species  of  chameleons  may  be  seen  in  various 
quarters,  on  every  hedge  or  shrub;  and  the  enormous  python,  a 
serpent  thirty  feet  long,  lurks  in  the  fens  and  morasses.  Among 
the  venomous  species  are  the  asp,  the  dipsas,  and  the  cerastes,  or 
horned  viper.  In  the  south,  the  garter-snake,  the  puff-adder, 
and  other  species  are  employed  by  the  Bushmen  to  poison  their 
arrows. 

Of  the  insect  tribes,  Africa  also  contains  many  thousand  dif- 
ferent kinds.  The  locust  has 'been,  from  time  immemorial,  the 
proverbial  scourge  of  this  part  of  the  world  :  scorpions,  scarcely 
less  to  be  dreaded  than  the  noxious  serpents,  are  very  abun- 
dant ;  and  the  zebub,  or  fly,  one  of  the  instruments  employed  by 
the  Almighty  to  punish  the  Egyptians  of  old,  is  still  the  plague 
of  the  low  and  cultivated  districts.  The  termites,  or  white  ants, 
found  along  the  coast  of  Guinea,  are  among  the  most  singular  of 
the  insect  tribes :  they  build  conical  houses,  ten  or  twelve  feet 
high,  which  are  divided  into  apartments,  with  magazines  for  pro- 
visions, arched  chambers,  and  galleries  of  communication. 

The  processes  of  agriculture  and  manufacture  are,  in  Africa, 
performed  generally  in  a  rude  and  imperfect  manner.  The  soil, 
however,  is  cultivated  to  a  considerable  extent ;  and,  owing  to  its 
fertility,  the  earth  renders  back  to  the  cultivator  the  seed  increased 
an  hundred  fold. 

Some  coarse  fabrics  are  made,  particularly  those  of  cotton- 
cloth,  mats,  and  articles  of  leather ;  and  gold  ornaments  are  very 
widely  diffused  :  a  few  rude  implements  of  iron  are  manufactured 


AFRICA. 


S^2*" 


The  Ostrich. 


The  Dodo,  a  bird  no  longer  known  to  exisl,  was  a  former  inhabitant  of  the  isles  of  France 
snd  Roderique,  in  the  Indian  Ocean.  It  was  somewhat  similar  to,  but  larger  than  a  goose. 
An  entire  specimen  of  this  bird  existed  in  England,  at  the  commencement  of  the  last  century. 
There  is  at  present  a  bill  of  the  Dodo,  in  the  Ashmolean,  and  a  foot  in  the  British  Museum, 
London,  said  to  have  belonged  to  the  specimen  alluded  to. 


Snake-eater  of  South  Africa. 
3H* 


AFRICA. 


Nubian  Bustard. 


Crested  Kingfisher,  South  Africa. 


Plantain  Eater  of  West  Africa.    Crowned  Eagle,  West  Africa.  Abyssinian  Hornbill. 


Barbary  Shrike. 


Abyssinian  Plant-cutter. 


Paradise  Fly-catcher  of  South  Africa. 


AFRICA.  513 

in  Western  Africa,  in  Soudan,  and  also  amongst  the  Boshuanas. 
In  Barbary,  the  common  mechanic  arts  are  understood  only  in  a 
limited  degree;  but  in  Egypt,  the  introduction  of  the  improvements 
of  Christian  Europe  has  already  rendered  the  people  of  that 
country  greatly  superior  to  the  surrounding  Asiatic  and  African 
nations. 

The  maritime  commerce  of  Africa  is  carried  on  principally  with 
the  European  colonies  and  the  states  to  which  they  belong  ;  on  the 
east  coast  by  the  Arabs,  and  from  that  of  Berbora,  with  the  Hin- 
doos ;  and  at  the  port  of  Alexandria  in  Egypt,  a  considerable 
trade  with  various  nations  of  Europe  exists.  The  chief  com- 
merce of  the  interior  is  performed  by  caravans,  consisting  of 
numbers  of  camels  and  merchants,  which  cross  the  Great  Desert 
in  various  directions.  By  these  perilous  journeys  the  traders  pro- 
cure considerable  quantities  of  gold,  ivory,  and  slaves  :  of  these 
unfortunate  beings,  it  is  estimated  that  20,000  are  annually  con- 
veyed across  the  desert  and  distributed  over  Barbary,  Egypt, 
Turkey,  and  Persia.  They  serve  generally  as  domestic  slaves, 
and  are,  on  the  whole,  mildly  treated. 

A  severer  lot  awaits  those  who,  from  the  western  shores  of  Africa, 
are  carried  off  by  European  navigators :  after  suffering  through 
the  passage,  hardships  which  prove  fatal  to  a  large  proportion, 
they  are  sold  chiefly  in  Brazil  and  the  West  Indies,  where  they 
are  employed  in  the  labours  of  the  field.  It  is  calculated  that 
during  the  flourishing  period  of  the  slave-trade,  80,000  were  annu- 
ally transported  across  the  Atlantic.  Great  Britain  and  the  United 
States  were  formerly  deeply  engaged  in  this  traffic,  but  both  na- 
tions have,  some  time  since,  abolished  it.  France  afterwards  fol- 
lowed the  example ;  and  thus  the  export  of  slaves  from  the  north- 
ern part  of  Guinea  has  in  a  great  measure  been  prevented,  though 
the  numbers  still  procured  from  the  southern  shores  of  Benin  and 
Congo,  by  the  Spaniards  and  Portuguese,  are  but  little  diminished. 

In  various  parts  of  Soudan  and  Senegambia,  a  traffic  between 
the  coast  and  the  interior  is  kept  up  by  means  of  coffles,  formed 
of  large  droves  of  asses;  and  many  articles  are  also  carried  for 
hundreds  of  miles  on  the  heads  of  slaves,  both  male  and  female. 
A  limited  intercourse  with  the  countries  on  the  Niger  takes  place, 
by  means  of  native  boats,  with  the  European  traders,  at  the 
mouths  of  the  various  estuaries  of  that  stream. 

The  chief  part  of  the  population  of  Africa  is  composed  of  ne- 
groes, who,  though  inferior  in  arts  and  attainments  to  the  other 
races,  are  generally  good-natured  and  hospitable.  Like  all  bar- 
barous nations,  they  are  fond  of  war,  and  cruel  to  their  enemies ; 
but  their  domestic  intercourse  is  friendly,  and  they  receive  with 
kindness  the  unprotected  stranger.     They  are  led  away  with  fan- 


514  AFRICA. 

tastic  superstitions,  charms,  witchcraft,  ordeal,  &c. ;  but  these 
errors  never  impel  them  to  hate  or  persecute  those  who  entertain 
the  most  opposite  belief.  Their  external  aspect  is  well  known, 
being  marked  by  a  deep  black  colour,  flat  nose,  thick  lips,  and 
coarse  hair  like  wool. 

The  next  great  division  of  the  people  of  Africa  are  the  Moors, 
including  the  descendants  of  the  original  Arab  invaders,  and  those 
whom  conquest  and  religion  have  assimilated  with  them.  They 
reach  the  banks  of  the  Senegal  and  the  Niger,  which  may  be  con- 
sidered as  the  boundary  of  the  two  races,  though  they  mingle  and 
alternate  on  the  opposite  sides,  where  sometimes  one,  sometimes 
another,  hold  the  chief  sway.  These  people  are  deeply  embrowned 
by  the  influence  of  the  sun,  but  have  not  the  least  of  the  negro 
colour  or  aspect. 

The  Moors  are  a  rough  roving  race,  keeping  numerous  herds, 
chiefly  of  camels,  with  which  they  perform  immense  journeys 
through  the  most  desolate  tracts,  and  across  the  greatest  breadth 
of  the  continent.  Africa  is  indebted  to  them  for  all  the  literature 
she  possesses ;  at  least  few  of  the  negroes  can  read  or  write,  who 
have  not  learned  from  them.  The  Moors,  however,  at  least  all 
that  inhabit  the  desert,  are  a  race  peculiarly  unamiable.  A  furious 
bigotry,  joined  to  the  most  embittered  hatred  of  the  Christian  name, 
renders  them  mortal  foes  to  every  European  traveller  who  falls 
into  their  power. 

Of  the  subordinate  races,  the  Fellatas  of  Soudan,  and  the  Fou- 
lahs  of  Senegambia,  supposed  to  be  the  same  people,  have  been, 
for  some  time,  acquiring  power  and  distinction  in  Central  and 
Western  Africa.  The  Somaulies  of  the  east  coast  are  but  little 
known ;  they  are  represented  to  be  of  mild  and  peaceable  habits, 
and  are  engaged  in  traffic  and  commerce.  The  Caffres  and  the 
Hottentots  of  Southern  Africa  are  also  peculiar  races,  both  pasto- 
ral in  their  habits ;  the  former  are  often  engaged  in  war,  and  are 
amongst  the  most  formidable  in  battle  of  the  native  tribes. 

The  Mahomedan  and  Pagan  are  the  systems  of  religion  most 
prevalent  in  this  part  of  the  world  ;  the  former  has  been  estab- 
lished over  all  Northern  Africa,  and  also  in  Soudan  and  on  the 
east  coast.  The  priests,  or  moolahs,  of  this  faith  have  great  in- 
fluence with  the  natives,  teaching  the  children  to  read  the  Koran, 
&c,  and  converting  many  of  the  Pagan  inhabitants  to  the  religion 
of  the  false  prophet.  Among  the  Pagan  negroes  the  most  disgust- 
ing Fetishism  prevails,  demanding  from  many  of  its  votaries 
human  sacrifices,  and  the  most  disgusting  and  foolish  rites  and 
observances. 

The  population  of  Africa  has  been  variously  estimated  by  dif- 
ferent writers  at  from  50,000,000  to  150,000,000;  but,  as  nothing 


AFRICA. 


White  Ants'  Nests.  White  Ants. 

The  White  Ants,  or  Termites,  found  in  Western  Africa,  display  a  wonderful  economy. 
They  build  conical  structures  so  strong  and  firmly  cemented,  as  to  bear  the  weight  of  three  or 
four  men  ;  and  on  the  plains  of  Senegal,  they  appear  like  the  villages  of  the  natives.  The 
destruction  they  effect  is  remarkably  rapid  :  they  destroy  furniture,  books,  clothes,  and  timber, 
of  whatever  magnitude,  leaving  merely  a  thin  surface,  and  in  a  few  hours  a  large  beam  will  be 
eaten  to  a  mere  shell,  not  thicker  than  writing-paper. 


Caravan  crossing  the  Great  Desert. 


AFRICA. 


Horsemanship  and  Amusements  of  the  Moors. 


Manner  in  which  the  Arabs  in  Morocco  move  their  families  from  place  to  placo. 


Battle  of  Algiers. 


694 


BARBARA 


515 


but  vague  conjecture  can  be  employed  in  their  calculations,  even 
in  relation  to  those  parts  of  the  continent  best  known  and  explored, 
it  is  evident  that  these  cannot  be  regarded  in  any  other  light  than 
as  a  mere  expression  of  opinion.  The  following  estimate  forms  a 
medium  between  the  highest  and  lowest : 


Sq.  M. 

Population. 

10,000,000 

Egypt 180,000  .. 

2,500,000 

JNubia 320,000.. 

500,000 

Abyssinia 280,000  .. 

3,000,000 

Great  Desert...  2,600,000  .. 

300,000 

Bergoo.Darfur.&c  540,000  .. 

1,200,000 

Senegambia....     850,000  .. 

7,000,000 

Sq.  M. 

Population. 

Upper  Guinea. 

280,000  . 

.    6,500,000 

Lower  Guinea.. 

260,000  . 

.    5,500,000 

Southern  Africa 

480,000  . 

.     1,500,000 

Eastern  Africa. 

600,000  . 

.    3,000,000 

Central  Africa.. 

3,830,000  . 

.  13,000,000 

African  Islands. 

210,000  . 

.    3,000,000 

Total 11,000,000  .. .  57,000,000 


BARBARY. 

Barbary  is  that  portion  of  Northern  Africa  stretching  eastward 
from  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  including  Morocco,  Algiers,  Tunis,  and 
Tripoli.  It  extends  about  2100  miles  from  east  to  west,  and  is 
traversed  by  the  Atlas  Mountains,  of  which  the  loftiest  pinnacles 
rise  above  the  plains  of  Morocco  to  the  height  of  11,400  feet;  in 
Algiers  and  Tunis,  however,  they  seldom  exceed  3000  or  4000 
feet;  and  in  the  territory  of  Tripoli,  gradually  subside  to  that  fiat, 
sterile  surface  which  characterizes  Northern  Africa. 

The  rivers  are  all  unimportant,  none  of  them,  probably,  being 
more  than  200  miles  in  their  length  of  course.  The  principal  are 
the  Tensift,  Morbeya,  and  Seboo ;  these  flow  into  the  Atlantic 
Ocean,  and  the  Moulouia,  Shillef,  and  Mejerdah,  or  Bagrada,  into 
the  Mediterranean  Sea. 

Between  the  mountains  and  the  sea,  there  is  a  tract  of  well-wa- 
tered, fertile  country,  from  50  to  100  miles  in  width:  this  is  the 
most  productive  and  best  inhabited  portion  of  Barbary.  South  of 
the  mountains,  and  between  them  and  the  Great  Desert,  is  another 
tract,  dry  and  sandy,  called  the  BeledelJerid,  or  Land  of  Dates. 

In  Barbary,  vegetation  is  vigorous  and  abundant ;  all  the  fruits 
of  Southern  Europe  come  to  perfection ;  the  excellence  of  the 
olive  is  particularly  noted ;  the  vine  flourishes,  though  the  reli- 
gious system  of  the  natives  forbids  them  from  converting  the  grape 
into  wine,  even  for  exportation.  Wheat  and  barley  are  the  grains 
usually  cultivated,  and,  notwithstanding  the  imperfection  of  the 
cultivation,  such  is  the  fertility  of  the  soil  and  the  want  of  a  manu- 
facturing population  to  consume  its  produce,  that  a  large  surplus 
accumulates  in  every  State,  which  forms,  when  permitted,  the  sta- 
ple article  of  export. 


516  AFRICA. 

The  trade  of  Barbary  is  limited ;  the  exports  consisting  chiefly 
in  the  raw  produce  of  the  soil.  In'  ancient  times  the  African  coast 
formed  the  granary  of  the  Roman  Empire  ;  and  its  corn  continued 
to  find  a  ready  market  in  Southern  Europe  till  its  exportation 
was  prohibited  by  the  absurd  policy  of  all  the  Barbary  States  ex- 
cept Tunis :  even  there,  it  is  loaded  with  heavy  imposts. 

The  most  active  commerce  of  these  States  is  that  by  the  cara- 
vans with  the  interior  country,  south  of  the  Great  Desert.  Tripoli 
sends  hers  by  Fezzan  to  Bornou  and  Houssa ;  Tunis,  by  Gadames 
and  Tuat,  to  Timbuctoo ;  Morocco  across  the  broadest  part  of  the 
desert  to  the  same  city,  and  the  countries  on  the  Senegal.  Into 
these  regions  the  caravans  carry  salt,  with  various  articles  of  Eu- 
ropean manufacture. 

The  Barbary  States,  particularly  Algiers,  Tunis,  and  Tripoli, 
were  formerly  engaged  in  piracy  :  but  the  first  is  now  a  subject 
State ;  the  others  possess  but  few  ships,  and  their  naval  strength  is 
almost  entirely  prostrated.  In  their  piratical  expeditions  the  Bar- 
bary corsairs  exhibited  much  courage  and  fierceness,  and  their  cap- 
tives were  generally  reduced  to  the  most  galling  slavery.  The 
subjects  of  nearly  all  the  maritime  powers  of  Europe,  and  also  the 
citizens  of  the  United  States,  were  once,  more  or  less,  exposed  to 
their  depredations. 

The  government  of  these  countries  is  formed  on  the  Turkish 
model ;  being,  for  the  most  part,  a  pure  despotism,  in  which  but 
little  trace  of  order,  liberty,  or  regular  authority,  exists.  The 
only  check  on  the  tyranny  and  cruelty  of  the  rulers  is  found  in 
the  tumultuary  sway  of  a  brutal  and  licentious  soldiery,  who,  par- 
ticularly in  Algiers,  set  up,  deposed,  and  massacred  the  chief  ma- 
gistrate at  pleasure.  In  Tunis  and  Tripoli,  some  amelioration  has 
of  late  taken  place ;  but  in  Morocco,  the  sovereigns  of  modern 
times  are,  if  possible,  more  absolute  and  cruel  than  formerly. 

The  Moors,  Arabs,  and  Berbers,  are  the  principal  races  that 
inhabit  this  part  of  Africa.  The  first-named  reside  chiefly  in  the 
cities  and  towns  :  they  are  generally  of  middle  stature,  and  of  va- 
rious shades  of  complexion.  Like  all  the  other  inhabitants  of  Bar- 
bary, they  are  rigid  Mahomedans,  and  hate  and  despise  the  Chris- 
tians and  Jews  most  heartily. 

Those  among  the  Moors  who  do  not  labour,  are  excessively 
indolent,  and  averse  to  exertion ;  and  have  hardly  any  employ- 
ment or  amusement  except  riding  on  horseback,  and  playing  chess. 
In  the  former,  they  exhibit  considerable  skill ;  and  the  feats  of 
some  individuals  are  rather  remarkable.  The  most  conspicuous 
object  in  the  dress  of  the  Moors,  and  also  of  the  Arabs,  is  the 
haick,  a  large  piece  of  woollen  cloth,  five  or  six  yards  long,  and 
one  and  a  half  wide,  folded  loosely  round  the  body,  and  fastened 


BARBARY.  517 

with  a  girdle  round  the  waist.  On  the  head,  the  Moors  wear  a 
pointed  red  cap,  with  a  turban  or  sash  wrapped  around  it. 

Among  these  people,  the  women  are  considered  beautiful  in  pro- 
portion  to  their  bulk;  and  corpulency  is,  in  the  female  sex,  anx- 
iously promoted.  They  dye  their  hair,  feet,  and  finger-nails,  of 
a  yellowish  colour,  with  an  herb  called  henna,  and  load  themselves 
with  rings  and  bracelets,  both  on  the  arms  and  ancles.  In  all 
these  countries,  the  women,  as  among  other  Mahomedan  nations, 
live  in  strict  retirement,  and  never  appear  in  public  without  being 
closely  veiled. 

The  Arabs  of  Africa  are,  no  doubt,  originally  the  same  people 
as  those  of  Arabia.  In  Barbary,  they  overspread  all  the  unoccu- 
pied fertile  plains,  keeping  large  herds  of  camels,  horses,  cattle, 
&c. ;  cultivate  the  ground,  and,  when  one  spot  is  exhausted,  they 
remove  to  another.  They  are  often  engaged  in  war  with  each 
other,  with  the  Berbers,  or  the  forces  of  the  states  that  exact  tribute 
from  them.  Their  encampments  are  formed  of  tents,  pitched  in  a 
circle,  hence  called  douars :  each  of  these  is  under  the  sway  of 
its  own  sheik ;  and  the  union  of  a  number  of  encampments  is  go- 
verned by  an  emir.  The  people,  like  all  the  Arab  tribes,  are 
equally  noted  for  robbery  and  hospitality,  often  plundering  those 
who  had  previously  been  the  objects  of  their  bounty.  They  own 
but  a  nominal  subjection  to  the  government  of  the  states  in  which 
they  reside. 

The  Berbers  inhabit  the  Atlas  mountains,  and  the  country 
called  the  Beled  el  Jerid.  They  speak  a  peculiar  language,  and 
are  supposed  to  be  the  descendants  of  the  ancient  Numidians. 
The  Shelluhs  of  the  southern  Atlas,  the  Errifi,  bordering  on  Al- 
giers, and  the  Kabyles,  in  that  state,  are  all  tribes  of  this  race. 
Those  of  the  Atlas  live  chiefly  by  hunting,  tilling  the  ground,  and. 
raising  bees :  they  are  mostly  independent,  elect  their  own  chiefs, 
and  have,  what  is  rare  in  Africa,  a  republican  form  of  govern- 
ment. 

These  people  are  athletic  and  hardy  ;  they  are  dexterous  marks- 
men with  the  musket,  and  their  valour,  and  the  rugged  nature  of 
the  country,  render  them  almost  invincible.  In  their  contests 
with  the  Moorish  states,  they  occasionally  descend  to  the  level 
country,  and  carry  their  inroads  to  the  very  gates  of  Morocco, 
and  other  large  cities.  The  Tuaricks  and  Tibboos,  of  the  Great 
Desert,  and  the  people  of  Nubia,  are  believed  to  be  all  branches 
of  the  same  race. 

The  next  class  of  inhabitants  are  the  Jews  :  of  these  there  are 
great  numbers  in  Barbary,  who  are  much  despised,  taxed,  and 
abused,  yet  are  permitted  to  engross  almost  every  species  of  trade 
and  commerce.     They  coin  the  money,  and  are  also  the  principal 

44  3 1  697 


518  AFRICA. 

mechanics.     Many  of  them  acquire  great   wealth,  which   they 
carefully  conceal,  lest  their  rapacious  rulers  should  rob  them  of  it. 

Besides  these  races,  there  are  many  negroes,  brought  originally 
from  interior  Africa.  In  Morocco,  they  form  the  standing  army 
of  that  empire,  and  the  body-guard  of  the  sovereign. 

Barbary  was  much  more  populous  and  flourishing  in  ancient 
than  in  modern  times.  Carthage,  Numidia,  and  Mauritania,  were 
all,  particularly  the  former,  renowned  and  important  states.  The 
Carthaginians,  celebrated  for  their  extensive  commerce,  were,  for 
a  time,  the  merchants  and  traders  of  the  ancient  world.  Rendered 
illustrious  by  their  rivalry  with  Rome,  and  their  mighty  struggle 
for  universal  empire,  the  people  of  Carthage  were  not  less  distin- 
guished by  their  glorious  fall. 

These  districts,  being  incorporated  into  the  Roman  empire,  became 
noted  for  their  fertility.  Conquered  afterwards  in  succession  by 
the  Vandals  and  the  Saracens,  the  aspect  and  character  of  the 
provinces  of  Northern  Africa  became  completely  changed.  Fez, 
and  other  cities,  were,  for  a  time,  celebrated  capitals,  and  distin- 
guished for  their  learning  and  civilization ;  by  degrees,  however, 
they  lost  their  light  and  intelligence,  and  finally,  under  the  blight- 
ing influence  of  bigotry  and  superstition,  the  whole  region  has 
become  rude,  ignorant,  and  barbarous. 

EXTENT  AND  POPULATION  OF  THE  BARBARY  STATES. 


Sq.  M. 

.     90,000  . 

Population. 

.  6,000,000 
.  1,500,000 
.  1,000,000 

Sq.  M. 
Tripoli,  &c...  100,000  . 
Beled  el  Jerid  140,000  . 
Total 570,000  . 

Population. 
.      600,000 
.      900,000 
.    10,000,00 

MOR 

occo. 

The  empire  of  Morocco  occupies  that  part  of  Africa  which  lies 
nearest  to  Europe.  It  is  the  largest  and  most  important  part  of 
the  Barbary  States,  and  has  two  sea-coasts ;  one  extending  along 
the  Mediterranean  Sea,  the  other  along  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  The 
territories  of  this  State  extend  about  800  miles  in  length,  and  from 
200  to  300  in  breadth,  and  contain  an  area  of  190,000  square 
miles. 

The  loftiest  part  of  the  chain  of  the  Atlas  mountains  runs  par- 
allel to  the  coasts  of  Morocco,  leaving  an  intermediate  plain,  finely 
watered,  and  not  surpassed  in  natural  fertility  by  any  part  of  the 
globe.  Beyond  the  range  of  the  Atlas,  however,  the  empire  in- 
cludes a  more  arid  region,  named  Tafilelt,  yielding  the  finest  dates 
in  the  world,  and  rearing  a  breed  of  goats  whose  skin  affords  the 
materials  for  the  fine  Morocco  leather. 


BARBARY.  519 

In  the  southern  part  of  this  territory,  and  bordering  on  the 
Great  Desert,  is  the  district  of  Suse,  a  fruitful  and  well-settled 
country,  over  which  the  Emperor  pretends  to  assume  authority 
which  is  not,  however,  recognized  by  the  people.  It  contains  a 
number  of  little  walled  towns  and  villages,  under  the  control  of 
petty  chiefs,  who  are  frequently  at  war  with  each  other,  and  also 
with  the  Moors  and  the  Arabs  of  the  desert. 

Spain  possesses,  on  the  coast  of  the  Mediterranean,  the  fortified 
towns  of  Ceuta,  Mellila,  and  Penon  de  Velez,  but  without  any  ter- 
ritory attached  to  them  ;  and  this  is  now  the  only  memorial  of  the 
long  and  deadly  wars  waged  between  the  two  nations. 

Industry  and  commerce  have,  in  this  empire,  a  very  limited 
range.  Some  hides,  goat-skins,  olive-oil,  almonds,  ostrich-feathers, 
&c,  are  shipped  from  Mogadore,  which  is  the  only  port  at  which 
foreigners  are  permitted  to  trade.  The  usual  traffic  of  the  Bar- 
bary  States  is  carried  on  from  Morocco  with  Interior  Africa.  The 
most  important  manufacture  is  that  of  the  leather,  which  bears  the 
name  of  the  country.  It  is  noted  for  its  fine  and  durable  colour, 
which  Europeans  are  unable  fully  to  imitate. 

The  government  of  this  State  is  a  pure  despotism ;  and  every 
right  and  privilege  enjoyed  by  the  people,  depends  upon  the  mere 
will  and  caprice  of  the  sovereign.  The  emperors  of  Morocco  claim 
the  crown  as  descendants  of  Mahomed,  and  seek  to  increase  the 
dignity  of  the  throne  by  assuming  the  character  of  prophets  and 
saints,  which,  however,  they  do  not  consider  inconsistent  with 
the  most  unbounded  indulgence  of  cruelty  and  sensuality.  Some 
of  these  princes  have  been  among  the  most  bloody  and  remorse- 
less despots  on  record.  Hence,  in  consequence  of  their  tyranny, 
insurrections  and  appeals  to  arms,  especially  by  the  remote  moun- 
tain tribes,  are  of  frequent  occurrence. 

Morocco,  the  capital,  is  situated  on  a  very  extensive  plain,  above 
which  rises  one  of  the  loftiest  ranges  of  the  Atlas.  The  mosques 
are  numerous,  and  several  of  them  present  striking  specimens  of 
Arabian  architecture,  particularly  that  called  El  Koutouben,  the 
tower  of  which  is  220  feet  high.  The  palace  forms  an  oblong  of 
1500  by  600  yards,  divided  into  a  number  of  inclosures,  where, 
surrounded  by  gardens,  are  the  pavilions  of  the  sovereign,  his 
principal  officers,  and  ladies.  Fine  gardens  surround  the  city, 
and  spacious  aqueducts,  conveying  water  from  the  mountains, 
twenty  miles  distant,  bear  testimony  to  a  superior  state  of  the  arts 
in  former  times.  The  inhabitants  are  estimated  at  from  70,000 
10  100,000  in  number. 

Fez  is  situated  in  the  northern  part  of  the  empire,  in  a  fine,  fer- 
tile district,  and  surrounded  by  numerous  groves  and  orchards.  It 
is  a  place  of  high  celebrity,  and  ranked  long  as  the  metropolis 


520  AFRICA. 

of  Western  Africa.  This  city  was  founded  about  the  end  of 
the  eighth  century,  and  rose  to  great  magnitude  and  distinction. 
Its  mosques,  schools,  and  baths,  were  very  celebrated.  This  place 
is  now  much  decayed,  and  presents  a  singular  mixture  of  splen- 
dour and  ruin.  It,  however,  still  possesses  some  remains  of  the 
sciences  which  formerly  rendered  it  illustrious;  but  they  are  nearly 
confined  to  the  Koran  and  its  commentators,  a  slight  tincture  of 
grammar  and  logic,  and  some  very  imperfect  astronomical  obser- 
vations.    The  population  is  estimated  at  80,000. 

Mequinez  has  risen  to  importance  by  having  been  made  the 
occasional  residence  of  the  sovereign.  The  imperial  treasury  in 
this  city  is  reported  to  contain  money  and  jewels  to  the  amount  of 
$50,000,000.  The  inhabitants  are  said  to  be  more  polished  and 
hospitable,  and  the  females  handsomer,  than  in  the  other  cities  of 
Morocco :  population,  60,000. 

Mogadore,  the  chief  emporium  of  Morocco,  was  founded  in  1760, 
by  the  emperor  Sidi  Mahomed,  who  spared  no  pains  in  raising  it 
to  importance.  Being  composed  of  houses  of  white  stone,  it 
makes  a  fine  appearance  from  the  sea ;  but  the  interior  presents 
the  usual  gloom  of  Moorish  cities,  and  is  chiefly  enlivened  by  the 
residences  of  the  European  merchants  and  consuls.  The  country 
round  is  almost  a  desert  of  sand  ;  water  is  scarce,  and  provisions 
must  be  brought  from  the  distance  of  several  miles.  The  popula- 
tion is  reckoned  at  about  10,000. 

Saflee,  a  very  ancient  town,  with  a  fine  harbour,  though  in  a 
barren  country,  was  the  chief  seat  of  the  commerce  with  Europe, 
till  the  preference  of  the  emperor  transferred  it  to  Mogadore : 
population,  12,000. 

Farther  north,  on  the  opposite  sides  of  a  small  river,  are  the 
important  towns  of  Sallee  and  Rabat.  Sallee,  once  the  terror  of 
the  seas,  whence  issued  such  bands  of  pirates,  is  now  still  and  life- 
less. What  remains  of  its  commerce  has  been  mostly  transferred 
across  the  river  to  Rabat,  or  New  Sallee.  This  place,  when  viewed 
from  without,  presents  a  picturesque  grouping  of  minarets,  palm- 
trees,  ruined  walls,  and  old  mosques.  The  town  has  still  some 
activity,  and  the  markets  are  well  supplied:  population,  18,000. 

Larache  was  once  a  flourishing  European  and  Christian  town  ; 
but  the  churches  are  now  converted  into  mosques.  It  has  been 
made  the  imperial  arsenal,  and  is  very  strong  towards  the  sea. 
Tangier,  on  the  straits,  derives  its  chief  importance  from  the  per- 
mission granted  by  the  emperor  to  supply  Gibraltar  with  provi- 
sions, and  from  the  residence  of  European  consuls.  Tetuan,  the 
only  port  within  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar,  is  allowed  to  carry  on 
some  intercourse  with  the  English,  whose  vessels  often  take  in 
supplies  there  on  their  way  up  the  Mediterranean. 


BARBARY.  521 


ALGIERS,  OR  ALGERIA. 

Algiers  (now  called  Algeria  by  the  French),  once  the  most 
powerful  and  enterprising  naval  state  in  Africa,  and  the  terror  of 
the  people  of  Southern  Europe,  has  become  a  colonial  appendage 
of  the  kingdom  of  France.  It  embraces  a  considerable  territory, 
extending  along  the  northern  coast  of  the  Mediterranean  Sea  for 
700  miles,  with  a  breadth  estimated  at  from  100  to  150. 

This  region  is  greatly  distinguished  for  natural  fertility.  With 
the  exception  of  some  arid  and  rocky  plains,  it  consists  of  valleys 
covered  with  rich  pastures,  fitted  for  the  best  kinds  of  European 
grain,  blooming  with  the  orange  and  the  myrtle,  and  producing 
olives,  figs,  and  grapes,  of  peculiar  excellence  and  size.  Yet  the 
indolence  of  the  people,  the  oppression  of  the  government,  the 
want  of  roads  and  interior  communications,  cause  three-fourths  of 
the  country  to  be  left  uncultivated. 

The  trade,  before  the  French  invasion,  was  almost  entirely  in 
the  hands  of  the  Jews,  and  consisted  in  the  export  of  rose-water, 
prepared  skins,  baskets  formed  of  palm-leaves,  &c,  and  of  some 
oil,  wax,  fruits,  and  wool.  The  Algerines  took  in  return  light 
cloths,  glass,  toys,  fire-arms,  and  powder.  The  inhabitants  of  the 
maritime  towns  of  Algiers,  include  French  and  other  Europeans, 
Moors,  Jews,  &c.  The  interior  districts  are  in  the  possession  of 
the  Arabs ;  and  the  mountains  of  the  Atlas  are  inhabited  by  a 
hardy  and  brave  race  of  men,  called  Kabyles,  who  belong  to  the 
Berber  nation. 

The  late  government  of  Algiers  was  a  tumultuary  and  ill-regu- 
lated military  despotism.  The  army,  composed  of  about  15,000 
Turks,  recruited  from  tho  meanest  classes  in  the  ports  of  the 
Levant,  long  domineered  over  the  country.  This  body,  at  short 
intervals,  strangled  the  Dey,  electing  in  his  stead  the  boldest  and 
bravest  of  their  number.  The  corsairs,  or  pirates,  formed  a  kind 
of  separate  republic,  carrying  on  their  barbarous  trade  under  the 
sanction  of  the  prince,  who  received  a  large  share  of  the  slaves 
and  booty. 

These  marauders,  in  1815,  suffered  a  severe  chastisement  from 
the  American  fleet;  and  from  the  English  in  1816.  Again,  after 
they  had  for  some  time  set  the  French  at  defiance,  that  nation,  in 
1830,  fitted  out  a  formidable  expedition,  by  which  Algiers  was  en- 
tirely subjugated.  The  Dey  was  dethroned  and  banished,  and  the 
country  appears  now  likely  to  remain  a  permanent  colony  of 
France.  The  continued  hostility,  however,  of  the  Arabs  and 
Kabyles  of  the  interior,  renders  it  probable  that  but  little  advantage 
will  accrue  to  the  conquerors  for  at  least  a  considerable  period. 
44  *  3 1  *  vol 


522  AFRICA. 

Algiers,  the  capital,  is  built  on  the  declivity  of  an  eminence, 
facing  the  Mediterranean,  and  rising  by  successive  stages  above 
each  other,  with  loftier  hills  behind  it;  it  makes  thus  a  magnificent 
appearance.  On  entering  the  city,  however,  all  this  beauty  dis- 
appears, and  it  is  found  to  be  a  labyrinth  of  steep,  narrow,  and 
dirty  lanes.  There  are  several  splendid  edifices,  particularly  the 
palace  of  the  late  Dey,  and  the  principal  mosques.  The  barracks 
are  also  fine  structures,  adorned  with  fountains  and  marble  col- 
umns ;  and  the  naval  arsenal  is  spacious  and  commodious.  The 
bagnios,  or  the  quarters  formerly  occupied  by  the  slaves,  are 
huge  but  gloomy  and  dirty  edifices.  Algiers  contains  about 
25,000  inhabitants,  of  whom  5000  are  Europeans.  The  French 
expedition  captured  here  10,000,000  dollars  in  money,  besides 
an  ample  supply  of  ships,  artillery,  and  ammunition.  The  fortifi- 
cations towards  the  sea  are  very  strong,  but  on  the  land  side  they 
are  by  no  means  formidable. 

In  the  western  quarter  of  Algeria,  the  chief  place  is  Tlemsen, 
once  the  capital  of  a  powerful  kingdom,  and  still  containing  about 
20,000  inhabitants,  situated  in  a  beautiful  and  finely  watered  dis- 
trict. Mascara,  about  a  mile  in  circuit,  on  the  face  of  a  moun- 
tain which  commands  the  view  of  a  fertile  and  well-cultivated 
plain,  is  an  agreeable  but  ill-built  city.  Oran,  on  the  sea-coast, 
long  a  subject  of  contention  between  the  Moors  and  the  Spaniards, 
remained  in  possession  of  the  latter  people  till  1792.  It  has  a 
good  harbour,  and  a  population  of  10,000  inhabitants. 

In  the  eastern  part  of  this  country  is  Constantina,  supposed  to 
contain  about  15,000  inhabitants.  It  is  boldly  situated  on  a  rock, 
precipitous  on  one  side,  where  it  overhangs  the  small  stream  of 
the  Rummell.  The  surrounding  country  is  fine.  The  site,  how- 
ever, is  distinguished  by  splendid  monuments  of  antiquity ;  and 
the  ground  in  one  place  is  entirely  covered  with  the  remains  of 
broken  walls,  columns,  and  cisterns.  This  city  was  captured  by 
the  French  in  1837.  Bona  was  in  modern  times  the  chief  settle- 
ment of  the  French  African  Company,  which  they  lost  during 
the  revolutionary  war.  It  derives  consequence  from  the  coral 
fishery  carried  on  in  its  vicinity ;  and  the  same  cause  gives  value 
to  La  Cala  and  the  neighbouring  island  of  Tabarca,  which  were 
also  long  in  possession  of  the  French. 


TUNIS. 

Tunis  is  the  most  northern,  and  also  the  smallest,  of  the  Bar- 
bary  states :  it  occupies  that  part  of  Africa  which  approaches 
nearest  to  the  Italian  shores,  being  within  75  miles  of  the  island 


BARBARY.  523 

of  Sicily.  It  extends  from  north  to  south  about  300  miles,  and 
from  east  to  west  150.  A  considerable  part  of  the  country, 
particularly  that  section  of  it  watered  by  the  Mejerda,  or  Bagrada 
river,  is  highly  fertile,  and  profusely  covered  with  all  the  riches 
of  culture  and  vegetation. 

The  situation  of  Tunis,  like  the  ancient  Carthage,  whose  site  it 
occupies,  is  favourable  for  commerce;  and  the  amount  of  trade  in 
olives,  wool,  soap,  and  grain,  is  very  considerable.  The  exporta- 
tion of  the  latter,  absurdly  prohibited  by  the  other  Barbary  pow- 
ers, is  allowed  under  a  license  from  the  Dey :  there  is  also  a 
considerable  traffic  with  Interior  Africa,  for  its  staples  of  gold, 
ivory,  ostrich  feathers,  and  slaves.  Tunis  imports  a  variety  of 
European  goods,  India  stuffs,  and  colonial  produce.  There  are 
some  extensive  manufactures  carried  on  of  velvets,  silk  stuffs,  and 
the  red  caps  generally  worn  in  the  Levant. 

The  people  of  Tunis,  though  composed  essentially  of  the  same 
elements  as  those  of  Algiers,  have  imbibed  a  considerably  greater 
share  of  polish  and  civilization :  and,  from  their  intercourse 
with  foreigners,  are  less  bigoted  than  in  some  other  parts  of 
Barbary. 

The  ruler  of  this  state  was  formerly  a  mere  officer  of  the  Turk- 
ish sultan ;  but  Hamooda,  the  late  Bey,  succeeded  in  emanci- 
pating himself  from  this  subjection  in  the  year  1816.  He  estab- 
lished a  regular  administration  of  justice,  and  extended  equal 
protection  to  all  classes  of  his  subjects,  including  Christians  and 
Jews.  Although  the  government  is  yet,  in  some  respects,  despotic 
and  oppressive,  yet,  on  the  whole,  its  subjects  are  governed  with 
more  mildness  than  those  of  some  of  the  other  Barbary  states. 

The  city  of  Tunis,  only  ten  miles  south-west  from  the  site  of 
Carthage,  and  on  the  same  spacious  bay,  possesses  all  the  advan- 
tages which  raised  that  city  to  such  a  beight  of  prosperity.  It  is 
the  largest  place  in  Barbary,  the  population  being  estimated  at 
100,000.  This  city  has  entirely  renounced  its  piratical  habits, 
and  applied  itself  to  several  branches  of  useful  industry.  Six 
miles  to  the  westward  is  the  Goletta,  the  harbour  and  citadel  of 
Tunis,  and  the  naval  and  commercial  depot  of  the  state.  It  is 
strongly  fortified. 

Of  the  other  cities  of  Tunis,  the  chief  is  Kairwan,  founded  by 
the  Saracens,  and  long  the  capital  of  their  possessions  in  Northern 
Africa.  On  the  north  coast,  Porto  Farini,  near  which  are  the 
ruins  of  Utica,  and  Bizerta,  have  both  some  trade  in  grain  ;  though 
the  fine  harbour  of  the  latter  is  now  so  choked  up  as  to  allow 
only  small  vessels  to  enter.  The  chief  towns  on  the  coast  reach- 
ing southward  from  Tunis,  Monastir  and  Cabes,  are  both  distin- 
guished by  a  flourishing  modern  trade,  which  gives  to  the  one  a 


524  AFRICA. 

population  of  12,000,  and  to  the  other  of  20,000.  Sfax  carries 
on  traffic  on  a  smaller  scale.  Near  El  Jem  are  the  remains  of 
a  magnificent  Roman  amphitheatre. 


TRIPOLI. 

Tripoli  is  the  most  eastern  and  the  least  populous  of  the  Bar- 
bary  states.  It  consists  chiefly  of  extensive  desert  plains,  inter- 
spersed along  the  shore  with  occasional  rich  tracts  of  country. 
This  state  comprises  a  sea-coast  of  800  miles,  and,  including  Barca, 
its  tributary,  is  1300  miles  in  extent. 

The  Gharian  mountains,  situated  at  from  40  to  50  miles  inland 
from  the  capital,  appear  to  be  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  Atlas. 
They  are  inhabited  by  a  race  of  Arabs,  who  have,  from  remote 
antiquity,  lived  in  caves  under  ground  ,*  and  a  populous  mountain 
might  be  passed  over  by  a  traveller,  without  suspecting  that  it  was 
inhabited. 

This  state  is  the  chief  theatre  of  the  intercourse  with  Bornou 
and  Houssa,  the  most  fertile  countries  in  the  interior  of  Africa. 
Fezzan,  the  great  emporium  of  the  caravan  trade,  as  well  as  Barca 
and  Augela,  are  tributary  to  the  Bey ;  and  he  possesses  a  powerful 
influence  over  the  courts  of  Kouka  and  Soccatoo.  This  prince 
has  shown  a  more  enlightened  spirit,  a  greater  desire  to  cultivate 
intercourse  with  the  European  powers,  and  to  introduce  the  im- 
provements of  civilized  life,  than  any  other  in  Barbary.  A  singu- 
lar absence  of  that  jealousy  which  usually  actuates  Mahomedan 
courts,  has  been  displayed  in  the  welcome  given  to  the  British 
expeditions  of  discovery,  and  the  zeal  displayed  in  promoting  their 
objects. 

The  authority  of  the  Turkish  government,  as  in  the  other  Bar- 
bary states,  was  formerly  established  over  Tripoli ;  but  the  Bey 
Hamet  the  Great,  in  the  commencement  of  the  last  century,  re- 
lieved himself  from  the  control  of  its  officers  in  a  manner  truly 
barbarous.  Having  invited  them  to  a  feast,  he  caused  them  all  to 
be  seized  and  strangled  ;  and  the  Turkish  soldiers  being  at  the  same 
time  overpowered  by  his  adherents,  the  sway  of  the  Porte  was  en- 
tirely annihilated.  This  sovereign  was  active  in  promoting  all  the 
manufactures  for  which  Tripoli  was  adapted,  and  inducing  Euro- 
peans to  settle  in  his  territories. 

Tripoli,  the  capital,  is  built  on  a  low  neck  of  land,  extending 
for  some  distance  into  the  sea.  The  district  in  which  it  stands 
forms  only  an  oasis ;  and  he  who  takes  his  departure  from  it  in 
any  direction,  finds  himself  soon  in  the  heart  of  the  desert.     It 


BARBARY. 


Emperor  of  Morocco.  Moorish  Serpent-charmer. 

Among  the  Moors  in  Barbary,  there  are  individuals  who  make  a  boast  of  charming  serpents. 
They  exhibit  themselves  to  the  admiring  multitude,  almost  naked,  in  strange  attitudes  and  con- 
tortions, and  wound  round  by  those  reptiles,  which  they  appear  to  handle  with  impunity. 


Diess  of  the  Moore. 


705 


AFRICA. 


View  of  the  Necropolis,  or  City  of  Tombs,  at  Cyrene,  on  the  coast  of  Barca. 


The  ancient  Cyrene,  now  Grenna,  was  in  early  times  a  Phoenician,  and  afterwards  a  Grecian 
colony,  and  was  long  an  important  city.  Its  ruins  form  the  most  interesting  object  to  be  seen 
on  the  coast  of  Barca.  They  are  situated  on  a  high  table-land,  which  descends  to  the  sea  by 
successive  stages. 

Besides  the  remains  of  splendid  edifices,  and  the  tombs  of  the  Necropolis,  there  are  several 
fine  springs,  whose  waters  flow  among  the  ruins ;  one  of  these,  called  the  Fountain  of  Apollo, 
is  greatly  resorted  to  by  the  Arabs. 


Caravan  overtaken  by  a  Sand-storm  on  the  Great  Desert. 


The  most  dangerous  encounter  experienced  in  traversing  the  Great  Desert  is  that  of  the  snnd 
wind,  when  the  sand  blown  up  by  violent  storms  forms  an  extensive  moving  surfiice,  fills  and 
darkens  the  air,  and  threatens  to  overwhelm  and  suffocate  the  traveller.  The  most  terrible 
effects  are  described  to  huve  taken  place,  whole  caravans  being  reported  to  have  perished  beneath 
moving  clouds  of  sand. 

706 


BARBARY.  525 

thus  cannot  equal  the  other  capitals  of  Barbary ;  and  its  popula- 
tion is  not  supposed  to  exceed  25,000.  Even  this  is  supported 
rather  by  commerce  and  industry,  than  by  the  limited  productions 
of  the  soil.  Tripoli  is  not  a  handsome  city ;  yet  its  palace,  and 
the  generality  of  its  mosques,  have  some  beauty :  and  there  is  a 
triumphal  arch,  and  several  other  interesting  remains  of  antiquity. 
The  fortifications,  consisting  of  the  castle  and  several  batteries, 
possess  some  strength.  The  name  of  Tripoli  is  familiar  to  the 
American  ear  from  having  been  the  scene  of  the  exploits  of  Preble, 
Decatur,  and  other  gallant  spirits,  whose  deeds  shed  a  lustre  over 
the  infant  navy  of  their  country. 

To  the  eastward  of  the  capital,  and  in  its  close  vicinity,  begins 
a  dreary  portion  of  the  Great  Desert  of  Africa  :  about  70  miles, 
however,  to  the  eastward,  the  district  of  Lebda  presents  a  more 
smiling  appearance;  here,  thick  groves  of  olive  and  date  trees  are 
seen  rising  above  the  villages,  and  a  great  space  is  covered  with 
luxuriant  crops  of  grain.  A  similar  country  continues  to  Mesurata, 
to  the  east  of  which  is  also  a  plain  singularly  fertile. 

Mesurata  carries  on  a  manufactory  of  carpets,  and  a  consider- 
able trade  with  Central  Africa.  At  the  termination  of  the  rich 
plain  on  which  it  stands,  commences  the  desolate  expanse  of  the 
Syrtis.  Stretching  around  the  Gulf  of  Sidra,  or  Syrtis,  for  400 
miles,  it  presents  an  almost  tenantless  and  desolate  waste,  except 
occasionally  some  little  valleys  or  detached  spots,  traversed  by  the 
Arabs,  with  their  flocks,  herds,  and  moveable  tents. 

Barca,  the  ancient  Libya,  is  separated  from  the  settled  dis- 
tricts of  Tripoli  by  the  desert  of  the  Syrtis.  It  was,  in  ancient 
times,  noted  for  its  fertility,  but  hardly  any  part  of  its  soil  is  now 
cultivated.  On  this  coast  the  Greeks  founded  Cyrene,  one  of  their 
most  flourishing  colonies.  At  present,  it  is  abandoned  by  all 
civilized  and  industrious  nations ;  and  with  the  exception  of  a  few 
poor  villages,  is  occupied  exclusively  by  the  wandering  Arabs  with 
their  flocks  and  herds. 

Bengazi,  the  ancient  Berenice,  is  now  only  a  miserable  village. 
Every  trace  of  the  ancient  city  appears  to  have  been  buried  under 
the  sands  of  the  surrounding  desert.  The  range  of  valleys,  how- 
ever, east  of  Bengazi,  is  singularly  picturesque,  their  sides  being, 
in  many  places,  steep  and  rocky ;  yet  every  cleft  is  filled  with  a 
brilliant  vegetation. 

The  ruins  of  Cyrene,  which  may  be  said  to  be  a  recent  disco- 
very, form  the  most  striking  object  in  this  remarkable  region. 
There  are  the  remains  of  a  spacious  amphitheatre,  as  well  as  nu- 
merous buildings  and  statues  ;  but  the  most  striking  feature  consists 
in  the  Necropolis,  or  City  of  the  Dead,  consisting  of  groups  of  tombs, 
and  sarcophagi,  rich  in  ornaments  and  inscriptions,  and  presenting 


526  AFRICA. 

the  appearance  of  gay  and  splendid  streets.  Derne  and  Bengazi 
are  the  only  places  in  Barca  at  all  deserving  the  name  of  towns. 
They  are  both  the  residence  of  governors  dependent  upon  the 
pacha  of  Tripoli.  The  former  was  taken  by  General  Eaton, 
an  American,  in  the  year  1805. 


BELED  EL  JERID,  (OR  D'JERID.) 

The  Beled  el  Jerid,  or  Land  of  Dates,  is  a  hot,  sandy  region, 
situated  between  the  Atlas  mountains  and  the  Sahara,  or  Great 
Desert,  and  stretching  from  Morocco  to  Tripoli.  The  precise 
limits  of  the  country  are  not  accurately  defined ;  but  it  is  probably 
about  800  miles  in  length,  and  from  160  to  200  in  width.  This 
territory  is  entirely  in  the  interior ;  and  is  known  to  the  civilized 
world  only  from  the  descriptions  of  the  natives  ;  never  having  been 
explored  by  any  Christian  traveller. 

The  climate  is  extremely  sultry :  its  rigours  are,  however,  some- 
what allayed  by  the  cool  breezes  from  the  Atlas  ;  yet,  during  the 
summer  months,  the  hot  winds  of  the  Sahara  render  the  heat  al- 
most insupportable.  Rain,  as  in  the  desert,  seldom  falls,  but  the 
dews  are  heavy,  and  refresh  to  some  extent  the  thirsty  soil.  Water, 
though  scarce  near  the  surface,  may  be  found  in  nearly  all  parts 
of  this  region,  by  digging  to  the  depth  of  from  20  to  200  feet. 
This  water,  the  Arabs  say,  springs  up  from  the  sea,  under  ground. 

That  part  of  the  country  lying  along  the  edge  of  the  Great 
Desert,  partakes  of  the  same  dry  and  barren  character,  but  is  in- 
terspersed with  occasional  fertile  and  well-cultivated  spots.  In  the 
more  northern  districts,  at  the  base  of  the  mountains,  the  soil  de- 
rives from  the  small  streams  poured  down  from  the  Atlas,  a  degree 
of  fertility  which  enables  the  inhabitants  to  cultivate  to  some  ex- 
tent, barley  and  other  products.  Dates  are  the  great  staple  of  the 
country,  and  abound  in  all  quarters  ;  they  are  of  excellent  quality, 
and  are  raised  in  such  abundance  as  to  form  the  chief  food  of 
the  population.  Camels,  asses,  and  goats,  are  the  principal  ani- 
mals ;  the  first  are  employed  to  a  considerable  extent  by  the  in- 
habitants, in  the  caravan  trade  across  the  Great  Desert. 

The  territory  comprising  the  Beled  el  Jerid  is  not  under  the  con- 
trol of  any  monarch,  or  general  government,  but  is  inhabited  by 
a  number  of  small  Berber  tribes,  who  are  mostly  independent  and 
elect  their  own  chiefs.  The  Marabouts,  or  priests,  possess  among 
these  people  great  influence  and  consideration.  Some  tribes  of 
Arabs  live  interspersed  with  the  Berbers. 

But  little  is  known  of  the  manners,  customs,  or  habits  of  the 
people ;  but  in  these  they  are,  no  doubt,  similar  to  the  same  races 


GREAT    DESERT.  527 

in  other  quarters.  The  towns  are  small,  and  but  few  in  number ; 
they  are  nearly  all  inclosed  by  walls,  and  are  inhabited,  some  by 
two,  and  others  by  three  different  tribes.  They  are,  in  conse- 
quence, divided  by  interior  walls  into  distinct  sections.  Furious 
contests  often  occur  between  the  tribes  in  these  towns,  in  which 
event,  the  gates  connecting  the  different  quarters  are  closed  until 
peace  is  restored.  Eghwaat,  Tuggurt,  Wargelah,  Gardeiah,  and 
Gadames  are  the  principal  towns.* 


GREAT    DESERT. 

The  Great  Desert  constitutes  an  immense  range  of  territory, 
which  occupies  nearly  one-fourth  of  the  surface  of  Africa.  It 
extends  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean  to  the  Red  Sea,  and  from  Barbary 
to  Soudan,  and  is  more  than  3000  miles  in  length,  and  from  800 
to  1000  wide. 

This  wide  expanse  of  country,  the  most  dreary  and  desolate  on 
the  face  of  the  earth,  forms  an  obstacle  to  the  intercourse  of  na- 
tions, greater  than  is  opposed  by  the  widest  oceans.  Yet,  the 
daring  spirit  of  enterprise  has  induced  human  beings  to  occupy 
every  extremity,  or  corner,  in  which  subsistence  could,  by  any 
means,  be  procured ;  and  they  have  formed  routes,  by  which  re- 
gular journeys  may  be  performed  across  this  vast  and  sterile 
region. 

The  term,  Sahara,  is  usually  applied  to  that  part  of  the  Great 
Desert  lying  westward  of  Fezzan ;  to  the  eastward  it  is  called  the 
Libyan,  and  between  the  Nile  and  the  Red  Sea,  the  Nubian  desert. 
The  surface  of  the  Great  Desert  does  not  consist  entirely  of  one 
uniform  plain  of  sand.  In  the  most  level  tracts  it  has  been  blown 
into  heaps,  or  hillocks,  steep  on  one  side,  which  remarkably  in- 
crease both  the  dreary  aspect  of  the  region,  and  the  difficulties 
with  which  the  traveller  has  to  contend.  The  horrible  spectacle 
of  the  bones  of  animals  and  human  beings  which  strew  the  ground, 
and  sometimes  crackle  unexpectedly  beneath  the  tread  of  the  tra- 
veller or  his  camel,  lends,  at  intervals,  additional  terrors  to  the 
scene. 

The  most  remarkable  feature  of  the  Great  African  Desert,  con- 
sists in  the  oases.  These  are  detached  fruitful  spots,  over  which 
springs,  bursting  forth  amid  the  desert,  diffuse  a  partial  verdure 

*The  most  recent  information  respecting  this  country,  has  been  commu- 
nicated by  VV.  B.  Hodgson,  Esq.  who  was  attached  to  the  late  American 
Consulate-General  in  Algiers.  The  towns  inhabited  by  two  or  more  tribes, 
have  been  denominated  by  that  gentleman,  "  Bigential  towns." 

3K  709 


528  AFRICA.      . 

and  fertility.  They  are,  in  some  instances,  embellished  with 
flowering  shrubs  of  peculiar  beauty ;  whole  tracts  being  covered 
with  forests  of  acacia,  from  which  rich  gums  distil,  and  with 
groves  of  the  date  and  lotus,  yielding  sweet  fruits  and  berries. 
The  most  important  of  these  areFezzan,  Tibesty,  Bilmah,  Agdass, 
Twat,  and  Tedeekels. 

Fezzan  is  a  large  oasis,  about  300  miles  long  and  200  broad, 
sometimes  dignified  with  the  title  of  kingdom.  Nature  has  scarcely 
distinguished  it  from  the  surrounding  desert :  it  is  not  irrigated  by 
a  stream  of  any  importance.  The  inhabitants,  however,  raise  up 
the  water,  which  is  always  found  at  a  certain  depth  under  ground, 
and  thus  form  a  number  of  small  oases,  in  which  dates  and  some 
grain  can  be  reared,  and  where  a  few  asses  and  goats,  and  nu- 
merous camels,  are  fed.  It  is  the  inland  trade  that  the  inhabitants 
regard  as  the  chief  source  of  animation  and  wealth. 

Fezzan  lying  due  south  from  Tripoli,  and  about  midway  between 
Egypt  and  Morocco,  is  the  most  central  point  of  communication 
with  Interior  Africa.  Through  these  resources,  the  country  is 
enabled  to  maintain  a  population  of  about  70,000.  The  sultan  is 
tributary  to  the  bey  of  Tripoli. 

Mourzuk  is  the  chief  seat  of  commerce.  It  contains  remains  of 
ancient  stone  edifices ;  but  the  present  structures  are  poorly  built 
of  mud.  Zuela,  Gatrone,  and  Tegerhy,  are  small  towns  on  the 
eastern  frontier.  Traghan,  near  Mourzuk,  has  a  thriving  manu- 
factory of  carpets.  Sockna,  in  the  desert  to  the  north,  on  the  road 
from  Tripoli,  forms  a  caravan  station. 

Tibesty,  a  country  but  little  known,  is  situated  south-west  from 
Fezzan,  and  is  separated  from  it  by  a  desert  of  some  extent.  The 
people,  rude  and  ferocious,  have  been  subjected  to  the  control  of 
that  state.  There  are  a  few  small  villages  in  Tibesty,  of  which 
Arna,  Aboo,  and  Berdai,  are  the  chief.  Caravans  sometimes  pass 
through  this  country  from  Fezzan  to  Bergoo,  or  Waday. 

North-east  from  Fezzan,  is  Auguela,  an  oasis,  known  upwards 
of  2000  years  ago  to  the  Greeks  and  Egyptians,  by  almost  the 
same  name.  The  town  is  a  dirty  ill-built  place,  about  a  mile  in 
circuit.  Siwah,  200  miles  to  the  eastward  of  Auguela,  is  a  small 
but  productive  oasis,  containing  a  town  of  the  same  name,  with 
2000  inhabitants.  It  is  interesting  from  its  vicinity  to  the  ruins 
of  the  temple  of  Jupiter  Amnion,  so  celebrated  in  ancient  times, 
and  to  which  Alexander  the  Great  paid  a  visit. 

El  Khargeh  and  El  Dakhel,  are  fertile  spots  in  the  desert,  lying 
about  200  miles  westward  from  the  Nile :  the  first  contains  a 
small  town  of  about  the  same  size  as  Siwah ;  in  its  vicinity  are 
the  remains  of  magnificent  temples,  consisting  of  immense  masses 


GREAT    DESERT.  529 

of  stone.  Siwah,  El  Khargeh,  and  El  Dahkel,  and  a  few  still 
smaller  oases,  are  under  the  dominion  of  the  Pacha  of  Egypt. 

The  most  interior  part  of  the  desert,  between  Fezzan  and  Cen- 
tral Africa,  is  occupied  chiefly  by  two  native  tribes,  the  Tibboos 
and  Tuaricks,  who  are  both  supposed  to  be  tribes  of  the  ancient 
Berber  race :  the  former  are  found  on  the  caravan  route  to  Bor- 
nou ;  the  latter,  more  westerly,  on  that  of  Kano  and  Kashna. 

The  Tibboos  are  nearly  as  black  as  negroes,  but  with  a  dif- 
ferent physiognomy.  They  subsist  on  the  milk  of  their  camels 
and  the  produce  of  a  few  verdant  spots  scattered  amid  the  desert; 
this  they  seek  to  aid  by  a  little  trade  with  Fezzan,  and  not  unfre- 
quently  by  the  plunder  of  the  caravans.  Bilmah,  the  Tibboo 
capital,  is  a  small,  mean  town,  built  of  earth :  the  other  villages 
are  still  smaller  and  inferior. 

The  Tuaricks  are  the  most  renowned  of  the  desert  tribes ; 
they  are  tall,  erect,  and  handsome,  with  an  imposing  air  of  pride 
and  independence.  Their  skin  is  not  dark,  unless  where  deeply 
embrowned  by  exposure  to  the  sun.  They  hold  in  contempt  all 
who  live  in  houses  and  cultivate  the  ground,  deriving  their  subsist- 
ence from  pasturage  and  plunder  ;  and  they  also  carry  off  and  sell 
as  slaves,  the  inhabitants  of  the  Tibboo  villages  and  other  tribes, 
with  whom  they  are  often  at  war.  They  possess,  it  is  reported, 
the  kingdom  of  Agdass,  whose  capital,  of  the  same  name,  long 
celebrated  as  a  commercial  emporium,  is  supposed  even  to  equal 
Tripoli;  but  our  information  respecting  it  is  very  scanty. 

The  tribes,  occupying  the  western  region  of  the  desert,  appear 
to  be  all  Moors,  or  Arabs,  originally  from  Morocco,  and  who  have 
brought  with  them  their  usual  pastoral,  warlike,  and  predatory 
habits.  They  often  meet  with  a  rich  booty  in  the  vessels  which 
suffer  shipwreck  on  the  dangerous  shores  of  the  Sahara,  and 
which  are  always  plundered  with  the  most  furious  avidity :  the 
only  hope  of  the  wretched  crews  is  to  be  able  to  tempt  their  cap- 
tors by  the  promise  of  a  high  ransom,  to  be  paid  at  Mogadore. 

These  dreary  regions  are  sometimes  animated  by  the  passage 
of  the  great  caravans  between  Morocco  and  Timbuctoo.  At 
Tisheet  and  Taudenry,  are  extensive  mines  of  rock-salt,  a  product 
in  great  demand  over  all  the  populous  regions  of  Central  Africa. 
The  trade  in  this  article  has  given  to  Walet  an  importance  nearly 
equal  to  that  of  Timbuctoo  ;  and  Aroan,  also,  derives  from  it  a  popu- 
lation of  about  3000. 

The  principal  tribes  of  the  Western  Desert  are  the  Mongearts, 

Wadelims,  or  Woled  Deleym,  Woled  Abousseba,  Trasarts,  Brak- 

naks,  &c.     But  the  chief  state  occupied  by  the  Moors,  is  Luda- 

mar,  on  the  frontiers  of  Kaarta.     The  bigotry  and  ferocity  of  the 

45  7n 


AFRICA. 

race  were  strongly  marked  by  the  treatment  which  Mr.  Park  met 
with,  during  his  captivity.  Benowm,  their  capital,  is  merely  a 
large  encampment  of  dirty  tent-shaped  huts. 

In  the  heart  of  the  Great  Desert,  between  Gadames  and  Tim- 
buctoo,  is  the  district  of  Tuat,  inhabited  by  a  mixture  of  Arabs 
and  Tuaricks,  in  no  respect  superior  to  the  rest  of  the  roving  tribes. 
Aghably  and  Ain-el-Saleh,  their  chief  towns,  are  frequented  as 
caravan  stations.  Tedeekels,  to  the  westward  of  the  latter,  is  an 
oasis,  similar  in  character  to  the  others,  and  inhabited  by  people 
of  the  same  description. 

That  part  of  the  Great  Desert  adjoining  Suse,  is,  together  with 
a  portion  of  that  district,  governed  by  Sidi  Ishim,  an  independent 
Moorish  prince,  who  rules  over  a  mixed  population  of  Moors  and 
negroes.  His  country  has  become  a  great  depot  for  the  trade  be- 
tween Morocco  and  Timbuctoo.  The  little  towns  of  Noon,  Akka, 
and  Tatta,  are  the  chief  caravan  stations. 


REGION  OF   THE  NILE. 

The  Region  of  the  Nile  comprehends  the  north-eastern  sec- 
tion of  Africa,  and  includes  the  countries  bordering  on  the  river  Nile, 
and  watered  and  fertilized  by  that  celebrated  stream  and  its  va- 
rious tributaries.  It  comprises  Egypt,  Nubia,  Abyssinia,  Kordofan, 
Darfur,  Fertit,  &c. 

This  division  of  Africa,  for  an  extent  of  more  than  twelve  hun- 
dred miles  southward  from  the  Mediterranean  Sea,  consists  almost 
entirely  of  a  vast  expanse  of  desert  sand,  occasionally  interspersed 
with  arid  and  rocky  mountains,  and  also  with  a  few  rich  and  pro- 
ductive tracts.  Farther  to  the  south,  it  comprises  the  elevated  and 
fertile,  but  barbarous  region  of  Abyssinia ;  and  also  the  unex- 
plored countries,  extending  to  the  westward,  and  traversed  by  the 
lofty  chain  called  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon,  or  the  Donga  Moun- 
tains, which,  though  known  2000  years  ago,  are  yet  as  much  hid- 
den from  the  view  of  civilized  men  as  at  that  distant  perk)d. 

The  chief  feature  of  this  great  region  is  the  memorable  Nile : 
that  renowned  stream,  recalling  the  days  of  Moses  and  of  Pharaoh, 
and  the  earliest  dawnings  of  history,  is  formed  of  two  principal 
branches,  the  Abawi,  or  Blue  River,  and  the  Abiad,  or  White 
River ;  the  former  rises  in  the  high  fertile  regions  of  Abyssinia  ; 
and  the  other  in  the  still  more  elevated  Mountains  of  the  Moon, 
descending  from  whence,  and  each  flowing  for  hundreds  of  miles, 
they  unite  their  waters  in  the  territory  of  Sennaar,  and  form  the 
celebrated  river  of  Egypt. 


EGYPT.  531 

One  hundred  and  eighty  miles  lower  down,  this  stream  receives 
its  last  tributary,  the  Tacazze,  from  the  east,  thence  traversing  a 
series  of  cataracts,  and  flowing  through  Nubia  and  Egypt,  after  a 
course  estimated  altogether  at  2800  miles,  it  pours  its  fertilizing 
flood  into  the  Mediterranean  Sea.  The  principal  channels  are  the 
Rosetta  and  Damietta ;  these  inclose  between  them  a  rich  trian- 
gular tract  of  country  called  the  Delta,  celebrated  from  the  earliest 
times  for  its  fertility  and  the  profusion  of  its  rich  products. 

The  Nile  is  remarkable  for  flowing  the  last  1600  miles  of  its 
course  without  receiving  the  smallest  accession  to  its  stream ;  and 
it  is  said  to  be  larger  and  deeper  1800  miles  from  its  mouth,  than 
within  100  of  that  point.  This  river  was  adored  by  the  ancient 
Egyptians  as  the  tutelary  deity  of  the  country.  When  the  waters 
began  to  rise,  the  inhabitants  celebrated  the  festivals  called  the 
Niloa,  sacrificed  a  black  bull  to  the  divinity,  strewed  lotus  flowers 
on  the  surface  of  the  stream,  and  practised  other  profane  and 
heathen  rites  in  token  of  their  deep  sense  of  its  importance  and 
value. 


EGYPT. 

Egypt,  now  the  most  powerful  and  important  state  in  Africa, 
is  distinguished  for  its  early  progress  in  the  arts  and  sciences,  and 
for  the  extensive  place  it  fills  in  sacred  and  profane  history.  Its 
mighty  pyramids,  splendid  obelisks,  and  the  ruins  of  its  ancient 
cities,  all  attest  its  former  magnificence. 

Egypt  is  encompassed  on  the  north  and  east  by  the  Mediterra- 
nean and  the  Red  Seas,  and  on  the  south  and  west  by  Nubia  and 
the  Great  Desert.  From  the  Mediterranean  to  Assouan  it  is  600 
miles  in  length,  and  from  the  eastern  oases  of  the  desert  to  the 
Red  Sea  300  or  400  miles  in  breadth,  and  contains  an  area  of 
about  200,000  square  miles. 

Of  this  great  region  only  one-fourteenth  or  fifteenth  part  is  ca- 
pable of  being  cultivated.  That  portion  of  Egypt  bordering  on 
the  Mediterranean  Sea  consists  of  a  highly  productive  alluvial 
plain  upwards  of  100  miles  wide  on  the  coast,  and  narrowing  to 
the  southward  almost  to  a  point ;  this  forms  the  renowned  Delta, 
so  noted  in  all  ages  for  its  fertility :  from  thence  to  the  southern 
bounds  of  the  country  a  strip  of  territory,  four  or  five  miles  wide 
along  the  banks  of  the  Nile,  and  inclosed  on  either  side  by  low 
ridges  of  barren  hills,  comprises  all  the  fertile  soil  of  Upper  Egypt ; 
beyond  these  rocky  barriers  the  surface  consists  of  wild,  sandy 
wastes,  the  domain  of  rude  wandering  Arabs.  The  country  is 
divided  into  Upper,  Middle,  and  Lower  Egypt. 


532  AFRICA. 

The  fertility  of  Egypt  depends  almost  entirely  upon  the  floods 
of  the  Nile.  In  the  lower  part  of  its  course  that  river  is  on  a  level 
with  the  districts  which  it  intersects,  and  when  swelled  by  the  au- 
tumnal rains  of  Central  Africa  overflows  them  entirely ;  and  the  fer- 
tilizing mud  deposited  by  the  waters  of  the  river  renders  the  land 
extremely  productive.  The  towns  of  the  Delta  are  all  built  upon 
artificial  mounds,  consisting  of  huge  masses  of  unburnt  brick : 
some  are  very  ancient  ;>  and  their  formation  is  supposed  to  have 
been  among  the  labours  to  which  the  Israelites  were  subjected  by 
their  Egyptian  task-masters.  During  the  overflow,  intercourse  be- 
tween these  places  is  carried  on  by  means  of  boats. 

Lake  Mosris,  so  celebrated  in  ancient  times  as  an  artificial  work, 
is,  at  present,  called  Birket  Karoon,  and  is  almost  dried  up.  The 
district  in  which  it  lies,  50  miles  south-west  from  Cairo,  called  the 
Fayoum,  is  one  of  the  most  fertile  in  Egypt.  Of  the  other  lakes 
the  Natron,  or  Soda,  is  remarkable.  The  lakes  Mareotis,  Bour- 
los,  and  Menzaleh,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Nile,  are  more  properly 
inlets  of  the  sea. 

Canals  are  numerous  in  Egypt,  some  of  which  are  the  remains 
of  similar  works  constructed  more  than  2000  years  ago.  The 
greater  number  are  used  merely  for  the  purpose  of  irrigating  the 
soil,  and  others  for  navigation.  The  most  important  of  the  latter, 
are  Joseph's  canal,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Nile,  100  miles  long 
and  from  50  to  300  feet  broad ;  the  Abou  Meneggy  canal,  on  the 
east  side,  also  about  100  miles  in  length.  The  canal  of  Cleopa- 
tra, now  the  Mahmoudie,  was,  some  years  since,  re-opened  by 
Mahomed  Ali :  it  is  60  miles  long,  90  feet  broad,  and  18  feet 
deep.  From  150,000  to  250,000  men  were  employed  on  this 
work  for  twelve  months,  during  which  period  so  little  regard  was 
paid  to  their  health  and  comfort,  that  30,000  of  them  are  said  to 
have  perished. 

This  canal  connects  Alexandria  and  Rahmanieh  on  the  Nile. 
The  canals  of  Egypt,  passing  through  a  perfectly  level  country, 
are  constructed  without  locks. 

The  climate  is  in  general  hot,  and  is  moderate  in  Lower  Egypt 
only.  The  great  heat,  however,  produces  the  most  exuberant  ve- 
getation. The  Khamsin,  (a  hot,  dry  wind  which  blows  from  the 
desert,)  the  plague,  and  ophthalmia,  are  the  peculiar  torments  of 
Egypt.  It  has  but  two  seasons,  spring  and  summer ;  the  latter 
lasts  from  April  to  November.  During  this  period  the  sky  is  al- 
ways clear,  and  the  weather  hot.  In  the  spring  the  nights  are 
cool  and  refreshing. 

Formerly,  it  seldom  ever  rained  in  Egypt,  but  at  Alexandria  it 
now  rains  for  30  or  40  days,  and  at  Cairo  there  are  from  fifteen 
to  twenty  rainy  days  every  winter.     It  is  supposed  that  this  re- 


EGYPT. 


'J* 

Papyrus  Plant.  Egyptian  Arum.  Carthamus  Tinctorius. 

The  Papyrus  is  the  plant  from  the  fibres  of  which  the  ancients  made  their  paper.  It  grows 
eight  or  ten  feet  high ;  and  is  found  in  Egypt,  Syria,  and  Abyssinia.  Ropes,  matting,  and 
baskets,  are  at  present  made  of  its  stems. 

The  Egyptian  Arum,  or  Arrow  Root,  is  used  for  the  same  purposes  as  the  West  Indian  pro- 
duction of  the  same  name.  The  Carthamus  Tinctorius,  or  Safflower,  bears  large  orange- 
coloured  flowers,  that  are  much  used  in  dyeing  and  colouring. 


Nymphsea  Lotus,  or  Sacred  Lotu9.  Castor-oil  Plant. 

The  Sacred  Lotus  was  consecrated  by  the  ancient  Egyptians  to  Isis  and  Osiris;  and  wor- 
shipped by  them  as  an  emblem  of  the  creation  of  the  world  from  water.  The  Castor-oil  Plant 
is  extensively  cultivated  in  Egypt,  and  large  quantities  of  the  oil  are  produced. 


Zyzyphus  Lotos,  Barbary.  Kuara  Tree,  Abyssinia. 

The  Zyzyphus  Lotos  bears  a  berry  that,  when  ripe,  tasteB  like  gingerbread.  One  of  the  fableB 
of  the  ancients  was,  that  this  fruit  had  the  power  of  making  those  who  fed  on  it  forget  their 
native  country.  , 

The  bean  of  the  Kuara  Tree  has  been  used  from  time  immemorial  tn  Africa  for  weighing  gold. 
The  term  carat,  employed  with  us  to  denote  the  fineness  of  that  metal,  and  also  the  weight  of 
diamonds,  is  supposed  to  have  been  derived  from  it.  715 


AFRICA 


If 


View  of  one  of  the  principal  Squares  of  Cairo. 
i 


Cleopatra's  Needle.    Pompey's  Pillar.  Head  of  the  Sphinx. 

Cleopatra's  Needles  and  Pompey's  Pillar,  at  Alexandria,  are  remains  of  the  ancient  city.  The 
first  consist  of  two  Egyptian  obelisks,  each  formed  of  a  single  6tone,  and  about  sixty  feet  high  ; 
they  are  nearly  all  covered  with  Hieroglyphics — only  one  of  these  is  standing,  the  other  is  lying 
on  the  ground.  Pompey's  Pillar  is  a  Roman  column,  ninety-five  feet  in  height.  The  pedestal, 
the  shaft,  and  the  capital,  consist  each  of  a  mass  of  the  finest  granite.  It  is  supposed  to  have 
been  erected  by  the  Emperor  Dioclesian. 

The  Sphinx  is  a  gigantic  image,  representing  the  body  of  a  lion  with  a  human  head.  It 
stands  about  300  feet  from  the  base  of  Cephrenes,  the  second  pyramid.  It  had  long  been  buried 
to  the  neck,  but  the  sand  was  sometime  since  cleared  away,  and  the  whole  found  to  be  about  125 
feet  long,  and  near  CO  high.  The  body  is  monolithic,  or  formed  of  a  single  stone,  but  the  pawst 
which  arc  thrown  out  fifty  feet  in  front,  are  constructed  of  masonry.    The  body  of  the  Sphinx 

is  again  covered  with  sand. 

716 


EGYPT.  533 

markable  change  is  owing  to  the  immense  plantations  of  the  Pa- 
cha, twenty  millions  of  trees  having  been  planted  below  Cairo. 
The  contrary  effect  has  been  produced  in  Upper  Egypt  by  the  de- 
struction of  the  trees  there. 

The  chief  products  of  this  country  are  Indian-corn,  rice,  wheat, 
barley,  and  millet ;  also  flax,  hemp,  indigo,  cotton,  &c:  palm,  and 
date  groves,  with  the  olive,  apricot,  citron,  lemon,  and  acacia  or 
gum-arabic,  and  various  other  useful  and  ornamental  trees,  cover 
the  country.  Roses  are  raised  in  large  quantities,  and  rose-water 
forms  an  important  article  of  export.  Marble,  alabaster,  porphy- 
ry, jasper,  granite,  salt,  natron,  nitre,  alum,  &c,  abound. 

The  inhabitants  devote  themselves  to  agriculture,  the  raising  of 
bees  and  poultry,  the  preparation  of  sal-ammoniac,  the  manufac- 
turing of  leather,  flax,  hemp,  silk  and  cotton,  carpets,  glass,  and 
potters'-ware.  Constantinople  is  supplied  with  grain  from  Egypt, 
which,  when  a  Roman  province,  was  called  the  granary  of  Rome. 
The  coasting-trade  is  considerable,  and  much  inland  traffic  is  car- 
ried on,  chiefly  with  Syria,  Arabia,  and  Western  Africa.  Cotton, 
indigo,  sugar,  rice,  natron,  nitre,  soda,  wool,  hides,  and  many  other 
articles,  are  exported  to  various  quarters. 

Oxen  of  a  large  breed,  and  tame  buffaloes,  are  used  in  agricul- 
ture ;  the  animals  of  burden  are  camels,  horses,  and  asses ;  goats 
are  numerous,  and  the  ichneumon,  the  active  enemy  of  serpents 
and  lizards  of  all  kinds,  and  also  the  destroyer  of  the  eggs  of  the 
crocodile,  is  domesticated  and  kept,  as  cats  are  with  us,  by  the 
inhabitants.  Crocodiles  and  hippopotami  abound  in  the  Nile  in 
Upper  Egypt ,  and  lions,  hyenas,  and  antelopes,  in  the  adjacent 
deserts. 

Chickens  are  hatched  artificially  in  ovens  constructed  for  the 
purpose ;  the  birds,  however,  are  not  so  robust  as  those  produced 
in  the  natural  way.  Vast  numbers  of  bees  are  also  raised,  and 
on  a  failure  of  the  verdure  in  one  spot  the  hives  are  placed  in  boats 
belonging  to  persons  who  devote  themselves  to  that  employment, 
and  conveyed  to  places  up  or  down  the  Nile  where  flowers  and 
vegetation  abound :  here  the  industrious  little  insects  collect  their 
rich  store  from  the  adjacent  luxuriant  fields ;  when  the  hives  are 
filled,  they  are,  on  the  payment  of  a  small  compensation,  returned 
to  their  owners. 

The  people  of  Egypt  consist  of  Copts,  the  descendants  of  the 
ancient  Egyptians,  who  are  Christians  of  one  of  the  branches  of 
the  Greek  Church ;  the  Arabs,  the  most  numerous  race,  divided 
into  Fellahs  or  peasants ;  and  Bedouins,  the  wandering  tribes 
of  the  desert.  The  Turks,  though  the  ruling  people,  have  never 
been  numerous  in  this  country.  The  Mamelukes,  that  remark- 
able  race  of  military  slaves,  who  were  long  the  masters  and 

45  #  717 


534  AFRICA. 

plunderers  of  Egypt,  have  been  entirely  exterminated.  Besides 
these,  there  are  Jews,  Greeks,  Armenians,  and  some  Europeans 
in  the  service  of  the  government. 

The  prevailing  language  is  the  Arabic,  and  the  predominant  re- 
ligion is  that  of  Mahomed,  of  which  the  Pacha  has  declared  him- 
self the  head  and  director ;  he  has  curtailed  the  power  of  the 
priests,  and  has  also  done  much  to  lessen  the  prejudices  of  the 
Mussulmans  against  Christians. 

The  murder  of  the  Mameluke  chiefs,  in  1811,  subjected  Egypt 
to  the  sway  of  Mohamed  Ali,  who  had  received  from  the  Porte, 
five  years  before,  the  appointment  of  pacha,'  but  who,  profiting  by 
the  distractions  of  the  Ottoman  empire,  has  established  a  power 
wholly  independent.  He  also  acquired  Syria,  Cyprus,  and  Candia, 
extended  his  dominion  southward  along  the  Nile  as  far  as  Sen- 
naar  and  Kordofan ;  and  in  Arabia,  has  added  to  his  domain  the 
sacred  territory  of  Mecca,  as  well  as  Medina  and  Yemen.  In 
1840,  Mahomed  Ali  was  compelled  by  the  united  arms  of  Great 
Britain,  Russia,  Austria  and  Prussia,  to  relinquish  Syria  to  the 
Sultan  ;  he  was,  however,  confirmed  in  the  government  of  Egypt, 
and  his  other  possessions. 

His  territories  extend,  therefore,  in  Africa,  from  Abyssinia  to 
the  Mediterranean  Sea,  1400  miles,  and  in  Asia  from  the  strait  of 
Babelmandel  to  the  confines  of  Syria,  almost  1600  miles  in  length, 
and  in  breadth  from  the  oases  of  the  Libyan  desert  to  the  inte- 
rior regions  of  Arabia.  This  new  empire,  though  less  important 
since  the  retrocession  of  Syria,  is  still  more  extensive  than  that 
of  the  Mameluke  Sultans,  the  Ptolemies,  or  the  Pharaohs,  and 
contains  6,000,000  inhabitants,  of  which  Egypt  itself  comprises 
from  2,000,000  to  3,000,000. 

The  army  of  the  Pacha  is  powerful  and  efficient ;  it  amounts 
to  140,000  men,  and  has  been  organized  and  disciplined  in  the 
European  manner  by  French  officers.  The  navy  consists  of  nine 
ships  of  the  line,  six  frigates,  eleven  smaller  vessels,  and  three 
steam-ships:  it  is  manned  by  16,000  sailors. 

At  Cairo  there  is  a  military  college  with  1400,  and  at  Alexan- 
dria a  marine  academy  with  860  pupils ;  these  are  mostly  Arabs, 
and  they  are  instructed  by  Europeans.  The  students  in  the  first 
are  destined  for  officers  in  the  army,  and  the  others  for  the  navy. 
A  cannon-foundry  and  a  manufactory  of  arms  and  gunpowder 
have  been  also  established  at  Cairo. 

Mahomed  Ali  is  particularly  attentive  to  the  public  security  :  he 
takes,  therefore,  all  Europeans  under  his  immediate  protection, 
and  allows  no  one  to  be  molested  on  account  of  his  religion : 
strangers,  also,  may  travel  from  one  end  of  Egypt  to  the  other, 
with  perfect  safety.  He  has  done  much  for  the  commerce  and  in- 
dustry as  well  as  civilization  of  Egypt,  and  has  established  a  bet- 


EGYPT. 


Distant  View  of  the  Pyramids 
The  Pyramids  stand  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Nile,  above  Cairo.    They  are  about  forty  in 
number,  arranged  in  five  groups,  and  are  scattered  along  the  bank  of  the  river  for  a  distance 
of  sixty  miles. 


The  Great  Pyramid. 


Entrance  to  the  Second  Pyramid. 
Cephrenes,  or  the  second  pyramid,  was  first  opened  by  Mr.  Belzoni,  in  the  year  1818.    At  tho 
end  of  a  long  passage,  he  found  a  chamber  forty-six  feet  by  sixteen,  and  twenty-four  feet  high, 
in  which  was  a  sarcophagus,  or  stone  coffin.    It  contained  a  small  quantity  of  bones,  found  to 
be  those  of  the  cow,  one  of  the  chief  objocts  of  ancient  Egyptian  worship. 


AFRICA. 


Ruins  of  Antinoe,  situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Nile,  170  miles  above  Cairo. 


The  Ruins  of  Antinoe  extend  about  a  mile  in  every  direction.  They  are  the  remains  of  a 
city  built  in  the  Greek  style,  by  the  Emperor  Adrian,  with  the  design  of  uniting  the  elegance 
of  classic  architecture  with  the  colossal  grandeur  of  the  Egyptian.  The  theatre,  the  hippodrome, 
the  principal  street,  a  triumphal  column,  a  triumphal  arch,  and  a  great  gate,  may  still  be  traced. 


Ruins  of  Anteopolis,  260  miles  above  Cairo. 

At  Gau  el  Kebir,  situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Nile,  some  massive  ruins  are  to  be  found, 
1'nc  remains  of  the  ancient  city  of  Anteopolis.  Traces  of  a  temple  230  feet  by  150,  are  still 
existing  ;  the  columns  have  their  capitals  formed  of  representations  of  the  leaves  of  the  date 
palm,  and,  being  surrounded  with  groups  of  those  trees,  of  which  they  present  a  faithful  copy, 
produce  an  interesting  effect. 


Portico  of  the  Temple  at  Esneh,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Nile,  310  miles  above  Cairo. 

Esnch  is  a  considerable  modern  town.  It  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  Eatopolis;  and 
contains  an  Egyptian  temple,  the  portico  of  which  is  remarkable  for  its  beauty.  The  zodiac 
with  which  its  cupola  is  adorned,  forms  one  of  the  most  remarkable  ornaments  of  ancient 
ncience,  and  has  given  rise  to  much  controversy. 

720 


EGYPT.  535 

ter  system  of  law  and  order  than  that  unfortunate  country  has 
experienced  since  the  days  of  its  most  potent  monarchs. 

The  Pacha  encourages  every  species  of  industry,  and  is  study- 
ing to  introduce  the  arts,  the  sciences,  and  improvements  of  Europe. 
He  is,  however,  the  absolute  lord  of  the  soil,  and  the  productions  of 
the  country,  and  is  also  the  principal  merchant ;  and  no  one  can 
deal  with  foreigners  without  his  consent.  His  revenue  is  about 
18,000,000  dollars,  derived  from  taxes  of  various  kinds,  duties  on 
imports,  and  the  sale  of  cotton,  indigo,  sugar,  rice,  &c,  which  he 
monopolizes,  purchasing  those  articles  at  a  low  rate  from  his  sub- 
jects, and  selling  them  at  a  great  advance  to  foreigners. 

The  government  of  Mahomed  Ali  is  thus  one  of  the  most  des- 
potic in  existence ;  and,  notwithstanding  the  advances  that  have 
been  made  towards  civilization,  the  mass  of  the  people  are  greatly 
oppressed  by  the  heavy  exactions  and  severe  duties  required  of 
them.  When  recruits  are  wanted  for  the  public  service,  the  vil- 
lages are  often  surrounded  by  soldiers  ;  the  most  able-bodied  of  the 
men  are  dragged  from  their  families,  loaded  with  chains  on  the 
least  reluctance  being  expressed,  and  sent  to  the  army  or  navy. 
Still,  Egypt,  depressed  and  degraded  under  the  government  of  the 
Mamelukes  and  the  Turks,  has  been  raised  by  the  energetic  ad- 
ministration of  its  present  ruler  to  a  degree  of  distinction  that  the 
country  has  not  enjoyed  for  ages ;  and,  though  by  means  in  some 
instances  not  the  most  creditable,  yet  he  has  founded  an  empire  of 
such  importance,  as  to  excite  the  attention  and  command  the  re- 
spect of  the  most  powerful  European  states. 

Egypt  abounds  in  some  of  the  most  remarkable  antiquities  in 
the  world :  of  these,  the  pyramids  are,  perhaps,  the  most  astonish- 
ing monuments  of  human  labour  in  existence.  The  two  largest  are 
those  of  Cheops  and  Cephrenes;  the  former  is  461  feet  high,  with 
a  square  base  of  693  feet  in  extent,  and  occupying  about  eleven 
acres  of  ground.  This  pyramid  can  be  ascended  in  about  twenty 
minutes,  and  consists  of  206  steps  of  stone,  from  one  to  four  feet 
in  height,  each  tier  retiring  from  the  one  below,  so  as  to  form  a 
series  of  steps  from  the  bottom  to  the  top. 

At  the  foot  of  Cephrenes  is  the  celebrated  Sphinx,  an  imaginary 
monster,  with  a  lion's  body  and  a  human  head,  cut  out  of  the  solid 
rock ;  it  is  in  a  lying  posture ;  the  head  and  neck  are  about  30 
feet  high,  and  the  body,  though  covered  with  sand,  has  been  found 
to  be  125  feet  long.  There  are,  also,  in  Egypt,  extensive  cata- 
combs existing  in  various  places,  from  which  mummies,  or  em- 
balmed bodies,  are  obtained.  Some  of  these  were  deposited  3000 
or  4000  years  ago. 

Thebes,  in  Upper  Egypt,  is  rendered  famous  by  the  description 
of  the  ancient  writers,  as  the  city  of  an  hundred  gates,  from  each 

3Ii  721 


536  AFRICA. 

of  which  a  thousand  warriors  went  forth  equipped  for  battle.  This 
place,  when  Greece  was  just  emerging  from  barbarism,  and  before 
Rome  was  built,  was  the  most  magnificent  city  in  the  world.  The 
splendid  description  given  of  it  by  the  Greek  writers  were  long 
considered  fabulous,  but  the  observations  of  modern  travellers 
prove  their  accounts  to  have  fallen  short  of  the  reality. 

The  ancient  city  was  23  miles  in  circuit,  and  nearly  all  of  this 
space  is  now  filled  with  its  ruins.  The  banks  of  the  Nile  for  an 
extent  of  between  seven  and  eight  miles,  are  covered  with  magni- 
ficent portals,  obelisks  decorated  with  sculpture,  forests  of  columns, 
and  long  avenues  of  colossal  statues.  One  of  the  temples  is  a 
mile  and  a  half  in  circumference.  It  has  12  principal  entrances  ; 
the  body  of  the  temple  consists  of  a  prodigious  hall,  or  portico ; 
the  roof  is  supported  by  134  columns.  Four  beautiful  obelisks 
mark  the  entrance  to  the  shrine,  a  place  of  sacrifice,  which  con- 
tains three  apartments  built  entirely  of  granite. 

The  temple  of  Luxor  probably  surpasses  in  beauty  and  splen- 
dour all  the  other  ruins  of  Egypt.  In  front,  there  were,  until 
lately,  two  splendid  obelisks  of  rose-coloured  marble,  100  feet 
high :  one  of  these  has  been  conveyed  to  Paris,  and  now  stands 
in  that  city.  But  the  objects  which  most  attract  attention  are  the 
sculptures,  which  cover  the  whole  of  the  northern  front.  They 
contain,  on  a  great  scale,  a  representation  of  a  victory  gained  by 
one  of  the  ancient  kings  of  Egypt  over  his  Asiatic  enemies.  The 
number  of  human  figures  introduced  amounts  to  1500 ;  500  on 
foot,  and  1000  in  chariots.  Such  are  some  of  the  remains  of  a 
city  which  perished  before  the  records  of  authentic  history  begin. 

Cairo,  or  Grand  Cairo,  the  capital  of  Egypt,  is  situated  on  the 
east  bank  of  the  Nile,  1 30  miles  from  the  sea :  it  comprises  Old 
Cairo,  New  Cairo,  and  Boulac ;  it  is  the  largest  and  most  popu- 
lous city  in  Africa ;  and  throughout  that  region  and  Arabia,  Cairo 
is  considered  the  queen  of  cities,  the  city  without  a  rival :  its  splen- 
dour forms  one  of  the  chief  themes  of  eastern  romance.  Euro- 
peans and  Americans  find  little,  however,  in  its  present  aspect 
corresponding  to  the  ideas  produced  by  oriental  description. 

The  streets  are  mere  winding  alleys,  unpaved,  and  filled  with 
clouds  of  dust,  caused  by  the  concourse  of  men,  camels,  and  asses, 
which  pass  through  them.  The  houses  are  built  of  stone  and  brick, 
with  terraces  and  flat  roofs,  and  the  windows  are  often  glazed  with 
coloured  glass.  There  is  a  prodigious  number  of  gardens  in  the 
city.  The  mosques  are  covered  with  Arabesque  ornaments,  and 
adorned  with  handsome  minarets.  The  waters  of  the  Nile  are 
received  by  canals  into  a  great  number  of  docks,  or  artificial 
ponds,  in  different  parts  of  the  city.  Cairo  has  a  flourishing  trade 
with  the  interior,  by  caravans.     Population,  300,000. 


EGYPT. 


Portico  of  the  Temple  at  Dendera. 


Part  of  a  Wall  at  Dendera,  covered  with  the  Hieroglyphical  Sculptures  of  the  ancient  Egyptians. 


Interior  of  the  Temple  at  Dendera. 

Dendera,  the  ancient  Tentyra,  is  240  miles  above  Cairo,  on  the  we9t  side  of  the  Nile,  and 
about  a  quarter  of  an  hour's  walk  from  the  river.  The  ruins  found  here  cover  a  space  a  mile 
long  by  half  a  mile  wide.  The  most  entire  edifice  remaining  is  an  Egyptian  temple,  265  feet 
by  1-10,  and  60  feet  high  in  front.  It  is  remarkable  for  the  vast  amount  and  variety  of  the 
hieroglyphical  sculptures  with  which  its  walls  are  covered,  both  outside  and  in.  A  part  of  the 
ceiling  of  the  interior,  where  the  sculptures  are  supposed  to  represent  the  twelve  signs  of  the 
zodiac,  has  been  cut  out  and  conveyed  to  Paris. 

723 


AFRICA. 


Ruins  of  Karnac,  at  Thebes. 


Principal  Hall  at  Karnac. 


£38$?  ASSESS 
Ruins  of  the  Temple  of  Luxor,  at  Thebes. 


724 


EGYPT.  537 

This  city  is  beginning  to  imbibe  some  of  the  elements  of  Chris- 
tian civilization.  A  scientific  society  and  various  schools  on  the 
European  plan  have  been  founded,  and  printing-presses  have  been 
established  by  the  government,  at  which  a  number  of  Arabic  trans- 
lations, from  the  most  celebrated  French  and  English  works,  have 
been  printed.  Hotels  are  kept  in  Cairo  on  the  plan  of  those  in 
Paris,  though  in  a  somewhat  inferior  style. 

Alexandria,  on  the  Mediterranean  Sea,  a  few  miles  to  the  west- 
ward of  the  Rosetta  mouth  of  the  Nile,  is  one  of  the  most  re- 
nowned cities  in  the  world.  After  being  for  ages  in  a  state  of 
decay,  it  is  now  lifting  its  head  from  the  dust.  The  Pacha  seems 
determined  to  raise  it  to  importance;  and  it  may  perhaps  become 
again  a  vast  emporium.  It  is  now  the  chief  sea-port  and  naval 
station  of  Egypt,  and  is  connected  with  the  Nile  by  the  Mahmou- 
dia  canal ;  its  commerce,  which  has  of  late  years  greatly  increased, 
is  now  considerable.  Vessels  of  nearly  every  European  nation 
are  to  be  found  in  its  harbour ;  and  steam-boats  run  to  all  the  prin- 
cipal sea-ports  in  the  Mediterranean.  The  population,  a  few  years 
ago  estimated  at  20,000,  is  now  supposed  to  amount  to  nearly 
three  times  that  number. 

This  city  was  founded  by  Alexander  the  Great,  and  soon  rose 
to  wealth  and  distinction.  It  was  the  capital  of  the  Ptolemies, 
and  for  science  and  literature  was  second  only  to  Rome.  It  con- 
tained at  one  time  600,000  inhabitants.  After  its  capture  by  the 
Saracens,  it  began  to  decline;  and  the  discovery  of  the  passage  to 
India  by  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  destroyed  its  commercial  im- 
portance. At  present  it  consists  of  narrow,  crooked,  and  dirty 
streets,  with  lofty  buildings. 

An  immense  accumulation  of  ruins,  mostly  buried  in  the  sand, 
Pompey's  pillar,  Cleopatra's  needles,  the  cisterns,  catacombs,  and 
columns,  some  entire  and  some  broken,  scattered  here  and  there, 
are  the  remains  of  the  ancient  Alexandria :  these,  however,  are 
not  of  Egyptian,  but  of  Greek,  or  Roman  origin  ;  and,  in  compari- 
son with  the  pyramids,  are  quite  modern. 

Rosetta  stands  on  the  west  branch  of  the  Nile,  four  miles  from 
its  mouth,  and  is  completely  environed  by  the  blooming  groves  and 
rich  gardens  of  the  Delta.  It  is  built  in  a  better  style  than  most 
of  the  Egyptian  cities,  and  has  been  long  a  place  of  considerable 
importance ;  but  is  now  on  the  decline,  much  of  its  trade  having 
been  transferred  to  Alexandria.     Population,  15,000. 

Damietta  is  built  on  the  eastern  branch  of  the  Nile,  10  miles 
from  the  sea.  The  appearance  of  the  town  is  beautifully  pictu- 
resque, and  the  country  in  the  neighbourhood  is  the  most  fertile 
and  best  cultivated  in  Egypt.  Like  Rosetta,  this  city  is  also  of  less 
importance  than  formerly.     Population,  25,000. 

3L*  125 


538  AFRICA. 

Tanta,  in  the  centre  of  the  Delta,  is  distinguished  by  a  splendid 
mosque,  built  in  honour  of  a  famous  Mahomedan  saint,  to  which 
near  150,000  pilgrims  annually  resort  from  various  countries, 
some  even  from  Darfur.  Minieh,  Achmounien,  and  Manfalout, 
are  all  places  of  some  note,  above  Cairo.  Siout,  160  miles  above 
this  city,  has  20,000  inhabitants.  It  lies  on  the  west  side  of  the 
Nile,  two  miles  from  the  river,  and  is  the  chief  point  from  which 
the  caravans  take  their  departure  to  Nubia  and  Interior  Africa. 
Akhmin,  above  Siout,  has  a  population  of  10,000,  and  Girge, 
Kenneh,  and  Esneh,  are  among  the  chief  towns  in  Upper  Egypt: 
the  latter  has  some  manufactures  of  cotton  shawls,  and  pottery. 
Assouan,  the  ancient  Syene,  the  most  southern  town  of  Egypt, 
has  some  trade  in  dates.  Three  miles  above  this  place  is  the  first 
cataract  of  the  Nile,  described  by  the  ancient  writers  as  a  pro- 
digious fall  \  but  which  is  now  found  to  be  nothing  more  than  a 
turbulent  rapid. 

Suez,  at  the  head  of  the  Red  Sea,  is  surrounded  by  a  sandy 
desert.  It  has  a  large  trade  with  Arabia  by  caravans,  and  also 
by  sea  ;  and  steam-ships  often  ply  between  this  place  and  Bombay. 
Population,  5000.  Cosseir  is  a  sea-port  on  the  Red  Sea,  and  has 
some  trade  in  grain.     The  country  around  it  is  a  desert. 


NUBIA. 

Nubia  is  an  extensive  region  lying  south  of  Egypt,  and  ex- 
tending to  the  confines  of  Abyssinia.  It  is  bounded  on  the  east 
and  west  by  the  Red  Sea  and  the  Great  Desert :  nearly  the  whole 
country  is  composed  of  rocky  and  sandy  deserts.  The  atmo- 
sphere is  dry,  the  summer  hot,  the  climate  healthy,  and  the  plague 
unknown :  the  whole  region,  together  with  Kordofan,  adjoining  it 
on  the  south-west,  is  now  subject  to  Mohamed  Ali,  the  Pacha  of 
Egypt,  having  been  conquered  by  him  a  few  years  since.  Length, 
800  miles;  breadth,  from  350  to  500.  Area,  about  320,000 
square  miles. 

The  little  fertility  which  Nubia  possesses  is  artificial,  being  pro- 
duced by  raising  the  water  of  the  Nile,  by  means  of  wheels  worked 
with  oxen,  to  the  level  of  the  highest  banks :  in  this  way  a  strip 
of  land  of  from  one-eighth  of  a  mile  to  half  a  mile  in  breadth  is 
rendered  productive,  on  which  is  cultivated  dhourra,  barley,  cotton, 
tobacco  and  indigo. 

The  territory  of  Sennaar,  bordering  on  Abyssinia,  does  not 
altogether  partake  of  the  barrenness  so  general  in  the  greater  part 
of  Nubia ;  some  portions  of  it  are  comparatively  fertile,  being 
watered  by  the  tropical  rains  which  are  here  considerable,  though 
not  so  violent  as  in  regions  immediately  under  the  equator. 


NUBIA. 


Memnonlan  Statues,  at  Thebes,  called  Jama  and  Chama  by  the  natives. 
The  Memnonian  Statues  at  Thebes,  now  much  mutilated,  are  fifty-two  feet  high,  and  are 
each  composed  of  a  single  block  of  granite.  One  of  them  appears  from  inscriptions  to  have 
been  the  vocal  statue  of  Memnon,  celebrated  by  the  ancients  as  emitting  a  musical  sound  at 
sunrise,  or  when  struck,  at  particular  times  of  the  day.  No  modern  visiter,  however,  has  been 
able  to  elicit  more  than  the  usual  sound  made  by  percussion  upon  granite ;  and  there  seems  no 
doubt  that  the  musical  tones  were  produced  by  some  contrivance  of  the  Egyptian  priests. 


Specimen  of  the  hieroglyphical  painted  sculptures,  found  on  the  walls  of  the  ancient 
Egyptian  tombs.  This  is  supposed  to  represent  Osiris,  the  chief  deity  of  Egypt,  judging  the 
dead. 


Modern  Egyptian  Bath. 


727 


AFRICA. 


Cataracts  of  the  Nile,  Upper  Egypt. 
The  Cataracts  of  the  Nile  do  not  correspond,  at  the  present  day,  with  the  descriptions  given 
of  them  by  the  classic  writers.    They  are  mere  rapids,  up  and  down  which  the  Arabs  ascend 
and  descend  with  their  boats.    It  is  evident  that  a  great  change  has  taken  place  in  the  condition 
of  the  river  here,  since  the  days  of  the  Pharaohs  and  tho  Ptolemies. 


\\\      ! 


Philae,  four  mileB  above  the  Cataracts  of  the  Nile,  Upper  Egypt. 
The  island  of  Philae,  now  El  Heiff,  exhibits  a  confusion  of  grand  and  beautiful  monuments, 
rivalling  those  left  by  the  greatest  cities  of  Egypt.  There  are  eight  temples,  built  apparently 
at  different  times,  and  in  different  styles  of  architecture.  The  largest  of  these  is  supposed  to 
have  been  that  consecrated  to  Osiris.  The  most  solemn  oath  of  the  ancient  Egyptians  was  by 
Osiris  in  Philae. 

723 


NUBIA.  539 

Besides  the  usual  domestic  animals  of  these  countries,  the  giraffe 
or  camelopard,  antelopes  of  various  kinds,  foxes  and  wild  dogs, 
abound  ;  and  an  animal  is  said  by  the  natives  to  reside  in  the 
deserts  rather  smaller  but  similar  in  appearance  to  the  horse,  with 
one  long  straight  horn  growing  from  its  forehead. 

The  inhabitants  of  Nubia  have  scarcely  any  manufactures  ex- 
cept some  coarse  cotton  and  woollen  cloths  and  mats ;  indigo  is 
made  from  the  plant  which  furnishes  that  article.  The  latter  is 
monopolized  by  the  pacha,  who  appropriates,  as  in  Egypt,  the 
whole  produce  and  commerce  of  the  country.  The  trade  from  the 
interior,  which  passes  through  Nubia  to  Egypt,  consists  mostly  of 
slaves,  gold,  and  ivory ;  that  from  Egypt  and  Arabia,  European 
goods,  arms,  &c. 

The  people  of  this  region  are  of  two  classes  ;  the  residents  of 
the  towns,  similar  to  the  Berbers  of  Mount  Atlas,  are  generally  a 
well-made,  muscular  race,  of  a  very  dark  complexion;  the  females 
are  modest  and  pleasing  in  their  demeanour.  The  inhabitants  of 
the  desert  are  of  Arab  origin.  They  were  formerly  always  at  war 
with  each  other,  and  with  the  adjacent  tribes,  but  they  are  now 
subject  to  Mohamed  Ali;  they  pay  him  an  annual  tribute,  and 
are  obliged  to  furnish  such  camels  and  guides  for  the  use  of  go- 
vernment and  of  travellers  as  may  be  required.  Europeans  can 
now  traverse,  under  the  protection  of  the  pacha,  the  whole  region 
from  Egypt  to  the  confines  of  Abyssinia,  with  comparative  safety. 

Some  of  the  remains  of  the  ancient  temples  found  in  Nubia  rival 
the  proudest  monuments  of  Thebes.  The  Egyptian  edifices  con- 
sist of  masonry  :  those  of  Nubia  are  either  under  ground  or  are 
dug  out  of  the  solid  rock.  One  of  the  most  magnificent  is  that  of 
Ebsambul ;  it  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Nile,  and  is  in  a 
state  of  complete  preservation,  rising  immediately  from  the  bank 
of  the  river,  and  cut  out  of  a  perpendicular  cliff;  in  front  and  near 
it  are  statues  of  colossal  size,  supposed,  when  perfect,  to  have 
measured  60  or  70  feet  in  height.  At  El  Belial,  near  Merawe, 
are  the  remains  of  numerous  temples,  pyramids,  &c. 

The  chief  divisions  of  Nubia  are  the  kingdoms  of  Dongola  in 
the  centre  and  that  of  Sennaar  in  the  south ;  the  territory  of 
Beja,  lying  along  the  west  coast  of  the  Red  Sea,  and  the  districts 
of  Kenous,  Nouba,  and  Dar  Mahas  in  the  north,  and  those  of  Dar 
Sheyga  and  Shendy  between  Dongola  and  Sennaar. 

On  the  Nile  are  the  small  towns  of  Derr,  New  Dongola,  Old 
Dongola,  El  Makkarif  and  Shendy,  containing  each  from  3000  to 
4000  inhabitants.  Suakem  is  the  port  of  Beja,  and  the  only  sea- 
port Nubia  possesses.  Here  the  pilgrims  from  the  interior  of 
Africa  take  passage  to  Jidda  and  Mecca.  The  city  of  Sennaar, 
on  the  eastern  branch  of  the  Nile,  once  estimated  to  contain  a 

729 


540  AFRICA. 

population  of  100,000,  is  now  deserted  and  in  ruins,  the  inhab- 
itants having  abandoned  it  soon  after  the  Egyptian  conquest. 
The  sovereign  of  Sennaar,  called  the  Mek,  was  lately  a  pensioner 
of  Mohamed  Ali.  Kartoom,  at  the  junction  of  the  two  great 
branches  of  the  Nile,  is  a  town  recently  founded  by  the  Egyptian 
government,  and  already  contains  15,000  inhabitants. 

Darfur  is  a  considerable  country  lying  almost  due  south  from 
Egypt  and  west  of  Kordofan.  It  is  but  little  known,  never  hav- 
ing been  visited  but  by  one  European,  (Mr.  T.  G.  Browne,)  who 
resided  there  during  the  years  1793,  '4,  '5,  and  '6  :  his  informa- 
tion, however,  is  rather  limited,  having  been,  during  most  part  of 
the  time,  viewed  with  great  jealousy  and  closely  watched. 

The  country  is  dry  and  sandy :  the  tropical  rains,  however,  in 
undate  its  level  plains  to  some  extent,  and  enable  the  women  to 
cultivate,  though  in  a  rude  manner,  some  wheat  and  millet.  Ca- 
mels, horned  cattle,  goats,  horses,  sheep  and  asses  abound.  The 
people,  supposed  not  to  exceed  in  number  200,000,  are  a  mixture 
of  Arabs  and  negroes.  The  king,  though  absolute,  is  sometimes 
deposed  and  strangled  by  the  soldiery,  who  elect  in  his  room  an- 
other member  of  the  royal  family. 

Large  caravans  pass  occasionally  between  Egypt  and  Darfur, 
interchanging  slaves,  ivory,  ostrich-feathers,  &c,  for  cloths,  car- 
pets, toys,  and  beads.  A  considerable  intercourse  of  religion  and 
trade  is  carried  on  with  Mecca  by  way  of  Jidda  and  Suakem. 
Cobbe,  the  capital,  is  not  supposed  to  contain  more  than  4000  in- 
habitants ;  it  is  about  two  miles  long,  but  consists  merely  of  ranges 
of  detached  houses  surrounded  by  wooded  inclosures. 

Bergoo,  or  Waday,  is  an  extensive  country  reaching  westward 
from  Darfur  almost  to  the  confines  of  Begharmi  and  Bornou.  Ac- 
cording to  the  imperfect  accounts  yet  received,  it  appears  to  be 
greater  and  more  populous  than  Darfur  or  Kordofan.  Wara,  the 
capital,  is  represented  as  a  considerable  city.  A  large  river,  call- 
ed the  Bahr  Misselad,  is  reported  to  traverse  the  country  in  a 
northern  and  westerly  direction. 

Kordofan,  on  the  east,  and  separated  by  deserts  from  Darfur, 
forms  a  country  nearly  similar.  Its  warriors,  like  those  of  Bor- 
nou, are  invested  in  chain  armour.  In  1820  it  was  conquered  by 
the  Pacha  of  Egypt,  who  continues  to  claim  the  sovereignty. 

Fertit,  to  the  south  of  Darfur,  inhabited  solely  by  negroes, 
contains  valuable  mines  of  copper.  Still  farther  south  is  the 
mountainous  country  of  Donga,  inhabited  by  a  barbarous  people, 
and  in  which  the  main  branch  of  the  Nile  is  said  to  have  its  origin. 


NUBIA. 


Rock  Temple,  at  Ebsambul,  Nubia. 


Interior  of  the  Temple  at  Ebsambul. 
The  excavated  Temple  of  Ebsambul  is  the  most  interesting  and  entire  specimen  of  the 
works  of  the  ancient  Nubians.  It  is  cut  out  of  a  high  rock  on  the  west  side  of  the  Nile ;  the 
interior  is  117  feet  wide,  and  86  feet  high.  It  is  adorned  with  numerous  hieroglyphics,  painted 
sculptures,  colossal  statues,  and  all  the  peculiar  ornaments  which  characterize  Egyptian  archi- 
tecture. 


Pyramid  at  El  Belial,  in  the  Southern  part  of  Nubia 

At  El  Belial  and  Merawe  are  a  number  of  ruined  temples  and  pyramids,  which,  being  built 

originally  of  a  soft  friable  sandstone,  have  become  much  decayed.    One  of  the  pyramids  h,i3 

fallen  down  in  part,  and  presents  the  curious  feature  of  a  smaller  pyramid,  entire,  and  of  a 

different  style  of  architecture,  enclosed  within  it. 

731 


AFRICA. 


Ruins  of  the  Temple  of  Soleb,  Nubia. 

Majestic   ruins,  the  relics  of  a  superior  race  and  more  civilized  times,  are  found  in  Nubia, 

at  various  points  along  the  banks  of  the  Nile.    The  remains  at  Soleb  consist  of  a  number  of 

columns,  and  other  remnants  of  a  spacious  temple,  in  which  much  architectural  beauty  haa 

been  displayed. 


View  of  the  Mountains  of  Samen,  northern  part  of  Abyssinia. 


Obelisk  at  Axum,  the  ancient  Capital  of  Abyssinia. 
Axum  is  interesting  from  its  extensive  monuments  of  antiquity;  the  great  square  alone  con- 
tains forty  obelisks,  of  which,  that  represented  in  the  engraving  is  eighty  feet  high. 


Many  of  the  Abyssinian  chiefs  wear,  as  a  mark  of  dignity,  an  ornament  in  the  shape  of  a 
slraight  horn,  projecting  fiom  the  forehead. 


ABYSSINIA.  541 

The  Shilluk  nation  reside  on  the  banks  of  the  Bahr-el-Abiad, 
to  the  southward  of  Kordofan  and  Nubia ;  the  people  are  negroes, 
and  conquered  Sennaar  in  1504  ;  many  of  them  live  on  the  islands 
in  the  river,  which  are  very  numerous.  The  Shilluks  are  men  of 
vast  size  and  strength,  and  wonderful  stories  are  told  by  their 
neighbours  of  their  prowess  in  attacking  the  hippopotamus  and 
crocodile  in  the  water,  which  they  seldom  fail  to  overcome.  They 
have  numerous  canoes  which  they  manage  with  great  skill,  and 
form  expeditions  against  their  neighbours,  both  up  and  down  the 
river.     These  people  are  now  subject  to  Mohamed  Ali.  - 

The  Denka,  who  reside  farther  up  the  Bahr  el  Abiad,  were  ori- 
ginally the  same  people,  but  they  are  now  constantly  at  war  with 
one  another ;  both  possess  great  quantities  of  cattle ;  they  are 
armed  with  long  spears,  which  they  do  not  throw,  but,  crouching 
behind  their  shields,  wait  the  approach  of  their  enemy. 


ABYSSINIA. 

Abyssinia  is  an  extensive  country  situated  on  the  head  waters 
of  the  eastern  branches  of  the  Nile.  Though  it  has  long  excited 
considerable  attention  in  the  civilized  world,  and  has  been  partially 
explored  by  the  travellers  Bruce,  Salt,  and  others ;  it  is  yet  but 
imperfectly  known. 

On  the  north  it  is  bounded  by  the  Red  Sea,  on  the  south  partly 
by  the  kingdom  of  Adel  and  the  country  of  the  Somaulies,  and 
partly  by  unknown  regions  occupied  by  the  barbarous  Galla  tribes. 
On  the  west  its  limits  are  undetermined,  but  they  probably  border 
on  the  country  of  the  Shilluks  and  Denka.  In  extent  it  is  sup- 
posed to  be  about  600  miles  long  and  400  wide,  with  a  population 
estimated  at  from  3,000,000. to  5,000,000. 

Abyssinia  is  a  country  of  rugged  mountains  intersected  by  deep 
and  extensive  valleys.  A  lofty  range,  called  Lamalmon,  bars  up 
the  entrance  from  the  Red  Sea.  The  mountains  of  Samen,  Go- 
jam,  Efat,  and  Amid-Amid  occupy  various  parts  of  the  country, 
and  are  said  to  be  very  lofty ;  the  latter  are  supposed  to  be  a 
branch  of  the  mountains  of  the  Moon. 

The  Abawi,  Bahr-el-Azrek,  or  Blue  river,  rises  to  the  south- 
west of  the  lake  Dembea,  through  which  it  flows,  and  after  a 
course  of  900  miles  joins  the  Bahr-el-Abiad  or  White  river  in  Sen- 
naar, and  forms  the  long  celebrated  Nile.  The  Tacazze,  a  smaller 
tributary  of  the  Nile,  with  the  Maleg,  Dender,  Rahad,  and  other 
rivers,  water  the  various  districts  of  Abyssinia. 

The  country  in  general  is  extremely  fertile  and  productive  where 

46  3M  733 


542  AFRICA. 

it  can  be  cultivated,  and  is  in  a  great  measure  exempted  from  that 
empire  of  sand  which  dooms  so  large  a  portion  of  Africa  to  steril- 
ity. Though  situated  within  the  Torrid  Zone,  the  climate  of  Abys- 
sinia is  for  the  most  part  temperate  and  healthful,  but  varies  with 
the  surface  and  aspect  of  the  country.  The  seasons  are  divided 
into  wet  and  dry.  The  rains  continue  to  fall  from  April  to  Sep- 
tember. 

The  domestic  cattle  of  Abyssinia  are  chiefly  a  large  white  va- 
riety, with  very  long  horns,  called  the  Sanga  or  Galla  oxen.  An- 
other, the  hunched  breed,  are  marked  with  black  and  white  spots, 
and  have  the  horns  loose,  turning  freely  either  way,  and  hanging 
against  the  cheeks.  Horses  are  numerous,  and  the  elephant,  rhi- 
noceros, lion,  and  panther  are  not  uncommon  ;  the  hippopotamus 
is  also  found  in  some  of  the  rivers  :  the  civet  cat,  noted  for  the  odo- 
riferous substance  which  it  yields,  is  in  some  places  domesticated 
for  the  sake  of  its  perfume,  an  article,  though  not  much  prized  in 
Europe,  in  great  request  in  the  East. 

Agriculture  in  this  region  is  in  a  rude  state,  yet  some  products 
are  raised  in  great  abundance.  Teff,  a  very  small  grain,  fur- 
nishes the  principal  food  of  the  people,  and  is  made  into  large  thin 
cakes.  Wheat,  barley,  Indian-corn,  and  cotton,  are  raised  in  va- 
rious quarters.  Balsam,  myrrh,  and  other  medicinal  productions 
are  common.  Salt  is  found  in  great  quantities  in  the  north-eastern 
parts  of  Tigre ;  it  overspreads  an  extensive  plain,  is  hard  like  ice, 
and  being  cut  into  convenient  pieces,  is  circulated  like  cotton  cloth 
through  the  country  as  money. 

The  people  of  Abyssinia  are  composed  of  different  tribes,  va- 
rious in  figure  and  colour ;  the  general  complexion,  however,  is 
olive.  They  are  generally  a  well-formed,  active  race,  with  long 
hair,  and  features  somewhat  of  the  European  cast.  The  Jews, 
who  comprise  an  important  class,  settled  here  in  remote  ages,  and 
have  nearly  lost  the  Hebrew  language. 

The  inhabitants  of  Tigre  are  rude  and  barbarous ;  but  the 
ferocity  and  filthiness  of  the  Galla,  a  people  who  have  conquered 
some  of  the  finest  provinces  of  Abyssinia,  almost  surpass  belief. 
In  their  incursions  they  destroy  every  human  being  without  dis- 
tinction of  age  or  sex,  smear  themselves  with  the  blood  of  slaugh- 
tered animals,  and  hang  the  entrails  about  their  necks.  These 
savages  resemble  the  Caffres  of  Southern  Africa,  but  are  smaller 
in  size ;  they  have  a  round  head,  small  eyes  and  thick  lips,  with 
fine  hair,  rather  frizzled  than  woolly. 

In  the  north-western  districts  are  found  the  Shangalla,  a  rude 
and  savage  negro  race,  with  visages  approaching  to  those  of 
apes.  They  live  under  the  shade  of  trees,  and  at  some  seasons 
in  caves.    The  Abyssinians  frequently  hunt  them  as  wild  beasts. 


ABYSSINIA.  543 

The  customs  of  the  people  of  this  country  are  exceedingly  sa- 
vage and  disgusting.  At  their  brinde  feasts  they  eat  the  raw  and 
still  quivering  flesh  of  cattle  just  slaughtered,  and  drink  their  fa- 
vourite liquors  bouza  and  hydromel  to  intoxication.  A  perpetual 
state  of  civil  war  seems  the  main  cause  of  their  peculiar  brutality 
and  barbarism.  Human  life  is  but  little  regarded,  and  dead  bodies 
are  often  to  be  seen  lying  in  the  streets,  which  serve  as  food  to 
dogs  and  hyenas.  Marriages  are  formed  and  dissolved  at  plea- 
sure, and  conjugal  fidelity  is  but  little  regarded.  The  rulers  are 
unlimited  despots  in  ecclesiastical  and  civil  affairs,  disposing  of 
the  lives  of  their  subjects  at  pleasure. 

The  Abyssinians  boast  that  their  country  was  the  Sheba  of 
Scripture,  and  that  the  queen  of  that  name  who  visited  Solomon 
was  their  sovereign.  The  Jewish  religion  was  adopted  several 
hundred  years  before  the  Christian  era ;  but  about  the  commence- 
ment of  the  fourth  century,  the  nation  was  converted  to  Chris- 
tianity, which  it  has  ever  since  professed. 

The  Abyssinian  church  owns  the  supremacy  of  the  Coptic  pa- 
triarch of  Cairo,  and  from  him  the  Abuna,  or  spiritual  head,  re- 
ceives his  appointment.  The  worship  is  very  corrupt,  and  greatly 
burthened  with  trifling  forms  and  ceremonies,  and  is  much  inter- 
mixed with  Jewish  rites  and  observances.  The  Mosaic  laws  in 
regard  to  clean  and  unclean  meats  are  respected,  and  both  Satur- 
day and  Sunday  are  observed  as  a  Sabbath.  The  churches  are 
numerous  and  much  ornamented  with  paintings,  and  the  altars 
have  the  form  of  the  ark  of  the  covenant. 

This  country  was  formerly  under  the  dominion  of  one  sove- 
reign called  the  Negus,  whose  government  was  despotic;  but  the 
conquests  of  the  Galla  and  the  disunion  produced  by  long  conti- 
nued civil  wars,  has  reduced  the  strength  and  importance  of  the 
state  to  a  low  condition.  The  power  of  the  monarch  is  now 
merely  nominal ;  he  resides  at  Gondar,  a  king  without  a  kingdom, 
and  is  kept  almost  a  prisoner  by  the  Galla  chief  of  Amhara. 

Abyssinia  now  comprises  three  distinct  states,  Tigre  in  the 
east,  Amhara  in  the  west,  and  Shoa  and  Efat  in  the  south.  The 
unsettled  condition  of  affairs  in  Abyssinia  renders  it  difficult  to 
give  any  specific  account  of  these  divisions.  Tigre  is  the  most 
important;  it  is  supposed  to  contain  about  half  the  population  of 
the  country,  and  is  governed  by  a  chief  called  the  Ras.  Shoa  and 
Sfat  form  one  state,  and  are  under  the  control  of  a  ruler,  who  is 
a  descendant  of  the  ancient  royal  family.  Amhara,  one  of  the 
most  fertile  divisions  of  Abyssinia,  is  now  governed  by  a  Galla 
chieftain. 

Adowa,  the  capital  of  Tigre,  is  the  only  point  of  communica- 
tion with  the  interior.     It  has  a  considerable  trade,  and  the  inha- 


544  AFRICA. 

bitants  are  among  the  most  highly  civilized  of  the  Abyssinians. 
Population,  8000.  Antalo,  which  has .  for  some  time  been  the 
residence  of  the  Ras,  stands  upon  the  side  of  a  mountain,  and  is 
supposed  to  contain  a  population  of  10,000.  Axum,  the  ancient 
capital,  is  now  in  ruins,  but  is  remarkable  for  its  antiquities. 
Gondar,  the  capital  of  Amhara,  is  three  or  four  leagues  in  circuit. 
The  houses  are  built  of  red  stone,  and  roofed  with  thatch.  It  is 
now  in  the  hands  of  the  Galla. 


WESTERN    AFRICA. 

Western  Africa  comprehends  that  long  range  of  coast  which 
extends  southward  from  the  Great  Desert  to  the  tropic  of  Capri- 
corn, and  from  the  sea-shore  to  the  distance  of  from  200  to  600 
miles  inland.  It  comprises  three  great  divisions,  Senegambia  and 
Upper  Guinea,  and  Lower  Guinea ;  these  names,  however,  are 
all  European,  and  unknown  to  the  natives. 

The  whole  region  is  divided  into  a  multitude  of  states,  mostly 
small,  governed  by  despotic  princes,  and  without  any  political  con- 
nexion ;  yet  there  is  such  a  resemblance  of  climate,  soil,  and 
character,  as  justifies  a  description  of  them  under  one  general 
head. 

The  rivers  of  Western  Africa  are  numerous,  though  none  of 
them  are  decidedly  of  the  first  magnitude.  The  Senegal,  Gambia, 
Niger,  Congo,  or  Zaire,  and  Coanza,  are  the  principal.  The 
Senegal  was  long  considered  the  outlet  of  the  Niger,  but  the  tra- 
vels of  Mr.  Park,  in  1795,  dispelled  that  idea.  Though  that 
mysterious  stream  has  its  rise  and  termination  in  this  quarter,  it 
must  be  considered  as  belonging  to  Central  Africa.  Farther  south, 
the  Congo,  or  Zaire,  pours  its  vast  mass  of  waters  into  the  ocean, 
which  it  freshens  for  a  considerable  distance :  the  chief  part  of  its 
course  is  still  shrouded  in  mystery.  Like  the  Senegal,  it  was  also 
supposed  to  be  the  outlet  of  the  Niger,  but  the  discoveries  of  the 
Messrs.  Landers  showed  that  opinion  to  be  unfounded. 

Extensive  portions  of  this  territory  are  covered  with  dense  and 
almost  impenetrable  forests,  and  the  soil  is  capable  of  yielding  the 
richest  treasures  of  the  vegetable  world.  Indian-corn,  rice,  mil- 
let, coffee,  sugar,  cotton,  and  tobacco,  are  all,  more  or  less,  culti- 
vated, but  chiefly  for  native  use,  seldom  as  articles  of  trade.  The 
yam,  sweet  potatoe,  banana,  pine-apple,  orange,  lime,  the  negro- 
peach,  and  monkey-apple,  are  among  the  roots  and  fruits  found  in 
nearly  all  quarters.  The  palm-tree  yields  an  intoxicating  liquor 
called  palm-wine,  and  the  palm-oil  has  become  an  object  of  great 
commercial  importance. 


WESTERN    AFRICA.  545 

The  manufactures  of  the  natives  are  generally  rude,  compared 
with  those  of  civilized  nations :  they  are  confined  to  the  usual 
African  articles  of  coarse  cotton  cloths,  a  few  rough  implements 
of  iron,  and  ornaments  of  gold.  The  inhabitants  do  not  engage 
in  any  maritime  commerce,  but  trade  with  the  American  and  Eu- 
ropean vessels  that  arrive  on  the  coast  and  at  the  different  factories, 
exchanging  their  gold,  ivory,  &c.  for  fire-arms,  gunpowder,  brandy, 
calicoes,  and  other  articles.  They,  however,  have  a  considerable 
traffic  with  the  interior  countries,  by  means  of  coffles.  The  slave 
trade,  though  declared  unlawful  to  the  northward  of  the  equator, 
is  still  carried  on  to  a  great  extent  on  the  coasts  of  Western  Africa ; 
and  the  various  native  chiefs  engage  in  and  encourage  it,  furnish- 
ing slaves  to  the  traders,  both  from  their  own  subjects,  and  from 
the  prisoners  taken  in  war. 

The  people  of  Western  Africa  are  strangers  to  literature  and 
the  ornamental  arts,  and  their  progress  in  that  which  constitutes 
improved  and  civilized  life,  is  extremely  limited.  Their  ideas  of 
religion  are  absurd  and  irrational,  and  their  gross  superstition  is 
almost  unparalleled.  Whatever  strikes  the  imagination  of  the  un- 
tutored negro,  or  appears  to  his  eyes  as  sacred  or  supernatural, 
becomes  his  Fetish,  or  object  of  worship.  Thus  he  adores  a  rock, 
a  tree,  a  fish-bone,  a  ram's  horn,  or  a  blade  of  grass ;  and  the  ser- 
pent, the  lizard,  the  leopard,  &c,  are  regarded  as  gods  among 
various  nations.  All  the  good  fortune  of  the  negro  is  supposed 
to  arise  from  the  favour  of  the  Fetish,  and  every  evil  to  proceed 
from  offence  taken  by  it. 

The  universal  amusements  of  all  the  negro  nations  are  music  and 
dancing :  as  soon  as  the  sun  descends  beneath  the  horizon,  there 
is  dancing  and  merriment  in  nearly  all  parts  of  Africa.  Their  per- 
formance, however,  in  both  brandies,  is  rude,  grotesque,  and  bar- 
barous. Polygamy  is  universal,  and  by  the  chiefs  and  princes  it 
is  carried  to  the  utmost  extent  that  their  circumstances  will  permit. 
To  have  numerous  wives  and  children  is  considered  a  matter  of 
boast,  and  is  even  converted  into  a  source  of  wealth,  for  their  wives 
are  regarded  merely  as  slaves,  and  are  made  to  till  the  ground, 
weave  cloth,  make  mats,  &c.  In  some  of  the  larger  despotic 
monarchies,  as  Ashantee  and  Dahomy,  the  wives  of  the  sovereign 
amount  to  several  thousands,  selected,  not  only  from  prisoners 
taken  in  war,  but  from  the  families  of  any  of  his  subjects. 

In  the  art  of  building,  the  native  Africans  show  bnt  little  inge- 
nuity :  there  is  not,  perhaps,  among  any  of  the  negro  nations,  a 
single  house  erected  of  stone;  earth,  branches  of  trees,  leaves, 
rushes,  and  grass,  are  the  principal  materials  employed.  Their 
villages  have  been  compared  to  groups  of  dog-kennels  rather  than 
of  houses :  the  door  is  seldom  more  than  two  or  three  feet  high, 
46*  3M*  ™ 


546  AFRICA. 

and  the  occupant  can  barely  stand  upright  in  the  most  elevated 
part  of  his  cabin :  the  habitation  of  their  chiefs,  and  even  kin^s, 
are  seldom  better  than  those  of  the  poor,  only  more  numerous, 
each  wife  having  a  hut ;  and  the  whole  assemblage  being  sur- 
rounded by  a  mud  wall,  or  dyke,  resembles  a  rude  village,  rather 
than  a  palace. 

Among  the  rich  a  considerable  taste  for  finery  prevails  ;  brace- 
lets and  rings  are  worn  in  great  numbers,  and  sometimes  of  con- 
siderable value,  on  the  arms  and  legs,  and  in  the  ears.  Costly 
robes  of  silk,  velvet,  Indian  chintz,  &c,  also  form  part  of  the 
dress  of  the  rich  :  some  of  the  women  paint  their  faces  with  white 
and  red  spots,  and  tattooing  is  likewise  practised.  The  lower 
classes  are  content  with  a  wrapper  of  the  coarsest  stuff  of  the 
country,  and  many  are  almost  destitute  of  clothing. 


SENEGAMBIA. 

Senegambia  extends  along  the  coast  of  Western  Africa,  from 
the  Great  Desert  to  the  colony  of  Sierra  Leone,  and  from  the  At- 
lantic Ocean  into  the  interior,  embracing  the  regions  watered  by 
the  various  tributaries  of  the  Senegal  and  Gambia  rivers,  extend- 
ing in  length  about  800,  and  in  breadth  about  560  miles. 

The  country  on  the  coast  is  much  of  it  flat  and  marshy,  and  very 
unhealthful  for  Europeans ;  notwithstanding  which,  the  English, 
French,  and  Portuguese,  have  some  small  settlements.  In  the 
interior  are  many  mountainous  districts,  mostly  about  the  sources 
of  the  great  rivers.  This  region  is  generally  well  watered  by  the 
Senegal  and  its  numerous  branches,  and  also  by  the  Gambia  and 
Rio  Grande.  The  climate  and  vegetable  productions  are  such  as 
belong  to  tropical  regions. 

Senegambia  is  inhabited  by  different  negro  tribes,  but  marked 
with  various  distinctions  of  person,  character,  and  manners  :  they 
live  mostly  under  petty  sovereigns,  and  in  general  are  an  easy, 
good-natured  race;  but  ignorant,  and  barbarous.  Among  these 
various  nations,  the  Foulahs,  Jaloffs,  and  Mandingoes,  are  the  most 
numerous. 

The  Foulahs  are  wjdely  diffused  over  Western  Africa :  they 
are  superior  in  form  and  feature  to  the  other  nations  in  this  quar- 
ter, and  are  of  a  complexion  inclining  to  olive :  their  habits  are 
pastoral,  and  their  character  for  honesty,  industry,  and  sobriety, 
is  proverbial.  The  Foulahs  are  supposed  to  be  the  same  people 
as  the  Fellatas  of  Soudan,  and,  like  them,  are  Mahomedans. 

The  Foulah  kingdoms  of  Western  Africa  are  a  species  of  theo- 
cracies, being  governed  by  elective,  spiritual  sovereigns,  styled 


WESTERN   AFRICA.  547 

Almamys,  or  chiefs  of  the  faithful.  The  principal  states  are  Foota 
Jallon,  Foota  Toro,  Foota  Bondoo,  and  Fouladoo,  the  original  coun- 
try of  the  Foulahs. 

Foota  Jallon,  the  largest  of  the  Foulah  states,  is  said  to  ex- 
tend about  350  miles  in  length  and  200  in  breadth,  and  lies  along 
the  head  waters  of  the  rivers  Senegal,  Gambia,  and  Rio  Grande. 
It  is  the  most  improved  of  all  the  native  states  in  this  part  of 
Africa.  The  inhabitants  manufacture  cloths  of  considerable  fine- 
ness, and  work  in  iron,  gold,  silver,  and  leather.  Here,  where 
they  are  the  ruling  people,  they  by  no  means  display  that  pacific 
character  which  distinguishes  the  tribes  on  the  lower  Gambia  and 
Senegal :  they  can  bring  into  the  field  16,000  men,  and  are  often 
engaged  in  war.  Timboo,  the  capital,  is  said  to  contain  7000 
inhabitants,  and  Laby  5000. 

Foota  Toro  is  situated  on  both  sides  of  the  Senegal  river,  and 
is  a  considerable  kingdom.  The  sovereign  is  often  at  war  with 
the  adjacent  state  of  the  almost  pagan  Darnel,  or  Burb  of  the  Ja- 
loffs :  the  latter,  however,  by  the  strength  of  his  country,  and  a 
prudent  system  of  warfare,  has  been  able  to  baffle  these  attempts. 

The  Jaloffs  inhabit  the  territory  situated  between  the  Senegal 
and  Gambia  rivers,  and  extending  from  the  sea-coast  to  a  con- 
siderable distance  in  the  interior :  though  of  a  deep  black  com- 
plexion, and  with  decided  negro  features,  they  are  the  handsomest 
race  in  Western  Africa.  They  excel  in  the  manufacture  of  cotton- 
cloth,  rival  the  Moors  in  horsemanship,  and  are  fearless  and  ex- 
pert hunters.  The  Jaloffs  occupy  several  small  states,  the  govern- 
ments of  which  are  despotic,  and  the  princes  hereditary.  Of  these, 
the  chief  are  Barra  and  Boor  Salum,  on  the  Gambia ;  Brak,  on  the 
Senegal ;  and  Darnel  and  Cayor,  on  the  sea-coast. 

The  Mandingoes  are  the  most  numerous  people  of  this  region. 
Their  employments  are  chiefly  a  slight  agriculture,  and  traffic,  in 
which  their  enterprise  exceeds  that  of  all  the  other  negro  races : 
they  trade  with  the  Americans  and  Europeans  on  the  coast,  and 
conduct  large  kafilas  to  a  considerable  distance  in  the  interior. 
These  people  are  cheerful  and  inquisitive,  and  are  inveterate  dan- 
cers :  their  taste  is  rather  more  refined  than  is  usual  among  the 
Africans,  particularly  in  poetry,  the  extemporary  composition  and 
recitation  of  which  forms  one  of  their  favourite  amusements.  They 
are  partly  Mahomedans  and  partly  pagans.  Their  original  coun- 
try is  Manding,  of  which  the  government  is  a  species  of  republi- 
canism. Bambouk,  Saloom,  Kaboo,  and  Koorankoo,  are  Man- 
dingo  states ;  and  Bambarra  and  Kaarta,  in  Soudan,  are  also  set- 
tled by  the  same  people. 


548  AFRICA. 

Bambouk,  situated  on  the  upper  Senegal,  is  almost  a  country 
of  mountains,  from  whence  rise  numerous  streams,  nearly  all  of 
which  flow  over  golden  sands.  The  trade  is  mostly  carried  on 
with  the  French,  by  the  Serrawoollies,  a  small,  but  peculiar  tribe, 
who  are  very  industrious,  and  devoted  to  traffic. 

Soolimana,  to  the  south  of  Foota  Jallon,  is  a  warlike  and  con- 
siderable kingdom,  of  which  the  sovereign  is  a  Mahomedan,  while 
the  bulk  of  the  nation  are  pagans.  The  people  are  a  gay,  thought- 
less, stirring  race.  The  two  sexes  seem  to  have  reversed  their 
occupations ;  the  women  till  the  ground,  build  the  houses,  and  act 
as  barbers  and  surgeons ;  while  the  men  tend  the  dairy,  sew,  and 
even  wash  the  clothes. 

Senegal. — Among  the  European  settlements  on  this  coast, 
that  of  Senegal,  belonging  to  France,  is  the  most  northern.  Fort 
St.  Louis,  the  chief  settlement,  is  situated  on  an  island  in  the  river 
Senegal.  The  French  lost  this  place  during  the  revolutionary  war, 
but  had  it  restored  to  them  in  1814.  The  population  is  supposed 
to  be  about  6000. 

The  commerce  of  this  colony  is  confined  to  the  gum  and  the 
gold  trade  of  Bambouk.  The  gum,  which  from  this  river  and 
settlement  is  called  gum-Senegal,  is  the  produce  of  some  scattered 
oases,  or  verdant  spots,  that  occur  in  the  Great  Desert,  north  of 
the  Senegal  river  :  it  is  collected  mostly  in  the  month  of  Decem- 
ber, by  the  Moorish  tribes  in  the  vicinity,  and  by  them  the  gum 
is  bartered  to  the  French.  The  amount  exported  is  about  250,000 
pounds. 

At  Goree,  a  small  island  near  Cape  Verde,  the  French  have 
established  the  capital  of  all  their  African  dominions :  it  is  an  al- 
most perpendicular  rock,  and  is  well  fortified.  The  town  contains 
3000  inhabitants.  It  is  a  busy  bustling  place,  being  the  entrepot 
for  all  the  opposite  coast,  and  the  point  at  which  French  ships  bound 
for  India  stop  for  refreshments. 

Gambia. — The  European  settlements  on  the  Gambia  are  entirely 
English.  Bathurst,  on  St.  Mary's  island,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  containing  a  population  of  about  2000,  is  the  principal  place. 
Fort  James,  near  the  mouth  of,  and  Pisania,  a  considerable  distance 
up  the  river,  are  small  trading  posts  :  at  Bathurst,  the  Wesleyan 
Missionary  Society  has  established  a  church  and  several  schools, 
which  are  in  a  prosperous  state.  There  is  a  mission  also  at 
Macarthy's  Island,  about  180  miles  above  Bathurst. 

South  of  the  Gambia,  on  the  San  Domingo  river,  and  other 
streams,  the  Portuguese  have  a  few  small  posts,  of  little  or  no  im- 
portance. 


WESTERN  AFRICA.  549 

SIERRA    LEONE. 

The  British  colony  of  Sierra  Leone  is  situated  on  the  west  coast 
of  Africa  about  400  miles  south-east  from  the  Gambia  river :  it  was 
founded  in  1787,  with  a  view  of  introducing  civilization  and  Chris- 
tianity into  Africa  ;  the  first  emigrants  were  negroes  who  had  found 
their  way  from  various  quarters  to  London  and  other  places  in 
Great  Britain.  The  population  was  afterwards  augmented  by  a 
number  of  American  slaves  who  had  left  the  service  of  their  mas- 
ters during  our  revolutionary  war,  and  also  of  maroons  from  Ja- 
maica. 

The  bulk  of  the  inhabitants,  however,  are  liberated  slaves  taken 
from  the  various  slave-ships  captured  from  time  to  time.  With  a 
view  to  initiate  these  people  into  the  habits  of  civilized  life,  the 
British  Church  Missionary  Soeiety  has  introduced  teachers  and 
schools  into  the  colony,  and  many  hundreds  of  the  children  are 
now  taught. 

The  population  of  Freetown,  the  capital  of  the  colony,  and  its 
suburbs,  has  risen  to  near  10,000 ;  and  eight  or  ten  little  towns 
or  villages  have  been  established  in  its  vicinity  ;  of  these,  Regents- 
town,  Gloucester,  Wellington,  &c,  are  the  principal.  The  inhab- 
itants of  the  colony  amount  to  about  30,000,  of  whom  not  more 
than  100  are  whites. 

The  extreme  unhealthiness  of  the  climate  of  Sierra  Leone  ren- 
ders it  difficult  to  procure  well-qualified  Europeans  to  settle  there ; 
and  its  unfavourable  position  on  the  coast,  in  contact  only  with  a 
few  turbulent  tribes,  not  with  any  of  the  great  and  leading  native 
states,  has  hitherto  prevented  an  impression  being  made  upon  Af- 
rica. No  radius  of  civilization  proceeds  from  the  colony,  and  it 
appears  certain  it  has  not  as  yet  realized  the  expectations  of  its 
benevolent  founders. 


GUINEA. 

Guinea,  the  largest  division  of  Western  Afriea,  extends  along 
the  sea-coast  from  the  St.  Paul's  river  to  the  Bembaroughe,  a  dis- 
tance of  2800  miles.  It  is  intersected  by  the  equator  nearly  mid- 
way between  its  northern  and  southern  extremities,  and  forms  a 
vast  crescent  around  the  Gulf  of  Guinea. 

This  region  comprehends  the  countries  of  Upper  Guinea  and 
Lower  Guinea ;  the  first,  the  most  northern  section,  ranges  from 
cast  to  west.  Lower  Guinea  lies  almost  at  right  angles  with  the 
former,  and  extends  from  north  to  south.     Though  these  coasts 


550  AFRICA. 

were  discovered  by  the  Portuguese  previous  to  the  voyages  of  Co- 
lumbus, and  have,  since  that  time,  been  much  frequented,  yet  the 
interior  districts  are  almost  unknown. 

Upper  Guinea  commences  at  the  river  St.  Paul's,  and  extends 
along  the  coast  to  the  most  eastern  estuaries  of  the  Niger,  and  into 
the  interior  from  the  sea  to  the  mountains  of  Kong.  It  is  in  length 
about  1300,  and  in  breadth  from  150  to  350  miles.  The  coasts 
are  usually  divided  by  mariners  into  the  Grain,  Ivory,  Gold,  and 
Slave  coasts,  so  named  from  the  commodities  that  form  the  chief 
objects  of  trade  at  the  respective  places. 

The  political  divisions  are,  Liberia,  Ashantee,  Dahomey,  Benin, 
Waree,  &c.  The  interior  countries  of  Guinea,  with  the  exception 
of  Ashantee  and  Dahomey,  are  almost  entirely  unknown ;  of  the 
latter  some  knowledge  has  been  obtained  from  the  different  agents 
of  the  British  government,  sent  thither  for  diplomatic  purposes. 
The  principal  rivers  are  the  St.  Paul's,  Cestors,  St.  Andrew's, 
Lahou,  Assinee,  Bossumpra,  Volta,  and  Niger. 


LIBERIA. 

The  colony  of  Liberia,  now  the  most  interesting  country  in  Af- 
rica, was  founded  by  the  American  Colonization  Society,  in  the 
year  1821,  for  the  purpose  of  facilitating  the  gradual  emancipation 
of  the  slaves  of  the  United  States. 

Liberia  is  situated  on  the  coast  of  Africa  at  the  western  extrem- 
ity of  Guinea,  and  about  4000  miles  south-eastward  from  the  At- 
lantic shores  of  this  country.  The  colonial  territory  stretches 
from  Cape  Mount  to  Cape  Pal  mas,  a  distance  of  about  300  miles. 
It  is  a  tropical  region,  lying  between  five  and  seven  degrees  of 
north  latitude,  and  possesses  the  climate,  productions,  and  charac- 
teristics of  that  part  of  the  world.  After  suffering  much  from  the 
hostility  of  the  natives,  with  whom  it  had  to  sustain  several  severe 
conflicts,  this  little  colony  has  at  length  obtained  tranquillity,  and 
is  in  a  prosperous  condition. 

The  soil  is  rich  and  fertile,  yielding  rice,  cotton,  coffee,  sugar, 
indigo,  banana,  cassada,  yams,  &c.  Camwood  is  abundant,  the 
timber  of  which  is  durable  and  well  adapted  for  building. 

Monrovia,  the  capital  and  seat  of  government,  is  a  town  of  500 
houses,  built  on  Cape  Mesurada,  and  about  200  miles  south-east 
from  Sierra  Leone ;  the  chief  of  the  other  settlements  are  Mills- 
burg  and  Caldwell  on  the  St.  Paul's  river ;  Edina  and  Bassa  Cove, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John's,  founded  under  the  auspices  and 
guidance  of  the  Pennsylvania  and  New  York  Societies ;  Green- 


WESTERN   AFRICA.  551 

ville,  a  territory  lately  purchased  by  the  Mississippi  Society,  and 
in  part  settled  by  the  colonists  which  it  has  sent  out ;  Louisiana, 
in  Africa,  a  recent  purchase  by  the  Louisiana  Society  ;  and  finally, 
on  the  extreme  south-east,  Cape  Palmas,  or  Maryland,  in  Liberia, 
the  settlement  of  the  Maryland  Society. 

The  colonists  consist  of  free  blacks,  emancipated  slaves,  and 
recaptured  Africans.  The  whole  number  is  about  5000.  The 
general  direction  of  affairs  is  in  the  hands  of  the  Society's  agent, 
but  the  local  interests  of  the  colony  are  confided  to  the  care  of 
colonial  councils  and  magistrates. 

In  Liberia  there  are  eighteen  churches,  forty  ministers  of  the 
gospel,  and  eight  hundred  professors  of  religion.  Nowhere  is  the 
Sabbath  more  strictly  observed,  or  the  places  of  worship  better 
attended.  Sunday  schools  and  Bible  classes  are  established  gene- 
rally in  the  churches,  into  which  the  native  children  are  gathered 
together  with  those  of  the  colonists ;  and  in  many  cases  adults 
also  attend.  There  are  a  number  of  week-day  schools,  supported 
generally  by  missionary  and  education  societies. 

Nearly  thirty  missionaries,  from  the  principal  religious  denomi- 
nations in  the  Union,  are  aided  and  protected  in  those  settlements 
while  devoting  themselves  to  the  great  work  of  instructing  the 
heathen  in  Christianity,  and  building  up,  amid  these  abodes  of  vice 
and  cruelty,  the  Church  of  the  living  God.  The  slave  trade, 
which  formerly  was  prosecuted  extensively  along  the  whole  west- 
ern coast,  is  now  entirely  broken  up  wherever  the  influence  of  the 
colonists  extends. 

To  different  points  of  the  coast  vessels  built  at  the  wharves  of 
Monrovia,  and  manned  and  commanded  by  her  citizens,  convey 
articles  of  American  and  European  skill,  in  exchange  for  the  gold, 
ivory,  camwood,  palm-oil,  the  precious  gums,  and  various  pro- 
ducts of  that  vast  and  fertile  country ;  thus  encouraging  the  native 
population  to  turn  from  an  illegal  traffic  to  agricultural  pursuits 
and  lawful  commerce. 

The  native  tribes  comprise  the  Deys,  an  indolent  and  inoffen- 
sive race,  occupying  the  coast  on  both  sides  of  the  St.  Paul's  river 
to  the  number  of  about  7000  or  8000 ;  the  Bassas,  also  a  peace- 
ful, but  more  industrious  and  numerous  people  farther  south,  and 
the  Queahs  and  Condoes  in  the  interior.  There  are  likewise  scat- 
tered settlements  of  Kroomen,  whose  native  country  is  near  Cape 
Palmas,  and  who  are  a  laborious  and  hardy  race,  acting  as  pilots, 
porters,  and  oarsmen  for  the  trading  vessels  on  the  coast ;  they 
commonly  speak  English. 

The  Grain  Coast,  occupied  mostly  by  Liberia,  derived  its  name 
from  the  Guinea-pepper,  or  grains  of  Paradise,  a  spice  about  the 
size  of  hemp-seed,  which  was  regarded  by  Europeans  when  they 


552  AFRICA. 

first  landed  here,  as  a  delicious  luxury ;  but,  after  the  aromatics 
of  the  east  became  familiar,  it  fell  into  disrepute. 

The  Ivory  Coast  extends  from  Cape  Palmas  to  Apollonia,  about 
400  miles :  the  name  is  derived  from  the  quantities  of  ivory  ob- 
tained from  the  elephants  on  the  sea-shore  and  in  the  interior. 
There  are  a  number  of  small  ports  along  the  coast,  at  which  Eu- 
ropean ships  occasionally  trade. 

The  Gold  Coast  extends  from  the  Ivory  Coast  to  the  Volta 
river,  about  280  miles.  This  region  derives  its  designation  from 
the  rich  product  which  its  name  indicates.  The  English,  Dutch, 
and  Danes,  all  have  here  trading  settlements,  or  forts.  The  chief 
of  these,  belonging  to  Great  Britain,  are  Cape  Coast  Castle,  a 
strong  fortress,  mounting  90  pieces  of  cannon ;  Dix  Cove,  Suc- 
condee,  Winebah,  Acra,  and  others.  Those  of  the  Dutch  are  El 
Mina,  formerly  belonging  to  the  Portuguese,  and  seven  or  eight 
others.     The  Danish  forts  are  Christianburg,  Ningo,  and  Quitta. 

The  Slave  Coast  extends  eastward  from  the  Volta  river  300 
miles,  to  the  Formosa  river,  so  named  because  slaves  were  for- 
merly procured  here  in  greater  numbers  than  elsewhere.  It  con- 
sisted, originally,  of  the  kingdoms  of  Whidah  and  Ardrah,  which, 
in  the  beginning  of  the  last  century,  were  conquered  by  Dahomey, 
and  incorporated  into  that  state. 

Ashantee,  lying  in  the  interior,  and  north  of  the  Gold  Coast, 
is  the  most  important  native  power  in  this  quarter  of  Africa.  In 
military  skill  and  valour,  in  arts  and  intelligence,  they  are  de- 
cidedly superior  to  any  other  of  the  inhabitants  of  Western  Africa. 
Large  armies  assemble  at  a  short  warning,  which  furnishes  evidence 
of  a  dense  population.  The  rude  magnificence  displayed  in  their 
camp  when  visited  by  the  English,  and  the  dignity  and  courtesy 
of  deportment  both  of  the  king  and  his  officers,  indicate  a  degree 
of  civilization  much  superior  to  that  of  the  surrounding  nations. 

There  are,  notwithstanding,  features  in  the  character  and  cus- 
toms of  this  people,  surpassing  in  barbarity  almost  any  other  ex- 
cept in  the  contiguous  kingdom  of  Dahomey.  On  the  death  of  the 
king  or  any  of  the  royal  family,  thousands  of  human  beings  are 
put  to  death :  this  is  done,  also,  when  any  of  the  great  men  wish 
to  propitiate  the  manes  of  their  ancestors,  or  when  favourable 
omens  are  sought  respecting  any  great  projected  enterprise. 

The  legal  allowance  of  wives  for  the  king  is  3333,  a  mystical 
number  on  which  the  welfare  of  the  kingdom  is  supposed  to  de- 
pend :  these  unfortunate  beings  are  no  better  than  slaves,  and  on 
any  capricious  disgust,  are  treated  with  the  greatest  cruelty,  and 
often  put  to  death. 

The  Ashantees  cultivate  rice  and  the  sugar-cane ;  fine  cotton 


WESTERN  AFRICA.  553 

grows  spontaneously,  and  tropical  fruits  are  abundant.  Their 
cattle  are  large  and  fine,  but  their  horses  mostly  of  small  size. 
They  are  but  indifferent  horsemen,  and  sometimes  ride  on  oxen. 
They  use  a  loom  similar  to  the  European,  and  produce  fine  cloths 
with  brilliant  colours.  They  also  work  skilfully  in  metals  and 
leather ;  their  articles  of  gold  are  in  particular  very  neatly  made. 

Coomassie,  the  capital,  is  said  to  have  from  60,000  to  80,000 
inhabitants.  The  houses  are  well  built  and  neat.  The  streets  are 
all  named,  and  are  each  under  the  charge  of  a  captain,  or  chief. 
Ashantee  proper  is  supposed  to  contain  a  population  of  1,000,000  ; 
but,  including  its  tributary  states,  probably  three  or  four  times 
that  amount. 

Dahomey,  lying  east  of  Ashantee,  and  north  of  the  Slave  Coast, 
extends  into  the  interior  upwards  of  200  miles.  It  consists  of  an 
extensive  and  fertile  plain,  capable  of  every  species  of  tropical  cul- 
ture. The  people  of  this  kingdom  are  warlike  and  ferocious,  and 
more  brutalized  in  their  manners  and  customs  than  any  known 
race.  Human  sacrifices  take  place  here  on  a  greater  scale  than 
even  in  Ashantee,  and  the  bodies  of  the  victims,  instead  of  being 
interred,  are  hung  up  on  the  walls  and  allowed  to  putrefy.  Human 
skulls  make  the  favourite  ornaments  of  the  palaces  and  temples : 
the  king  has  his  sleeping  apartment  paved  with  them,  and  the 
roof  ornamented  with  the  jaw-bones  of  chiefs  whom  he  has  slain 
in  battle. 

Abomey,  the  capital,  contains  about  24,000  inhabitants  ;  Ardra, 
25  miles  from  the  coast,  10,000;  Griwhee,  the  port  of  Abomey, 
about  7000  ;  and  Badagry  about  5000. 

Benin,  eastward  of  Dahomey,  extends  from  east  to  west  up- 
wards of  two  hundred  miles.  This  region  is  but  little  known;  but 
for  Europeans  the  climate  is  very  unhealthful.  The  natives  are 
active  traders  in  slaves,  ivory,  and  palm-oil.  The  king  is  not  only 
absolute,  but  he  is  considered  fetish,  or  a  god,  in  the  eyes  of  his 
subjects,  and  all  offences  against  him  are  punished  in  the  most 
cruel  and  summary  manner,  not  only  as  treason,  but  as  impiety. 

Waree,  south  of  the  Formosa  river,  is  a  much  smaller  state 
than  Benin.  The  country  is  low,  marshy,  and  covered  with  a 
thick  forest.  Here,  too,  the  king  is  absolute,  and  carries  polyg- 
amy to  a  great  extent. 

The  whole  of  this  region,  from  the  river  Formosa  to  Biafra,  in- 
cluding part  of  Benin,  Waree,  Bonny,  &c,  comprises  the  Delta 
of  the  Niger,  and  is  traversed  by  a  great  number  of  rivers.  Of 
these,  the  Nun,  by  which  the  Messrs.  Landers  descended  to  the 
ocean,  if  not  the  largest,  is  at  least  the  most  direct.  The  Bonny, 
another  large  estuary,  to  the  eastward  of  the  Nun,  has  on  its  banks, 

47  3N  745 


554  AFRICA. 

a  few  miles  from  the  sea,  the  towns  of  Bonny  and  New  Calebar. 
The  people  support  themselves  by  the  trade  in  salt,  slaves,  and 
palm-oil.  The  Old  Calebar,  Rio  del  Rev,  and  Camcroons,  are 
important  estuaries.  On  the  first,  about  60  miles  from  the  sea,  is 
Ephraim  Town,  with  6000  inhabitants,  governed  by  a  duke. 


LOWER  GUINEA. 


That  part  of  Western  Africa  lying  south  of  the  Niger  river  is 
sometimes  called  Lower  Guinea,  a  term  which  is  however  not 
generally  adopted.  Here,  as  in  Upper  Guinea,  the  interior  is  but 
imperfectly  known ;  the  heat  of  the  climate  is  extreme,  and  the 
manners  and  customs  of  the  people  are  rude  and  barbarous.  Bia- 
fra,  Loango,  and  Portuguese  Guinea,  are  the  principal  territories 
in  this  division  of  Africa. 

South  of  the  Niger,  and  extending  towards  Congo,  are  the 
Danger,  Moondah,  Gaboon  and  other  rivers ;  these  water  the 
countries  of  Biafra,  Calbongas,  and  Gaboon ;  they  are  all  of  them 
but.  little  known,  and  but  occasionally  frequented ;  the  country, 
with  a  few  exceptions,  being  very  unhealthful  for  Europeans.  It 
yields,  however,  some  ivory  and  palm-oil,  which  form  almost  the 
only  inducement  for  visiting  it. 

Loango,  situated  between  the  country  of  Gaboon  and  Congo, 
extends  along  the  coast  about  400  miles.  The  climate  is  de- 
scribed as  fine,  and  the  soil  in  the  vicinity  of  the  sea-coast  fertile, 
yielding  in  profusion  a  great  variety  of  tropical  productions.  The 
slave-trade,  for  which  alone  this  part  of  Africa  is  most  frequented, 
is  chiefly  carried  on  at  Malemba  and  Cabenda,  on  the  south  part 
of  this  region. 

Malemba  is  so  pleasant  and  healthful  as  to  be  called  the  Mont- 
pelier  of  Africa ;  and  Cabenda,  near  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  the 
same  name,  also  a  beautiful  town,  is  known  by  the  appellation  of 
the  paradise  of  the  coast.  Loango,  about  100  miles  north  of  the 
Congo  river,  is  the  chief  town  in  this  country,  but  is  now  seldom 
frequented.  Population,  15,000.  Mayumba,  in  the  northern  part 
of  Loango,  is  a  considerable  town,  the  inhabitants  of  which  are 
the  most  mild  and  intelligent  of  any  on  these  shores. 

Portuguese  Guinea. — The  next  division  of  Lower  Guinea 
consists  of  Congo,  Angola  and  Benguela.  Their  coasts,  and  also 
those  of  Loango,  are  named  by  navigators  the  coast  of  Angola, 
or  more  commonly  the  coast.  The  principal  river  is  the  Congo, 
or  Zaire,  a  powerful  and  rapid  stream,  which  enters  the  Atlantic 
by  a  single  channel ;  it  was  ascended  in  1816  by  Captain  Tuckey, 


WESTERN   AFRICA.  555 

280  miles,  yet  nothing  was  ascertained  as  to  its  origin  and  early- 
course.  The  other  chief  rivers  are  the  Ambriz,  Dande,  Coanza, 
and  Cuvo.  Of  these,  the  Coanza  is,  next  to  the  Congo,  the  most 
important  stream;  it  is  said  by  the  Portuguese,  on  the  report  of 
the  natives,  to  flow  from  a  large  lake  far  in  the  interior,  in  the 
country  of  the  Cassanges,  in  which  the  Coango,  the  head  tributary 
of  the  Zaire,  also  has  its  source. 

This  country  extends  from  the  Congo  river  to  the  Bembaroughe, 
the  southernmost  limit  of  Benguela,  about  800  miles;  and  into  the 
interior  the  distance  is  very  uncertain.  The  Portuguese  claim 
sovereignty  over  the  whole  region,  but  their  authority  is  supposed 
to  be  merely  nominal,  except  in  the  vicinity  of  their  forts,  and  in 
the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  the  coast.  The  country  was  dis- 
covered by  them  in  1487,  and  soon  afterwards  visited  by  a  number 
of  missionaries,  who  converted  many  of  the  natives  to  the  Catholic 
faith. 

Congo,  the  largest  division  of  the  Portuguese  territories  on  this 
coast,  lies  immediately  south  of  the  Congo  river,  and  extends  for 
a  considerable  distance  into  the  interior,  which  is  entirely  unknown. 
The  chief  town  is  St.  Salvador,  at  which  the  Portuguese  maintain 
a  mission.  Of  this  place  no  recent  details  have  been  received. 
In  the  natives  of  Congo  the  negro  indolence  is  carried  to  its  utmost 
excess ;  the  little  cultivation  that  exists,  carried  on  entirely  by  the 
females,  is  nearly  limited  to  the  manioc  root,  which  they  are  not 
very  skilful  in  preparing.  Their  houses  are  formed  of  mats,  made 
from  the  fibres  of  the  palm  tree,  while  their  clothes  and  bedding 
consists  merely  of  matted  grass. 

Angola  and  Benguela  lie  to  the  southward  of  Congo.  Of 
the  former,  the  chief  settlement  is  at  St.  Paul  de  Loando,  a  large 
town  in  an  elevated  situation.  It  exports  annually  18,000  to 
20,000  slaves,  mostly  to  Brazil.  San  Felipe  de  Benguela,  in  a 
marshy  and  unhealthful  site,  is  now  considerably  declined,  and  its 
population  does  not  exceed  3000,  mostly  free  negroes  and  slaves. 

Matemba,  &c. — Far  inland  are  the  countries  of  Matemba  and 
Cassange.  In  this  interior  region,  two  centuries  ago,  the  Jagas, 
or  Giagas,  were  celebrated  by  travellers  as  a  formidable  tribe, 
addicted  to  the  most  ferocious  and  revolting  habits  :  they  were 
constantly  at  war  with  the  people  around  them,  but  are  probably 
extinct  or  changed  in  their  habits,  as  they  appear  now  to  be  un- 
known. 

Moolooa. — To  the  northward  of  Cassange,  and  about  midway 
between  the  eastern  and  western  coast,  is  the  nation  of  the  Moo- 
looas,  represented  as  more  numerous  and  more  intelligent,  and  to 


556  AFRICA. 

have  attained  a  higher  degree  of  industry  and  civilization  than  any 
other  in  this  quarter  of  Africa.  The  country  abounds  in  copper. 
The  king  is  absolute,  and  the  atrocious  custom  of  human  sacrifice 
prevails. 

Cimbebas  Country. — Stretching  south  of  Benguela  for  several 
hundred  miles,  are  the  desert  and  dreary  coasts  of  Cimbebas,  on 
which  fresh  water  is  very  scarce,  and  only  found  in  spots  far  distant 
from  each  other.  The  whole  region  along  the  sea-shore  comprises 
a  strip  of  sandy  desert  40  or  50  miles  in  breadth,  behind  which  the 
interior  country  becomes  hilly  and  apparently  well  fitted  for  pastur- 
age. Horned  cattle  constitute  the  riches  of  the  inhabitants,  who  are 
clothed  in  ox-hides,  and  seem  to  be  a  mild  and  inoffensive  race. 
They  are  similar  in  appearance  to  the  Hottentots,  and  are  probably 
a  tribe  of  that  people.  These  coasts  have  been  lately  visited  by 
some  Americans,  who  held  intercourse  with  the  natives  at  a  few 
points,  and  purchased  good  cattle  from  them  at  the  low  rate  of 
one  or  two  dollars  a  head. 


SOUTHERN   AFRICA. 

Southern  Africa  extends  from  the  tropic  of  Capricorn  to 
Cape  Lagullas,  the  most  southern  point  of  the  eastern  continent : 
it  includes  the  Cape  Colony,  Caffraria,  the  country  of  the  Hotten- 
tots, and  that  occupied  by  the  Boshuanas.  It  extends  from  north 
to  south  750,  and  from  east  to  west  from  600  to  900  miles,  and 
has  an  area  of  about  480,000  square  miles. 

The  principal  mountain  ridge  of  this  territory  is  that  called,  in 
different  parts  of  its  range,  by  the  names  of  Nieuwvelds  Bergen, 
and  Sneuw  Bergen,  or  Snowy  Mountains,  which  divides  the  waters 
of  the  Orange  river  from  those  flowing  to  the  south  in  the  Cape 
Colony,  and  those  of  Caffraria,  which  run  eastward  into  the  Indian 
Ocean.  This  chain  is  supposed  to  extend  about  1100  miles  in 
length ;  many  parts  of  it  are  constantly  covered  with  snow,  and 
its  highest  peaks  are  about  10,000  feet  in  height.  Much  of  the 
surface  of  this  region  is  unfit  for  cultivation,  particularly  that  part 
of  it  in  the  colony  immediately  south  of  the  mountains,  called  the 
Great  Karroo,  which  is  a  level  plain,  covered  with  a  hard  and  im- 
penetrable soil,  300  miles  in  length,  and  near  100  in  breadth. 

North  of  the  mountains,  the  territory  gradually  improves,  till  it 
opens  into  the  extensive  pastoral  plains  occupied  by  the  Boshu- 
anas. So  far  as  this  has  been  explored,  to  the  northward,  it  be- 
comes always  more  fertile ;  though  to  the  west,  there  has  been 

748 


SOUTHERN   AFRICA. 


mi 


Gnaphaliums  and  Xeranthemamus.  Protea  Mellifcra,  South  Africa. 

The  Gnaphaliums  and  Xeranthemamus  grow  in  great  variety  in  Southern  Africa.  Many  of 
them  retain  the  form  and  colour  of  the  flower  long  after  they  have  been  gathered,  and  have 
hence  received  the  name  of  everlastings.  In  the  Protea  Mellifera  a  great  deal  of  honey  is 
secreted,  which  attracts  swarms  of  bees  and  insects,  and  also  some  kinds  of  birds. 


Arachis  Hypogosa.  Protea  Repens,  South  Africa. 

The  Arachis  Hypogaea  grows  in  Western  Africa.    The  flower-stalk  of  this  plant,  after  tho 

blossom  has  withered,  bends  downwards,  and  buries  the  germ  in  the  ground,  where  it  increases 

in  bulk,  and  soon  ripens.    The  fruit  is  a  pod,  containing  one  or  two  seeds,  or  nuts,  that  have 

the  taste  of  almonds,  and  are  eaten  by  the  natives.    A  valuable  oil  is  extracted  from  these  nuts. 


Stapelias,  or  Carrion  Flowers. 


Hottentots'  Bread,  South  Africa. 


.-  . ..(.-. .i.j,  «,  vumui]  »  I.... ..i.-,.  iiuiiciu.no    i.i<-.m.  ouulii  nmca. 

The  Carrion  Flowers,  of  which  there  are  several  kinds,  emit  an  odour,  which  so  much  resem- 
bles putrid  meat,  that  insects  are  deceived  by  it,  and  deposit  their  eggs  upon  the  leaves  •  these 
are  hatched  by  the  heat  of  the  sun,  when  the  larval    perish  for  want  of  animal  food. 

The  Hottentots'  bread  is  a  singular  production  that  attains  the  bulk  of  three  feet  in  height, 
and  the  same  in  diameter.  The  inside  is  a  fleshy  substance,  something  like  a  turnip.  This, 
when  baked  on  the  coals,   is  eaten  by  the  Hottentots. 

3N*  749 


AFRICA. 


Honey  Guide,  South  Africa. 


Bristle-necked  Thrushes,  West  Africa. 


Bushman  disguised  as  an  Ostrich. 


750 


SOUTHERN  AFRICA.  557 

observed  the  sandy  desert  of  Challahengah,  or  Karri  Harri,  which 
is  reported  by  the  natives  to  be  of  great  extent.  The  eastern 
coast  also  consists  of  a  fine  pastoral  country,  occupied  by  various 
CafTre  tribes. 

The  chief  river  of  this  region  is  the  Orange,  which,  with  its 
tributaries,  drains  a  large  extent  of  country  north  of  the  Snowy 
mountains,  and,  after  a  course  of  probably  1000  miles,  falls  into 
the  Southern  Ocean,  about  400  miles  north  of  Cape  Town. 

Those  in  the  colony,  and  south  of  the  great  mountain  chain, 
are  the  Oliphant's  river,  the  Breede,  Gaurits,  Camtoos,  Zoon- 
dag,  and  the  Great  Fish  rivers,  which  last,  though  the  most  con- 
siderable, has  not  a  course  of  more  than  200  miles.  In  Caffraria, 
a  number  of  small  rivers  flow  into  the  Indian  Ocean :  of  these, 
the  stream  most  known  is  the  Great  Kei,  about  120  miles  in 
length. 

Southern  Africa  abounds  in  animals  of  various  kinds,  many  of 
which  are  of  the  largest  size :  the  elephant,  hippopotamus,  rhino- 
ceros, lion,  and  camelopard,  are  the  principal.  The  zebra,  quagga, 
leopard,  jackal,  hyena,  and  many  other  smaller  species  of  quadru- 
peds are  numerous.  Antelopes  and  gazelles  also  abound :  the 
former  are  of  great  variety,  and  assemble  in  herds  of  many  thou- 
sands. The  Gnu  is  a  peculiar  animal,  resembling  at  the  same 
time  the  horse,  the  buffalo,  and  the  stag  ;  it  is  the  size  of  a  small 
horse,  and  extremely  swift ;  the  horns  are  large,  sharp,  and 
crooked.  This  animal  is  furnished  with  a  strong  mane  on  the 
back  of  the  neck,  and  a  long  beard,  which  depends  from  the  lower 
part  of  the  chin  :  like  the  bull  and  the  buffalo,  it  becomes  furious 
at  the  sight  of  scarlet. 

The  ox  is  the  chief  domestic  animal  in  this  region.  It  is  nu- 
merous in  all  quarters,  and  is  used  not  only  as  a  beast  of  draught, 
but  is  ridden  like  the  horse ;  and,  by  some  of  the  interior  tribes, 
it  is  trained  for  warlike  purposes.  The  horse  is  scarce,  and  is 
found  only  in  the  colony.  The  sheep  of  these  countries  are  mostly 
of  the  fat-tailed  breed. 

The  population  of  this  part  of  Africa  may  be  divided  into  the 
following  classes :  1st.  The  British,  comprising  the  officers  of 
government,  the  troops,  and  a  few  thousand  agricultural  emi- 
grants. 2d.  The  Dutch,  who  farm  most  of  the  lands  in  the 
colony,  and  constitute  the  chief  part  of  the  population  of  Cape 
Town.  3d.  The  Hottentots,  the  native  race,  part  of  whom  were, 
for  a  long  period,  slaves  to  the  colonists.  Of  the  other  Hotten- 
tots, the  chief  part  includes  various  pastoral  tribes,  and  the  re- 
mainder, the  Bushmen,  or  Wild  Hottentots.  4th.  The  Caffres, 
inhabiting  the  country  extending  along  the  Indian  Ocean.  5th. 
The  Boshuanas,  who  occupy  the  territory  lying  northward  of  the 

47  *  751 


558  AFRICA. 

Hottentot  country.  Besides  these  different  races,  there  are  indi- 
viduals called  Bastaards,  the  Cape  term  for  any  coloured  person 
with  an  admixture  of  European  blood,  however  small. 


CAPE    COLONY. 

The  Cape  Colony  occupies  the  most  southern  extremity  of 
Africa :  it  extends  from  east  to  west  650,  and  from  north  to  south 
230  miles.     Area,  120,000  square  miles:  population,  150,000. 

This  region  was  discovered  by  the  Portuguese  in  1498 ;  settled 
by  the  Dutch  in  1650;  twice  conquered  from  them  by  Great 
Britain  ;  and  finally  confirmed  to  that  power  in  1815.  A  consi- 
derable portion  of  this  territory  consists  of  mountains  of  naked 
sandstone,  or  of  the  great  Karroo  plain,  whose  hard,  dry  soil  is 
scarcely  ever  moistened  by  a  drop  of  rain.  The  finest  part  of  the 
Colony  is  the  narrow  plain  along  the  sea-coast,  which  has  a  deep 
and  fertile  soil,  and  is  well  watered  by  numerous  rivulets.  At  the 
foot  of  the  Snowy  Mountains,  beyond  the  Great  Karroo,  there  is 
an  excellent  grazing  country,  where  cattle  are  raised  in  great 
numbers. 

The  changes  in  the  atmosphere  are  frequent  and  sudden ;  grain 
of  good  quality,  wine  and  fruits  for  the  supply  of  the  Colony,  are 
all  produced  within  the  distance  of  one  to  three  days'  journey  from 
Cape  Town,  but  most  of  the  territory  is  devoted  to  pasturage. 
The  agriculture  is  generally  slovenly;  14  or  16  oxen  being  fre- 
quently used  to  draw  an  unwieldy  plough,  that  only  skims  the 
surface. 

The  Dutch  farmers,  or  boors,  of  whom  grazing  forms  almost 
the  sole  occupation,  are  generally  very  ignorant  and  indolent,  but 
extremely  hospitable.  They  live  in  rude  plenty,  surrounded  by 
their  flocks  and  herds ;  and  had,  until  lately,  numbers  of  Hotten- 
tot slaves,  who  are  now  emancipated. 

The  eastern  part  of  the  Colony,  called  the  District  of  Albany, 
was  settled  in  1820,  by  British  emigrants,  whose  prospects  were 
for  a  time  discouraging,  but  of  late  have  been  much  improved. 
The  people  carry  on  a  lucrative  trade  with  the  interior  tribes. 

Cape  Town,  the  capital  of  the  Colony,  is  built  at  the  foot  of 
Table  Mountain ;  it  is  situated  about  30  miles  north  of  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope,  and  is  an  important  station,  being  the  only  place 
of  refreshment  for  vessels  between  Europe  and  America  on  one 
side,  and  the  East  Indies,  China,  and  Australia  on  the  other.  This 
place  must,  in  consequence,  always  be  a  great  commercial  tho 
roughfare.  The  Dutch  Society  at  the  Cape  is  extremely  mercan- 
tile ;    and  Hoopman,  or  Merchant,  is  held  as  a  title  of  honour. 


SOUTHERN   AFRICA.  559 

Since  the  occupation  by  its  present  possessors,  the  residence  of 
the  civil  and  military  officers,  and  numerous  British  emigrants, 
have  given  it  much  the  character  of  an  English  town.  Cape  Town 
is  strongly  fortified,  and  contains  a  college,  public  library,  botani- 
cal garden,  menagerie,  &c:  population,  upwards  of  20,000. 

The  other  towns  in  the  Colony  are,  in  general,  only  villages. 
Constantia  and  Simon's  Town  in  the  close  vicinity  of  the  Cape, 
are  supported,  the  one  by  the  produce  of  wine,  the  other  by  docks 
for  shipping.  Stellenbosch  and  Zwellendam,  the  chief  places  in 
the  two  most  flourishing  agricultural  districts,  adjoining,  can  hardly 
aspire  to  the  rank  of  towns.  Graaf  Reynet  and  Uitenhage,  at  the 
head  of  extensive  districts  in  the  east,  are  not  more  important. 
Gnadenthal  has  been  made  a  neat  village  by  the  missionaries,  who 
have  fixed  it  as  their  principal  station. 

Graham's  Town,  a  recent  settlement  near  the  eastern  extremity 
of  the  Colony,  has  risen  to  some  importance.  It  is  an  ill-built, 
straggling  place,  containing  a  population  of  about  3000,  consisting 
chiefly  of  British  emigrants :  it  is  romantically  situated  in  a  deep 
valley,  surrounded  by  hills  and  glens. 


CAFFRARIA. 

Caffraria,  or  the  Country  of  the  Caffres,  extends  eastward 
from  the  Cape  Colony,  along  the  shores  of  the  Indian  Ocean,  to 
the  river  St.  Lucia,  being  about  650  miles  in  length,  and  from  130 
to  150  miles  in  breadth.  To  its  coasts  the  Portuguese  have  given 
the  name  of  Natal,  from  the  circumstance  of  being  discovered  on 
Christmas  day,  1498  :  this  title  is  made  use  of  by  navigators,  but 
is  altogether  unknown  to  the  natives. 

The  Caffres,  called  also  Koussas,  appear  to  be  either  a  distinct 
people,  or  a  mixture  of  the  negro  and  the  Arab.  They  are  an  active, 
vigorous  race,  of  a  deep  brown  colour,  with  features  almost  Eu- 
ropean, and  frizzled  but  not  woolly  hair.  In  their  habits  they  are 
pastoral,  and  have  large  herds  of  horned  cattle,  which  they  teach 
to  follow  and  come  at  their  call.  Milk  is  the  chief  food  of  the 
Caffres ;  they  seldom  kill  any  of  their  oxen :  and  owing  to  their 
roving  way  of  life,  do  not  depend  much  upon  agriculture. 

Caffre-corn,  a  peculiar  species,  somewhat  resembling  Indian- 
corn,  but  in  which  the  grain  grows  in  a  bunch  like  grapes,  millet, 
pumpkins,  watermelons,  and  tobacco,  are  sometimes  cultivated  by 
the  women ;  the  latter  also  construct  inclosures  for  the  cattle, 
make  utensils,  clothes,  and  rush  mats,  and  baskets  of  reeds,  so 
closely  woven  as  to  hold  milk  and  other  liquids.     They  likewise 


560  AFRICA. 

cut  wood  and  build  huts  in  the  shape  of  a  dome,  and  thatched  with 
straw. 

The  employments  of  the  men  are  war,  hunting,  and  tending 
cattle.  Their  weapons  are  the  assagay,  shield,  and  club  ;  the  first 
is  a  short  spear  which  they  throw  to  some  distance  with  surprising 
accuracy.  The  Caffres,  like  the  Chinese,  consider  all  other  na- 
tions inferior  to  themselves,  and  suppose  that  Europeans  wear 
clothes  merely  on  account  of  having  feeble  and  sickly  bodies. 
These  people  have  scarcely  any  religious  ideas :  some  of  them, 
however,  profess  to  believe  that  a  Great  Being  came  from  above 
and  made  the  world,  after  which  he  returned,  and  cared  no  more 
about  it. 

The  CafTres  comprise  the  Tambookies,  Mambookies,  and  Zoo- 
las  ;  the  last-named  are  the  most  numerous  and  warlike  of  all  the 
tribes.  Several  contests  between  the  Canres  and  the  Cape  Colo- 
nists have,  at  different  times,  taken  place,  which  have  terminated 
generally  in  the  latter  extending  their  territory  eastward,  into  Caf- 
fraria.  At  Port  Natal,  a  station  settled  by  about  5000  Dutch 
boors  from  the  Cape,  several  bloody  battles  were  lately  fought  with 
the  forces  of  Dingarn,  a  Zoola  chief,  which,  after  various  turns  of 
fortune,  resulted  in  the  success  of  the  whites. 

Several  missionary  stations  had  been  established  in  the  southern 
parts  of  this  region,  where  schools  for  the  instruction  of  the  native 
children  were  formed,  and  churches  established,  at  which  many 
Caffres  attended.  The  recent  wars,  however,  with  the  British  have 
destroyed,  in  a  great  measure,  the  good  effects  produced  by  these 
institutions,  and  forced  nearly  all  the  missionaries  to  leave  the 
country. 


HOTTENTOTS. 

Between  Cape  Colony  and  the  Boshuana  territories,  there  is 
an  extensive  tract  of  country,  stretching  from  Caffraria,  westward, 
to  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  inhabited  by  various  tribes  known  under 
the  general  name  of  Hottentots. 

On  the  Atlantic  coast  are  the  Namaquas  ;  their  country,  espe- 
cially that  on  the  north  of  the  Orange  river,  is,  in  many  parts  of 
it,  fertile  and  well  adapted  for  pasturage.  North-west  of  these  are 
the  Damaras,  who  are  also  pastoral  in  their  habits.  Thev  are 
much  darker  than  any  of  the  other  Hottentots,  and  bear  a  strong 
resemblance  to  the  negro  race.  The  Corannas  occupy  a  central 
country  of  considerable  extent,  which  rears  cattle  in  abundance. 

The  Bushmen,  or  wild  Hottentots,  inhabit  the  country  in  the 

754 


SOUTHERN    AFRICA. 


Kigali 

Cape  Town,  South  Africa. 
This  is  the  largest  town  belonging  to  the  British  in  Africa.  It  was  founded  by  the  Dutch 
in  1652,  and  is  built  with  great  regularity,  and  some  elegance.  The  streets  are  wide,  and 
cross  each  other  at  right  angles;  the  houses  are  mostly  of  stone,  and  are  generally  white- 
washed outside.  Immediately  behind  Cape  Town,  rises  Table  Mountain,  3582  feet  above  the 
sea.  The  Devil's  Hill,  3315,  and  the  Lion's  Head,  2160  feet  high,  rise  on  each  side.  This 
triple  summit  forms  a  most  conspicuous  object  from  the  sea,  over  which  also  these  spots  com- 
mand a  very  striking  prospect. 


■ws&m; 


Kureechane,  Boshuana  Territory,  South  Africa. 
Kureechane,  the  capital  of  the  Marootzees,  a  Boshuana  tribe,  is  the  largest  and  best-builJ 
native  town  yet  discovered  in  Southern  Africa.  It  lies  a  thousand  miles  north-east  from  Capo 
Town  ;  and  was  first  visited  by  Mr.  Campbell,  a  missionary,  in  the  year  1820,  who  was  surprised 
at  the  industry  and  intelligence  of  the  people,  and  the  evidences  of  civilization  by  which  ho 
was  surrounded.  Many  of  the  articles  made  here  of  iron,  copper,  leather,  pottery-ware,  &c.„ 
would  not  have  disgraced  European  workmen. 


Hottentots  constructing  their  Kraals,  or  Huts. 


755 


AFRICA. 


A  group  of  Aloes  Plants,  of  various  kinds.  Telfairia  Volubilis. 

The  tribe  of  Aloes  is  very  extensive,  170  different  kinds  alone  being  cultivated  in  green- 
houses. Many  species  are  found  in  South  Africa,  from  some  of  which  the  well-known  drug  of 
the  same  name  is  prepared. 

The  Telfairia  Volubilis  is  a  climbing  plant,  lately  discovered  on  the  coast,  of  Zanzibar.  It 
produces  an  esculent  fruit,  three  feet  long,  and  full  of  seeds  as  large  as  chestnuts,  (266  in  one 
fruit.)  These  are  as  well-tasted  as  almonds,  and  yield  an  abundant  oil,  equal  to  the  best  pro- 
duced by  olives.    This  fruit  is  now  cultivated  in  the  isle  of  France,  and  in  hot-houses  in  England. 


Tanghinia  Veneniflua.  Peach  of  the  Negroes. 

The  Tanghinia  Veneniflua  produces  a  fruit,  the  kernel  of  which,  though  not  larger  than  on 
almond,  is  of  so  poisonous  a  nature,  that  a  single  one  suffices  to  destroy  more  than  twenty 
persons.  It  has  been  long  used  in  Madagascar  as  an  ordeal  to  detect  criminals,  and  such  is  tin: 
superstition  of  the  natives,  that  they  have  the  most  unbounded  confidence  in  its  power  of  reveal- 
ing guilt  and  clearing  innocence. 

The  Peach  of  the  Negroes  is  a  large  fleshy  and  solid  fruit,  full  of  small  seeds,  and  not  much 
unlike  a  strawberry  in  flavour  and  consistence,  The  tree  grows  in  Sierra  .Leone,  and  uttains 
the  height  of  ten  or  twelve  feet. 

756 


SOUTHERN  AFRICA.  5G1 

vicinity  and  north  of  the  Snowy  Mountains.  These  people  are 
squat,  excessively  lean,  and  possess  a  wild,  unsteady  expression 
of  countenance.  They  have  no  settled  place  of  residence,  but 
wander  about  the  country  in  families,  and  subsist  on  roots,  grass- 
hoppers, toads,  lizards,  &c;  they  always  use  poisoned  arrows  in 
war,  or  in  destroying  wild  beasts  ;  and  it  is  singular  that  the  sting 
of  the  scorpion,  dangerous  to  all  other  human  beings,  has  no  effect 
on  these  savages. 

The  Colonial  Hottentots,  upwards  of  30,000  in  number,  were 
lately  emancipated  from  slavery.  Though  indolent  and  dull,  they 
are  quiet,  honest,  and  affectionate,  and  possess  an  excessive  fond- 
ness for  trinkets  and  tobacco. 

The  Hottentots  are  of  a  yellowish  brown  complexion,  with  black, 
woolly  hair,  high  cheek-bones,  small  eyes,  and  thick  lips ;  they 
are  of  a  moderate  height,  lean  in  person,  and  altogether  unprepos- 
sessing in  appearance.  Their  filth  and  indolence,  and  the  harsh- 
ness and  poverty  of  their  language,  led  the  Europeans  to  consider 
them  as  little  better  than  brutes,  and  by  their  treatment  they  al- 
most reduced  them  to  that  condition.  But  kinder  usage,  adopted 
by  the  missionaries,  has  shown  them  to  be  capable  of  improve- 
ment, and  not  to  be  wanting  in  ingenuity  and  industry. 

Their  villages,  called  Kraals,  are  circular  clusters  of  beehive- 
shaped  huts,  which  are  covered  with  mats  woven  by  the  women ; 
an  opening  in  front  serves  as  a  door,  window,  and  a  chimney. 

The  Hottentots,  at  several  of  the  missionary  stations,  now  cul- 
tivate the  ground,  own  large  numbers  of  cattle,  exercise  various 
trades,  and  contribute  liberally  to  the  support  of  religious  and 
charitable  institutions,  exhibiting  such  improvement  as  affords  a 
striking  proof  of  the  power  of  Christianity  to  elevate  men  from 
the  lowest  point  of  intellectual  and  moral  depression. 


BOSHUANAS. 

The  country  of  the  Boshuanas  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  Caf- 
fraria ;  on  the  west  by  the  extensive  desert  of  Challahengah,  or 
Karri  Harri ;  on  the  south  is  the  Hottentot  territory,  which  sepa- 
rates it  from  the  colony  of  the  Cape ;  while  on  the  north  is  the 
domain  of  various  tribes  but  little  known. 

The  Boshuanas  are  not  so  tall  and  athletic  as  the  Caffres,  but 
appear  to  be  a  nearly  similar  people,  and  have  made  greater  pro- 
gress in  industry  and  the  arts.  They  dwell  in  towns  of  some 
magnitude,  and  cultivate  the  ground,  raising  millet,  beans,  gourds, 
watermelons,  &c.     Their  herds  of  cattle  are  numerous,  which  the 

3  0  757 


562  AFRICA. 

men,  as  among  the  Caffres,  both  tend  and  milk,  while  the  females 
till  the  soil  and  build  the  houses. 

These  people  place  their  glory  in  commandoes,  or  forays,  un- 
dertaken with  a  view  of  carrying  off  cattle  and  murdering  the 
owners.  In  consequence  of  this  mutual  hostility,  the  population  is 
almost  entirely  concentrated  in  towns  or  their  immediate  vicinity ; 
these  are  in  consequence  larger  than  might  be  expected  in  this  part 
of  Africa. 

New  Lattakoo,  Meribohwey,  Mashow,  Melita,  and  Kurrechane 
appear  to  be  the  principal  towns  ;  the  latter,  1000  miles  from  Cape 
Town,  is  the  largest  in  this  region  ;  and  here  the  inhabitants  have 
made  the  greatest  progress  in  the  arts  of  life.  They  work  skil- 
fully in  iron,  copper,  leather,  earthen-ware,  &c.  Their  houses 
are  surrounded  by  good  stone  inclosures,  and  the  walls  of  mud 
are  often  painted,  as  well  as  moulded  into  ornamental  shapes. 
The  population,  when  first  visited,  was  about  16,000,  but  is  now 
reduced  in  consequence  of  having  been  sacked  by  the  Mantatees, 
a  wandering  and  predatory  tribe,  who  overran,  some  years  ago, 
a  considerable  part  of  this  and  the  neighbouring  country  of  Caf- 
fraria. 


EASTERN   AFRICA. 

Eastern  Africa  comprises  a  vast  extent  of  coast,  reaching  from 
Abyssinia  to  Caffraria,  a  length  of  upwards  of  3000  miles.  This 
extensive  region  contains  a  large  proportion  of  fertile  territory, 
capable  of  yielding  the  most  valuable  productions ;  yet  scarcely 
any  part  of  the  world  is  less  known,  or  has  excited  less  interest 
among  Europeans.  The  Portuguese,  as  soon  as  they  had  disco- 
vered a  passage  into  the  Indian  seas,  occupied  all  the  leading  ma- 
ritime stations,  from  which  they  studiously  excluded  every  other 
people. 

The  country  consists  almost  entirely  of  spacious  plains,  often 
covered  with  extensive  forests.  Two  or  three  hundred  miles  in 
the  interior,  considerable  ranges  of  mountains  arise,  which  geogra- 
phers have  called  Lupata,  or  the  Spine  of  the  World. 

The  rivers  are  of  considerable  magnitude,  though  only  their 
lower  courses  are  at  present  known.  The  Zambeze,  which  flows 
into  the  channel  of  Mozambique,  is  the  most  important  stream  of 
Eastern  Africa.  Its  current  is  extremely  rapid,  which  renders  its 
upward  navigation  tedious  and  difficult.  The  Pangany,  Ozee, 
Tuba  and  Webbe,  farther  to  the  north,  are  reported  to  be  large 
rivers,  though  nothing  has  been  ascertained  of  their  commence- 
ment and  course.  The  only  lake  known  in  this  quarter  is  the 
Maravi,  which  is  said  to  be  of  great  extent,  and  salt  like  the  ocean. 


EASTERN    AFRICA.  563 

This  territory  is  generally  occupied  by  brown  or  black  nations, 
who,  however,  bear  no  resemblance  to  the  true  negroes  except  in 
colour ;  some  of  them  are  partially  improved,  and  are  not  wholly 
destitute  of  arts  and  industry.  The  coast  has,,  in  modern  times, 
been  chiefly  in  possession  of  two  foreign  powers,  the  Portuguese 
and  Arabs.  The  former,  on  their  first  appearance  on  these 
shores,  found  all  the  principal  maritime  stations  in  the  hands  of 
the  latter,  whom  they  succeeded  in  driving  successively  from  each, 
and  occupying  their  place.  The  Arabs  have,  however,  regained 
their  ancient  predominance  on  some  parts  of  the  coast. 

The  Country  of  the  Somaulies,  the  most  northern  part  of 
Eastern  Africa,  is  situated  along  the  shores  of  the  Gulf  of  Aden, 
and  to  the  eastward  of  Abyssinia.  It  is  hilly  and  beautiful,  and 
maybe  considered  the  native  region  of  incense,  myrrh,  and  sweet- 
smelling  gums.  The  inhabitants  are  rigid  Mahomedans ;  they 
are  an  active,  industrious  race  of  people,  of  a  bright  olive  com- 
plexion, with  regular,  pleasing  features,  and  long  soft  hair,  which 
they  allow  to  flow  in  ringlets  over  their  shoulders.  Adel  and 
Berbora  are  the  principal  territories  occupied  by  the  Somaulies. 

Adel  occupies  that  part  of  the  coast  immediately  adjacent  to 
the  straits  of  Babelmandel ;  the  inhabitants  of  this  country  waged 
long  and  bloody  wars,  embittered  by  religious  enmity,  against 
Abyssinia.  For  a  century  back,  their  power  has  been  greatly 
reduced,  and  they  are  now  divided  into  a  number  of  small  sepa- 
rate states.  Zeyla,  the  capital,  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade, 
and,  though  irregularly  built,  contains  some  good  habitations. 

Berbora,  the  principal  Somaulie  state,  is  an  extensive  country, 
and  is  said  to  stretch  into  the  interior  many  days'  journey.  Hur- 
rur,  an  inland  town,  is  the  residence  of  the  sultan  of  the  Somaulies. 
Berbora  is  the  chief  commercial  port :  here  a  great  annual  fair  is 
held,  at  which  large  quantities  of  gum-arabic,  frankincense,  and 
myrrh,  are  sold.  This  place  is  visited  by  Arab  and  Hindoo  tra- 
ders :  the  latter  come  from  Cutch,  in  Hindoostan,  near  the  mouth 
of  the  Indus,  1800  miles  distant,  in  open  undecked  boats.  Gold 
and  ivory  are  brought  to  Berbora  from  the  inland  districts,  twenty 
days'  journey. 

The  countries  in  the  interior  from  this  coast,  though  imperfectly 
known,  appear  to  be  occupied  by  the  Galla  and  other  tribes,  who 
surpass  in  barbarism  even  the  rest  of  Africa.  Here,  in  a  wild  and 
mountainous  region,  is  the  kingdom  of  Gingiro,  ruled  by  a  despot 
elected  with  rude  and  savage  ceremonies,  and  who  celebrates  his 
accession  by  the  death  of  his  predecessor's  ministers  and  favourites, 
with  whose  blood  the  walls  and  gates  of  the  palaces  are  dyed. 

759 


564  AFRICA. 

Ajan,  which  on  the  north  joins  Berbora,  extends  from  Cape 
Guardafui  to  Magadoxa.  This  country  is  generally  arid  and 
'sandy,  though  in  the  northerly  parts  it  becomes  hilly  and  fragrant, 
like  the  neighbouring  region  of  Berbora.  The  coast  is  but  little 
frequented,  being  rocky  and  destitute  of  good  harbours.  The  in- 
habitants are  fierce,  warlike,  and  hostile  to  strangers. 

Zanguebar. — The  country  lying  south  of  Ajan,  and  extending 
from  Cape  Bassas  to  Cape  Delgado,  is  called  Zanguebar  or  Zan- 
zibar. It  contains  several  distinct  states,  of  which  but  little  is 
known ;  of  these,  the  principal  appear  to  be  Magadoxa,  Mombas 
and  Quiloa.  This  territory,  when  discovered  by  the  Portuguese, 
was  occupied  by  the  Sohilies,  a  peaceable  and  industrious  people; 
but  the  coast  has  now  been  mostly  wrested  from  them  by  the 
Arabs  of  Muscat,  while  much  of  the  interior  is  possessed  by  the 
Galla,  the  same  ferocious  race  who  have  conquered  the  southern 
parts  of  Abyssinia,  and  who,  in  the  course  of  a  furious  warfare, 
have  destroyed  every  sea-port  on  this  coast  which  was  not  pro- 
tected by  an  insular  position. 

Magadoxa  extends  from  Cape  Bassas  to  the  equator :  its  limits 
inland  have  not  been  ascertained.  The  prince  of  this  territory 
having  succeeded  in  maintaining  his  independence  and  repelling 
all  European  intercourse,  does  not  allow  the  country  to  be  ex- 
plored :  it  is  in  consequence  but  very  little  known. 

The  capital,  a  town  of  the  same  name  as  the  country,  makes 
a  handsome  appearance  from  the  sea.  It  contains  many  lofty 
stone  fabrics ;  but  these  belong  to  a  part  which,  comprising  only 
tombs,  may  be  called  the  City  of  the  Dead.  The  habitations  of 
the  living  are  low  thatched  huts.  A  considerable  trade  with  the 
interior  regions  is  said  to  be  carried  on. 

Brava,  in  the  southern  part  of  Magadoxa,  is  a  small  Arab  town 
and  territory,  having  a  trifling  commerce. 

Melinda,  which  stretches  from  the  equator  to  Mombas,  was  at 
the  time  the  Portuguese  first  became  acquainted  with  these  regions, 
and  for  a  considerable  time  afterwards,  the  most  powerful  and  im- 
portant kingdom  on  the  coast ;  but  it  hrvs  been  long  in  a  state  of 
decay,  and  was  lately  overrun  and  destroyed  by  the  savage  Galla. 

Melinda,  the  capital,  once  a  handsome  and  flourishing  city  and 
a  great  commercial  emporium,  is  now  completely  destroyed ;  it 
was  conquered  by  the  Portuguese  at  an  early  period,  but  it  was 
taken  from  them  by  the  Arabs  in  1698.  Patta,  formerly  a  town 
of  considerable  note,  has  lost  its  importance,  and  the  chief  part  of 
its  trade  has  been  transferred  to  the  neighbouring  flourishing  port 
of  Lamoo. 


EASTERN   AFRICA.  565 

Mombas,  south  of  Melinda,  is  fertile  in  grain  and  well  adapted 
for  the  sugar-cane;  the  small  shells,  called  cowries,  are  collected 
in  great  abundance  along  its  shores.  The  town  of  Mombas  is  situ- 
ated on  a  small  island  surrounded  by  high  cliffs  which  make  it  a 
kind  of  natural  castle.  The  harbour  is  excellent,  and  a  consider- 
able trade  is  carried  on  along  the  coast  in  dows,  (Arab  vessels 
whose  planks  are  sewed  together,)  often  of  250  tons  burthen. 

Quiloa,  situated  to  the  northward  of  Cape  Delgado,  was  found 
by  the  Portuguese,  a  great  seat  of  power  and  commerce,  and  be- 
came a  part  of  their  territory.  About  the  end  of  the  seventeenth 
century  it  was  wrested  from  them  by  the  Imam  of  Muscat,  whose 
officers  have  since  governed  it.  The  city  of  Quiloa,  once  a  great 
emporium,  has  long  since  dwindled  into  a  miserable  village. 

Portuguese  Possessions. — On  this  coast  the  Portuguese  at  pre- 
sent claim  authority  from  Cape  Delgado  to  Delagoa  Bay,  a  region 
about  1300  miles  in  length,  and  extending  for  some  distance  into 
the  interior.  This  territory  they  denominate  the  government  of 
Mozambique ;  but  their  power  is  exercised  at  only  a  few  detached 
points,  and  is  much  less  regarded  by  the  natives  than  formerly. 
Querimba,  Sena,  Sofala,  Sabia,  and  Inhambane  are  districts  in- 
cluded in  this  government. 

The  Bororas  and  Makooas  are  populous  and  savage  tribes  in 
the  interior,  who  live  to  the  westward  of  Mozambique  and  north 
of  the  Zambeze  river  :  the  latter  are  said  to  be  cannibals. 

Mozambique,  the  principal  settlement  of  the  Portuguese  in  East- 
ern Africa,  is  situated  300  miles  north  of  the  mouth  of  the  Zam- 
beze river.  It  has  hitherto  derived  its  importance  from  being  the 
emporium  of  the  trade  brought  from  the  interior  down  that  stream, 
but  which  has  been,  in  a  great  measure,  transferred  to  Quillimane. 

The  traffic  in  slaves,  the  most  extensive,  has  been  much  dimin- 
ished since  the  British  obtained  possession  of  Mauritius  and  the 
Cape,  and  prohibited  the  introduction  of  them  into  these  colonies. 

Quillimane,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Zambeze,  is  now  the  chief  seat 
of  commerce  on  this  part  of  the  coast.  The  situation  is  swampy 
and  unhealthy ;  the  population  is  about  3000,  mostly  negroes. 
Gold,  ivory,  and  slaves  are  the  chief  exports :  the  last  are  sent 
principally  to  Rio  Janeiro. 

In  the  interior,  on  the  Upper  Zambeze,  the  Portuguese  possess 
merely  the  small  forts  of  Sena  and  Tete,  erected  with  a  view  to 
the  protection  of  their  trade ;  with  two,  still  smaller,  in  the  more 
remote  stations  of  Zumbo  and  Manica.  The  country  is  generally 
fertile,  and  produces,  besides  the  necessaries  of  life,  honey,  wax, 
senna,  and  other  drugs. 

48  30*  761 


566  AFRICA. 

Sqfala,  supposed  by  some  to  be  the  Ophir  whence  Solomon 
drew  large  supplies  of  gold  and  precious  stones,  was,  at  the  time 
of  the  first  arrival  of  Europeans,  an  important  commercial  empo- 
rium ;  but  since  Quillimane  has  engrossed  the  trade  of  the  coast, 
this  place  has  sunk  into  a  village  of  poor  huts.  The  Portuguese, 
however,  still  maintain  there  a  fort,  which  holds  supremacy  over 
the  districts  of  Sabia  and  Inhambane. 

Sabia,  immediately  south  of  Sofala,  is  thinly  settled,  although 
the  soil  is  fertile ;  in  the  most  southern  part  of  this  territory  is  In- 
hambane; the  chief  town  is  of  the  same  designation:  it  has  an 
excellent  harbour,  and  is  defended  by  a  fort  and  150  men.  The 
other  Portuguese  do  not  exceed  twenty-five,  but  there  is  a  numer- 
ous coloured  population. 

Monomotapa,  or  Motapa,  situated  westward  from  Sofala,  and 
southward  from  the  Zambeze  river,  has  been  dignified  in  the  early 
narratives  with  the  title  of  empire.  If  it  ever  deserved  such  an 
appellation,  it  is  now  broken  into  fragments,  the  largest  of  which 
was  some  time  ago  held  by  the  Changamera,  a  chief  represented 
aa  a  great  conqueror,  but  of  whom  no  very  precise  or  recent  in- 
formation has  reached  us.  He  belonged  to  the  Maravi,  a  race  of 
daring  freebooters,  who  neglect  agriculture  and  devote  themselves 
entirely  to  plunder.  Manica  is  celebrated  as  the  country  chiefly 
affording  the  gold  for  which  this  part  of  Africa  is  famous.  A 
small  fort  is  maintained  here  by  the  Portuguese. 

Cazembe,  a  country  situated  900  or  1000  miles  in  the  interior, 
is  said  to  be  densely  inhabited.  The  country,  the  capital,  and  the 
sovereign  appear  to  be  all  of  the  same  name ;  the  latter  is  abso- 
lute in  power,  and  rules  despotically.  This  territory  yields,  in 
abundance,  iron  and  copper,  and  also  some  gold,  and  is  the  seat 
of  a  very  considerable  trade  in  ivory  and  slaves.  The  inhabitants 
belong  to  the  Moviza,  who  are  a  comparatively  peaceable  and  in- 
dustrious people.  These,  with  the  Maravi  before  mentioned,  are 
the  predominant  races  in  this  quarter. 


CENTRAL    AFRICA. 

Central  Africa  comprises  all  the  interior  parts  of  the  conti- 
nent, stretching  from  the  Great  Desert  south  to  the  equator  and 
the  confines  of  Guinea,  and  from  Senegambia  on  the  west  to  Dar- 
fur  on  the  east,  extending  in  length  about  2000,  and  from  500  to 
1000  miles  in  width. 

A  great  proportion  of  this  region  is  yet  entirely  unknown  to 
Christian  nations;  and  it  is  only  within  the  last  forty  or  fifty  years 


CENTRAL    AFRICA.  567 

that  the  courage  and  enterprise  of  the  celebrated  travellers,  Park, 
Denham  and  Clapperton,  Caille,  and  the  brothers  Landers,  have 
explored  some  detached  portions  of  its  territory. 

The  Mountains  of  the  Moon,  though  known  to  the  ancients  by 
the  same  name,  are  still  unexplored,  and  have  never  been  visited 
by  any  Christian  traveller :  the  mountains  of  Abyssinia  are  sup- 
posed to  be  connected  with  them  on  the  east,  and  those  of  Kong 
on  the  west,  and  they  are  generally  represented  in  that  manner  on 
maps  :  they  would  thus  form  a  range  of  near  4000  miles  in  extent. 
These  mountains,  south  of  Darfur,  are,  according  to  native  report, 
constantly  covered  with  snow,  which,  in  that  latitude,  would  give 
them  an  elevation  of  near  15,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean. 
The  Kong  Mountains,  however,  where  crossed  by  British  travellers 
west  of  the  Niger,  were  found  not  to  exceed  from  2500  to  3000 
feet  in  height. 

The  long-renowned  Niger,  for  ages  involved  in  such  deep  mys- 
tery, appears  to  be  the  chief  river  of  Central  Africa  :  though  much 
of  its  course  is  unexplored,  yet  it  is  known  to  rise  about  200  miles 
inland  from  Sierra  Leone ;  thence  passing  in  a  north-east  direction 
towards  Timbuctoo,  it  appears  to  take  a  great  bend  to  the  south- 
ward, and  after  flowing  through  various  territories,  pours  its  vast 
mass  of  waters  into  the  Gulf  of  Guinea,  forming  one  of  the  greatest 
deltas  in  the  world  ;  its  estuaries  covering  a  space  of  200  miles. 

The  whole  extent  of  this  great  stream  is  but  little  less  than  3000 
miles.  In  the  upper  part  of  its  course  it  is  called  the  Joliba,  and 
in  the  lower  the  Quorra.  The  Tsadda,  the  principal  known 
branch  of  the  Niger,  and  the  Shary  and  Yeou,  which  flow  into 
lake  Tchad,  are  the  other  chief  rivers  of  this  region. 

In  this  part  of  Africa  there  are  but  few  lakes :  the  most  pre- 
eminent is  the  Tchad,  situated  to  the  eastward  of  Bornou ;  it  is 
almost  200  miles  long  and  150  wide,  and  contains  numerous  large 
islands,  inhabited  by  savage  tribes,  said  to  be  infidels  and  pirates. 
The  Dibbie,  Delo,  or  Dark  Lake,  formed  by  the  Niger  about  200 
miles  above  Timbuctoo,  is  much  less  extensive.  The  names  of 
lake  Fittre  and  others,  lying  east  of  the  Tchad,  have  been  vaguely 
reported ;  but  of  their  situation  and  character,  geographers  are 
ignorant. 

Central  Africa  may  be  considered  as  divided  into  two  great  sec- 
tions ;  that  on  the  north  of  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon,  is  known 
by  the  appellation  of  Soudan,  or  Nigritia,  of  which  some  portions 
have  been  explored  by  Christian  travellers  ;  and  the  other,  extend- 
ing southward  to  the  equator,  and  by  some  denominated  Ethiopia, 
is,  as  regards  our  knowledge  of  it,  a  vast  blank ;  no  European 
having  ever  penetrated  into  its  remote  and  unknown  territories. 

Agriculture  is  practised  over  the  whole  of  Central  Africa,  though 


568  AFRICA. 

in  a  very  rude  manner.  The  plough  appears  never  to  have  passed 
the  desert ;  the  only  instrument  for  turning  up  the  ground  being 
the  hoe,  which  does  little  more  than  scratch  the  surface ;  yet  the 
fertility  of  the  soil  produces  abundant  crops.  Gussub,  a  species 
of  millet,  is  the  chief  product  of  Bornou,  which,  instead  of  being 
formed  into  bread,  is  merely  boiled  into  a  paste.  In  Houssa,  two 
crops  of  wheat  are  produced  in  the  year;  and  the  markets  are 
abundantly  supplied  with  fruits  and  vegetables.  Rice  is  raised  co- 
piously on  the  inundated  banks  of  the  Niger ;  and  Indian-corn,  cot- 
ton, and  indigo,  are  produced  in  nearly  all  quarters. 

Commerce,  throughout  this  region,  is  carried  on  with  some  ac- 
tivity, though  in  modes  rather  peculiar.  Maritime  trade  is  pre- 
cluded by  its  situation,  far  distant  from  any  coast.  Even  river 
navigation  is  not  practised  with  much  diligence,  unless  on  the 
Niger.  Various  commodities  are  conveyed  by  large  troops,  some- 
times resembling  little  armies,  called  caravans,  kafilas,  or  coffles. 
Those  which  pass  between  Northern  and  Central  Africa,  across 
the  immense  expanse  of  the  desert,  employ  camels,  so  admirably 
fitted  by  Providence  for  the  service  of  man  in  that  dreary  region. 

In  the  wooded  and  mountainous  tracts  of  Western  and  Southern 
Soudan,  burdens  are  chiefly  conveyed  by  means  of  asses ;  while 
in  the  great  fertile  plains  of  Houssa  and  Eyeo,  the  human  head  is 
the  most  frequent  vehicle.  Salt,  in  large  quantities,  is  brought 
from  pits  in  the  interior  of  the  desert ;  and  kolla-nuts,  a  favourite 
luxury,  are  transported  from  the  western  districts  over  all  parts  of 
this  region.  The  returns  made  to  the  countries  on  the  sea-coast 
consist  of  gold,  ivory,  and  slaves. 

War,  in  Central  Africa,  is  carried  on  with  all  the  ferocity  of  the 
most  barbarous  nations :  extensive  tracts,  formerly  populous  and 
flourishing,  were  seen  by  recent  travellers  reduced,  by  it,  to  a  state 
of  entire  desolation.  Many  of  the  contests  that  take  place  in  these 
countries  arise  from  the  system  of  slave-hunting,  carried  on  against 
the  pagan  tribes  of  the  southern  mountainous  districts,  which  the 
Fellatas  and  Bornouese  look  upon  as  a  grand  entertainment,  though 
sometimes  they  fail  in  the  accomplishment  of  their  object. 

The  armies  of  the  various  states  of  Soudan  consist  chiefly  of  a 
turbulent  militia,  who  take  the  field  on  the  summons  of  the  prince, 
and  support  themselves  by  plunder.  The  military  force  of  Bornou 
and  Begharmi  consists  of  cavalry,  which  has  a  very  martial  ap- 
pearance ;  the  horses,  as  well  as  their  riders,  being  completely 
enveloped  in  chain  and  sometimes  in  plate  armour ;  these  troops, 
however,  are  generally  cowardly  and  inefficient.  The  Kanemboo 
spearmen,  organized  by  the  present  Sheik  of  Bornou,  form  the 
most  regular  and  effective  force  in  Interior  Africa.  They  march 
with  merely  a  skin  around  their  waist,  and  their  only  weapons  are 


CENTRAL  AFRICA.  569 

a  long  shield  and  a  spear.  Fire-arms  are  almost  unknown,  the 
most  powerful  princes  having  only  a  few  inferior  muskets.  The 
caravan  followers,  armed  with  these  weapons,  are  thus  superior  to 
thousands  of  their  opponents,  and  often  decide  the  battle  between 
the  greatest  sovereigns. 

In  religion,  the  inhabitants  are  pretty  equally  divided  between 
the  Pagan  and  Mahomedan.  The  adherents  of  the  latter  do  not 
strictly  conform  to  the  recluse  and  contracted  habits  of  life  gene- 
rally prevailing  among  nations  of  that  profession  :  the  females  are 
by  no  means  so  closely  immured,  and  intoxicating  liquors  are  not 
rigidly  abstained  from.  One  fixed  article  of  belief  among  them 
is,  that  they  may  lawfully  reduce  to  slavery  all  the  kerdies,  or  pa- 
gans, who  people  the  southern  mountain  districts. 

Learning,  throughout  Central  Africa,  appears  in  a  very  depressed 
state.  The  reading  even  of  the  Koran  is  confined  to  a  very  few 
of  the  great  fighis,  or  doctors.  Its  verses  are  chiefly  employed  as 
amulets  to  secure  triumph  over  enemies,  or  success  in  the  different 
pursuits  of  life;  and  a  person  capable  of  writing  these  is  held  in 
high  estimation.  Extemporary  poetry,  sung  by  the  composers,  is 
repeated  at  almost  all  the  African  courts.  Singing  men  and  sing- 
ing women  are  constant  attendants  on  the  chiefs  and  caboceers : 
their  songs,  however,  are  generally  conceived  in  terms  of  the 
grossest  flattery. 

The  government  in  these  countries  is  completely  despotic ;  and 
in  most  of  the  states,  the  homage  paid  to  rulers  and  grandees  is 
far  more  abject  and  debasing  than  in  any  civilized  empire :  yet 
their  dwellings,  usual  attire,  and  daily  habits,  differ  little  from  those 
of  their  meanest  subjects.  The  kings  have  no  regular  revenue, 
or  income,  but  enrich  themselves  by  presents,  and  by  taxing  the 
passing  caravans ;  they  also  carry  on  a  good  deal  of  traffic,  in 
which  they  scruple  not  to  employ  both  force  and  stratagem  for 
their  own  advantage. 

Kaarta,  the  most  western  state  in  Soudan,  is  a  somewhat  ex- 
tensive kingdom,  with  a  sandy  but  moderately  fertile  soil.  The 
capital  is  Kemmoo.  Manding,  the  original  country  of  the  Man- 
dingoes,  south-east  from  Kaarta,  is  a  mountainous  and  rather  ste- 
rile region,  in  which  gold  is  found  to  some  extent  in  the  sand  of 
the  streams  and  rivers.  Bour£,  Kankan,  Wassela,  &c,  are 
countries  situated  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Niger :  of  these,  Boure 
abounds  in  gold.  Kankan  is  famous  for  the  great  market  held 
at  its  chief  town,  at  which  not  only  gold  and  all  the  products  of 
this  part  of  the  world,  but  European  goods  in  great  variety,  arms, 
powder,  &c,  are  exhibited  for  sale.  Wassela  is  a  rich  territory, 
inhabited  by  an  industrious  and  hospitable  people.     Kong,  Dag- 

48*  ™ 


570  AFRICA. 

wumba,  Gago,  &c,  are  countries  situated  between  the  Niger  river 
and  the  Kong  mountains,  whose  names  are  known  only  from  na- 
tive report. 

Bambarra  consists  of  a  fertile  and  well-cultivated  territory, 
through  which  the  Niger  flows  for  about  300  miles.  In  Mr.  Park's 
time  it  comprised  one  kingdom,  but  now  appears  to  be  divided  into 
two,  which,  in  reference  to  their  situation  on  the  Niger  river,  may 
be  termed  Upper  Bambarra  and  Lower  Bambarra  ;  the  latter 
appears  to  be  the  most  powerful  state,  and  was  governed,  in  1828, 
by  Sego  Ahmadou,  a  Fellata  chief.  His  capital  is  El  Lamdou,  a 
town  lying  east  of  the  Niger,  and  some  distance  north  of Jenne. 

Sego,  the  capital  of  Upper  Bambarra,  is  built  on  both  sides  of 
the  Niger,  and  contains  30,000  inhabitants.  At  this  place,  the 
numerous  canoes  on  the  river,  the  crowded  population,  and  the 
cultivated  state  of  the  surrounding  country,  exhibit  altogether  a 
scene  of  civilization  and  improvement  scarcely  to  be  expected  in 
the  centre  of  Africa.  Sansanding,  a  great  commercial  town 
higher  up  the  Niger,  contains  10,000  people.  Bammakoo,  where 
the  Niger  first  becomes  navigable  for  large  canoes ;  Maraboo,  a 
great  market  for  salt ;  Samee  and  Silla,  near  the  eastern  frontier, 
are  all  considerable  towns  on  the  Niger. 

Jenne,  the  chief  city  of  Lower  Bambarra,  is  built  on  a  branch 
of  the  Niger,  and  is  a  place  of  great  commercial  importance ;  its 
merchants,  chiefly  Moors,  trade  with  Sego,  Timbuctoo,  and  other 
places  on  the  river  by  means  of  large  boats.  M.  Caille  found  the 
merchants  of  this  city  more  polished  than  any  other  class  of  per- 
sons he  met  with  in  Central  Africa.  Population  from  8000  to  10,000. 

North  of  Bambarra  are  the  kingdoms  of  Massina  and  Beroo, 
of  which  the  former  is  inhabited  by  the  Foulahs,  and  the  latter  is 
famous  for  its  trade  in  salt.  The  capital  is  Walet,  said  to  be  large 
and  important.  Baedoo  and  Maniana  are  countries  lying  east- 
ward of  Bambarra,  known  only  by  name :  the  inhabitants  of  the 
latter  are  reported  to  be  cannibals. 

Timbuctoo  is  a  territory  situated  on  the  Niger  river,  1 000  miles 
from  the  nearest  coast ;  it  was  once  an  important  kingdom,  whose 
authority  extended  over  Houssa  and  the  neighbouring  countries, 
but  is  now  a  subject  state  under  the  dominion  of  the  Fellatas.  Its 
celebrated  capital,  being  the  place  where  the  caravans  from  Mo- 
rocco, and  most  of  those  from  Algiers  and  Tunis,  first  touch  on 
the  fertile  regions  of  Central  Africa,  must  always  possess  great 
commercial  importance,  and  a  depot  is  found  there  o(  the  commo- 
dities which  it  affords  for  exchange  with  other  countries.  Gold, 
and  still  more,  slaves,  are  the  staple  articles. 

The  city  of  Timbuctoo  has  been  for  several  hundred  years  the 


CENTRAL   AFRICA.  571 

most  noted  emporium  in  Central  Africa,  and  has  long  excited  great 
attention  for  its  supposed  riches.  M.  Caille,  who  visited  Timbuctoo 
in  1828,  and  the  only  European  who  has  ever  returned  from  that 
city,  has  dispelled,  in  a  great  measure,  the  reputation  it  enjoyed 
for  wealth  and  importance.  According  to  that  traveller,  the  popu- 
lation is  chiefly  negroes,  and  about  12,000  in  number. 

The  city  stands  eight  miles,  north  of  the  Niger,  in  the  midst  of 
deserts  of  moving  sand.  It  consists  of  ill-built  earthen  houses,  and 
contains  seven  mosques.  Timbuctoo  is  about  1400  miles  south- 
west from  Tripoli ;  1000  from  Morocco,  and  probably  not  less  than 
1500  or  1600  from  the  ocean  by  the  course  of  the  river. 

Houssa  is  an  extensive  territory,  situated  in  the  centre  of  Sou- 
dan and  lying  east  of  the  Niger  river ;  it  is  more  elevated,  and  has 
a  climate  less  sultry  than  Bornou  or  any  of  the  neighbouring  dis- 
tricts :  travellers  have  even  occasionally  suffered  from  cold.  The 
soil  is  rich  and  fertile,  and  the  face  of  the  country  exhibits  evident 
marks  of  superior  cultivation  and  a  superior  people. 

This  region  is  in  possession  of  the  Fellatas,  an  active  warlike 
race,  said  to  be  similar  to  the  Foulahs  of  Western  Africa.  They 
are  supposed  to  have  emigrated  originally  from  that  quarter,  and 
have  been,  since  the  commencement  of  the  present  century,  the 
most  prominent  nation  in  Central  Africa :  about  that  period  they 
conquered  Houssa,  and  several  other  countries  on  the  Niger,  be- 
sides Bornou,  which  last,  however,  they  retained  but  a  short  time. 
The  Fellatas  are  a  tall  and  well-made  people  of  a  light  bronze 
complexion,  and  with  features  approximating  to  the  European. 

Soccatoo,  the  capital  of  Houssa,  and  the  residence  of  Sultan 
Bello,  the  Fellata  sovereign,  is  the  most  populous  city  in  Central 
Africa.  The  houses  are  built  closer  than  usual,  and  more  regu- 
larly laid  out  in  streets.  The  place  is  surrounded  by  a  high  wall, 
with  twelve  gates  always  shut  at  sunset.     Population,  60,000. 

Kano,  lying  about  200  miles  south-east  from  Soccatoo,  is  the 
centre  of  an  extensive  commerce.  It  is  a  walled  city,  15  miles  in 
circumference.  The  houses,  however,  are  built  in  a  very  scattered 
manner,  and,  like  Kashna,  Zaria,  Youri,  Eyeo,  and  other  cities  in 
this  quarter,  they  occupy  but  a  small  part  of  the  circuit  inclosed  by 
its  walls.     The  inhabitants  amount  to  30,000. 

Kashna,  to  the  north  of  Kano,  is  also  a  considerable  city ;  its 
walls,  however,  encircle  ten  times  the  space  occupied  by  its  in- 
habitants. This  city  is  the  seat  of  a  considerable  trade  with  Bor- 
nou, Timbuctoo,  and  with  caravans  coming  across  the  desert  by 
the  way  of  Gadames  and  Tuat. 

South  of  Kano  is  Zegzeg,  one  of  the  finest  and  most  fertile  dis- 
tricts in  Soudan.     Zaria,  the  capital,  has  a  population  of  40,000. 

767 


572  AFRICA. 

Cuttup  is  a  collection  of  500  villages,  or  rather  clusters  of  houses, 
covering  a  beautiful  plain :  it  forms  the  market  for  a  great  extent 
of  country.  Farther  south,  occupying  a  mountainous  region,  are 
the  Yam  Yams,  a  savage  race,  who,  some  time  ago,  are  said  to 
have  killed  and  eaten  a  whole  caravan.  Dunrora  and  Jacoba,  the 
latter  situated  on  the  Tsadda,  with  Adamowa  and  Karowa  farther 
to  the  east,  are  all  places  reported  of  some  note,  situated  in  the 
midst  of  fertile  and  well-settled  districts. 

The  countries  on  the  lower  course  of  the  Niger  form  an  exten- 
sive and  important  part  of  Central  Africa.  Being  copiously  wa- 
tered, they  yield  rice  and  other  valuable  species  of  grain  in  abun- 
dance. The  inhabitants  are  negroes,  but  the  Fellatas  are  making 
rapid  encroachments,  and  several  of  the  states  have  been  conquered 
by  them  and  converted  to  the  Mahomedan  faith. 

Youri  consists  of  a  very  fertile  plain,  peculiarly  fitted  for  the 
production  of  rice.  The  city  of  the  same  name,  built  on  the  east 
bank  of  the  Niger,  is  encompassed  by  high  walls,  which  inclose 
a  circuit  of  twenty  or  thirty  miles,  comprising  corn-fields  and  pas- 
ture-grounds, with  here  and  there  a  cluster  of  huts  interspersed. 
The  people,  being  numerous  and  brave,  have  repelled  every  attempt 
by  the  Fellatas  to  subdue  them. 

Boussa. — The  kingdom  of  Boussa  lies  immediately  below  Youri 
on  the  Niger.  The  capital  is  a  considerable  town,  situated  in 
the  midst  of  a  fertile  and  well-cultivated  country.  The  Niger, 
immediately  above  and  below  Boussa,  presents  a  magnificent  body 
of  water :  in  passing  that  city,  however,  it  is  obstructed  by  the 
rocks  and  straits,  among  which  the  lamented  Park  lost  his  life. 

Borgoo,  situated  west  of  Boussa,  is  a  confederacy  of  small,  in- 
dependent states ;  the  country  is  composed,  in  a  great  measure, 
of  rugged  mountain  tracts,  interspersed  with  fertile  and  beautiful 
valleys.  Kiama,  the  only  part  of  Borgoo  visited  by  English  trav- 
ellers, is  inhabited  by  a  courageous  and  warlike  people. 

Yarriba  on  the  west,  and  Nyffe  on  the  east  side  of  the  Ni- 
ger, occupy  the  banks  of  that  stream  below  Borgoo.  The  former 
is  an  extensive  state,  well  cultivated  and  densely  peopled.  The 
loom  is  busily  plied,  though  its  products  are  not  equal  to  those  in 
the  neighbouring  country  of  Nyffe.  Eyeo,  the  metropolis  of  Yar- 
riba, is  15  miles  in  circumference:  the  population,  however,  can 
scarcely  even  be  conjectured. 

Nvffe,  now  in  possession  of  the  Fellatas,  is  a  very  fine  coun- 
try, occupied  by  the  most  industrious  and  improved  of  all  the  ne- 
gro nations.  Their  cotton  cloths  are  held  in  the  highest  estimation. 
Rabba,  the  capital,  is  considered  one  of  the  largest  towns  in  this 


CENTRAL  AFRICA.  573 

quarter.  The  mats  made  there  are  reckoned  superior  to  all  others 
in  Africa.  Egga,  the  southernmost  town  of  Nyfle,  extends  four 
miles  along  the  banks  of  the  Niger,  and  has  numerous  boats  be- 
longing to  it.     The  population  is  half  Mahomedan,  half  Pagan. 

The  states  which  extend  down  the  river  from  Nyfle  consist  of 
little  more  than  single  towns,  each  governed  by  its  own  chief,  with 
little  or  no  mutual  dependence.  Kacunda,  under  the  absolute 
sway  of  a  single  chief,  contains  a  peaceable,  industrious,  and 
friendly  people.  About  forty  miles  below  Kacunda,  the  Niger  re- 
ceives its  greatest  tributary,  the  Tsadda  :  coming  from  the  east,  its 
origin  and  early  course  are,  however,  unknown.  At  the  junction, 
it  is  little  inferior  to  the  main  stream,  and  is  navigated  by  nume- 
rous boats.  To  this  point,  the  Niger  was  ascended,  a  few  years 
ago,  by  the  steam-vessels  Quorra  and  Alburka.  Funda,  reported 
the  greatest  emporium  of  this  part  of  Africa,  is  about  three  days' 
sail  up  the  Tsadda. 

Towns  of  some  importance  continue  to  occur  in  the  course  of 
the  Niger  downwards.  Bocqua,  about  80  miles  below  Kacunda, 
is  the  seat  of  a  very  large  market,  much  frequented :  it  is  followed 
by  Abbazaca  and  Dammagoo.  Kirre,  a  large  trading  town,  is 
about  50  miles  below  Bocqua.  Here  commences  the  Delta  of  the 
Niger,  which  at  this  place  detaches  a  branch  supposed  to  flow  to 
Benin.  Seventy  miles  below  Kirre  is  a  large  town  situated  in  the 
midst  of  a  territory  called  the  Eboe  country :  it  forms  the  great 
mart  from  which  the  ports  on  the  coast  are  supplied  with  slaves 
and  palm-oil. 

Bornou  is  one  of  the  most  important  states  in  Central  Africa  ; 
it  extends  about  200  miles  in  every  direction  to  the  westward  of 
lake  Tchad.  The  people,  called  Kanowry,  are  negroes  :  they  are 
quiet  and  peaceable,  but  are  very  deficient  in  many  respects,  and 
even  in  some  of  the  humblest  of  the  useful  arts.  The  only  fabric 
in  which  they  have  attained  any  kind  of  excellence  is  that  of  cot- 
ton cloth  dyed  blue  with  their  fine  indigo,  pieces  of  which  form 
the  current  coin  of  the  realm.  They  have,  however,  the  absolute 
necessaries  of  life  in  abundance.  Numerous  herds  of  cattle  are 
bred  by  Arabs,  called  Shouas,  who  have  transported  into  Bornou 
all  their  pastoral  habits. 

The  government  of  this  state  is'absolute  ;  but  when  the  English 
travellers,  Denham  and  Clapperton,  some  time  since,  visited  the 
country,  they  found  it  in  a  singular  political  situation.  The  Sheik 
El  Kanemy,  who  by  his  valour  had  rescued  the  kingdom  from 
Fellata  invasion,  possessed  all  the  real  authority,  which  he  exer- 
cised with  justice  and  vigour ;  but  he  found  it  prudent  to  confer 
the  ostensible  dignity  of  sultan  on  a  member  of  the  ancient  royal 
family,  who  lived  in  empty  pomp  at  New  Bornou.     There  is  pro- 

3P  769 


574  AFRICA. 

bably  no  court  of  which  the  taste  is  so  absurd  or  preposterous. 
The  primary  requisite  for  a  fine  gentleman  and  a  courtier  is  a 
huge  stomach  ;  and  where  feeding  and  cramming  will  not  produce 
this  beauty  in  sufficient  perfection,  the  part  is  swelled  out  by  stuff- 
ing and  cushioning. 

The  towns  of  Bornou  are  considerable,  though  not  of  the  first 
magnitude,  and  are  all  inclosed  by  high  walls.  New  Bornou,  the 
present  residence  of 'the  sultan,  contains  about  10,000  people,  and 
Kouka,  where  the  sheik  kept  his  court,  is  still  smaller.  Angornou 
contains  a  population  of  30,000,  and  during  the  crowded  market 
held  there,  often  from  80,000  to  100,000  people  are  assembled. 
All  these  are  in  the  heart  of  the  kingdom,  on  the  western  bank 
of  the  Tchad.  Angala,  on  the  southern  or  Begharmi  frontier,  and 
Woodie  on  that  of  Kanem,  are  also  considerable  :  at  the  latter,  the 
caravans  are  made  to  stop  till  permission  to  proceed  is  obtained 
from  the  sovereign. 

Kanem,  situated  on  the  north-east  shores  of  Lake  Tchad,  is  a 
rude  district  belonging  to  Bornou,  partaking  somewhat  of  the  cha- 
racter of  the  bordering  desert ;  but  its  inhabitants  are  peculiarly 
brave,  and  compose  the  most  efficient  soldiers  in  the  country. 
Lari,  the  chief  town,  consists  of  clusters  of  rush  huts,  in  the  shape 
of  well-thatched  corn-stacks. 

Loggun,  a  district  on  the  Shary  river,  about  40  miles  south  of 
Lake  Tchad,  is  noted  for  the  industry  of  its  inhabitants:  they 
weave  cloths  superior  to  any  of  their  neighbours,  and  have  money 
made  of  iron  in  the  shape  of  a  horse-shoe.  The  women  are  de- 
scribed as  the  most  handsome  and  lively  of  the  negro  race. 
Loggun,  the  capital,  is  a  town  of  some  extent,  with  wide  streets. 

Begharmi,  a  considerable  country  lying  to  the  south-east  of 
Lake  Tchad,  is  known  to  the  civilized  world  only  by  report.  The 
people  wage  almost  continual  war  with  Bornou.  Their  chief 
force  consists  in  mounted  lancers,  which,  with  their  horses,  are 
cased  still  more  completely  in  iron  mail  than  those  of  Bornou  ;  but 
they  do  not  in  the  field  display  any  higher  degree  of  courage. 

Mandara,  situated  to  the  south  of  Bornou,  comprises  a  fine 
fertile  valley,  containing  eight  large  towns,  the  principal  of  which 
is  Mora.  The  whole  country,  and  even  the  capital,  is  bounded 
on  the  south  by  a  range  of  high  mountains,  which  are  occupied 
by  a  rude  pagan  race  called  El  Fellati,  who  have  their  villages 
strongly  fortified,  and  fight  desperately  with  poisoned  arrows,  by 
which  they  once  put  to  flight  the  whole  force  of  Bornou  and  Man- 
dara, though  aided  by  a  numerous  and  well-armed  body  of  Arabs. 
Their  territory,  called  Darkulla,  or  Dirkulla,  appears  to  ex- 
tend south  and  south-east  from  Mandara,  and  is  known  only  from 
report. 


CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


Musicians  and  Musical  Instruments  of  Western  Africa. 


All  the  negro  nations  are  noted  for  their  attachment  to  music,  but  this  circumstance  has  not 
led  to  any  refinement  in  the  art.  Their  instruments  are  of  the  rudest  kind,  some  of  which 
produce  the  most  horrid  dissonnance.  The  most  simple  of  them  are  used  to  accompany  thj 
traditionary  songs  and  poems,  the  recitation  of  which  is  listened  to  with  delight. 


Ashantee  Chief  in  lull  dress.  Horseman  of  Begharmi  clad  in  a  species  of  armour. 


Bosbuana  Warrior. 


Boshuana  Queen. 


Spearman  of  Bornou. 
771 


AFRICA. 


When  visited  by  Messrs.  Denham  and  Clapperton,  the  Sultan  of  Bornou  was  found  sitting  by 
himself  in  a  kind  of  cage  or  crib,  and  surrounded  by  a  number  of  courtiers ;  the  latter  had 
Hiugo  turbans  on  their  heads,  and  were  enveloped,  when  the  person  was  not  sufficiently  bulky, 
with  ten  or  twelve  robes,  for  the  purpose  of  producing  the  appearance  of  great  size,  that 
requisite  being  a  mark  of  quality  in  Bornou. 


ri&, 


View  of  Mora,  the  Capital  of  Mandara,  a  country  lying  to  the  southward  of  Bornou. 
Mora  is  a  considerable  town,  situated  in  a  tine  valley  anions  the  Mandara  mountains.     The 
fmurcs  seen  in  front  of  the  picture  represent  the  Arab  party,  with  whom  Major  Denham  visited 
the  place,  and  who  arc  saluting  the  town  with  a  discharge  of  musketry. 


AFRICAN   ISLANDS.  575 

AFRICAN  ISLANDS. 

Africa  is  surrounded,  at  various  distances,  with  numerous 
islands  and  groups  of  islands,  situated,  some  in  the  Atlantic,  and 
others  in  the  Indian  Ocean.  Most  of  these  are  populous,  fertile, 
and  productive  in  a  variety  of  valuable  commodities ;  and  some 
of  them  present  grand,  imposing,  and  often  beautiful  features. 

The  Azores,  or  Western  Islands,  belong  to  Portugal :  they 
are  situated  in  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  from  1000  to  1200  miles  west- 
ward from  the  southern  part  of  that  kingdom.  These  islands  are 
nine  in  number:  St.  Michael,  St.  Mary,  Terceira,  Fayal,  Pico, 
Graciosa,  St.  George,  Corvo,  and  Flores.  They  all  bear  evident 
marks  of  having  been  produced  by  the  action  of  subterraneous 
fire,  the  symptoms  of  which  are  still  visible,  though  no  volcano  is 
at  present  burning. 

The  soil  is  extremely  fertile,  yielding,  where  cultivated,  abun- 
dance of  grain ;  while  even  from  the  crevices  of  the  volcanic 
rocks  grow  the  delicate  oranges  for  which  St.  Michael  is  cele- 
brated ;  and  the  wines  which  cover  the  steep  sides  of  the  mountain 
of  Pico  yield  the  wine  called  Fayal.  These,  with  other  products, 
afford  ample  materials  for  an  export  trade,  in  exchange  for  Euro- 
pean fabrics  and  colonial  produce.  The  population  of  the  Azores 
is  estimated  at  250,000. 

Though  St.  Michael  is  the  largest  island,  being  above  50  miles 
in  length,  and  is  also  the  most  fertile,  yet  its  capital,  Ponte  Del- 
gada,  is  not  the  seat  of  government.  This  distinction  is  enjoyed 
by  Angra,  in  Terceira,  in  consequence  of  its  comparatively  safe 
harbour.     The  inhabitants  of  this  place  amount  to  11,000. 

Madeira,  also,  belongs  to  Portugal.  It  lies  about  600  miles 
south-west  from  that  country,  and  contains  100,000  inhabitants. 
It  is  a  beautiful  and  fertile  island,  and  noted  for  its  wine.  The 
growth  of  the  island  is  about  20,000  pipes,  of  which  a  consider- 
able quantity  is  sent  to  England,  America,  and  the  East  and  West 
Indies.  The  wine  trade  of  Madeira  has  lately  somewhat  declined  ; 
in  consequence  of  which,  coffee  is  planted  to  some  extent,  and  has 
become  an  article  of  export. 

Funchal,  the  capital,  is  almost  an  English  town,  nearly  all  the 
opulent  inhabitants  being  merchants  of  that  nation,  employed  in 
the  wine  trade,  while  the  Portuguese  are  generally  very  poor. 
Population,  20,000.  Madeira  has,  adjacent  to  it,  Porto  Santo,  a 
small  high  island,  with  a  good  roadstead. 

The  Canary  Islands  are  among  the  most  celebrated  and, 
beautiful  groups  in  the  world.     They  belong  to  Spain,  and  lie 

3  P  *  773 


576  AFRICA. 

about  1000  miles  south-west  from  that  country,  and  from  200  to 
400  west  from  Morocco.  There  are  thirteen  islands  altogether ; 
but  seven  only  are  of  any  note.  The  population  of  the  Canaries 
is  estimated  at  200,000. 

The  principal  islands  are  Teneriffe,  Grand  Canary,  Palma, 
Lanzarota,  Fortaventura,  Gomera,  and  Ferro.  They  consist  of 
high  mountains,  which  rise  abruptly  from  the  shore  to  a  great 
height.  Of  these,  the  Peak  of  Teneriffe,  a  great  land-mark  to 
mariners,  is  12,000  feet  high.  The  soil  in  these  islands  displays 
much  of  that  luxuriant  fertility  which  distinguishes  tropical  coun- 
tries :  the  principal  produce  is  wine,  which,  though  inferior  to 
Madeira,  has,  from  its  cheapness,  come  into  considerable  use.  The 
export  is  estimated  at  8000  or  9000  pipes :  there  is  also  some 
trade  in  brandy,  soda,  and  archil. 

The  chief  seat  of  this  commerce  is  Santa  Cruz,  in  Teneriffe, 
which  enjoys  the  advantage  of  an  excellent  roadstead.  It  is  also 
the  capital  of  the  Canaries,  and  contains  8000  inhabitants ;  but 
Orotava  is  the  largest  town:  population,  11,000.  Grand  Canary 
is  the  most  fertile,  and  supplies  the  other  islands  with  grain.  Las 
Palmas,  its  chief  town,  is  the  ecclesiastical  capital  of  the  islands. 
Ferro,  a  small,  arid,  and  rocky  island,  was  once  supposed  to  form 
the  most  westerly  point  of  the  Old  World,  and  has  often  been  used 
by  geographers  as  the  first  meridian. 

The  Canarians  are  a  sober,  active,  and  industrious  people,  many 
of  whom  have  migrated  to  the  Spanish  dominions  in  America  and 
the  Indies,  and  there  form  the  most  useful  part  of  the  population. 

The  Cape  Verde  Islands,  situated  about  400  miles  west 
from  Cape  Verde,  are  ten  in  number ;  St.  Jago,  St.  Antonio,  St. 
.Nicholas,  Mayo,  Bonavista,  Sal,  St.  Vincent,  St.  Lucia,  Brava, 
and  Fogo.  The  three  first  islands  rise  in  the  interior  into  high 
mountains ;  and  Fogo  (fire)  contains  a  very  active  volcano.  In 
general  the  surface  is  arid,  rocky,  and  much  less  productive  than 
the  Canaries.  Long  droughts  sometimes  prevail,  and  reduce  the 
inhabitants  to  great  distress.  Out  of  a  population  of  88,000,  one- 
iburth  are  said  to  have  died  of  famine  in  1831. 

The  chief  growth  of  these  islands  is  cotton.  A  very  fine  breed 
of  mules  and  asses  is  reared,  many  of  which  are  sent  to  the  West 
Indies.  Goats,  poultry,  and  turtle  abound.  Salt  is  formed  in  large 
quantities  by  natural  evaporation.  The  Portuguese,  since  the  first 
discovery,  have  claimed  the  sovereignty  of  these  islands,  and 
maintain  a  governor-general,  who  resides  at  Porto  Praya. 

Several  small  islands  lie  in  the  Gulf  of  Guinea :  of  these,  Fer- 
nando Po,  the  largest,  is  but  a  short  distance  from  the  mouth  of 
the  Niger.  The  British  government  formed,  in  1827,  a  settlement 
on  this  island  ;  but,  in  consequence  of  the  unhealthfulness  of  the 


AFRICAN   ISLANDS.  577 

climate,  the  garrison  and  settlers  have  been  removed.  Prince's 
Island  is  high  and  thickly  wooded.  St.  Thomas  is  well  watered 
and  fertile  ;  and  Annobon  is  inhabited  by  a  simple  native  race. 
These  three  islands  run  in  a  chain  to  the  south-west  from  Fer- 
nando Po,  and  are  subject  to  the  crown  of  Portugal. 

Ascension  is  an  island,  60  miles  in  circuit,  situated  about  1000 
miles  due  south  from  Liberia.  It  is  rocky  and  barren,  and  was, 
until  lately,  uninhabited.  It  is  now  garrisoned  by  British  troops, 
who  have  erected  a  fort,  built  houses,  and  constructed  a  large  tank 
for  holding  water ;  some  cultivation  has  likewise  been  successfully 
commenced.  In  a  crevice  of  a  rock,  letters  for  passing  vessels 
were  formerly  deposited,  hence  called  the  Sea  Post-Office.  This 
island  has  been  long  famous  for  its  turtle ;  as  many  as  2500  have 
been  caught  in  a  year,  some  of  which  weighed  from  600  to  800 
pounds.     Population,  230. 

St.  Helena,  so  celebrated  as  the  ocean-prison  of  the  greatest 
of  modern  warriors,  is  an  island,  28  miles  in  circumference,  situ- 
ated 1200  miles  west  from  the  coast  of  Africa.  It  rises  like  an 
immense  castle  out  of  the  sea  to  the  height  of  from  600  to  1200 
feet :  it  is  strongly  fortified,  and  contains  about  3000  inhabitants. 
Longwood,  on  the  east  side  of  the  island,  was  the  residence  of  the 
Emperor  Napoleon,  from  1815,  until  the  time  of  his  death,  1821. 
His  remains  were  conveyed  to  France  in  1840. 

There  are  only  four  small  openings  in  the  wall  of  the  rock  com- 
posing the  island,  on  the  largest  of  which,  where  alone  a  small 
extent  of  beach  appears,  has  been  built  James  Town.  Here  the 
governor  resides  ;  and  refreshments,  though  on  a  limited  scale,  are 
provided  for  ships.  St.  Helena  belonged  to  the  East  India  Com- 
pany, but  in  1830  it  was  vested  in  the  crown  of  Great  Britain. 

The  Ethiopian  Archipelago  is  a  collection  of  islands,  situ- 
ated on  the  east  side  of  Africa,  and  southward  of  the  equator.  It 
includes  the  island  of  Madagascar,  with  the  Mascarenha,  Comoro, 
Seychelle,  and  Almirante  groups,  and  also  some  detached  islands. 

Madagascar  is  one  of  the  largest  and  finest  islands  in  the 
world ;  it  is  separated  from  the  eastern  coast  of  Africa  by  the 
channel  of  Mozambique,  and  is  about  1000  miles  long  and  220 
in  its  greatest  breadth.  The  interior  is  traversed  from  north  to 
south  by  a  chain  of  lofty  mountains,  from  whose  rugged  sides  de- 
scend numerous  streams  which  water  the  fertile  plains  at  their 
base  :  these  are  extremely  fruitful  in  rice,  sugar-cane,  Indian-corn, 
manioc-root,  bread-fruit,  pine-apple,  &c. ;  fitted,  indeed,  for  almost 
every  tropical  product.  The  mountains  contain  valuable  mines, 
especially  of  iron ;  but  are  only  partially  worked. 

This  island  contains  many  fine  bays  and  ports,  well  suited  for 
49  773 


578  AFRICA. 

commercial  purposes.  Those  most  frequented  are  Anton  Gils 
Bay,  Foul  Point,  Tamatave,  Port  Dauphin,  and  Bombetok.  On 
the  latter  are  the  towns  of  Bombetok  and  Majunga.  The  trade, 
here,  was  formerly  in  slaves;  but  is  now  in  bullocks,  bees'-wax, 
rice,  and  gums.  American  vessels  often  visit  this  place.  The 
population  of  Madagascar  is  probably  about  2,000,000. 

The  inhabitants  cultivate  the  ground  and  practise  some  arts ; 
they  are,  however,  rather  rude  and  barbarous,  and  some  of  them 
are  notorious  pirates  who  ravage  and  plunder  the  adjacent  islands. 
They  are  divided  into  a  number  of  small  tribes,  who  wage  fre- 
quent wars  with  each  other. 

Imeeina,  the  kingdom  of  the  Ovahs,  was  recently  the  most 
important  state  in  Madagascar.  The  late  sovereign,  Radama,  had 
reduced  to  subjection  the  largest  and  finest  part  of  the  island  :  he 
had  formed  a  train  of  artillery ;  armed  part  of  his  troops  with 
muskets  ;  and  had  also  sent  a  number  of  young  natives  to  obtain 
instruction  in  Paris  and  London.  With  the  aid  of  the  missionaries, 
he  had  established  a  printing-press,  and  trained  a  number  of 
teachers,  who  were  settled  in  various  parts  of  the  kingdom. 

Unhappily,  this  prince,  in  July,  1828,  was  poisoned  by  his  wife> 
who  immediately  raised  an  unworthy  paramour  to  the  throne. 
This  event  has  introduced  great  anarchy  and  confusion,  and  ar- 
rested entirely  the  career  of  improvement  commenced  under  such 
prosperous  auspices.  The  converts  to  Christianity  have  been 
much  persecuted ;  and  some  of  them  have  sealed  their  devotion 
to  the  cause  of  the  Redeemer  with  their  blood. 

Tananarivou,  the  capital  of  Imerina,  is  situated  some  distance 
from  the  west  coast  of  the  island,  and  is  built  on  a  high  table-land, 
7000  or  8000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea :  population,  8000. 

The  Mascarenha,  or  the  Islands  of  Bourbon  and  Mauritius, 
lie  due  east  from  Madagascar.  These  are  well  settled,  fertile,  and 
valuable  islands,  and  were  both  discovered  by  Mascarenha,  a  Por- 
tuguese navigator,  in  1592. 

Bourbon,  situated  470  miles  east  from  Madagascar,  belongs  to 
France.  It  is  about  150  miles  in  circumference,  and  consists  en- 
tirely of  the  heights  and  slopes  of  two  great  mountains,  the  most 
southerly  of  which  contains  a  volcano  in  perpetual  activity.  A 
great  part  of  the  surface  of  the  island  consists  of  what  is  called 
burnt  country,  a  complete  desert  of  hard,  black  soil,  with  numerous 
holes  and  crevices.  The  rest,  however,  is  well  watered  by  nume- 
rous torrents,  and  is  highly  favourable  for  the  growth  of  all  the 
chief  tropical  productions. 

After  being  in  possession  of  the  French  almost  170  years, 
Bourbon  was  captured  by  the  British    in  1810,  but  restored  to 


AFRICAN    ISLANDS.  579 

that  power  in  1814.  Coffee  and  cloves  have  been  long  culti- 
vated ;  but  sugar  is  now  the  chief  product.  The  island  contains 
97,000  inhabitants,  of  whom  16,000  are  whites.  St.  Denis,  the 
chief  town,  contains  a  population  of  8000.  Bourbon  has  no  good 
harbour,  and  its  commerce  is  carried  on  principally  through  the 
ports  of  the  neighbouring  island. 

Mauritius,  or  the  Isle  of  France,  lies  about  130  miles 
north-east  of  Bourbon:  it  is  not  quite  so  large,  yet  is  still  110 
miles  in  circuit.  The  rugged  mountains  which  cover  a  great  part 
of  the  island  give  it  a  somewhat  sterile  character ;  yet  the  lower 
slopes  produce  coffee,  cotton,  indigo,  and  sugar,  of  improved 
quality.  The  island  is  famous  for  its  ebony,  which  is  superior 
to  any  other  in  the  world.  It  does  not  yield  grain  sufficient  to 
supply  the  inhabitants ;  but  depends  upon  the  island  of  Bourbon 
for  that  article. 

This  island,  long  the  capital  of  the  French  possessions  in  the 
Indian  Seas,  was  so  strongly  fortified  as  to  be  considered  impreg- 
nable. It  was  taken  by  the  British  in  1810,  and  now  belongs  to 
that  nation.  The  island  contains  95,000  inhabitants,  of  whom  only 
12,000  are  whites.  The  negro  population,  lately  slaves,  were 
emancipated  by  the  Act  of  Parliament  abolishing  slavery  in  the 
British  empire.  The  white  inhabitants  are  mostly  descendants  of 
noble  French  families,  and  are  remarkable  for  their  polished  man- 
ners.    Port  Louis  and  Port  Bourbon  are  the  principal  harbours. 

The  Seychelles,  nearly  north  from  Madagascar,  with  the 
bordering  group  of  the  Almirantes,  have  been  subject  to  Great 
Britain  since  1794 :  they  are  a  cluster  of  very  small  islands,  high 
and  rocky,  and  are  but  little  fitted  for  any  culture  except  cotton  ; 
they  abound,  however,  with  cocoa-nuts,  and  their  shores  with 
turtle  and  excellent  fish.  The  inhabitants  are  estimated  at  7000, 
nearly  all  of  whom  are  negroes,  lately  emancipated. 

The  Comoro  Islands,  situated  between  Madagascar  and  the 
continent,  are  very  elevated  and  mountainous  in  the  interior ;  but 
the  lower  tracts  abound  in  sheep,  cattle,  and  all  the  tropical  grains 
and  fruits.  The  inhabitants  are  mild  and  industrious,  but  they 
have  been  most  dreadfully  infested,  and  their  numbers  thinned  by 
the  Madagascar  pirates,  who  make  an  annual  inroad,  laying  waste 
the  open  country,  and  blockading  the  towns.  Angazicha,  or  Great 
Comoro,  is  the  largest  island,  containing  a  mountain  supposed  to 
rise  6000  or  7000  feet  high ;  but  Anjouan,  or  Johanna,  is  the 
most  flourishing :  its  chief  town  still  contains  3000  inhabitants. 
Mohilla  and  Mayotta  are  comparatively  small. 

Pemba,  Zanzibar,  and  Monfia,  which  lie  parallel  to,  and  dis- 
tant twenty  or  thirty  miles  from,  the  coast  of  Zanguebar,  are  small, 


580  OCEANICA. 

but  fertile  islands,  partly  independent,  and  partly  subject  to  the 
Imam  of  Muscat.  The  town  of  Zanzibar,  on  the  island  of  the 
same  name,  is  said  to  contain  10,000  inhabitants.  American 
vessels  trade  to  this  place,  and  an  American  consul  resides  here. 

Socotra,  150  miles  east  from  Cape  Guardafui,  belongs  to  the 
sheik  of  Keshin,  a  petty  sovei'eign  on  the  coast  of  Arabia,  who 
sends  one  of  his  family  annually  to  collect  the  revenue.  It  is 
mountainous,  rocky,  and  arid ;  and  yields  the  best  aloes  in  the 
world ;  also,  some  of  that  peculiar  resinous  substance  called  dra- 
gon's-blood. This  island  was  lately  selected  by  the  East  India 
Company,  as  a  station  connected  with  the  steam  navigation  of  the 
Red  Sea ;  but,  being  found  unhealthy,  has  been  abandoned. 


OCEANICA. 

Oceanica  is  the  name  adopted  to  designate  the  numerous 
islands  and  groups  of  islands,  situated  partly  to  the  south  of  Asia 
and  partly  in  the  Pacific  Ocean,  between  Asia  and  America.  It 
stretches  over  90  degrees  of  latitude,  40  degrees  north,  and  50  de- 
grees south;  and  160  degrees  of  longitude,  88  degrees  east,  and 
62  degrees  west;  extending  from  north  to  south  6210  miles,  from 
east  to  west  11,010  miles,  and  comprehending  almost  a  third  part 
of  the  entire  surface  of  the  globe. 

The  Portuguese  were  the  earliest  Europeans  who  investigated 
any  portion  of  Oceanica ;  which  they  did  from  the  West,  proceed- 
ing from  the  shores  of  India,  sometime  after  they  had  become  ac- 
quainted with  the  route  to  that  section  of  Asia.  Magellan,  the  first 
circumnavigator,  sailed  from  Spain  in  1519.  Passing  through  the 
Straits  which  bear  his  name,  he  advanced  fearlessly  from  south- 
east to  north-west,  across  the  vast  expanse  of  the  unknown  Pacific, 
and,  by  his  boldness  and  success,  opened  the  way  for  subsequent 
discoveries.  Three  hundred  years  elapsed  before  all  the  islands 
which  now  pass  under  the  name  of  Oceanica,  were  known  to 
civilized  society. 

After  Magellan,  the  Spanish  navigators  continued  to  explore  the 
Pacific  Ocean,  particularly  Alvaro  de  Mendana,  who,  in  the  last 
part  of  the  sixteenth  century,  discovered  the  Solomon  Islands  and 
the  Marquesas ;  afterwards,  Fernandez  dc  Quiros,  who  had  ac- 
companied him  on  his  third  voyage,  made  known  to  the  world  the 
Society  Islands  and  the  New  Hebrides.  In  the  seventeenth  cen- 
tury, the  Dutch  began  to  explore  this  part  of  the  world  ;  and,  be- 
sides several  small  islands,  discovered  Australia,  or  New  Holland, 
which  received  its  name  from  them. 


OCEANICA.  581 

Tasman,  a  Dutchman,  and  Dampier,  an  Englishman,  continued 
these  discoveries.  In  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century,  the 
British  navigators,  Byron,  Wallis,  and  Carteret,  and  the  French 
Bougainville,  exerted  themselves  to  extend  the  knowledge  of 
Oceanica.  But  Captain  James  Cook,  who  circumnavigated  the 
world  from  1768  to  1779,  contributed  most  to  our  knowledge 
with  regard  to  the  islands  already  known,  re-discovered  some  be- 
fore seen,  and  was  the  original  discoverer  of  New  Caledonia  and 
the  Sandwich  Islands.  After  the  time  of  Cook,  both  the  French 
and  English  exerted  themselves  to  give  mankind  a  better  acquaint- 
ance with  Oceanica.  Among  the  later  navigators,  Vancouver, 
Entrecasteaux,  La  Perouse,  Baudin,  Flinders,  Krusenstern,  Kotze- 
bue,  and  Beechey,  all  added  to  our  knowledge  of  this  region. 

A  few  of  these  islands  are  of  such  magnitude,  as  to  approach 
the  character  of  continents  ;  while  others  can  scarcely  aspire  above 
the  diminutive  appellation  of  islets.  Nearly  all  the  large  islands 
appear  to  be  mountainous ;  and  some  contain  active  volcanoes, 
which  occasionally  cause  dreadful  ravages.  The  volcano  of 
Gilolo  broke  out  in  1673  with  a  violence  which  made  the  whole 
of  the  Moluccas  shake.  The  ashes  were  carried  as  far  as  Magin- 
danao,  and  the  scoria  and  the  pumice-stones,  floating  on  the  sea, 
seemed  to  retard  the  progress  of  the  vessels.  Several  volcanoes 
are  in  constant  activity  in  the  Sandwich  and  Friendly  Islands, 
also  in  the  New  Hebrides,  Celebes,  Borneo,  Sumbawa,  &c. 

The  formation  of  many  of  the  islands  of  Oceanica,  particularly 
in  Polynesia,  is  attributed  to  the  operation  of  the  minute  coral 
insect.  All  the  low  islands  seem  to  have  for  their  base  a  reef  of 
coral  rocks,  generally  disposed  in  a  circular  form.  They  are,  no 
doubt,  raised  from  the  depths  of  the  ocean  by  successive  layers  of 
coral  rock,  or  carried  to  their  present  height  by  accumulations  of 
the  same  material,  on  the  original  rocks  at  the  bottom  of  the  sea. 
Numbers  of  these  low  islands  are  inhabited,  and  covered  with 
groves  of  cocoa-nut,  and  other  trees,  while  some  are  quite  destitute 
of  trees,  and  without  inhabitants. 

The  coral  rocks  and  islands  are  seen  in  all  stages  of  their  form- 
ation, some  in  deep  water,  others  just  appearing  above  the  surface, 
some  already  elevated  above  the  sea,  but  destitute  of  vegetation, 
others  with  a  few  weeds  on  the  higher  parts,  and  some  again 
covered  with  large  timber. 

Many  of  the  islands  of  this  quarter  are  extensive  countries  ; 
and  one  of  them  is  nearly  equal  in  area  to  Europe.  The  whole 
of  their  land  surface  is  estimated  at  from  4,500,000  to  5,000,000 
square  miles,  and  the  population  at  from  15,000,000  to  20,000,000. 
The  great  divisions  of  this  region  are  Malaysia,  Australasia,  and 
Polynesia. 

49*  779 


582  OCEANICA. 


MALAYSIA. 

Malaysia,  called  also  the  East  Indian  Archipelago,  comprises 
those  numerous  islands,  lying  immediately  southward  and  south- 
eastward from  the  southern  part  of  Asia.  The  name  of  this  region 
is  derived  from  the  Malays,  who  are  the  principal  and  predominant 
race.  The  islands  are  Sumatra,  Java,  and  Borneo,  usually  called  the 
Sunda  Isles,  together  with  Celebes,  the  Moluccas,  or  Spice  Islands, 
and  the  Philippines,  besides  other  smaller  groups  and  islands. 

Malaysia  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Malayan  Sea  and  the 
Bay  of  Bengal,  south  by  Australasia,  east  by  Polynesia,  and  west 
by  the  Indian  Ocean  and  Chinese  Sea.  The  population  of  the 
whole  of  the  islands  is,  probably,  about  15,500,000,  of  which 
Sumatra  contains  4,000,000;  Java  4,000,000;  Borneo  3,000,000; 
the  Philippine  Islands  2,500,000 ;  Celebes  and  its  appendages 
1,000,000;  Bally,  Lombok,  Sooloo,  &c.  500,000,  and  Timor  and 
the  Spice  Islands,  &c,  nearly  500,000. 

Situated  on  both  sides  of  the  equator,  and  in  a  tropical  climate, 
the  islands  of  Malaysia  rank,  as  to  soil  and  productions,  among 
the  most  favoured  regions  on  the  globe,  and  yield  in  great  profu- 
sion, a  variety  of  exquisite  fruits  and  spices.  The  climate  is  that 
of  the  torrid  zone,  and  is,  in  many  places,  very  unhealthful  for 
Europeans  and  Americans.  Violent  hurricanes,  called  typhoons, 
occur  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year ;  and  destructive  earthquakes 
occasionally  take  place  in  gome  quarters. 

Minerals  are  found  to  a  considerable  extent  in  this  region  :  tin 
is  the  most  abundant ;  but  gold,  copper,  iron,  salt,  sulphur,  and 
diamonds  also  abound ;  the  latter  are  met  with  only  in  Borneo. 
One  of  the  largest  known  of  these  gems  belongs  to  the  prince  of 
Matan,  in  that  island  :  it  is  in  a  rough  state,  and  is  estimated  to  be 
worth  nearly  1,500,000  dollars. 

The  rich  soil  of  these  islands  yields  many  of  the  most  import- 
ant articles  of  commerce :  sugar,  coffee,  indigo,  pepper,  cotton, 
and  rice,  with  cinnamon,  cloves,  nutmegs,  camphor,  &c,  are 
among  the  products.  The  fruits  are  various  and  delicious.  The 
mangosteen,  mango,  durion,  and  guava,  are  all  highly  prized. 
The  teak,  sandal-wood,  and  ebony,  many  species  of  palms,  fur- 
nishing dates,  sago,  &c.  and  various  dye  woods,  are  also  common. 

Malaysia  abounds  with  various  animals,  of  which  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  is  the  well-known  orang-outang,  found  in  Borneo, 
Malacca,  &c. ;  he  is  from  three  to  four  and  a-half  feet  in  height, 
and  is  incapable  of  walking  erect  without  a  staff,  or  some  other 
support,  but  seems  particularly  fitted  for  climbing  trees. 

The  pongo,  a  native  of  Sumatra  and  Borneo,  is  supposed  by 


MALAYSIA. 


Rafflesia  Arnolrlii. 

The  Rafflesia  Arnoldii  is  a  parasitical  plant,  without  leaves,  and  with  roots  so  minute,  that 

they  are  embedded  in  the  slender  stem  of  a  species  of  vine,  and  grow  wherever  the  seed  may 

happen  to  alight.    The  flower  which  comprises  the  entire  plant,  when  full  blown,  is  three  and 

a  half  feet  across.    The  hollow  in  the  centre  will  hold  the  capacity  of  fifteen  pints. 


Camphor.  Nutmeg. 

Camphor  is  obtained  from  a  species  of  laurel  that  grows  in  Sumatra  and  Japan.  The  roots 
and  branches  are  cut  into  chips,  and  distilled  within  an  iron  pot,  which  causes  the  camphor  to 
fly  oft',  and  it  becomes  concreted  on  straws,  that  are  placed  in  the  head  of  the  still. 

The  Nutmeg  tree  is  a  native  nf  the  Spice  Islands,  and  bears  blossoms  and  fruit  at  all  seasons 
of  the  year.  The  fruit  is  about  the  size  of  a  peach.  When  ripe,  the  lower  part  opens,  and 
discloses  the  mace,  inside  of  which,  and  in  the  centre  of  the  fruit,  is  the  nutmeg. 


Guava. 

The  Guava,  of  which  there  are  many  species,  is  cultivated  in  all  the  tropical  countries  of  the 

East,  and  of  America,  and  also  in  the  South  of  France.    The  fruit,  which  is  pear  shaped,  and 

about  the  bulk  of  a  hen's  egz,  has  a  sweet  agreeable  flavour,  and  is  considered  very  wholesome  ; 

it  is  eaten  either  in  a  crude  state,  or  in  the  form  of  jellies. 

3ft  781 


OCEANICA. 


Clove.  Mangosteen. 

The  Clove,  so  well  known  for  its  fragrant  odour  and  warm  pungent  taste,  is  the  unexpanded 
tlower-bud  of  a  tree  that  formerly  grew  only  in  the  Moluccas,  but  its  culture  now  extends  to 
the  isles  of  Fiance  and  Bourbon,  as  well  as  to  Guiana  and  the  West  Indies.  The  buds  when 
gathered  from  the  tree  are  merely  dried,  and  are  then  fit  for  use. 

The  Mangosteen  is  said  to  be  the  most  delicious,  and  at  the  same  time  the  most  wholesome, 
of  all  known  fruits.  It  is  about  the  size  of  an  orange,  and  is  divided  internally  into  several 
cells,  each  containing  a  single  seed.  The  tree  is  a  native  of  the  Molucca  islands,  but  is  now 
extensively  cultivated  in  many  parts  of  the  East. 


Mango.  Durion. 

The  Mango  is  a  native  of  India  and  the  adjacent  islands,  but  has  been  introduced  into  the 
West  Indies.  The  fruit  is  generally  kidney-shaped,  and  contains  a  large  flattened  stone.  The 
taste  is  delicious,  slightly  acid,  and  yields  only  to  the  Mangosteen.  More  than  eighty  varieties 
of  the  mango  are  cultivated. 

The  Durion  grows  in  the  Sunda  and  Molucca  Islands.  It  is  a  large,  tender,  and  luscious 
fruit,  in  tnste  something  like  sweetened  cream  ;  the  smell  is  disagreeable,  resembling  rotten 
onions;  but  thoso  who  overcome  their  first  repugnance  generally  become  very  fond  of  it. 
When  eaten  to  excess,  the  durion  often  produces  dangerous  inflammatory  fevers. 

762 


MALAYSIA. 


Nepenthes,  or  Pitcher  Plant.  Coryphaea. 

The  Pitcher  Plant  grows  eighteen  or  twenty  feet  high,  and  with  leaves  nearly  two  feet  long. 
At  the  end  of  each  full-grown  leaf,  there  is  an  appendage  eight  or  nine  inches  in  length,  which 
turns  up,  and  resembles  a  small  elongated  pitcher  ;  on  the  top  of  this  is  a  lid,  attached  as  if  by  a 
hinge,  which  opens  in  the  day-time  and  closes  at  night.  This  curious  leaf  contains  a  liquid 
that  is  secreted  by  the  plant ;  it  is  slightly  acid  to  the  taste,  and  appears  to  attract  and  destroy 
insects,  as  the  inside  of  the  pitcher  at  the  bottom  is  blackened  with  their  dead  bodies. 


Malay  Tapir.  Babyroussa  Hog. 

The  Malay,  or  Indian  Tapir,  inhabits  Sumatra  and  some  of  the  adjacent  islands.  It  is  an 
animal  of  nearly  ttie  first  magnitude,  and  has  been  but  recently  discovered.  In  disposition  it  is 
mild  and  gentle,  and  often  becomes  as  tame  and  familiar  as  a  dog. 

The  Babyroussa  Hog  possesses  much  of  the  habits  and  disposition  of  the  common  hog,  and 
attains  the  bulk  of  the  largest  of  that  variety.  It  is  said  to  swim  well,  and  has  been  known  to 
go  a  considerable  distance  in  passing  from  one  island  to  another.  The  tusks  grow  to  the  length 
of  eleven  or  twelve  inches,  of  a  fine  hard  grain,  like  ivory.  These  animals  are  easily  tamed  ; 
and  their  flesh  is  well  taBted. 


Tusks  of  the  Babyroussa  Hog. 


Tupaia  Tana,  Sumatra. 


783 


OCEANICA. 


Two-coloured  Squirrel.  Chestnut  Tupay. 

The  Two-coloured  Squirrel  of  Java  is  a  peculiar  species  ;  the  colour  ahove  is  brown,  but  the 
fur  on  the  under  part  of  the  body  is  of  a  golden  yellow.  It  is  a  great  favourite  with  the  natives, 
who  keep  many  of  them  in  their  houses. 

The  Chestnut  Tupay  is  a  singular  little  animal,  possessing  all  thj!  tamenesa  and  sprigbtlinesb 
of  the  squirrel.  The  body  is  seven  or  eight  inches  long,  and  the  tail  is  rather  shorter ;  the  back 
and  sides  are  of  a  rusty  brown  colour,  while  the  under  part  of  the  body  is  white.  These 
animals  are  found  wild  in  the  forests  of  Sumatra  and  Malacca,  but  when  taken  young,  are 
easily  domesticated ;  while  in  that  state,  they  go  over  every  part  of  a  house,  and  at  table  par- 
take freely  of  milk  and  vegetables. 


v^y  Head  of  the  Proboscis  Monkey. 

Long-armed  Black  Ape.  Hand  of  the  L.  li.  Ape. 

The  dense  forests  of  the  larger  islands  of  Malaysia  abound  with  apes  and  monkeys  of  various 
kinds,  (he  particular  habits  and  character  of  which  are  very  imperfectly  known.  The  Long- 
armed  Black  Ape  is  upwards  of  three  feet  high,  of  a  strong  muscular  form,  and  throughout  of 
a  jet  black  colour :  it  has  no  tail,  but  its  long  arms  touch  its  feet;  one  of  its  peculiar  character 
istics  lies  in  the  fingers  being  joined  together  at  their  base. 


Head  of  the  Long-snouted  Bat. 


Head  and  Fland  of  the  Tippet  Bat. 
Bats  are  numerous  in  Malaysia,  and,  as  in  all  warm  climates,  continue  in  activity  the  whole 
year.  Some  of  those  animals  are  striking,  from  their  size  and  strange  conformation.  The 
Tippet  Bat  measures  in  extent  of  wing  two  feet,  having  a  head  not  much  unlike  that  of  a  dog. 
The  head  of  another  species,  the  Long  snouted  Bat,  resembles  that  of  a  greyhound.  It  lives 
in  large  societies,  and  feeds  entirely  upon  fruits,  hence  causing  the  most  serious  injury  to 
pluntatioos.  ~g4 


MALAYSIA.  583 

some  naturalists  to  be  the  orang-outang  of  mature  age ;  it  is  six  or 
seven  feet  in  height,  and  is  very  formidable,  from  its  strength  and 
fierceness.  The  long-armed  ape,  or  siamang,  is  found  in  troops 
in  Sumatra ;  they  are  headed  by  a  chief,  who  is  considered  invul- 
nerable by  the  Malays  ;  these  animals  assemble  at  day-break  and 
make  the  woods  resound  with  their  wild  and  peculiar  cry.  In  cap- 
tivity they  are  remarkably  tractable.  The  monkey  tribes  are  nu- 
merous ;  one  of  which,  the  proboscis  monkey,  is  distinguished 
from  all  others  by  having  a  long  projecting  nose,  giving  to  the 
head  of  the  animal  the  appearance  of  a  ludicrous  mask. 

The  Malay  tapir  is  almost  the  size  of  a  buffalo ;  its  fore  and 
hind  parts  are  nearly  black,  while  the  body  has  a  broad  belt  of 
white  extending  round  it,  resembling  a  piece  of  white  linen  thrown 
over  the  animal.  The  Babyroussa  hog,  found  in  Amboyna,  has 
enormous  curled  tusks  growing  out  of  his  mouth. 

The  island  of  Sumatra  contains  several  species  of  tigers,  two 
of  the  rhinoceros,  and  also  elephants,  which  are  numerous,  in  a 
wild  state,  and  have  only,  in  a  few  instances,  been  trained  to  the 
service  of  man ;  a  small  and  handsome  breed  of  horses,  with 
fawn-coloured  and  reddish- white  buffaloes  likewise  abound. 

The  birds  are  of  great  variety  and  beauty,  comprising  superbly 
coloured  birds  of  paradise,  doves  of  beautiful  plumage,  parrots, 
cuckoos,  and  the  magnificent  Argus  pheasant,  the  pride  of  the 
Malaysian  forests.  Crocodiles  are  numerous  in  the  rivers ;  and 
serpents  of  various  species  have  been  discovered,  some  of  which 
are  from  twelve  to  twenty  feet  in  length. 

The  commerce  of  Malaysia  is  extensive,  and  is  carried  on  chiefly 
by  Europeans  and  Chinese.  The  Bucris  and  the  Malays  are  the 
most  active  of  the  native  traders.  The  Chinese,  in  their  unwieldy 
vessels  called  junks,  some  of  which  are  1000  tons  burden,  make 
one  voyage  a  year  to  Batavia,  carrying  tea,  silks,  cotton  goods 
and  China  ware,  receiving  in  return  among  other  articles,  those 
somewhat  fantastic  luxuries,  shark's  fins,  tripang,  and  edible  birds'- 
nests.  The  first  quality  of  the  latter  article  sells  in  China  for  dou- 
ble its  weight  in  silver,  or  upwards  of  30  dollars  per  pound ;  it  is 
considered  the  highest  dainty,  and  is  made  use  of  by  the  most 
wealthy  only. 

American  vessels  trade  to  various  parts  of  Malaysia,  especially 
to  Batavia,  Manilla,  Cheribon,  Samarang,  &c,  and  also  to  the 
west  coast  of  Sumatra,  for  pepper,  where  they  are  sometimes  cap- 
tured by  the  Malays  of  that  island  and  the  crews  murdered.  To 
avenge  these  injuries  and  protect  the  trade,  United  States'  ships  of 
war  have  been  sent  to  this  quarter,  and  have  in  more  than  one 
instance  inflicted  summary  punishment  upon  these  pirates. 

The  inhabitants  of  Malaysia  include  two  races,  the  black  and 

3Q*  785 


584  OCEANICA. 

the  brown.  These  are  entirely  distinct  in  origin,  language  and 
character,  and  are  engaged  in  constant  warfare  with  each  other. 

The  black  race,  called  the  Papuan  or  Oriental  negroes,  are  the 
farthest  removed  from  civilization  of  any  of  the  human  family. 
They  appear  to  be  a  dwarf  variety  of  the  negro  of  Africa,  but  of 
shorter  stature,  never  exceeding  five  feet  in  height.  The  com- 
plexion is  sooty  rather  than  black,  and  the  woolly  hair  grows  in 
small  tufts  with  a  spiral  twist. 

These  savages  are  generally  diffused  through  Borneo,  New 
Guinea,  Australia,  the  New  Hebrides,  &c.  Their  habits  are  not 
much  known,  and  little  is  recorded  of  them  except  the  ferocity 
with  which  they  wage  their  ceaseless  war  against  the  brown  races. 

The  Malay  tribes  who  inhabit  the  islands  of  this  region  are 
found  also  in  New  Zealand,  and  over  nearly  the  whole  of  Polyne- 
sia. They  exist  in  different  stages  of  civilization,  and  vary  in  their 
character  from  great  ferocity  to  comparative  mildness.  These 
people  are  generally  short  in  stature :  the  chiefs,  however,  and  the 
superior  ranks,  in  many  of  the  islands,  are  tall  and  robust. 

The  Malays  of  Sumatra,  Java,  Borneo,  &c,  are  the  same  peo- 
ple as  the  inhabitants  of  Malacca,  on  the  continent.  They  are 
generally  Mahomedans,  much  addicted  to  piracy ;  in  their  disposi- 
tion daring,  ferocious  and  vindictive.  Amongst  them  gambling 
and  games  of  hazard  are  pursued  with  an  intense  degree  of  passion. 

Every  man  goes  armed  with  a  kris,  or  dagger,  which  he  regards 
as  the  instrument  both  of  defending  himself  and  redressing  his 
wrongs.  The  right  of  private  revenge  is  claimed  by  every  indi- 
vidual for  injuries  received  either  by  himself,  his  family,  or  tribe. 
When  circumstances  deprive  him  of  any  hope  of  avenging  himself 
with  ease  and  safety,  he  has  recourse  to  that  dreadful  outrage  pe- 
culiar to  these  islands,  termed  running  a  muck.  The  individual 
under  this  impulse,  being  also  generally  infuriated  "with  opium, 
draws  his  dagger,  and  runs  into  the  street,  stabbing  without  distinc- 
tion every  one  he  meets,  till  he  himself  is  killed  or  taken. 

Sumatra,  the  largest  of  the  Sunda  islands,  is  separated  by  a 
narrow  strait  from  the  peninsula  of  Malacca.  It  is  about  1000 
miles  long,  and  is  intersected  by  the  equator.  A  chain  of  lofty 
mountains,  one  of  which  is  14,160  feet  high,  extends  through  its 
whole  length  ;  but  the  coasts  are  low,  marshy,  and  insalubrious. 

Black  pepper  is  the  principal  staple,  which  is  raised  and  export- 
ed in  large  quantities :  the  other  productions  are  cinnamon,  cam- 
phor, sago,  rice,  coffee,  and  various  fruits.  The  American  trade 
with  Sumatra  is  chiefly  for  pepper,  of  which,  about  2,500,000 
pounds  is  imported  annually  into  the  United  States:  it  is  carried 
on  for  the  most  part  along  the  west  coast  of  the  island,  at  Muckee, 
Sinkel,  Quallo  Battoo,  and  other  ports. 


MALAYSIA. 


Slender  Loris. 


Tailless  Fowl. 


Crested  Wagtail. 


Green  Fruit-Eater. 


Great-billed  Toddy. 


Six-shafted  Bird  of  Paradise. 


Locust  of  Amboyna. 


787 


OCEANICA. 


King-bird  of  Paradise. 


Yellow-billed  Cuckoo. 


Malays  capturing  a  European  Vessel. 
The  Malays  are  notorious  pirates,  being  perpetually  engaged  in  plundering  the  neighbouring 
nations.    When  they  find  the  crews  of  European  or  American  vessels  off  their  guard,  they  will 
attack  and  capture  them,  generally  murdering  all  who  fall  into  their  hands. 


Javanese  Court  Dress. 


^^^m^ 


Javanese  Common  Dress. 


783 


MALAYSIA.  585 

The  country  is  divided  into  several  small  kingdoms.  In  the 
north  part  of  the  island  is  Acheen ;  in  the  east  Siak ;  and  to  the 
south  Palembang  and  Lampong.  The  native  governments  are 
generally  hereditary  despotisms.  Slavery  is  common  in  this  island ; 
princes  sell  their  subjects,  parents  their  children,  and  creditors  their 
debtors ;  and  a  slave-trade  is  carried  on  from  the  islands  on  the 
west  coast,  with  Acheen  and  other  ports.  The  Dutch  are  also  said 
to  be  actively  engaged  in  it. 

The  interior  of  the  island  is  inhabited  by  several  different  tribes, 
of  whom  the  Battas  are  comparatively  civilized,  yet  practise  can- 
nibalism. They  not  only  devour  their  enemies  in  the  heat  of  vic- 
tory, but  among  them  a  part  of  the  sentence  of  criminals  is  to  be 
put  to  death,  and  afterwards  eaten  in  public,  which  is  invariably 
performed.  These  people  have  a  written  language,  a  peculiarity 
of  which  is,  that  it  is  read  from  the  bottom  upwards.  About  one- 
fourth  of  the  Battas  are  supposed  to  be  capable  of  reading. 

Sumatra  is  begirt  with  a  number  of  islands,  of  which,  those  on 
the  west  side  are  but  little  known,  and  have  a  mountainous  and 
rugged  aspect.  Off  the  eastern  coast  the  islands  of  Pulo  Lingin 
and  Bintang  have  been  long  noted  for  their  commerce  and  piracy. 
The  islet  of  Rhio,  which  belongs  to  the  Dutch,  is  separated  from 
Bintang  by  a  narrow  channel.  The  town  of  Rhio,  being  made  a 
free  port,  has  acquired  great  importance,  both  as  an  entrepot  and  a 
place  of  refreshment.     Its  population  amounts  to  6000. 

The  island  of  Banca,  east  of  Sumatra,  derives  its  sole  import- 
ance from  its  mines  of  tin ;  and  Billiton  is  distinguished  by  those 
of  iron,  the  most  valuable  in  this  quarter.  The  Dutch  have  set- 
tlements at  Bencoolen,  Palembang,  and  Padang,  in  Sumatra. 

Java  is  a  fertile  and  populous  island,  650  miles  in  length  ;  it  lies 
south-east  from  Sumatra,  and  is  separated  from  that  island  by  the 
straits  of  Sunda.  High  mountains  extend  throughout  its  whole 
length,  and  contain  numerous  volcanoes,  which  are  mostly  extinct  ; 
the  soil  is  exceedingly  fertile,  producing  sugar,  coffee,  rice,  pepper, 
spices,  indigo,  cotton,  and  all  the  principal  fruits  of  this  region. 

A  great  portion  of  the  island  is  under  the  government  of  the 
Dutch ;  but  the  southern  extremity,  which  is  in  the  possession  of 
the  original  inhabitants,  contains  the  two  native  states  of  Jogo- 
Karto  and  Solo-Karto,  fragments  of  the  empire  of  Mataram,  which 
formerly  held  sway  over  the  greater  part  of  Java.  The  first  is 
supposed  to  contain  1,000,000  subjects,  and  the  latter  700,000. 
The  two  capitals,  bearing  the  same  name  with  the  kingdoms,  are 
estimated  to  contain  a  population  of  100,000  each.  The  native 
population  of  Java  are  professors  of  the  Hindoo  religion. 

Batavia,  the  metropolis  of  Java,  is  a  large  and  important  city. 
It  is  built  in  a  low  situation,  and  the  streets  are  traversed  by  ca- 


586  OCEANICA- 

nals  in  the  manner  of  the  towns  of  Holland.  It  was  long  noted 
for  its  deadly  climate,  but  has,  by  judicious  draining,  &c,  been 
greatly  improved.  The  city  enjoys  an  extensive  commerce,  and 
contains  60,000  inhabitants,  of  whom  a  considerable  number  are 
Chinese.  The  other  chief  towns  in  Java  are  Sourabaya,  Cheri- 
bon,  and  Samarang. 

The  islands  of  Bally,  Lombock,  Sumbawa,  Floeis,  and  Ti- 
mor, extend  eastward  from  Java ;  they  seem  to  be  almost  a  contin- 
uation of  that  island,  and  are  similar  to  it  in  climate,  productions, 
&c.  Timor  is  held  jointly  in  possession  by  the  Dutch  and  Portu- 
guese. Coepang  is  the  principal  settlement  of  the  first,  and  Deily 
of  the  latter  people.  Sumbawa  contains  the  kingdom  of  Bima,  trib- 
utary to  the  Dutch,  also  an  active  volcano,  which,  in  1815,  com- 
mitted serious  ravages. 

Borneo  is,  next  to  Australia,  the  largest  island  in  the  world, 
being  between  800  and  900  miles  long,  and  700  wide.  It  is  well 
gifted  by  nature,  and  though  directly  under  the  equator,  the  moun- 
tains of  the  interior,  8000  feet  high,  give  rise  to  numerous  streams 
which  impart  moisture  and  fertility  to  the  soil.  Its  products  are 
rice,  pepper,  cinnamon,  coffee,  &c  Gold  and  diamonds  also 
abound  ;  the  mines  of  the  former  are  the  most  copious  in  the  East. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  coast  comprise  Malays,  Javanese,  Bugis, 
and  Chinese ;  the  latter  are  the  most  industrious  people  on  the 
island ;  they  carry  on  a  considerable  commerce,  work  the  gold 
mines,  &c.  The  interior  is  inhabited  by  various  independent  tribes 
between  whom  and  the  people  of  the  maritime  districts  there  is  al- 
most constant  war.  These  tribes  are  the  Dyaks,  Biajoos,  Hara- 
foras,  and  Papuan  negroes. 

The  Dyaks  are  tall,  robust,  and  ferocious :  these  savages  ex- 
tract some  of  their  front  teeth  and  insert  pieces  of  gold  in  their 
stead  :  they  eat  the  flesh  of  their  enemies,  drink  their  blood,  use 
their  bones  and  skulls  as  ornaments,  and  even  as  money,  and  they 
consider  a  man  unfit  for  matrimony  or  any  important  function  of 
life  until  he  has  slain  at  least  one  enemy  and  can  show  his  head 
as  a  proof  of  his  courage. 

The  principal  trade  is  at  Benjar  Massin,  a  port  containing  6000 
inhabitants,  and  the  metropolis  of  a  kingdom  under  the  control  of 
the  Dutch.  Borneo,  the  capital  of  a  state  which,  during  its  great- 
ness, gave  its  name  to  the  whole  island,  is  now  much  decayed,  but 
still  contains  12,000  inhabitants.  Succadana  and  Pontiana  are 
places  of  some  note. 

The  Sooloo  Archipelago  extends  eastward  from  Borneo,  and 
comprises  27  islands,  which  are  governed  by  a  Sultan  :  the  inhab- 
itants, who  are  all  devoted  to  piracy,  are  called  the  Algerines  of 


MALAYSIA. 


Javanese  War  Press.  Gigantic  Statue  in  the  Temple  of  Brambanan,  Java. 


Temple  of  Boro  Budor,  in  Java. 
The  Temple  of  Boro  Budor,  near  Cheribon,  in  Java,  is  an  ancient  and  gigantic  monumenJ 
of  Buddhist  worship,  built  of  hewn  stone,  each  side  being  520  feet  long,  and  116  high.  It 
stands  on  the  top  of  a  small  hill,  and  consists  of  a  series  of  six  enclosing  walls,  surmounted  by 
a  dome.  The  walls  are  covered  with  a  profusion  of  sculptures,  including  between  300  and  400 
images  of  the  god  Buddha. 


OCEANICA. 


Representation  of  Buddha. 
The  engraving  is  a  representation  of  Buddha,  whose  worship  is  so  widely  spread  in  the  East ; 
and  is  a  copy  of  the  principal  image  of  the  god  in  the  temple  of  Boro  Budor,  in  Java. 


Malay  House. 


Houses  of  ihe  Chiefs  unci  people  of  the  higher  orders. 

The  houses  of  the  Malays,  the  people  of  Java,  &c,  are  very  slight,  being  formed  of  bamboo, 
rnttan,  palmetto,  leaf,  and  grass.  The  habitations  of  the  chiefs  and  the  wealthy  are  only  dis- 
tinguished from  those  of  the  lower  class  by  the  greater  number  and  size  of  the  edifices,  and  the 
carving  and  paintings  with  which  they  are  adorned.  The  public  hulls  of  the  towns,  the  mosques, 
and  even  the  slate  halls  of  audience,  consist  only  of  such  structures  on  a  larger  scale. 

792 


MALAYSIA.  587 

the  Eastern  seas :  from  300  to  400  vessels  are  continually  issuing 
forth  in  this  fierce  and  perilous  occnpation  ;  yet  these  people  carry 
on  extensive  commerce  with  the  Chinese  and  other  nations,  and 
protect  those  who  trade  with  them. 

Celebes,  or  Macassar,  lies  east  of  Borneo ;  it  is  very  irregular 
in  shape,  being  composed  of  four  great  peninsulas,  producing  all 
the  chief  staples  of  this  region.  Most  of  the  island  is  occupied  by 
native  tribes,  which  are  tributary  to  the  Dutch. 

The  Macassars  and  Bugis  are  the  two  principal  races  :  the  lat- 
ter are,  at  present,  the  rulers ;  those  of  Boney  are  the  most  war- 
like, and  those  of  Wagoo  the  most  commercial.  The  latter  are 
active  traders.  The  cargoes  of  some  of  their  vessels  are  often  worth 
50,000  dollars ;  and  they  traverse  all  parts  of  this  region  from 
Australia  to  Siam. 

Macassar,  or  Vlaardingen,  is  the  capital  of  a  small  territory  at 
the  south  end  of  the  island,  in  the  possession  of  the  Dutch :  it  is 
defended  by  Fort  Rotterdam. 

The  Moluccas,  or  Spice  Islands,  comprise  Gilolo,  Ceram, 
Bouro,  Banda,  Amboyna,  Ternate,  Tidor,  &c.  They  derive  celeb- 
rity from  producing  the  rich  spices,  cloves,  nutmegs,  and  mace. 
Gilolo  is  the  largest  of  the  group,  and  presents  the  usual  spectacle 
in  these  regions,  of  a  rude  people  governed  by  a  number  of  turbu- 
lent chieftains.  Ceram  is  mostly  under  the  power  of  a  single  prince, 
who  is  tributary  to  the  Dutch.  Amboyna  is  the  chief  European 
settlement,  and  is  the  only  island  where,  until  lately,  the  clove 
was  permitted  to  be  raised.  The  town  of  Amboyna  contains  7000 
inhabitants.  Nassau,  a  town  on  the  small  island  of  Neira,  is  the 
residence  of  the  Dutch  governor  of  the  Moluccas. 

The  Philippines  form  an  extensive  archipelago,  comprising 
about  1000  islands,  islets,  and  rocks,  situated  north-east  of  Borneo. 
Few  countries  are  more  favoured  as  to  soil  and  climate.  Though 
placed  but  little  north  of  the  equator,  the  height  of  the  mountains 
and  the  ocean  breezes  preserve  these  islands  from  suffering  under 
any  severe  or  scorching  heat.  They  produce  most  of  the  staple 
tropical  articles,  sugar,  rice,  tobacco,  coffee,  indigo,  &c. 

The  largest  of  the  group  are  Luzon  and  Mindanao ;  the  first  is 
about  equal  in  area  to  the  state  of  Alabama,  and  the  other  to  that 
of  South  Carolina ;  of  the  remaining  islands,  eight  only  are  of 
any  importance,  a  vast  majority  being  mere  islets  and  rocks. 
They  belong  to  Spain ;  the  chief  part,  however,  of  the  inhabitants 
are  of  the  native  races,  of  which  the  most  improved  are  the  Taga- 
las ;  another  is  the  Bisayans  ;  there  are  also  in  the  interior  of  the 
larger  islands  a  considerable  number  of  Papuan  negroes. 

Manilla,  the  capital  of  Luzon,  and  of  the  whole  group  of  the 

3R  793 


588  OCEANICA. 

Philippines,  contains,  with  its  suburbs,  180,000  inhabitants.  This 
city  is  the  centre  of  an  extensive  commerce,  and  its  harbour  is 
crowded  with  European,  American,  and  Chinese  vessels. 


AUSTRALASIA. 

Australasia  comprises  the  south-western  section  of  Oceanica ; 
it  contains  about  three-fourths  of  its  land  surface,  and  lies  wholly 
south  of  the  equator.  This  region  includes  Australia,  Van  Die- 
man's  Land,  New  Zealand,  New  Guinea,  New  Britain,  New 
Ireland,  Solomon's  Archipelago,  New  Hebrides,  New  Caledonia, 
&c.  The  inhabitants  have  been  reckoned  at  from  1,000,000  to 
2,000,000,  and  the  area  at  about  3,500,000  square  miles. 

Australia,  formerly  New  Holland,  is  the  largest  island  in  the 
world :  it  is  2600  miles  in  length,  and  contains  3,000,000  square 
miles.  The  whole  island  is  claimed  by  Great  Britain.  It  is  laid 
off  into  two  great  divisions  :  the  western  retains  the  old  name,  New 
Holland,  and  the  eastern  is  called  New  South  Wales. 

This  vast  extent  of  territory  is  very  imperfectly  known  ;  we  are 
acquainted,  for  the  most  part,  with  the  coasts  only,  except  that 
some  exploring  parties  have  penetrated  from  the  eastern  to  the 
western  shores  in  the  southern  portion  of  the  island.  The  Blue 
Mountains,  which  extend  parallel  with  the  east  coast,  about  70  or 
80  miles  inland,  are  the  most  extensive  range  yet  discovered ; 
from  their  western  declivities,  the  Darling,  Lachlan,  Morumbidgee, 
and  other  streams,  appear  to  unite  in  the  Murray,  a  river  upwards 
of  1000  miles  in  length,  which  flows  into  the  ocean  through  lake 
Alexandrina.  That  stream,  first  discovered  in  1830,  is  the  most 
considerable  yet  met  with  in  the  island. 

Australia  is,  in  some  respects,  unlike  any  other  part  of  the  world. 
Nearly  all  the  various  species  of  plants,  from  the  most  minute 
shrub  to  the  loftiest  ornaments  of  the  forest,  differ  from  those  of 
the  other  quarters  of  the  earth.  None  of  its  rivers  or  marshes 
contain  any  species  of  the  tortoise  or  the  lizard ;  and  no  animal 
larger  than  a  common-sized  sheep  has  been  discovered.  Almost 
every  thing  in  the  animal  and  vegetable  world  is  singular  and 
striking.  The  swans  are  black,  and  the  eagles  white;  the  mole 
lays  eggs,  has  a  duck's  bill,  and  suckles  its  young.  The  pears 
are  made  of  wood,  with  the  stalk  at  the  larger  end  ;  and  the  cherry 
grows  with  the  stone  on  the  outside. 

The  kangaroo,  of  which  there  are  many  varieties,  is  the  most 
considerable  animal  yet  discovered  in  Australia :  the  largest  is 
about  the  size  of  a  full-grown  sheep,  and  moves  by  springing  30 
feet  at  a  bound,  which  it  is  enabled  to  do  by  the  great  length  and 


AUSTRALASIA. 


Telopea  Speciosissima. 


Doryanthes  Excelsa.  Araucaria  Excelsa. 

The  Doryanthes  Excelsa,  Australian  or  New  Holland  lily,  is  one  of  the  most  magnificent  of 
all  known  plants.  In  green-houses  it  has  flowered  and  attained  the  height  of  twenty-four  feet, 
bearing  on  its  summit  a  crown  of  blossoms  of  the  richest  crimson,  each  six  inches  in  diameter. 
The  leaves  are  very  numerous,  sword-shaped,  and  from  five  to  six  feet  long. 


Acacia. 
The  Australian  Acacias  include    near  a  hundred  species,  and  are,  so  far  as  the  country  is 
known,  very  generally  diffused.    In  al!  of  them  the  leaves  are  vertical,  and  present  their  margin, 
and  not  either  surface,  towards  the  stem,  both  surfaces  having,  consequently,  the  same  relation 
'.o  light. 

795 


OCEANICA. 


Phormiura  Tenax. 


Dawsonia  Polytrichoides. 


The  Phormium  Tenax,  or  New  Zealand  Flax,  grows  in  the  islands  of  New  Zealand,  and 
furnishes  the  inhabitants  of  that  region  with  a  strong  and  serviceable  species  of  flax,  much 
superior  for  making  all  kinds  of  cording,  to  any  similar  article  found  elsewhere.  The  leaves 
attain  the  length  of  five  or  six  feet ;  when  sufficiently  grown  for  use,  they  are  cut  from  the 
plant,  and  are  immediately  prepared  for  service. 

This  operation  is  performed  by  a  simple  but  rather  tedious  process.  The  native  women, 
holding  the  end  of  a  newly-cut  leaf  with  their  toes,  and  inserting  a  shell  between  the  green 
substance  and  the  fibre,  readily  effect  the  separation  by  merely  drawing  the  shell  through  the 
whole  length  of  the  leaf.  This  plant  has  been  successfully  cultivated  in  England  and  France  ; 
but  no  rapid  process  for  separating  the  fibre  having  as  yet  been  invented,  its  introduction  into 
European  countries  has  not  realized  expectation. 


Cenomyce  Rc-tispora. 


Claudea  Elegans. 


Cephalotus  Follicularis. 
The  Cephalotus  Follicularis  has  among  its  leaves  ascidia,  or  pitcher-shaped  bodies,  with  a 
lid  to  them,  very  similar  to  the  nepenthes  plant,  which,  however,  it  resembles  in  no  other  par- 
ticular. These  pitchers  are  generally  half-full  of  a  slightly  sweet-tasted  liquid,  in  which  numbers 
of  ants  and  other  small  insects  are  found  dead.  The  lid  is  sometimes  raised,  and  sometimes 
lowered,  and  its  position  is  supposed  to  be  determined  by  the  6tate  of  the  atmosphere. 

796 


AUSTRALASIA. 


Kangaroo. 


New  Holland  Dog.  Dog-faced  Opossum. 

The  New  Holland  Dog,  or  Dingo,  13  fierce,  active,  and  voracious  ;  it  is  never  known  to 
bark,  and  is  the  only  native  domestic  animal  of  Australia.  One  that  was  brought  alive  to 
England  leaped  on  the  back  of  an  ass,  and  would  have  destroyed  it. 

The  Dog-faced  Opossum  has  something  of  the  appearance  of  the  dog  and  the  panther  united. 
The  fur  is  short  and  soft,  and  the  body  is  marked  by  brfJad  transverse  stripes.  It  inhabits  the 
rocks  about  the  sea-shore,  and  feeds  upon  fish. 


Platypus,  or  Duck-bill 


Menura  Superba. 


Ground  Parrot. 


797 


OCEANICA. 


Crimson-tailed  Cockatoo.  Wedge-tailed  Eagle.         Crested  Bronze-winged  Pigeon. 

The  Crimson-tailed  Cockatoo  is  a  large  splendid  bird,  of  a  black  colour  on  the  body,  and 
having  the  tail  variegated  with  rich  crimson.  In  Australia,  but  few  birds  of  prey  have  as  yet 
been  found  ;  the  largest  is  the  Wedge-tailed  Eagle,  about  the  size  of  the  golden  eagle  of 
Europe.    Its  legs  are  feathered  to  the  toes. 

The  Crested  Bronze-winged  Pigeon  is  the  rarest  of  Australian  birds.  Only  one  specimen  is 
known  in  Europe,  now  preserved  in  the  Museum  of  the  Linnean  Society,  London. 


Spotted  Grosbeak  Superb  Warbler.  King  Oriole. 

The  Spotted  Grosbeak  is  a  most  elegantly-coloured  bird  ;  it  is  of  a  light  slate  colour  above, 
with  the  bill  and  rump  deep  crimson;  the  throat  has  a  black  collar,  and  the  sides  have  snow- 
white  spots  on  a  black  ground. 

The  Superb  Warbler  is  a  beautiful  little  bird.  The  back  of  the  head  and  the  throat  are 
velvet  black,  divided  by  bands  of  the  richest  blue.  It  is  constantly  in  motion,  carries  its  tail 
nearly  erect,  and  sings  a  short  little  song  as  it  perches. 

The  King  Oriole  is  of  two  colours  only — golden  yellow  and  the  deepest  black ;  the  feathers 
of  the  head  resembling  the  softest  velvet,  so  that  nothing  can  exceed  the  richness  of  its  appearance. 


Bronze-winged  Pigeon. 
798 


AUSTRALASIA.  589 

strength  of  its  hind  legs.  The  female  of  all  the  different  varieties 
is  provided  with  an  abdominal  pouch,  similar  to  that  of  the  opos- 
sum, for  the  reception  of  the  young.  They  use  their  tail  as  a 
weapon  of  defence,  a  blow  from  which  has  been  known  to  break 
a  stout  man's  leg.  The  flesh  of  this  animal  is  much  esteemed  for 
food,  and  is  said  to  resemble  mutton. 

The  dingo,  or  New  Holland  dog,  is  never  known  to  bark  :  it  is 
fierce,  active  and  voracious.  The  dog-faced  opossum  inhabits 
Van  Diemen's  Land :  it  lives  among  the  rocks  on  the  sea-shore, 
and  feeds  on  fish. 

The  duck-bill  is  a  most  singular  animal ;  it  is  about  the  size  of 
a  cat,  is  covered  with  fur,  web-footed,  and  has  a  bill  like  a  duck. 
It  lays  eggs,  suckles  its  young,  and  spends  most  of  its  time  in  the 
water.  The  foot  of  the  male  is  armed  with  a  spur,  through  which 
passes  a  poisonous  liquor,  rendering  the  animal  dangerous. 

The  emeu  is  the  largest  of  Australian  birds;  it  has  some  resem- 
blance to  the  ostrich,  but  is  smaller,  being  only  about  seven  feet  high  : 
the  feathers  at  a  little  distance  appear  like  coarse  hair :  it  is  often 
hunted  for  its  flesh,  which  has  the  flavour  of  beef.  The  black 
swan  is  like  the  white  in  form  and  habits,  but  is  rather  less  in  size. 

The  bird  called  the  honey-sucker  has  a  tongue  like  a  brush, 
with  which  it  extracts  the  juice  of  flowers.  Beautiful  parrots, 
cockatoos  and  parakeets  abound,  with  pigeons  and  doves  of  various 
colours.  Some  of  these  are  green,  and  some  brown,  while  others 
are  beautifully  variegated  with  the  richest  colours,  relieved  with 
bright  spots  equal  in  brilliancy  to  the  richest  gems. 

The  native  inhabitants  of  Australasia,  excepting  those  of  New 
Zealand,  all  belong  to  the  Papuan  race  already  mentioned.  They 
have  been  also  called  Melanesians,  a  term  signifying  Black  Isl- 
anders. Among  these  people,  especially  in  Australia,  the  state  of 
nature  is  complete.  There  is  no  society,  no  government,  no  laws ; 
and  each  man  acts  according  to  his  own  will  and  fancy. 

These  miserable  beings  are  often  destitute  of  clothing  and  dwell- 
ings of  any  kind,  living  in  the  open  air,  and  sleeping  in  the  crevices 
of  the  rocks  or  among  the  bushes.  They  are  ignorant  of  the  use 
of  the  bow,  but  are  armed  with  spears,  clubs,  and  shields.  It  is 
said  they  have  no  precise  notion  of  a  Supreme  Being,  and  are 
without  idols,  sacrifices,  prayers  or  priests.  Their  perceptions  are 
quick ;  and,  like  other  rude  tribes,  they  can  discover  a  track 
amongst  the  grass  or  bushes  where  the  civilized  man  can  see 
nothing  to  guide  him.  These  savages  have  often  great  powers  of 
mimicry,  and  in  disposition  are  cunning,  lively  and  capricious. 

The  people  of  New  Guinea,  New  Britain,  Solomon's  Archi- 
pelago, the  New  Hebrides,  New  Caledonia,  &c,  though  of  the 
same  race,  are  rather  more  advanced  in  the  arts  of  life  than  those 
50  ™ 


590  OCEANICA. 

of  Australia,  and  have  some  imperfect  forms  of  government.  They 
build  rude  dwellings,  construct  canoes,  and  make  fishing-nets  and 
sails  with  some  degree  of  skill. 

The  natives  of  New  Zealand  belong  to  the  Malay  variety  of  the 
human  family,  and  like  that  people  in  other  quarters,  comprise 
two  classes,  nobles  and  slaves.  They  are  a  finely-formed  race 
of  savages,  but  very  warlike,  cruel  and  ferocious  :  they  are  known 
to  be  cannibals,  and  eat  not  only  the  prisoners  they  take  in  war, 
but  even  their  domestic  slaves,  whom  they  often  kill  when  under 
the  influence  of  passion.  Many  European  vessels  have  been  at 
various  times  captured  by  them,  and  the  crews  destroyed  and  eaten  ; 
but  these  horrid  practices  have  greatly  diminished  wherever  the 
missionary  influence  has  extended. 

The  more  civilized  of  the  New  Zealanders  are  ofien  employed 
on  board  of  whaling  and  other  vessels,  and  are  found  to  be  tract- 
able and  serviceable.  In  one  instance  a  native,  though  highly 
tattooed,  has  become  the  first  officer  of  a  large  English  ship,  and 
a  skilful  and  scientific  navigator.  Some  of  these  islanders  have 
wrought  also  as  labourers  at  Sydney,  and  are  much  esteemed, 
having  no  propensity  for  spirituous  liquors.  Many  of  the  chiefs 
have  a  turn  for  oratory,  and  sometimes  they  make  speeches  of  two 
or  three  hours'  duration,  accompanied  with  vehement  gestures,  to 
which  those  of  the  audience  correspond. 

Tattooing,  or  the  practice  of  covering  the  person  with  various 
lines  and  figures,  is  carried  to  a  great  extent  in  New  Zealand  ;  the 
faces  and  even  the  whole  body  of  some  of  the  chief  men  are  thus 
marked,  degrees  of  rank  being  designated  by  the  greater  or  less 
surface  of  tattooed  skin.  This  operation  is  performed  by  punctur- 
ing the  flesh  with  a  sharp  instrument  and  infusing  colouring  matter 
into  the  incisions. 

The  children  of  the  white  settlers,  or  the  Anglo- Australians  and 
Tasmanians,  even  in  the  first  generation,  appear  to  differ  in  some 
respects  from  their  progenitors:  almost  without  exception,  they 
have  fair  complexions  and  blue  eyes ;  they  grow  up  tall  and  thin, 
and  soon  arrive  at  puberty.  In  character  they  are  said  to  be  en- 
ergetic, intelligent  and  courageous,  and  believe  themselves  to  be  a 
great  improvement  on  the  parent  stock. 

In  the  Australian  colonies  the  pride  of  station  is  carried  to  an 
extravagant  height,  and  a  strong  line  of  distinction  between  the 
free  and  convict  population  exists.  The  native-born  inhabitants 
are  in  common  language  called  currency,  and  the  European  ster- 
ling. The  former  are  greatly  attached  to  their  native  soil,  and 
affect  to  have  a  marked  .contempt  for  the  mother  country. 

Botany  Bay  Colony. — In  the  southern  part  of  New  South 
Wales,  is  the  settlement  founded  in  1787,  and  commonly  known 


AUSTRALASIA. 


Native  of  Dam  pier's  Archipelago,  a  group  of  islands  on  the  north-west  coast  of  Australia. 


Canoes  with  one  Man. 


Australians  spearing  Fish. 

The  main  occupation  of  the  aborigines  of  Australia,  who  live  on  the  sea  coast,  is  fishing  ; 
yet  their  canoes  are  small  and  rude,  consisting  with  some  of  only  a  sheet  of  tree  bark  folded  and 
tied  up  at  each  end. 

The  native  of  Dampier's  archipelago  has  merely  a  log  on  which  he  sits  astride.  In  other 
quarters,  canoes  are  hollowed  out  from  a  piece  of  wood  just  sufficient  to  hold  a  single  person, 
who  sits  and  steers  them  with  a  couple  of  chips  or  a  piece  of  bark. 

The  most  advanced  of  the  Australian  tribes  possess  canoes  large  enough  to  hold  two  persons  • 
and  also  show  some  dexterity  in  striking  the  fish  with  spears. 


Missionary  addressing  South  Sea  Islanders. 

There  are,  at  the  present  time,  many  missionaries  employed  in  spreading  the  gospel  among 

the  heathen  nations  of  Oceaniea.    In  the  Sandwich  Islands  they  are  Americans;  in  Malaysia, 

American,  Dutch,  and  English  ;  and  in  Australia,  Van  Diemen's  Land,  New  Zealand,  and  the 

Society  and  Georgian  Islands,  English. 

801 


OCEANICA. 


Man  and  Woman  of  New  Zealand 


New  Zealand  Chief. 


Fortified  Village  in  New  Zealand. 
Owing  to  the  almost  continual  wars  that  are  carried  on  between  the  New  Zealand  tribes, 
Ihcir  villages,  or  hippahs,  are  generally  fortified,  and  are  placed  on  high  rocks  or  steep  hills, 
ascended  by  pathways  narrow,  winding,  and  often  almost  perpendicular. 


Man  and  Woman  of  New  Caledonia. 


New  Zealand  Family. 


Natives  of  Tanna,  ono  of  the  Hebrides. 


802 


AUSTRALASIA.  591 

as  the  Botany  Bay  Colony.  The  climate  of  this  part  of  Australia 
is  temperate  and  agreeable ;  the  soil  is  moderately  fertile :  the 
country,  however,  is  liable  to  long  droughts,  which  do  much  injury. 
Wheat,  Indian-corn,  and  potatoes,  are  the  chief  objects  of  culture. 
Cattle  and  sheep  are  numerous ;  and  wool  is  one  of  the  chief  pro- 
ducts. A  few  common  articles  are  manufactured,  chiefly  of  the 
bulky  kind.  The  colonists  are  actively  engaged  in  the  whale  and 
seal  fishery.     Population,  from  80,000  to  100,000. 

To  this  region,  great  numbers  of  criminals  have  been  banished 
from  Great  Britain.  Here  they  labour  during  the  term  for  which 
they  were  sentenced ;  and,  on  its  expiration,  they  may  return  to 
England,  or  remain  in  Australia.  In  the  latter  event,  they  re- 
ceive a  grant  of  40  acres  of  land,  with  stock  and  provisions.  The 
Colony  extends  along  the  coast  about  300  miles,  and  contains  a 
number  of  small  towns  and  settlements. 

Sydney,  the  capital  of  Australia,  stands  on  Port  Jackson.  It 
has  a  fine  situation,  a  good  harbour,  and  a  population  of  15,000 
or  20,000.  It  contains  churches,  public  and  private  schools, 
banks,  &c,  and  carries  on  an  active  commerce  with  Great  Britain, 
China,  India,  New  Zealand,  Cape  Colony,  &c.  Wool,  sperm  and 
whale  oil,  wheat,  &c,  are  the  principal  exports. 

Paramatta,  Windsor,  and  Liverpool,  are  small  towns  on  the  east 
side  of  the  Blue  Mountains,  of  which  the  first  has  about  3000  in- 
habitants, and  the  others  1000  or  1500  each.  Bathurst,  160  miles 
from  Sydney,  and  west  of  the  mountains,  is  situated  1800  feet 
above  the  sea.  It  enjoys  a  cool  and  pleasant  climate,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  an  extensive  grazing  country,  which  supplies  large 
quantities  of  wool. 

The  Colony  of  West  Australia  was  established  at  Swan 
River  in  the  year  1829.  The  country  is  rather  dry  and  sandy, 
but  is  favourable  for  raising  cattle.  The  settlement  contains  from 
3000  to  4000  inhabitants.  Perth  and  Freemantle  are  small  towns, 
containing  each  a  few  dwelling-houses. 

South-east  of  Swan  River,  and  on  the  south  coast  of  Australia 
at  King  George's  Sound,  is  the  small  settlement  of  Albany. 

The  Colony  of  South  Australia,  founded  in  1836,  lies 
on  the  west  coast  of  the  island,  almost  due  west  from  Sydney.  It 
was  established  by  the  South  Australian  Company,  to  whom  a 
large  tract  of  land  has  been  granted  by  the  British  government, 
the  proceeds  of  which  are  to  be  applied  to  the  conveying  of  free 
settlers  to  the  colony.  No  convicts  are  to  be  sent  to  this  quarter. 
The  population  in  1840  was  estimated  at  10,000,  of  whom  a  por- 
tion are  Germans. 

Adelaide,  the  capital  of  South  Australia,  is  laid  out  near  the 
west  coast  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Vincent.     It  was  founded  in  1837, 


592  OCEANIC  A. 

and  now  contains  a  few  temporary  public  buildings  and  a  number 
of  private  dwellings.  The  bank  of  South  Australia  has  com- 
menced operations,  and  a  newspaper  is  already  printed.  Glenelg 
and  Kingscote  are  small  towns,  lately  laid  out :  the  latter  is  situated 
on  Kangaroo  island.  Farther  to  the  south-east,  at  Portland  Bay 
and  Port  Philip,  settlements  have  been  formed.  At  the  latter,  the 
town  of  Melbourne  has  been  laid  out.     Population  3,000. 

Van  Diemen's  Land,  or  Tasmania,  is  an  island  separated 
from  Australia  by  Bass'  Strait.  A  settlement  was  commenced 
here  in  1804,  which  continued  for  21  years  politically  united  to 
New  South  Wales,  but  is  now  a  separate  government.  This 
colony  is  in  a  prosperous  condition,  and  is  settling  rapidly ;  the 
inhabitants  amount  to  upwards  o{^  40,000,  of  whom  one-third  are 
convicts.  Length  of  the  island,  200  miles ;  breadth,  150  ;  area, 
27,000  square  miles.  The  original  inhabitants,  now  reduced  to 
300  or  400  in  number,  have  been  removed  to  an  island  in  Bass' 
Straits. 

The  chief  towns  are  Hobart  Town,  Launceston,  George  Town, 
&c.  The  first  is  the  capital :  it  has  one  of  the  finest  harbours  in 
the  world,  is  pleasantly  situated,  and  carries  on  a  flourishing  com- 
merce. Population,  13,000.  The  other  towns  are  mere  villages, 
containing  not  more  than  a  hundred  houses  each. 

New  Zealand  comprises  one  small  and  two  large  islands,  which 
lie  to  the  south-east  of  Australia,  and  contain  an  area  of  95,000 
square  miles.  Ranges  of  mountains  extend  through  both  the  larger 
islands,  and  rise  in  some  cases  to  the  height  of  12,000  or  14,000 
feet.  The  soil,  where  level,  is  very  fertile.  The  products  are  Indian- 
corn,  yams,  potatoes,  and  a  species  of  very  strong  flax,  highly  ser- 
viceable for  clothing,  cordage,  &c.  The  forests  contain  large  and 
valuable  timber;  some  trees,  of  a  species  of  pine,  grow  100  feet 
high  from  the  ground  to  the  branches,  and  are  40  feet  in  girth : 
great  quantities  are  cut  and  exported. 

In  the  northern  island,  missionary  labours  were  commenced  in 
1815.  Many  of  the  natives  have  been  instructed  in  reading, 
writing,  and  religion ;  and,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  missions,  they 
are  beginning  to  cultivate  the  soil  in  a  regular  manner,  and  to 
breed  cattle  :  they  are  also  acquiring  a  taste  for  European  clothing 
and  comforts. 

A  British  settlement  is  established  at  the  Bay  of  Islands,  on  the 
east  coast  of  the  northern  island:  here  there  are  several  mission- 
aries stationed,  and  about  500  English  families  have  taken  up  their 
residence.  This  place  is  a  great  resort  for  whale-ships,  20  or  30 
being  often  in  harbour  at  one  time.  The  British  settlements  in 
New  Zealand  were  until  recently  under  the  cognizance  of  an  of- 


AUSTRALASIA, 


View  of  Sydney,  New  South  Wales. 
Sydney,  founded  in  1788,  by  Governor  Phillip,  was  the  first  British  settlement  in  Australia, 
and  is  still  the  largest  town.  Originally,  the  houses  were  built  without  order,  but  of  late  years 
a  regular  plan  has  been  followed,  and  some  of  the  streets  present  a  handsome  appearance. 
The  hard  material  of  the  surface  renders  paving  unnecessary;  but  lighting  at  night  has  been 
adopted  for  some  time  past.  The  best  houses  are  of  white  free-stone,  or  brick  plastered,  and 
have  a  light  and  airy  appearance. 


Waterfall,  Prince  Regent's  river,  north-west  coast  of  Australia. 
In  the  waterfall  of  Prince  Regent's  river,  the  stratified  form  of  the  rock  causes  the  stream  to 
appear  as  if  falling  down  a  range  of  steps. 


Convicts  landing  in  one  of  the  Penal  Colonies. 
The  transportation  of  convicts  for  crimes  committed  in  Great  Britain,  is  the  mode  in  which 
New  South  Wales  and  Van  Dicmen'a  Land,  called  Penal  Colonies,  were  at  first  settled.  The 
convicts  are  sent  out  in  considerable  numbers  at  a  time,  in  large  vessels,  known  as  convict 
ships,  specially  prepared  for  the  purpose.  The  first  cargo  of  these  people  was  landed  at  Botany 
Bay,  in  1788,  and  the  first  sent  to  Van  Piemen's  Land  in  1804.  The  plan  is  still  pursued  ;  and 
the  number  of  convicts  now  in  the  colonies  is  estimated  at  40,000,  or  about  one-third  of  the 
whole  population. 

3S  805 


OCEANICA. 


Branch  and  Fruit  of  the  Bread  Fruit  Tree.  Branch  of  the  Yam  Plant. 

The  Bread  Fruit  is  the  chief  article  of  the  vegetable  kind  that  the  South  Sea  Islanders  use  as 
food.    The  tree  produces  three  or  four  crops  annually,  being  seldom  quite  destitute  of  ripe  fruit. 

The  Yam  is  a  nutritious  root  that  is  raised  to  some  extent  in  Polynesia,  and  is  cultivated  in 
the  same  way  as  the  potatoe.  Under  good  management,  the  produce  is  very  great,  20,000 
or  30,000  pounds  weight  to  the  acre  having  been  obtained. 


Paper  Mulberry.  Aleurites  Triloba.  Sandal  Wood. 

Of  the  inner  bark  of  the  Paper  Mulberry,  the  South  Sea  Islanders  make  a  kind  of  cloth  that 
serves  for  garments,  matting  and  bedding.  It  is,  however,  of  a  perishable  nature,  being  but 
little  stronger  than  stout  paper. 

The  Aleurites  Triloba  affords  an  oily  nut,  that  was  formerly  used  as  a  substitute  for  candles. 
Thirty  or  forty  nuts  are  strung  on  a  rush,  and  the  uppermost  being  lighted,  communicates,  when 
nearly  burnt  out,  its  flame  to  the  one  beneath,  and  thus  they  are  consumed  in  succession. 

Sandal  Wood  is  the  chief  article  of  export  from  the  Sandwich  Islands.  It  is  sold  by  weight, 
and  is  carried  to  Canton,  where  it  is  purchased  by  the  Chinese  for  the  purpose  of  burning  in 
their  temples,  or  jos-houses,  as  incense. 


South  Sea  Morai,  or  Temple. 


POLYNESIA.  593 

ficer  called  the  Resident,  who  was  invested  with  magisterial  pow- 
ers, and  had  authority  to  send  offenders  to  Sydney  for  trial. 

At  Hokianga,  on  the  western  coast,  and  about  20  miles  from 
the  Bay  of  Islands,  another  English  colony  has  been  established. 
Near  this  place,  the  British  New  Zealand  Colonization  Company 
has  purchased  a  considerable  tract  of  land ;  and  emigrants  are 
constantly  arriving  from  Europe. 

In  October,  1835,  a  number  of  the  native  chiefs  of  the  northern 
island  met  at  Waitunga  (Bay  of  Islands,)  declared  the  country 
independent,  under  the  title  of  the  United  Tribes  of  New  Zealand ; 
and  decreed  the  sovereign  power  to  reside  in  themselves  alone  in 
congress  assembled  :  they,  at  the  same  time,  invited  the  southern 
tribes  to  join  their  union,  and  solicited  the  British  monarch  to  be- 
come its  protector.  In  1840,  New  Zealand  was  added  to  the 
possessions  of  Great  Britain,  and  a  royal  governor  was  appointed. 

Papua,  or  New  Guinea,  lies  north  of  Australia,  from  which 
it  is  separated  by  Torres'  Strait:  it  is  1200  miles  in  length,  and  is 
believed  to  be  one  of  the  most  fertile  countries  in  the  world,  but  is 
almost  unknown.  The  population  consists  of  the  Papuan,  or 
oriental  negroes,  rather  more  advanced  than  those  of  Australia, 
mingled  with  the  still  ruder  race  of  the  Harafbras,  who  inhabit 
the  interior  mountains. 

Louisiade,  situated  south  of  New  Guinea,  is  supposed  to  con- 
sist of  a  number  of  islands  lying  very  close  together.  New 
Britain,  New  Ireland,  Solomon's  Archipelago,  the  New  He- 
brides, and  iVete  Caledonia,  are  all  in  the  north-eastern  part  of 
Australia ;  they  are  but  little  known,  and  are  described  as  gene- 
rally fertile.  The  inhabitants  of  these  islands  are  divided  into 
petty  tribes,  and,  like  all  savages,  are  constantly  at  war  with  each 
other ;  and  some  of  them  are  said  to  be  cannibals. 

Norfolk  Island,  about  1000  miles  north-east  from  Sydney, 
is  a  penal  settlement,  to  which  convicts  are  sent  who  have  been 
found  guilty  of  crimes  committed  in  New  South  Wales,  and  sen- 
tenced to. hard  labour  for  life,  or  for  a  long  period.  The  number 
here  is  500 :  the  whole  population  being  about  800,  including  the 
military,  &c. 


POLYNESIA. 

Polynesia,  signifying  the  many  isles,  comprises  the  numerous 
groups  of  islands  with  which  a  great  part  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  is 
studded.  They  lie  chiefly  within  the  tropics,  and  are  among  the 
most  delightful  countries  to  be  found  in  the  world.    The  population 

50  *  807 


594  0CEAN1CA. 

of  this  region  was  formerly  conjectured  to  be  about  1,500,000  ;  but 
is  now  supposed  not  to  exceed  one-third  of  that  amount. 

The  climate  of  Polynesia  is  mild  and  agreeable,  the  heat  being 
moderated  by  the  close  vicinity  to  the  sea ;  and  the  inhabitants,  in 
consequence,  require  but  little  shelter  or  clothing.  The  tempera- 
ture is  remarkably  uniform,  and  a  perpetual  spring  seems  to  reign 
by  the  side  of  a  perpetual  summer.  The  larger  islands  contain 
lofty  mountains,  some  of  which  are  volcanoes  ;  while  others,  reared 
by  the  coral  insect,  are  low  and  almost  on  a  level  with  the  surface 
of  the  ocean. 

The  soil  of  these  islands  yields  many  useful  productions  which 
grow  either  spontaneously  or  under  the  influence  of  culture.  The 
yam,  the  taro,  the  sweet  potatoe,  and  the  plantain,  all  more  or  less 
answer  the  double  purpose  of  bread  and  vegetables.  The  moat 
important  product  is  the  bread-fruit  tree,  the  trunk  of  which  rises 
to  the  height  of  40  feet,  and  attains  the  thickness  of  a  man's  body. 
The  fruit  is  as  large  as  a  child's  head  :  gathered  before  it  is  fully 
ripe,  and  baked  among  ashes,  it  becomes  a  wholesome  bread  some- 
what resembling  fresh  wheat  bread  in  taste. 

The  trunk  of  the  bread-fruit  tree  supplies  timber  for  building 
canoes  and  houses,  the  gum  which  exudes  from  it  answers  the 
purpose  of  pitch,  and  a  species  of  cloth  is  made  from  the  inner 
bark.     There  are  no  less  than  fifty  varieties  of  this  tree. 

The  cocoa-nut  is,  after  the  bread-fruit  tree,  the  most  valuable  : 
its  fruit,  its  wood,  its  leaves,  and  its  fibres,  are  all  subservient  to 
the  wants  and  necessities  of  the  people.  Besides  the  articles  enu- 
merated, oranges,  shaddocks,  limes,  citrons,  pine-apples,  guavas, 
figs,  &c.  abound. 

The  practice  of  tattooing,  as  in  New  Zealand,  is  also  general 
among  these  people.  The  various  figures  impressed  on  the  skin 
in  this  operation  are  not  merely  fanciful  but  are  for  the  most  part 
indicative  of  the  tribe,  rank,  or  sex  of  the  individual.  The  native 
cloth  of  the  Polynesians  is  produced  by  beating  the  bark  of  certain 
trees  with  a  mallet  until  it  becomes  soft  and  pliable.  From  the 
leaves  of  the  Pandanus  tree  fine  mats  are  made,  sometimes  twenty 
yards  square,  and  similar  in  texture  to  the  plait  of  a  Leghorn 
bonnet :  splendid,  and  often  fantastic  head-dresses,  are  also  formed 
of  the  feathers  of  various  birds. 

The  only  domestic  animals  are  hogs  and  dogs,  both  used  as  food; 
they  form,  however,  luxuries  which  are  indulged  in  only  by  the 
chiefs,  and  superior  ranks.  The  larger  animals  are  not  yet  intro- 
duced to  any  extent ;  but  the  sugar-cane,  rice,  pine-apple,  grape, 
and  common  potatoe  have  been  carried  thither  by  Europeans. 
The  principal  animal  food  of  the  inhabitants  is  derived  from  the 
sea,  and  the  chief  part  of  the  fish  is  eaten  raw. 

80? 


POLYNESIA.  595 

These  islands  furnish  but  few  commodities  of  much  value  in 
commerce ;  the  sandal-wood  of  the  Sandwich  and  Feejee  groups 
finds  a  ready  market  in  China,  but  is  now  become  scarce.  The 
chief  ports  are  much  visited  by  whale  and  other  ships  for  supplies 
of  provisions,  water,  &c,  which  creates  a  market  for  the  timber, 
live  stock,  and  fruits  of  the  various  islands.  About  200  vessels 
are  supposed  to  touch  annually  at  Tahiti  or  Otaheite,  and  double 
that  number  at  the  Sandwich  Islands. 

The  inhabitants  of  Polynesia  appear  to  be  of  the  Malay  race; 
and,  though  scattered  over  so  wide  an  extent  of  ocean,  bear  a 
striking  resemblance  to  each  other.  In  complexion,  they  are  of 
various  shades,  often  not  darker  than  Southern  Europeans,  and  in 
beauty  and  regularity  of  form,  are  mostly  superior  to  the  people  of 
Malaysia.  The  inhabitants  of  this  region  are  often  called  South 
Sea  Islanders. 

They  are  in  general  mild  and  gentle  in  disposition,  and  tender 
in  their  attachments,  but  often  indolent  and  inactive :  when  en- 
gaged in  war,  however,  or  stimulated  by  some  particular  interest, 
they  are  courageous,  fierce  and  cruel ;  and  their  contests  have 
been  carried  on  with  such  barbarity  that  some  islands  have  been 
entirely  depopulated. 

When  first  visited  by  Europeans,  many  of  these  islanders  had 
attained  a  certain  degree  of  civilization ;  being  organized  into  re- 
gular societies,  having  a  settled  system  of  religion,  laws  and  cus- 
toms rigidly  adhered  to,  and  a  distinct  division  of  society  into 
chiefs  and  slaves.  The  inhabitants  of  the  small  islands  are  gene- 
rally more  barbarous  and  cruel  than  those  of  the  larger. 

The  native  religion  of  Polynesia  may  be  ranked  amongst  the 
darkest  forms  of  superstition.  It  not  only  gives  no  support  to  vir- 
tue, but  affords  full  sanction  to  the  most  cruel  and  dissolute  prac- 
tices. Cannibalism  and  infanticide  were  general  in  all  quarters ; 
and  are  still  common  among  the  pagan  inhabitants.  Besides  the 
numerous  animals  offered  in  sacrifice,  human  victims  were  univer- 
sally put  to  death  on  the  altars  of  the  hideous  idols  worshipped  by 
these  people. 

One  of  the  observances  peculiar  to  these  islands  is,  that  of  the 
taboo,  in  which  the  chiefs,  or  priests,  may  declare  any  place  or 
object  sacred,  or  consecrated ;  and  also  punish  with  death  those 
who  infringe  or  disobey  the  regulation.  Women  are  considered 
by  the  Polynesians  as  impure,  and  are  not  allowed  to  eat  with  the 
men,  or  to  enter  the  morais,  or  temples  of  the  gods. 

The  American  and  English  missionaries  have  effected,  during 
the  present  century,  a  remarkable  change  upon  the  people  of 
Polynesia  ;  and,  in  many  instances,  they  have  obtained  a  predomi- 
nant influence.     By  their  exertions  numerous  churches  have  been 


596  OCEANICA. 

built,  which  the  inhabitants  frequent,  decently  dressed,  and  with  a 
serious  and  reverential  air. 

As  soon  as  Christianity  was  established,  schools  were  set  on 
foot,  and  the  natives  applied  themselves  with  much  ardour  to  the 
acquisition  of  learning.  After  the  first  novelty,  however,  is  over, 
many  individuals  become  careless  and  indifferent :  still,  numbers 
of  the  islanders  have  acquired  a  competent  knowledge  of  reading, 
writing,  and  arithmetic. 

Though  much  is  yet  wanting  in  the  condition  of  the  Christian 
converts,  both  as  to  knowledge  and  behaviour,  yet  it  is  undeniable 
that  the  labours  of  the  missionaries  have  been  highly  beneficial  in 
these  islands.  Through  their  influence,  the  grossest  superstitions 
have  been  abolished ;  human  victims  are  no  longer  sacrificed,  in- 
fanticide has  become  extinct,  and  the  murders  and  depredations  so 
often  perpetrated  by  the  pagan  islanders  on  European  and  Ameri- 
can sbips,  have  entirely  ceased. 

The  Ladrone,  or  Marianne  Islands,  lie  about  1800  miles 
east  of  the  Philippines,  and  were  the  first  known  in  this  region, 
having  been  discovered  by  Magellan  in  1521.  They  are  covered 
for  the  most  part  with  rich  vegetation,  and  have  been  extolled  by 
some  navigators  as  forming  a  terrestrial  paradise. 

The  original  inhabitants  have  been  nearly  exterminated  in  their 
war  with  the  Spaniards:  the  few  that  remain  can  hardly  be  dis- 
tinguished from  their  conquerors.  Though  these  people  were  de- 
scribed by  their  first  discoverers  as  a  race  of  thieves,  vet  they  were 
more  civilized  than  any  of  the  South  Sea  Islanders.  They  built 
spacious  temples,  composed  of  pillars,  and  surmounted  by  a  circu- 
lar dome ;  their  women  were  treated  with  kindness  and  humanity, 
and  a  rude  species  of  money  was  coined,  and  used  by  them.  Agri- 
gan,  on  the  island  of  Guahan,  is  the  capital  of  the  group.  It  con- 
tains 3000  inhabitants,  mostly  Spaniards,  with  some  Indians  from 
Peru. 

The  Caroline  Islands  lie  immediately  north  of  the  equator. 
They  extend  from  east  to  west  upwards  of  30  degrees  of  longi- 
tude, and  are  situated  in  a  most  tempestuous  ocean,  exposed  to 
frequent  hurricanes,  some  of  which  often  sweep  away  the  entire 
produce  of  an  island  ;  yet  the  people  are  still  more  at  home  on  the 
waves  than  even  the  other  South  Sea  Islanders,  and  are  distin- 
guished by  their  skill  in  navigation.  They  steer  their  course  at 
night  by  the  stars,  and  use  a  rude  sort  of  compass.  The  greater 
part  of  the  Caroline  islands  are  low,  and  of  coral  formation.  They 
comprise  several  groups  of  islands,  of  which  the  Pelew  and  Egoy 
are  the  best  known. 

On  the  Pelew  Islands,  the  ship  Antelope  was  wrecked,  in  1783, 


POLYNESIA.  597 

when  Captain  Wilson  and  his  crew  were  treated  by  the  inhabit- 
ants with  the  most  generous  kindness.  Abba  Thulle,  the  king, 
on  the  departure  of  the  captain,  sent  with  him  his  son,  Prince  Le 
Boo,  who  delighted  the  society  of  London  by  the  amiable  simplicity 
of  his  manners;  but,  unfortunately,. he  was  soon  seized  with  the 
small-pox  and  died.  Captain  Wilson  described  the  Pelew  Island- 
ers in  the  most  pleasing  colours ;  but  subsequent  navigators  have 
represented  them  as  displaying  all  the  bad  qualities  incident  to 
savage  life. 

Central  Archipelago. — This  name  has  been  applied  from 
their  central  situation  to  a  number  of  detached  groups,  extending 
to  a  great  distance,  chiefly  to  the  south-east  from  the  Caroline 
Islands,  consisting  mostly  of  Mitchell's,  Ellice's,  and  De  Peyster's 
groups,  the  Taswell's  Islands,  also  Gilbert's  Archipelago,  Scarbo- 
rough's Range,  and  the  Mulgrave  Islands.  The  natives  are  gene- 
rally described  as  friendly,  courteous,  and  amiable,  free  from  the 
thievish  propensities  and  dissolute  conduct  which  are  common  in 
many  of  the  other  islands. 

The  Sandwich  Islands  have  been  long  known  as  a  place 
of  resort  for  American  whaling-ships,  and  have  also,  for  some 
time  past,  excited  general  interest  on  account  of  the  important 
change  effected  in  the  manners,  customs,  and  character  of  the 
people.  These  islands  are  ten  in  number,  of  which  eight  only  are 
inhabited.  They  form,  as  it  were,  a  solitary  cluster,  far  to  the 
north  and  east  of  the  principal  ranges  of  this  region. 

Hawaii,  or  Owhyhee,  the  largest  of  the  group,  and  also  the 
largest  island  in  Polynesia,  occupies  4500  square  miles  of  the  7000 
constituting  the  area  of  the  whole.  Some  of  the  mountains  rise  to 
an  Alpine  height,  and  have  their  summits  wrapt  in  perpetual  snow: 
those  of  Mouna  Roah  and  Mouna  Kaah  are  the  most  elevated  of 
any  insular  mountains  in  the  world,  both  being  about  16,000  feet 
in  height.  There  are  several  volcanoes  in  this  group,  and  some 
of  them  are  in  constant  activity.  The  soil  is  exceedingly  fertile, 
and  yields  abundantly  the  bread-fruit,  sugar-cane,  cocoa-nut,  sweet 
potatoes,  &c. 

In  the  year  1819,  the  inhabitants  of  these  islands  renounced 
idolatry,  and  burned  their  idols :  this  circumstance  induced  the 
missionary  societies  in  the  United  States  to  send  out  ministers  of 
the  gospel  to  impart  to  them  the  religion  and  arts  of  civilization. 
A  large  proportion  of  the  population  has  been  instructed  by  them 
in  reading,  writing,  and  arithmetic :  churches  have  been  erected ; 
a  press  has  been  for  some  time  in  operation,  at  which  school-books, 
the  scriptures,  newspapers  and  periodicals  are  printed  in  the  lan- 
guage of  the  country  ;  and  many  useful  arts  have  been  introduced. 


598  OCEANIC  A. 

The  town  of  Honolulu,  in  the  island  of  Oahu,  contains  about  5000 
inhabitants,  of  which  nearly  100  are  Americans  and  English. 
Great  commercial  activity  prevails  here ;  many  European  and 
American  ships  are  always  in  the  port :  a  considerable  number  of 
small  vessels  also  belong  to  the  natives.  Sandal-wood  is  the  most 
important  native  article  of  trade. 

The  Mendana  Archipelago  consists  of  two  groups,  the 
Marquesas  and  Washington  islands.  The  first  were  discovered 
in  1596  by  the  Spanish  navigator  Alvaro  Mendana,  and  after 
being  long  forgotten  were  re-discovered  by  Cook.  The  more 
northerly  group  was  first  visited  in  1791,  by  Captain  Ingraham, 
of  Boston,  and  called  by  him  the  Washington  Islands. 

They  are  all  mountainous,  fertile,  and  well  watered.  The 
people  of  this  group  are  among  the  most  finely-formed  of  any 
known  race ;  their  complexion  is  but  little  darker  than  that  of 
southern  Europeans,  but  is  visible  only  in  the  youths,  for  the  tat- 
tooing practised  all  over  the  Pacific  Ocean  is  carried  to  such  a 
pitch,  that  the  skin  of  an  adult  becomes  the  mere  canvass  of  a 
picture.  The  operation  begins  at  12  or  13  years  of  age,  but  it  is 
not  until  30  or  35  that  the  person  is  entirely  covered. 

The  Society  and  Georgian  Islands  are  situated  about  2500 
miles  nearly  due  south  from  the  Sandwich  group,  and  at  about 
equal  distances  from  South  America  and  Australia.  They  are 
among  the  most  fertile  and  beautiful  islands  in  Polynesia,  and  are 
generally  described  under  the  name  of  the  Society  Islands :  they 
are,  however,  geographically,  as  well  as  politically,  distinct ;  being 
governed  by  different  rulers.  The  inhabitants  were  the  first  con- 
verts to  Christianity  in  this  quarter  of  the  globe.  They  are  now 
as  much  distinguished  by  their  regard  for  religion  and  morality, 
as  they  were  once  for  idolatry  and  licentiousness,  and  are  fast 
advancing  in  learning,  knowledge,  and  the  arts. 

Tahiti,  or  Otaheite,  the  largest  of  the  Georgian  group,  and  the 
residence  of  the  sovereign,  is  about  108  miles  in  circuit.  The 
interior  rises  into  high  mountains,  whose  sides  are  clothed  with 
trees  and  verdure  almost  to  the  summit.  Eimeo,  the  next  in  size 
to  Tahiti,  is  chiefly  distinguished  as  being  still  the  centre  of  that 
European  and  Christian  civilization  which  originated  there.  It  con- 
tains the  South  Sea  Academy,  a  printing-office,  and  a  cotton-factory. 

Raiatea,  the  largest  of  the  Society  islands,  is  about  half  the  di- 
mensions of  Tahiti.  It  is  governed  by  a  prince  who  has  authority 
over  some  of  the  adjacent  islands. 

King  George's  and  the  Prince  of  Wales'  Islands,  are 
small  groups,  situated  about  300  or  400  miles  north-east  from 


POLYNESIA, 


Tacca  Pinnatifida.  Dracaena  Terminalis. 

The  root  of  the  Tacca  Pinnatifida  yields  a  nutritious  substance,  very  similar  to  the  arrow- 
root of  the  West  Indies.  When  sufficiently  grown,  the  root  is  beaten  to  a  pulp,  and  subjected 
to  repeated  washings;  it  is  then  dried  in  the  sun,  and  is  fit  for  use. 

The  Dracaena  Terminalis,  or  Ti  Root,  is  sweet  and  palatable  when  baked  ;  and  a  kind  of 
beer  is  produced  from  it  by  fermentation.  Great  quantities  of  this  root  are  used  in  making  av 
intoxicating  liquor,  called  ava,  that  the  natives  often  drink  to  excess,  and  under  the  influence 
of  which  they  frequently  murder  ea«;h  other  in  the  frays  produced  by  their  dissipation. 


Sandwich  Islander  with  a  Mask. 


Natives  of  the  Friendly  Isles. 


813 


OCEANICA. 


Distant  view  of  the  Island  of  Tahiti,  or  Otaheite. 


Tahitian  Dance. 
Sn  Tahiti,  dancing  was  one  of  the  principal  amusements  of  the  people,  and  was  performed  on 
all  occasions  of  pleasure,  worship,  state  or  ceremonious  reception.  The  dances  of  the  two  first 
descriptions  were  often  very  exceptionable  ;  the  others  were  generally  slow  and  stately,  with 
graceful  and  sometimes  fantastic  movements.  The  missionaries  have  discouraged  the  practice 
uf  dancing,  on  account  of  its  close  connexion  with  previous  idolatrous  and  licentious  habits. 


Sandwich  Islanders  destroying  an  Idol. 


POLYNESIA.  599 

Tahiti,  and  inhabited  by  a  race  similar  in  language  and  habits, 
but  inferior  in  condition,  to  the  people  of  that  island. 

The  Pearl,  Paumotu,  Low  Islands,  and  Dangerous  Ar- 
chipelago, are  the  several  names  given  to  an  almost  numberless 
range  of  islets  extending  east  and  south-east  of  the  Georgian  isles. 
They  are  thinly  peopled  and  but  little  known.  The  Gambier 
islands,  five  in  number,  are  the  most  southern  of  this  group. 

The  Palliser  Islands  lie  north-east  from  Tahiti.  The  prin- 
cipal of  this  group  is  Anaa,  or  Chain  island  ;  the  inhabitants  were 
once  particulary  noted  for  their  vicious  propensities.  Hervey's, 
or  Cook's  Islands,  which  extend  nearly  west  from  the  Georgian 
group,  are  deficient  in  water,  yet  they  are  tolerably  well  peopled 
and  cultivated.  The  Austral  Islands,  situated  at  from  400  to 
600  miles  south  from  Tahiti,  are  all  small  and  scattered  far  apart 
from  each  other. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  three  foregoing  groups  are  similar  in 
habits  and  language  to  those  of  the  Georgian  and  Society  islands. 
They  were,  some  time  since,  rigid  idolaters,  and  grossly  ignorant 
and  superstitious ;  but  they  have  been  all,  more  or  less,  converted 
to  Christianity.  In  some  of  the  islands  the  entire  population  has 
been  baptized ;  and  in  nearly  all  of  them  churches  and  schools 
have  been  established.  In  the  Austral  group,  the  change  has  been 
effected  by  native  Christian  teachers,  from  Tahiti. 

The  Friendly  Islands  are  an  extensive  range,  150  in  num- 
ber, and  comprise  the  groups  of  the  Navigator's,  Feejee,  Tonga, 
and  Habaai  islands.  The  character  of  the  natives  has  been  drawn 
in  highly  flattering  colours ;  and  the  name  given  to  them  by  Cap- 
tain Cook  expresses  his  opinion  of  their  disposition.  Subsequent 
visiters  have  represented  them  much  less  favourably :  the  mission- 
ary cause,  however,  in  some  of  these  islands,  has  met  with  flattering 
success.  In  the  Tonga  and  Habaai  groups,  more  than  2000  chil- 
dren are  instructed  in  the  schools,  and  the  church  has  upwards 
of  1100  native  members.  In  the  Navigator's  islands,  the  gospel 
bids  fair  to  obtain  a  steadfast  footing  among  the  people. 

The  Navigator's,  or  Samoa  Islands,  eight  in  number,  are  fer- 
tile, well  watered,  and  appear  to  be  very  populous.  The  interior 
of  the  largest  of  these  islands  contains  lofty  mountains,  clothed  with 
thick  forests,  which,  with  the  wooded  valleys  at  their  base,  watered 
by  numberless  streams  and  rills,  present  a  beautiful  landscape. 

The  Feejee  Islands,  the  largest  of  the  Friendly  Archipelago, 
are  but  imperfectly  known :  the  people  are  still  pagans,  and  are 
more  ferocious,  and  of  darker  complexion,  than  those  of  any  of  the 
adjacent  islands.  This  group  is  much  visited  by  American  vessels 
for  sandal-wood. 


600  OCEANICA. 

The  Tonga  Islands,  the  most  southern  of  the  Friendly  Archi- 
pelago, are  fertile  and  populous.  The  natives  cultivate  15  different 
varieties  of  the  bread-fruit,  besides  yams  of  several  kinds,  and 
other  roots. 

Lefuga,  the  principal  of  the  Habaai  Islands,  was  long  the 
residence  of  a  chief  who  held  sway  over  the  others.  Vavaou, 
Cocoa-nut  Island,  and  Amargura,  to  the  north  of  the  Habaai  group, 
are  all  fertile  and  well  inhabited. 

Pitcairn's  Island,  which  lies  1200  miles  south-east  from 
Tahiti,  has  attracted  a  remarkable  degree  of  interest,  in  conse- 
quence of  having  been  the  retreat  of  the  mutineers  of  the  ship 
Bounty  ;  and  also  from  the  pleasing  feelings  excited  on  the  disco- 
very of  their  virtuous  and  amiable  posterity. 

The  island  was  visited,  for  the  first  time  after  its  settlement,  in 
1810,  being  twenty  years  subsequent  to  that  event,  by  Captain  Fol- 
ger,  an  American,  who  found  but  one  of  the  mutineers  alive :  this 
individual,  John  Adams,  having  been  led  to  habits  of  serious  re- 
flection, was  induced  to  devote  himself  to  the  education  of  the 
women  and  children,  which  he  performed  with  such  good  effect, 
that  the  little  community  grew  up  to  be,  perhaps,  the  most  orderly 
and  amiable  in  existence. 

Adams  died  in  1829.  Shortly  afterwards,  the  islanders,  in 
consequence,  it  is  said,  of  a  scanty  supply  of  water,  emigrated  to 
Tahiti,  but  being  disappointed  in  their  views,  soon  returned  to  their 
solitary,  but  interesting  island.  Sometime  subsequent,  a  competent 
and  worthy  person  was  sent  out  by  the  British  government  to  act  as 
a  teacher  and  magistrate ;  but  he  was  unable  to  prevent  several  dis- 
solute sailors  from  settling  on  the  island,  whose  wicked  practices 
have,  it  is  feared,  already  corrupted  the  minds  of  the  simple  inhabit- 
ants. The  last  account  represented  the  population  of  Pitcairn's 
Island  to  be  about  80  in  number. 

Easter  Island,  the  most  eastern  of  the  Polynesian  range,  is 
about  20  miles  in  circuit.  The  natives  are  estimated  to  amount 
to  1200.  This  island  was  formerly  celebrated  for  its  gigantic 
busts,  rudely  carved  out  of  huge  blocks  of  stone ;  but  they  have 
been  destroyed. 

The  Archipelagoes  of  Anson  and  Magellan  are  situated  in 
the  north-western  part  of  Polynesia.  They  comprise  a  number 
of  small  groups  and  islands,  situated  for  the  most  part  distant  from 
each  other.  On  the  Bonin  group,  there  are  some  American  and 
English  sailors  settled,  who  took  wives  with  them,  a  few  years 
since,  from  the  Sandwich  islands :  here  they  have  built  huts,  and 
cultivate  some  small  patches  of  ground,  carry  on  fishing,  &c. 


STATISTICAL  TABLES. 


EXTENT  AND  POPULATION 

OP  THE  DIFFERENT 

COUNTRIES   IN   THE   WORLD. 


NORTH  AMERICA  :— 

Russian  America 

Greenland 

British  America 

United  States 

Texas 

Mexico 

Guatimala 

West  Indies 

SOUTH  AMERICA:— 

New  Grenada 

Venezuela 

Equador 

Guiana 

North  Peru 

South  Peru 

Bolivia 

Chili 

Brazil 

Buenos  Ayres 

Paraguay 

Uruguay  

Patagonia 

EUROPE  :— 
Sweden  and  Norway 

Russia  and  Poland 

Denmark 

Holland 

Belgium 

Great  Britain  and  Ireland 

France 

Spain 

Portugal 

Prussia    

Austria 

German  States 

Switzerland 

Italy  

Ionian  Islands 

Greece 

Turkey 

51 


Area  in  square 
miles. 

Total  Population. 

Population  to 
a  square  mile 

500,000 

50,000 

1  in  10 

840,000 

20,000 

lin42 

2,310,000 

1,360,000 

lin  U 

2,300,000 

17,000,000 

7* 

.200,000 

250,000 

H 

1,500,000 

8,000,000 

5 

200,000 

2,000,000 

10 

100,000 

2,970,000 

29 

7,950,000 

31,650,000 

4 
4 

450,000 

1,687,000 

420,000 

900,000 

2 

280,000 

•  600.000 

2 

160,000 

182,000 

1 

300,000 

700,000 

2 

130,000 

800,000 

6 

450,000 

1,716,000 

4 

170,000 

1,500,000 

8£ 

3,390,000 

5,000,000 

H 

750,000 

700,000 

1 

88,000 

150,000 

1* 

92,000 

75,000 

1 

370,000 

30,000 

lin  12 

7,050,000 

14,040,000 

2 

297,000 

4,000,000 

13 

1,755,000 

49,000,000 

28 

22,000 

2,100,000 

95 

11,000 

2,800,000 

254 

13,000 

4,200  000 

323 

121,000 

25,000,000 

206 

205,000 

32,500,000 

158 

183,000 

12,000,000 

65 

59,000 

3,600,000 

62 

107,000 

14,000,000 

130 

259,000 

33,000,000 

127 

102,000 

15,000,000 

147 

15,000 

2,000,000 

133 

122,000 

21,000,000 

172 

1,000 

190,000 

190 

21,000 

610,000 

28 

207,000 

9,000,000 

43 

3,500,000 

230,000,000  | 

66 

817 


602  STATISTICAL   TABLES. 

Extent  and  Population  of  different  Countries — continued. 


ASIA:— 

Asiatic  Russia 

Independent  Tartary 

Turkey 

Syria  and  Palestine 

Arabia 

Persia 

Afghanistan 

Beloochistan 

Hindoostan 

Eastern  or  Chin-India 

Chinese  Empire 

Japan   

AFRICA:— 

Barbary 

Egypt 

Nubia 

Abyssinia 

Great  Desert 

Soudan 

Bergoo,  Darfur,  &c 

Senegambia   

Upper  Guinea 

Lower  Guinea   

Southern  Africa 

Eastern  Africa 

Ethiopia 

African  Islands 

OCEANICA  :— 

Malaysia. 

Sumatra    

Java 

Borneo 

Philippine  Islands 

Celebes 

Spice  Islands,  Sooloo  Islands,  &c 
Timor,  Floris,  Sumbawa,  &c . . . 


Australasia. 
Australia,  including  Botany  Bay, 
the  Swan  River  Colony,  Albany, 

&c 

Tasmania,  or  Van  Diemen's  Land 
New  Zealand 


■:[ 


New  Guinea,  New  Britain,  &c. . .  ) 
New  Hebrides  and  New  Caledonia  £ 


Area  in  square 


5,300,000 
690,000 
370,000 
60,000 
990,000 
470,000 
340,000 
200,000 

1,200,000 
920,000 

5,200,000 
260,000 


16,000,000 


570,000 

180,000 

320,000 

280,000 

2,600,000 

1,200,000 

540,000 

350,000 

280,000 

260,000 

480,000 

600,000 

3,130,000 

210,000 


11,000,000 


156,000 
60,000 
400,000 
105,000 
70,000 
31,000 
28,000 


850,000 


3,000,000 

28,000 
95,000 

377,000 
3,500,000 


Total  Population.    Population  to 
a  square  mile. 


10,000,000 

6,500,000 

8,000,000 

2,000,000 

8,000,000 

8,000,000 

6,000,000 

1,500,000 

140,000,000 

20,000,000 

226,000,000 

14,000,000 


450,000,000 


10,000,000 

2,500,000 

500,000 

3,000,000 

300,000 

10,000,000 
1,200,000 
7,000,000 
6,500,000 
5,500,000 
1,500,000 
3,000,000 
3,000,000 
3,000,000 


57,000,000 


4,000,000 
4,000,000 
3,000,000 
2,500,000 
1,000,000 
450,000 
500,000 


15,450,000 


615,000 

35,000 
500,000 
500,000 
250,000 


1,900,000 


2 

9 
21 
33 

8 
17 
17 

7 

116 

21 

43 

54 


28 


17 

13 

Is 

10 

1  in  8 

8 

2 

20 

23 

21 

3 

5 

1 

14 


25 
66 
7 
23 
14 
14 
18 


18 


1  in  5 


1  in  2 
818 


STATISTICAL   TABLES. 


603 


Extent  and  Population  of  different  countries — continued. 


Polynesia. 

Sandwich  Islands 

Ladrone  Islands 

Caroline  Islands 

Central  Archipelago 

Washington  and  Marquesas  Islands 

Society  and  Georgian  Islands 

Cook's,  Austral,  Paumotu,  Gambier 

Islands,  &c 

Navigator's  Islands 

Vavou,  Habaii,  and  Tonga  Islands.  ■ 

Fejee  Islands 

The  remaining  groups  and  single  Is 


7,000 


Y .  143,000 


150,000 


_  .  ,  _      ...  Population  to 

Total  Population,    ^wre  mile 


150,000 
10,000 
80,000 
30,000 
15,000 
20,000 

27,000 

160,000 

8,000 

100,000 

40,000 


650,000 


TOTAL  POPULATION  OF  THE  WORLD. 


North  America. 
South  America  . 

Europe   

Asia 

Africa 

Oceanica 


7,950,000 
7,050,000 
3,500,000 
16,000,000 
11,000,000 
4,500,000 


50,000,000 


31,650,000 
14,040,000 
230,000,000 
450,000,000 
57,000,000 
18,000,000 


21 


}..A 


800,690,000 


4 
2 
66 
28 
5 
4 


16 


STATISTICS  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


The  following  table  shows  the  date  of  the  settlement  of  the  different  States  ; 
the  towns  first  settled;  and  the  nation  by  whom  the  settlement  was  made. 


States. 

Date. 

Towns. 

NaUon. 

1565 
1607 
1614 
1620 
1623 
1621 
1627 
1630 
1633 
1634 
1636 
1650 
1670 
1670 
1682 
1683 
1685 
16110 
1699 
1702 
1716 
1725 
173:! 
1763 
1756 
1775 
1788 

Spanish. 

English. 

Dutch. 

English. 

English. 

Danes. 

Swedes  and  Finns. 

English. 

English. 

English. 

English. 

English. 

English. 

French. 

English. 

French. 

French. 

French. 

French. 

French. 

French. 

English. 

English. 

French. 

English. 

York 

C04  STATISTICAL   TABLES. 

SUMMARY  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL 
RELIGIOUS  DENOMINATIONS  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


Denominations. 


Baptists 

"       Freewill    

"       Seventh-Day 

"       Six-Principle   

Methodists 

"         Protestants 

Presbyterians 

"  Cumberland 

'*  Associate 

"  Reformed 

"  Associate  Reformed 

Congregationalists 

Catholics 

Episcopalians 

Universalists 

Lutherans 

Dutch  Reformed 

Christians 

German  Reformed 

Unitarians 

"         Mennonites 

Friends 

Tunkers 

Jews 

Moravians,  or  United  Brethren. . 

Mormons 

Shakers 

New  Jerusalem  Church 


Ministers. 

Churches 
or  Con- 

gregations. 

4,239 

6,319 

612 

753 

46 

42 

10 

16 

2,764 

400 

2,225 

2,807 

450 

500 

87 

183 

20 

40 

116 

214 

1,150 

1,300 

389 

443 

849 

850 

317 

653 

267 

750 

192 

197 

800 

1,000 

180 

600 

174 

200 

200 

500 

40 

40 

33 

24 

45 

15 

33 

27 

452,000-) 
33,876  I 
4,503  f 
2,117j 
650,103  > 
50,000  \ 
274,084" 
50,000 
16,000 
3,000 
12,000  J 
160,000 


62,226 

22,515 

150,000 

30,000 

30,000 

3,000 

5,745 

20,000 

6,000 


Population. 


4,300,000 
3,000,000 

2,175,000 


1,400,000 

1,000,000 

800,000 

600,000 

540,000 

450,000 

300,000 

450,000 

180,000 

120,000 

100,000 

30,000 

15,000 

12,000 

20,000 

6,000 

5,000 


IMPORTS  AND  EXPORTS  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


1791 
1795 
1800 
1805 
1810 
1815 
1820 
1825 
1830 
1835 
1836 
1837 
1838 
1839 
1840 


Value  of  Imports. 


52,000,000 

69,756,268 

91,252,768 

120,000,000 

85,400,000 

113,041,274 

74,450,000 

96,340,075 

70,876,920 

149,895,742 

189,980,035 

140,989,217 

113,717,404 

162,092,132 

104,805,891 


Value  of  Exports. 


19,012,041 

47,989,472 

70,971,780 

95,566,021 

66,757,974 

52,557,753 

69,691,669 

99,535,388 

73,849,508 

121,693,577 

128,663,040 

117,419,376 

108,486,616 

121,028,416 

131,571,950 


Excess  of  Imports  ovt 
Exports. 


32,987,959 
21,766,796 
280,988 
24,433,975 
18,642,026 
60,483,521 
4,758,331 


28,202,165 
61,316,995 
23,560,801 
5,230,788 
41,063,716 


Excess  of  Exports 
over  Imports. 


3,195,313 

2,972,588 


26,766,059 


In  the  year  1811  the  exports  first  exceeded  the  imports.  In  1836  the  imports  were  highest 
(1)189,080,035).  In  1840  the  exports  exceeded  the  imports  moro  than  in  any  former  year,  and 
those  of  18'J5  were  the  next  highest. 


STATISTICAL    TABLES. 


605 


PRINCIPAL  CANALS, 
FINISHED  OR  IN  PROGRESS,  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


Cumberland  and  Oxford  (Me.) 

Middlesex  (Mass.) 

Blackstone  (Mass.  and  R.  I.)  - 
Farmington,  Hampden,  &c.  - 
Delaware,  Hudson,  Lackawaxen 

Erie  (N.  Y.) 

Champlain  (N.  Y.) 

Black  River  (N.  Y.) 

Oswego  (N.  Y.) 

Chenango  (N.  Y.) 

Seneca  (N.  Y.) 

Cayuga  (N.  Y.) 

Chemung  (N.  Y.) 

Morris  (N.J.) 

Delaware  and  Raritan  (N.  J.)  - 

Delaware  Canal  (Pa.) 

Lehigh  (Pa.) 

Schuylkill  (Pa.) 

Little  Schuylkill  (Pa.) 

Union  (Pa.) 

Pennsylvania 

Susquehanna  Division  (Pa.)  -  - 

West  Branch  (Pa.) 

North  Branch  (Pa.) 

Beaver  Division  (Pa.) 

French  Creek  Division  (Pa.)  - 
Pennsylvania  and  Ohio  Canal  - 
Sandy  and  Beaver  (Pa.  and  O.) 
Chesapeake  and  Delaware  -  - 
Chesapeake  and  Ohio  (Md.)  - 
Dismal  Swamp  (Va.  and  N.  C.) 

James  River  (Va.) 

Santee(S.  C.) 

Savannah  and  Alatamaha  (Ga.) 

Brunswick  (Ga.) 

Muscle  Shoals  (Aa.) 

La  Fourche  (La.) 

Miami  (O.) 

Ohio  and  Erie  (O.)  ------ 

Wabash  and  Erie  (Ind.  and  O.) 

White  Water  (Ind.) 

Illinois  and  Chicago  (II.)    -  -  - 


Places  connected. 


Portland  and  Sebago  Pond 

Boston  and  Lowell 

Providence  and  Worcester 

New  Haven  and  Northampton  (Mas.) 
Hudson  River  and  Honesdale  (Pa.)  - 

Albany  and  Buffalo 

Lake  Champlain  and  Hudson  River 

Rome  and  Black  River 

Syracuse  and  Oswego 

Binghamton  and  Utica 

Seneca  Lake  and  Erie  Canal  -  -  -  - 

Geneva  and  Montezuma 

Elmira  and  Seneca  Lake 

Easton  (Pa.)  and  Jersey  City  -  -  -  - 
New  Brunswick  and  Bordentown   - 

Bristol  and  Easton 

Easton  and  White's  Haven 

Philadelphia  and  Port  Carbon    -  -  - 

Port  Clinton  and  Tamaqua 

Reading  and  Middletown 

Columbia  and  Pittsburg 

Juniata  and  Northumberland  -  -  -  - 
Northumberland  and  Dunstown  -  - 
Northumberland  and  Lackawanna  - 
Beaver  and  Mercer  County  -  -  - 

Franklin  and  Erie 

Beaver  River  and  Akron  -  -  -  - 

Beaver  and  Bolivar 

Delaware  and  Elk  Rivers  -  -  -  - 
Georgetown  and  Cumberland  -  - 
Portsmouth  and  New  Lebanon  - 
Richmond  and  Lynchburg   -  -  - 
Santee  and  Cooper's  River  -  -  - 
Savannah  and  Alatamaha  River  -  - 
Brunswick  and  Alatamaha  River  - 
Round  the  Muscle  Shoals    -  -  -  - 
New  Orleans  and  La  Fourche  River 
Cincinnati  and  Maumee    -  -  -  - 
Portsmouth  and  Cleveland  -  -  - 
La  Fayette  and  Manhattan  -  -  - 


Illinois  River  and  Lake  Michigan  - 


20J 

27 

4J> 

78 

82£ 
363 

63 

76 

38 

96 

23 

20 

23 
101 

42i 

60 

66 
108 

20 

82 
312 

39 

66 

76 

30 

46 

82 

73 

14 
186 

23 
150 

22 

60 

12 

37 

85 
265 
306 
110 

76 

96 


PRINCIPAL  RAIL-ROADS, 


FINISHED  OR  IN  PROGRESS,  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES 
Eastern  Rail-Road,  Mass.  and  N.  H.  Boston  and  Portsmouth 


Boston  and  Lowell,  Mass. 

Boston  and  Worcester,  Mass 

Providence  and  Stonington,  Con.. 
Norwich  and  Worcester,  Mas.  Con, 
Hartford  and  New  Haven,  Con... 

Utica  and  Schenectady,  N.  Y 

Troy  and  Ballston,  N.  Y 

Mohawk  and  Hudson,  N.  Y 

51* 


Albany  and  Schenectady. 


534 
25$ 

45 

17 
5J3 

■Hi 

si 

25 
16 


606  STATISTICAL    TABLES. 

Rail-Roads  of  the  United  States — continued. 


Saratoga  and  Schenectady,  N.  Y 

Utica  and  Syracuse,  N.  Y 

Auburn  and  Syracuse,  N.  Y 

Lockport  and  Niagara  Falls,  N.  Y.... 

Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls,  N.  Y 

Tonawanda,  N.  Y 

Ithaca  and  Owego,  N.  Y 

New  York  and  Erie,  N.  Y 

Jersey  City  and  Paterson,  N.  J 

Jersey  City  and  Trenton,  N.  J 

Camden  and  Amboy,  N.  J 

Philadelphia  and  Trenton,  Pa.  and  N.  J. 

Philadelphia  and  Columbia,  Pa 

Philadelphia  and  Baltimore,  Pa.  De.  Md. 

Philadelphia  and  Norristown,  Pa 

Philadelphia  and  Reading,  Pa 

Central,  Pa 

Lancaster  and  Harrisburg 

Westchester,  Pa 

Baltimore  and  Susquehanna,  Md.  Pa.. 

Williamsport  and  Elmira,  Pa 

Reading  and  Port  Clinton,  Pa 

Little  Schuylkill,  Pa 

Cumberland  Valley,  Pa 

VVrightsville  and  Gettysburg,  Pa 

New  Castle  and  French  Town,  De. .. 

Baltimore  and  Ohio,  Md 

Baltimore  and  Washington,  Md.  D.  C. 

Winchester,  Va 

Richmond  and  Potomac,  Va 

Richmond  and  Petersburg,  Va 

Petersburg  and  Roanoke,  Va.  and  N.  C. 
Portsmouth  and  Roanoke,  Va.  and  N.  C. 
Roanoke  and  Greensville,  Va.  and  N.  C. 

Raleigh  and  Gaston,  N.  C 

Wilmington  and  Raleigh,  N.  C 

South  Carolina,  S.  C 

Central,  Ga 

Monroe,  Ga 

Georgia,  Ga 

Tuscumbia  and  Decatur,  Aa 

Montgomery  and  Chattahoochee,  Aa. . 

Vicksburg,  Mi 

Jackson  and  Brandon,  Mi 

Grand  Gulf  and  Port  Gibson,  Mi 

New  Orleans  and  Nashville,  La.  Ten. 

Clinton  and  Port  Hudson,  La 

St.  Francisville  and  Woodville,  La... 

Memphis  and  La  Grange,  Ten 

Mad  River,  O 

Lexington  and  Ohio,  Ky 

Central,  Mic 

Detroit  and  Pontiac,  Mic 

Erie  and  Kalamazoo,  Mic 

Madison  and  Lafayette,  Ind 

Lavvrenceburg  and  Indianapolis,  Ind.. 


Places  connected. 


Rochester  and  Attica 


Hudson  River  and  Lake  Erie . 


Danville  and  Pottsville 


Westchester  and  Columbia  R.  Road 
Baltimore  to  Wrightsville,  Pa. . 


Port  Clinton  and  Tamaqua 

Harrisburg  and  Chambersburg. 


Completed  to  Harper's  Ferry. . . 

Winchester  and  Harper's  Ferry. 
Richmond  and  Potomac  River.. 


Petersburg  and  Blakely . . 
Portsmouth  and  Weldon. 
Hicksfbrd  and  Gaston 


Wilmington  and  Halifax. 
Charleston  and  Hamburg 
Savannah  and  Macon 

Macon  and  Forsyth 

Augusta  and  Decatur 


Montgomery  and  West  Point . 
Vicksburg  and  Jackson 


Dayton  and  Sandusky  City. 
Louisville  and  Lexington  . . 
Detroit  and  St.  Joseph's. . . . 


Toledo  and  Marshall. 


m 

50 
25 
20 
23 

47 

29 
340 

15 

58 

61 

26 

81 1 

92^ 

17 

56 

44$ 

37" 
9 

70 

74 

20 

20 

49 

42 

16* 

80" 

40 

30 

75 

21 

60 

80 

18 

86 
161 
135 
200 

25 
160 

45 

85 

54 


500 
28 
28 
50 

153 
90 

180 
30 
90 

150 
90 


STATISTICAL  TABLES. 


607 


POPULATION  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


States. 

Square  Miles. 

Population  1S30. 

Population  1840. 

Free  coloured 
1840. 

1,355 
537 

8,668 

3,238 

8,105 

730 

20,027 

21,044 

47,854 

16,919 

4,361 

62,020 

49,842 

22,732 

8,276 

2,753 

820 

1,366 

2,039 

24,368 

5,524 

7,309 

17,342 

7,165 

3,598 

1,574 

465 

707 

178 

153 

Slaves,  1840. 

35,000 

9,491 

7,800 

1,225 

4,764 

8,000 

47,000 

8,320 

46,000 

2,100 

100 

9,356 

70,000 

50,000 

33,000 

62,000 

55,000 

48,000 

51,770 

48,320 

45,000 

40,000 

44,000 

36,400 

55,000 

64,000 

55,000 

60,000 

100,000 

200,000 

399,955 

269,328 

610,408 

97,199 

297,665 

280,652 

1,918,608 

320,823 

1,348,233 

76,748 

39,834 

447,040 

1,211,405 

737,987 

581,185 

516,823 

34,730 

136,621 

309,527 

215,739 

681,904 

687,917 

937,903 

343,031 

157,455 

140,455 

30,388 

31,639 

501,793 

284,574 

737,699 

108,830 

309,978 

291,948 

2,428,921 

373,306 

1,724,033 

78,085 

43,712 

459,273 

1,236,073 

753,419 

594,398 

691,392 

54,477 

375,649 

590,424 

352,402 

829,201 

779,923 

1,519,467 

685,866 

474,807 

383,702 

97,574 

212,267 

30,943 

43,113 

0 

1 
1 

5 
17 

0 

4 

674 

64 

2,605 

4,694 

89,536 

448,987 

245,817 

327,038 

280,944 

25,717 

195,211 

253,532 

165,219 

183,059 

182,072 

3 

3 

331 

58,240 

19,935 

8 
18 

New  Hampshire. 
Massachusetts  . . 
Rhode  Island. . . 
Connecticut  .... 

New  Jersey  .... 
Pennsylvania  . .  . 

Dist.  of  Columbia 

Virginia  ....... 

North  Carolina. . 
South  Carolina. . 

Mississippi .    ... 
Ohio 

Employed  in  th 

e  naval  sen 

12,866,020 

17,062,012 
6,100 

386,069 

2,486,368 

Total, 

17,068,112 

COMPARATIVE  VIEW  OF  THE 
POPULATION  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES  IN  1830  AND  1840. 


Census  1S30.  Census  1840. 

Whites .10,532,060 14,189,575 

Free  coloured....     319,599 386,069 

Slaves 2,009,043 2,486,368 

Naval  service  .. .         5,318 6,100 


Total,        12,806,020  17,068,112 


Increase  in  ten  years. 

Whites 3,657,515  or  about  35  per  cent. 

Free  coloured     67,470       "        21 
Slaves 477,325      "        23f     " 


White  Population. 
1830. 

Free  States  and  Territories 6,865,700 

Slave  States  and  Territories 3  660  548 


1840.  Increase. 

.  9,555,922 39  per  cent 

.  4  630  653 26 


608 


STATISTICAL    TABLES. 


Comparative  mew  of  the  Population  of  the  United  States — continued. 
Free  coloured. 

1830.  1840.  Increase. 

Free  States  &c 137,322 170,704 24j  per  cent. 

Slave  States,  &c 182,270 215,365 18 


Progress  of  Population  in  the  United  States  since  the  year  1790. 


Year.  Whites. 

1790  ...  3,172,118 
1800  . . .  4,312,841 
1810...  5,802,093 


Free  coloured. 
.  59,511  . . 
-  110,072  .  • 
.   186,446  .  • 


697,697 

896,840 

1,191,364 


Year. 
1820 
1830 
1840 


Whites. 
7,861,906  .. 
10,526,248  . . 
14,195,675  . . 


Free  coloured. 
.  238,161  . . 
.  319,599  . . 
.  386,069  . . 


Slaves. 
1,538,064 
2,009,043 
2,486,368 


POPULATION  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 


Cities  and  Towns. 


New  York 

Philadelphia 
New  Orleans 

Baltimore    

Boston 

Cincinnati 

Brooklyn , 

St.  Louis , 

Washington  City 

Providence 

Pittsburg 

Troy 

Buffalo 

Portland 

New  Haven 

Hartford 

Savannah  

Wilmington,  Del . . 

Newport 

Norwich 

Middletown 

Newburyport 

Dover,  N.  H 

Canandaigua 

New  London 

Gardiner 

Bath 

Natchez 

Bridgeport 

Wilmington,  N.  C. 
Dover 


Charleston 

Portsmouth,  N.  H. 


1830. 

1840. 

Increase. 

202,589 

312,234 

109,645 

188,797 

258,832 

70,035 

50,103 

102,191 

52,088 

80,625 

101,378 

20,753 

61,392 

84,401 

23,009 

24,831 

46,382 

21,551 

12,903 

36,283 

23,380 

5,852 

24,585 

18,733 

18,827 

22,777 

3,950 

16,832 

22,042 

5,210 

12,542 

21,296 

8,756 

11,405 

19,372 

7,967 

6,321 

18,356 

12,035 

12,601 

15,218 

2,617 

10,678 

14,390 

3,712 

9,789 

12,793 

3,004 

7,303 

11,214 

3,911 

6,663 

8,367 

1,704 

8,010 

8,321 

311 

5,179 

7,239 

2,060 

6,893 

7,210 

317 

6,388 

7,161 

773 

5,449 

6,438 

989 

5,162 

5,653 

491 

4,356 

5,528 

1,172 

3,709 

5,044 

1,335 

3,773 

5,000 

1,227 

2,790 

4,826 

2,036 

2,800 

4,570 

1,770 

2,700 

4,268 

1,568 

3,416 

3,775 

359 

Decrease. 

30,289 

29,253 

1,036 

8,082 

7,884 

198 

STATISTICAL    TABLES. 
COLLEGES  IN   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


G09 


Bowdoin 

Waterville  * 

Dartmouth 

University  of  Vermont 

Middlebury 

Norwich  University 

Harvard  University 

Williams 

Amherst 

Brown  University  * 

Yale 

Washington  t 

Wesleyan  University  t 

Columbia  t 

Union 

Hamilton 

Hamilton  Lit.  and  Theol.*  . 

Geneva  t 

University  of  New  York  .  . 
College  of  New  Jersey 

Rutgers    

University  of  Pennsylvania 

Dickinson  t 

Jefferson    

Washington 

Allegheny  t 

Western  University 

Pennsylvania 

Lafayette 

Marshall    

Newark 

St.  John's 

St.  Mary's  § 

Mount  St.  Mary's  § 

Georgetown  § 

Columbian  * 

William  and  Mary  t 

Hampden-Sidney 

Washington 

University  of  Virginia 

Randolph-Macon  t 

Emory  and  Henry  t 

Rector  College  * 

University  of  N.  Carolina. 

Davidson 

Wake  Forest  * 

Charleston 

South  Carolina  College  . . . 
University  of  Georgia. . . . 

Oglethorpe 

Emory  t 

University  of  Alabama. . . 


Sto-     Volumes  it 
dents.     Libraries. 


Brunswick,  Me 

Waterville,     "    

Hanover,  N.  H 

Burlington,  Vt 

Middlebury,  " 

Norwich,       " 

Cambridge,   Mass 

Williamstown,  "     

Amherst,  "     

Providence,  R.  I 

New  Haven,  Con 

Hartford,  "   

Middletown,     "   

New  York 

Schenectady,  N.  Y 

Clinton,  "     

Hamilton,         "     

Geneva,  "     

New  York 

Princeton,  N.  J 

New  Brunswick,  N.  J. . 

Philadelphia,  Penn 

Carlisle,  " 

Canonsburg,       " 
Washington,       " 

Meadville,  "     

Pittsburg,  " 

Gettysburg,        "     . . . . 
Gaston,  " 

Mercersburg,      " 

Newark,  Del 

Annapolis,  Md 

Baltimore,      " 

Emmitsburg," 

Georgetown,  D.  C 

Washington,     "     

Williamsburg,  Va 

Prince  Ed.  Co.   "  

Lexington,  "   

Charlottesville,    "  

Boydton,  " 

Glade  Spring,     "  

Harrison  County,  Va. . 

Chapel-Hill,  N.  C 

Mecklenberg  Co.,  N.  C. 
Wake  Forest,  "  , 

Charleston,  S.  C 

Columbia,      "    

Athens,  Ga 

Midway,  " 

Oxford,     " 

Tuscaloosa,  Ala 


150 

55 

321 

109 

67 

57 

236 

128 

169 

177 

438 

78 

124 

139 

241 

92 

74 

66 

85 

263 

76 

111 

99 

147 


18,000 
6,000 

16,500 
9,200 
7,054 

51,000 

7,500 

12,500 

14,000 

27,000 

6,500 

10,300 

14,000 

13,000 

9,000 

4,600 

5,400 

11,000 
6,500 
5,000 

10,600 
4,500 


Founded 


59     3,300 


100 

59 
51 

53 
55 
27 
73 
31 

154 
25 

140 
65 
49 

243 


8,000 

500 

2,270 

1,350 

1,200 
4,000 

12,000 
3,500 

12,000 
4,200 
4,250 
8,000 
2,000 

16,000 


120     1,000 
50 


156 
86 
77 
50 
168 
116 
31 
35 
56 


9,000 

4,000 

3,000 

13,000 

11,000 


5,289 


1794 
1820 
1770 
1791 
1800 
1834 
1638 
1793 
1821 
1764 
1700 
1824 
1831 
1754 
1795 
1812 
1819 
1823 
1831 
1746 
1770 
1755 
1783 
1802 
1806 
1815 
1819 
1832 
1832 
1836 
1833 
1784 
1799 
1830 
1789 
1821 
1693 
1783 
1812 
1819 
1832 
1839 
1839 
1791 
1838 
1838 
1795 
1804 
1785 
1836 
1837 
U328 
825 


610 


STATISTICAL   TABLES. 

Colleges  in  the  United  States — continued. 


Lagrange  t 

Spring  Hill§ 

Jefferson 

Oakland 

Louisiana 

Jefferson 

St.  Charles  § 

Baton  Rouge 

Greeneville 

Washington 

University  of  Nashville .... 

East  Tennessee 

Jackson 

Transylvania 

St.  Joseph's  § 

Centre 

Augusta  t 

Cumberland 

Georgetown  * 

Bacon  

St.  Mary's  § 

University  of  Ohio 

Miami  University 

Franklin 

Western  Reserve 

Kenyon  + 

Granville  * 

Marietta 

Oberlin  Institute 

Cincinnati 

Woodward 

Indiana 

South  Hanover 

Wabash 

Indiana  Asbury  University  t 

Illinois 

Shurtleff* 

McKendree  t 

McDonough    

University  of  St.  Louis  § . . . 

St,  Mary's  § 

Marion 

Columbia 

St.  Charles  $ 

Fayette 

Michigan  University 

Marshall 

St.  Philip's  § 


Lagrange,  Ala 

Spring  Hill,"    

Washington,  Mp 

Oakland,  "    

Jackson,  La. 

Bringiers,  " 

Grand  Coteau,  La 

Baton  Rouge,     "    .... 

Greeneville,  Tenn 

Washington  Co.,  Tenn. 
Nashville,  "   . 

Knoxville,  "   . 

Near  Columbia,        "  . 

Lexington,   Ken 

Bardstown,     "     

Danville,         "     

Augusta,         "     

Princeton,       "     

Georgetown,  "     

Harrodsburg, "     

Marion  Co.     "     

Athens,       Ohio 

Oxford,  "    

New  Athens,  "    

Hudson,  "    

Gambier,        "    

Granville,       "    

Marietta,        " 

Oberlin,  "    

Cincinnati,     "    

Cincinnati,     "    

Bloomington,   Ind 

South  Hanover,  "  .... 
Crawfordsville,  "  .... 


Jacksonville,  II. .. . 
Upper  Alton,  "  . . . . 
Lebanon,  "  . . . . 
Macomb,        "  . . . . 

St.  Louis,  Mo 

Barrens,      "    

New  Palmyra,  Mo. 
Columbia,  "  . 

St.  Charles,  "  . 
Fayette,  "   . 

Ann  Arbour,  Mich . 
Marshall,  "     . 

Near  Detroit,    "     . 


140 

107 

59 

160 

37 

260 

100 

65 

41 

43 

95 

56 

100 

30 

69 

66 

75 

49 

105 

203 

40 

90 

135 

51 

63 

55 

12 

50 

70 

84 

20 

59 

120 

100 

70 

42 

60 

47 

60 

104 

43 

85 
75 
200 
62 
30 


1,000 
4,000 
1,522 

1,800 
1,000 

300 
3,000 
1,000 
8,493 
3,307 
1,250 
4,400 
7,000 
2,000 
2,500 
1,050 
1,200 
1,200 
4,000 
2,500 
4,352 
1,900 
4,200 
8,720 
3,000 
3,500 


800 
1,765 

2,000 

2,000 
1,000 


7,900 
6,400 
2,300 


3,000 


1831 
1830 
1802 
1831 
1825 
1831 

1838 
1794 
1794 
1806 
1807 
1830 
1798 
1819 
1822 
1825 
1825 
1829 
1836 
1837 
1821 
1809 
1825 
1826 
1826 
1832 
1832 
1834 
1819 

1827 
1829 
1833 
1839 
1829 
1835 
1834 
1837 
1829 
1830 
1831 
1835 
1839 

1837 

1839 


The  Colleges  marked  thus(*)  are  under  the  direction  of  the  Baptists ;  thus(t)  Episcopalians ; 
thus  (+)  Methodists ;  thus  (§)  Catholics. 

With  respect  to  the  Colleges  that  are  unmarked,  the  prevailing  religious  influence  of  those  that 
are  in  the  New  England  States  is  Congrrsalionalism :  of  the  most  of  the  others.  Prcsbytcrian- 
ism.    Norwich  University,  Vt.,  is  an  institution  recently  established  by  the  Univcrsalists. 

826 


STATISTICAL    TABLES. 
THEOLOGICAL    SCHOOLS. 


611 


Bangor  Theological  Seminary 

Thomaston  Theol.  Institute- . 

Gilmanton  Theol.  Seminary  . 

Theological  Seminary 

Divinity  School 

Theological  Institution 

Theol.  Dep.  Yale  College 

Theological  Institute  of  Conn. 

Theol.  Inst.  Episcopal  Church 

New  York  Theol.  Seminary. . 

Theol.  Seminary  of  Auburn. . 

Hamilton  Lit.  and  Theol.  Inst. 

Hartwick  Seminary 

Theol.  Sem.  Associate  Ref.  Ch. 

Theol. Sem.  Dutch  Ref.  Church 

Theol.  Seminary  Pr.  Ch.  U.  S. 

Sem.  Lutheran  Church  U.  S.. . 

German  Reformed 

West.  Theological  Seminary. 

Theological  School 

Theological  Seminary 

Episcopal  Theol.  School  of  Va. 
Union  Theological  Seminary. 
Virginia  Baptist  Seminary... 
Southern  Theol.  Seminary  . . . 

Theological  Seminary 

Furman  Theol.  Seminary  . .  ... 
Literary  and  Theol.  Seminary 
South- Western  Theol.  Sem. 

Lane  Seminary 

Theological  Dep.  Ken.  College 
Theol.  Dep.  Wes.  Reserve  Col. 

Theological  School 

Granville  Theological  Dep.. . 
Oberlin  Theological  Dep....- 
Indiana  Theol.  Seminary. . . . 
Alton  Theological  Seminary  . 
Carlinville  Theol.  Seminary. . 
Theol.  Dep.  Marion  College  . . 


Bangor,  Maine. 

Thomaston,  Maine 

Gilmanton,  N.  H.. 

Andover,  Mass. . . . 

Cambridge,  Mass. . 

Newton,  Mass.. 

New  Haven,  Conn. 

E.  Windsor,  Conn. 

New  York 

New  York 

Auburn,  New  York 

Hamilton,  N.  York 

Hartwick,  N.  York 

Newburgh,  N.York 

N.  Brunswick,  N.  J. 

Princeton,  N.  J... . 

Gettysburg,  Penn.. 

York,  Penn 

Allegheny  T.  Penn. 
Canonsburg,  Penn. 

Pittsburg,  Penn. . . 
Fairfax  Co.,  Va.. . . 
Prince  Ed.  Co.,  Va. 

Richmond,  Va 

Columbia,  S.  C 

Lexington,  S.  C  . 
High  Hills,  S.  C... 
Eaton,  Georgia.. . . 
Maryville,  Tenn.. . 
Cincinnati,  Ohio. . 

Gambier,  Ohio 

Hudson,  Ohio 

Columbus,  Ohio.. . 
Granville,  Ohio  .. . 

Oberlin,  Ohio 

S.  Hanover,  Ind.. . 
Upper  Alton,  111.. . 

Carlinville,  111 

N.  Palmyra,  Mo.    . 


Denomination. 


Cong 

Baptist  .... 

Cong 

Cong 

Cong.  Unit. 
Baptist .... 

Cong 

Cong 

Prot.  Epis.. . 
Presbyterian 
Presbyterian 
Baptis 

Lutheran  . . . 
Ass.  Ref.  Ch. 
Dutch  Ref. 
Presbyterian 
Evang.  Luth. 
G.  Ref.  Ch 
Presbyterian 
Assoc.  Ch. . 
Assoc.  Ref. 
Prot.  Epis.. 
Presbyterian 

Baptist 

Presbyterian 
Lutheran   . . 

Baptist 

Baptist 

Presbyterian 
Presbyterian 
Prot.  Epis.. . 
Presbyterian 
Lutheran    . . 

Baptist 

Presbyterian 
Presbyterian 

Baptist 

Presbyterian 
Presbyterian 


Volumes 

Com. 

1839-40. 

Library. 

tion. 

44 

7,000 

1816 

23 

500 

1837 

26 

2,200 

1835 

135 

17,500 

1808 

17 

1824 

44 

4,000 

1825 

78 

200 

1822 

29 

4,000 

1834 

74 

7,260 

1817 

129 

12,000 

1836 

71 

5,01)0 

1821 

27 

2,250 

1820 

3 

1,000 

1816 

11 

4,000 

1836 

30 

1784 

113 

7,000 

1812 

26 

7,000 

1826 

20 

1825 

31 

6,000 

1828 

1,600 

19 

1828 

32 

3,500 

1822 

20 

4,000 

1824 

67 

1,600 

1832 

18 

3,730 

1831 

10 

1,800 

1835 

30 

1,000 

10 

1834 

24 

6,000 

1821 

31 

10,300 

1829 

10 

1828 

14 

8 

500 

1832 

54 

1834 

10 

1835 

700 

1838 

Catholic  Ecclesiastical  Seminaries,  with  the  number  of  students,  as  stated  in  the  "  Catholic 
Almanac :"— Philadelphia,  12 ;  Baltimore,  10  ;  Emmitsburg,  23 ;  Frederick,  19 ;  Charleston,  2; 
near  Bardstown,  and  at  St.  Rose,  in  Washington  County,  Kentucky ;  Cincinnati,  15 ;  Vincen- 
nes,  20,  and  Perry  County,  Ohio ;  the  Barren?,  Missouri,  14. 


LAW    SCHOOLS. 


Place. 

Name. 

Profes. 

Students. 

Cambridge,  Massachusetts. 
New  Haven,  Connecticut. . 

o 
2 
3 
1 
1 
1 
3 
3 

120 
45 

23 

36 
72 
71 
25 

Law  Department,  New  York  University. 

Carlisle,  Pennsylvania  .... 
Williamsburg,  Virginia. . . . 
Charlottesville,  Virginia. . . 

Schools  for  the  study  of  law  are  much  less  frequented  than  schools  for  the  study  of  the 
other  professions.  The  first  institulion  of  this  nature,  of  much  note,  that  was  established  in  the 
United  States,  was  the  Law  School  at  Litchfield,  in  Connecticut,  which  had,  from  1798  to  1827, 
730  students ;  but  it  is  now  discontinued. 

627 


612 


STATISTICAL    TABLES. 
MEDICAL   SCHOOLS. 


Name. 

Maine  Medical  School 

New  Hampshire  Medical  School 

Vermont  Academy  of  Medicine 

Vermont  Medical  College 

Mass.  Medical  School,  Harv.  Univ.. . 
Berkshire  Med.  Inst.,  Williams  Col. 

Medical  School,  Yale  College 

Coll.  Physicians  and  Surgeons,  N.  Y. 
College  of  Phys.  and  Surg.  West.  Dist. 

Geneva  Medical  College 

Albany  Medical  College 

Medical  Uep.  Univ.,  Pennsylvania. . 

Medical  Dep.  Jefferson  College 

Medical  Dep.  Pennsylvania  College. 
Medical  Dep.  University  of  Maryland 

Washington  Medical  College 

Medical  Dep.  University  of  Virginia 

Hampden-Sidney  College 

Medical  College  of  the  State  of  S.  C. 

Medical  College  of  Georgia 

Medical  College  of  Louisiana 

Medical  College  of  Trans.  Univ 

Louisville  Medical  College 

Medical  College  of  Ohio 

Willoughby  Medical  College 

Reformed  Medical  College  of  Ohio. . 
Louisville  Medical  School 


Place. 


Brunswick  . . . 

Hanover 

Castleton 

Woodstock  . . . 

Boston 

Pittsfield 

New  Haven.. . 

New  York. .. . 

Fairfield 

Geneva  

Albany 

Philadelphia. . 
Philadelphia. . 
Philadelphia. . 
Baltimore 
Baltimore 
Charlottesville 
Richmond,  Va. 
Charleston  . . . 

Augusta 

New  Orleans  . 
Lexington. .. . 
Louisville 
Cincinnati  .. . 
Willoughby  . . 
Worthington  . 
Louisville 


Lectures 


Feb.  10th  to  18th... 
1st  or  2d  Thur.  Aug. 
2d  Thurs.  in  March. 
StiThurs.  in  March. 
1st  Wed.  in  Nov. . . 
1st  Thur.  in  Sept... 
|  six  weeks  from  3d 

(  Wed.  in  Aug 

1st  Mond.  in  Nov. . 
1st  Mond.  in  Oct.. . 

1st  Wed.  in  Oct 

IstTues.  in  Oct 

1st  Monday  in  Nov. 
1st  Monday  in  Nov. 
1st  Monday  in  Nov. 
1st  Monday  in  Nov. 
1st  Monday  in  Nov. 
1st  Monday  in  Sept. 
1st  Monday  in  Nov. 
2d  Monday  in  Nov. 
2d  Monday  in  Nov. 
1st  Monday  in  Dec. 
1st  Monday  in  Nov. 
1st  Monday  in  Nov. 
last  Monday  in  Oct. 
last  Monday  in  Oct. 
1st  Monday  in  Oct. 


Table  exhibiting  the  Seuts  of  Government,  the .  times  of  holding  the  Elec- 
tion of  Slate  Officers,  and  the  times  of  the  Meeting  of  the  Legislatures  of 
the  several  States. 


States. 


Maine 

N.  Hampshire. 

Vermont 

Massachusetts 

Rhode  Island. . 

Connecticut  . . 
New  York  .... 
New  Jersey  . . . 
Pennsylvania  . 

Delaware 

Maryland 

Virginia 

North  Carolina 
South  Carolina 
Georgia  .... 
Alabama. .. 
Mississippi 
Louisiana.  ■ 
Arkansas  . . 
Tennessee  . 
Kentucky  .. 

Ohio   

Indiana  ... 
Illinois  .... 
Missouri  .  . . 
Michigan  . . 


Augusta  .... 

Concord 

Montpelier  .. 

Boston 

I  Providence 
I  and  Newport 
Hart.&N.Hav 

Albany   

Trenton 

Harrisburg  .. 

Dover 

Annapolis . .. 
Richmond  . .. 

Raleigh 

Columbia. .. . 
Milledgeville 
Tuscaloosa  . . 

Jackson  

New  Orleans 
Little  Rock. . 
Nashville.. .. 
Frankfort  . .. 
Columbus.. .. 
Indianapolis. 
Springfield  .. 
Jefferson  City 
Detroit 


Times  of  holding  Elections. 


2d  Monday  in  Sept 

2d  Tuesday  in  March. 
1st  Tuesday  in  Sept.. . 
2d  Monday  in  Nov.. . . 
Gov.  and  Sen.  in  April, 
Rep.  in  April  and  Aug, 
1st  Monday  in  April. . 
1st  Monday  in  Nov. . . 
2d  Tuesday  in  Oct. . . . 
2d  Tuesday  in  Oct.. . . 
2d  Tuesday  in  Nov.. . . 
1st  Wednesday  in  Oct. 
4th  Thursday  in  April 
Commonly  in  August. 
2d  Monday  in  Oct. .. . 
1st  Monday  in  Oct. . . . 
1st  Monday  in  Aug. . . 
1st  Mon.&Tues.  Nov. 
1st  Monday  in  July.. . 
1st  Monday  in  Oct. .. . 
1st  Thursday  in  Aug. . 
1st  Monday  in  August 

2d  Tuesday  in  Oct 

1st  Monday  in  Aug.. . 
1st  Monday  in  Aug. . . 
1st  Monday  in  Aug.. . 
1st  Monday  in  Oct. ... 


Times  of  the  Meeting  of  the 
Legislatures. 


1st  Wednesday  in  January. 
1st  Wednesday  in  June. 
2d  Thursday  in  October. 
1st  Wednesday  in  January. 
1st  Wed.  in  May  and  in  June, 
last  Wed.  in  Oct.  and  in  Jan. 
1st  Wednesday  in  May. 
1st  Tuesday  in  January. 
4th  Tuesday  in  October. 
1st  Tuesday  in  January. 
1st  Tues.  in  Jan.  biennially. 
last  Monday  in  December. 
1st  Monday  in  December. 
2d  Monday  in  Nov.,  bienn. 
4th  Monday  in  November. 
1st  Monday  in  November. 
1st  Monday  in  November. 
1st  Monday  in  Jan.  bienn. 
1st  Monday  in  January. 
2d  Monday  in  October,  bienn. 
1st  Monday  in  Oct.,  bienn. 
1st  Monday  in  December. 
1st  Monday  in  December. 
1st  Monday  in  December. 
1st  Monday  in  Dec.  bienn. 
1st  Monday  in  Nov.  bienn. 
1st  Monday  in  November. 


THE   END. 


or  thi   r 
UNIVERSITY 


